Run a battery with a inverter to run the LED lights when not connected to a land line. Similar to a Rv setup. Dual 6 volts will give a additional run time compared to a 12 volt battery Hope this helps and beautiful trailer
Step 1: NEVER custom order your first enclosed trailer. Step 2: Buy a used enclosed trailer as your first unit. Live with it for a few seasons. You’ll know everything you want in your first “real” enclosed. Step 3: Now that you know what you want and how you’re going to use the rig, custom order. Good conversation on GVWR and GCWR, however, in many states when you get past 9990 lbs. you run into a slew of licensing/register issues. Every season you should scale your rig, because it’s amazing how much extra crap (weight) creeps in over time. Lights: You can never have enough. Outlets: See also, “lights.” Unpossible to have too many, both inside and out. HVAC: You want it. Man Doors: A waste of time and an additional place for leaks.
Very nice trailer, All good points, remember, if one chooses the extra height option it adds aero drag and will hurt fuel mileage, if you don't need it keep it low.. I also should have got the RV door option, but did not. I did however add E-track and plan to add more, great stuff, also a small winch inside the trailer to help load and unload, it's a huge help when loading/unloading alone. I run12v LED lighting inside and outside, at the ramp, side door and tongue. then an inverter for 120V inside.
I ordered basically the same trailer, blank interior with 5200lb axles! My wife and I customized the inside ourselves, with Diamond plate gray vinyl flooring, half walls carpeted and painted and LED lighting above! Our beaver tail lays flat down to the ground surface though. We painted it with anti slip deck paint. I have 120VAC configed using my Honda EU200OI placed on the front front frame rails! It was purchased to Haul our 1969 Plymouth Barracuda 383 Formula "S" around the USA to shows! We are Veteran Camper owners and have a good sense of what we need! And yes I mounted my E-track myself after measuring my requirements, with all bolts through frame rails!
I have a 24' enclosed with just lights and a spare tire. No cabinets as it's only for carrying my car. I also have Race Ramps and love them. My car sits super low and they work great. Very nice trailer, by the way!
Nice trailer JB. I have a battery system connected to a solar panel on top of mine. Great for running air compressors, lights, chargers etc. if you’ve got any electrical skills it’s worth doing. It makes it fully self sufficient for power.
Yeah, my first trailer was all optioned out and i bought it a year old. My trailer now wasn't so much.. i had to add the generator and I painted the ramp door myself with shop floor paint and a non slip additive which didn't make it any heavier... it's wired for dual A/C's but think about what you said about weight has me thinking, i can always sell them if I decide not to install them. Good video..👍
That is a nice trailer brother. The trailer will haul your car and give you a garage for it which is why you wanted it and with the weather you have to deal with I sure understand. The down side it just most likely will not give the ability to move the stuff from you storage to your trailer. You'll most likely have to wait until you sell the hot rod. Thanks for sharing the information and the suggestions JB.
Hey Ric! I agree, I may have to put my tool box and a few other heavy items in our crate storage and if I get a lighter car in the future, I can gain more capacity . Thanks for sharing 👍🏾
I really enjoy your videos! Very informative! Your trailer is fantastic! I went on a trailer buying binge a few years ago. I purchased a gooseneck power-tilt deck-over flatbed 14K trailer and also a 10K gravity-tilt equipment trailer for vehicles and equipment I use on my farm, and finally, a 3K gravity tilt flatbed for lighter work. I also bought a 6x12 v-nosed aluminum-framed cargo trailer. I SO agree with you on taking time to research your options! On each of my trailer purchases, I spent months, literally, researching the virtues and vices of suspension choices (tandem vs single axle, torsion vs leaf, etc.) and GVWR/licensing considerations, frame and structure material choices and finishes, frame crossmember spacing, brake options, winch options, and trailer brand reputations. The little cargo trailer involved similar variables, but was even more entertaining, with door and ramp choices, window considerations, lighting and electrical, venting, tie-down, and insulation/sidewall/flooring considerations. Now, I am toying with the idea of an enclosed car hauler, too. And then, there is always that fifth-wheel RV lingering in the back of my mind. I notice that your trailer is steel-framed. Did you consider purchasing an aluminum-framed unit in your decision making process? Just curious on your thoughts of steel vs aluminum.
