I had a bridge lifting up at the low E end. I didn't have money to buy clamps so I used a bolt the size of the string peg hole with two wide washers two rubber fender washers and a wing nut. Shot some wood glue under the bridge tightened the wing nut. It actually worked well..
I must have been watching way too many guitar repair videos. However, I'm glad I have. When this popped up in my feed it was quite a surprise to learn there was a luthier with my name out there. Nice work, and appropriate since I need to re-mount the bridge on my old Ventura. All the best from another James Hood 😁
Just a few things I noticed here. Every Guild dread I have ever seen or owned has “x” bracing. Thus in order to properly clamp a bridge, i have made a variety of inside clamping cauls so that I don’t damage the bracing, and also so the clamp doesn’t walk on me when the inside clamp point is different from the point on the bridge. Also, I have never seen a bridge reglued with the saddle in place. That just makes the job a lot harder to do. On all of the Guilds I have worked on, the bridges are not flat on the bottom but slightly curved, as are the tops. I had the misfortune of the clamps being able to pull the top to match a flat bottom bridge, which ends up looking like the top is bulging under the wings. I use a 6” machinists rule to shoot the bottom of a bridge and the top area to determine how much to relieve the bridge. It is way too easy to thin the bridge unevenly with a belt sander, and you cannot get the relief correct at all. On several of the neck resets I have done, (all of them actually) I had to make a new bridge because the bridge and saddle were already so thin, that there was no break angle left in the strings over the saddle. That is where I realized the there is a bottom curve on Guild bridges. Martins too. As thin as this bridge was and as low as the saddle was, it might be neck reset time. I know some customers don’t want to spend the money, but its the only way to really get the setup right. Interestingly, I learned most of this by experience, and by watching a ton of TH-cam videos from repair luthiers.
I appreciate your patience and skill in working on acoustics. I've got a 79' Applause Acoustic/Electric Guitar Bridge that I need to replace, but can't find a replacement for it. Any suggestions on where to get a bridge that would work? This one does not use Pins, but string holes in the side of the front edge of the bridge. This one of my first acoustics that I purchased brand new back in 1979 and really love this guitar. I thought getting a block of rosewood and trying to make one from scratch, but not sure that would work or not. Removing the old bridge is tedious and requiring low level heat. Any help is greatly appreciated James.
Hello, great video. I have an old Kay parlor guitar. The bridge was bolted down on top of the guitar's finish with no glue. It has lifted up and I have removed the bridge. I want to glue it down and re-bolt it. Is there a glue that will bond the wood bridge to the guitar's glossy finish, or should I remove the finish (fairly thick)? thanks for your help.
Hey, thank you for the great video! I am really curious though as to why you didn't remove the saddle, then you could have made a wider caul for that portion of the bridge, and it subsequently would have given more gluing pressure to the bridge. Keep'em coming thank you! Merry Christmas!
Great vid. I have a Guild D40 just like this one (1964 w/fan type bracing). Reglued the bridge years ago (prior to internet). Wish I’d been able to see this back then. 😊
I have a 12 string kawaii acoustic guitar that was left in a house to be cleaned , some moron cut the back bridge off along with some of the face of the guitar where the bridge goes how can it be fixed, I love the sound of 12 strings, any suggestions i would appreciate it. Thanks Daniel
I have to do this exact thing. I have a cheaper Ibanez acoustic. Looks like the same bridge. Those plugs for the strings are really hard to get out to change.. When I was at the store the guy looked at it and checked to see how level it was or something? Idk, but eventually I'd like to do this to get all the strings back on it.
Yes. It’s generally easier to place the cauls with out a saddle in a bridge however, this bridge has a through slot saddle which was already tall enough so we didn’t need to remove it for this job.
@@JamesHoodGuitar excellent video! Thanks for the info, trying decide whether or not my father's vintage guitar is worth repairing or purchasing another one, cheers!
Heat will soften the glue ! Heat up a thin putty knife and work it under the bridge if there is a place where it is already lifting ! If the bridge is on tight then a one inch square bar about 4 inchs long can be heated and set on the bridge to soften the glue ! If you have never done it then watch some other videos and see how it should be done !
