there's an easier way to tell if u have a bad rod bearing. while the engine is at an idle...just start pulling the plug wires one at a time...replacing each wire back as u go along. when u come to the cylinder with bad rod bearing...it will become much louder and very easy to hear the rod knocking. no need to remove the valve covers. this guy is very sharp and seems to know what he's doing. In fact I'm a subscriber. But in this case, there's an easier way to tell. not every technique is fool proof but in 40 years of wrenching on cars, the method l just described has always been accurate in not only knowing for sure if there's a rod knocking but also lets me know exactly which rod it is.
My Mazda 626 2.0 knocks on every cylinder if you pull the plug wire. So either it's not true for every engine, or I just made a really fucking bad purchase, cause you can't hear any knocking once you put it all back tgether.
@@shaggings I was referring to V-8's. and a motor that already has a knock. A very interesting thing u just described. If there's no knock - then your good. I've never tried it w/ a 4 cylinder. Why did u that in the first place?. Were u looking for a knock? Not sure what the problem is.
@@guidosarducci3047 I was checking the spark plugs cause im having a missfire issue, turned out 3 of my 4 plugs were wet. and I decided to check if I could hear which cylinder was having the missifre issue by pulling one wire off at time and giving the engine a slight rev. #1, sounded like it ran on 3 and once I revved it it sounded like it ran on 2 as it was causing a weird fuel cut at 2300rpm. #2, same thing as number 1. #3, sounded like it was running on 3 but stopped making a weird fuel cut at 2300rpm. #4, sounded the same as #1 and #2.
Well I must be unlucky on my old engine all of them were pretty thin and they were all a brownish color and idk what did it but my whole crank snapped and it was a mess didn’t leak a drop of oil though so that was nice
you can hear it when you revved - a lower frequency ticking. Lifter valve ticking is not as low frequency - and you can tell it's from the top of the engine. Thanks
@@ZanesGarage will a rod knock go away after it warms up I have a 93 Chevy Cheyenne and it seems like a similar noise I heard today but went away after the truck warmed up? Any input would help thank you!!
Sounds the same on my BTR2 cammed g8gt. Did a nice burnout for a road work crew. When I got home, tapping like mad. The cam lope wasnt even the same , sounded off balance, lost most of its chopchopchop sound
No, generally lifters when they go bad or there's an issue have a "tick" and not a "knock". If a rod bearing is bad you'll know about it before it causes any issues with your lifters.
Could this sound get much quieter (in fact almost gone) when as the engine warms up? I hear this clicking when driving and accelerating only, but it is gone after a few minutes. Could it be piston slapping? Is it normal? Toyota Yaris, thanks
This just happened to my 5.3, oil stopped circulating because of increased pressure, I ran it too hard. First I thought it was a low battery so I kept trying to crank it. There was just a tiny bit of metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan. I hope I can still save it.
I posted shorts on my channel of a fluttering and rattling sound in my Viper after a clutch change. The shop that performed the work claims it's engine knock....
My car got its piston replaced ... After 2 weeks of use its good as new but earlier i heard a knocking sound... But after i turned off the engine it doenst knock anymore... Is that a good thing or a bad thing?
My engine doesn’t knock when cold or at high rpm but only when warmed up and idling. Did a 10 degrees cold start today and it didn’t knock until after I drove it around. Very confusing lmao
@@ConcreteJungle95 nope, haven't rebuilt it yet. I don't want to though because I don't have a garage for that so I'm just gonna live with it for a while. I have a feeling that it might be because I redid my exhaust manifold gaskets recently, I don't feel like I might not have done the best job redoing them sense I was out on my driveway.
Well it was rebuilt by myself and I didn't take the time I should have to check clearances, proper break in etc. So I'm paying for that now but I'll get it right this time around 👍
@@ZanesGarage happened to me as well. put in my rebuilt block 3 days ago. started it up and it was fine and dandy for all 20 or so minutes. then clack-clack-clack and i'm pretty bummed. i'll be taking the oil pan out tomorrow to do some checking.
Hi, please i need your reply. I'm using a 2008 Hybrid Honda civic. There is a rattling noise when advertising slowly but when i press the gas harder the noise goes until you accelerate slowly again. Engine scanned, says NO FAULT.
I have this rattling sound in my 2010 honda accord as well, like you said when i accelerate at low speeds and not after being run for a while sometimes. It seems that when its lower on oil or needs a change its a bit worse or really bad. Cars been working great and its rare to happen but i still wonder what it is
KingJugganaut19 I don’t understand mine either and it’s a 2020 brand new knocking not even had two months yet taking it to dealership In morning but now it ticks without reving I’m scared to drive it
If it sounds like this does that mean you need a new engine ? My 6.4 hemi sounds like this loud ticking that gets faster and louder as I accelerate. Someone help me out so I don’t go and get scammed for a lot of money if I don’t need to spend a lot.
@@ZanesGarage i suspect my car has a knock of some sort cause when i rev it to 2k and above when you can hear a slight knocking as it revs but it isnt there at idle
All of those are definitely things that could cause it but in my situation I believe it was from a previous overheat & blown head gasket i had that caused it.
