Loved watching your restoration of the old lathe. Reminded me of my grandfather, who was always preaching patience and not overtightening or using too much force. Well done!
Lots and lots of pieces! Glad to see you;re almost finished. She really looks great and shows the pride you take in your work. Really enjoy looking over your shoulder. Learned a lot about how the lathe fits together and how the different parts interact with each other. To you and all who see this: Happy Holidays!
lathes like this were made for factory use, and to be used at least 8 hours a day constantly, the lathes of this type you see made now, are not made for that, for semi busy pro use, not constant production, but this would have cost as much as a house, but the manufacturer stayed in business and happily sold parts for 30 years or more, it didnt just become obsolete for lack of a part.
Constraints on quality due to production costs is a BS argument and it always will be. The Japanese disproved it by making high-quality cars to overcome overwhelmingly unfair tariff barriers. When a quality product lasts long enough, price is no longer the issue.
Despite all of the frenzied activity that Christmas demands of ordinary mortals, Keith still managed to record, edit, and post a new video 2 days before Christmas. That's dedication.
My South Bend uses a very similarly designed taper attachment. What I found was a lot easier for re-assembly was to hang the taper attachment on the carriage, then feed the screw in through the end of the attachment. The SB doesn't use a locating pin or anything that would let it carry the weight while I put the bolts in, so bending the screw was my fear. Looks good, progress is always a good thing. Merry Christmas Kieth, and Happy New Year. Thanks for the vids!
End of the job in sight. Years ago, I would have pulled a week end all-night'r to finish up a project like that. I found that it's best to leave electronic and electrical things for a time when I'm not brain muddled with hunger and lack of sleep, though.
Season Greetings and thanks for sharing your experiences over the year. I have come to the conclusion that guys like us need at least two lifetimes! to fully enjoy the gear we accumulate and or restore. Best wishes for 2017 From down under.
Keith, I'm in the process of buying the same model lathe. I don't have great pics, only what the seller had up but I'll send you some. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Can't tell you how much I enjoy your videos!!! I know it's a lot of work, but you do a great job, my only hope is TH-cam makes it worth your time. I'll see you next week, I have some Christmas gifts for your shop if you need them!!! Lance
Hello Keith, Great to see the lathe getting compleet bit by bit and I am very curious about the first time the machine get's to work. Looking forward to the next video ! I will wish you and your family very happy Christmastime and many greetings from Roel !
I believe the crosslide etc has to be disengaged to use the taper cutting attachment . The wheel may turn but it drives nothing so long as it is separated from the taper device which controls its movements for now on during the taper cut . If I remember correctly that's how it is done. When I bought my own lathe I bought a taper cutting attachment never used it so sold it on to someone who would. Alistair
Keith, glad to see the LeBond restoration almost completed. Would it be possible to someday do a video on all the different kinds of oils and lubricants you use including their properties and uses? This video mentions Way Oil and Light Oil and you have mentioned others in the past.
Keith I miss a lot of your videos for some reason TH-cam decided to uncheck notification bell so I get an email when you put one up. The LeBlond Lathe paint job looks really good. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
That cross-slide nut went back in surprisingly easy compared to how it came out! I thought it was going to be an interference fit back into the cross-slide and you were going to have a whale of a time trying to drive it back in from below! Being a slip fit though made your hammer handle lift trick possible. The dried oil and other gunk in the hole is what made it where it had to be driven out originally am I correct in assuming? The set nuts having their threads cut into the nut itself is an ingenious way of helping ensure the nut is only put back in one way, and also ensures the set screws go back into the exact same holes they came out of. We need this level of cleverness back in modern made equipment!
yes its amazing after you remove all the dried compacted dirt and various corrosion, things go back together pretty well, modern stuff isnt meant to come apart and will usually break in some awful way, old machines and old motorbikes could be taken apart on a weekend and put back together just fine.
