Not as easy as it looks. I wish the OP had shown how to get to and remove the 17mm nuts as one of them was practically impossible with brake lines and control arms in the way. I couldn't even see it and had to feel around and the breaker bar couldn't reach it on the socket side and the bar was too long to maneuver in the wheel well. In the end, i just ended up changing the pads and will change out the rotors on the next brake job, which i probably won't do myself.
You didnt specify if front or rear. If you had difficulty with the front, you can maybe gain more room/maneuverability for tools if you turned the steering wheel one way or the other...I'm not implying you are stupid, just trying to help...✌
Thanks for the information about the screws. The screw heads were broken off on mine so I had to drill them out. I didn't bother with new screws on the fresh rotors. The screws were put in place to keep the rotors from moving on the assembly line. They serve no other purpose.
thx....couple tips. Highly recommended to pull the caliper slide pins out of the rubber boots and reapply some silicone brake lube so they move freely as he pads wear. Also good to bleed new brake fluid from the master cylinder down to the caliper if it has been a few years since last done. Handy with a helper to pump brakes.
I should mention it is a 2007 Azera SE. I watched a video of a rotor/pad replacement on a 2011 Sonata that requires extra work to remove lower bolts on the shock and control arm so that you can get at the lower caliper bolt. That is a show stopper for me because I have only a floor jack, and would not be able to provide support for the loosened control arm and the extra hassle of working under the car while I am on the ground. Thanks for any advice.
You forgot to regrease the caliper pins in the caliper bracket/frame and check the boots for tears and wear and the little rubber bushing on the lower pin. If one of pins sticks or even seizes, your pads will have very uneven wear...
Informative, but you should've indicated how much torque to apply when tightening the two flange bolts on the caliper and the two bolts connecting the brake housing to the wheel.
Nice video and i think absolutely the only one there is for the first generation Azera on the entire Tube. I noticed the OP only changed (showed really) the passenger front pads and rotor. Would the process and steps (including hardware used) be essentially the same for the rear as well? And i also noticed there was no special care regarding ABS and traction control sensors as well as the e-brake. Would any of that come into play for this particular car? And also i noticed that the reservoir cap wasn't opened at any point of the video, where most videos recommend doing this. Is that really necessary for this car?
I keep reading on the azera forums that there is no safe jack stand places under the car, and you have to use the stock jack point with the pinch welds. I know 2012 is when they had the redesign, so is your description wrong or are the forums wrong? I'm looking to save a buck and do it myself!
No,,,that is bullshit. I know I guy that said Never-Seize caused his lug nuts to come loose ...that ignorant hypothesis PROVED to me that he musta FORGOT to tighten his lug nuts....."so people know"...lol
Thanks for the helpful video on replacing the front Brake Rotor and pads on the Azera. Pretty straight forward. Can you tell me if replacing the rear pads is the same? Or is there anything I should be aware of before I start work? Thanks for any reply.
I have not looked at the rear pads. Normally every three front pads will last for one rear pad. Take a look and see how easy it is to access caliper bolts.
Rear pads are just as easy but rear rotors are a bit more complicated. Taking the caliper mounting bracket off requires you to partially disassemble the rear suspension to access the bracket bolts. Not too hard but a bit more time consuming. When doing rear pads it might be a good idea to replace the parking brake shoes as well. This can be a pain if you haven't done it before. It's a drum type parking brake inside the rear discs.
The studs press in to the hub. Use hammer or press to remove and a press to insert new studs. I have been able to hammer them in from back without press. You could take the hubs to a automotive machine shop and have it done too.
Wow, thanks so much for posting and this is way too easy. It's been 30 years since I last replaced pads and it has come a long way. Can you tell me if there is a torque setting for each of the bolts?
Do the rotors need to be replaced as well as the brake pads at the same time? I need to change the brake pads on my ladies car and I don't know if I need to switch out the rotors as well.
