NOTE: THE small vrm power stage chip near the 2 large capacitors, please put a small heatsink and not a large one or else the casing when you put it back together may rip it off all together!
I think this happened to me and the vrm became detached. It's the very small block on the corner of the device. Would it be possible to solder it back on? Or did I brick the device? Nothing looks damaged otherwise
If you don’t mind a bit more noise there is an easy way to have the fans on 100% all the time and drop the temp to around 60C. Just disconnect the yellow wire going from the fans to the small control board on the lid and your fans will go to 100% (around 7800 RPM). You’re welcome 😉
Awesome, after out of warranty I will pop mine open and heatsink that inductor. Not too worried about it, I run mine on low. Says 80c 🤷♂️. Suppose to get Gan psu in one day July/August
I think I'm gonna leave mine as it is. I received mine today, and yes it does get quite hot. Maybe after the warranty has run out I will. But it was designed to run this hot, that's why they advertise the device as a "Space Heater". 140 Watts of heat won't cause too much damage anyway
Nice modification. I wonder how you solved the location of the temperature sensor, which touches the hottest component. After modification, it touches the heatsink. And the second knowledge is that in front of this component, behind the fan, plastic protrudes from the cover, which I assume is there so that it does not affect the temperature sensor. However, it also does not cool this component because it creates an obstruction. Sure it works with the cover open because air flows through the heatsink. However, when you put the cover back on, this plastic barrier makes the flow through this heatsink almost impossible. If you remove this plastic, you will reduce the temperature even without a heatsink, because the air will flow directly through it. Unfortunately, it will also affect the temperature sensor. I made the same adjustment as in the video and the rpms and temperatures did not drop at all or only minimally. For which I assume the aforementioned fact is to blame, because it is necessary to measure those values with the cover and not without it.
I keep telling ppl, rig ks0 pro shroud and 120mm fan to pull exhaust air, the temps get reduced greatly, even better than heat sinks, the sinks would just be a bonus
Just got mine 3 days ago. When running on high the system seems to make a whizzing noise. I have to assume it's the fans. On Low its very quiet. Anyone else seeing this? Id love to make it quiet but not sure if replacing the fans would do that. I have a small apartment and its annoying me..
If you are in the US - that sticker is a crime. Your warranty WILL NOT BE VOID for opening the device. Only if in the process you cause provable damage to the device. (in the US as previously stated)
@@MSJ_raptor Removing the sticker is not a crime. Stating a sticker removal will void warranty is a crime. Specifically it is a violation of the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act.
@@cracklingice yes, i know, but also, you would think the ppl at canaan would design it right. and if say you "void" the warranty, it's going cost far more than 100$ to what, sue them? could be a heat sink is a good idea however. but if i did it, i would not go back on the manufacture if it broke. the point of life is to enjoy it as best one might, not sure people over a 100$ device you re-engineered. lol.
Well I followed the heat sink train. The tiny component just to the side of the fans is SUPER delicate. Its labeled 4r7. Well upon replacing the cover there must have been some wiggle as @RedPandaMining notes to refit the USB PSU - its snug. With heat sink it was too much for component and it snapped off with heat sink attached. 1 Avalon down for the count. :( Fork!
@@Back2Back.P I bought the Wurth Elektronik 74439324047 5.3A and 74439325047 5.7A. I believe I installed the big one from the 2, the dot of this wurth component is on a different corner but if you account for that no problems and it works good
Fan speed is set according to the internal temp via two thermistors regardless of the heat setting. With all air restrictions removed, the inside temp doesn't get hot enough for the fan to increase to max RPM even if the heat setting is on high. This is the case with both my Nano 3's. Yes, it would be nice to have a manual setting in the app or web GUI.
After reading comments, and seeing the inside, I think using a dremel on the plastic case will be the way to go as far as adding a fan... or access to the chipset from the top. Just watch out for that display panel wire. I'll do that when they get here.
Any probkem with wifi receptor? Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out even when the router is literally next to the miner Is there a way to change the wifi to Ethernet
just so you know, thats not a mosfet its a choke. the actual mosfet already has a heatsink, it the chip to the right of the choke you cooled. chokes dont really need to be cooled so imo this is pointless but if it gives you peace of mind then ig thats good
will the nano work if you disconnect the cables that go to the screen and buttons on top of the cover? Im thinking of removing the internal out completely out of the case and control the unit just through web gui as I dont need the screens or buttons?
Hmm, cheap heatsink from Amazon. Don't know how effective the adhesive is for thermal transfer, and also note that the anodize adds a small amount thermal insulator.
