Hi Great comments on the GR. I have just done a euro trip from Uk to Nice to Venice returning through Switzerland back to U.k. The GR was very good on motorways and B Roads (twisties) I have owned Porsches, BMW’s I would rate the GR up there with them. It would be a great purchase new or used. Mine is standard👍👍
Cheers Paul, what a beautiful trip you had, I was almost on your route both ways! Yes, I have had many high level cars too and it is a great driver’s machine!
Another great video mate, very informative and really valuable information for future buyers. I know it’s an extra cost and trust me I didn’t like paying it but I paint protection filmed my front bumper, bonnet, wings, lower sills and part quarters but also mirror caps. I’m at 10000miles and I’ve done numerous trackdays and the Nurburgring and no chips/marks at all.
Thankyou mate: you know, You are very right and did well to get protective film! I wasn’t offered it and didn’t think about it. And still I’m thinking if keeping the car as is or wrapping it in some way, but haven’t made my mind up yet! Soon I will have the minor chips repaired, to start with
Good advice. A few comments/corrections: stock front disks are 28mm and have wear limit of 25mm. Also change the oil in the transfer box when changing rear diff oil, this one also gets very hot. The front diff is in the gearbox oil, basically you can feel when it's time for a change... (long before scheduled service...)
Hard race rear camber and toe arms here over 25000km. Don't know where you get your information from but Hard Race here in Australia have not failed on any GR Yaris. Wiborg engineering also sell them along with Cusco. I would be careful making such statements as they are misleading.
@AJClubsport that is scary. Was a material test done on the arm? The race workshop that works on my car has hard race on multiple cars that get punished with no issues.
@@khamid1 It wasn't because no injuries occurred, we just span off at low speeds in a harpin bend. I personally inspected the arm afterwards, and the weld had not penetrated. I am a patented welder, from the times I owned AJClubsport and welded our racing cars. Probably it is an unlucky case, but this is why I would most prefer Japanese or European parts to Chinese.
Nice tips for potential buyers! I have noticed the gearbox takes a very long time to warm up (to 40C), specially in winter - up to 20 mins of driving (displayed on CanChecked). As I run TRD undertray in summer, it also takes quite some kms then. My first R_diff oil change was at 1kkm and the oil was black. Installed Cusco R_diff cover for more oil and change it every 5kkm, doesn't look that bad now when changed.
That is good to know, I didn’t know that the cusco diff cover actually made a difference with 200g more oil, but infact it is about 50% more! Thankyou!
Can tell everybody. Have 1 of the first cars come to Europe 2021 with the Japan GR RZ Mapping 1,6 bar boost with no modification 280 HP. If cold or hot outside the gearbox, never make any problems. I drive the foresight short shifter, same, same no problems. A little bit dangerous is when you shift very quick from gear 2 at 7000 rpm in gear 3 on bad streets. Can be you get the 1 Gear. Then don't open the clutch. Have GR owners they already killed the engine with 12.000 RPM. 3 times I had good luck with full concentration. But the fucking oil. In 3 years I can not understand, why toyota Europe is not customer and car friendly and offers a good racing oil in Standard Api/ SP, Ilsac GF 6 A. For the GR Supra you get everything also a good oil from gazzo racing, for the GR Yaris nothing.
@holgerstoll4682 I feel you about the oil, really! Happy to hear your gearbox is a very good one, can’t say the same for the majority of cars here. On the other hand, never once I had the issue of selecting the wrong gear, in any direction
AJ, you've mentioned differencials. It's a difficult topic that can easily go wrong when modifying. I would appreciate your take on LSDs, Drexler, Cusco, OS Giken etc. Maybe with a future video. Please.
Hello Lambros! Not easy to go wrong with the stock ones, but they mechanically wear if they stay with old oil or less oil than needed. Will look into the aftermarket differential experiences better, need to collect and verify more information before talking about it, but I will!
Hello, I noticed that you mentioned that the standard prescribed oil they use is the same as for the hybrid cars and less performante for what the car’s possibilities are. So I have 2 questions: 1) Which oil and brand do you suggest? 2) Can the change of oil type has his influence on the manufacturer’s warranty? 3) Can I ask the Toyota dealer to provide the suggested oil for my car? Great channel🔝👌 Kind Regards, Dirk (Belgium)
Hello Dirk, thankyou for reaching out! Please check my video playlist, as there is a full video only on lubricants, where you will find answers to all your questions
Before buying a modified GR you need to consider Toyota attitude towards voiding the warranty of the engine especially with regard to “chipping” and also any extra cost with insurance. There is also the potential of a hard life on the track. I am not saying don’t buy, just do your research
I have the same issue on the mirrors! They told me its because of pressure washing and asked me to pay 300+, no way... It's definitely a warranty deal, do let me know if you manage with them!
What Oil change intervalls,(motor, diff,gearbox) would you recommend for spirited Drivers on Streets? Looking forward to more Videos.👍🏻 Currently driving a 328i e36 lightly modded thinking to sell for a GR?🤔 Your thougts? Grazie✌🏻
My thoughts about a GR versus your current car is that it will be like getting onto a starship! About the lubricants, I have made a long video you can find here in the channel, please view it and let me know if you have more questions!