So does this happen when the car has low oil, or no oil? If oil is just low will this still happen? My engine/oil light has not come on, so I think I'm okay but just wondering for future reference. My oil was kind of thick on end of dipstick. Just got oil changed yesterday and mechanic warned me never do that again, lol. (I have a Nissan rogue)
short and sweet and very informative ....but not what i wanted to hear. mine is very faint at idle or when revving when there is no load. sort of like this one. most pronounced when in gear and under acceleration. even slight acceleration.
This is cool and all, but this isn't my issue Please help.... I'm at a loss for words. (1972 "3970010" nickle block 350) *There's no bottom end noises, it's stout down there and sounds like a sewing machine* * NOT A SMOKER* *NOT A DRINKER* *NOT OVERHEATING* I have a very slight "peck" that almost sounds like a lifter on my low/mild cammed 350 (probably just a * little * bigger lobe than stock) it's definitely in the top end. The peck is virtually non existent at an idle. The peck dissappear during acceleration. When accelerating, you don't hear it. You only hear it when RPM levels out at what ever speed youre going above 15mph, And it sounds a little more aggressive coming back down to idle, not really bad though. But definitely sloppy sounding I will add, when I was putting it in time before I pulled the valve cover, I noticed the ticking will get worse if it's advanced or retarded too far. .it was honestly a pain to time. It seems to want to run the best when advanced right before it gets too tight to crank over.its definitely not timed at 0, and I'm sure it's timed a bit past 2-12 degrees at idle. But it's had internal work and I don't know the engine build specs. It's an old build as well. The edelbrock carb is from the late 80s/early 90s and I'd imagine that's when the engine went in the car by the looks of things. Also adjusting the mixture screws has no effect on the tick whatsoever. Richening or leaning dosent make it worse or better. It's the same. Timing also dosdnt make it better. It only gets worse as you get it farther from where it's supposed to be. Put it this way, it's literally so faint, I thought it was a slight exhaust leak from the back of the header. It's very faint. I pulled my valve covers (this is the only car I own I didn't put the engine in myself, I have no clue on it's specs) and on the #5 exhaust side rocker stud, it has a brass acorn nut on top of it. I pulled the the valve covers to reseal valve covers. All lifters are pumping oil. They all appear to equally be pumping oil as well. Top end= lubed up good. The valves are a cunt hair too tight. I left well enough alone, at top lifting was able to roll every pushrod around, so I figured if I can turn/roll them, they aren't dangerously too tight. Just tighter than I'd like. *why is there an acorn nut on my stud? * * why isn't the tick/peck constant? * * why is it worse when you decrease in RPM and speed?* I ofcourse didn't tear into if because I currently daily drive the car, and I baby it. I just pretended I didn't see that, and resealed it and drove it to work the next day. I can't afford down time right now and have to have transportation to make money for my wellbeing and family. So please don't tell me I am stupid or that I shouldn't have done that because I didn't want to I just didn't have much choice. I hate to destroy a 010 350 but i have 6 more of them ([4] 010 350s, [1] 1969 hi/p 327, [1] 1968 built 307 ) on stands in the garage, I will change it if need be and it blows so I'm not tooooooooooo worried but definitely want to save it because they aren't exactly making anymore 010 code 350s anymore and honestly I think they are, specifically the 010, the most bullet proof, idiot proof engines ever manufactured in the world. I've seen them really put through alot without catastrophe in more ways than one. I need to change the oil but I'm just now recovering from severely seaping chrome valve covers that definitely didn't go back on. It would require a half quart every 2 or 3 days of driving it. So the oil is.......... somewhat fresh. When I resealed, I topped off the oil with about a half quart of Lucas oil to provide a little more filmy protection internally. It didn't really quiet things down, the tick just seems well lubricated now lol usually when I have a slight peck in cars I'm selling or other people's cars, Lucas and a Purolator filter with a back pressure spring does the trick and does away with it. But this one's got me stumped. I'm not sure what the purpose of putting a cap acorn nut on the stud.... no others have this including the intake stud on #5, it's just the #5 exhaust valve rocker stud. Has someone possibly stripped the threads on the stud? Has it been wound up too tight and threw a rocker arm once upon a time? Is the cam lobe worn causing the lifter to drop lower than it should? Worn lifters? (Its flat tappet w/stock style rockers) Bent pushrod? Did they not degree the cam properly when it was installed? Timing chain slop? Bent valve? What's wrong???? Who knows? Hopefully you do and can help a guy brainstorm how to tackle this unfortunate problem. It seems to have aftermarket valve spring, and it has pushrod guides too that definitely aren't stock. It also has ".16" engraved on the inside of the head so I am assuming it's had the heads decked as well. It has power, this isn't an issue. It also has great oil pressure and isn't burning oil, nor getting water in the oil. It seems otherwise very clean and healthy other than just the stud having an acorn nut on it and that very faint tick im hearing. Also has headers. Power steering deleted, AC deleted and all their bracket so we know it's not caused by any of that junk. My dad says he dosent hear any tick, but I do and I'm sure of it.. I asked my dad, he said "whaddyawant fromma engine from 1972???" And assured it wasn't a big deal but I'd like to address it before it gets worse. It's It's quite a bit of power, honestly isn't a gas Hog even with a 600cfm carb, and it's been very very dependable. It deserves to be fixed. I just hate to tear into it because otherwise it runs and drives so well. I suppose I could start by