After plowing through several vids of guys pointing at a motor and sermonizing how to do the work, it was really worth while to see him actually perform the job.
I don't have a boat yet, but I hope to by this year. I'm learning about the care and maintenance of a boat so I can do it myself. You're video was clear and instructions good. Thank you.
I bought the hose hook-up to drain the engine oil when I first saw your video back in 2016, been using it ever since, great product, so simple. Great video on changing the oil etc.
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to do my first 100 hour on my recently purchased Yamaha F150. Seems simple enough. I bought the $18.00 drain hose and the oil change kit came in yesterday so tomorrow (weather permitting) I will change the oil, filter, and lower unit lube. Saved myself a bunch of money by doing it myself. Thanks, Dave from Brunswick, Ga.
Thank you for doing this vid, I just bought a new boat with a 60hp four stroke. Was a little nervous about changing the oil because I know nothing about out boards. You took all that away with this vid. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Fill it full of 2 stroke oil like amsoil dominator, rig up a separate tank for total loss feed, now connect a VRO pump into the intake, run 1:1 cam to make it into a 2 stroke, better yet throw the 4 joke stroke off a cliff
My year 2000 F115 says on sticker to put in 4.8 quarts. I put in 4.5 to compensate for the oil making which still occurrs in year 2023. Also, I find I can drain about 1/2 cup more oil out while draining by tilting motor up, waiting 30 seconds, or so and then lowering, and repeating several times. I just make a cardboard draining "funnel" and taping securely to the motor - a little messy, but not bad. By warming up oil, the filter does leak more when it is removed, I normally stuff a pile of rags under/around the filter before unscrewing it, I use a sheet of heavy grit sandpaper to grip to unscrew, just hand tight on securing new filter.
Ok for the record you only run water through the upper connection port to flush the engine with the MOTOR OFF NOT RUNNING LIKE WE DO WITH THE MUFFS, only run the motor with the ear muffs on the lower engine not to mention to make sure most of the holes are covered up with the muffs before cranking over and running.
Such a great video. When i bought my four stroke 115 the mechanic told me always run this motor particular in a tub of water something about the seals no ear muffs but this video here save you about 250.00 in labor nice work
Great detailed video of oil change. We have same exactly set up, '03 1900 Sportsman with '03 F115 four stroke. Love the boat, here in St Pete I take it out 30 miles on nice weather. Great job again and keep good job
Thanks for the video. Suggest the oil filter doesn't quite need that much force having a rubber sealing ring especially when cold. Never run engine with water flush, I still see people doing this!! I use a flush tub get a really good engine flush as my earmuffs struggle to get enough water through motor (I have 2020 F130 Yamaha).
Hey thanks! Great Video! I just recently I bought a boat. Need to get the oil changed. Was going to take it to the marine shop in town. But I think now I can do it myself. I have a Mariner 115hp. Hope Its the same process as it was with you. Definitely got my subscription. Thanks!!!!!
Dumb question here but I done an oil change on mine yesterday and drained the old oil and realized I didn’t have the correct socket size tool to remove my old filter but went ahead and added my new oil. Is it possible to remove the old oil filter and install new with the engine full of oil already? I never fired the engine after refilling.
Yes absolutely, just check your oil level after you change the filter but before you fire it up and then again after you run it. As long as you have proper oil level you are good to go.
Alot of the kits come with 10w30. Is this ok for a lake driven 4 stroke 115 in the southeast or does it need to be 20w40. Where did you get the kit that comes with 5 quarts?
So just an FYI you don't run the motor on hose connection on the port side, that's for flushing the motor while its OFF, it provides a reverse flush where the water moves in the opposite direction from normally being in the water running the motor. .
The tilt n drain has a tip written on the package that says don't run engine before oil change as too much oil will stay in filter. You show running to warm up? Any difference?
+Paul Spencer Both methods are correct but there is a difference, it just comes down to personal preference. Once a motor sits for a while most of the oil will drain from the filter and there fore less will spill when you take the filter off. However, cold or cool oil is thicker than warm oil so it takes longer to drain from the engine block and has the potential to leave more old oil in the motor. Either method can be used, I just prefer the faster more complete drain of the motor and deal with the filter being full of oil than the cold and cleaner filter method. I simply jam a large rag up under my filter to soak up what does spill. Thanks for watching.....
