If you can tell us why it wont start, I WILL GIVE YOU.....
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- We save another fox body Mustang, but it wont friggin start! If you can tell us why, I will give you a $100 gift card to @latemodelrestoration
WIN PROJECT “TWO TONE”, and:
-Over $1,000 in drawings every month
-See all the videos before they are released to the public
-Pop up drawings
SIGN UP NOW: : bit.ly/2Fk4GtU
Silver Sport Trans code: FOXSWAG
Detroit Speed Code: FOXCAST
Hot links:
latemodelres.t...
www.detroitspe...
mustangweek.com
www.buystiffle...
ourdreamauto.com
pbhperformance...
www.jaxwax.com
shiftsst.com
Stay connected:
Instagram: @foxcast_media
Facebook: foxcastmedia
Website: www.thefoxcast.com
Email: caleb@thefoxcast.com - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Awesome car! when you first turned the key I didn't hear the ole foxbody fuel pump sound. my guess is the fuel pump, inertia switch, or the fuse links/wiring in between. You all will get it going! Excited to see more of it!
Been there man! If the inertia switch and the fuel pump relay are good it could be the wiring to the pump or the pump itself.
I agree that the pump wiring and possibly the relay itself should be looked at and checked from pump to engine bay. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine and turn the engine over to verify with a PSI (mmHg) gauge on it would be even more helpful. Just a thought.
1. Disconnect fuel line. See if you’re getting fuel to the front. If not change fuel filter
2. Since no power to the fuel pump check inertia switch brown wire i believe. Wire from the front power is green/yellow
3. Relay swap with one out of the hundreds from your yard lol and see if its relay. You got it tho its right under the intake tube
4. Check spark. That annoying little plug (pip sensor) that is connected to the dizzy was my achilles heel. Suckers would always heat soak or spontaneously fail.
When are you guy gonna open a shop. I'm willing to make the drive to get my car worked on. Man you guys have to much talent not to have you own shop. Let's make it happen. God bless you brother. Love the channel by the way 👍.
They have their own shop on the channel unless you mean mainstream on town etc. They got a good thing going on in the country
Check battery negative to block and to body. Check all relays and fuses. Is the rotor button in the distributor lol.
I had a bad connection with a ground wire that connects to the body that helps the ecu with its ground circuits.
Fuel cut off switch or the fuel pump relay is on the Fritz had that happen to mine bought a new relay and good to go, swap the ac and fuel relay and see if that fixes it
So, funny this pops up.
I've been kmember/stroker/long tube swapping my '86 for the last 6 years (yes, years) and it's slowed to a dead snails pace because I COULD NOT get the ECU to fire the pump. Headlights work, HVAC, door dinger, everything. Replaced relays, ignition module, checked grounds 10 times, even had the ECU sent out to check and recap. Pump would only run when jumped using the test port.
Just as I'm resigned to spending $2500 on a Holley and digital dash... saw THIS VIDEO and the resolution video and it motivated me. Popped a blade terminal into the ECU ground, screwed it under the negative terminal on the battery temporarily, hit the key today and Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
I'm beside myself. Stupid auto part store negative terminal's accessory ground wire ate it internally when I repainted the engine bay. What are the odds. #facepalm
Have faith in Dover he will figure it out. Man is full of talent and know how plus he is about the fastest dude to throw something together that he can do it blindfolded.
Any crank no start concern I’ve had with my Fox has always been the TFI module or the Distributor it’s self. Every single time.
Who doesn't love a Reef Blue coupe? 🔥🔥
Fusible link on the harness near the driver strut tower.
I'd say a bad primary coil.
On early EFI cars, before coil packs started to handle both primary and secondary coil responsibilities (Primary: Jumping the 12V DC to the high voltage needed to run; Secondary: low-voltage requirement needed to burn unburned fuel due to EGR), there was a separate coil from the cap and rotor on the distributor. This is the first thing I would check, and it's the easiest to fix.