Great info and you definitely have bought/used all kinds of trailers! I chose steel because of price and I heard that aluminum trailers don’t tow well because of how lightweight they are. I also have a 1 ton diesel so the extra weight goes unnoticed lol
@@JB_WhoWork You did well, particularly with buying the 1-ton. I made the all-to-frequent mistake of buying a new Duramax 2500 in 2016, and I didn't anticipate how little payload capacity would be available for potentially hauling a fifth wheel travel trailer in a 3/4 ton with a 10,000 GVWR. Now that I'm considering actually buying an RV of that type, I am very frustrated trying to find a light pin weight trailer. I tell myself, well, at least my aforementioned 15,550 rated Maxx-d gooseneck can be pulled (admittedly lightly loaded) without breaking the 26K vehicle combination licensing threshold. But, aside from searching for that excuse, I should have purchased a 3500. Even a gas 2500 would have carried more than my heavy diesel. Oh well. Live and learn.
I too had a RAM 2500 diesel and only owned it for 8 months after I figured out I was over my GVWR by 600#’s. When RAM refreshed the truck in 2019, I ordered a 3500 and never looked back. I know people say payload is a manufacture recommendation and that you have to follow you axle, tire, and GCWR capacities but they make bigger trucks for a reason 🤷♂️
The jack on the front of the trailer will lift that trailer up and even the truck.... Leave it on the truck and attached.... Should be able to get 5 in of lift easily.
I still think it’s an awesome trailer. Like I said in the other video only thing I would have for sure done had I ordered it would have been the 48” side door. Mine has the 32” door like yours however and it’s fine but just like you say, the 48” would be more convenient. The GVWR is interesting point. Mine has 9950 GVWR as well. I considered just getting a 7000 GVWR trailer because of the price but after adding up the weights for my car and ATV I knew that would be pushing it. I know for sure the weight of my trailer, car and ATV is 6612 pounds and I figure with all the other stuff I need for the races plus things I have added to my trailer (winch, some cabinets) I’m very confident that I’m at 7000 pounds loaded.
Thanks for sharing! I had already edited this video but your point of the golf cart getting in without removing car is good stuff! Yea next trailer I get, I’m maxing our GVWR unless it’s an aluminum trailer. That would easily shave off 1500#’s or more 👍🏾
I look forward to seeing some videos of it. I’m interested to see what kind of fuel mileage and such. My truck gets about the same whether my trailer is loaded or empty. I read something the other day claiming that a bumper pull gets worse mileage than a fifth wheel. I guess that makes sense because the fifth wheel is up in the bed and probably flows air better.
The good news is I will be towing the trailer with a lot of different trucks and possibly SUV’s. May have to use wife car as the Charger weighs too much for SUV’s though... I hope to show my truck against a Standard Cummins in the future with MPG comparison 👍🏾
I look forward to it! My 2020 Duramax gets between 10.5-11.5 depending on which track I go to and how much idle time. Hard to go through a drive thru with it and most of the fast food places in my area were closed to in person dining during the racing season so we always set in the truck and let it idle.
Temporarily unhook your hitch and raise the hitch / tongue to bring down your ramp a touch to solve the uneven ground at your ramp entrance. Also, that cam lock door lock is a hazard. An enterprising thief can easily lock you inside your trailer before you realize what he's doing. Your rear ramp only opens from the outside, so if you don't have a side escape swing up door, he's had his fill of your RV or truck's contents or the vehicle itself if you left your keys in the ignition... Always install a hasp that you can padlock that cam lock to the open position.