I have had bad luck with rotors being warped. They look great but sometimes I got weird front end shaking while braking. Unless your front end is 100% I suggest replacing rotors too.
I just attempted the rotor change on my 2006 Azera Limited. Nearly impossible to get to that top bracket bolt. Incredibly stupid design. Changed the calipers and pads, which was easy. Hoping the rotors hold up. Otherwise will have to take to a garage to do the rotors. Not skilled enough to those myself. I hate Hyundai!!!!
Try to take off the front Rotors of a 2006 Hyundai Azera with this information. The 17MM rotor bracket nut is NOT under the top nut... and NOWHERE is there information on " how to " .....get that nut off. Unless your're on a lift ! Totally Over paying ! People who build cars .......should have to repair them for 2 years .....and see how stupid their ideas ARE. ! Yes every bracket bolt for the Rotors since the beginning of time are directly under the top bolt easy access ....Not the Hyundai Azera 2006 ! Next car wont be this because of it !
Very informative. Been wanting to do my brakes for a while on my 2007 Azera. I will definitely try this now.
Not as easy as it looks. I wish the OP had shown how to get to and remove the 17mm nuts as one of them was practically impossible with brake lines and control arms in the way. I couldn't even see it and had to feel around and the breaker bar couldn't reach it on the socket side and the bar was too long to maneuver in the wheel well. In the end, i just ended up changing the pads and will change out the rotors on the next brake job, which i probably won't do myself.
You didnt specify if front or rear. If you had difficulty with the front, you can maybe gain more room/maneuverability for tools if you turned the steering wheel one way or the other...I'm not implying you are stupid, just trying to help...✌
Thanks for the information about the screws. The screw heads were broken off on mine so I had to drill them out. I didn't bother with new screws on the fresh rotors. The screws were put in place to keep the rotors from moving on the assembly line. They serve no other purpose.
thx....couple tips. Highly recommended to pull the caliper slide pins out of the rubber boots and reapply some silicone brake lube so they move freely as he pads wear. Also good to bleed new brake fluid from the master cylinder down to the caliper if it has been a few years since last done. Handy with a helper to pump brakes.
Really nice video Kent. I came on here just to make sure that this car didn't have the crazy "screw in" caliper piston.
Great instructional video. Much appreciated.
I should mention it is a 2007 Azera SE. I watched a video of a rotor/pad replacement on a 2011 Sonata that requires extra work to remove lower bolts on the shock and control arm so that you can get at the lower caliper bolt. That is a show stopper for me because I have only a floor jack, and would not be able to provide support for the loosened control arm and the extra hassle of working under the car while I am on the ground. Thanks for any advice.
You forgot to regrease the caliper pins in the caliper bracket/frame and check the boots for tears and wear and the little rubber bushing on the lower pin. If one of pins sticks or even seizes, your pads will have very uneven wear...
great video thanks for taking the time making that,,, it really comes in handy for reference
Informative, but you should've indicated how much torque to apply when tightening the two flange bolts on the caliper and the two bolts connecting the brake housing to the wheel.
Nice video and i think absolutely the only one there is for the first generation Azera on the entire Tube. I noticed the OP only changed (showed really) the passenger front pads and rotor. Would the process and steps (including hardware used) be essentially the same for the rear as well? And i also noticed there was no special care regarding ABS and traction control sensors as well as the e-brake. Would any of that come into play for this particular car?
And also i noticed that the reservoir cap wasn't opened at any point of the video, where most videos recommend doing this. Is that really necessary for this car?
You sound like Kermit the Frog. Thanks.
Gotta change my ladies brakes.
I keep reading on the azera forums that there is no safe jack stand places under the car, and you have to use the stock jack point with the pinch welds. I know 2012 is when they had the redesign, so is your description wrong or are the forums wrong? I'm looking to save a buck and do it myself!
