First off this is a great video. Wish I would have seen it a few months ago. I was removing a bridge on a guitar I bought online. I saw a guy remove one using a heat gun( Which is nothing more than a high temp blow dryer) Anyway, It was too hot and started to damage the lacquer. I should have stopped and rethought about what I was doing, but it is hard to stop once you have started. One thing that I learned that the video did not mention is do not go across the grain always go with the grain.
Titebond aliphatic resin is the best choice, although hide glue which is a tad harder to use as it sets so quick is also good, reason being the bridge may have to come off again one day and some glues won't budge :-)
Julyan, nice video. Why not warm up the bridge some w/ the iron to get things rolling, instead of going right in w/ a warm spatula? Wouldn't the heat start loosening the whole bridge instead of just little parts here and there?
Of course you can if you mask off. My technique is ok I guess so I may use heat on a stubbornly glued bridge, Its surprising how easy they can come off with a hot sharp spatula though, remember the spatula is so hot the heat transfer is only where you put the spatula. The amount of heat required for an entire bridge may loosen internal struts as its a larger area, just my thoughts :-)
+alex tworkowski No way, serious risk of loosening interior struts in the process, which will cause more damage and more work. Going straight in heats glue immedietly to the confined area you want to loosen.
what is that simple tool you're using to heat up and push under the bridge? I'm getting ready to refinish, refret, and rebridge an Ovation guitar with a few cracks on the top wood. any tips/help?
If Titebond aliphatic resin doesn't work with the correct long reach clamps which you will have to buy, then you will have to remove the bridge, clean pairing surfaces carefully, and re-glue. You will want to glue that crack first, squeeze in the Titebond, wipe off, and clamp if possible, without clamps it will still work, however if the crack is too big it will need a piece inserted. Check the top has not bellyed too much, in which case it may be cheaper to have it done by a pro. Julyan.
In a different video (not one of yours) a person suggested scoring around the bridge with a razor. He said doing so would make it less likely to pull finish around the bridge as its moved. What are your thoughts on his comment? Have you had any issues with sections of the finish coming off using this method? Thank you, the video is super helpful.
You must be experienced to do this job BrazosP. I only foiund it was loose on entry, all guitars are different, protect with low tack masking tape not cardboard, else your spatula will be too high off the top and dig in at an angle.
that's fine, i understand. Can you at least tell me what glue you used to put the bridge back on? I've seen so many people vouch for different kinds, and say these others are terrible, while other are vouching for the "terrible" ones and saying the others are bad...
Hello on my guitar it has a split on the back on the guitar itself where the bridge is and the guitar is bowed abit plus the bridge itself is coming off abit atleast an eightth of an inch. How can I repair the guitar?
It does if you're not careful obviously, I've pulled hundreds of bridges and assess each one whether I need to mask off or not, this was always going to come off easily.
Lol vandal, didn't get round to that eh! Make sure you have 3-5 long reach clamps (visit Stewmac.com, although are expensive so you may want to get it done by a pro). Use a couple of old bridge pins pressed in both e string holes to line up and use titebond aliphatic resin. Clean glue ooze immediately and gently re-ream each strings hole until the pins fits snugly.
hey thanks yes think you are right better to pay more and get proprer job i may concider you you def know whatyou are doing ive got your email address thanks ill be in touch
Nice to learn something from somebody who knows what they are doing.
Thanks. Please keep the videos coming!
This video has truly helped me. Thanks
First off this is a great video. Wish I would have seen it a few months ago.
I was removing a bridge on a guitar I bought online. I saw a guy remove one using a heat gun( Which is nothing more than a high temp blow dryer) Anyway, It was too hot and started to damage the lacquer. I should have stopped and rethought about what I was doing, but it is hard to stop once you have started.
One thing that I learned that the video did not mention is do not go across the grain always go with the grain.
The master himself he did this job on mine and it was perfect great to see him share his secrets with us great work Julyan!!
Thanks. Your video was exactly what I needed to see. My bridge began pulling up.
This guy has got balls and skills doing this without tape. Probably did it already a thousand times.
Can't do it with tape the fkn tape would melt
Well done and very instructive. Thanks for sharing this.
Very helpful! Thank you. God bless you and yours.😁👍
Thanks! Exactly the video I needed!
Titebond aliphatic resin is the best choice, although hide glue which is a tad harder to use as it sets so quick is also good, reason being the bridge may have to come off again one day and some glues won't budge :-)
I get the idea of thinning it with a grinder brilliant!
Useful vid Julyan thanks for this.
This was GREAT!! Thank you for sharing.
What if the bridge is not loose? Do you still use spatula method, or do u cover the guitar w cardboard and heat who bridge from the top?
Yes, mask off, heat the spatula making sure you are not in contact with the lacquer, moving a very small amount at a time.
Julyan, nice video. Why not warm up the bridge some w/ the iron to get things rolling, instead of going right in w/ a warm spatula? Wouldn't the heat start loosening the whole bridge instead of just little parts here and there?
