Don’t Forget The Intake Boots Tear Due To The Handle insulators Going Bad 😀 I Work at a Stihl Dealer When They Were Still Selling The O20T and 200T’s And Now At a Stihl Dealer Again 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Great Tips
I have 3 200T's. Rebuilt 2 last winter, one with the accelerator pump carb and 1 with the non pump carb. Throttle response is a little quicker on the pump saw but not enough to make a difference in a tree.
Richard, in your next MS200T (or similar) rebuild or repair, can you show some views of what the innards look like when you're done. This one jumped from packed, oil soaked sawdust directly to the wood pile :)
Top video :) worth mentioning, the mityvac reads InHg in vacuum. 1 psi = 2 inhg, so when doing a vacuum test you need about 15-20 inHg which is the equivalent of 7.5-10 psi
Thanks Bro. Im in SC near Table Rock. I got Two Ms192. Trying to make one good one running. Ive been having similar issues. Im going to try a compression test like you did. Maybe learn more. Thanks
Richard, I am going to build the Farmertec 200T this month. It will be my Christmas present to me. You can bet it will be loaded with Stihl Ultra @50:1. I know they are complicated to build but I am not a novice building FT saws. It will be my 8th.
Finished one a few weeks ago. I like the crankcase castings. I believe that the tool and die makers and machinists who make the metal are spot on. This is where OEM plastic is nice because it drops into place better than the FT, although the FT is certainly serviceable. The side handle is a must have OEM part. I went thru several from FT and they are all the same ... way off at the lower AV mount. If you pull it into place you will destroy all 3 AV mounts soon IMHO. Mine looks like a Stihl but that beauty cost an extra $250 in OEM parts. Still maybe $500 for a "new 200T" isn't bad. Saber at 50:1 for this boy. Too many horror stories about the Ultra although I'm not convinced it's the oil's fault.
@@nheng6913 You're right. the plastics are "close" and can be very frustrating. The chain brake system is piss poor on the ones I've seen. The AV's are absolute junk. When you build these FT kits you're gonna need a handful of OEM parts to have some reliability. Most of the crankcases I've seen are pretty good and need little to no modifications.
thanks I just checked and the one i got has the little aluminum screen with those holes that need to be blocked. I saw that mentioned somewhere else. Does that whole cavity just need to be filled in? thanks for taking the time to share much appreciated
@@richardflagg3084 Amsoil support suggested avoiding the Dominator due to lack of corrosion inhibitors. The bike guys are always pulling things apart. I gave the quart to a kid next door for his bikes.
@@nheng6913 Project Farm did a corrosion test with dominator and it did pretty dang good. Interesting. I find that Dominator becomes a little sticky when I do tear downs. You'd be hard pressed to find a better small engine two stroke oil than Saber. Just my .02
I've heard you ask us several times if there is a saw topic(s) we would like you to cover. I've got a request. So a little frustration on my behalf especially with online communication when I try to explain the following to folks not educated in these matters particularly because I'm not a nationally recognized mechanic. What's the A B C cylinder designation and corresponding A B C pistons all about? What's the measurement progression between these steps. Which is bigger/smaller? Why are there different sizes? What is the minimum and maximum safe piston skirt to cylinder wall tolerances. What happens when the tolerances are exceeded? Why is the clearance measured at the piston skirt and not the crown? Why is there more wear in one part of the cylinder than another? What is ring end gap and at what part of the cylinder should it be measured? Why do piston skirts break and rings hang on ports? Is a bore gauge absolutely nessecary. Are there other ways to determine wear and cylinder size? What is piston slap? What causes it? I'll quit. You're a sharp guy. You understand where I'm coming from. If you can find time to do an inclusive video(s) about these topics I would love it. Then I'll send the skeptics a link to your video(s) for educational purposes and save myself a lot of wasted time. You appear to be a good teacher. Please teach. Should work out. Thanks in advance if you do this sometime in the future. Yeah, long winded.
I'm always in here asking dumb questions so here goes. Is there a carb conversion to eliminate the choke in filter setup for an 026? Just got a rippin old saw but she's rough to start.
There are many carbs that came on the 026's over the years. All of them rely on the filter to choke them. Most of them will eventually have issues with the low circuit. Cleaning and installing a new carb kit is usually a waste of time IMHO. The Walbro WT-194 is the preferred carb for the 026.
Best saws for climbers right here. They’re totally worth the money to rebuild them.
I have two I bought a few months ago don’t really use them but wanted to make sure I have them one day they be in high demand
Don’t Forget The Intake Boots Tear Due To The Handle insulators Going Bad 😀 I Work at a Stihl Dealer When They Were Still Selling The O20T and 200T’s And Now At a Stihl Dealer Again 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Great Tips
Thanks for all the tips and tricks of the 200T. I’m trying to find one for a reasonable price (aren’t we all) and this is really good info!!!
I have 3 200T's. Rebuilt 2 last winter, one with the accelerator pump carb and 1 with the non pump carb. Throttle response is a little quicker on the pump saw but not enough to make a difference in a tree.
With the number of saws you work on, it was nice to hear your support for the accelerator pump mod.
Rich what a great wealth of knowledge. I do rememner a few complaining about the idle, now I know why. 😙
Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍😋😄☺️🤗😘😚
Best videos out .on mechanical issues
Wow! Thank you
Nice save of a sweet little saw!