Canaan should do upgrades by users recommendations - put 4-5 heatsinks more, remove black "dust cathers" - charge me as customer 5$ more for each unit. I don't need to break warranty sticker.
Great video! Thanks for providing this video to let us know about this issue. Also can you tell me the size of the heat sink you are using on your machine?
I have bought a few different heat syncs from amazon before. I've had the best results with Alphacool 17427 GPU RAM Copper Heatsinks on amazon. They are a little more than the kits but seem to have more surface area and drops temp a bit more. Hope this helps!
I have two of those miners, one mining much less than the other, its reaching 58C (T) while the other mining better reaching max 38C (T). anyone having the same? considering removing than giant heatsink and add thermal past see if that help. Both (H0) temps is 90C, definitively in need of a heatsink like shown in this video, thanks
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Mine totally let the smoke out on the weekend...noticed hash rate dropped to hardly anything open it up I had a white one all inside black :( not even heat sink will help me
I can't wait for avalon to actually get around to shipping these miner out to all the backers. I order 4 of them on April 16 th and they still haven't got them to me yet. Bruh
These modern mos-fets can operate between 80 - 125C. That is why Canaan did not put a heatsink on it. Just like a lot of motherboards that don't have heatsinks on their VRMs either for that same reason, it's not necessary. Optimal is between 80 - 100C. If you're hitting the 90's on high, then you're good. But like too much heat... don't cool them too much either.
Well i have 2. 1 just stopped working something blown inside. And well second one (on medium) disconnects hangs gets un responsive. Also on medium. Only by removing the grills and placing a 140 mm fan in front unit been running 24 h stable... Room temp is like 23 degrees which is well not hot.. seems components dont like it hot
@@Just9602 you might have a defective unit, as mine are running fine on high with room temps upto 27c. No additional cooling or anything, I haven't even taken the grills off
Well then i have 2 not so good. One is toast send it back for repair, not powering on anymore. And second one just custom it just stops hangs goes offline. Only when i remove grill and put a fan in front of it it hashes stable on medium. High well it hangs .. just my luck to get two with problems
NOTE: THE small vrm power stage chip near the 2 large capacitors, please put a small heatsink and not a large one or else the casing when you put it back together may rip it off all together!
I think this happened to me and the vrm became detached. It's the very small block on the corner of the device.
Would it be possible to solder it back on? Or did I brick the device? Nothing looks damaged otherwise
@@MeleeBandit Which one exactly? The one he said had no airflow to by the USB power supply plug?
If you don’t mind a bit more noise there is an easy way to have the fans on 100% all the time and drop the temp to around 60C.
Just disconnect the yellow wire going from the fans to the small control board on the lid and your fans will go to 100% (around 7800 RPM).
You’re welcome 😉
Should you use the 80% rule when running the Avalon Nano 3 in high mode? If so power supply should be 175 watts?
Awesome, after out of warranty I will pop mine open and heatsink that inductor. Not too worried about it, I run mine on low. Says 80c 🤷♂️. Suppose to get Gan psu in one day July/August
Any hashrate gains from running cooler?
or just piece of mind?
I think I'm gonna leave mine as it is. I received mine today, and yes it does get quite hot. Maybe after the warranty has run out I will. But it was designed to run this hot, that's why they advertise the device as a "Space Heater". 140 Watts of heat won't cause too much damage anyway
Nice modification. I wonder how you solved the location of the temperature sensor, which touches the hottest component. After modification, it touches the heatsink. And the second knowledge is that in front of this component, behind the fan, plastic protrudes from the cover, which I assume is there so that it does not affect the temperature sensor. However, it also does not cool this component because it creates an obstruction. Sure it works with the cover open because air flows through the heatsink. However, when you put the cover back on, this plastic barrier makes the flow through this heatsink almost impossible. If you remove this plastic, you will reduce the temperature even without a heatsink, because the air will flow directly through it. Unfortunately, it will also affect the temperature sensor.
I made the same adjustment as in the video and the rpms and temperatures did not drop at all or only minimally. For which I assume the aforementioned fact is to blame, because it is necessary to measure those values with the cover and not without it.
I keep telling ppl, rig ks0 pro shroud and 120mm fan to pull exhaust air, the temps get reduced greatly, even better than heat sinks, the sinks would just be a bonus
could you leave the cover off and some how put a larger fan above the circuit board?
Panda how are they all holding up?
Why would you cool down a space heater?
Does anyone know what the difference in the 2 temperatures are? One is labeled (T) and the other is (H0). Not sure what temps those mean.
