Thank you URHC, for your videos regarding this saw. I also looked into ways to seal up the cabinet of my G1023RLWX better, to improve the efficacy of the dust collection. I discovered that (aside from the arbor swing slot opening, which you address in this video) the other HUGE air leak, is at the front of the saw where the cabinet sheetmetal meets up with the underside of the table casting. There are several large holes there, into which I stuffed some strips of 3/4" thick urethane foam that I had laying around. Also, there are four openings at the upper corners of the cabinet sheet metal, where the table casting is bolted on. These can also be plugged with foam chunks. The difference in dust collector efficacy is remarkable, when these holes are also plugged up. -Rob
Great upgrade. I did the same using Styrofoam, however upgraded to wood since watching your video. I found a couple other areas that "leak", and took some air flow measurements... here is what I found. An area that significantly boosted suction, when blocked, is the area between the front of the cabinet and under the table (where the cast iron table mounts to the front of the cabinet). I cut out a rectangular piece of Styrofoam about 19.5 by 3.75 inches and wedged it underneath the table. It held on its own, however I used a HF magnetic hook to secure it and haven't had any issues. There are also slots where the table mounts to the cabinet - I covered these with electrical tape and it gave an additional boost. Air flow results: - Blocking the hand-wheel slot, like you did, gave me a 56% boost in suction - Blocking the additional areas I mentioned above gave me an additional 30% boost on top of that. Overall, both mods doubled the air flow through the throat plate (the 30% boost factors in the 56% boost).
I will have to try and block the areas that you suggested because I still do not have the saw dust fully under control. I am starting to think that the plastic blade shield may be part of the problem along with the way part of the 4 inch hose is blocked by dividing the input. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have also saw someone modify the blade shroud to accept a four inch hose. They still had to modify the under side of the blade shroud so it would be completely sealed. In other words, there was no gap between the top of the blade shroud and the bottom of the table. That way there would be zero dust in the cabinet. This set up will provide maximum suction. Anyway interesting video and once again excellent step by step instructions. HAPPY NEW YEAR, Jeff
I saw a comment where someone made it from a simple magnetic sheet. I really like the saw, but have to work on putting a larger dust hose on the blade shroud. Good luck with your new saw. Thanks for watching
I have a different saw than yours, so I had a different experience. I taped over all of the openings of my saw cabinet. Sure enough there was a lot stronger suction through the throat plate opening around the blade. Then I made a few test cuts, but I didn't notice any improvement in the amount of sawdust above the table. Bummer. I thought about it, and realized that while making a cut, especially a rip cut, most of the throat plate opening was covered by the piece of wood that I was cutting. So hardly any air was getting into the cabinet. So although the dust collector was doing a great job of lowering the pressure inside the cabinet, it wasn't moving very much air through the blade shroud. I realized that I want maximum air flow past the blade through the blade shroud. So I removed the tape. Tomorrow, in the interest of maximum air flow, I may get out the Sawzall and cut a few ventilation holes in the cabinet.
There is plenty of airflow from where the top mounts to the cabinet so that doesnt seem to be the problem. The way the 4 inch input is necked down and divided off to the small blade shield hose creates part of the issue. I think a top blade guard hose is the only way to get it all. Thanks for watching
I over did it and taped over the gaps where the top mounts to the cabinet. Also my dust collection is not divided, the whole 4 inch hose is connected to the blade shroud. I think you have found a solution that works well with your saw, but doesn't apply to mine.
Hey thanks! I bought the same saw just a few weeks ago and have been experiencing the same problem. I ended up just picking up some magnetic sheets that are used to cover hvac vents and just cut it down to fit. Thanks for your idea.
This seems to help, but I think someday I will try to install a larger hose on the dust shield also. This saw can make a lot of sawdust fast. Thanks for watching my video.
Agreed. The little hose off of the dust shroud seems like a potential bottleneck. I already had to clear it once because of a few "quick cuts" that I didn't bother to turn on the dust collection.
