This video will demonstrate how to remove the flash hider/devise from a M14 M1A. The hex screw is .062 inches, the front sight (not necessary to remove) is .092 inches.
These muzzle removal videos are almost non existent , wish I could have filmed my 1 day removal of my TRW flash hider , galled, rusted on , and the 3 day episode of the Ploytech removal , ended up with a cutoff wheel and a cold chisel , I still have never found the proper size allen key for these little beast's , but I did leave a film only of anti seize on the 3 guide slots this time , when the temp gets below 127 in the garage around October , I will check out my anti damper set screws like you have , any way great work , well done series , thanks.
I tried to get the castle nut loose with a punch No good really worried about buggering it up and not getting it off .But then I bought the specialTool and it came loose real easy.I took off the Springfield armory one because it didn't have a bayonet lug . Great videos!!
I just wanted to make sure those grooves at the end of the muzzle were as they were when I took off the brake in the first place so I didn't do anything stupid like try and hammer the brake back in when I was done cleaning. Thank you
I really impressed how much more accurate it the rifle became after I was able to get the welded OEM one off , shot it yesterday useing Federal XM80CL , very impressive results , money well spent. Norwich93 has a slew of great video"s
@@norwich93CMP we both answered my question. I'm a cheapskate but always looking for a short cut. Not so on this one. I gave it a few shots of Kroil and WD mix and let sit for a day. Went after it with a nylon drift then a brass punch. Nope. Not even a budge. So before I could go full gorilla on it I bit the bullet and got the spanner pliers. Glad I did. Even after I got after it with the spanner and chucked up in a aluminum/cloth vise, it still took some bull work to get the little beastie to pop. After that piece of cake. So, take it from me mr. Short cut Cheapskate, GET THE SPANNER PLIERS. Again, thanks man. It looks awesome with bayonet fixed too.
I bought the Springfield Armory M1A last March brand new , I then ordered the spanner wrench , and the flash hider with the bayonet lug. I watched the videos and used the allen wrench first to remove the set screw as directed and then the Spanner Wrench, the castle nut never moved, a buddy of mine is a machinest by trade, he tried nothing And I soaked the nut in oil and tried after letting it sit for a couple of days nothing. I have since fired it a few times works great and I have had a number of medical issues , related to MRSA and another infection. In October they amputated my left leg 12 inches below the knee, the was my 33rd operation since 2009. I want the bayonet lug flash hider on my M1A, should I send back to Springfield Armory ? D I d they use red loctite?
I bought a used M1-A and it didn't have the bayonet lug. So I bought a GI flash hider an used a punch and couldn't budge the castle nut ,I was afraid of marring it all up. Then I bought a special pliers for about $20 bucks and it worked real easy. Well worth the money.
That castle nut set screw is the biggest pain the ass to get back on. I tried tightening it back on with an Allen wrench, but it just wanted to keep cross-threading on me and the SOB just broke on me. Do I really need that screw if I'm just using the rifle for recreational shooting?
The screwdriver tip seems to be best as you can feel the resistance better than an allen wrench in my opinion. When threading screws back in I will align the best I can and turn counterclockwise to hear/feel a click and the screw will fall in a little bit which tells me the threads are aligned before tightening. Great question and hope the info helps.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks. I appreciate the reply. I'll just leave it as it is without the set screw. I really don't feel like paying $3 for a part that probably didn't cost them 3 cents to make.
You can get a Smith Enterprises 5/8x24" adapter that's essentially the splined front sight base but with common 5/8x24 threads on the end instead of the closed tine flash suppressor. At that point you can just buy whatever .308 AR muzzle brake you want and thread it on.
These muzzle removal videos are almost non existent , wish I could have filmed my 1 day removal of my TRW flash hider , galled, rusted on , and the 3 day episode of the Ploytech removal , ended up with a cutoff wheel and a cold chisel , I still have never found the proper size allen key for these little beast's , but I did leave a film only of anti seize on the 3 guide slots this time , when the temp gets below 127 in the garage around October , I will check out my anti damper set screws like you have , any way great work , well done series , thanks.
Thank you for the great comments, much appreciated.
I tried to get the castle nut loose with a punch No good really worried about buggering it up and not getting it off .But then I bought the specialTool and it came loose real easy.I took off the Springfield armory one because it didn't have a bayonet lug . Great videos!!
Thanks for this video. I'll be needing this when I get myself an M1A down the road.
Nice!!!
I just wanted to make sure those grooves at the end of the muzzle were as they were when I took off the brake in the first place so I didn't do anything stupid like try and hammer the brake back in when I was done cleaning. Thank you
You're welcome
thanks so much for this video!