Thanks for this interesting video. It is AFAIK the first time that in youtube a telescopic type taper attachment is shown apart with all parts visible. I believe your explanation of the black clamp riding on the slotted bar (34'00" into the video) is not quite complete. When clamped down its only two purposes are 1. to block the cross slide hand wheel function during taper cutting so you cannot use it to change depth of cut and 2. to eliminate the backlash of the cross slide spindle nut. When the black clamp is loose you can still cut tapers while you can also use the cross slide wheel to set depth of cut but you have to put up with the backlash of the cross slide spindle nut. In non-taper mode you have to loosen the black clamp (and the bed clamp) since it acts as a second cross slide clamp. In non-taper mode you have to make sure that the slide in the taper attachment is not moving by accident e.g. by too much friction of the bed clamp or caught objects otherwise the cross slide is unintentionally moved in or out unless the taper was set to zero. It would make sense to have a clamp to lock down the taper slide to the carriage extension to avoid unwanted sliding. But I have not seen it implemented here other than using the big gib to lock movement. In this link I have earlier put a comment explaining the difference btw. regular and telescopic taper attachments. th-cam.com/video/xRIk4e3ZYog/w-d-xo.html
Agreed. I was curious about that. I've read that before using a taper attachment any, you needed to somehow disconnect the cross-slide's lead screw in order so that in case you accidentally engaged the cross-feed while turning tapers you wouldn't cause major damage to the cross-slide and apron.
+bcbloc02 Thanks for the explanation. I can say though, that after watching Mr. Fenner use his tracer attachment so much, that even though it is more expensive an option, I'd prefer a tracer attachment with its own toolpost because of the tracer being not connected any to the cross-slide's leadscrew, its just along for the ride on the cross-slide in normal turning ops.
The cross slide leadscrew is two parts splined (keyed, in this case) together like the steering column on a car. When using the taper attachment, you can still operate the cross slide handwheel as normal.
I recently scored an old leblond regal 10 with the taper attachment. However it's missing one piece, the clamp that secures it to the ways at the rear. I've been looking all over for one but apparently they are incredibly rare and i've not been able to find one at any price.
Merry Christmas Keith, I would like to see a close up of how the taper activates the cross feed if possible. On mine and other smaller lathes I have seen with an attachment the cross feed nut had to be released or removed when using the taper so it could govern the in and out feed of the cross slide. It is interesting to see a different approach. Take care. Doug
Is there video of removal and refurbish of the screw assembly? My dial assembly seems to be frozen and has quite a bit of backlash. There seems to be a slight marking to see one taper pin but it doesn't seem to budge. The other one 's location is not visible. Also not that familiar so don't want to damage trying to remove as I am not certain where the parts mate with each other.
Hey Keith....if you Google " LeBlond Taper Attachment" then click on the Images, about the 10th photo shows a cover that is hinged and tipped up. It hinges on 2 pins on the end of the cs cover, and is profiled the same as the cs cover....about 4 photos further.....there is a photo of the cover itself......how to you disconnect the cs screw when using the taper attachment?
I don't quite understand how the taper attachment moves the cross slide. Isn't the cross slide threaded onto a shaft that goes into the handle? How can the cross slide move in and out without moving the handle?? Hope this makes sense.
I was thinking the same....i notice the keyway, but how the threaded shaft doesn't slide inside the handle when he turn the handle?...maybe there is a screw on the face of the handle that holds the shaft when not using the taper attachment, but i don't see on the video...
I though I'd worked it out but can't come up with an answer that allowed him to run the taper then with only loosening the taper nut then use the front handle. Either I missed something or an engage step is missing from the video or its just magic.
The "nut" that engages the slide on the taper attachment to the bracket coming from the cross-slide may be a casting with an integral lever handle (much like the nut for the quill-lock on most tailstocks). Easy enough to make, or (very non-original) you could get one of those positionable lever handles from McMaster-Carr (McM-C# 6522K76 ) or non-positionable (# 91038A031). The pages around there offer quite a variety (and price) of "handled nuts". It wasn't clear to me how the cross-slide lead screw is disengaged so that the taper attachment controls the cross-slide, unless the lead-screw is always positioned by the taper attachment which seems like it would increase the amount of backlash/lost motion by adding any slop in the cross-slide lead-screw nut to any slop in the taper attachment slide.
User name Tom Walter (google that name and "le blond 13" and you'll find it) has a functional taper attachement. So, if you think you're still missing something, check his videos because he has a video that explains how it all fits and works.
Tho, i would like to point out that you'd probably be better off if you'd modify that whole back piece to the Logan arrangement, where there's a part that sits on top of the taper attachment and is bolted in the back of the cross-slide. I believe the way Logan made that attachment is far better in terms of rigidity and time/use. Certainly a lot more protected than a simple slide. Also, a lot of people have modified the screw that locks and now use a handle (like in the ones that Tom Lipton likes to use in his various projects, the proper name escapes me, but i believe they are called quick releases). IMO it's a simple enough part to make, and, it doesn't need to be as fancy as Logan manufactured theirs, it's basically a Isosceles trapezoid that has a slot cut down the middle. Cheers for the holidays!!