Very helpful I'm a beginner guitar restoring guy . Thing is I glued my bridge on with my string on and didn't get an even amount of pressure on my bridge
I am no Luthier but spent twenty years in a custom cabinet shop and have glued up thousands of board feet of lumber for panels and such. I see many videos of this repair on TH-cam and most everyone goes really heavy on the glue. Squeeze out is what you want but too much glue is as bad as not enough. Is there something I am missing when it come to this kind of glue up?
Can you hear while playing the guitar if you’re bridge is glued on well? or if there are places with to much glue and not enough contact? Or doesn’t it impact the sound?
Since the guitar did not have an x-brace which made it difficult to position the clamp in the middle, would it have not been easier to move the two pegs to the holes for the D&G strings so you could position two clamps left and right of them? Just a thought.
That's a great idea. What made it difficult was the slope on the back side of the bridge. So that is why i had to shim the blocks up. This guitar does have an X brace as well.
I would never ever use hide glue no matter what everyone says ! Hide glue was the best thing to use in the day but the new glues are far superior to hide glue and a lot of guitars that have hide glue are very inconsistent and some will come apart very easy and some will almost never come apart or you will have to break it apart ! Just a good quality white caarpenters glue is all you need !
I have a bridge lift on my Alvarez Yairi DY88. Your video has been quite helpful. The problem with this guitar is that there is no sound hole. Do you or anyone else reading this have any idea how I can work around this?
thebohemiangroove I believe the back is flat on the dy88. You will need to use deep throat cam clamps between the back and the top of the bridge you are gluing on. Make sure to use a large caul or plate of some sort between the back and where your clamps make contact with the back so you don’t crack the back of your guitar. Feel free to call the shop and I can explain this to you in more detail.
matthew phillips yes we do use large blocks on the center clamps so the clamp body can clear the bracing and the pressure is spread out more evenly across the bridge plate and then we use thin blocks about 1/4” on the clamps for the wings so we don’t mark up the X bracing. 🗜
It's a good idea to scarify both surfaces. I use a 3/4 " chisel to scrape against the grain of the top to open up the grain a little, and run the bridge over some 100 grit a few passes, again, to give the glue something to hold on to.
The saddle should have been removed before he started ! The plastic bridge pins should have been taken out once the clamps wer on because good luck once they are covered with glue !
The original Tight bond wood glue is water soluble after it’s dry, so you could remove the bridge a lot easier later if you need to. I’ve heard it’s stronger than hide glue, so should not be a problem.
Yes. Should the fancy take you to engage in a game of cricket using your guitar as a bat and a basketball just for shits 'n giggles, you might find yourself of a split mind as to whether or not that was a good choice. On such days, I recommend reaching for a neck-thru-body design for added structural integrity.
Goof Off? That stuff is harsh, and the fumes are nasty. I'm pretty good with tricky gluing projects and cleaning with solvents, but with Goof Off I'd really worry about damaging the surrounding finish. Not to mention the loss of brain cells, I can't afford to lose too many more. Is there something gentler that'll soften the glue?
Wish I knew what kind of glue you used. I think I saw Titebond or something like that with a red top. Is that a glue that will soften with heat in case I mess up the first time? What other glues are used? I know of hyde glue. I heard that Gorrila urethane is good. How about a short video on the right and wrong glues to use. Anyway, thanks for this video. I think I'm ready for my first bridge repair on an old Lyra.
Hi Edward, Yes Red label tite bond is the glue I used for this bridge re-glue job. It will soften when heated. Just take your time, do your dry run. I prefer not to use gorilla glue and i will use hide glue in some of my repairs as well.
James Hood Guitar hi James I reglued a Taylor 214 ce bridge with Elmer wood glue . Is that glue ok? Several days after I encountered some gaps on the back side of the bridge. Do you recommend unglued and reglued again the bridge? Or just fill the gaps?
I would recommend fish glue or hide glue and certainly not as much. Also, why not remove the saddle before clamping? Seems like damage waiting to happen.
Fish glue - hide glue ? No way I would use it for any guitar ever and certainly not on my Martin ! They only used the hide glue back then because that is all they had to work with and it is no where as good as any white carpenters glue !
It always amazes me when people go overboard getting the bottom of the bridge perfectly flat! Y'all realize that the top of this steel string guitar is radiused don't you? Guild used a 30' radius when I was there!