Second: Most early '90s Fords had an inertial shut-off switch, located at the passenger side of the trans tunnel, under the dash. Make sure that switch is off, and in good working order -- otherwise, the fuel pump won't run.
Third, check the EFI Hall Effect crank timing sensor. Without this sensor and the circuit in proper working order, the car won't fire, because the computer will think the timing of the car isn't functioning. And therefore, no spark will reach the distributor or plugs.
Try swapping the fuel pump and check the wires on the fuel pump. Make sure the battery is good. Some relays would make it not run
the fox body is gonna be my next build im currently trying to rebuild a 98 gt.
You had me at 98 gt
It's always been my favorite I've had 7 foxbody so far i currently got a 83,86,and sn95 it's super expensive when you have more then one the 83 t tops is my daily driver I'm tig welding up some headers for the 460 swap in for the 86 to save money to fix the 96 because I put it into a telephone pole over the winter GOOD LUCK
The fuel pump is controlled by a relay and its power comes from the starter relay. both don't appear to be working, so, starter relay gets power through 2 fusible links: Batt Charge Link (14 Gauge, green wire on one end, brown on the other) and an alternator link (18 Gauge, yellow wire on one end, brown on the other.) Trace your wiring back from the starter relay (green wire) with key in start position, until you hit 12VDC to ground. It will likely be on one side of a blown link, or you'll find another bad connection along the way. It will be a short path to check though. Good luck!
I am a shade tree mechanic . Not a certified ASE mechanic. Sorry guys . Also make sure you have a good ground from the body to the starter motor have a put a heavy duty ground on it that would also help it a lot. Also make sure you use brand new battery cables do not use the quick connects there are not any good. I had a Sears DieHard battery blow up on me literally no joke make sure you use and brand new cables. And don't forget Derek does to fuel pump relays are located app above your air conditioner switches up under the dash towards the top. They were on mine. I learned the hard way.
On my Ford Mustang if I had the money to do it I would put a overhauled V6 engine in it not a V8 I would have I want better fuel mileage but with a little bit of Pep although I know you could do the 2300 engine to do that but I don't want to Turbo and I don't want a supercharger in it.
Sure u checked for fuel pressure but if not. I have seen the fuel pump s line that connects the fuel pump to the outlet pipe on the hanger they tend to rot around where the fuel clamps are and blow off all the fuel back in the tank.
Keep me posted!!!! I will continue to think about this.
Check the main wire harness that goes to the ignition switch under the steering column. Make sure the four tangs are holding the switch tightly to the column.
Yep. Replaced one on my car. When it gets loose all electrical on the column shorts out.
but it is still getting power. when minde ignition switch went out i had zero power. it sounds like a starter problem to me
I'd suggest checking 4 spark maybe a defective ign module under distributor or coil, also I'd still keep an eye on the ignition switch,, so what I'd do is determine ignition switch power to coil and module then 4 spark using noise light,, another thought is how about the fuel injectors are they turning on? I'd hook fuel pressure gauge to test port and watch it prime ( only cycle key couple times ) look at psi, then crank it 2 see it drop pressure,, if it drops a little pressure during cranking then they are working,, another thought is to pull couple of spark plugs 2 see if they're wet w fuel,, you'll get running,, I'm not a ford fan I actually hate ford but these mustang's and lincoln mark vii are my favorites they're great cars!! Nice video you'll get it running!
Other than the paint needs some loving, the car is a nice foxbody. I would guess electrical, since you
are jumping the starter solenoid, i would guess is no power to the coil for the distributor.
Did you check the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal, that will stop you in your tracks.
Yesssssir
@@FoxcastMedia Has there ever been any kind of alarm system on the car ? If so rip all of it out.
If the natural safety switch is bad will it the car still crank over I thought if the natural safety was cooked it would not even crank.
Check the wires for the relays under the mass air. The insulation on my wires crumbled off and the wire looked burnt. I cut off damaged wires and replaced them. It turned on. Just one of those things. Good luck!