You mentioned increasing the weight capacity on your next trailer. When adding increased load carrying capacity to your trailer you have to be careful not to exceed your tow vehicle's GCVW: Gross Combined Vehicle Weight--the total of the loaded truck and the loaded trailer. It is not legal to exceed the manufacturers GCVW rating for your truck. And it may be that your state's driver's license limits how much weight you are allowed to drive or tow without getting a commercial driver's license (and adhering to all its extra requirements). We had an F450 rated at 26000# GCVW. Our boat trailer was rated at 14000GVW. If the loaded truck was heavier than 11999#, regardless of the truck's GVW (easy to do with anything much in the bed), we would have exceeded the GCWV of the truck with trailer and possibly received a violation. BTW, it is not the actual weight or load of the trailer, but the manufacture's stated GVW for the trailer that matters at the scale/inspection stop. You can have a separate violation if you have exceeded the truck's or trailer's GVW. Axle and tire load capacities and braking capacity are involved with calculating GCVW capacity. Please don't expect to bump up from a 10k capacity trailer to a 14k capacity trailer without checking whether your tow vehicle (GCVW) and your driver's license are rated to handle that load.
You also should know the rules in all the states in which you plan to travel when specifying your new trailer. For example states vary in their rules for brakes required depending on trailer weights: some require brakes above 1000#, some 2000#, some 3000#, etc. Also they may require brakes on only one axle or on all the axles, or electric vs surge brakes, depending on weight. Some states don't care as long as the rig can stop in 40 feet from 20 mph. It pays to know the rules for each state where you plan to travel and/or buy from someone you are sure knows those rules. There are some helpful resources for RV owners available online, as well as for commercial drivers.
Be careful with using wood blocks on those ramps, they are easily deformed and damaged by the pressure exerted on the reduced surface area when supporting the weight of the car. In my experience, they aren't a good long term solution, build permanent ramp extensions that attach to the tailgate.
I know you are in the process of selling your trailer. I’m getting ready to buy one myself. But I do have a question about the side escape door. Did you ever use it? I’ve seen many people on TH-cam with car trailers that have them but I never seen anyone use them. Can you actually get out once your car is loaded? It doesn’t allow you to open the driver side door like a lift escape door. And does that door leak? It seems you would have to contort your body just to use that door.
Good video but you have to know that some of the weight of your car in the trailer will go onto your truck. So that will keep you in a safe range to load all your other equipment.
hey, its a small thing. But I am always nervous backing off the open trailer, as it is so steep. I setup my gopro and use my phone as a remote viewer, that helps a bunch. How did the trailer fair this last season?
I would be interested to see how much you would charge for something more durable. Dealer paid for half since we both were unsure of ramp door covering 👍🏾
@@JB_WhoWork I think Line X is probably a good choice. I would use a product called polyurea with traction grit. The cost would generally be about $5.50 per square foot. Durable tough flooring product. It’s somewhat similar to Line X.
@@JB_WhoWork Your videos are always so good. 1). Your sales rep failed you! If they had asked all the right questions. They could have given you better solutions. As many people have pointed out. A class "A" license, is highly desirable. 2).Maybe trailer manufacturers can offer a hybrid trailer. A box on the front for the various accessories. And an open car carrier area. For a lighter trailer. 3). Truck driving schools have fallen flat on their face. They should offer a pickup class "A" training. For car haulers, horse trailers, and RV trailers. 4). The Government needs to upgrade the rules. If a person already has a class "C" license. Just have a heavy trailer written test. And a parking lot manuvering test. Much like a motorcycle test. The new category could be a class "C" with a "large trailer" endorsement. With Ram now offering a 37,000# trailer towing rating. The numbers are getting crazy. A Big Rig has a ruggedness to get as 150,000 miles a year out of a unit. But pickup owners who haul for personal use. Should be treated differently than commercial drivers. No medical certificate either. I have had a class "A" since last century. The Ram 4500, GM 4500's, and the Ford F450. Can handle a lot. And personal use drivers or even incidental use business drivers. Should have a legal means to take advantage of that technology in an informed and skilled manner.