The lathe sure looks nice. You guys make me feel bad with my machines with 14 coats of chipping paint. I guess at least mine are well protected as you have to go thru 1/4in of paint before you can damage the surface. LOL
Good point on the extra paint"undercoating", but respect is paid to a one man powerhouse who works full time, runs a farm and Heavy machining with the educator videos you produce on your channel. "Oh uh I can't come into work today I have to paint my Cincinnati". LOL I am sure there is work gets done that you dont even share on here.
Keith Kelly Oh yeah I do hours and hours of work every week that doesn't get filmed like replacing the failed blower motor on my furnace last week or pulling trees out that decided to start growing up around outbildings or fence rows just to name a few. Always something going on.
I'm confused with the taper attachment. how to it make the cross slide move while the crossfeed handle doesn't move.. but then one you loosen the taper you just crank on the handle and the cross slide moves.. is there a slip feed or something inside?
Keith, is it OK to polish all the non painted surfaces or would that compromise the precision of these individual components? I would have buffed all those surfaces to a like new condition since everything was dissassembled. Great video and thank you for all you do for your TH-cam fan base. Great meeting you at Arnfest 2016.
Also, Mr. Rucker, I don't remember now if you said it in an earlier vid of this series, but how bad is the backlash and wear in the cross-slide's leadscrew and nut on the LaBlond? I ask this since in Mr. Fenner's series on his Rutland lathe, there was so much slop in the cross-slide leadscrew and nuts that he decided to make a new set of nuts and will turn a new leadscrew for the cross-slide on it, and its now left me wondering how much the cross-slide leadscrew and nut on your LaBlond are worn.
It is just a light machine oil. Not sure of the brand or type - I have a gallon jug that I got from somewhere years ago. I think that I just specified a "light machine oil" when I got it.
Loved watching your restoration of the old lathe. Reminded me of my grandfather, who was always preaching patience and not overtightening or using too much force. Well done!
Lots and lots of pieces! Glad to see you;re almost finished. She really looks great and shows the pride you take in your work. Really enjoy looking over your shoulder. Learned a lot about how the lathe fits together and how the different parts interact with each other. To you and all who see this: Happy Holidays!
Thank you Keith for letting us look over your shoulder. Merry Christmas and a blessings in the new year.
It's a true joy seeing what planned obsolescence does NOT look like.
lathes like this were made for factory use, and to be used at least 8 hours a day constantly, the lathes of this type you see made now, are not made for that, for semi busy pro use, not constant production, but this would have cost as much as a house, but the manufacturer stayed in business and happily sold parts for 30 years or more, it didnt just become obsolete for lack of a part.
Constraints on quality due to production costs is a BS argument and it always will be. The Japanese disproved it by making high-quality cars to overcome overwhelmingly unfair tariff barriers. When a quality product lasts long enough, price is no longer the issue.
Despite all of the frenzied activity that Christmas demands of ordinary mortals, Keith still managed to record, edit, and post a new video 2 days before Christmas. That's dedication.
you're doing a wonderful job restoring the LeBlonde.
Thanks Kieth, Merry Xmas... And thanks to bcbloc and Patroit for the explanations.
Your knowledge on how every piece of that lathe works is impressive. Wishing you a Merry Christmas. Thanks for the video!
Merry Christmas from the great white north of Michigan.
A lot of parts in that thing; I'd be a year getting it back together. Thanks Keith, Happy New Year! Greg
Enjoyed and jealous of the space around the lathe and you in a winter tee shirt!!
THANK YOU...for sharing. Merry Christmas.
looking really good kieth
Merry Christmas from Sweden, Keith 🎄🎄🎄
My South Bend uses a very similarly designed taper attachment. What I found was a lot easier for re-assembly was to hang the taper attachment on the carriage, then feed the screw in through the end of the attachment. The SB doesn't use a locating pin or anything that would let it carry the weight while I put the bolts in, so bending the screw was my fear.
Looks good, progress is always a good thing. Merry Christmas Kieth, and Happy New Year. Thanks for the vids!
Looking really good Keith. Can't wait to see her making some chips!
Merry Christmas from Richmond, TX
Murray Odom And Merry Christmas from Richmond VA
End of the job in sight. Years ago, I would have pulled a week end all-night'r to finish up a project like that. I found that it's best to leave electronic and electrical things for a time when I'm not brain muddled with hunger and lack of sleep, though.