No ! The area that has lifted is that way because the surface was lacking glue or it was not cleaned properly ! Glue does not bond well to old glue or old finish or any surface that is not cleaned properly ! If you have taken the bridge off and it pulled splinters off the top then you should try to glue the splinters back on where they came from ! Wood filler will not work if there is a big divet !
DDEENY The bridge pulled off the guitar completely. If a bridge is still on the guitar and starting to lift off the top, then I would have to hear the bridge up to remove it completely. When the bridge is heated with a heat blanket it warms up the glue that the saddle was glued in with. When this happens then I will remove the saddle and glue it back in after the bridge is reglued.
DDEENY sometimes the saddle comes loose while heating. On this one it stayed in the bride but yeah saddle out would make it easier. The heat blankets can be purchased from luthiers mercantile lmi.com make sure you make a timer. You can go to the hardware store and get a light timer or jacuzzi timer for this purpose.
Hi,i just saw this video today and the process you used seemed better than the other folks' method So I want to ask you a question,how do I fix the spot where the bridge is positioned on?My bridge lifted and I didn't noticed too soon then when I spotted the problem the body,where the pins are placed to are torn up,like bumped a little,like in the middle of the bridge position is bumped,can I just try to push it down a little so it'll be flattened then I'll glue it?
jb legend if any wood has torn out you can glue pieces of spruce in an gouge. If spruce or any wood has lifted from the top of the guitar under the bridge, you can work glue in under the lifted wood then put some wax paper over that with a caul clamped in place. Once this is dry you can remove the wax paper and scrape the surface where the wax paper was then clean it with naphtha. You want to make sure you have no wax residue on the bridge foot print prior to gluing the bridge back on. Hope this helps and gave you a few different options.
Anyone watching this thinking: 'I don't have all those clamps'? Well, there's a way to can glue on a bridge without clamps. You just need 2 bolts, 2 washers, 2 nuts and some bits of scrap wood. Here's how: Get a piece of strong but bendy ply 200mmx50mm place bridge in centre drill two holes through A&B holes on bridge. Use bolts to bolt the bridge down with the ply. When tight in centre of bridge (glue squeeze-out) bend up the ply ends and wedge wood under to press down bridge wings (glue squeeze-out here). When fully dry unscrew bolts (not pull) as glue will have formed a thread then drill out any glue in string holes.
Iazzaboyce in some situations I guess that method could work. I would want to make sure that there was enough pressure on the wings and use a 002 feeler gauge all the way around the bridge to make sure the gauge doesn’t penetrate under the bridge in any areas. Yes you want to see squeeze out however squeeze out doesn’t always equal good contact of the bridge to the top of the guitar. 🎸🤓
Yesterday I "sanded" the top layer of skin from the end of my right thumb on a belt sander. I love the belt sander and it was my fault, I got careless, so when I saw you without gloves I cringed...
@@JamesHoodGuitar Thank you James. It is minor, just irritating. I have myself to blame but I've learned my lesson...I think... How many times have you heard that?
I would say you need a new bridge because the one you have is already too thin and maybe someone else already planned it thiner instead of doing a neck reset ? If the guitar needed a neck reset then that is probably why they planned the bridge ! Some new guitars have the bridge glued right on the finish and glue on the finish will never last for long !The best way to get rid of the old glue on the bridge is to trace around the bridge with an exacto knife and score a line around the bridge without cutting into the top and then you know exactly how far to scrape the top and you will avoid having the wood fibres splintering the top ! In some cases it is wise to make the new bridge slightly bigger to hide any damage that has already been done ! I use a good wood glue like tightbond and I would never use hide glue or expoxy ever ! Before you stated you should have ckecked the intonation and looked for any loose or cracked braces and check for belly buldge ! Why did the bridge let go ? If you havent looked for what caused the problem in the first place as too what caused the problem it may do it again and all that work will have been been for nothing ! I would not have used a belt sander to clean the glue off the bottom of the bridge and in fact I think it needs to be replaced but only because I think it is too thin but I am not there with a tape measure to check anything ! Why did you not remove the saddle ? It looks like you might break the saddle when you tighten the clamps ! Sorry but I dont think you have enough experience to do the job from what I have seen !
James Hood Guitar hey james maybe you can tell me why Dave took the whole pickup out I took mine out of the saddle but why would unhook it Thanks in advance for anyone who wants to answer
Are you referring to doing a bridge reglue while the transducer wire is still running through the saddle slot into the guitar? I advise removing the transducer from the bridge actually. I am happy to give you some advice if you want to message me.