Thank You for your comment! So sales person did ask if I wanted to up my GVWR but I was being cheap and did not want to go get a non commercial DL due to world events! (I’m apart of the mask haters). I do agree that guidelines from the government need to be updated because these tow numbers are getting out of control, and some of the numbers don’t make sense due to trucks being built more rugged (heavier). Really great points 👍🏾
No you dont need a class A for these trailers unless it's over 52k. The only thing you might need for safe keeping is a class B license so dot dont mess you up with tickets
Dude your racecar trailer is fine and you shouldnt need the ramps I got exact same trailer for super low asphalt out law latemodel its alot lower and dont need extra ramps for it and it works perfectly fine the trailer the way you have it. You gotta use the jack to raise front of trailer while still on track ramp will be low enough and nothing wrong with bar locks never been broke in and I dont have that lash and mine closes with out latch but guess my trailer works perfect for me with the mistakes you made
And also man add some tire racks to the walls I got them on both sides and had 12 racing slicks in each and my trailer is finished lile yours as well but my door came finished not bare wood and I got carpet instead of a hard finished floor I love the carpet so nice to nap in on a cold day at the track
And nothing wrong with strapping under car and not tires my outlaw super latemodel I race on asphalt oval is alot more tight doing the straps but it gets done no problem at all just stop complaining and go racing
I back my truck onto some of those ramps you get at the parts store for changing oil, it raises the front of the trailer like 8-10” and gives me a great approach angle. And don’t have to worry about lining anything up, just pull in and out.
Hi JB. What comes to mind is the old probe Nothing ventured nothing gained, Remember these words with you next trailer1 Have you received my latest email updates 48 hours ago on the power wagon.
You should have talked to other people or racers before buying to get their opinion . I would sell or trade in on a better trailer that you would be happier with.
@@JB_WhoWork just me, but after being a trucker for 35 years anything bigger than an open tandem for one car I prefer to be a gooseneck. Handle ins and weight distribution is so much better,,,,, and you can do 90 degree turn around.
![BOWKYLION - เจ้านายคะ (work-life imbalance) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6bFj8G2pOi4/mqdefault.jpg)
Run a battery with a inverter to run the LED lights when not connected to a land line. Similar to a Rv setup. Dual 6 volts will give a additional run time compared to a 12 volt battery
Hope this helps and beautiful trailer
Great info Glenn, thanks 👍🏾👍🏾
Step 1: NEVER custom order your first enclosed trailer.
Step 2: Buy a used enclosed trailer as your first unit. Live with it for a few seasons. You’ll know everything you want in your first “real” enclosed.
Step 3: Now that you know what you want and how you’re going to use the rig, custom order.
Good conversation on GVWR and GCWR, however, in many states when you get past 9990 lbs. you run into a slew of licensing/register issues.
Every season you should scale your rig, because it’s amazing how much extra crap (weight) creeps in over time.
Lights: You can never have enough.
Outlets: See also, “lights.” Unpossible to have too many, both inside and out.
HVAC: You want it.
Man Doors: A waste of time and an additional place for leaks.
Appreciate the video bro! You did a better job than most trailer manufacturers do
Very important message on this video, I took it to heart. You saved me from mistakes also, thanks.
Very nice trailer, All good points, remember, if one chooses the extra height option it adds aero drag and will hurt fuel mileage, if you don't need it keep it low..
I also should have got the RV door option, but did not. I did however add E-track and plan to add more, great stuff, also a small winch inside the trailer to help load and unload, it's a huge help when loading/unloading alone.
I run12v LED lighting inside and outside, at the ramp, side door and tongue. then an inverter for 120V inside.
Yet another great video, keep them coming and stay blessed.
Thanks Joshua! Blessings to you too!
I ordered basically the same trailer, blank interior with 5200lb axles! My wife and I customized the inside ourselves, with Diamond plate gray vinyl flooring, half walls carpeted and painted and LED lighting above! Our beaver tail lays flat down to the ground surface though. We painted it with anti slip deck paint. I have 120VAC configed using my Honda EU200OI placed on the front front frame rails! It was purchased to Haul our 1969 Plymouth Barracuda 383 Formula "S" around the USA to shows! We are Veteran Camper owners and have a good sense of what we need!
And yes I mounted my E-track myself after measuring my requirements, with all bolts through frame rails!
I added E track to my trailer in multiple positions where I needed it what a game-changer super easy to add a little extra to your trailer
Thanks for sharing! Not a bad idea, I could just add enough for under my tires 👍🏾
I have a 24' enclosed with just lights and a spare tire. No cabinets as it's only for carrying my car. I also have Race Ramps and love them. My car sits super low and they work great. Very nice trailer, by the way!
Good points! You'll save many viewers some frustration when searching for their own trailer.
Yea, some of the items can be done after the fact but it’s more expensive. Btw what are you doing still up lol!