Hi, I have one question on which I read conflicting statements in the forums. Which drive mode (Normal, Sport or Track) is the most preserving for the rear diff, clutch pack, etc causing the least amount of wear/stress on the components? Thank you!
It’s different because the load on the transmission requires to slightly accompany more with the clutch. It is clear driving the car, even more on the Evos and Subarus
@@AJClubsport Okay...so I should be mindful of smooth shifts by utilizing the clutch more, gotcha. I believe I did so instinctively yesterday when I picked her up. Wow, what a car man. I followed all your motor break-in advice! I was the only guy on the autobahn going from 200 to engine-breaking to 80. Stayed under 5k rpms 98% of the time, accidentally went to 6k overtaking on a country road once. What a rush. 😂😂😂
Foresights, Forge and Airtec only reduce "vertical" throw I believe, while CAE and similar reduce horizontal (left-right) throw as well, so careful with misshifts if running OEM mounts. I have Foresight because they said it only reduces throw by 30%, less than other aftermarket ones. But it feels more like 50% reduced throw.
@markos8400 yes Markos, exactly as you say. Fact is that the more you reduce lateral throw, easier it is to select the wrong gear. I may even take the short shifter off mine!
Hi Great comments on the GR. I have just done a euro trip from Uk to Nice to Venice returning through Switzerland back to U.k. The GR was very good on motorways and B Roads (twisties) I have owned Porsches, BMW’s I would rate the GR up there with them. It would be a great purchase new or used. Mine is standard👍👍
Cheers Paul, what a beautiful trip you had, I was almost on your route both ways! Yes, I have had many high level cars too and it is a great driver’s machine!
Another great video mate, very informative and really valuable information for future buyers. I know it’s an extra cost and trust me I didn’t like paying it but I paint protection filmed my front bumper, bonnet, wings, lower sills and part quarters but also mirror caps. I’m at 10000miles and I’ve done numerous trackdays and the Nurburgring and no chips/marks at all.
Thankyou mate: you know, You are very right and did well to get protective film! I wasn’t offered it and didn’t think about it. And still I’m thinking if keeping the car as is or wrapping it in some way, but haven’t made my mind up yet! Soon I will have the minor chips repaired, to start with
@@AJClubsport Xperl 🤓
Good advice. A few comments/corrections: stock front disks are 28mm and have wear limit of 25mm. Also change the oil in the transfer box when changing rear diff oil, this one also gets very hot. The front diff is in the gearbox oil, basically you can feel when it's time for a change... (long before scheduled service...)
Very correct, thankyou: it’s difficult when you’re filming in the open without lists, because although you know, sometimes the flow goes as it does 💪🏼
Hard race rear camber and toe arms here over 25000km. Don't know where you get your information from but Hard Race here in Australia have not failed on any GR Yaris. Wiborg engineering also sell them along with Cusco. I would be careful making such statements as they are misleading.
I was driving shotgun in a car that broke mate, this is first hand experience
@AJClubsport that is scary. Was a material test done on the arm? The race workshop that works on my car has hard race on multiple cars that get punished with no issues.
@@khamid1 It wasn't because no injuries occurred, we just span off at low speeds in a harpin bend. I personally inspected the arm afterwards, and the weld had not penetrated. I am a patented welder, from the times I owned AJClubsport and welded our racing cars. Probably it is an unlucky case, but this is why I would most prefer Japanese or European parts to Chinese.
Great insight as always. Hoping to pick up a GR soon so all your advice is very helpfull.
My pleasure, thankyou for reaching out!
Again great video and info for prospective future buyers of the Gen1 👍
Regards Russ..
Thankyou Russ 🙏👍👌
Nice tips for potential buyers!
I have noticed the gearbox takes a very long time to warm up (to 40C), specially in winter - up to 20 mins of driving (displayed on CanChecked). As I run TRD undertray in summer, it also takes quite some kms then.
My first R_diff oil change was at 1kkm and the oil was black. Installed Cusco R_diff cover for more oil and change it every 5kkm, doesn't look that bad now when changed.
That is good to know, I didn’t know that the cusco diff cover actually made a difference with 200g more oil, but infact it is about 50% more! Thankyou!
@@AJClubsport My R_diff vent maybe also helps in preserving oil quality by keeping temp down.
Yes, but I believe that the only definitive fix is the HEL Performance diff cooler fit
Can tell everybody. Have 1 of the first cars come to Europe 2021 with the Japan GR RZ Mapping 1,6 bar boost with no modification 280 HP. If cold or hot outside the gearbox, never make any problems. I drive the foresight short shifter, same, same no problems. A little bit dangerous is when you shift very quick from gear 2 at 7000 rpm in gear 3 on bad streets. Can be you get the 1 Gear. Then don't open the clutch. Have GR owners they already killed the engine with 12.000 RPM. 3 times I had good luck with full concentration.