changing the oil filter but it's wishful thinking I'm afraid. I changed filters when I bought the car. Everything I've ever drained from it has been extremely clean, and looks like new. No shavings, no sludge, no milky appearance. When I had the valve train exposed, it all was incredibly clean, not a spec of sludge in or on anything. Oil journals were impressively clean. I'm honestly loosing sleep over this guys... I don't like the uncertain and I don't like driving a car with a shabby fix internally. Im about to have time to mess with it soon, any advice helps or personal experiences. I'd like to have a game Plan before I start. Something tells me I'm gonna be pulling the heads ,,replacing valves,, valve seals,, rocker studs,, Cam,, pushrods,, lifters,, timing chain and timing gears. ... just my luck :/ I reckon it might be Time for that ungodly large demonic camshaft to scare old ladies, make kids cry, and..... make the bottom end knock on heavens door after a couple years or less at the track because it's not as fresh as the top end if I do a cam kit swap lol
Nice. Liked that. I'm looking for help with this problem. Writeup below I've used on Nissan forums. I'm thinking my issue may be a failed hydraulic timing belt tensioner. Any ideas or experience you have is greatly appreciated! Hello all! This is my first Nissan Pathfinder. I have always wanted one since the late 1990s. It's a 1998 SE 3.3L, automatic transmission, 167,000 miles on it. I got it at an estate sale for $2,000. It has a loud knock or tap that happens part-time and so far it's not been resolved. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could point me to anything to check next, or describe if you had similar problems with yours. I've run the motor minimally...only to troubleshoot. Here's what it does and what I've done: 1. When it's first started, it knocks for less than 1 second and then gets entirely quiet. I hear maybe 2 knocks when it first starts. Then, when the motor is accelerated to 2000 RPMs it begins to knock and it keeps knocking until 3000ish RPMs. It increases in speed as the RPMs increase. If I let off the accelerator it stops knocking. When it's higher than 3,000 RPM it goes away. So it's in this midrange RPM the knock is present. It does this sitting still, or driving it. The rig was very sheltered it's whole life from what I can tell. It was driven lightly by an elderly lady. It's in immaculate condition, inside and out. Garaged. Paint and interior is perfect. Motor starts, idles and runs great other than the knock. Oil is full. I dropped the oil pan and checked the main and rod bearings. There was not any play. I changed them anyways. Noise persisted. There was some material in the pan's bottom, about 1/3 tablespoon (1 teaspoon) of what seemed to be fine wear material. Which I would think is normal for 167,000 miles. 2. It has a P1400 error code, for the EGR solenoid. I have not chased that yet. I don't find where this would cause a knock though. 3. The transmission fluid is 1 to 2 quarts low (based on my guess from stick reading), but the noise does not seem to be coming from the transmission, and the vehicle moves and drives fine. No slippage. What could be causing this part-time knock? Hydraulic lifters? Timing belt slap? Harmonic balancer? Cracked flexplate? The noise seems too loud to be the lifters, and doesn't do it at low RPMs like lifters usually do. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
@@ZanesGarage so I have a sound and I think it’s knocking. I posted a video of the sound and some one said it was a leak at the exhaust manifold but I replaced the gaskets and it is still there. Should I pull the valve covers to check?
Is my engine gone? It was low on oil and when I noticed it I filled it with oil, then today It started knocking from the engine really really really bad and cutting off as I drive!!! I can only drive slow, it still knocks really loud and bad and cuts off!!! What do I do!!??? 😩😥😥
@@crystalxoxox1266 okay what I said was half joking, but here’s a more serious response. If it was low on oil like you said, especially if it was VERY low on oil, it’s very possibly you caused hot spots on either the rod bearings or the crankshaft bearings due to lack of oil. Basically, the bearings are ruined and the entire engine would have to be taken out to fix it. I’d take it to a mechanic to be sure but that’s what it sounds like happened in your case. Don’t drive it, it’s going to cause more extreme damage ie. piston going through the block.
@@PerformanceBlueOverYou Yup!! I just left 3 shops and they said EXACTLY WHAT U JUST SAID! MY POOR ENGINE IS GONE! 😓😓 So I have to either buy a new engine or sell it as is! Thank u so much! Be blessed and take care!!!...
No. Worn rings dont make a sound. They just let a little oil past and is burned, causing it to smoke a little, blue smoke, and you have to add oil . Black smoke is too much gas, and white smoke is from water getting in the cylinder, burned and making steam coming out the tail pipe and quickly disappears.
Will this allow a car to charge but not run? I’ve noticed when trying to start my car after a jump, it was having a hard time and when it started it begin this loud knocking sound and then stopped running while battery was still on
Yeah in my case this is rod knock. But if you look up trends on what most people google when they have a "knock" they typically google engine knock or noise. Just trying to help out the most people I can 👍
okay so like ever since i cut my muffler off my truck. like a week or so after its starting to knock and do sum funky shii at 50mph no clue wtf it is lmao
Um mine has a loud chirp aswell but im confused about mine makes 502 lbs oil pressure cold start 72 when on gas cold barely cuz well no fuel pressure in tank due to mechanical pump and people STEALING GAS but eh roadkill keep the square body rust free junky looking jimmy/k5 fully option alive till new motor lol im not driving it i got it started so the city doesn't tow it where i live they can't say anything if it runs
Car guy wannabe: hears engine knock noise after brief push on throttle. Also car guy wannabe: is that turbo flutter? Dude thats sick! Me: (sweating) my engine is naturaly aspirated.
