Thanks Scott for taking the time to share your experience with acoustic bridge repair techniques. I've a 12 string whose bridge lifted while I was tuning and I needed to see something like this video before rolling up my sleeves and giving it a try.
GREAT video!! I just purchased a LAG of eBay and, of course, the seller neglected to mention that the bridge had separated from the body. I was bummed because it's a REALLY nice guitar otherwise. But now, I I think I can fix this myself thanks to your bid so THANKS FOR POSTING!!
A crack can be repaired with wood grain sealer and applied pressure. The wood will expand with the sealer and the pressure will then force the crack closed while it dries out. I've done this on body cracks but not tried it on matched bookend sound boards.
I just put a JDL guitar Doctor (the one where a hole is drilled) on an old Fender 12 string someone gave me... New strings= it sounds like a HARP!!! Very pleased with the results and sound...
I've now installed about six Bridge Dr's, (one in a 12ver)! I clone the original for around $5 ea., including 3/8" 16 socket set screw, that way my shop gets the bucks instead. Never had a complaint, about further "Bellying", or sound!
I take 2 pcs. of wall lath and measure over the bridge past the end of the guitar. I drill 2 holes on the ends. I buy a long threaded rod and cut it to depth size. I attach wing nuts (4) at each end of the rod. Turn the wing nuts and snug it up so it looks even or balanced. I take a plastic coffee can lid, fold it and put it inside the guitar. I get a wet sponge but not so much as it drips but as wet as it can be and I place it on the plastic lid and slide it under the bridge area inside. After a day, I snug each wing nut a little but not very much. In the evening I check the snugness and turn it again putting slight pressure. It's important not to go too fast. The next day I snug a little more and the same that evening. In time the belly will be coming down and I' check the sponge daily to make certain it's moist. If you have a hydrometer to place inside the guitar, I would check it but not let it go over 40. I keep repeating the process until the belly looks flat. I take an aluminum straight edge to check for bulging. When it is perfect I start releasing the pressure a little at a time with the wing nuts. If it starts to bulge again I snug it back and keep the sponge semi moist and when it drys I check it again. When I'm confident the bulge isn't coming back, I let it lay a few days. So, this will take care of the bulge. Most of a bulge comes from the top sinking in front of the bridge causing the bulge to lift.
Fascinating. It's really nice to see someone taking their time, working carefully and doing a good job for a change. Nice work. I've just concluded that my 3-year old Dean has dreadful belly bulge now, and the sound is poor too, so this is very interesting to watch.
You must have the same tooth split I do...I notice he whistle. I have no belly bulge, at least on the guitar, but I do have some humidity lift cracks in the facing behind the bridge. Any ideas on how to get rid of them?
Brilliant Scot thank you..I just bought a guitar with about the the same problems as yours..(never thought that was poss!..itching to see parts 2 and 3..can you send the the links pleeze!!..Cheers your'e awesome!
Thank You Scott for this series of videos covering this type of guitar repairs..I just purchased an Aria guitar for the grandson, it had one broken string so I would restring it when I got home, I discover that it has 4 broken tuners and a swelled belly. Since I have retired I've been buying some tools from Stewmac so I can tinkerer on the guitar I have. I've learned a lot from videos like yours on You Tube. You made a statement that some guitar belly swell in normal would you expand on that a bit? and did the JLD bridge doctor work on a belly swell beyond the bridge?
I'm wondering how I would do this on a classical guitar where the bridge has a finish on it. In other words it's not bare wood. A hot iron is going to melt off and damage the finish. Any ideas? Cover the bridge? I need to take the bridge of to reduce the string height as there is no truss rod. It's a 1975 Kiso Suzuki. Cheers.
I wouldn't worry about the finish on the bridge as it is simple to refinish a bridge once it's removed from the guitar. Just take it off and refinish it if needed before regluing it back on.
You'd think that after 100+ years of modern conventional acoustic guitar design, someone would've designed a guitar that DOESN'T do this. I have a 80s/90s Sigma guitar with the same issue. Shame. It's a really nice sounding guitar. Repairing it is more than it's worth.
What would u pay for one of these guitars that needs repairs? The one I'm looking at is missing the tuning pegs, bridge, truss rod cover, nut and saddle, and it has crack on side.
+Victor Jones I repair and build guitars. I show you the before and after in the video. You can clearly see it works. Why would I make a video if it did not work? I use it all the time and many reputable luthiers use this system. I didn't invent it. Google it......lol
U didn’t show anything🤷♂️ except the obvious bridge coming off and then removing that but I would think most of us understand that part , it’s the next that we want to see🤦♂️ that was frustrating
Thank you, I will have part three uploaded sometime tomorrow, in it I finish off this repair by installing a JDL bridge truss system. It not only will help fix a bellied top but will improve volume, tone and sustain of your guitar!
way too much time in pointing out details. for instance ... you showed the inside bridgeplate, which was obvious, and then moving the camera around showed it again identifying it again as the bridgeplate with a closeup. same with the bump etc. you do this all over this video and it's tiring! almost 15 minutes for this and it could have been shown in less than 10.
