You earned a new subscriber ! I do all my own stuff too. Bought a jet ski for my son 20 years ago with a chunk of gel coat missing under the bow. It is still sitting here waiting to be repaired. Your multi layer patch is genius ! NOW I know how to fix this thing !! It was supposed to be a father/son project................then he discovered girls. LOL !!
Terrific video! My son purchased a jetski which requires a repair to the bottom and this video is exactly what I was looking for. I've done some car bodywork so I already have all the tools for the job. I can't wait to apply those and this video to our "new" jetski! Thank you.
This is the best i have seen on fiberglass repair. Full of great to the point information. I have been watching a lot of YT videos on fiberglass repair. Thanks.
Very good explanation, it gives / passes confidence to somebody that needs a push to a diy fiberglass repair ! Congratulations and thanks for sharing !
Thank you for the video, I am actually about to fix a much smaller hole on my 20 sea craft. I do not have access from the top of the hull so I will be doing the repair from under only. You gave me confidence that it can be done strong enough from just one side of the hull. Thank you!
Best video ever ; my pulpit stanchions raised/leaky due to opposing forces from pushpit of stern, should it be underneath i do the patch ? or both sides ? ?
Great Video! Thanks for sharing! May I ask if you had projects where there were soft spots on the hull? If yes, did you fix it by cutting/removing the soft spot area and applying the same method?
That really has to do with temperature, amount of hardner and exposure to sun. You should be safe if you wait overnight. You can usually tell by touch. If the resin is hard its ready to sand.
I was removing a soft floor and the angle grinder went through a spot i wasnt aware that was the hull itself. Could a little slit like that just be filled with resin and gell coat?
Do you have any advice on painting afterwards, I have a 94 ski centurion with a couple places I need to repair and I would like to try and match it but it doesn't have to be perfect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Very helpful. Can I ask, what type of paint would you apply after the gel coat step if you want to get an approximate color match with rest of the boat bottom? Thanks.
Good video, but I think you should have placed the patch with multiple layers with the smallest diameter down first. The largest piece being on the top caps off the smaller pieces and makes finishing smooth much easier.
I don't understand why a lot of small pieces before the final full-sized long piece is better than say five full-sized long pieces ? Wouldn't (after the repair is done) and you put weight on that area the weight be spread better if the pieces are larger ? I'm sure you are right but can you explain why ?
for a repair like this I prefer to use smaller pcs to fill the void. If I draped a large pce over the entire hole it might leave an air space. In addition using only larger pcs would end up with a very thick repair on the outside edge that would have to be ground smooth. Bottom line Im sure it would work both ways im just trying to justify my prefered technique LOL
Well your repair is better than the last video I watched on this subject , but still wrong. You should alternate each layer of matt with a layer of cloth or roving. Then you should have flipped the boat over and filled half the depth from the outside to form a sandwich repair again alternating matt and cloth. Or got under the boat and did it. I've done repairs like this up to three feet long. if you need a backer to glass to, it can be made by putting some pva on a sheet of plexi and laminating a few layers and then cutting out using a template of the hole. Finish it off with a final couple coats of gelcoat to seal it all up.
Gelcoat is polyester based, and shouldn’t be placed on top of an epoxy based resin. He would have been better off using an epoxy based fairing compound and after getting it smooth, just painting over it. In the end, this is a small boat with minimal stresses, so it’s probably fine, but this wouldn’t fly on a larger boat.
I actually have done it. Only trick is after grinding to get the first layer. You can use parchment paper and a pc of wood to hold the first layer up. Once that is dry remove the parchment , Grind and then go layer by layer
this is wrong!....you were correct when using a slightly larger pcs of glass but when you made the first patch you reversed the order of size and put the larger one down first. this makes each layer rely on the only one touching the hull to stay on the boat. if the first larger layer ever failed everything would come off. your 2nd patch was correct with the smaller one going against the hull first. this allowed each layer to come into contact with the hull and makes each layer non reliant on the previous one to stay onto the hull.
@@DIYeasycrafts Michael Binns obviously has never done professional fiberglass repairs. Always start with small laminates and cover with larger laminates as you fill up the taper youve ground in.
Wrong! The first layer of fg is the LARGEST followed by progressively smaller layers to build up. That way the repair has maximal bonding strength to the hull. Your repair is weaker.
That isn't true! there are many ways to skin a cat! your way works, this way works better in other peoples opinion, starting smaller means every layer makes contact with the surrounding area!
@@bobbeckstead8340 your wrong dude, The smaller pieces go in first and then the larger building out. The layers should be alternated between matt cloth and or roving. Do half the thickness on the inside and then the other half should be outside to make a sandwich repair. I always use a small roller to apply the resin and an air roller to roll out the air. It all needs to be cleaned with acetone. Believe me I've done a large amount of boat building and boat repair.