It's coming along Keith! Nice work!
you will have your first machine working in your new machine shop soon will be good to see it making some chips
good stuff Keith
looking real good keith
Another fine Video Keith - Thanks
Wow looks great Keith. Can't wait to see it run!
Merry Christmas, Keith.
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas from Texas
Merry Christmas
Can't wait to see it make some chips! Looks great Keith!
GREAT JOB. YOU HAVE A NICE MACHINE.
Season Greetings and thanks for sharing your experiences over the year. I have come to the conclusion that guys like us need at least two lifetimes! to fully enjoy the gear we accumulate and or restore. Best wishes for 2017 From down under.
Good video Keith. Nice looking lathe.
Keith, I'm in the process of buying the same model lathe. I don't have great pics, only what the seller had up but I'll send you some. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Merry Christmas Keith, I am really enjoying this restoration.
happy holidays and merry christmas
Looking great!
Need to see the disassembly
Thanks again Keith. Love your videos
Merry Christmas Keith!
Nice work, You're going to be so happy when you are done. Love the channel, keep it up!
Can't tell you how much I enjoy your videos!!! I know it's a lot of work, but you do a great job, my only hope is TH-cam makes it worth your time. I'll see you next week, I have some Christmas gifts for your shop if you need them!!! Lance
That lathe is looking great now Keith. Happy Holidays.
the engineering on that compound...wow.
Great restoration Keith. Learning a lot from these vids.
Hello Keith,
Great to see the lathe getting compleet bit by bit and I am very curious about the first time the machine get's to work.
Looking forward to the next video !
I will wish you and your family very happy Christmastime and many greetings from Roel !
This lathe is just beauty... I like it!
Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Great vid... Merry Christmas 🎄
GREAT JOB , GREAT VIDEO & MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AN YOUR FAMILY...
I believe the crosslide etc has to be disengaged to use the taper cutting attachment . The wheel may turn but it drives nothing so long as it is separated from the taper device which controls its movements for now on during the taper cut . If I remember correctly that's how it is done. When I bought my own lathe I bought a taper cutting attachment never used it so sold it on to someone who would. Alistair
Looking great Keith and Merry Christmas to and your family.
Looking good.
Have a merry Christmas Keith, Thanks for all your great videos. I almost forgot Have a happy and safe New Year.
Keith, glad to see the LeBond restoration almost completed. Would it be possible to someday do a video on all the different kinds of oils and lubricants you use including their properties and uses? This video mentions Way Oil and Light Oil and you have mentioned others in the past.
Keith I miss a lot of your videos for some reason TH-cam decided to uncheck notification bell so I get an email when you put one up. The LeBlond Lathe paint job looks really good. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
You are going to need a bigger shop, Keith
Merry Christmas from Scotland 8-)
I sure hope a fellow tuber has what ya need for photos , Love that taper attachment Keith .. Looking great man ! Thumbs up ..MERRY CHRISTMAS !!
Hi Keith,
Thank you for all your content! Merry Christmas to you and your family!🎅 🎄 🎁
you work in my Dream shop... absolut fantastic. greetings from germany
Interesting seeing how the LeBlond taper attachment is built. If you get a chance check out my latest video on the Monarch taper attachment. 👍🏻
Wishing you and yours a very Merry Christmas and a safe and Happy 2017
Uncle's LeBlond had the exact same compound slide corner damage from chuck jaws - must be pretty common :-).
I love the way you say, "ohwel" (oil) :) Merry Christmas to you and your family, Keith!
Rich
Quality you can tell on that lathe, you wont find wear compensators on cross the pond machines. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
That cross-slide nut went back in surprisingly easy compared to how it came out! I thought it was going to be an interference fit back into the cross-slide and you were going to have a whale of a time trying to drive it back in from below! Being a slip fit though made your hammer handle lift trick possible. The dried oil and other gunk in the hole is what made it where it had to be driven out originally am I correct in assuming?
The set nuts having their threads cut into the nut itself is an ingenious way of helping ensure the nut is only put back in one way, and also ensures the set screws go back into the exact same holes they came out of. We need this level of cleverness back in modern made equipment!
yes its amazing after you remove all the dried compacted dirt and various corrosion, things go back together pretty well, modern stuff isnt meant to come apart and will usually break in some awful way, old machines and old motorbikes could be taken apart on a weekend and put back together just fine.
Wery nice video, the lathe it's beautiful, thanks for shering and merry christmas to you and your family.
merry Christmas from the uk keith
Looking goooood!
watching for a long time Merry Christmas
nice job
Quit the complicated tapper attachment ! Merry Christmas!
