How to Install M1A Gas Shims ~ and Without Stupid Castle Nut Pliers!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a really easy installation, using Badger Ridge Industries gas shims from www.BadgerRidgeInd.com. Forget buying expensive castle nut pliers that were designed to spend taxpayer dollars to supply military armorers with an expensive but ridiculously cheaply made tool. Baloney! Don't fall for that wallet shredder! As I will demonstrate, removing the castle nut professionally is easy peasy, easier to do with tools you already have, requiring no pliers at all.
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Nice ! More M1A! Tell us all you know!!!
Great video. Very helpful and informative. We are glad "God gave you a brain, and you learned field expedience!" Thank you for the kind words & un-sponsored endorsement of us and our products. We believe that we are in the satisfied customer business more than the just sell product business.
Thank you, and special thanks for putting my video on your website! God bless.
Thank you so much for this info. In one weekend, following these instructions, I bedded the rear sight, shimmed the gas system, tightened and properly aligned the front sight. The first trip to the range after completing the was quite rewarding. I keyholed three of the first five shots! Prior to that my rifle was all over the target. I’m happy.
That's terrific! God bless.
"Keyholing" generally means a bullet that's tumbling end-over-end during flight, creating a long "skeleton keyhole" puncture in the paper target ! "Keyholing" is a very bad thing.
I just picked up my new M1A... Your videos are worth their weight in gold... Thank you for sharing your knowledge... worth every minute of watching.
Now I just want to see a video on proper maintenance of a gun like this. We've discussed before in another video that a lot of people don't know how to properly maintain a nicely bedded M14 which can cause damage and loss of accuracy. I'd love to learn the correct process to minimize or remove the need to constantly re-bed it.
I'll add that to my list!
@@GunBlue490 Yeah, that's ultimately what I care about most. I'm still untalented enough that even basic glass bedding is difficult for me, but with enough money, I can always get someone else to do it for me. It's maintaining it after the fact where I worry because I keep hearing how I can't disassemble the gun at all without destroying the bedding and having to redo it.
I suppose a video on re-bedding could also be useful if it's not too difficult to do vs. a full bedding job.
Youre the best firearms instructor on youtube. Thank you for what you do.
Dude seems as far away from being an asshole as anybody on the Internet.
Great lesson. You are a passing wealth of knowledge. God bless you and yours. Thanks.
Great info, Sir. Thank you! I will head over and support Badger Ridge Industries for their shims!
Another great informative video. I’ve been following along to do this to my M14. Thanks again. 😊
I've only worked on M1s and BM59s, never the M1A/M14, so it's very informative watching GunBlue do his simple magic.
Always a pleasure! Thank you.
Thumb appears to be healing! Great videos, wealth of information, I always learn something useful by watching and listening.
Your a wealth of knowledge. Always educational. Glad Benny is doing well.
I do not really know what to say except that watching your videos is one of the highlights of my week. I always learn something I needed to know, no matter the primary subject of the vid.
Fun vid.👍 I have a Springfield walnut stock 'Loaded' that I used in Camp Perry's first M1A shoot. Which was also Camp Perry's 100th aniv...2007. My scores were terrible, but I'll always remember it; along with the all day torrential rain. You had a vid awhile back on those green cotton slings that you endorsed, and because of that I've put one on almost every rifle I own.
Very respectable camera work
Thanks for the great and informative video! Look forward to the next M1A video!
Excellent video! Love M14/M-1A rifles! Starting by measuring with feeler gages gives a great starting point! So I'd suggest it. The only thing I would further suggest (and I don't think this rifle needed it) is that sometimes the splines that the gas system &/or the front sight ride on, require just a little peening to tighten their fit radially. The shims take up the coaxial movement, but sometimes the rotation/radial movement requires the non threaded portion of the splines to be lightly peened. This great video earned my subscription! The next step is typically polishing the fit between the stock's fore-end cap and the gas system, and removing about 1/8" to a 1/4" from the upper heat shield where it meets the action. Some folks epoxy glue the front of the hand guard... some weld or use screws to bind the hand guard /front band to the gas system...all this is to reduce movement of these components and the resulting changes in barrel harmonics/accuracy. GREAT VIDEO!!!