But the fucking oil. In 3 years I can not understand, why toyota Europe is not customer and car friendly and offers a good racing oil in Standard Api/ SP, Ilsac GF 6 A. For the GR Supra you get everything also a good oil from gazzo racing, for the GR Yaris nothing.
@holgerstoll4682 I feel you about the oil, really! Happy to hear your gearbox is a very good one, can’t say the same for the majority of cars here. On the other hand, never once I had the issue of selecting the wrong gear, in any direction
AJ, you've mentioned differencials. It's a difficult topic that can easily go wrong when modifying. I would appreciate your take on LSDs, Drexler, Cusco, OS Giken etc. Maybe with a future video. Please.
Hello Lambros!
Not easy to go wrong with the stock ones, but they mechanically wear if they stay with old oil or less oil than needed.
Will look into the aftermarket differential experiences better, need to collect and verify more information before talking about it, but I will!
ATS Carbon 👌🏽
Excellent video again AJ! But I'm never selling mine lol !
That is a wise choice mate! Cheers
Hello, I noticed that you mentioned that the standard prescribed oil they use is the same as for the hybrid cars and less performante for what the car’s possibilities are.
So I have 2 questions:
1) Which oil and brand do you suggest?
2) Can the change of oil type has his influence on the manufacturer’s warranty?
3) Can I ask the Toyota dealer to provide the suggested oil for my car?
Great channel🔝👌
Kind Regards, Dirk (Belgium)
Hello Dirk, thankyou for reaching out! Please check my video playlist, as there is a full video only on lubricants, where you will find answers to all your questions
Ravenol
Before buying a modified GR you need to consider Toyota attitude towards voiding the warranty of the engine especially with regard to “chipping” and also any extra cost with insurance. There is also the potential of a hard life on the track. I am not saying don’t buy, just do your research
Yes of course: in my opinion these aren’t really problems for this audience, that will modify the car anyways…
I have the same issue on the mirrors! They told me its because of pressure washing and asked me to pay 300+, no way... It's definitely a warranty deal, do let me know if you manage with them!
I will mate, write me an email, so I remember: adriano.piras1@gmail.com
That was great insight. Thanks
You are very welcome, thankyou for watching, please subscribe for more!
What Oil change intervalls,(motor, diff,gearbox) would you recommend for spirited Drivers on Streets?
Looking forward to more Videos.👍🏻
Currently driving a 328i e36 lightly modded thinking to sell for a GR?🤔 Your thougts?
Grazie✌🏻
My thoughts about a GR versus your current car is that it will be like getting onto a starship!
About the lubricants, I have made a long video you can find here in the channel, please view it and let me know if you have more questions!
@AJClubsport what do you mean is the correct using for the 4 wheel drive system? I only do no full power starts from 0 with my evo before ....
No launches is a very important thing for the transmission’s life, as is the clutch use/timing
Basically, don't bother unless you want an automatic gearbox.
Yes mate, or an aftermarket sequential box, this is the bottom line!
Hi, I have one question on which I read conflicting statements in the forums. Which drive mode (Normal, Sport or Track) is the most preserving for the rear diff, clutch pack, etc causing the least amount of wear/stress on the components?
Thank you!
Hello, I wouldn’t really mind too badly about that, but Sport allows the least slip
@@AJClubsport thank you for the confirmation, I like the steering feel the most in Sport so this will be my new default mode 😉
Thank you!
I personally use track most of the time, but it’s down to car setup and personal preference, enjoy!
Do you think it is something different between early gen1 and say gen 1 2024? Some improves ex.
Yes, as in all cars, they do fix things in time, but if the early car works well, they should be the same!
Thanks
No problem
Oh dear, how is shifting for awd cars different? 😱😱😱
It’s different because the load on the transmission requires to slightly accompany more with the clutch. It is clear driving the car, even more on the Evos and Subarus
@@AJClubsport Okay...so I should be mindful of smooth shifts by utilizing the clutch more, gotcha. I believe I did so instinctively yesterday when I picked her up. Wow, what a car man. I followed all your motor break-in advice! I was the only guy on the autobahn going from 200 to engine-breaking to 80. Stayed under 5k rpms 98% of the time, accidentally went to 6k overtaking on a country road once. What a rush. 😂😂😂
@SasanSB12 well done mate, this will help running in your piston rings!
What do you think about short shifters? I’ve been looking at the coolerworx interior but have just ordered the Forge motorsport linkage clamp..
Hello mate! I have a short shifter installed: it does reduce throw a lot, but it also makes the lever much harder to operate
@@AJClubsport which did you go for?
@@EdrisDOT I went for the Airtec one, but haven’t tested any others to date
Foresights, Forge and Airtec only reduce "vertical" throw I believe, while CAE and similar reduce horizontal (left-right) throw as well, so careful with misshifts if running OEM mounts. I have Foresight because they said it only reduces throw by 30%, less than other aftermarket ones. But it feels more like 50% reduced throw.
@markos8400 yes Markos, exactly as you say. Fact is that the more you reduce lateral throw, easier it is to select the wrong gear. I may even take the short shifter off mine!
Those hood vents are hideous.
Rally 2 versions look better.
I respect your opinion!
Cheers