Friend had a Ford truck with a 5.0, quit rolling down the freeway. After MUCH cussing and hair pulling turned out to be the fuel pump relay socket itself in the power distribution box was failing. Wired another from a junkyard in did the trick.
New means new does not necessarily mean that the starter or anyting electronic is going to work. Try it before you stick it in there you could save a lot of time.
Check the fuel cut off in the trunk of the car
Check the ground for voltage. Grab dvom and hook it up too the ground wires on your tps or any other sensor that runs off the ground. If you have voltage then ur pin 46 ground signal is fried and won’t let the car turn on. Quick way totest grab a extra wire and ground the ground wire.
TFI MODULE, Bad ground, fuel pump, ecu, bad plugs, short circuited the system and burnt up fuseable links, ignition switch, off timing, neutral safety switch went bad.
check for power yellow wire ignition switch to fuse links goes to fuel pump and ecm and the blue wire to block /black/orange wires from ign sw to eec relay, also check your grounds , some times just putting a ground strap from engine to body and neg to body can solve problems
Get your wiring diagram and test light out. The ignition switch goes to a plastic module on the steering column that does all that. Just saying, not sure if you guys know. The ignition switch itself doesn't actually do anything except push the rod that moves the usually white module on the column
You should see the heap I'm trying to put back together ..its a 91..needs all interior . (gray) plus the trim.lol
Pull the distributor and leave everything hooked up. Now turn the key on and spin the distributor shaft by hand with everything hooked up and see if the injectors and fuel pump cycle. If it doesn’t it’s the pick up coil in the distributor. Happened to me one time and made me question all my mechanic skills
Caleb you were the one that advised me that the ethyl blend gas will kill a fuel pump if it sits! Turns out, you were right. Tank was shot, too... tons of rust. Get yourself a new fuel pump, pronto. Don't forget to blow the stainless fuel line out from the rear at the fuel pump connection. You can open the Schrader valve up front to do it. That way you make sure your injectors don't have to swallow that nasty old gas. Good luck, brotha!
You know this already but hey 100 bucks would help lol The power path picks up from a fuse link near the starter relay. Fuse links are like
fuses, except they are pieces of wire and are made right into the wiring harness.
The feed wire from the fuse link (pink/black wire) goes to the fuel pump relay
contacts. When the contacts close because the relay energizes, the power flows
through the pink/black wire to the contacts and through the dark green\yellow
wire to the inertia switch. The other side of the inertia switch with the
brown\pink wire joins the pink/black wire that connects to the fuel pump. The fuel
pump has a black wire that supplies the ground to complete the circuit.
If you do have fuel pressure and spark. Hold the throttle pedal to the floor. This will put it in clear flood mode meaning the injectors shouldn't fire allowing a lot of air to through the head to lite off the excess fuel. That's if the plugs are not totally soaked.
If the pump is making pressure at the rail I would look at the pickup in the distributor or the TFI module. Also check the wiring harness to the TFI module. If the pickup in the distributor has failed then the injectors may not fire. Check ignition coil while you’re at it
Might sound crazy but try releasing pressure on Schrader valve. My 86 t bird turbo coupe wouldn’t start after checking everything, turns out it just needed fuel pressure released. Happened 3 separate times for me. 🤷♂️ Sounds like you’ve got spark, fuel pump working and fuel and that’s why I suggest giving it a try.
LOVE the channel! Watch every video! 👍
I managed to pick up my '88 Thunderbird with 123,000km(70,000miles) for $3500. 5.0 auto car and it is all original. Owned by an elderly couple who only drove it back and forth to church. They passed and willed it to family who just wanted it gone from their yard. Love my tbird way more than any other vehicle I have ever owned
Disconnect the TFI module connector from the TFI and the measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire and ground.
You should see greater than 100 K (100000) ohms.
Check the resistance from Pin 4 on the computer connector (dark green/yellow) and the dark green/yellow wire on the TFI connector. You should see 20-24 K Ohms (20,000-24,0000 ohms).
