Great video! Any chance you have the dimensions on that fan setup? I'm working on an E Fan conversion on a G body. Radiator core I'm working with is 26 1/4 by 16 3/4. Which year Contour is that out of? Thanks!
Here’s the video where I tested the OEM vs aftermarket replacement. The OEM fans were available out of the Contours and Mercury Cougars and Mystics with the 2.5L V6s. The cheap aftermarket TYC 620750 beat the OEM fan pretty bad. The radiator is a Champion CC2379. Core 24 wide x16.25 high. Fan depth is about 3.50-3.75” th-cam.com/video/8NTFLv3hASw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z5Zqtcmg-ifrgjom
@@justineaton6281 I think many (if not all) the new kits come with a screw in units, but the sensor is designed to be tapped into the radiator rather than the t-stat housing. T-stat housings are usually full of curves which can make finding a good spot to drill and tap without leaks pretty hard. Manufacturers use intake manifolds, but that could be catastrophic if you drill in the wrong spot, and drilling holes while on the car could cause a lot of debris to get into the system. The problem with what you’re suggesting could be signal incompatibility. The push in probe might send a signal of “x” resistance for 200* while the screw in unit might be “y” resistance at 200*. It would make sense for the resistance levels to be universal, but they’re not. Different cars / gauges have different specs for resistance ranges they expect.
Not sure if you figured out your issue or not but they do sell those sleeves that you can put on your upper radiator hose, you basically cut your hose and the sleeve goes in the middle, its usually anodized and it has a threaded port for a screw on sensor,I'm working on that at the moment, my one year radiator has started leaking (cheapo ebay aluminum radiator) and i got another new expensive radiator but before i install it in checking out different options. I have a really nice electric fan but it uses one of those probes you gotta stick in the radiator and every time i do that i think i take a few years of my life span, specially when you have a 3/500 dollar radiator,not a big fan of those probes,they do work though and i have used them before with success but like i said, i just hate driving them in, sticking something between the fins of a radiator is like jumping out of a plane,not natural,lol
I wasn’t able to find any controllers for dual fans and dual speeds for what I considered a reasonable price. For me, spending $200 on a fan controller wasn’t a reasonable option.
I run the same fans, I use 3 relays and a dual temp thermal switch, and no failures in 6 years running.
What if you're running one dual speed fan? Do you use just one of each wire or run both wires to the one fan?
From the instructions I found online:
Remove or tie off the second orange and blue wire if only one fan is used.
@@randomologist77thank you
Great video! Any chance you have the dimensions on that fan setup? I'm working on an E Fan conversion on a G body. Radiator core I'm working with is 26 1/4 by 16 3/4. Which year Contour is that out of? Thanks!
Here’s the video where I tested the OEM vs aftermarket replacement. The OEM fans were available out of the Contours and Mercury Cougars and Mystics with the 2.5L V6s. The cheap aftermarket TYC 620750 beat the OEM fan pretty bad. The radiator is a Champion CC2379. Core 24 wide x16.25 high. Fan depth is about 3.50-3.75”
th-cam.com/video/8NTFLv3hASw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z5Zqtcmg-ifrgjom
Can i remove the probe and use a sending unit the screws into my tstat housing?
@@justineaton6281 I think many (if not all) the new kits come with a screw in units, but the sensor is designed to be tapped into the radiator rather than the t-stat housing. T-stat housings are usually full of curves which can make finding a good spot to drill and tap without leaks pretty hard. Manufacturers use intake manifolds, but that could be catastrophic if you drill in the wrong spot, and drilling holes while on the car could cause a lot of debris to get into the system. The problem with what you’re suggesting could be signal incompatibility. The push in probe might send a signal of “x” resistance for 200* while the screw in unit might be “y” resistance at 200*. It would make sense for the resistance levels to be universal, but they’re not. Different cars / gauges have different specs for resistance ranges they expect.
Not sure if you figured out your issue or not but they do sell those sleeves that you can put on your upper radiator hose, you basically cut your hose and the sleeve goes in the middle, its usually anodized and it has a threaded port for a screw on sensor,I'm working on that at the moment, my one year radiator has started leaking (cheapo ebay aluminum radiator) and i got another new expensive radiator but before i install it in checking out different options.
I have a really nice electric fan but it uses one of those probes you gotta stick in the radiator and every time i do that i think i take a few years of my life span, specially when you have a 3/500 dollar radiator,not a big fan of those probes,they do work though and i have used them before with success but like i said, i just hate driving them in, sticking something between the fins of a radiator is like jumping out of a plane,not natural,lol
Joe those controllers are garbage and 100 times overpriced
I wasn’t able to find any controllers for dual fans and dual speeds for what I considered a reasonable price. For me, spending $200 on a fan controller wasn’t a reasonable option.