Thank you for your kind words and for passing that information to me. In hot rod vernacular, this rifle won't become a custom chopper. Though I'm an accuracy aficionado, my interest is to do whatever I might to improve its accuracy, but while maintaining its stock configuration. The very first thing I did with the rifle was to address the seriously bad rear sight wiggle, which you can see in an earlier video. The front end splines on this gun are dead tight with no radial play whatsoever, though for reasons I cannot determine by measurement--and there's no barrel cant--, it was necessary for me to drift the front sight an unSIGHTLY 1/8" off center. S.A. is allowing rather gross QC issues to fly with the Standard, which I hope is not intentionally designed to advance their high end price points. This rifle is capable of fine accuracy, demonstrated by a perfectly round ten shot 2 MOA group with very sloppy bedding and factory match ammo, so I'm hopeful that it will shine by the time I get finished and feed it carefully developed handloads.
Thanks again.
@@GunBlue490 all good points. I forgot to mention that it's fairly easy to stone the hammer and sear to remove any gritty feel and reduce trigger weight to 3.5 to 4 lbs... Essentially the same as tuning a garand trigger
@@tomhoodjr Actually, this rifle came with an excellent, crisp NM trigger. Thanks again! You might enjoy seeing my earlier TH-cam demonstration on tuning a Min-14 trigger to perfect crispness, too.
@@GunBlue490 👍
Good advice! I prefer the Unitized Gas System versus utilizing shims, but most cannot apply the UGS properly by adhering to strict tolerances in doing so. Which Unitizing and Bedding go hand in hand to enhance accuracy, however a poorly installed UGS can have the opposite effect, as well as shims. That is why many utilize shims, it's much easier. Only other advice I can give is don't use shims and a UGS together, and if you shim so tight it can't move at all. you are crushing the shims and torquing the barrel which will change the Point of Impact and as you state effecting barrel harmonics/accuracy.
Great Video GunBlue490, and I subscribed few videos ago myself. Also, thank you for your service to this Nation!
The people at Badger ridge are top notch!
If you have a remington 700 ml , their 209 primer breach plug update kit is excellent.
Another excellent video, thanks GunBlue.
Great video. I always learn something.
My favorite military rifle on the planet! Nice rifle!
I learn something with every one of your videos I watch. Thanks.
According to Mr. GunBlue490, I've been over-shimming my gas lock. This is different from Tony Ben's videos. I've been shimming to have "lock-up" begin at 5:00, then forcing it into 6:00 alignment to receive the gas plug.. This video says to go BEYOND 6:00 and have lock-up at 7:00. I've also been torquing my gas plug to 140 in.-lbs. GunBlue490 appears to be tightening to maybe 1/3 of that. My groups have been suffering since I last shimmed my gas system. I'll give this a try today. THANK YOU !!
How did it shoot afterwards?
How did it shoot afterwards?
This series of videos have been a wonderful education! Thank you for making them…
I do have one question on the M1a, and that is about scope mounts…
I have not heard good things about any particular one, so I’m curious if you have had success with any particular one?
Thanks again for the education 👍
Thank you for what you do very informative. I just purchased my first Springfield M1A scout and look forward to sighting it in I will defiantly give Badger Ridge business when it comes to tightening the gas tube. I didn't even think to use a white crayon for marking the elevation knob. Great to know that there is a community here that looks to inform and enjoys what they do god bless.
The way I did mine ,I clock mine at a 5:30 and at that position you should feel resistances and apply a little pressure to the 6:30 and it should not go any further . I pinged the guide on the barrel were you slide the gas cylinder on and the reason is their was a little wiggle "to left and right and that fixes that problem. My moa now is 1 3/4 at 100yards. This is not bad for a m1a standard. I forgot I bought a n/m rear sight I had to hand fit to have a tight rear sight because Springfield rear sight wiggle and the nipple on the side of the elevation came right off lol .
I refer you to my rear sight glass bedding video.
@@GunBlue490 that is a great video.
Bent the hell out of two different brass punches and castle nut didn't budge. Got the SA castle nut wrench and after penetrating oil soaking overnight I was able to finally free it with a bit of elbow grease.
Hey GunBlue, if you're accepting suggestions I've got a couple video ideas. Think you could do a video on hunting camouflage of the old days? Maybe a video of you going over some hunting stories you've accumulated over the years. One on small game hunting tactics, particularly rabbit and squirrel, would be great, too.
Keep up the phenomenal work!
Another great video on a great rifle. Thanks
Thank you, I just put together my Lee reloading stand. Ready to start reloading now that I’m retired. Your videos helped me with being patient. Just getting out of being self employed for almost 30 years, and rushing was my middle name. No need to rush , especially with reloading.