Pal the top flush was never intended to be used while the motor is running.Tilt the motor up connect hose and flush works like a charm.Read the manual.
Isn't that exactly what I stated in my video? Didnt I show melted water pumps where people had run their motors using the top flush and ruined them? What are we missing here?
Hi FSL, Saltykayak here. I just purchased a 2003 115 Yamaha 4 stroke sitting on a 186 Key West Bay/Reef. It only has 126 hours on her so she is almost new. I just checked the oil and although it 'looks' clean, it only goes half way up the hatched section of the dip stick so I am going to 'assume' the previous owner didn't put a full compliment of oil in the motor. I will either be doing a complete change or topping it off. But I have a non-oil related question for you. On my maiden test run today, I was only able to get up to 4500 RPM's and top out at 30 MPH. I do NOT like WOT running and the specs for this engine are 5000-6000 RPM with max HP at 5500 RPM. Since I have a boat under 19', I was thinking that 35 mph would be cruising speed and not 25 at 4000 RPM. Your opinion would be helpful.
Mine is also a 2003, its sitting on a 2003 Key West 1900 Sportsman mine also does right at 25mph on the GPS at 4,000 so that's pretty normal. The "only 4500 RPM" would concern me more. Its hard to tell without being there but you either have the boat propped wrong or a mechanical issue. With only 126 hours on a 2003 I wouldn't be surprised if you have some clogging from stale fuel somewhere in the system like in the VST tank or injectors. Yamaha used to have that boat and motor set up listed in the performance bulletin section of their web page under owner resources but I just went and looked and its gone now. I was a good place to look for what prop they used to obtain peak operation. Good luck with your new set up!
Also, I would recommend running non ethanol fuel (sometimes referred to as REC 90) in it and add Yamaha Ring Free Plus. The darn ethanol gas will eat the fuel lines and the rubber foot at the end of the high pressure fuel pump inside the VST tank. Just the one little 8 inch fuel line that goes from the top of the VST tank to the fuel rail is $205.00. Yamaha is VERY proud of the parts in the F115.
Thanks FSL.. I am going to my Yamaha dealer here in New Smyrna tomorrow and get some Ring Free+.. and I will also begin filling the tank up with non-E10. The previous owner said he changed the VST tank parts plus got new injectors for it... I absolutely believe it has sat for too long with E-10 in it.. and I need to run it out as quick as I can.... is there an injector cleaner for Yamahas as an additive? I was salivating when looking for an upgrade and wanted a KW 19' or a 2020 but this 186 is so pristine, AND with a GPS trolling motor ready to go.. I scooped it up. But now.. the fixing begins...
Yea, I bought mine all gummed up from sitting with E-10 in it and not running right so I got a deal on it knowing I would have to do a little work. Old bad E-10 will make it not run up to its potential, it just doesn't burn well enough to make full power so that may be why you are only getting 4500 RPM at full throttle. The Ring Free Plus is not only for cleaning the carbon build up in the motor, it is also a fuel system cleaner that cleans the entire fuel system including the injectors. The normal mix rate is 1 oz per 10 gal of gas but I have seen techs take a 1 gal gas can and add 10oz of the ring free then put the fuel suction line in the 1 gal tank and run the motor until its almost gone and shut the engine down and let it sit over night with the concentrate in it to clean out a gummed up system. Not sure if I would recommend it or not, might be a little harsh for some of the rubber parts and gaskets. I would probably just start by getting or running the old fuel out and putting new fuel in with the proper ratio of ring free and see what happens.
In my dads yamaha 90 outboard like 2 times he's used 10w-40 casteroil cuz he had no choice no yamalube here in my village and we werent able to make it to other villages for oil and he didnt want to wait for oil he used caster oil 10w-40 and it didnt perform right in his engine now i helped him with it both times the oil just burned up we both did not like that oil after that started ordering yamalube now they got the oil locally
That has been an issue with some of the F series engines. Most of the time its with people who do a lot of idling or trolling. Just google Yamaha F75 making oil and a whole bunch of stuff will come back. Most times the answer is at the end of the day run it wide open for a few miles.