Don't leave those bridge pins in there, look at that glue all around them. That saddle shouldn't be there, troublesome. Nice job though, that bridge will never pull up.
You are wrong about it is plain stupid ! Yes they glue the bridge to the top because glue will not bond properly if there is a finish or old glue on the surface !
I know nothing about guitar repair but can appreciate this attention to detail. Fantastic.
I had a bridge lifting up at the low E end.
I didn't have money to buy clamps so I used a bolt the size of the string peg hole with two wide washers two rubber fender washers and a wing nut.
Shot some wood glue under the bridge tightened the wing nut.
It actually worked well..
Smart idea‼️😎👍
Wow i know it’s been a long time but that’s very clever! Thanks
I must have been watching way too many guitar repair videos. However, I'm glad I have. When this popped up in my feed it was quite a surprise to learn there was a luthier with my name out there. Nice work, and appropriate since I need to re-mount the bridge on my old Ventura. All the best from another James Hood 😁
Jim Hood Hi Jim! I have learned that there are many of us! Glad to be of some help 👍
Liked your video very much. Easy going common sense advice. Thank you for taking the time to produce it. Russ
When the glue has dried, did you able to pull out the bridge pins? There's even a squirt of glue on the pin when you finish clamping.
Amazing Thanks, but how many hours we need to wait to unclamp?
can you add another finish layer and glue the bridge to this added finsih layer instead of glue direct to wood?
Just a few things I noticed here. Every Guild dread I have ever seen or owned has “x” bracing. Thus in order to properly clamp a bridge, i have made a variety of inside clamping cauls so that I don’t damage the bracing, and also so the clamp doesn’t walk on me when the inside clamp point is different from the point on the bridge. Also, I have never seen a bridge reglued with the saddle in place. That just makes the job a lot harder to do. On all of the Guilds I have worked on, the bridges are not flat on the bottom but slightly curved, as are the tops. I had the misfortune of the clamps being able to pull the top to match a flat bottom bridge, which ends up looking like the top is bulging under the wings. I use a 6” machinists rule to shoot the bottom of a bridge and the top area to determine how much to relieve the bridge. It is way too easy to thin the bridge unevenly with a belt sander, and you cannot get the relief correct at all. On several of the neck resets I have done, (all of them actually) I had to make a new bridge because the bridge and saddle were already so thin, that there was no break angle left in the strings over the saddle. That is where I realized the there is a bottom curve on Guild bridges. Martins too. As thin as this bridge was and as low as the saddle was, it might be neck reset time. I know some customers don’t want to spend the money, but its the only way to really get the setup right. Interestingly, I learned most of this by experience, and by watching a ton of TH-cam videos from repair luthiers.
I appreciate your patience and skill in working on acoustics. I've got a 79' Applause Acoustic/Electric Guitar Bridge that I need to replace, but can't find a replacement for it. Any suggestions on where to get a bridge that would work? This one does not use Pins, but string holes in the side of the front edge of the bridge. This one of my first acoustics that I purchased brand new back in 1979 and really love this guitar. I thought getting a block of rosewood and trying to make one from scratch, but not sure that would work or not. Removing the old bridge is tedious and requiring low level heat. Any help is greatly appreciated James.
What a cool vibe you have and thank you for the vid!
Thanks for the compliment and your welcome!
@@JamesHoodGuitar Keep the videos coming, we appreciate it!
weren't the pegs glued into the holes.
how to remove them once glue sets?
Hello, great video. I have an old Kay parlor guitar. The bridge was bolted down on top of the guitar's finish with no glue. It has lifted up and I have removed the bridge. I want to glue it down and re-bolt it. Is there a glue that will bond the wood bridge to the guitar's glossy finish, or should I remove the finish (fairly thick)? thanks for your help.
Thanks for this. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Quick question..
Just wondering what is the best glue to use in your experience?
What about those bridge pins, are you removing them before the glue sets completly?
Hey, thank you for the great video! I am really curious though as to why you didn't remove the saddle, then you could have made a wider caul for that portion of the bridge, and it subsequently would have given more gluing pressure to the bridge. Keep'em coming thank you! Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the information.
Glad it helped! Thanks Jeremiah!