Richard, in your next MS200T (or similar) rebuild or repair, can you show some views of what the innards look like when you're done. This one jumped from packed, oil soaked sawdust directly to the wood pile :)
Nice video Richard. Great info!!
Top video :) worth mentioning, the mityvac reads InHg in vacuum. 1 psi = 2 inhg, so when doing a vacuum test you need about 15-20 inHg which is the equivalent of 7.5-10 psi
I pressure test carbs and fuel tanks to 7# with my mighty Vac.
Best climber saw ever made 020T and the 200T !
Thanks Bro. Im in SC near Table Rock. I got Two Ms192. Trying to make one good one running. Ive been having similar issues. Im going to try a compression test like you did. Maybe learn more. Thanks
Damn good little saws
I love the informative videos! Cutting cookies are getting old.
Richard, I am going to build the Farmertec 200T this month. It will be my Christmas present to me. You can bet it will be loaded with Stihl Ultra @50:1. I know they are complicated to build but I am not a novice building FT saws. It will be my 8th.
I've built some kit saws. They require a lot of patience. Some of the parts don't fit well, linkages don't move smoothly, wonkey carbs etc.
Finished one a few weeks ago. I like the crankcase castings. I believe that the tool and die makers and machinists who make the metal are spot on. This is where OEM plastic is nice because it drops into place better than the FT, although the FT is certainly serviceable. The side handle is a must have OEM part. I went thru several from FT and they are all the same ... way off at the lower AV mount. If you pull it into place you will destroy all 3 AV mounts soon IMHO. Mine looks like a Stihl but that beauty cost an extra $250 in OEM parts. Still maybe $500 for a "new 200T" isn't bad. Saber at 50:1 for this boy. Too many horror stories about the Ultra although I'm not convinced it's the oil's fault.
@@nheng6913 You're right. the plastics are "close" and can be very frustrating. The chain brake system is piss poor on the ones I've seen. The AV's are absolute junk. When you build these FT kits you're gonna need a handful of OEM parts to have some reliability. Most of the crankcases I've seen are pretty good and need little to no modifications.
thanks I just checked and the one i got has the little aluminum screen with those holes that need to be blocked. I saw that mentioned somewhere else. Does that whole cavity just need to be filled in? thanks for taking the time to share much appreciated
Richard, what oil and ratio were you using. I really enjoy your videos. You are a natural teacher. Keep up the good work.
Last of the Dominator 40:1 I had mixed up. I'm going to buy some VP Racing two stroke oil this week. Keep an eye out for that.
@@richardflagg3084 I only ran 10 gal of it but it was good oil.
@@richardflagg3084 Amsoil support suggested avoiding the Dominator due to lack of corrosion inhibitors. The bike guys are always pulling things apart. I gave the quart to a kid next door for his bikes.
@@nheng6913 Project Farm did a corrosion test with dominator and it did pretty dang good. Interesting. I find that Dominator becomes a little sticky when I do tear downs. You'd be hard pressed to find a better small engine two stroke oil than Saber. Just my .02
@@richardflagg3084 Thanks, I missed that part of his tests. Supertech will never enter this house. My wife already has vinegar if I need it.
Six pulls is what it takes me with a dry carb.
I've heard you ask us several times if there is a saw topic(s) we would like you to cover.
I've got a request.
So a little frustration on my behalf especially with online communication when I try to explain the following to folks not educated in these matters particularly because I'm not a nationally recognized mechanic.
What's the A B C cylinder designation and corresponding A B C pistons all about? What's the measurement progression between these steps.
Which is bigger/smaller? Why are there different sizes? What is the minimum and maximum safe piston skirt to cylinder wall tolerances. What happens when the tolerances are exceeded? Why is the clearance measured at the piston skirt and not the crown? Why is there more wear in one part of the cylinder than another? What is ring end gap and at what part of the cylinder should it be measured?
Why do piston skirts break and rings hang on ports?
Is a bore gauge absolutely nessecary. Are there other ways to determine wear and cylinder size? What is piston slap? What causes it?
I'll quit.
You're a sharp guy. You understand where I'm coming from.
If you can find time to do an inclusive video(s) about these topics I would love it.
Then I'll send the skeptics a link to your video(s) for educational purposes and save myself a lot of wasted time.
You appear to be a good teacher. Please teach. Should work out.
Thanks in advance if you do this sometime in the future.
Yeah, long winded.
What do you think about the ms 291 saws will they last if you use a good oil in them at 40.1 I have one so far so good
I thought that little tab with the sun on it that you can flip was something the night shift used 🌚
Hey Richard, what do you use to plug the intake boot for pressure and vac testing on these?
Stihl actually has a specialty tool (block). I just use the that yellow rubber cone. Works on a lot of different saws.
I'm always in here asking dumb questions so here goes. Is there a carb conversion to eliminate the choke in filter setup for an 026? Just got a rippin old saw but she's rough to start.
There are many carbs that came on the 026's over the years. All of them rely on the filter to choke them. Most of them will eventually have issues with the low circuit. Cleaning and installing a new carb kit is usually a waste of time IMHO. The Walbro WT-194 is the preferred carb for the 026.
I have searched high and low for one of those cones that you plug your intakes with,and can’t find one. Could you get a link by chance?
Actually a friend gave it to me. I have no idea where he got it. Next time I talk to him I'll ask
@@richardflagg3084 awesome thanks man
Nice informative video Rich. TY for sharing your knowledge.
So...? 🙂