@@sli43 ... lots of things better but i make time to try to help others, like yourself, out, tho maybe after 6 years you've corrected the mistakes you made doing this video. :)
Thanks Scott for taking the time to share your experience with acoustic bridge repair techniques. I've a 12 string whose bridge lifted while I was tuning and I needed to see something like this video before rolling up my sleeves and giving it a try.
It's good to see the advantage of taking your time: a very clean separation of the bridge from the top.
I have a guitar that I wanted to do this the right way on, looks like a good place to start, Thank you Scott for showing me how it's done
GREAT video!! I just purchased a LAG of eBay and, of course, the seller neglected to mention that the bridge had separated from the body. I was bummed because it's a REALLY nice guitar otherwise. But now, I I think I can fix this myself thanks to your bid so THANKS FOR POSTING!!
A crack can be repaired with wood grain sealer and applied pressure. The wood will expand with the sealer and the pressure will then force the crack closed while it dries out. I've done this on body cracks but not tried it on matched bookend sound boards.
I just put a JDL guitar Doctor (the one where a hole is drilled) on an old Fender 12 string someone gave me... New strings= it sounds like a HARP!!! Very pleased with the results and sound...
I've now installed about six Bridge Dr's, (one in a 12ver)! I clone the original for around $5 ea., including 3/8" 16 socket set screw, that way my shop gets the bucks instead. Never had a complaint, about further "Bellying", or sound!
All three videos are very good, Great job and very informative!!
I take 2 pcs. of wall lath and measure over the bridge past the end of the guitar. I drill 2 holes on the ends. I buy a long threaded rod and cut it to depth size. I attach wing nuts (4) at each end of the rod. Turn the wing nuts and snug it up so it looks even or balanced. I take a plastic coffee can lid, fold it and put it inside the guitar. I get a wet sponge but not so much as it drips but as wet as it can be and I place it on the plastic lid and slide it under the bridge area inside. After a day, I snug each wing nut a little but not very much. In the evening I check the snugness and turn it again putting slight pressure. It's important not to go too fast. The next day I snug a little more and the same that evening. In time the belly will be coming down and I' check the sponge daily to make certain it's moist. If you have a hydrometer to place inside the guitar, I would check it but not let it go over 40. I keep repeating the process until the belly looks flat. I take an aluminum straight edge to check for bulging. When it is perfect I start releasing the pressure a little at a time with the wing nuts. If it starts to bulge again I snug it back and keep the sponge semi moist and when it drys I check it again. When I'm confident the bulge isn't coming back, I let it lay a few days. So, this will take care of the bulge. Most of a bulge comes from the top sinking in front of the bridge causing the bulge to lift.
Fascinating. It's really nice to see someone taking their time, working carefully and doing a good job for a change. Nice work. I've just concluded that my 3-year old Dean has dreadful belly bulge now, and the sound is poor too, so this is very interesting to watch.
This is a truly amazing video,, Scott -- I enjoyed watching you work on this poor guitar. So nice to see damaged guitars being saved.
I appreciate you watching and thank you for the kind words.
Scott - did I miss the part where you fixed the bulge?
Wouldnt some acetone help with the superglue on the wire?
You must have the same tooth split I do...I notice he whistle.
I have no belly bulge, at least on the guitar, but I do have some humidity lift cracks in the facing behind the bridge. Any ideas on how to get rid of them?
thank you Scott for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world god bless
thank you very much for sharing you skills with the world, more please!
I thought you said you were going to show how to fix the Belly Bow
He did. Look here: th-cam.com/video/QjNF_sW2t64/w-d-xo.html
@@eekamoose Labeling this "Part 1" would have solved a LOT of confusion !!!
Brilliant Scot thank you..I just bought a guitar with about the the same problems as yours..(never thought that was poss!..itching to see parts 2 and 3..can you send the the links pleeze!!..Cheers your'e awesome!
Here you are, Steve... had to search for it, myself... th-cam.com/video/QjNF_sW2t64/w-d-xo.html
A pleasure to watch you work with such care: your clients are very lucky.
