i have a very similar EATON motor and appreciate much the refresh on the strange terminal connection, to rotational direction relationship. that motor was originally from my first ever electric car conversion on my old sunfire, that i no doubt did immediately after watching your original geo conversion conference talks like 8 years ago! i was like "FORKLIFTS AND JETENGINE STARTING MOTORS!! GOT IT! LOL Thank you for helping me get started, in one of my life's greatest passions NELSON SENPAI !!!
I agree with keeping the radiator on the tractor. Not only for looks but gives you the option of having either a cooler for another motor later on or a hydraulic cooler on the low pressure side if it needs to do much front loader work.
If I used something like Chevy Volt batteries, they already have coolant tubes/fins in them. I could use the radiator for cooling the batteries in the summer. In the winter, I could use the same coolant and a heater to keep them warm.
I am really enjoying watching this project. I want to build something similar one day. I think that is a good layout for the pump. Hydraulic pumps like being lower than the supply tank. A hydraulic shop could likely cut and add fittings to the end of the hard lines you have. This would allow you to have much shorter hoses.
So a counter clock wise motor will spin a pump clockwise ? I kept looking for a clockwise motor for my pump but can't find one,🤤 now I know why. Thanks!
Hi Ben, your channel is one of the few that encouraged me to make a conversion in Nigeria back in 2109.i want to ask few questions. 1. Is the traction of the tractor also hydraulic or a direct drive by the motor. 2. What will you suggest if I am using a pump motor for my ev Conversion. Should I hook it up with a traction controller or a pump controller. PLEASE tell me what you think the difference is. Thanks ben
The pump is only for the hydraulics on the tractor. That's to raise and lower the 3 point hitch on the back, and to operate the front end loader when it is reinstalled. The wheels of the tractor will be powered by a separate electric drive motor. I don't have experience with electric pump motor controllers. I would use a motor controller designed for drive systems. Most of the pump motors that I have seen do NOT have a drive-shaft. You CAN still use one for an electric car conversion, but you will have to build a "stub-shaft" that mounts into the motor and is supported by bearings. That was done on the Forkenswift project. ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-car-conversion-project-forkenswift-33.html
It's probably less than ideal, but I just wanted to do a flow test, make sure I had all the ins and outs right, and learn anything else I might be thinking. After the test, I dried and oiled the pump.
keep the hard line and weld a fitting on the other side. cut the tube it would look cool with the hard lines. or make an adapter on the side at the front and then short hose.
It's a surprise to see that tractors didn't change much in 40 years across the world except they got bigger. I've 20 yrs old tractor in India which looks almost identical to this one, ofcourse without cosmetics.
Heck yeah bud!! its looking awesome! What do you think about NiMh prius packs!? you got the room for it and a tractors gotta have just super robust abuse tolerant chemistry that self heats and doesn't mind the cold, dont need a bms, CAN be charged in parallel if you just charge at 1/10 C? food for thought
I'm leaning towards used electric car batteries. Cell modules like those from a Volt already have cooling channels built-in. Those could be used for warming the batteries in the winter.
How many hours of working wise for the batteries do you expect to fit in, its a shame you can't fit the leaf set up in as it's the charge control as well. It's a cool project and glad to see it back 👍
I just plan to cram as many batteries in there as physically fit. What the working time of the tractor will be is so dependent on what the task is. Not really any way to know that until we try it!
Edit: Okay sorry, you were testing flow rate. Never mind. No need to do this water test to see flow direction. These are positive displacement pumps so they'll move air just fine. Put your finger over the port while it's slowly spinning and you'll know if you've got suction or pressure right away
Don't use sand paper to clean the Commutator surface, Use crocus cloth .The abrasive from all sand papers contaminates the commutators leading to early brush failure. Federal Specification P-C-458 described this material in detail, although the specification was cancelled in 1989
Unless you are trying to save those hydraulic hard lines, I don't see why you want to go through the effort of machining a block to fit. I would think it is easier just to cut the hard lines off of that block, machine face it, or use a sander to level it out, and then thread it for an NPT nipple.
I'd like to leave those pipes stock and try to sell them to a collector or restorer of the same model tractor. If machining a new piece to mount to the tractor for the hydraulics proves to be too challenging, I can always fall back on modifying the original hard lines.
If the intention is to use this as an actual tractor ever again, do not let the placement of that pump or any critical lines go below the frame rails. Just don't. Really, don't. Seriously... Don't
i have a very similar EATON motor and appreciate much the refresh on the strange terminal connection, to rotational direction relationship. that motor was originally from my first ever electric car conversion on my old sunfire, that i no doubt did immediately after watching your original geo conversion conference talks like 8 years ago! i was like "FORKLIFTS AND JETENGINE STARTING MOTORS!! GOT IT! LOL Thank you for helping me get started, in one of my life's greatest passions NELSON SENPAI !!!
I agree with keeping the radiator on the tractor. Not only for looks but gives you the option of having either a cooler for another motor later on or a hydraulic cooler on the low pressure side if it needs to do much front loader work.