Very informative. Thank you for making this available.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome! Putting a suppressor on mine
I bought a used Springfield armory M1-A ,and it didn't have a bayonet lug so I got a mil. Surplus one from Numrich gun Parts. It went on perfect.
I really impressed how much more accurate it the rifle became after I was able to get the welded OEM one off , shot it yesterday useing Federal XM80CL , very impressive results , money well spent. Norwich93 has a slew of great video"s
Thank you very much!!!
Special bit is a Security Hex Key
THanks for the video was needing this
Nice to hear that it helped you. Thank you.
Hey Rob thank's always wondered how that was on there
Your welcome Steve O!
Are the treads 5/8 x 24?
Thanks man. 7/64" and 1/16" are the hex wrenches. Do you absolutely need the spanner pliers?
No but using other methods may damage the nut. Pliers fit very nice but a nylon punch should work fine.
@@norwich93CMP we both answered my question. I'm a cheapskate but always looking for a short cut. Not so on this one. I gave it a few shots of Kroil and WD mix and let sit for a day. Went after it with a nylon drift then a brass punch. Nope. Not even a budge. So before I could go full gorilla on it I bit the bullet and got the spanner pliers. Glad I did. Even after I got after it with the spanner and chucked up in a aluminum/cloth vise, it still took some bull work to get the little beastie to pop. After that piece of cake. So, take it from me mr. Short cut Cheapskate, GET THE SPANNER PLIERS.
Again, thanks man. It looks awesome with bayonet fixed too.
I bought the Springfield Armory M1A last March brand new , I then ordered the spanner wrench , and the flash hider with the bayonet lug.
I watched the videos and used the allen wrench first to remove the set screw as directed and then the Spanner Wrench, the castle nut never moved, a buddy of mine is a machinest by trade, he tried nothing
And I soaked the nut in oil and tried after letting it sit for a couple of days nothing.
I have since fired it a few times works great and I have had a number of medical issues , related to MRSA and another infection. In October they amputated my left leg 12 inches below the knee, the was my 33rd operation since 2009.
I want the bayonet lug flash hider on my M1A, should I send back to Springfield Armory ?
D I d they use red loctite?
I bought a used M1-A and it didn't have the bayonet lug. So I bought a GI flash hider an used a punch and couldn't budge the castle nut ,I was afraid of marring it all up. Then I bought a special pliers for about $20 bucks and it worked real easy. Well worth the money.
@@marktercsak9728 I hope you got your gun fixed. I had to have the bayonet lug for the Vietnam style look.🪖🙏
That castle nut set screw is the biggest pain the ass to get back on. I tried tightening it back on with an Allen wrench, but it just wanted to keep cross-threading on me and the SOB just broke on me. Do I really need that screw if I'm just using the rifle for recreational shooting?
The screwdriver tip seems to be best as you can feel the resistance better than an allen wrench in my opinion. When threading screws back in I will align the best I can and turn counterclockwise to hear/feel a click and the screw will fall in a little bit which tells me the threads are aligned before tightening. Great question and hope the info helps.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks. I appreciate the reply. I'll just leave it as it is without the set screw. I really don't feel like paying $3 for a part that probably didn't cost them 3 cents to make.
If you're not interested in accuracy then it may be fine but I wouldn't trust it not having one. $3 is not worth being injured.
When replacing the castle nut, how tight should it be?
Snugged and then staked.
Hello which size of the bit head is good?
Could any muzzle break be used with that sight & castle-nut like an aftermarket .308 muzzle break???
Sorry, I don't know. I generally stick to USGI parts and rarely dwell into the aftermarket side.
You can get a Smith Enterprises 5/8x24" adapter that's essentially the splined front sight base but with common 5/8x24 threads on the end instead of the closed tine flash suppressor. At that point you can just buy whatever .308 AR muzzle brake you want and thread it on.
62 thousands is essentially 1/16"
What is the best way to loosen a stubborn castle nut?
Penetrating oil and the tool used by the military. Don't forget its staked in place so it will take more effort to remove it.
Some aftermarket nut pliers are soft and bend if it's stuck so kroil helps and a good tool. I had to make a spanner to get one off a GI barrel
@@norwich93CMP Staked?
Tried looking for that tool can’t find it anywhere
Can someone tell me the actually name of the tools used for castle nut?
"Wrench - 779493 Rifle M14"
Sir have you ever unitized a gas cylinder? Ty.
Nope I have not.
*Makes it a pain in the ass to suppress.*