Thanks it was the fuel pump.When the rubber membrane tears it leaks into where the oil is and causes idling trouble and white smoke when you try to blow it out at high rpm. Thanks again
I have no idea, I have bought all my boats used and never owned one younger than 10 years old so I have never had a warranty on any of them. You might want to read your warranty documentation or check with a dealer for a clear answer.
No idea why u chaps dont just throw in some delvac 1300 mobil. $14/gal @ wmart.. all this pricey oem stuff = $$ burned for no reason 99% of the time. nice vid tho - tx..
After plowing through several vids of guys pointing at a motor and sermonizing how to do the work, it was really worth while to see him actually perform the job.
I don't have a boat yet, but I hope to by this year. I'm learning about the care and maintenance of a boat so I can do it myself. You're video was clear and instructions good. Thank you.
I bought the hose hook-up to drain the engine oil when I first saw your video back in 2016, been using it ever since, great product, so simple. Great video on changing the oil etc.
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to do my first 100 hour on my recently purchased Yamaha F150. Seems simple enough. I bought the $18.00 drain hose and the oil change kit came in yesterday so tomorrow (weather permitting) I will change the oil, filter, and lower unit lube. Saved myself a bunch of money by doing it myself. Thanks, Dave from Brunswick, Ga.
Love the cold beer that is a must on an oil change
Thank you for doing this vid, I just bought a new boat with a 60hp four stroke. Was a little nervous about changing the oil because I know nothing about out boards. You took all that away with this vid. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks you Thanks you. Thanks again take care for that tip good guy
Great video and thanks for the help! Ive got a 90hp and did not realize the flush procedure. Thanks for clearing that up!
Fill it full of 2 stroke oil like amsoil dominator, rig up a separate tank for total loss feed, now connect a VRO pump into the intake, run 1:1 cam to make it into a 2 stroke, better yet throw the 4 joke stroke off a cliff
Thanks so much for your video, make it so easy to follow your procedures. Thanks again!
My year 2000 F115 says on sticker to put in 4.8 quarts. I put in 4.5 to compensate for the oil making which still occurrs in year 2023. Also, I find I can drain about 1/2 cup more oil out while draining by tilting motor up, waiting 30 seconds, or so and then lowering, and repeating several times. I just make a cardboard draining "funnel" and taping securely to the motor - a little messy, but not bad. By warming up oil, the filter does leak more when it is removed, I normally stuff a pile of rags under/around the filter before unscrewing it, I use a sheet of heavy grit sandpaper to grip to unscrew, just hand tight on securing new filter.
Ok for the record you only run water through the upper connection port to flush the engine with the MOTOR OFF NOT RUNNING LIKE WE DO WITH THE MUFFS, only run the motor with the ear muffs on the lower engine not to mention to make sure most of the holes are covered up with the muffs before cranking over and running.
Good video. Thanks.
Best oil change video out there. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for taking the time. Now I can do my own oil change on my 115
Such a great video. When i bought my four stroke 115 the mechanic told me always run this motor particular in a tub of water something about the seals no ear muffs but this video here save you about 250.00 in labor nice work
Great detailed video of oil change. We have same exactly set up, '03 1900 Sportsman with '03 F115 four stroke. Love the boat, here in St Pete I take it out 30 miles on nice weather.
Great job again and keep good job
Thanks for the video... appreciate the PSA on recycling the plastic!
Great video just bought a Yamaha 75 and I feel somewhat intelligent now thanks for sharing
Thanks man very helpful smooth process
Thanks for the video. Suggest the oil filter doesn't quite need that much force having a rubber sealing ring especially when cold. Never run engine with water flush, I still see people doing this!! I use a flush tub get a really good engine flush as my earmuffs struggle to get enough water through motor (I have 2020 F130 Yamaha).
I agree. Snug the filter. 1/4 turn tops.
Great video brother. I have never seen a reason to run the motor if flushing water through the upper connection. I have the 90hp Yamaha.
Thanks for that great video. Tired of paying my marina extorsion prices. Tight lines from NY, Cap.
Excellent video, just ordered the tilt and drain kit, awesome video!
Hey thanks! Great Video! I just recently I bought a boat. Need to get the oil changed. Was going to take it to the marine shop in town. But I think now I can do it myself. I have a Mariner 115hp. Hope Its the same process as it was with you. Definitely got my subscription. Thanks!!!!!
