Thank you, I greatly enjoyed seeing & listening to your simple and honest descriptions !! We bought our Prado 120 at almost 160,000Km, one previous caring owner, and she's just got to 200,000Km without issues. Previous owners have serviced well, and we intend to keep all of that care going :-) Thanks again - Ted
I have got a 2006 LC120 Prado GXL 4.0 V6, 155000km on the dash, it runs very well. Just normal service and I recently changed front CV rubber boots. That's it, easy to work with and always keep going!
I have a 99 Prado Landcruiser 3.4 V6 Petrol- NZ new - ie; not an imported Japanese used - 280,000KM - 173,000MLS.Replaced cam belt at 120K and 250K, later replaced radiator. Plenty of these reliable vehicles cruising into their 200,000 - 300,000km. Strong, reliable, useful for varied tasks, towing stuff, moderate off rod, Carrying 8 people- fuel economy not fantastic, but pretty safe vehicle in a crash- All Wheel Drive great in NZ when night driving on long- empty rural highways and around the corner is mud and clay over the road from a small landslide- whoosh pretty well straight over, conditions that'd make a front wheel drive sedan go into a slide.
Good info, just to add a couple things that I've come across. The exhaust donut gasket went on mine and produced an annoying squeak. Then after the great central road there n back the dump pipe cracked at the turbo end. Both cheap genuine part fixes.
Great video mate! So so so so helpful. With the 210xxxkm car (second one) those bushes look much better, how many KMs you reckon you could get off those bushes looking like that?
Get over it, we used these recovery points 100’s of times safely….in the Middle East dunes, It’s just the OZ Nannie’s who require engineered recovery points!
@@noddy1919 or anyone with a basic understanding of physics, engineering and metallurgy. But stupid is as stupid does, and after 23 years of working remotely in Australia I have seen many overconfident come unstuck. And clearly if you require to be recovered 100's of times common sense is not your strongest character trait.
Interesting “the guy selling is more important than the car”. I looked at a 120 which looked and drove good, and price was great (mileage 130k) but the guy didn’t want us driving on the road cause he detailed the car and didn’t want it getting dirty. So up the driveway (100m) and back twice, never over 30km/h but all sounded suss, so we left and said no thanks
I just purchased a 2012 auto IKD for my daughter with 350K , awesome service history, lower arms were just done for RWC, it says injector clean on every service, owned by a nurse that only did country miles, the car never towed, no tow bar and never went off road, I am not a mechanic, but I am considering just getting the injectors done, what are your thoughts, and what else should I look at doing just in case, because the price was good and the car is very clean, cheers.
Looking at buying a 2009 120 series V6 petrol, has a shudder when turning at low speeds like when turning a corner from stop. Feels like it’s coming from the rear, possibly a diff issue. Any tips?
Hi Anthony Thanks for the informative videos. Hoping you can help - I have an '06 Prado 120 V6. When driving over relatively small corrugations (as opposed to large bumps and ruts - I get a significant 'thud' coming from the rear suspension/ axle area. It can be felt quite heavily when sitting in the rear over the wheel arches. I have recently fitted EFS shocks and coils so I suspect it is a linkage arm or bush of sorts? Any ideas?...
Thank you, I greatly enjoyed seeing & listening to your simple and honest descriptions !!
We bought our Prado 120 at almost 160,000Km, one previous caring owner, and she's just got to 200,000Km without issues.
Previous owners have serviced well, and we intend to keep all of that care going :-)
Thanks again - Ted
Brilliant review. I wish all mechanics were as honest and practical.
Legend, thanks, you'll never find this level of detail on a forum.