Tip. It's always good to get all options when ordering custom anything, especially the extra weight option!
💯
Nice trailer JB. I have a battery system connected to a solar panel on top of mine. Great for running air compressors, lights, chargers etc. if you’ve got any electrical skills it’s worth doing. It makes it fully self sufficient for power.
Thanks Mike! Me and electricity don’t get along so I will have to bring it by for you to setup 😀
@@JB_WhoWork I could teach ya a thing or two 😂 It’s not that hard once you get into it
Lol! Coming from you I feel confident 👍🏾💪🏾
Yeah, my first trailer was all optioned out and i bought it a year old.
My trailer now wasn't so much.. i had to add the generator and I painted the ramp door myself
with shop floor paint and a non slip additive
which didn't make it any heavier... it's wired for dual A/C's but think about what you said about weight has me thinking, i can always sell them if I decide not to install them.
Good video..👍
I thought about painting but was unsure how it would hold up. Did yours turn out nice and did you add primer first?
Yes, i primed it.... , and 4years later it was holding its own.
I think the key was letting it dry for a week before I used it.
Thanks for the great advice...
Great Video.!!
That is a nice trailer brother. The trailer will haul your car and give you a garage for it which is why you wanted it and with the weather you have to deal with I sure understand. The down side it just most likely will not give the ability to move the stuff from you storage to your trailer. You'll most likely have to wait until you sell the hot rod. Thanks for sharing the information and the suggestions JB.
Hey Ric! I agree, I may have to put my tool box and a few other heavy items in our crate storage and if I get a lighter car in the future, I can gain more capacity . Thanks for sharing 👍🏾
My mans!!! I love it! See you Monday!
Thanks bro! Looking forward to it 👍🏾
Great video, love the advice.
Thanks!
Great tips Bro! Stay warm!
Thanks! You too 👍🏾
Super helpful. Thanks for the video. I’ve got more research to do!
Great video and tips
Trailer looks good bro! I love a split axle trailer
Thanks man 👍🏾
Great advice, thanks for sharing…
I really enjoy your videos! Very informative! Your trailer is fantastic!
I went on a trailer buying binge a few years ago. I purchased a gooseneck power-tilt deck-over flatbed 14K trailer and also a 10K gravity-tilt equipment trailer for vehicles and equipment I use on my farm, and finally, a 3K gravity tilt flatbed for lighter work. I also bought a 6x12 v-nosed aluminum-framed cargo trailer.
I SO agree with you on taking time to research your options! On each of my trailer purchases, I spent months, literally, researching the virtues and vices of suspension choices (tandem vs single axle, torsion vs leaf, etc.) and GVWR/licensing considerations, frame and structure material choices and finishes, frame crossmember spacing, brake options, winch options, and trailer brand reputations. The little cargo trailer involved similar variables, but was even more entertaining, with door and ramp choices, window considerations, lighting and electrical, venting, tie-down, and insulation/sidewall/flooring considerations.
Now, I am toying with the idea of an enclosed car hauler, too. And then, there is always that fifth-wheel RV lingering in the back of my mind.
I notice that your trailer is steel-framed. Did you consider purchasing an aluminum-framed unit in your decision making process? Just curious on your thoughts of steel vs aluminum.
Great info and you definitely have bought/used all kinds of trailers!
I chose steel because of price and I heard that aluminum trailers don’t tow well because of how lightweight they are. I also have a 1 ton diesel so the extra weight goes unnoticed lol
@@JB_WhoWork You did well, particularly with buying the 1-ton. I made the all-to-frequent mistake of buying a new Duramax 2500 in 2016, and I didn't anticipate how little payload capacity would be available for potentially hauling a fifth wheel travel trailer in a 3/4 ton with a 10,000 GVWR. Now that I'm considering actually buying an RV of that type, I am very frustrated trying to find a light pin weight trailer. I tell myself, well, at least my aforementioned 15,550 rated Maxx-d gooseneck can be pulled (admittedly lightly loaded) without breaking the 26K vehicle combination licensing threshold. But, aside from searching for that excuse, I should have purchased a 3500. Even a gas 2500 would have carried more than my heavy diesel.