I learned not to use oil or grease on lug nuts or studs. It can cause the nuts to come loose and wheel to fall off. so people know.
No,,,that is bullshit. I know I guy that said Never-Seize caused his lug nuts to come loose ...that ignorant hypothesis PROVED to me that he musta FORGOT to tighten his lug nuts....."so people know"...lol
@@MrChewbone69 um
Thanks for the helpful video on replacing the front Brake Rotor and pads on the Azera. Pretty straight forward. Can you tell me if replacing the rear pads is the same? Or is there anything I should be aware of before I start work? Thanks for any reply.
I have not looked at the rear pads. Normally every three front pads will last for one rear pad. Take a look and see how easy it is to access caliper bolts.
Good to know. I will eyeball the rear caliper setup when weather permits, Thanks again.
Rear pads are just as easy but rear rotors are a bit more complicated. Taking the caliper mounting bracket off requires you to partially disassemble the rear suspension to access the bracket bolts. Not too hard but a bit more time consuming. When doing rear pads it might be a good idea to replace the parking brake shoes as well. This can be a pain if you haven't done it before. It's a drum type parking brake inside the rear discs.
Torque specs for the brake caliper frame and caliper?
How did you take the caliber off? I have a 2011 and the 2nd bolt is hard to get to.
I have 30" breaker bar and was no problem.
Y'all never heard if anti seize?
What about the rears?
Could you tell me how to change the studs I got 2 broke off and I can’t get them to back out
The studs press in to the hub. Use hammer or press to remove and a press to insert new studs. I have been able to hammer them in from back without press. You could take the hubs to a automotive machine shop and have it done too.
Wow, thanks so much for posting and this is way too easy. It's been 30 years since I last replaced pads and it has come a long way. Can you tell me if there is a torque setting for each of the bolts?
I saw this in a comment further down:
Front caliper guide rod bolts
21.6 ~ 31.4 Nm
2.2 ~ 3.2 kgf.m
15.9 ~ 23.1 lb-ft
Rear caliper guide rod bolts
21.6 ~ 31.4 Nm
2.2 ~ 3.2 kgf.m
15.9 ~ 23.1 lb-ft
Front caliper assembly to knuckle
78.5 ~ 98.1 Nm
8.0 ~ 10.0 kgf.m
57.9 ~ 72.3 lb-ft
Rear caliper assembly to knuckle
49.0 ~ 63.7 Nm
5.0 ~ 6.5 kgf.m
36.2 ~ 47.0 lb-ft
Kent Diego Kent, thanks for sending the info! Much appreciated
Western NY cars don't look like that underneath. Thanks for the video
Do the rotors need to be replaced as well as the brake pads at the same time? I need to change the brake pads on my ladies car and I don't know if I need to switch out the rotors as well.
I have had bad luck with rotors being warped. They look great but sometimes I got weird front end shaking while braking. Unless your front end is 100% I suggest replacing rotors too.
Next time tell us to use a jack stand
I just attempted the rotor change on my 2006 Azera Limited. Nearly impossible to get to that top bracket bolt. Incredibly stupid design. Changed the calipers and pads, which was easy. Hoping the rotors hold up. Otherwise will have to take to a garage to do the rotors. Not skilled enough to those myself. I hate Hyundai!!!!
Try to take off the front Rotors of a 2006 Hyundai Azera with this information. The 17MM rotor bracket nut is NOT under the top nut... and NOWHERE is there information on " how to " .....get that nut off. Unless your're on a lift ! Totally Over paying !
People who build cars .......should have to repair them for 2 years .....and see how stupid their ideas ARE. !
Yes every bracket bolt for the Rotors since the beginning of time are directly under the top bolt easy access ....Not the Hyundai Azera 2006 ! Next car wont be this because of it !
I was glad to get rid of my Azera. The worst was the loud ticking from the fuel injectors at start up.
...1:22.....uhhh...21 mm 13/16 ..uhhh...JACK?