I have got a 2006 LC120 Prado GXL 4.0 V6, 155000km on the dash, it runs very well. Just normal service and I recently changed front CV rubber boots. That's it, easy to work with and always keep going!
how much it cost for changing cv boot, drive shaft boot and damper bushes. Thank you
Just learnt heaps about my vehicle! Awesome video mate, you've got a new subscriber 🙂
I have a 99 Prado Landcruiser 3.4 V6 Petrol- NZ new - ie; not an imported Japanese used - 280,000KM - 173,000MLS.Replaced cam belt at 120K and 250K, later replaced radiator. Plenty of these reliable vehicles cruising into their 200,000 - 300,000km. Strong, reliable, useful for varied tasks, towing stuff, moderate off rod, Carrying 8 people- fuel economy not fantastic, but pretty safe vehicle in a crash- All Wheel Drive great in NZ when night driving on long- empty rural highways and around the corner is mud and clay over the road from a small landslide- whoosh pretty well straight over, conditions that'd make a front wheel drive sedan go into a slide.
good sound advise especially looking at the tow prado's from underneath for a potential buyer thanks mate
Good info, just to add a couple things that I've come across. The exhaust donut gasket went on mine and produced an annoying squeak. Then after the great central road there n back the dump pipe cracked at the turbo end. Both cheap genuine part fixes.
Just purchased a 2015 3L Kakadu, I think your channel will come in very handy, good stuff and Sub'd
Great video mate! So so so so helpful. With the 210xxxkm car (second one) those bushes look much better, how many KMs you reckon you could get off those bushes looking like that?
Nice genuine bloke. Thank you
That D shackle on the transport restraint point is doing my head in.
Get over it,
we used these recovery points 100’s of times safely….in the Middle East dunes,
It’s just the OZ Nannie’s who require engineered recovery points!
@@noddy1919 or anyone with a basic understanding of physics, engineering and metallurgy. But stupid is as stupid does, and after 23 years of working remotely in Australia I have seen many overconfident come unstuck.
And clearly if you require to be recovered 100's of times common sense is not your strongest character trait.
Thank you, very well presented... good stuff mate!
Want one of these. Great video mate.
Excellent advice Anthony
Nice honest video ❤
Great resource thanks mate, I',m in the market for a 2012-14 with sub 150ks on it. Hope it lasts me a while.
Great video! Do you think silicone spray on clean rubber boots, rubber bushes etc prolongs their life?
Interesting “the guy selling is more important than the car”. I looked at a 120 which looked and drove good, and price was great (mileage 130k) but the guy didn’t want us driving on the road cause he detailed the car and didn’t want it getting dirty. So up the driveway (100m) and back twice, never over 30km/h but all sounded suss, so we left and said no thanks
Yup huge red flag if they don't let you do a road test
@@michaelgooley229exactly 💯 good decision !!!
Great vid. Really informative. Cheers.
Thanks mate great video
Could have sworn it was a Suzuki Swift, other than that, great information thank you.
Thats helpful thanks Mate 🤙
I just purchased a 2012 auto IKD for my daughter with 350K , awesome service history, lower arms were just done for RWC, it says injector clean on every service, owned by a nurse that only did country miles, the car never towed, no tow bar and never went off road, I am not a mechanic, but I am considering just getting the injectors done, what are your thoughts, and what else should I look at doing just in case, because the price was good and the car is very clean, cheers.
Thanks for a very instructive video.
Thanks mate!
Tell em to get rid of those D shackles off those tie points. They are recovery points
Did you work out where the oil leak was from??
Looking at buying a 2009 120 series V6 petrol, has a shudder when turning at low speeds like when turning a corner from stop. Feels like it’s coming from the rear, possibly a diff issue. Any tips?
where can i findvyour store?
Hi Anthony
Thanks for the informative videos. Hoping you can help - I have an '06 Prado 120 V6. When driving over relatively small corrugations (as opposed to large bumps and ruts - I get a significant 'thud' coming from the rear suspension/ axle area. It can be felt quite heavily when sitting in the rear over the wheel arches. I have recently fitted EFS shocks and coils so I suspect it is a linkage arm or bush of sorts? Any ideas?...
Awesome video
Same happend to me so I sold my car then