I had an MSD 6AL with the rev limit chips. The chips went. I didn’t see the box on your car but I saw the coil and thought it would be worth checking. Good luck.
I had a 86 Camaro not start because of a fuse on the passenger fender . It controlled the fuel injectors. The tach wasn't working either while I was cranking it
The 100$ gift card is just a bonus. But I have been working and modifying on all year Mustangs for over twenty years. Just helping you guy's out and getting the car running is good enough for me
Sounds like my fox once upon a time. I had a crane Hi-6 ignition box on it and sometimes it wouldn't start. Took that thing off and it's been great ever since.
That’s the same problem my car had so I bought mine and noticed there’s a fuel pump switch I was thinking that’s a way to by pass a problem probably what you have but mine has the 91 maf 5.0. And it’s worked like a clock ever since been 4 years and no problems. Run you a wire to the fuel pump and put the switch under the steering wheel out of sight... my car is un steal able. At least someone trying to drive off with it😉
check the fuel pump cut off switch in the trunk if memory serves me correct drivers side underneath the plastic theres an inertia switch in case of rear impact to kill the fuel pump.. tempos were also equipped with these and were notorious for going bad
SPARK , I did not hear you guys say nothing about spark
It comes down to fuel and fire. Did you ck and see if you have fire to the dizzy and then to the plugs? Also have you ck and see if you have fuel getting to the injectors? With the fire, has the the coil been cked? Again, it comes down to fuel and fire!
That's a great car to fix up/restore. Nice find, glad you're saving it!
Fuel pump relay on the fox body is located in a pain in the butt area it's in the top part of the dash just above your air conditioning unit and your stereo car stereo unit there's two relays in there not sure what the other ones for but one of those relays is for the fuel pump I found that out the hard way. Cost me $100 to have the vehicle towed down to a repair shop and found out it was that problem four made a mistake on putting the fuel pump relay in the wiring system where you can't hardly get to it at all.
Change the TFI module. I have had that go bad just after driving it and trying to start it up 10 minutes later.
Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and give it a shot of starting fluid to make sure it will fire. Give the fuel tank a good whack, possibly stuck. Use a stethoscope or test light to check for injector pulse. Check for power at fuel pump, may have access port under rear seat. Dont forget the crash/impact switch...I forget what they call it...inertia switch.
Either the box that all fords have,or the MSD box it doesn't sound like it's getting fire.. being a Ford fanatic I can't even think of the name of that box right now it's late and I'm overly tired LOL anyhow keep up the great work and stay safe stay blessed my friend
Put jumper cables on the negative of the battery and other side of jumpers to a clean spot on the block. Just trying to check off a possible grounding issues.
Well Ok, Not sure if that thing needs a Programable factory Key? You could spray something in the air cleaner to see if it would fire. Or pull off the coil wire and check for spark. Good Luck!
I ran into a gauntlet of problems with my 92 that had been setting for years. After changing the fuel pump relay, ecm relay, all fusible links, grounds, new ecm, two fuel pumps, and a new ignition system. My problem was..............Clogged fuel supply line from the pump to the rails.
Blow compressor air back through it disconnected at pump to check. Quick check, easy fix.
Had similar issue started at starter solenoid checked power all the way to the switch ended up being a fusible link cleaned up wiring boom no money needed
Neutral safety switch ftw!
A long shot but check the test port connector. Make sure the signal return wire is not grounding out. I did that by accident once and got the same no cranking results
I have seen the salt and pepper shakers give people problems. Sometimes the pins get pushed out of the connector or have corrosion in them
Good call, we did check those
You probably got it started by now but here goes. Ing. Module on the distributor is bad if you have fuel pressure. Can be tested at az. You changed ecm so if the charcoal can is cracked it won't start. Checking for cracked coil or coil wire. Simple things first.
Yeah I love my old notch back mustang convertibles
Change the distributor module
Honestly I walk away for 93's I try to go for like the 1985's model mustang matchbox
Check the relay under the driver seat. Check the pressure at the rail should be 25 plus and if the pressure at rail is not good change pump and filter relay under drive seat is a common problem. Let me know.