Great vid. I have a Guild D40 just like this one (1964 w/fan type bracing). Reglued the bridge years ago (prior to internet). Wish I’d been able to see this back then. 😊
Thanks! Is the bridge still on the guitar after all this time? :0)
That was awesome! I do pretty much everything you did. I do use a straw to help with clean up. If you pinch the end it makes a nice edge
steve beaver Yes a straw works great for glue clean up 👍
I have a 12 string kawaii acoustic guitar that was left in a house to be cleaned , some moron cut the back bridge off along with some of the face of the guitar where the bridge goes how can it be fixed, I love the sound of 12 strings, any suggestions i would appreciate it. Thanks Daniel
Daniel Eastland send some pics to james@jameshoodguitar.com and I can tell you more
@@JamesHoodGuitar ok James I will get a pic for you
What is your email address
I have to do this exact thing. I have a cheaper Ibanez acoustic. Looks like the same bridge. Those plugs for the strings are really hard to get out to change..
When I was at the store the guy looked at it and checked to see how level it was or something? Idk, but eventually I'd like to do this to get all the strings back on it.
Oh DAMN! Wish you had given me a warning before the SSSSCCCRRRAAAPPPPIIINNNGGG began!!!!! I had my headphones on!
So Sorry about that Ian.
It sounds worse in this video than it does in person.
What glue do i have to use?
Regular red label titebond is a good glue to use.
Would it be easier to seat the bridge for gluing without the saddle in place ? Cheers!
Yes. It’s generally easier to place the cauls with out a saddle in a bridge however, this bridge has a through slot saddle which was already tall enough so we didn’t need to remove it for this job.
@@JamesHoodGuitar excellent video! Thanks for the info, trying decide whether or not my father's vintage guitar is worth repairing or purchasing another one, cheers!
Are you against titebond 3 on this application?
Thanks James, nice video! I do have a question about clamping pressure. How do you know when you have the right pressure on the clamps?
I want to "remove" a bridge off a fender cd60 acoustic. What is the best way to get it off, without damaging the guitar body?
Thanks.
Heat will soften the glue ! Heat up a thin putty knife and work it under the bridge if there is a place where it is already lifting ! If the bridge is on tight then a one inch square bar about 4 inchs long can be heated and set on the bridge to soften the glue ! If you have never done it then watch some other videos and see how it should be done !
Wouldn't a Dremel tool work to get the glue off?
Very helpful I'm a beginner guitar restoring guy . Thing is I glued my bridge on with my string on and didn't get an even amount of pressure on my bridge
Thank you for sharing - perfect job
19:39 what is the liquid you used to clean the excess glue?
I think he used water
Yes, just water will clean up the squeeze out.
I am no Luthier but spent twenty years in a custom cabinet shop and have glued up thousands of board feet of lumber for panels and such. I see many videos of this repair on TH-cam and most everyone goes really heavy on the glue. Squeeze out is what you want but too much glue is as bad as not enough. Is there something I am missing when it come to this kind of glue up?
He did a lot of things wrong ! A toothbrush to clean off the glue ? A wet cloth before clamping and again once it is clamped and that is it !
Was the saddle glued in?
Can you hear while playing the guitar if you’re bridge is glued on well?
or if there are places with to much glue and not enough contact? Or doesn’t it impact the sound?
Can i use any wood glue?
We highly recommend using using Titebond red label original wood glue
I missed what type of glue you mentioned
Since the guitar did not have an x-brace which made it difficult to position the clamp in the middle, would it have not been easier to move the two pegs to the holes for the D&G strings so you could position two clamps left and right of them? Just a thought.
That's a great idea. What made it difficult was the slope on the back side of the bridge. So that is why i had to shim the blocks up. This guitar does have an X brace as well.
What grade of wood glue is that you use from Titebond? Is it professional Strength - Interior Use? Or anyone that knows the answer? Thanks 🙏
@Matt Hayden i already did my guitar using this video and it's been great! Almost a year and still tight
@Matt Hayden ohh my bad i didn't see the name.
@Matt Hayden wow very detailed. Thanks for your reply and for taking the moment to write.
@Matt Hayden I agree.
James...Is that a nylon brush and water you are using for clean-up?
Always thought repairs should be made with hide glue. Is this correct?