Just got mine 3 days ago. When running on high the system seems to make a whizzing noise. I have to assume it's the fans. On Low its very quiet. Anyone else seeing this? Id love to make it quiet but not sure if replacing the fans would do that. I have a small apartment and its annoying me..
If you are in the US - that sticker is a crime. Your warranty WILL NOT BE VOID for opening the device. Only if in the process you cause provable damage to the device. (in the US as previously stated)
a crime? the thing is his.
@@MSJ_raptor Removing the sticker is not a crime. Stating a sticker removal will void warranty is a crime. Specifically it is a violation of the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act.
@@cracklingice The thing is from Singapore.
@@MSJ_raptor The origin of the device does not matter. If it is sold in the US, it follows US warranty law for those buyers.
@@cracklingice yes, i know, but also, you would think the ppl at canaan would design it right. and if say you "void" the warranty, it's going cost far more than 100$ to what, sue them? could be a heat sink is a good idea however. but if i did it, i would not go back on the manufacture if it broke. the point of life is to enjoy it as best one might, not sure people over a 100$ device you re-engineered. lol.
Why is there no RED nano for RPM?!?
...this is unacceptable!
Lmao I can’t be associated with FIRES MAYBE…
Could you please tell the size of the first heat sink that you put?I need to buy one
That thermo gun be working hard
Hi, what are the fans specs ? Size, 3 or 4 pins, operating voltage, RPMs ... Thanks !
Well I followed the heat sink train. The tiny component just to the side of the fans is SUPER delicate. Its labeled 4r7. Well upon replacing the cover there must have been some wiggle as @RedPandaMining notes to refit the USB PSU - its snug. With heat sink it was too much for component and it snapped off with heat sink attached. 1 Avalon down for the count. :( Fork!
I have the same experience 😭😭. But I believe to have found the part
Damn, thanks for bringing this to our attention. I won't be opening up mine. It was designed to run this way.
I had the same problem... Do you have a link for that? @@askjeroen
@@Back2Back.P I bought the Wurth Elektronik 74439324047 5.3A and 74439325047 5.7A. I believe I installed the big one from the 2, the dot of this wurth component is on a different corner but if you account for that no problems and it works good
Fan speed is set according to the internal temp via two thermistors regardless of the heat setting. With all air restrictions removed, the inside temp doesn't get hot enough for the fan to increase to max RPM even if the heat setting is on high. This is the case with both my Nano 3's. Yes, it would be nice to have a manual setting in the app or web GUI.
I can’t get my WiFi to show up and add miner. Reset internet, reset miner. I have 2.4 internet. Help!
After reading comments, and seeing the inside, I think using a dremel on the plastic case will be the way to go as far as adding a fan... or access to the chipset from the top.
Just watch out for that display panel wire. I'll do that when they get here.
Any probkem with wifi receptor? Seems like the wifi keeps dropping out even when the router is literally next to the miner
Is there a way to change the wifi to Ethernet
just so you know, thats not a mosfet its a choke. the actual mosfet already has a heatsink, it the chip to the right of the choke you cooled. chokes dont really need to be cooled so imo this is pointless but if it gives you peace of mind then ig thats good
That heatsink is anodized Aluminium not copper
Chokes are always tricky imo I’m glad to see you finally modding it. ❤️❤️❤️
If the tiny vrm power stage chip gets detached is there a way to fix it? Could a heat gun work to reattach it?
Probably. I'd have to look at it. I just ordered some nanaos.
will the nano work if you disconnect the cables that go to the screen and buttons on top of the cover? Im thinking of removing the internal out completely out of the case and control the unit just through web gui as I dont need the screens or buttons?
Thank you for the great advice! I have 2 nanos and lost one stock power supply. I think this was the reason why.
Hmm, cheap heatsink from Amazon. Don't know how effective the adhesive is for thermal transfer, and also note that the anodize adds a small amount thermal insulator.
If you are worried, buy "better" and put them in to maybe lower the temps more. Good Luck. Happy mining.
@RedPandaMining What size are the fans and have you looked to see if noctua fans would be better?
And please write down the dimensions of all the radiators that you used
Canaan should do upgrades by users recommendations - put 4-5 heatsinks more, remove black "dust cathers" - charge me as customer 5$ more for each unit. I don't need to break warranty sticker.
Que os parece la temperatura que alcanza el adaptador de corriente ? Es peligroso ?
What difference does it make? Did you get more hash rate? Oh, you're just worried the temperature is too high?
any update on hitting a block? ty RPM!
I think you can put it in without open the case with a tweezers or something similar.