Oh well. Live and learn.
I too had a RAM 2500 diesel and only owned it for 8 months after I figured out I was over my GVWR by 600#’s. When RAM refreshed the truck in 2019, I ordered a 3500 and never looked back.
I know people say payload is a manufacture recommendation and that you have to follow you axle, tire, and GCWR capacities but they make bigger trucks for a reason 🤷♂️
The jack on the front of the trailer will lift that trailer up and even the truck.... Leave it on the truck and attached.... Should be able to get 5 in of lift easily.
If the E-track runs next to the car consider using lasso straps on each wheel. That may be easier to use and don't have to crawl under car.
I was concerned they would damage the wheels but something to consider next time
Wow, well at least you gain the knowledge for your next trailer but it still looking good.
Yup! I could have increased it at the time but it was way too expensive. Thanks for sharing George 👍🏾
You are so helpful!! Thanks
No problem, glad it was helpful 👍🏾
thank you for the helpful video!
I still think it’s an awesome trailer. Like I said in the other video only thing I would have for sure done had I ordered it would have been the 48” side door. Mine has the 32” door like yours however and it’s fine but just like you say, the 48” would be more convenient.
The GVWR is interesting point. Mine has 9950 GVWR as well. I considered just getting a 7000 GVWR trailer because of the price but after adding up the weights for my car and ATV I knew that would be pushing it. I know for sure the weight of my trailer, car and ATV is 6612 pounds and I figure with all the other stuff I need for the races plus things I have added to my trailer (winch, some cabinets) I’m very confident that I’m at 7000 pounds loaded.
Thanks for sharing! I had already edited this video but your point of the golf cart getting in without removing car is good stuff!
Yea next trailer I get, I’m maxing our GVWR unless it’s an aluminum trailer. That would easily shave off 1500#’s or more 👍🏾
I look forward to seeing some videos of it. I’m interested to see what kind of fuel mileage and such. My truck gets about the same whether my trailer is loaded or empty.
I read something the other day claiming that a bumper pull gets worse mileage than a fifth wheel. I guess that makes sense because the fifth wheel is up in the bed and probably flows air better.
The good news is I will be towing the trailer with a lot of different trucks and possibly SUV’s. May have to use wife car as the Charger weighs too much for SUV’s though... I hope to show my truck against a Standard Cummins in the future with MPG comparison 👍🏾
I look forward to it!
My 2020 Duramax gets between 10.5-11.5 depending on which track I go to and how much idle time. Hard to go through a drive thru with it and most of the fast food places in my area were closed to in person dining during the racing season so we always set in the truck and let it idle.
Wow that’s pretty good for a diesel V8! How many miles you have on it now?
Temporarily unhook your hitch and raise the hitch / tongue to bring down your ramp a touch to solve the uneven ground at your ramp entrance.
Also, that cam lock door lock is a hazard. An enterprising thief can easily lock you inside your trailer before you realize what he's doing. Your rear ramp only opens from the outside, so if you don't have a side escape swing up door, he's had his fill of your RV or truck's contents or the vehicle itself if you left your keys in the ignition...
Always install a hasp that you can padlock that cam lock to the open position.
No need for line-x. Just get porch paint and add a bag of texture sand (sold in the paint dept). Tough paint with texture for grip.
Very helpful, thanks
Glad it was helpful 👍🏾
🤔 A transition piece to cover the hinge gap area would be useful. 😎
You mentioned increasing the weight capacity on your next trailer. When adding increased load carrying capacity to your trailer you have to be careful not to exceed your tow vehicle's GCVW: Gross Combined Vehicle Weight--the total of the loaded truck and the loaded trailer. It is not legal to exceed the manufacturers GCVW rating for your truck. And it may be that your state's driver's license limits how much weight you are allowed to drive or tow without getting a commercial driver's license (and adhering to all its extra requirements). We had an F450 rated at 26000# GCVW. Our boat trailer was rated at 14000GVW. If the loaded truck was heavier than 11999#, regardless of the truck's GVW (easy to do with anything much in the bed), we would have exceeded the GCWV of the truck with trailer and possibly received a violation. BTW, it is not the actual weight or load of the trailer, but the manufacture's stated GVW for the trailer that matters at the scale/inspection stop. You can have a separate violation if you have exceeded the truck's or trailer's GVW. Axle and tire load capacities and braking capacity are involved with calculating GCVW capacity. Please don't expect to bump up from a 10k capacity trailer to a 14k capacity trailer without checking whether your tow vehicle (GCVW) and your driver's license are rated to handle that load.