Congratulations for making it to retirement! Absolutely take your time and taylor your loads to your own exacting excellence. For anyone reading this that's a new reloader remember *HASTE MAKES KABOOM* 💥🚑
I’ve just recently discovered your channel and hats off to you sir. I also have some 1911s and an M1a national match and I’ve really enjoyed your content. You do a very nice job of clearly explaining instructions and give very good advice for all topics covered. Cheers to you and hope to see many more videos!!!!
Very informative and easy to follow video. The explanation of every step is appreciated. Badger Ridge squared me away with a .008 fix. Now to get to the range.
Thanks
Thanks for the video, I installed the rings on my new "loaded" M1A and took the exact rings you needed for yours. However, if you are dealing with a new rifle, it is not easy peasy - you are going to need that "Stupid Castle Nut Plier" as well as the special tool that fits over the gas tube to provide the leverage to get it loose. I tried it your way first to no avail. Buggered up the castle nut in the process without it moving at all. The first quart to a half turn required some very serious torque to get it off. I don't know whether this was because I have a stainless steel barrel or if Springfield Armory torques them down excessively at the factory. I very much respect your expertise and even purchased a Mini 14 based on your recommendation. Take Care
Excellent video. I will order the Badger shims then work on my M1A.
Thank you sir,injoyed the fine tuning, bedding, time to get you loaded powder rite 👍☕️☕️
Your castle nut came out remarkably easily. Most M1A castle nuts are very tightly fixed, and it takes a combination of solvents, heat, and very rigorous tapping to remove them this way. I've destroyed an entire set of brass drift punches trying to remove them this way.
Thanks My national match M14 was already tight and all of these places so I'm not sure it will help but I do plan on bedding it in the future
Thank you so much for another great and informative video!
Love when the older generations pass down there tips of the trade to us younger guys
GB, after this and the bedding video, are we going to see some more range time with the rifle to determine accuracy improvements? Thanks for all the superb videos!
Good morning,
I am writing from Italy, congratulations for your truly instructive videos. I recently purchased an M1A and I also wanted to purchase the set of shims, the company you indicated ships to the USA and CANADA, I had found it on the UBUY website but due to customs restrictions in Italy they cannot ship the item to me. I wanted to ask if it was possible to have the specifications of these shims so that I can have them reproduced.
Greetings from Italy.
GREAT video - Thanks fer sharing !!
My M1A's will be performing better because of your instructional videos! Who needs these specialty tools😅😅😅
I have the Castle Nut Pliers and used them once long ago. Didn't care for them. I've seen brass drift punch sets out there, but they're pretty expensive. Haven't found a source yet for the German Silver Rod. Any suggestions there? Also, how best to cut / prepare it for use? Thanks for great, detailed instructions in these videos! I've learned a LOT!
Another superb instructional video, Thank you sir and thank you for saving me $40.
thank you..I purchased an m1a that had this done but I'm pretty sure the wrong way... too tight I'm assuming because the shims were all split in two. I ordered the shim kit and did it according to your method. hopefully I'm good to go now...
Interesting tune up trick.🙂
Thank you
Will the bedding compound used for the walnut stock also work on Springfield's polymer stock, i.e. is the process you've demonstrated usable on the synthetic stock? If not, are there alternatives available? Thanks for these M1A DIY videos!
Acraglas holds perfectly on polymer. Just rough it up.
Very impressed smart man I learned a lot thanks keep up the good work
Nice rifle.
I wish I lived next door to you, I would be at your house all the time.
I realize this is an older video. Could you explain to me how this improves the accuracy.
Thanks for saving me some money!
Great video! Great instruction! What is the thread size of the castle nut? Thank You in advance!
I don't know what the thread size and pitch is.
The gas system should be unitized either the Army way with screws or the USMC way by tigging the band to the cylinder.
Where does one obtain "German silver" ? Great video, and only twenty years too late in my case. ;-)
I obtained mine from the Armorer's School at Smith and Wesson. You can get enough for yourself and several friends at Online Metals. It's also called nickel silver. Their one foot .25" round bar can be cut into three 4" lengths and filed to various shaped ends for any number of precision uses! Only $16.24. Longer lengths available.
Thank you for this. I tried my brass punch but castle nut won't budge and broke the brass punch 😂. I just ordered one from online metals. Hope to get it soon
Great, informative video. Any idea where I can get a rear sight for an M1 Garand?