Great video! Thanks for providing this video to let us know about this issue. Also can you tell me the size of the heat sink you are using on your machine?
@RedPandaMining do you have a different temperature from Nano 3 in same place? I have 10°C from my two nano
I am getting 30 degres C diff on the T one (both H0 is 90)
@@mastergool I have 2 side by side with about 3C difference. Purchased a month apart.
@@pw6854 silicone lottery I suppose
How do you get the cover past the USB I feel like I'm gonna break it
@RedPandaMining What about the fans, can we replace them with fans with higher quality? Can you do a video maybe?
I have bought a few different heat syncs from amazon before. I've had the best results with Alphacool 17427 GPU RAM Copper Heatsinks on amazon. They are a little more than the kits but seem to have more surface area and drops temp a bit more. Hope this helps!
...... Video request...... Liquid cool one of these in mineral oil! 🙏🏻
Ive done so already... And it will slow down the fans as well
@redpanda did you gain more hash also please run a 120m fan over the main heat sink to see more hash possible
nah didnt gain more but at like 4.16th/s it says
@@RedPandaMining ah ok. Better watts at wall ?!
@@NizmoMiner nah same it seems
I have two of those miners, one mining much less than the other, its reaching 58C (T) while the other mining better reaching max 38C (T). anyone having the same? considering removing than giant heatsink and add thermal past see if that help. Both (H0) temps is 90C, definitively in need of a heatsink like shown in this video, thanks
I wonder about the hashrate after this cooling modification 🧐
VRM is well in spec of temperature I believe they go up to 110
Excellent job, everything worked without any issues.
These warranty void stickes dont void your warranty its not legal that they do
It's chinese companies they dont care lol, if you send it in for repair anyway probably cost more in shipping than to just get a new one
If you're lucky enough to be in the USA, that is true. I think the rest of the world would get their warranty void.
Super merci beaucoup, as tu le lien des dissipateurs ?
thanks man
when do these actually pay out into your wallet?
Hello I'm Thinking of Purchasing Ice River KS5L Hosting Plan on Their Official Website, Should I Go With It Please Explain Briefly or Make a Video on It.
put the nano in oil, it works with computers too :-D
Mine totally let the smoke out on the weekend...noticed hash rate dropped to hardly anything open it up I had a white one all inside black :( not even heat sink will help me
I can't wait for avalon to actually get around to shipping these miner out to all the backers. I order 4 of them on April 16 th and they still haven't got them to me yet. Bruh
My nano ran for a week and now it wont power on probably somethings blown inside
omg just taken mine apart to put heat sink bloody VRM just came off the board
Dude send me a picture of that contact@redpandamining.com
@@RedPandaMining that why i cant get a block pmsl
@@RedPandaMining still need that photo? It also happened for me😮💨
@@RedPandaMining damn... me too...
Which VRM came off exactly? Can u post a link to photo?
Better be careful bad mouthing THE LTT screwdriver or ifixit kit... Linus and jay lawyers coming for u
Cool I will try... I am from Bangkok 🤘
thanks for the info. Mine have shipped i should have them soon!
1st cool electronics = happy electronics
USB C was pain in the ass 😅🙈
These modern mos-fets can operate between 80 - 125C. That is why Canaan did not put a heatsink on it. Just like a lot of motherboards that don't have heatsinks on their VRMs either for that same reason, it's not necessary. Optimal is between 80 - 100C. If you're hitting the 90's on high, then you're good. But like too much heat... don't cool them too much either.
Didn't know the low temp was important too. Thanks.
I thought that was the case, it's designed to work at those temps.
Well i have 2. 1 just stopped working something blown inside. And well second one (on medium) disconnects hangs gets un responsive. Also on medium. Only by removing the grills and placing a 140 mm fan in front unit been running 24 h stable... Room temp is like 23 degrees which is well not hot.. seems components dont like it hot
@@Just9602 you might have a defective unit, as mine are running fine on high with room temps upto 27c. No additional cooling or anything, I haven't even taken the grills off
Well then i have 2 not so good. One is toast send it back for repair, not powering on anymore. And second one just custom it just stops hangs goes offline. Only when i remove grill and put a fan in front of it it hashes stable on medium. High well it hangs .. just my luck to get two with problems
Neat, but likely pointless.
Can someone please tell me the trick on how to open this I'm so afraid mine's going to break I've tried but I'm afraid I'm going to break it
don't do it, just leave it as is then.
I totally would how ever I feel like it runs too hot I know it's advertised as a heater but 185 asic temps seems super hi to me