You also should know the rules in all the states in which you plan to travel when specifying your new trailer. For example states vary in their rules for brakes required depending on trailer weights: some require brakes above 1000#, some 2000#, some 3000#, etc. Also they may require brakes on only one axle or on all the axles, or electric vs surge brakes, depending on weight. Some states don't care as long as the rig can stop in 40 feet from 20 mph. It pays to know the rules for each state where you plan to travel and/or buy from someone you are sure knows those rules. There are some helpful resources for RV owners available online, as well as for commercial drivers.
Great info, sorry I’m just now seeing this 👍🏾
Be careful with using wood blocks on those ramps, they are easily deformed and damaged by the pressure exerted on the reduced surface area when supporting the weight of the car. In my experience, they aren't a good long term solution, build permanent ramp extensions that attach to the tailgate.
Thanks Travis!
JB great videos. Can you let us know a ball park figure what you might have to pay for a trailer like yours?
I paid just under $17k 1 yr and a half ago, thanks!
I know you are in the process of selling your trailer. I’m getting ready to buy one myself. But I do have a question about the side escape door. Did you ever use it? I’ve seen many people on TH-cam with car trailers that have them but I never seen anyone use them. Can you actually get out once your car is loaded? It doesn’t allow you to open the driver side door like a lift escape door. And does that door leak? It seems you would have to contort your body just to use that door.
Thank you
Good video but you have to know that some of the weight of your car in the trailer will go onto your truck. So that will keep you in a safe range to load all your other equipment.
How long is this trailer (inside dimension)?
hey, its a small thing. But I am always nervous backing off the open trailer, as it is so steep. I setup my gopro and use my phone as a remote viewer, that helps a bunch. How did the trailer fair this last season?
Great idea and to answer your question, trailer was great! Most reliable and easy to use trailer to own 👍🏾
@@JB_WhoWork That's great to hear!
Trailer looks great JB!! Do you know by chance what they coated your rear ramp with?
Thanks Thomas! It was coated with Line X
@@JB_WhoWork Thanks! I own a floor coating company and was curious why it was so expensive.
I would be interested to see how much you would charge for something more durable. Dealer paid for half since we both were unsure of ramp door covering 👍🏾
@@JB_WhoWork I think Line X is probably a good choice. I would use a product called polyurea with traction grit. The cost would generally be about $5.50 per square foot. Durable tough flooring product. It’s somewhat similar to Line X.
Where did you order the trailer from? Website?
I feel like the trailer is longer than it needs to be... how did you decide on length?
The price wasn’t much different and I thought about if I ever decided to put tires on the wall or bring a golf cart, it would leave me enough room 👍🏾
In some states if you go over 10k GVWR on the trailer, you need a class A CDL. Study the laws in your area before you order a trailer that size
Really good point! That is why I stuck to the 9950 but now that my trailer is so heavy, I probably would have just updated my license
@@JB_WhoWork Your videos are always so good.
1). Your sales rep failed you! If they had asked all the right questions. They could have given you better solutions.
As many people have pointed out. A class "A" license, is highly desirable.
2).Maybe trailer manufacturers can offer a hybrid trailer. A box on the front for the various accessories. And an open car carrier area. For a lighter trailer.
3). Truck driving schools have fallen flat on their face. They should offer a pickup class "A" training. For car haulers, horse trailers, and RV trailers.
4). The Government needs to upgrade the rules. If a person already has a class "C" license. Just have a heavy trailer written test. And a parking lot manuvering test. Much like a motorcycle test. The new category could be a class "C" with a "large trailer" endorsement. With Ram now offering a 37,000# trailer towing rating. The numbers are getting crazy. A Big Rig has a ruggedness to get as 150,000 miles a year out of a unit. But pickup owners who haul for personal use. Should be treated differently than commercial drivers. No medical certificate either. I have had a class "A" since last century. The Ram 4500, GM 4500's, and the Ford F450. Can handle a lot. And personal use drivers or even incidental use business drivers. Should have a legal means to take advantage of that technology in an informed and skilled manner.