Sure, try AmmoGarand.com
Nice.
I have a question would someone need to put shims in if they had problems with spent brass not ejecting properly after putting on a scope mount? Unfortunately I can't run to the range to test out my M1A, I live in the city . But anyways thank you so much for your videos sir.
At 9:40 in the video, you use the feeler gauges. I wonder if you could slip the edge of the shims in-between, from the outside, as you tighten in the same manner as the gauge, thereby getting the same measurement while not buying a tool.
Yes, you can do that. The feeler gauges simply provide a more precise measurement from which to build the shim stack.
gunblue, been following this series and own a m1a scout model. i was wanting to shim my gas tube, while replacing the factory installed compensator with a standard flash hider. i tried your method, with a brass punch. no luck it kept shearing the end of the punch off. it is right hand threads correct? anyways went from brass to steel to pliers and still can’t get the castle nut to budge. yes removed set screw. should it be that tight? and of course by now my castle nut is dinged up pretty good from my efforts. would you recommend buying nut pliers , or cutting and splitting nut , replacing it with a new one??? is there anything different that you would recommend?
You've got me puzzled. It's a standard right hand thread, and they are typically not very tight. However, if you have a California approved model, the device is welded in place and cannot be modified in order to prevent alteration.
A-men! Thanks.
I wanted to add that I’m trying to change my front sight on my Ruger Mini 14 Ranch Rifle. I purchased a front sight pulled tool, any tips on how to make this an easier process as I don’t want to gaffe this up? Thanks again 😊
The tool should simplify things. Just follow their instructions carefully, and avoid contact with the crown of the barrel.
just put shims in got them from co. you did pretty tight to get to alignment but too loose with smaller shims what's the problem if too tight i can get it to line up by hand but it's not loose like yours was. thanks
Only accurate Larry Potterfields are interesting.
I think I'm ready for an M1A.
Hi Grandpa Gunblue, is there a recommended torque to that gas tube nut? Thank you.
Too much has been made of this. It's a very fine pitch thread with huge holding power for a reason. Fine threads resist loosening, and it was designed to be removed and replaced by soldiers in the field with the issued multitool carried in the stock. Fighting men didn't carry torque wrenches or anti seize thread dope. Its only job is to hold parts in place, and no degree of torque has anything to do with accuracy. Just snug it a bit more than a bottle cap. Too much torque on fine threads will unnecessarily seize them.
@@GunBlue490 thank you 😊
I have the pliers and they work great for me. Great video
Oh Thanks a lot GB490!
I had just invested 100 percent of my retirement funds into Castle Nut Pliers!!!
Well, Hopefully Reincarnation is real and I'll get another chance to invest wisely. Ha!
Another Great video.
Best Wishes from Montana M.H.
Thank you. Those were expensive pliers, indeed! But there's no reincarnation. God did it perfectly the first time with His Creation. He created each of us to live this one life, forever, and to be resurrected, just as Jesus proved on Easter day 2,000 years ago.
We don't swap souls or species. The most important thing is to seek our eternity and our resurrection with Christ in Paradise, not resurrection to eternal sorrow in hell.
Of course I know there is no reincarnation. Merely a joke. I too Believe in the Kingdom of God. My Relationship with God brings me much Joy.
I try to keep Gratitude for all that I have in the forefront of my mind. This focuses me on the positive and helps me not waste time on what I cannot control. This also keeps me in a positive frame of mind that helps me be a better example of Christianity.
Thank you for taking the time to make sure I am on the correct path.
My Sincerest Best Wishes! M.H.
hey! neat! =)
I'd use a gunsmith's brass punch to loosen a castle or crown nut and tighten it.
German silver is a gunsmith punch. It was given to me at the Smith and Wesson factory during my training in 1975. There's no better. You can buy a long rod to make three of these for less than $17.
🏆
Lol masters degree comment ! New hampshire is Gods country im stuck down here as a masshole
Any substitute for the M60 oil?
What if you cut the shim to prevent taking of the muzzle brake is that ok
I recommend doing as I showed.
I always watch you,your great!!
Dear Sir, Where can I get German Silver like you have ? Thanks
There are so many sources that I couldn't possibly begin to list them. Look up either German silver rod or nickel silver rod and choose from the many available. Mine is 1/4"x4", but you can get anything you want, very reasonably priced. The ends are easily filed to any working shape.
@@GunBlue490 thank you very much