IDF Super Churchill Pt3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มี.ค. 2023
- This is an edited video from Ep 78 Live Stream (Oct 26, 2022) that focuses on the what-if project IDF Super Churchill. Painting continues! Kit-bashing the old 1/35 Tamiya Mk VII + AFV Club Centurion Sho't Kal Gimel 1982 models into a hypothetical IDF Churchill upgraded into the late 1970/early 80's.
Part 1 - • IDF Super Churchill Pt1
Part 2 - • IDF Super Churchill Pt2
Ep 78 Live Stream - th-cam.com/users/live2dsP1KEh77k
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The super Churchill is looking great!
Thanks Josh!
Hey, thanks for putting this together. Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video i take hundreds of photos of railcars and railroad industrial subjects in general and i agree with you about the chipping you are on point with it can't wait for the next video
Thanks Timothy, and definitely more to follow
I will have to go and find part 1&2 as this looked to be a very interesting subject/build, I think if this was for real, the Isreali's would have been very desperate, but then there is nothinb wrong with a 'what if kit build' that is what makes this hobby interesting, a great build and subject sir, best regards from Australia 👍👍👍👍
Links to the first parts in is in the description, including the Live Stream link. One of my Patreons is a retired IDF tank commander and he was very clear with me that they would use whatever they could get their hands in those days. He fully endorsed this idea as definitely plausible if some Churchill's were on hand. Enjoy, cheers!
Love it as always. Thanks!
Thanks again!
Dear Mike! MM paits are finally availible in Poland and I will give them a try. A quick question: do You use the poly with whem (I know it doesn't help chipping), I mean- do You use it at all? And one more: do MM paints mix with Tamiyas, Valejos, AKs or other brands at all? Just need some starting point here... :) #Robert
Hi Robert, apologies for the delayed reply, YT had your comment hidden for some reason.
Great to hear, and yes, I use the poly. It used for glossier finishes and also to help with lower layers not wanted to be affected by the water when chipping off the top layers.
No, MMP is a singular ecosystem, I don't recommend cross mixing with other paints. Same with the airbrush, keep it pure and no alcohol or lacquer thinner used at all for anything (thinning, cleaning, etc.) with MMP.
I have a question that I will be able to answer myself when I eventually get to the live stream, but if someone has it off hand it would be helpful. How long on drying of these acrylics before going at it with the water? I haven't used MM, and feel like I'm my experience with spraying Vallejo, which is obviously a very different paint, it would be all or nothing without any chipping fluid if I let it set all the way up. I plan to use MM on my next build and am curious about this sort of process for it, thanks
Typically, you can chip as soon as its dry for almost all paints, MMP included. I like to say once the airbrush is cleaned is a good amount of time before you can begin. Longer is never a big deal either with MMP due to their activation qualities with water, and why they’re so flexible for this type of work.
@@rs.p thank you for the prompt reply, I appreciate this! Will absolutely be giving it a shot on my next kit.
Thanks for sharing this technique. Could you apply the same type ‘’light chipping’ effect to get patina on aircraft or is it best to go straight to OPR for this?
Hi Steve, great question and armor tends to get a lot more weathered layers on top, so it makes sense from an efficiency standpoint to work in the chips with paint as shown here.
On many aircraft, as demo'd on the P-61 -- since very little additional weathering comes into play on top of the paint wear & tear doing this form via OPR is very efficient.
It's by no means a hard rule, but a general guideline, and for sure a combo of both is going to be very effective too, whether OPR is the prime process or the tuning apparatus, after the fact.
Thanks Mike. Great help much appreciated