Great video!
Dumb question here but I done an oil change on mine yesterday and drained the old oil and realized I didn’t have the correct socket size tool to remove my old filter but went ahead and added my new oil. Is it possible to remove the old oil filter and install new with the engine full of oil already? I never fired the engine after refilling.
Yes absolutely, just check your oil level after you change the filter but before you fire it up and then again after you run it. As long as you have proper oil level you are good to go.
Alot of the kits come with 10w30. Is this ok for a lake driven 4 stroke 115 in the southeast or does it need to be 20w40. Where did you get the kit that comes with 5 quarts?
Very good video. Thank you sir
awesome video. thanks from new zealand
Thanks, I'm changing mine this weekend....
do you have a video on how to change the filter on the fuel line on the engine.
Thanks Bud....very informative
So just an FYI you don't run the motor on hose connection on the port side, that's for flushing the motor while its OFF, it provides a reverse flush where the water moves in the opposite direction from normally being in the water running the motor. .
The tilt n drain has a tip written on the package that says don't run engine before oil change as too much oil will stay in filter. You show running to warm up? Any difference?
+Paul Spencer Both methods are correct but there is a difference, it just comes down to personal preference. Once a motor sits for a while most of the oil will drain from the filter and there fore less will spill when you take the filter off. However, cold or cool oil is thicker than warm oil so it takes longer to drain from the engine block and has the potential to leave more old oil in the motor. Either method can be used, I just prefer the faster more complete drain of the motor and deal with the filter being full of oil than the cold and cleaner filter method. I simply jam a large rag up under my filter to soak up what does spill. Thanks for watching.....
The difference is he also changed the filter, so its a moot point. If he had not replaced the filter then don't run the engine
Pal the top flush was never intended to be used while the motor is running.Tilt the motor up connect hose and flush works like a charm.Read the manual.
Isn't that exactly what I stated in my video? Didnt I show melted water pumps where people had run their motors using the top flush and ruined them? What are we missing here?
Hi FSL, Saltykayak here. I just purchased a 2003 115 Yamaha 4 stroke sitting on a 186 Key West Bay/Reef. It only has 126 hours on her so she is almost new. I just checked the oil and although it 'looks' clean, it only goes half way up the hatched section of the dip stick so I am going to 'assume' the previous owner didn't put a full compliment of oil in the motor. I will either be doing a complete change or topping it off. But I have a non-oil related question for you. On my maiden test run today, I was only able to get up to 4500 RPM's and top out at 30 MPH. I do NOT like WOT running and the specs for this engine are 5000-6000 RPM with max HP at 5500 RPM. Since I have a boat under 19', I was thinking that 35 mph would be cruising speed and not 25 at 4000 RPM. Your opinion would be helpful.
Mine is also a 2003, its sitting on a 2003 Key West 1900 Sportsman mine also does right at 25mph on the GPS at 4,000 so that's pretty normal. The "only 4500 RPM" would concern me more. Its hard to tell without being there but you either have the boat propped wrong or a mechanical issue. With only 126 hours on a 2003 I wouldn't be surprised if you have some clogging from stale fuel somewhere in the system like in the VST tank or injectors. Yamaha used to have that boat and motor set up listed in the performance bulletin section of their web page under owner resources but I just went and looked and its gone now. I was a good place to look for what prop they used to obtain peak operation. Good luck with your new set up!
Also, I would recommend running non ethanol fuel (sometimes referred to as REC 90) in it and add Yamaha Ring Free Plus. The darn ethanol gas will eat the fuel lines and the rubber foot at the end of the high pressure fuel pump inside the VST tank. Just the one little 8 inch fuel line that goes from the top of the VST tank to the fuel rail is $205.00. Yamaha is VERY proud of the parts in the F115.
Thanks FSL.. I am going to my Yamaha dealer here in New Smyrna tomorrow and get some Ring Free+.. and I will also begin filling the tank up with non-E10. The previous owner said he changed the VST tank parts plus got new injectors for it... I absolutely believe it has sat for too long with E-10 in it.. and I need to run it out as quick as I can.... is there an injector cleaner for Yamahas as an additive?