If I used something like Chevy Volt batteries, they already have coolant tubes/fins in them. I could use the radiator for cooling the batteries in the summer.
In the winter, I could use the same coolant and a heater to keep them warm.
I am really enjoying watching this project. I want to build something similar one day.
I think that is a good layout for the pump. Hydraulic pumps like being lower than the supply tank. A hydraulic shop could likely cut and add fittings to the end of the hard lines you have. This would allow you to have much shorter hoses.
It would be nice if you would explain the why of the connection not just where the power goes when it comes in. thanks
So a counter clock wise motor will spin a pump clockwise ?
I kept looking for a clockwise motor for my pump but can't find one,🤤
now I know why.
Thanks!
Came from our Off Grid page. Sub’d! Looking forward to seeing more👍🏻
Try using flareless fittings also called compression fitting for the hydraulic lines.
Hi Ben, your channel is one of the few that encouraged me to make a conversion in Nigeria back in 2109.i want to ask few questions.
1. Is the traction of the tractor also hydraulic or a direct drive by the motor.
2. What will you suggest if I am using a pump motor for my ev Conversion. Should I hook it up with a traction controller or a pump controller.
PLEASE tell me what you think the difference is.
Thanks ben
The pump is only for the hydraulics on the tractor. That's to raise and lower the 3 point hitch on the back, and to operate the front end loader when it is reinstalled.
The wheels of the tractor will be powered by a separate electric drive motor.
I don't have experience with electric pump motor controllers. I would use a motor controller designed for drive systems.
Most of the pump motors that I have seen do NOT have a drive-shaft. You CAN still use one for an electric car conversion, but you will have to build a "stub-shaft" that mounts into the motor and is supported by bearings.
That was done on the Forkenswift project.
ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-car-conversion-project-forkenswift-33.html
I like this design... separate hydraulic motor. Maybe you can control it variable speed off of pressure to save energy?
Your right about the pump the red hose is the imput
Is running water through a pump meant for oil a good idea? I imagine the pump needs it to be oil to lubricate the pump internals.
It's probably less than ideal, but I just wanted to do a flow test, make sure I had all the ins and outs right, and learn anything else I might be thinking. After the test, I dried and oiled the pump.
keep the hard line and weld a fitting on the other side. cut the tube it would look cool with the hard lines. or make an adapter on the side at the front and then short hose.
It's a surprise to see that tractors didn't change much in 40 years across the world except they got bigger. I've 20 yrs old tractor in India which looks almost identical to this one, ofcourse without cosmetics.
Why two forklift motor..
Is that two motors connected to transmission..?
Or each one is for different purposes
This motor pumps hydraulic fluid. The other one drives the wheels and the Power Take off. Two motors like this is very common on electric forklifts.
Just use the old line and make a adapter for the other end
Heck yeah bud!! its looking awesome! What do you think about NiMh prius packs!? you got the room for it and a tractors gotta have just super robust abuse tolerant chemistry that self heats and doesn't mind the cold, dont need a bms, CAN be charged in parallel if you just charge at 1/10 C? food for thought
I'm leaning towards used electric car batteries. Cell modules like those from a Volt already have cooling channels built-in. Those could be used for warming the batteries in the winter.
How many hours of working wise for the batteries do you expect to fit in, its a shame you can't fit the leaf set up in as it's the charge control as well. It's a cool project and glad to see it back 👍
I just plan to cram as many batteries in there as physically fit. What the working time of the tractor will be is so dependent on what the task is. Not really any way to know that until we try it!
@@BenjaminNelsonX fair enough good answer, like how long the string, are you still looking to use leaf batteries or build your own packs.
Edit: Okay sorry, you were testing flow rate. Never mind.
No need to do this water test to see flow direction. These are positive displacement pumps so they'll move air just fine. Put your finger over the port while it's slowly spinning and you'll know if you've got suction or pressure right away
Don't use sand paper to clean the Commutator surface, Use crocus cloth .The abrasive from all sand papers contaminates the commutators leading to early brush failure.
Federal Specification P-C-458 described this material in detail, although the specification was cancelled in 1989
Clever project.
Unless you are trying to save those hydraulic hard lines, I don't see why you want to go through the effort of machining a block to fit. I would think it is easier just to cut the hard lines off of that block, machine face it, or use a sander to level it out, and then thread it for an NPT nipple.
For the hydraulic pipes, why not just chop the two red pipes off and tap the existing metal block for your lines to screw in to.
I'd like to leave those pipes stock and try to sell them to a collector or restorer of the same model tractor.
If machining a new piece to mount to the tractor for the hydraulics proves to be too challenging, I can always fall back on modifying the original hard lines.
If the intention is to use this as an actual tractor ever again, do not let the placement of that pump or any critical lines go below the frame rails. Just don't. Really, don't. Seriously... Don't
You need fan for hot 🔥 hydraulic pump oil 🛢 😂😂😂 to makes cooler