@@justineaton6281 I think many (if not all) the new kits come with a screw in units, but the sensor is designed to be tapped into the radiator rather than the t-stat housing. T-stat housings are usually full of curves which can make finding a good spot to drill and tap without leaks pretty hard. Manufacturers use intake manifolds, but that could be catastrophic if you drill in the wrong spot, and drilling holes while on the car could cause a lot of debris to get into the system. The problem with what you’re suggesting could be signal incompatibility. The push in probe might send a signal of “x” resistance for 200* while the screw in unit might be “y” resistance at 200*. It would make sense for the resistance levels to be universal, but they’re not. Different cars / gauges have different specs for resistance ranges they expect.
Great video! Any chance you have the dimensions on that fan setup? I'm working on an E Fan conversion on a G body. Radiator core I'm working with is 26 1/4 by 16 3/4. Which year Contour is that out of? Thanks!
Here’s the video where I tested the OEM vs aftermarket replacement. The OEM fans were available out of the Contours and Mercury Cougars and Mystics with the 2.5L V6s. The cheap aftermarket TYC 620750 beat the OEM fan pretty bad. The radiator is a Champion CC2379. Core 24 wide x16.25 high. Fan depth is about 3.50-3.75” th-cam.com/video/8NTFLv3hASw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z5Zqtcmg-ifrgjom
I run the same fans, I use 3 relays and a dual temp thermal switch, and no failures in 6 years running.
Can i remove the probe and use a sending unit the screws into my tstat housing?
@@justineaton6281 I think many (if not all) the new kits come with a screw in units, but the sensor is designed to be tapped into the radiator rather than the t-stat housing. T-stat housings are usually full of curves which can make finding a good spot to drill and tap without leaks pretty hard. Manufacturers use intake manifolds, but that could be catastrophic if you drill in the wrong spot, and drilling holes while on the car could cause a lot of debris to get into the system. The problem with what you’re suggesting could be signal incompatibility. The push in probe might send a signal of “x” resistance for 200* while the screw in unit might be “y” resistance at 200*. It would make sense for the resistance levels to be universal, but they’re not. Different cars / gauges have different specs for resistance ranges they expect.
What if you're running one dual speed fan? Do you use just one of each wire or run both wires to the one fan?
From the instructions I found online:
Remove or tie off the second orange and blue wire if only one fan is used.
@@randomologist77thank you
Great video! Any chance you have the dimensions on that fan setup? I'm working on an E Fan conversion on a G body. Radiator core I'm working with is 26 1/4 by 16 3/4. Which year Contour is that out of? Thanks!
Here’s the video where I tested the OEM vs aftermarket replacement. The OEM fans were available out of the Contours and Mercury Cougars and Mystics with the 2.5L V6s. The cheap aftermarket TYC 620750 beat the OEM fan pretty bad. The radiator is a Champion CC2379. Core 24 wide x16.25 high. Fan depth is about 3.50-3.75”
th-cam.com/video/8NTFLv3hASw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z5Zqtcmg-ifrgjom