Electrical problems are so much fun. I had intermitant problems with turns signals and other items which did turn out to be the ignition switch. Obviously, that's not your issue. Your biggest issue is that you don't know what that poor car has been through over the years. As you all know, people do some seriously dumb things to their cars. We all do actually. It's how most of us learn what not to do.
Put a jumper wire from the battery to the positive on the coil, if it starts the ignition switch on the steering column could be bad.
I recently had this issue. Everything tested good and I did all the checks. I realized the computer ground wasn’t grounded to the body. The pump would only prime for a second and shut off.
I would've thought ignition switch would fix it. Did you bolt in or engage new ignition switch and was able to turn over starter from in car. I think it powers ecu and fuel pump.
Bad TFI module kills power to fuel pump
Go ahead and yank ignition switch put a new one in it. Regardless of whether it's cranking it or not it can still be bad. Then check the other switches and relays that I just spoke to you about or I have left messages on here. And I hope I get to see that it is one of the things that I mentioned to you.
Inside the trunk towards the tail lights there's a rollover switch press that button down and see if that will reset it so that it will work.
My name is Brian Taylor I'm 62 years old or soon will be. Those Latifah tween pintos and the Ford Mustang they have those little switches in the back of the rollover switch and try that one and also the to realize that are located up under the dash the relay that you're looking at towards the motor I don't know what that thing is I haven't seen that one on mine mine is a 1989 Ford Mustang LX equipped with the 2300 engine I know I've got a lot of talking on here I've done but you have to check everything check your wiring trace it down get the Haynes automotive repair manual if not there look it up on your computer screens. God bless you all have fun. I wish I had the money to fix my Mustang all the way up like I would like to have it one thing I would never have a tooth pains I will not have a convertible and I will not have another sunroof in my automobile ever again. Even if it's factory I would see what off.
Ignition Module on the dizzy is bad
Amazing that that starting procedure does not include the instruction to turn the key on and allow the fuel pump to school up before you start the vehicle. You turn the key on, count to three, then start the car. It will start so much easier.
The 93 still had that ignition switch that like to come apart start shorting out, be careful that it doesn't catch fire. It also will stop vehicle from starting.
Pull a spark plug and check for spark...
If you have spark I would replace the fuel filter. Depending how long it’s been sitting it could be clogged or full of water.
Ignition switch located on top of the steering column underneath the firewall or underneath the dash between the dash in the firewall you want to check at Mission switch they are prone to going bad I have replaced the more than once on my weather Tappan tow or a Ford Mustang.
Use an old spark plug to check for spark. If spark is present but weak, it still may not start.
Check spark timing with a timing light, to check spark plug wiring and distributor clocking.
I have had carbon track right through the rotor to the distributor shaft more than once.
Watch for double spark in case of a carbon track Distributor could still be 180 off.
Check fuel pump fuse and relay, check voltage at pump and starter fuse and relay.
Does it have a Security system?
Does the other car's computer part number match this one?
Look inside throttle body see if it squirts fuel (key on & step on gas pedal).
If not check pressure at throttle body. Just because you hear the fuel pump doesn't mean it is pumping. Also need to purge the fuel lines of air.
Pour some gas in the throttle body and try to start.
Do the (100) dollar bill test on the exhaust while cranking.
It gets worse from here if all of the above check out.
I'm probably too late and you have it running already.
Like how rust free it is! Too bad you couldn’t get it running but i know you will!
Spray some starting fluid in it to see if it fires up that way to make sure your getting spark if not I had to ground the tank and pump off with a new ground to make pump work
Take it to the Car Wizard. He will fix it!
As always a big👍👍 to you and your content! Cant make it Ford Takeover but baking on seeing you at Foxtoberfest '21! Keep at it brother!!👊👊👍💪
The fox chassis was no longer used in 2004 people not 1993. Also ford stopped using the pushrod 5.0 in 1995 not 1993 in the mustang.