Thank You Scott for this series of videos covering this type of guitar repairs..I just purchased an Aria guitar for the grandson, it had one broken string so I would restring it when I got home, I discover that it has 4 broken tuners and a swelled belly. Since I have retired I've been buying some tools from Stewmac so I can tinkerer on the guitar I have. I've learned a lot from videos like yours on You Tube. You made a statement that some guitar belly swell in normal would you expand on that a bit? and did the JLD bridge doctor work on a belly swell beyond the bridge?
Good job! I wonder if it would help to dip the flat wedge into boiling water every couple minutes.
good night, this piece after it is installed, gives difference in the sound of the instrument?
We got about a buck twenty of bulge here.
I'm wondering how I would do this on a classical guitar where the bridge has a finish on it. In other words it's not bare wood. A hot iron is going to melt off and damage the finish. Any ideas? Cover the bridge? I need to take the bridge of to reduce the string height as there is no truss rod. It's a 1975 Kiso Suzuki. Cheers.
I wouldn't worry about the finish on the bridge as it is simple to refinish a bridge once it's removed from the guitar. Just take it off and refinish it if needed before regluing it back on.
The peizo can be removed first as the wire goes straight through. Very interesting video.
That the first thing I would have done is remove the PU. and re-install after everything else is finished.
There ya go!!
What is the name of that tool that you use on the hotplate to heat up the glue under the bridge?
Stewmac sells it for $85 bucks, I made my own from Alum chunks I had for about $15---Stewie's is called the Bridge Heater and Fingerboard Iron .
I just de-solder the pickup wire, or some are just held by screws, or spring contact, then you don't have to either worry, or fuss with the pup wire.
You'd think that after 100+ years of modern conventional acoustic guitar design, someone would've designed a guitar that DOESN'T do this. I have a 80s/90s Sigma guitar with the same issue. Shame. It's a really nice sounding guitar. Repairing it is more than it's worth.
You can say many about Epiphone, but for sure they glue bridges with passion
My Epiphone has a bolt through the back of the bridge holding it in place. There is a pearl type plug to hide the head.
Scott, awesome video! Can you post a list of all the tools you used, and where to buy them from?
You can find all the tools at Stewart Macdonald or Luthiers Mercantile International.
Hi.
what is the proper temp. and his much buldge is acceptable?
Nice Job.
Sorry Scott but did I miss the belly bulge repair section here?
Hello Scott
How much do jobs like this cost?
EV
I have found a bridge lift and belly bulge (especially this severe) will render the guitar intonation impossible.
What would u pay for one of these guitars that needs repairs? The one I'm looking at is missing the tuning pegs, bridge, truss rod cover, nut and saddle, and it has crack on side.
Also no electronics
awwww...you don't get to see it go back on?
what type of glue do you use to glue the bridge down?
Titebond ORIGINAL is all I use.
I'm guessing that the string height made it pretty much unplayable.
Great vid.....
well done!!!
Thanks for watching!
i got the same problem on my guitar, thx man this video help me alot
great job thanks
It seems odd that you keep calling the bridge , the bridge plate. Two very different things! Let's be clear! The bridge came off nicely, though!
MASTERBUILT ?
I call the bridge doctor, the tone eliminator block.
we work
I enjoyed the video, other than you're whistling voice.
To 'theshyguitarist' - Not too shy to insult someone who's offering help!
***** You have a good voice. I hope you sing!
+Victor Jones I repair and build guitars. I show you the before and after in the video. You can clearly see it works. Why would I make a video if it did not work? I use it all the time and many reputable luthiers use this system. I didn't invent it. Google it......lol
Mahal
Super glue is bad for guitars! I've heard so many bad stories about it from my luthier.
Trust me, E P O X Y is THE worst!!!!
U didn’t show anything🤷♂️ except the obvious bridge coming off and then removing that but I would think most of us understand that part , it’s the next that we want to see🤦♂️ that was frustrating
Herbert from Family guy fixes guitars?
Nate T, I was just thinking the same thing. LOL
My dogs are going crazy
Sally sells seashells by seashore.
♍️📐🤘🕊️
Thank you, I will have part three uploaded sometime tomorrow, in it I finish off this repair by installing a JDL bridge truss system. It not only will help fix a bellied top but will improve volume, tone and sustain of your guitar!
Belly bulge is a result of the owner not giving the guitar enough of a workout.
way too much time in pointing out details. for instance ... you showed the inside bridgeplate, which was obvious, and then moving the camera around showed it again identifying it again as the bridgeplate with a closeup. same with the bump etc. you do this all over this video and it's tiring! almost 15 minutes for this and it could have been shown in less than 10.
Do you have nothing better to do with your valuable time?
@@sli43 ... lots of things better but i make time to try to help others, like yourself, out, tho maybe after 6 years you've corrected the mistakes you made doing this video. :)
Part 2 will be uploaded soon.
That guitar is awful young t have a belly.