I was salivating when looking for an upgrade and wanted a KW 19' or a 2020 but this 186 is so pristine, AND with a GPS trolling motor ready to go.. I scooped it up. But now.. the fixing begins...
Yea, I bought mine all gummed up from sitting with E-10 in it and not running right so I got a deal on it knowing I would have to do a little work. Old bad E-10 will make it not run up to its potential, it just doesn't burn well enough to make full power so that may be why you are only getting 4500 RPM at full throttle. The Ring Free Plus is not only for cleaning the carbon build up in the motor, it is also a fuel system cleaner that cleans the entire fuel system including the injectors. The normal mix rate is 1 oz per 10 gal of gas but I have seen techs take a 1 gal gas can and add 10oz of the ring free then put the fuel suction line in the 1 gal tank and run the motor until its almost gone and shut the engine down and let it sit over night with the concentrate in it to clean out a gummed up system. Not sure if I would recommend it or not, might be a little harsh for some of the rubber parts and gaskets. I would probably just start by getting or running the old fuel out and putting new fuel in with the proper ratio of ring free and see what happens.
Will do.. thanks for the help...
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks 👍
I did that on my 115 4 stroke, Tilted the motor and when I pulled the plug oil came out
Thanks so much. This was great!
Good video thanks
In my dads yamaha 90 outboard like 2 times he's used 10w-40 casteroil cuz he had no choice no yamalube here in my village and we werent able to make it to other villages for oil and he didnt want to wait for oil he used caster oil 10w-40 and it didnt perform right in his engine now i helped him with it both times the oil just burned up we both did not like that oil after that started ordering yamalube now they got the oil locally
?? Do the new 200 - 250 HP Yamahas or Honda outboard require oil to be mix with. The gas ? Or have they eliminated that
I’ve noticed that also. They make a 10w-40 oil change kit for their V Star bikes but not the outboard oil change kits. Makes no sense.
Very good video
God bless
The 58 that disliked it must be anti beer people . Lol
I've heard that its possible to make this a 150 hp? Is it possible? If so how much does it cost and how do you do it.
Not that I am aware of.
Thank you...this was a big help!
Great video as always!
Great video any idea how I ended up with gas in my oil Yamaha F75 I'm in SW Fl
That has been an issue with some of the F series engines. Most of the time its with people who do a lot of idling or trolling. Just google Yamaha F75 making oil and a whole bunch of stuff will come back. Most times the answer is at the end of the day run it wide open for a few miles.
Thanks it was the fuel pump.When the rubber membrane tears it leaks into where the oil is and causes idling trouble and white smoke when you try to blow it out at high rpm. Thanks again
Thank you so much for sharing.
If I just flush it after every use can I connect the water hose on the the upper hose connector up top without it be running?
+BR SALT Yes, if you are not going to run it you can just flush the motor on the top hose fitting.
Thank you!
Very good video. Thanks!
Does changing your own oil void any warranties?
I have no idea, I have bought all my boats used and never owned one younger than 10 years old so I have never had a warranty on any of them. You might want to read your warranty documentation or check with a dealer for a clear answer.
Thanks for the fast response.
I would be carful with touching anything while under warranty
Just checked with Yamaha dealer in Pensacola, and DIY oil change does not void any warranties.
Great Tips.. thanks
Amazon too
thanx very helpful
thanks
Hobe Sound Local!!!
Check out the new oil change update th-cam.com/video/oghFiVRlSL0/w-d-xo.html
I wouldn't run it first,if you do let it sit for a wile.
Always fill your new filter with oil or your engine will run dry until it catches up. Very bad.
Sort of tough to do in this motor as the filter is mounted side ways. On vertical filters in cars and trucks I pre fill them.
It
You can flush it out with the hose port but don't run it like that
one thing you did not to right was that you need to put some oil in the oil filter
The oil filter is mounted horizontally on these motors so by the time you get it spun on it all runs out.
No idea why u chaps dont just throw in some delvac 1300 mobil. $14/gal @ wmart.. all this pricey oem stuff = $$ burned for no reason 99% of the time. nice vid tho - tx..
Good god you put that filter on way too tight
Hand tight and that's what he did.
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for the video!
Thanks