Bob you are 100% correct in that the largest piece is put down first. The reason this is done is to maintain the longest possible laminate continuity through the scope of the repair. When you do smallest to largest you end up with resin rich pockets at the transitions of each layer and if there is any surface grinding necessary (which there will be) you run the risk of shearing the fibers at each overlap. I will add this should also be done with vinylester if available. In this particular repair ive seen comments that a woven fabric should be added to the stack but this is a small Whaler, if im not mistaken its all chop with a foam filled core, you can get away with csm throughout repair. What your after with any repair is maintaining its original structure whatever that might be, strive for no hard thick spots. Im sure the repair as shown will float but it is still an amateur repair at best. I will also say this, as long as i have been in this biz (35 years) im sure and equally plausible argument can be made for either method but this is the one i prefer. Every repair is going to be different and you have to learn to tailor your skills and knowledge to accommodate them all.
thanks for the great video and all the precautions need for a fiberglass job
Easy to follow instructions for basic fiberglass repair. Thank you for posting for us "novice folks" who love DIY repairs.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Best of luck with your repair
I just got a boat for free from my stepbrother that has a hole somewhere on it I gotta find so this video has been very helpful thank you very much
I found a boat in a pond in the woods carried it a mile and im going to try to make it useable again. Great video.
Good luck!
You earned a new subscriber ! I do all my own stuff too. Bought a jet ski for my son 20 years ago with a chunk of gel coat missing under the bow. It is still sitting here waiting to be repaired. Your multi layer patch is genius ! NOW I know how to fix this thing !! It was supposed to be a father/son project................then he discovered girls. LOL !!
Thanks for the sub!
Terrific video! My son purchased a jetski which requires a repair to the bottom and this video is exactly what I was looking for. I've done some car bodywork so I already have all the tools for the job. I can't wait to apply those and this video to our "new" jetski! Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thank you for this. It made the daunting task of fixing a whole in my hull seem much more achievable.
I have some additional fiberglass videos. Including how to fix small holes. www.diyeasycrafts.com/carolina-skiff-project-boat.html
This is the best i have seen on fiberglass repair. Full of great to the point information. I have been watching a lot of YT videos on fiberglass repair.
Thanks.
Wow that is quite a compliment. Glad to be of assistance and best of luck with your project
perfect job! Thanks for the great tips and tricks.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good explanation, it gives / passes confidence to somebody that needs a push to a diy fiberglass repair ! Congratulations and thanks for sharing !
Thank you very much!
Thank you for the video, I am actually about to fix a much smaller hole on my 20 sea craft. I do not have access from the top of the hull so I will be doing the repair from under only. You gave me confidence that it can be done strong enough from just one side of the hull. Thank you!
Gelcoat over epoxy?
Nice work! Thank you for sharing this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Really good video brotha. Thank you thank you 🙏🏾
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, very nice narration, lot of knowledge in. Thanks, feeling as professional now 😂😂
Best video ever ; my pulpit stanchions raised/leaky due to opposing forces from pushpit of stern,
should it be underneath i do the patch ? or both sides ? ?
Thank you. Without seeing a photo its hard to say. I would probably patch from both sides
Thank you! Great video. Appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
do you use epoxy resin or polysters resin?
Great Video! Thanks for sharing!
May I ask if you had projects where there were soft spots on the hull? If yes, did you fix it by cutting/removing the soft spot area and applying the same method?
What kit and or brand did you use for the repair please
Thanks for the video. Would be nice if you list all products you used.
When you did your first set of layers did you use wax in the resin?
Great video, if I would add one other step it would be to do the same on the inside to remove any sharp spots.
How long did you let the fiberglass dry before sanding it down again?
That really has to do with temperature, amount of hardner and exposure to sun. You should be safe if you wait overnight. You can usually tell by touch. If the resin is hard its ready to sand.
Thank you great work, very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, it was very helpful. I'm looking into buying an older boat, and I might want to do some modifications in fibreglass. thanks
Glad it was helpful!
question: is that structural fiberglass? I would have thought you would have to use matt fiberglass just curious thanks
Should of shown the roller in action its the most important part of the process and gives a smashing bond.
Hi is the taper really necessary?
I was removing a soft floor and the angle grinder went through a spot i wasnt aware that was the hull itself. Could a little slit like that just be filled with resin and gell coat?
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
What kind of boat is that is it a 70’s Salem skiff?
Its a 13' Del Quay Dory. Very similar in design to a whaller
Cold shower tip made your advice that more legit… THANKS!!
it helps!!
Do you have any advice on painting afterwards, I have a 94 ski centurion with a couple places I need to repair and I would like to try and match it but it doesn't have to be perfect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
How quickly does this resin dry before it can be sanded and worked?
Do you have a list of items you used?
Cleaned with acetone, I used flap sanding wheels and a disc grinder, paint brushes, fiberglass resin and mat
Did you light sand the gel coat before paint?