Seems like something to do with the ignition man if its not starting with the key then its probably not priming and controlling spark and fuel pump because the ecu doesn't see the ignition cylinder in the run position
Try swapping the key and cylinder or check wiring and where it goes into ignition switch? Maybe a short wire somewhere. Weird the door chime goes without key in.
Check ignition module . Had a issue with TP sensor spray carb cleaner in intake and see if it crankes . Had some once its started it works fine all day. Then once it sits won't run fuel pump. Was a Ford tech 26 years have seen some crazy crap with these systems. Check switch on clutch pedal too if it won't start with the key.
That's a tiny crank pully. Get a beefy alternator otherwise that things hardly going to charge since it's not spinning as much.
Hook up the new ignition switch. The rod in the column has to slide the internals in the ignition to energize the EFI in order to start.
Hey guys is the 93 Electric Red LX hatch still around? I remember you saying something about Alex was thinking about taking it on as his next fox project but haven't heard anything about it unless I missed something since you said it was going back to get resprayed i belive about a year ago... that's a pretty cool little 93 there I'd love to get my hands on a notch but until I do I've got my 93 (⚡ red) basically redone everything shes still a push rod 5 speed... LMR is a lifesaver and thanks for the discount codes for all them big orders it helps alot! next thing for me is going to be engine bay smoothing and fresh paint but I think I'm going to wait till this winter to do the paint since it's been a while since we've been able to go to shows and meetups that are all cracking off everywhere again and I need to partake in some I was feeling the fox hang out withdraws 😆 I think a lot of us have been!!!
What a beautiful find brother! Time to get to work soon! 👍🏻
The Efi relay by the glove compartment
The small hose between the pump and sending unit blew out. Or the TFI or PIP went out.
A bad TFI should still make it turn over at the least by the key
@@THRASHER1990 pip signal which signals injector pulse passes through the TFI. I’ve had the TFI fail and cause the injector to not pulse. I thought they replaced the starter and got it to turn over.
@@NoFox_Given only by jumping it, not from the key. Something is telling the engine not to crank, I’d definitely like to see him test a spark plug or spray some starting fluid in the intake
@@THRASHER1990 I would guess there are multiple issues then or just simply a separated ignition switch
Didn’t see if you checked for spark. I could have looked away for a minute and missed it.
Do this take out a spark plug test for spark when cranking next next verify timing of the distributor next test for fule presser at the fuel rail next test if the injectors are opening by cranking the engine with the fuel rail off with injectors in the fule rail if you have all of that check compression if you have all of that see if it will start with starting fluid if it sputters you have a fuel problem if it does not you have a compression or spark problem gass engines are ez all you need is 4 things to run fule compression air and spark
Could be the computer. I've seen it happen on a few. I've got an a9L chilling here too.
Judy run a standalone ecu it's a mustang it probably has a massive aftermarket and with a distributor its extremely ez to tune
I've got it narrowed down. It's either not getting a spark, or not getting fuel. Now that the hard part is over with, it should be an easy fix.
Check the fuel safety safety switch or replace it. May be popped up since engine was taken out.
Check the spark.
Chk the 2 bulk connectors wiring harness behind the intake for pin fit and I believe from year to year there were some differences.for the crank no start issue
Check tach wire possibly grounded out if someone had installed a after market tach and also there is a blue relay eec power relay pass side kick panel and eec ground that goes bad from moisture
Cool find! Bummer it won't start. I'm dying to know what it was. Typically something simple.
Fusible link or the pump gave out check your harness to it see if you're getting power back to it also see if the engine will run off fuel fed to it down the intake to rule out something to the ecm wiring
Troubleshooting is not swaptronics, got to do them checks with a DVOM and check wire terminations.
Did you guys check to see that the fuel lines aren't all gloopy? Maybe injectors? If that car had been sitting for many years, if there was fuel in any of the lines, it would likely be fouled if they weren't either cleaned out or swapped. Try running a small tank to the injection system and see if that makes the ponies kick?