Sometimes we use hide glue and sometimes Titebond. Just an m16 nylon cleaning brush dipped in water to help clean up squeeze out yep.
I would never ever use hide glue no matter what everyone says ! Hide glue was the best thing to use in the day but the new glues are far superior to hide glue and a lot of guitars that have hide glue are very inconsistent and some will come apart very easy and some will almost never come apart or you will have to break it apart ! Just a good quality white caarpenters glue is all you need !
I would heat the glue with a spat. How can you match exactly to the top?
I have a bridge lift on my Alvarez Yairi DY88. Your video has been quite helpful. The problem with this guitar is that there is no sound hole. Do you or anyone else reading this have any idea how I can work around this?
thebohemiangroove I believe the back is flat on the dy88. You will need to use deep throat cam clamps between the back and the top of the bridge you are gluing on. Make sure to use a large caul or plate of some sort between the back and where your clamps make contact with the back so you don’t crack the back of your guitar. Feel free to call the shop and I can explain this to you in more detail.
@@JamesHoodGuitar Thanks so much for the reply. I really appreciate it. We'll see how it goes
Do you use any cauls on the underside of the bridge?
matthew phillips yes we do use large blocks on the center clamps so the clamp body can clear the bracing and the pressure is spread out more evenly across the bridge plate and then we use thin blocks about 1/4” on the clamps for the wings so we don’t mark up the X bracing. 🗜
Do you use cauls on the inside of the guitar tool? Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
He should have !
It's a good idea to scarify both surfaces. I use a 3/4 " chisel to scrape against the grain of the top to open up the grain a little, and run the bridge over some 100 grit a few passes, again, to give the glue something to hold on to.
guy saunders yes that is an option yep.
Thanks Harry! I thought about adding music over the body scraping but I didn't for some reason. I must be use to the nails on chalk board sound. ;-)
What’s the glue, is it transparent when it’s dry?
If the glue is wiped with a damp cloth after clamping you will not see any glue at all !
had someone glued the saddle in?
The saddle should have been removed before he started ! The plastic bridge pins should have been taken out once the clamps wer on because good luck once they are covered with glue !
9:26 when you left home and forgot to feed the dogs
Why didn't you use hot hide glue, or Franklin hide glue?
Why not use a dremel of something, with the right attachment not to damage it?
It's an option yes.
Why not remove the saddle?
Really cool. This Helped me a lot
What type of glue are you using? Thanks!
The original Tight bond wood glue is water soluble after it’s dry, so you could remove the bridge a lot easier later if you need to. I’ve heard it’s stronger than hide glue, so should not be a problem.
@@johnames5418 Hide glue is not a good product but at the time it was the best they had but Tightbond is the way to go !
I just did this and used the blade (flexible) to get under the glue and it was a lot quicker
a silly question , how stick and stable can a normally glued guitar neck be? can i damage it just by my hands using some force?
Yes. Should the fancy take you to engage in a game of cricket using your guitar as a bat and a basketball just for shits 'n giggles, you might find yourself of a split mind as to whether or not that was a good choice. On such days, I recommend reaching for a neck-thru-body design for added structural integrity.
Excellent Craftsmanship.
Do you still do videos*
How many days do you let it still??
I always just use a little goof off on glue. You gotta be real careful but it works well.
I do also. Apply it with a cheap artist brush.
Goof Off? That stuff is harsh, and the fumes are nasty. I'm pretty good with tricky gluing projects and cleaning with solvents, but with Goof Off I'd really worry about damaging the surrounding finish. Not to mention the loss of brain cells, I can't afford to lose too many more. Is there something gentler that'll soften the glue?
The perfect place to work at!
Wish I knew what kind of glue you used. I think I saw Titebond or something like that with a red top. Is that a glue that will soften with heat in case I mess up the first time? What other glues are used? I know of hyde glue. I heard that Gorrila urethane is good.
How about a short video on the right and wrong glues to use. Anyway, thanks for this video. I think I'm ready for my first bridge repair on an old Lyra.
Hi Edward, Yes Red label tite bond is the glue I used for this bridge re-glue job. It will soften when heated. Just take your time, do your dry run. I prefer not to use gorilla glue and i will use hide glue in some of my repairs as well.