Thanks for this interesting video. It is AFAIK the first time that in youtube a telescopic type taper attachment is shown apart with all parts visible. I believe your explanation of the black clamp riding on the slotted bar (34'00" into the video) is not quite complete. When clamped down its only two purposes are 1. to block the cross slide hand wheel function during taper cutting so you cannot use it to change depth of cut and 2. to eliminate the backlash of the cross slide spindle nut. When the black clamp is loose you can still cut tapers while you can also use the cross slide wheel to set depth of cut but you have to put up with the backlash of the cross slide spindle nut. In non-taper mode you have to loosen the black clamp (and the bed clamp) since it acts as a second cross slide clamp. In non-taper mode you have to make sure that the slide in the taper attachment is not moving by accident e.g. by too much friction of the bed clamp or caught objects otherwise the cross slide is unintentionally moved in or out unless the taper was set to zero. It would make sense to have a clamp to lock down the taper slide to the carriage extension to avoid unwanted sliding. But I have not seen it implemented here other than using the big gib to lock movement. In this link I have earlier put a comment explaining the difference btw. regular and telescopic taper attachments. th-cam.com/video/xRIk4e3ZYog/w-d-xo.html
Can someone explain to me how the cross slide is able to move in taper mode without the cross feed dial turning?
My guess is remember that keyed slot mentioned in the handwheel earlier? I think the screw just pulls out of the handwheel.
Agreed. I was curious about that. I've read that before using a taper attachment any, you needed to somehow disconnect the cross-slide's lead screw in order so that in case you accidentally engaged the cross-feed while turning tapers you wouldn't cause major damage to the cross-slide and apron.
+bcbloc02 Thanks for the explanation. I can say though, that after watching Mr. Fenner use his tracer attachment so much, that even though it is more expensive an option, I'd prefer a tracer attachment with its own toolpost because of the tracer being not connected any to the cross-slide's leadscrew, its just along for the ride on the cross-slide in normal turning ops.
On ours the taper attachment moves the actual back of the screw. So you can still move the screw just fine, with no damage of hurting anything.
The cross slide leadscrew is two parts splined (keyed, in this case) together like the steering column on a car. When using the taper attachment, you can still operate the cross slide handwheel as normal.
+Keith Rucker - I don't understand. How does the taper attachment function without interfering with the cross-slide screw?
I recently scored an old leblond regal 10 with the taper attachment. However it's missing one piece, the clamp that secures it to the ways at the rear. I've been looking all over for one but apparently they are incredibly rare and i've not been able to find one at any price.
Merry Christmas Keith, I would like to see a close up of how the taper activates the cross feed if possible. On mine and other smaller lathes I have seen with an attachment the cross feed nut had to be released or removed when using the taper so it could govern the in and out feed of the cross slide. It is interesting to see a different approach. Take care. Doug
how did you disengage the crosslide nut to let the taper control the cross slide? my brain is not computing haha
Is there video of removal and refurbish of the screw assembly? My dial assembly seems to be frozen and has quite a bit of backlash. There seems to be a slight marking to see one taper pin but it doesn't seem to budge. The other one 's location is not visible. Also not that familiar so don't want to damage trying to remove as I am not certain where the parts mate with each other.
Hey Keith....if you Google " LeBlond Taper Attachment" then click on the Images, about the 10th photo shows a cover that is hinged and tipped up. It hinges on 2 pins on the end of the cs cover, and is profiled the same as the cs cover....about 4 photos further.....there is a photo of the cover itself......how to you disconnect the cs screw when using the taper attachment?
Great Vlogs. Make me wish that I had one.
I don't quite understand how the taper attachment moves the cross slide. Isn't the cross slide threaded onto a shaft that goes into the handle? How can the cross slide move in and out without moving the handle?? Hope this makes sense.
I think it slides on the key in the handle. Not sure. Ours uses splines to drive it.
I was thinking the same....i notice the keyway, but how the threaded shaft doesn't slide inside the handle when he turn the handle?...maybe there is a screw on the face of the handle that holds the shaft when not using the taper attachment, but i don't see on the video...
I though I'd worked it out but can't come up with an answer that allowed him to run the taper then with only loosening the taper nut then use the front handle. Either I missed something or an engage step is missing from the video or its just magic.