@@Bone89 A connecting rod connects to the crankshaft which makes a piston go up and down. They have 2 bearings as shown on the video bearings if one or both are worn or damaged it causes the engine to knock. With ticking lifters it's not as bad and you can sometimes get away with using thicker oil to quiet them down a bit.
Oh hey, finally a video about engine knocking sounds that actually INCLUDES the sound of engine knocking. You sir, are awesome
right 20th video later finally has the sound
there's an easier way to tell if u have a bad rod bearing. while the engine is at an idle...just start pulling the plug wires one at a time...replacing each wire back as u go along. when u come to the cylinder with bad rod bearing...it will become much louder and very easy to hear the rod knocking. no need to remove the valve covers. this guy is very sharp and seems to know what he's doing. In fact I'm a subscriber. But in this case, there's an easier way to tell. not every technique is fool proof but in 40 years of wrenching on cars, the method l just described has always been accurate in not only knowing for sure if there's a rod knocking but also lets me know exactly which rod it is.
That's good to know! Hopefully I don't need to trouble shoot anymore rod knocks for awhile though!
@@ZanesGarage Me too. sweet ride BTW.
My Mazda 626 2.0 knocks on every cylinder if you pull the plug wire. So either it's not true for every engine, or I just made a really fucking bad purchase, cause you can't hear any knocking once you put it all back tgether.
@@shaggings I was referring to V-8's. and a motor that already has a knock. A very interesting thing u just described. If there's no knock - then your good. I've never tried it w/ a 4 cylinder. Why did u that in the first place?. Were u looking for a knock? Not sure what the problem is.
@@guidosarducci3047 I was checking the spark plugs cause im having a missfire issue, turned out 3 of my 4 plugs were wet. and I decided to check if I could hear which cylinder was having the missifre issue by pulling one wire off at time and giving the engine a slight rev.
#1, sounded like it ran on 3 and once I revved it it sounded like it ran on 2 as it was causing a weird fuel cut at 2300rpm.
#2, same thing as number 1.
#3, sounded like it was running on 3 but stopped making a weird fuel cut at 2300rpm.
#4, sounded the same as #1 and #2.
I'm not a professional, but I have pulled down a few very old engines and have as yet never seen a bearing that bad! You _saved the whole car!_
Well I must be unlucky on my old engine all of them were pretty thin and they were all a brownish color and idk what did it but my whole crank snapped and it was a mess didn’t leak a drop of oil though so that was nice
you can hear it when you revved - a lower frequency ticking. Lifter valve ticking is not as low frequency - and you can tell it's from the top of the engine. Thanks
This is whats called a rod delete in progress.
Ahh so it's that ticking sound? It's pretty obvious, wow!! You can hear it immediately after you start up the car at the 0:20 mark. Thank you!
Damn, I knew my Crown Vic had a knock, but wasn’t sure. This video definitely helped, thanks! 🙌🏾
Glad it helped! Crown vics are sweet!
How did you fix the knock in your crown vic? I was told mine is knocking from the bottom
@@daivonedurr9878 that means a bottom end rebuild. or just let it blow and get a new engine.
@@ZanesGarage will a rod knock go away after it warms up I have a 93 Chevy Cheyenne and it seems like a similar noise I heard today but went away after the truck warmed up? Any input would help thank you!!
@@daivonedurr9878 not worth it to try to fix a 4.6 mod. Get a new engine, they're everywhere and cost nothing
Got the same thing just this week in my vortec 350... did a carb swap, springs and cam....was running mint right before she took a dirt nap bud.
Ouch yeah it's never fun when an engine let's go...maybe that's an excuse to build a 383 out of it?
Increased power threw your bottom end
Oh yeah, She sounds pristine.
Nice profile pic 👌🏻
Wow - way to isolate the sound! thanks
Sounds the same on my BTR2 cammed g8gt. Did a nice burnout for a road work crew. When I got home, tapping like mad. The cam lope wasnt even the same , sounded off balance, lost most of its chopchopchop sound
What ended up happening. I have a gp gxp
I got a motor out of a G8 and now it's making a lot of noise. Mechanic thinks it's rod bearing.
Thanks so much!!! My 289 ford is sounding just like that. I’m afraid to even drive it.😢. Should I have it role backed to the shop?
My condolences to all in this comment section 😔
The sound of my people. 👏👏👏👏👏
so a rod bearing on the bottom of the engine can cause lifter knock?
No, generally lifters when they go bad or there's an issue have a "tick" and not a "knock". If a rod bearing is bad you'll know about it before it causes any issues with your lifters.
Great video. So the solution is to go into the engine and change the rods?
Thanks bro I appreciate it I'm not entirely sure I have rod knock after all but we will see....