Thank You for your comment! So sales person did ask if I wanted to up my GVWR but I was being cheap and did not want to go get a non commercial DL due to world events! (I’m apart of the mask haters).
I do agree that guidelines from the government need to be updated because these tow numbers are getting out of control, and some of the numbers don’t make sense due to trucks being built more rugged (heavier).
Really great points 👍🏾
No you dont need a class A for these trailers unless it's over 52k. The only thing you might need for safe keeping is a class B license so dot dont mess you up with tickets
@@L1berty1776 wrong
In regards to the weight, two things. Throw your extra tires in the truck. Take some weight off of the car. Re-weigh the car. 4,800# seems high.
Why don't you adjust the cables on the door instead of using the ramps?
Dude your racecar trailer is fine and you shouldnt need the ramps I got exact same trailer for super low asphalt out law latemodel its alot lower and dont need extra ramps for it and it works perfectly fine the trailer the way you have it. You gotta use the jack to raise front of trailer while still on track ramp will be low enough and nothing wrong with bar locks never been broke in and I dont have that lash and mine closes with out latch but guess my trailer works perfect for me with the mistakes you made
And also man add some tire racks to the walls I got them on both sides and had 12 racing slicks in each and my trailer is finished lile yours as well but my door came finished not bare wood and I got carpet instead of a hard finished floor I love the carpet so nice to nap in on a cold day at the track
And nothing wrong with strapping under car and not tires my outlaw super latemodel I race on asphalt oval is alot more tight doing the straps but it gets done no problem at all just stop complaining and go racing
I back my truck onto some of those ramps you get at the parts store for changing oil, it raises the front of the trailer like 8-10” and gives me a great approach angle. And don’t have to worry about lining anything up, just pull in and out.
If you get one off the lot you can negotiate, not when you order, saved me 1100. On a 24 similar to yours.
I got mine discounted 15% 👍🏾
What's with the mess of caulking around the door handle ??
It was added after the fact 😅
Wells cargo?
I’m looking at a Wells Cargo 24' WELLS CARGO 7 FT INTERIOR ENCLOSED TRAILER Cargo / Enclosed Trailer?
Hi JB.
What comes to mind is the old probe Nothing ventured nothing gained,
Remember these words with you next trailer1
Have you received my latest email updates 48 hours ago on the power wagon.
💯! I just responded back
@@JB_WhoWork Thanks
You should have talked to other people or racers before buying to get their opinion . I would sell or trade in on a better trailer that you would be happier with.
Put the tire in the side door before you walk in then roll it. Simple.
These new enclosed trailers sit low as it is I am surprised you need race ramps. I can almost guarantee you you don't need them.
How wide is that trailer?
8.5’
@@JB_WhoWork damm, that’s a tight fit.
That’s actually the widest you can get
What about you Charger? I haven't those videos..
Probably going to spin off another channel for it
@@JB_WhoWork can't wait
Whats the price of this trailer?
Need to do a video on this, stay tuned 👍🏾
@@JB_WhoWork NVM dude I got it from another viewer... I dont get what was so hard about telling the price....
man its hard to imagine someone afraid to back a car out of a trailer but here we are.
Better safe then sorry when just starting, no need for hateful comments.
Bro your first mistake in this video is where you parked the trailer to unload.
You have a truck,,,,,, why not a gooseneck? You could have an extra 3k of cargo capacity.
I mainly bought this trailer for testing purposes but in the future I may go with a gooseneck if I ever get serious about racing 👍🏾
@@JB_WhoWork just me, but after being a trucker for 35 years anything bigger than an open tandem for one car I prefer to be a gooseneck. Handle ins and weight distribution is so much better,,,,, and you can do 90 degree turn around.
A good trailer dealer wouldn't have let you do that to yourself.
I wish my wife homeschooled. That's a smart chic
2:03
Disappointed you didn’t show unloading car
InTech
You jave the car way too far inside the trailer.
before worrying about a trailoer buy a car woorth trailering.