Best to light sand and then wipe with acetone before gelcoat
Very helpful. Can I ask, what type of paint would you apply after the gel coat step if you want to get an approximate color match with rest of the boat bottom? Thanks.
I am going to fix my wife's dingy after watching this
thanks very much
Best of luck
Good video, but I think you should have placed the patch with multiple layers with the smallest diameter down first. The largest piece being on the top caps off the smaller pieces and makes finishing smooth much easier.
I don't understand why a lot of small pieces before the final full-sized long piece is better than say five full-sized long pieces ? Wouldn't (after the repair is done) and you put weight on that area the weight be spread better if the pieces are larger ? I'm sure you are right but can you explain why ?
for a repair like this I prefer to use smaller pcs to fill the void. If I draped a large pce over the entire hole it might leave an air space. In addition using only larger pcs would end up with a very thick repair on the outside edge that would have to be ground smooth. Bottom line Im sure it would work both ways im just trying to justify my prefered technique LOL
@@DIYeasycrafts Many thanks for the info !
What is the make of that boat?
It a Dell Quay Dory
THANK YOU good sir.
You are very welcome
groynd away , my friend
Ty
Nice
Thanks
Well your repair is better than the last video I watched on this subject , but still wrong. You should alternate each layer of matt with a layer of cloth or roving. Then you should have flipped the boat over and filled half the depth from the outside to form a sandwich repair again alternating matt and cloth. Or got under the boat and did it. I've done repairs like this up to three feet long. if you need a backer to glass to, it can be made by putting some pva on a sheet of plexi and laminating a few layers and then cutting out using a template of the hole. Finish it off with a final couple coats of gelcoat to seal it all up.
where is your video please I have looked on your channel but its not there
Gelcoat is polyester based, and shouldn’t be placed on top of an epoxy based resin. He would have been better off using an epoxy based fairing compound and after getting it smooth, just painting over it. In the end, this is a small boat with minimal stresses, so it’s probably fine, but this wouldn’t fly on a larger boat.
Let me know if you sell the boat. I want to be far away. And broke.
gravity is YOUR friend.....challenge to to THIS from bottom looking UP...(smile)
I actually have done it. Only trick is after grinding to get the first layer. You can use parchment paper and a pc of wood to hold the first layer up. Once that is dry remove the parchment , Grind and then go layer by layer
this is wrong!....you were correct when using a slightly larger pcs of glass but when you made the first patch you reversed the order of size and put the larger one down first. this makes each layer rely on the only one touching the hull to stay on the boat. if the first larger layer ever failed everything would come off. your 2nd patch was correct with the smaller one going against the hull first. this allowed each layer to come into contact with the hull and makes each layer non reliant on the previous one to stay onto the hull.
You are supposed to fill big too small
Not quite sure what you are talking about. This is a through hole repair. You want to flair the hole then patch the entire void.
@@DIYeasycrafts Michael Binns obviously has never done professional fiberglass repairs. Always start with small laminates and cover with larger laminates as you fill up the taper youve ground in.
Watch this video if you want to see a similar repair done right - th-cam.com/video/4XoeGV2KhGc/w-d-xo.html
Wrong! The first layer of fg is the LARGEST followed by progressively smaller layers to build up. That way the repair has maximal bonding strength to the hull. Your repair is weaker.
That isn't true! there are many ways to skin a cat! your way works, this way works better in other peoples opinion, starting smaller means every layer makes contact with the surrounding area!
@@MarkDoc Learn physics.
@@bobbeckstead8340 your wrong dude, The smaller pieces go in first and then the larger building out. The layers should be alternated between matt cloth and or roving. Do half the thickness on the inside and then the other half should be outside to make a sandwich repair. I always use a small roller to apply the resin and an air roller to roll out the air. It all needs to be cleaned with acetone. Believe me I've done a large amount of boat building and boat repair.
@@MarksWorldofEngravingandMore Sorry, "Dude" - you don't know what you're talking about.
Bob you are 100% correct in that the largest piece is put down first. The reason this is done is to maintain the longest possible laminate continuity through the scope of the repair. When you do smallest to largest you end up with resin rich pockets at the transitions of each layer and if there is any surface grinding necessary (which there will be) you run the risk of shearing the fibers at each overlap. I will add this should also be done with vinylester if available. In this particular repair ive seen comments that a woven fabric should be added to the stack but this is a small Whaler, if im not mistaken its all chop with a foam filled core, you can get away with csm throughout repair. What your after with any repair is maintaining its original structure whatever that might be, strive for no hard thick spots. Im sure the repair as shown will float but it is still an amateur repair at best. I will also say this, as long as i have been in this biz (35 years) im sure and equally plausible argument can be made for either method but this is the one i prefer. Every repair is going to be different and you have to learn to tailor your skills and knowledge to accommodate them all.
Bondo resin is all wrong !
The bondo used is fiberglass based
How long do you wait to do the first sanding?
Just until its dry