Could this sound get much quieter (in fact almost gone) when as the engine warms up? I hear this clicking when driving and accelerating only, but it is gone after a few minutes. Could it be piston slapping? Is it normal? Toyota Yaris, thanks
might be a valve lifter
Or a exhaust leak like mine between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head because a broken bolt
Prob piston slap especially if it goes away once warm. The piston will expand from the heat and tighten the gap stopping the slapping
Another good video thank you.
Glad I could help!
@@ZanesGarage oh my god bro the exhaust sounds way too nice I couldn't find the knock
this is how every engine ive ever owned sounded like lol thought it was normal
LMAO!
thanks a lot
what a bout if piston hits the wall of the house ??
what you call that sound ??
That's the sound of your home owners insurance going up lol good luck with it!
How was the crank on it? Did you run it?
This just happened to my 5.3, oil stopped circulating because of increased pressure, I ran it too hard. First I thought it was a low battery so I kept trying to crank it. There was just a tiny bit of metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan. I hope I can still save it.
Yeah it's never fun. I haven't messed with an ls engine yet but I know they're pretty straightforward to take apart.
Did you end up saving it?
I posted shorts on my channel of a fluttering and rattling sound in my Viper after a clutch change. The shop that performed the work claims it's engine knock....
Hi there , can you change the baring or its need a rebuild
My car got its piston replaced ... After 2 weeks of use its good as new but earlier i heard a knocking sound... But after i turned off the engine it doenst knock anymore... Is that a good thing or a bad thing?
This is from the engine pre-detonation, yes could have been small but going on for a time, check your valve rods too see if there bent. "Old Video"
My engine doesn’t knock when cold or at high rpm but only when warmed up and idling. Did a 10 degrees cold start today and it didn’t knock until after I drove it around. Very confusing lmao
Same issue here, did you find out the origin?
@@ConcreteJungle95 nope, haven't rebuilt it yet. I don't want to though because I don't have a garage for that so I'm just gonna live with it for a while. I have a feeling that it might be because I redid my exhaust manifold gaskets recently, I don't feel like I might not have done the best job redoing them sense I was out on my driveway.
@@kalemathews1899 well any update lol
@@DiamondScuff it’s had the same sound for 2 years, never changes. It’s a ford 289 so I don’t think it will stop anytime soon
i feel your pain.
Is the the atk block? I wantedto buy a short block but they seem like trash
Engine looks clean bro🤙
Thats wierd especially for recently rebuilt motor
Well it was rebuilt by myself and I didn't take the time I should have to check clearances, proper break in etc. So I'm paying for that now but I'll get it right this time around 👍
@@ZanesGarage happened to me as well. put in my rebuilt block 3 days ago. started it up and it was fine and dandy for all 20 or so minutes. then clack-clack-clack and i'm pretty bummed. i'll be taking the oil pan out tomorrow to do some checking.
is it bad if the sound goes after the car heats up i got mustang v6 2007 4.0
So does this engine need to be replaced?
Yes, in my case i was lucky enough to get away with rebuilding the engine and being able to reuse the block and heads etc.
@@ZanesGarage how do you prevent this from happening?
@@anthonyhelfert9852 keep up with oil changes, check oil regulary, and dont overrev engine alot
Hi, please i need your reply.
I'm using a 2008 Hybrid Honda civic.
There is a rattling noise when advertising slowly but when i press the gas harder the noise goes until you accelerate slowly again.
Engine scanned, says NO FAULT.
I have this rattling sound in my 2010 honda accord as well, like you said when i accelerate at low speeds and not after being run for a while sometimes. It seems that when its lower on oil or needs a change its a bit worse or really bad. Cars been working great and its rare to happen but i still wonder what it is
My shitbox knocks when it’s low on oil. (It’s a 1961 390 and my low oil light don’t work)
What does it mean if the tick is only there on acceleration but goes away during idle?
It's possible that it could be an exhaust leak that only shows up under acceleration. Hopefully it's something simple like that!
KingJugganaut19 I don’t understand mine either and it’s a 2020 brand new knocking not even had two months yet taking it to dealership In morning but now it ticks without reving I’m scared to drive it
@@deeekay9025 How ended it up ?
TT-RS he said metal was in my motor don’t know how but it was and they replaced my motor just got it back the other day actually
@@deeekay9025 spun bearing, metal shavings get in your oil, they recirculate and wear down more parts for more metal flake
Is it possible to get this rod knock at only say about 1700 to 2000 rpm? Then it disappears...It's getting worse too.
Damn, great video quality! What kind of camera? 😂
Thank you, I use a Sony a6300 for my main camera and a go pro for everything else.
I was just about to ask the same thing 😂 made me do a double take
@@ZanesGarage quick question regarding the camera - what lens do you have on it? Is it the stock lens or one you bought separately?
Why does it smoke?
Any crank damage?
If it sounds like this does that mean you need a new engine ? My 6.4 hemi sounds like this loud ticking that gets faster and louder as I accelerate. Someone help me out so I don’t go and get scammed for a lot of money if I don’t need to spend a lot.
Figured it out?
@@Realofficialdee cam and lifters my engine just got rebuilt it’s running strong now!