Titebond Original. If you're using Titebond, stick with original, as the other variants tend to cold creep :D
James Hood Guitar hi James I reglued a Taylor 214 ce bridge with Elmer wood glue . Is that glue ok? Several days after I encountered some gaps on the back side of the bridge. Do you recommend unglued and reglued again the bridge? Or just fill the gaps?
Ha! 1000th subscriber!
Thank you very much for that!! We appreciate that very much!!
Why didn't you take the saddle out
Saddle didn’t need replacement so I left it in the bridge on this one.
I would recommend fish glue or hide glue and certainly not as much. Also, why not remove the saddle before clamping? Seems like damage waiting to happen.
Fish glue - hide glue ? No way I would use it for any guitar ever and certainly not on my Martin ! They only used the hide glue back then because that is all they had to work with and it is no where as good as any white carpenters glue !
It always amazes me when people go overboard getting the bottom of the bridge perfectly flat! Y'all realize that the top of this steel string guitar is radiused don't you? Guild used a 30' radius when I was there!
I've often wondered about that...seems all acoustics have a slight radius in the top.
Drying time?????
eagle49 24 hours is a good amount of time
Thanks, I don't have all of your great tools but I 'll rig something up. Nice craft to know my friend.
wow you used a wood glue, really? I guess it is a ready to use Hide glue but the ones that need heating up is the best..
Can I glue the bridge back on if the wood has been pulled off a bit ?
No ! The area that has lifted is that way because the surface was lacking glue or it was not cleaned properly ! Glue does not bond well to old glue or old finish or any surface that is not cleaned properly ! If you have taken the bridge off and it pulled splinters off the top then you should try to glue the splinters back on where they came from ! Wood filler will not work if there is a big divet !
That's cool!!
Glue name please
Lobo Rai Titebond Original. PVA glue. Sets in 30 minutes after clamp. Sets faster that Titebond III
I won't ask why the bridge saddle couldn't be removed to simplify the process. My understanding is that they're all removeable but maybe not.
DDEENY The bridge pulled off the guitar completely. If a bridge is still on the guitar and starting to lift off the top, then I would have to hear the bridge up to remove it completely. When the bridge is heated with a heat blanket it warms up the glue that the saddle was glued in with. When this happens then I will remove the saddle and glue it back in after the bridge is reglued.
Thank you. Question: What sort of heat blanket do you use to remove the bridge and how is it used? Thanks.
DDEENY sometimes the saddle comes loose while heating. On this one it stayed in the bride but yeah saddle out would make it easier. The heat blankets can be purchased from luthiers mercantile lmi.com make sure you make a timer. You can go to the hardware store and get a light timer or jacuzzi timer for this purpose.
Hi,i just saw this video today and the process you used seemed better than the other folks' method
So I want to ask you a question,how do I fix the spot where the bridge is positioned on?My bridge lifted and I didn't noticed too soon then when I spotted the problem the body,where the pins are placed to are torn up,like bumped a little,like in the middle of the bridge position is bumped,can I just try to push it down a little so it'll be flattened then I'll glue it?
jb legend if any wood has torn out you can glue pieces of spruce in an gouge. If spruce or any wood has lifted from the top of the guitar under the bridge, you can work glue in under the lifted wood then put some wax paper over that with a caul clamped in place. Once this is dry you can remove the wax paper and scrape the surface where the wax paper was then clean it with naphtha. You want to make sure you have no wax residue on the bridge foot print prior to gluing the bridge back on. Hope this helps and gave you a few different options.
At 1:10, my, what a restful sound!
Anyone watching this thinking: 'I don't have all those clamps'? Well, there's a way to can glue on a bridge without clamps. You just need 2 bolts, 2 washers, 2 nuts and some bits of scrap wood. Here's how: Get a piece of strong but bendy ply 200mmx50mm place bridge in centre drill two holes through A&B holes on bridge. Use bolts to bolt the bridge down with the ply. When tight in centre of bridge (glue squeeze-out) bend up the ply ends and wedge wood under to press down bridge wings (glue squeeze-out here). When fully dry unscrew bolts (not pull) as glue will have formed a thread then drill out any glue in string holes.
Iazzaboyce in some situations I guess that method could work. I would want to make sure that there was enough pressure on the wings and use a 002 feeler gauge all the way around the bridge to make sure the gauge doesn’t penetrate under the bridge in any areas. Yes you want to see squeeze out however squeeze out doesn’t always equal good contact of the bridge to the top of the guitar. 🎸🤓
I want mine fixed but it costs 100$!? Why is it so expensive?