Of course you can if you mask off. My technique is ok I guess so I may use heat on a stubbornly glued bridge, Its surprising how easy they can come off with a hot sharp spatula though, remember the spatula is so hot the heat transfer is only where you put the spatula. The amount of heat required for an entire bridge may loosen internal struts as its a larger area, just my thoughts :-)
+alex tworkowski No way, serious risk of loosening interior struts in the process, which will cause more damage and more work. Going straight in heats glue immedietly to the confined area you want to loosen.
Nice job.
what is that simple tool you're using to heat up and push under the bridge? I'm getting ready to refinish, refret, and rebridge an Ovation guitar with a few cracks on the top wood. any tips/help?
I'm doing the same.
I have a refret job on a Taylor and a bridge and cracked top on a 1967 classical guitar from Mexico
its a ground thin kitchen spatula
If Titebond aliphatic resin doesn't work with the correct long reach clamps which you will have to buy, then you will have to remove the bridge, clean pairing surfaces carefully, and re-glue. You will want to glue that crack first, squeeze in the Titebond, wipe off, and clamp if possible, without clamps it will still work, however if the crack is too big it will need a piece inserted. Check the top has not bellyed too much, in which case it may be cheaper to have it done by a pro. Julyan.
that moment when you try this and fuck up : (
Yes if you are not confident then you must, although it's thickness can stop the blade getting in to the joint properly.
In a different video (not one of yours) a person suggested scoring around the bridge with a razor. He said doing so would make it less likely to pull finish around the bridge as its moved. What are your thoughts on his comment? Have you had any issues with sections of the finish coming off using this method? Thank you, the video is super helpful.
You must be experienced to do this job BrazosP. I only foiund it was loose on entry, all guitars are different, protect with low tack masking tape not cardboard, else your spatula will be too high off the top and dig in at an angle.
Great clip! Keep up the great work :-)
shlould you have taped arounf the bridge to protect the sitka top?
absolutely, although i didn't have a lot of heat as this one was quite loose.
thanks. nice tut!
Depends how confident you are and how much experience you have, certainly mask a stubborn bridge.
I can't find a bridge that fits my guitar anywhere, is it fairly commonplace that you have to form your own bridge from a blank.
If you mean the wooden bridge, unfortunately yes, if an exact one can't be found. If you mean the saddle then these are easier to make.
Very useful thank you
Beautifully done
mate do you do neck resets have a gibson j40 but action is too high 8th of an inch but there is not any saddle left what would you charge ? L
Since you were replacing it, Put a peice of parchment paper and let the iron rest and it will come off all in one
To give an accurate repair cost quote I'd need good pictures of the damage. Where are you in the world Steve?
that's fine, i understand. Can you at least tell me what glue you used to put the bridge back on? I've seen so many people vouch for different kinds, and say these others are terrible, while other are vouching for the "terrible" ones and saying the others are bad...
Titebond Original
An everyday kitchen spatula I ground down on my grinder so almost razor sharp. Thats an awful lot of work to be brief with tips!
any of you uses this method? what could go wrong?
Hello on my guitar it has a split on the back on the guitar itself where the bridge is and the guitar is bowed abit plus the bridge itself is coming off abit atleast an eightth of an inch. How can I repair the guitar?
What materials used to repair
If you repair this yourself never go against the grain ever. If you do will be replacing your saddle/and or bridge very often.
Sometimes you have to go against the grain, learning how to do that properly is another thing.
I have to change mine because the big G string is messed up and rubbed down in the hole so the freaking string wont stick with the nut bolt
Thank you sm
Bridge how can I make a bridge for my electric guitar
Can i use elmer's glue?
This DOESN'T harm the finish?
It does if you're not careful obviously, I've pulled hundreds of bridges and assess each one whether I need to mask off or not, this was always going to come off easily.
i dont understand they are not removeing the bridge the bridge sets in the saddle .so he's removeing the saddle
The saddle sits in the bridge, not the other way around.
That was fucking knarly..... where do you het the "spatula"? great fucking video thanks!!!!
How to fix the bridge again ?
Hi i never made a video for that so check another on youtube Govi sorry :-)
good and easy way.
on the previous repair look like the peg hole where set back wouldn't it be out of tune
edmundo oliver sorry I don't understand what you mean?
you said the previous repair was plugged they looked like peg hole
edmundo oliver ah yes I remember now, intonation is perfect.
ok thanks im thinking £200 so bit too dear for me
Lol vandal, didn't get round to that eh! Make sure you have 3-5 long reach clamps (visit Stewmac.com, although are expensive so you may want to get it done by a pro). Use a couple of old bridge pins pressed in both e string holes to line up and use titebond aliphatic resin. Clean glue ooze immediately and gently re-ream each strings hole until the pins fits snugly.
Painters tape, too late when you've gouged the finish.
3:38 I'm so mature!
Does the guitar have. A pick up
SAME
Cool TheLeerain, you'll be lucky to get it done by a pro for £200. Just don't take it to an amateur or attempt t yourself.
hey thanks yes think you are right better to pay more and get proprer job i may concider you you def know whatyou are doing ive got your email address thanks ill be in touch