My 350 just started rod knocking after starting it up last night I am assuming it is from drag racing my friend last week 🙃
R u able to drive it when u have a rod knock happen?
@Marc Owens ooh ohk thanx
I’m having the same problem with my Nissan 350z but when I rev it doesn’t make the ticking sound
same thing happens to me but it goes away when i turn my music up
Nawww it's just the nature of the vq itself, It ticks I think it has something to do with its timing chain
Can the knocking be intermediate and more quiet than your engine
In my case the knock was only really noticable with higher rpm and for how quiet I'm not sure I think that changes from situation to situation.
@@ZanesGarage i suspect my car has a knock of some sort cause when i rev it to 2k and above when you can hear a slight knocking as it revs but it isnt there at idle
Ok now what causes that?? Low oil pressure or bad assembly bad crank
All of those are definitely things that could cause it but in my situation I believe it was from a previous overheat & blown head gasket i had that caused it.
So does this happen when the car has low oil, or no oil? If oil is just low will this still happen? My engine/oil light has not come on, so I think I'm okay but just wondering for future reference. My oil was kind of thick on end of dipstick. Just got oil changed yesterday and mechanic warned me never do that again, lol. (I have a Nissan rogue)
Thanks ☺️
So what if it’s a tiny little knock at idle (don’t know if it’s the rods) but it goes away the second I apply gas
That could be something like a loose rocker arm or a bad lifter. I'd definitely keep an eye on it though.
Yup same it used to go away now its way fucked up now
So I have to pull the whole motor out to fix it is what you’re saying😅
No. You can pull the oil pan and replace them from the bottom as long the crank is not damaged.
Awesome video
Uncle Rodney is knocking!!
How much does this cost to fix?
short and sweet and very informative ....but not what i wanted to hear.
mine is very faint at idle or when revving when there is no load. sort of like this one. most pronounced when in gear and under acceleration. even slight acceleration.
Can you ignore and for how long?
I replace a rod bearings on a 5.7 hemi engine and stills doing same knocking sound ani ideas what’s the problem? Thanks everyone
When was the last time you adjusted valves clearance? Is the ignition timing correct based on the fuel you are using?
So it’s not putting ticker oil ?
This is cool and all, but this isn't my issue
Please help.... I'm at a loss for words.
(1972 "3970010" nickle block 350)
*There's no bottom end noises, it's stout down there and sounds like a sewing machine*
* NOT A SMOKER*
*NOT A DRINKER*
*NOT OVERHEATING*
I have a very slight "peck" that almost sounds like a lifter on my low/mild cammed 350 (probably just a * little * bigger lobe than stock) it's definitely in the top end.
The peck is virtually non existent at an idle.
The peck dissappear during acceleration.
When accelerating, you don't hear it.
You only hear it when RPM levels out at what ever speed youre going above 15mph,
And it sounds a little more aggressive coming back down to idle, not really bad though. But definitely sloppy sounding
I will add, when I was putting it in time before I pulled the valve cover, I noticed the ticking will get worse if it's advanced or retarded too far. .it was honestly a pain to time. It seems to want to run the best when advanced right before it gets too tight to crank over.its definitely not timed at 0, and I'm sure it's timed a bit past 2-12 degrees at idle. But it's had internal work and I don't know the engine build specs. It's an old build as well. The edelbrock carb is from the late 80s/early 90s and I'd imagine that's when the engine went in the car by the looks of things. Also adjusting the mixture screws has no effect on the tick whatsoever. Richening or leaning dosent make it worse or better. It's the same. Timing also dosdnt make it better. It only gets worse as you get it farther from where it's supposed to be.
Put it this way, it's literally so faint, I thought it was a slight exhaust leak from the back of the header. It's very faint.
I pulled my valve covers (this is the only car I own I didn't put the engine in myself, I have no clue on it's specs) and on the #5 exhaust side rocker stud, it has a brass acorn nut on top of it. I pulled the the valve covers to reseal valve covers. All lifters are pumping oil. They all appear to equally be pumping oil as well. Top end= lubed up good.
The valves are a cunt hair too tight. I left well enough alone, at top lifting was able to roll every pushrod around, so I figured if I can turn/roll them, they aren't dangerously too tight. Just tighter than I'd like.
*why is there an acorn nut on my stud? *
* why isn't the tick/peck constant? *
* why is it worse when you decrease in RPM and speed?*
I ofcourse didn't tear into if because I currently daily drive the car, and I baby it. I just pretended I didn't see that, and resealed it and drove it to work the next day. I can't afford down time right now and have to have transportation to make money for my wellbeing and family. So please don't tell me I am stupid or that I shouldn't have done that because I didn't want to I just didn't have much choice. I hate to destroy a 010 350 but i have 6 more of them ([4] 010 350s, [1] 1969 hi/p 327, [1] 1968 built 307 ) on stands in the garage, I will change it if need be and it blows so I'm not tooooooooooo worried but definitely want to save it because they aren't exactly making anymore 010 code 350s anymore and honestly I think they are, specifically the 010, the most bullet proof, idiot proof engines ever manufactured in the world. I've seen them really put through alot without catastrophe in more ways than one.