Tom Rabbani wow! If your getting a bridge remove and Reglue for $100 and that’s it I would say take it! We start at $158
Yesterday I "sanded" the top layer of skin from the end of my right thumb on a belt sander. I love the belt sander and it was my fault, I got careless, so when I saw you without gloves I cringed...
So sorry to hear that you got hurt Rick.
@@JamesHoodGuitar Thank you James. It is minor, just irritating. I have myself to blame but I've learned my lesson...I think... How many times have you heard that?
Good shew mate!! Cheers! Gb
I would say you need a new bridge because the one you have is already too thin and maybe someone else already planned it thiner instead of doing a neck reset ? If the guitar needed a neck reset then that is probably why they planned the bridge ! Some new guitars have the bridge glued right on the finish and glue on the finish will never last for long !The best way to get rid of the old glue on the bridge is to trace around the bridge with an exacto knife and score a line around the bridge without cutting into the top and then you know exactly how far to scrape the top and you will avoid having the wood fibres splintering the top ! In some cases it is wise to make the new bridge slightly bigger to hide any damage that has already been done ! I use a good wood glue like tightbond and I would never use hide glue or expoxy ever ! Before you stated you should have ckecked the intonation and looked for any loose or cracked braces and check for belly buldge ! Why did the bridge let go ? If you havent looked for what caused the problem in the first place as too what caused the problem it may do it again and all that work will have been been for nothing ! I would not have used a belt sander to clean the glue off the bottom of the bridge and in fact I think it needs to be replaced but only because I think it is too thin but I am not there with a tape measure to check anything ! Why did you not remove the saddle ? It looks like you might break the saddle when you tighten the clamps ! Sorry but I dont think you have enough experience to do the job from what I have seen !
James I emailed you some pictures of the guitar
Daniel Eastland Thanks! I will check them out and get back to you soon.
Next time, try using a drinking straw to clean up the excess glue. You might be surprised at well it works!
I wanted to see him take the pegs out...I bet they were glued solid...he should have remove them after he clamped the bridge.
Lucky you I don’t even have a pattern on mine the idiots glued mine to the black finish then I got down to the glue
best to scrape that finish off the top of the guitar that is under the bridge foot print then glue the bridge into place.
James Hood Guitar hey james maybe you can tell me why Dave took the whole pickup out I took mine out of the saddle but why would unhook it Thanks in advance for anyone who wants to answer
Are you referring to doing a bridge reglue while the transducer wire is still running through the saddle slot into the guitar? I advise removing the transducer from the bridge actually. I am happy to give you some advice if you want to message me.
I've seen people use chopsticks instead of bridge pins to align the bridge. Just saying
will have to try that some time.
Guild make a nice guitar.
Don't leave those bridge pins in there, look at that glue all around them. That saddle shouldn't be there, troublesome. Nice job though, that bridge will never pull up.
Sorry man, World Class? I don’t know about all that.
I started with Woodglut plans.
how did it turn out?
@@JamesHoodGuitar That's pure awesomeness I think ;)
Dude! Fingernails on the chalkboard!!
could ya get anymore glue on, jeez.
That was a shitload of glue. I think you could’ve used half that amount and been fine.
The Glue was flowin heavy that day 😂
James Hood Guitar 😂
♍️🤘📐
I prefer to build with Woodglut plans.
I recommend Woodglut to every beginner and not only.
wrong glue!
Bob Wire yeah 🤦♂️ I realized I should have grabbed the Hyde glue🤭 but hey it will do the job still 👍🎸
So a pro luthier applies glue on the bridge bottom right over the spruce top of the guitar? That is beyond plain stupid!
You are wrong about it is plain stupid ! Yes they glue the bridge to the top because glue will not bond properly if there is a finish or old glue on the surface !
You sound like you don't enjoy your work.
David Higginbotham I was supper tired that day. Long days will do that to you.
I can accept that. Good work at any rate.
Your doing good stop nagging. Be professional.
If you remove the finish in some guitars this make small space so the bridge cannot sit direct to the wood what can you do to fill this gap with glue?
The finish should never be under the bridge and the bridge should be glued to the bare wood ! There is not reason to fill that gap !