The "nut" that engages the slide on the taper attachment to the bracket coming from the cross-slide may be a casting with an integral lever handle (much like the nut for the quill-lock on most tailstocks). Easy enough to make, or (very non-original) you could get one of those positionable lever handles from McMaster-Carr (McM-C# 6522K76 ) or non-positionable (# 91038A031). The pages around there offer quite a variety (and price) of "handled nuts".
It wasn't clear to me how the cross-slide lead screw is disengaged so that the taper attachment controls the cross-slide, unless the lead-screw is always positioned by the taper attachment which seems like it would increase the amount of backlash/lost motion by adding any slop in the cross-slide lead-screw nut to any slop in the taper attachment slide.
How does the cross slide disengage from the cross screw to allow the slide to float when attached to the taper attachment?
how does the cross slide disengage from the screw when it is following the taper taper attachment?
It doesn't. It's driven by the keyway, but it just slides on that.
OK, the screw telescopes into a tube attached to the dial/crank, right?
Would the taper attachment way grabber get in the way of the tailstock?
Is there a segment where the painting and preparation for painting is explained / shown ?
keith cool video.
User name Tom Walter (google that name and "le blond 13" and you'll find it) has a functional taper attachement. So, if you think you're still missing something, check his videos because he has a video that explains how it all fits and works.
Tho, i would like to point out that you'd probably be better off if you'd modify that whole back piece to the Logan arrangement, where there's a part that sits on top of the taper attachment and is bolted in the back of the cross-slide. I believe the way Logan made that attachment is far better in terms of rigidity and time/use. Certainly a lot more protected than a simple slide. Also, a lot of people have modified the screw that locks and now use a handle (like in the ones that Tom Lipton likes to use in his various projects, the proper name escapes me, but i believe they are called quick releases). IMO it's a simple enough part to make, and, it doesn't need to be as fancy as Logan manufactured theirs, it's basically a Isosceles trapezoid that has a slot cut down the middle. Cheers for the holidays!!
I have the same problem but missing alot more.
I just use the offset tail stock method .... yea its a hassle .
The lathe sure looks nice. You guys make me feel bad with my machines with 14 coats of chipping paint. I guess at least mine are well protected as you have to go thru 1/4in of paint before you can damage the surface. LOL
Yeah, but yours are HUGE and you've got Baily. Those count a bunch!
Good point on the extra paint"undercoating", but respect is paid to a one man powerhouse who works full time, runs a farm and Heavy machining with the educator videos you produce on your channel. "Oh uh I can't come into work today I have to paint my Cincinnati". LOL I am sure there is work gets done that you dont even share on here.
Keith Kelly
Oh yeah I do hours and hours of work every week that doesn't get filmed like replacing the failed blower motor on my furnace last week or pulling trees out that decided to start growing up around outbildings or fence rows just to name a few. Always something going on.
bcbloc02 ALways!
Merry Christmas Keith in your summer -T- shirt.Great viedo. One ? ,why don't you use anti seeze compound on the threads?
Keith you don't have to tighten the taper nut down to cut a taper only tighten the slide nuts down on the way
I'm confused with the taper attachment. how to it make the cross slide move while the crossfeed handle doesn't move.. but then one you loosen the taper you just crank on the handle and the cross slide moves.. is there a slip feed or something inside?
Keith, is it OK to polish all the non painted surfaces or would that compromise the precision of these individual components? I would have buffed all those surfaces to a like new condition since everything was dissassembled. Great video and thank you for all you do for your TH-cam fan base. Great meeting you at Arnfest 2016.
Keith the leblond is looking great! If you need to make some room in your shop let me know I can store that for you ;)
Hi Keith, On the SB you need to release the nut. How does this allow taper movement without doing that?
Merry Christmas
Also, Mr. Rucker, I don't remember now if you said it in an earlier vid of this series, but how bad is the backlash and wear in the cross-slide's leadscrew and nut on the LaBlond? I ask this since in Mr. Fenner's series on his Rutland lathe, there was so much slop in the cross-slide leadscrew and nuts that he decided to make a new set of nuts and will turn a new leadscrew for the cross-slide on it, and its now left me wondering how much the cross-slide leadscrew and nut on your LaBlond are worn.
no she's really looking nice.
Keith if you wouldn't mind could you send me a link to the oil you have in the brass oiler. Thanks!
It is just a light machine oil. Not sure of the brand or type - I have a gallon jug that I got from somewhere years ago. I think that I just specified a "light machine oil" when I got it.
Please show how to wire a drum switch when you get to that stage.
When is the Gala Christmas Special coming out? Merry Christmas Keith!