I need to change the oil but I'm just now recovering from severely seaping chrome valve covers that definitely didn't go back on. It would require a half quart every 2 or 3 days of driving it. So the oil is.......... somewhat fresh. When I resealed, I topped off the oil with about a half quart of Lucas oil to provide a little more filmy protection internally. It didn't really quiet things down, the tick just seems well lubricated now lol usually when I have a slight peck in cars I'm selling or other people's cars, Lucas and a Purolator filter with a back pressure spring does the trick and does away with it.
But this one's got me stumped. I'm not sure what the purpose of putting a cap acorn nut on the stud.... no others have this including the intake stud on #5, it's just the #5 exhaust valve rocker stud.
Has someone possibly stripped the threads on the stud?
Has it been wound up too tight and threw a rocker arm once upon a time?
Is the cam lobe worn causing the lifter to drop lower than it should?
Worn lifters? (Its flat tappet w/stock style rockers)
Bent pushrod?
Did they not degree the cam properly when it was installed?
Timing chain slop?
Bent valve?
What's wrong????
Who knows? Hopefully you do and can help a guy brainstorm how to tackle this unfortunate problem.
It seems to have aftermarket valve spring, and it has pushrod guides too that definitely aren't stock. It also has ".16" engraved on the inside of the head so I am assuming it's had the heads decked as well. It has power, this isn't an issue. It also has great oil pressure and isn't burning oil, nor getting water in the oil. It seems otherwise very clean and healthy other than just the stud having an acorn nut on it and that very faint tick im hearing. Also has headers. Power steering deleted, AC deleted and all their bracket so we know it's not caused by any of that junk.
My dad says he dosent hear any tick, but I do and I'm sure of it.. I asked my dad, he said "whaddyawant fromma engine from 1972???" And assured it wasn't a big deal but I'd like to address it before it gets worse. It's It's quite a bit of power, honestly isn't a gas Hog even with a 600cfm carb, and it's been very very dependable. It deserves to be fixed. I just hate to tear into it because otherwise it runs and drives so well.
I suppose I could start by changing the oil filter but it's wishful thinking I'm afraid. I changed filters when I bought the car. Everything I've ever drained from it has been extremely clean, and looks like new. No shavings, no sludge, no milky appearance. When I had the valve train exposed, it all was incredibly clean, not a spec of sludge in or on anything. Oil journals were impressively clean.
I'm honestly loosing sleep over this guys... I don't like the uncertain and I don't like driving a car with a shabby fix internally. Im about to have time to mess with it soon, any advice helps or personal experiences. I'd like to have a game Plan before I start.
Something tells me I'm gonna be pulling the heads ,,replacing valves,, valve seals,, rocker studs,, Cam,, pushrods,, lifters,, timing chain and timing gears. ... just my luck :/
I reckon it might be Time for that ungodly large demonic camshaft to scare old ladies, make kids cry, and..... make the bottom end knock on heavens door after a couple years or less at the track because it's not as fresh as the top end if I do a cam kit swap lol
oh..i expected to hear under the car
Nice. Liked that. I'm looking for help with this problem. Writeup below I've used on Nissan forums. I'm thinking my issue may be a failed hydraulic timing belt tensioner. Any ideas or experience you have is greatly appreciated!
Hello all! This is my first Nissan Pathfinder. I have always wanted one since the late 1990s. It's a 1998 SE 3.3L, automatic transmission, 167,000 miles on it. I got it at an estate sale for $2,000.
It has a loud knock or tap that happens part-time and so far it's not been resolved. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could point me to anything to check next, or describe if you had similar problems with yours. I've run the motor minimally...only to troubleshoot. Here's what it does and what I've done:
1. When it's first started, it knocks for less than 1 second and then gets entirely quiet. I hear maybe 2 knocks when it first starts. Then, when the motor is accelerated to 2000 RPMs it begins to knock and it keeps knocking until 3000ish RPMs. It increases in speed as the RPMs increase. If I let off the accelerator it stops knocking. When it's higher than 3,000 RPM it goes away. So it's in this midrange RPM the knock is present. It does this sitting still, or driving it.
The rig was very sheltered it's whole life from what I can tell. It was driven lightly by an elderly lady. It's in immaculate condition, inside and out. Garaged. Paint and interior is perfect.
Motor starts, idles and runs great other than the knock.
Oil is full. I dropped the oil pan and checked the main and rod bearings. There was not any play. I changed them anyways. Noise persisted. There was some material in the pan's bottom, about 1/3 tablespoon (1 teaspoon) of what seemed to be fine wear material. Which I would think is normal for 167,000 miles.
2. It has a P1400 error code, for the EGR solenoid. I have not chased that yet. I don't find where this would cause a knock though.
3. The transmission fluid is 1 to 2 quarts low (based on my guess from stick reading), but the noise does not seem to be coming from the transmission, and the vehicle moves and drives fine. No slippage.
What could be causing this part-time knock?
Hydraulic lifters? Timing belt slap? Harmonic balancer? Cracked flexplate? The noise seems too loud to be the lifters, and doesn't do it at low RPMs like lifters usually do.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Mine only happens when it is on drive. Not ever in park. Is that weird? Had to be above 2,000 rpms
What was it
Audi A6. $900. Oxygen sensor
Cool vid 👍🏼
Is this a different sound than if you use a too low of octane fuel and get a knock?
Yes, that would be called pinging and your right that's usually low octane in a higher compression situation.
@@ZanesGarage so I have a sound and I think it’s knocking. I posted a video of the sound and some one said it was a leak at the exhaust manifold but I replaced the gaskets and it is still there. Should I pull the valve covers to check?
Is my engine gone? It was low on oil and when I noticed it I filled it with oil, then today It started knocking from the engine really really really bad and cutting off as I drive!!! I can only drive slow, it still knocks really loud and bad and cuts off!!! What do I do!!??? 😩😥😥
part out
@@PerformanceBlueOverYou I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that but ok..thank u..😥
@@crystalxoxox1266 okay what I said was half joking, but here’s a more serious response. If it was low on oil like you said, especially if it was VERY low on oil, it’s very possibly you caused hot spots on either the rod bearings or the crankshaft bearings due to lack of oil. Basically, the bearings are ruined and the entire engine would have to be taken out to fix it. I’d take it to a mechanic to be sure but that’s what it sounds like happened in your case. Don’t drive it, it’s going to cause more extreme damage ie. piston going through the block.
@@PerformanceBlueOverYou Yup!! I just left 3 shops and they said EXACTLY WHAT U JUST SAID! MY POOR ENGINE IS GONE! 😓😓 So I have to either buy a new engine or sell it as is! Thank u so much! Be blessed and take care!!!...
I like to listen to Slipknot while I drive...this is going to be a problem I don't hear 🙉
Does anyone know if this sound can be cause by a bad VVT solenoid?
Can the piston rings being worn cause this sound? i am wondering this because we have an old moped that creates this type of ticking when at low rpm’s
You can have what's called piston slap
No. Worn rings dont make a sound. They just let a little oil past and is burned, causing it to smoke a little, blue smoke, and you have to add oil . Black smoke is too much gas, and white smoke is from water getting in the cylinder, burned and making steam coming out the tail pipe and quickly disappears.
Will this allow a car to charge but not run? I’ve noticed when trying to start my car after a jump, it was having a hard time and when it started it begin this loud knocking sound and then stopped running while battery was still on
My car just did the same thing!
Stalled, wouldn't start battery issue seemingly.
Got a Jump, it started and made noise.
What was it for you?
@@cyberlocc Same with mine, sent to mechanic
What can I do
Isn't this technically called rod knock and not engine knock/detonation?
Yeah in my case this is rod knock. But if you look up trends on what most people google when they have a "knock" they typically google engine knock or noise. Just trying to help out the most people I can 👍
@@ZanesGarage I hear ya. I've been trying to find the sound of actual detonation for 6 months lol
What are the causes of this happening?
Search "Engineering Explained engine knock"
Mucho helpo, grassio!
okay so like ever since i cut my muffler off my truck. like a week or so after its starting to knock and do sum funky shii at 50mph no clue wtf it is lmao
You could’ve bent a valve
Can anyone help me, i have a ticking problem thing like
Um mine has a loud chirp aswell but im confused about mine makes 502 lbs oil pressure cold start 72 when on gas cold barely cuz well no fuel pressure in tank due to mechanical pump and people STEALING GAS but eh roadkill keep the square body rust free junky looking jimmy/k5 fully option alive till new motor lol im not driving it i got it started so the city doesn't tow it where i live they can't say anything if it runs
Suddenly my car is making sound like dak dak dak while starting and driving alo
It sounds like it's gonna explode any second.
U could of remove the oil.pan too right and check.the bearings
Yeah you definitely could. For me I knew there was a major issue so the engine had to come out.
No he couldn't of offed nothing.
This is normal for a Chevy.
ok good, that's not what kind sound like, after i stop the car and let the revs drop, it kinda makes a shutter sound for a few seconds
also my airfilter looks a little dirty, could that be the problem?
I can hear it
That sound is pain
So that loud "tick" sound right
no, there's a Knock noise if you listen carefully, it's blending in with the Exhaust, so it's hard to hear.
SIR YOU ARE MISSING A VALVE COVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Car guy wannabe: hears engine knock noise after brief push on throttle.
Also car guy wannabe: is that turbo flutter? Dude thats sick!
Me: (sweating) my engine is naturaly aspirated.
Mine did this because of a leaking oil filter
Catch a con rod knock early enough and the engine will live again. Continue to drive a car with a con rod knock the engine dies a slow painful death
Michael, im pretty ignorant on engines? What’s a con rod. I was told I have a lifter ticking or knocking. Any suggestions?
@@Bone89 A connecting rod connects to the crankshaft which makes a piston go up and down. They have 2 bearings as shown on the video bearings if one or both are worn or damaged it causes the engine to knock. With ticking lifters it's not as bad and you can sometimes get away with using thicker oil to quiet them down a bit.
My Corolla rn 😢
Do u have a email for contact
In a chevy that's a common feature.
taking the engine apart Lol only few people know how to do that
That's the easy part though! Putting it back together is the real challenge
@@ZanesGarage jesus yeah that takes skill, im still learning .
You have vampire teeth.
Ahaahahaahahahhahah