The Grizzly 833P has a vacuum hose on the blade guard, it's the saw I have upstairs in my shop. Also after watching your video I took a look at my saw and there is a 1/4 gap where the table top sits on the cabinet. My saw may be different than yours.
They are totally different saws. This one goes up and down on gibs and I think yours uses a pivot. These full kerf saws make a lot of dust and I don't think there is a perfect solution to catching it all. Thanks for watching.
I've seen a few videos where is you chang or make a the top plate for the blade to wher it's the size the the blade the suction also improves more. I forgot what it's called.
I have the same saw as you and i agree, the dust collection is not so good. I've tried several things, but the one that works the best is to remove the blade shroud and the hose all together. Very little dust comes up from the back of the blade. So, I'm leaving it as is for now.
I thought about that, but was worried about sawdust accumulating in the moving parts. I am thinking about trying to put a separate 2 1/2 hose on the shield. Blocking this opening has helped to keep the inside of the cabinet clean, and no more sawdust is thrown out that opening when using a dado blade. Thanks for watching.
I covered the openings also. I think that the fan on the motor blows the sawdust out of the openings. I put a piece of cardboard around the motor to divert the air straight to the floor and it really works good. The sawdust covers everything anyway i think. Great vids.
I'm on the verge of buying this saw (G1023RLW). I can't really find anything about how the router extension works with a router lift. Wondering if I should just go with the G1023RL instead.
No it doesn't hold a lift plate. It is basically a great work surface. I recently made a video about hanging a dewalt compact router from the insert for breaking edges. The inserts don't sit flush and a router is mounted with crude clamps. The router is also in the way of accessing the opening for the splitter clamp. I see comments from some that use it for a router but I don't think it is a good option. My saw has been great. Take time to set it up properly when you get it. Thanks for watching.
I am happy with my saw, the only issue I am having is trying to catch the sawdust. I have tried several mods and they seem to help, but I am starting to think the shield around the blade may be contributing to it. It has the power to cut anything that I throw at it and runs real smooth. I have a subscriber that recently bought the 3 hp model and he told me that he has issues with alignment on the blade raising mechanism and runout. Thanks for watching.
I have seen and heard of some people modifying the shroud to better seal the blade shoud to the bottom of the table . There is a gap between the top of the blade shroud and the bottom of the table. This would completely seal and encapsulate the blade and therefore increase suction. Just an idea. ATB, Jeff
The blade shroud hose has very little suction and plugs easily the way it is divided up at the input and looped so the arbor can tilt. There was zero suction around the blade with that big opening and now it has a good flow so this seems to be helping. It would be nice if there was a way to place a bigger separate hose on the blade shield instead of dividing the 4 inch hose up the way they did at the input. This seems to be working good now, but I don't know how a zero clearance insert will affect it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just received the exact saw and have the same issue as you did. I’ve got a temporary fix but I really like your fix it very clean looking. Would you possibly sell me one one?
Sorry I am not set up to sell anything. I have seen comments from some that have just used a magnetic sheet and scissors to make one. Thanks for watching.
This saw is on sale now and I'm thinking of getting it. The router extension looks like something I would replace with a better one. Have you used a router on it yet? Thanks for a great video and good tips for setup.
No the router table is basically useless It is tough to mount the router and the inserts sit low. The rest of the saw has been great. Thanks for watching.
I can't sell anything, only share ideas. It could be made with hand tools. I have seen some that cut a magnetic sheet to do the same thing and if you search the comments someone has posted a 3d model for 3d printing on thingiverse. Thanks for watching.
Sorry I am not set up to sell anything. It would be easy to make with a jigsaw and router or I have seen where some have just used the idea and cut it from a piece of flexible magnetic sheet with a scissor. Thanks for watching.
Believe it or not there are engineers that consider every blessed thing before one of these goes into production. That slit needs to be there or you just tossed out half or more of the saw's usefulness. The other air holes people mention blocking up are part of the scheme to keep the air cooled motor cool. Every cabinet saw is designed the same basic way. Block up the air holes if you want; whether your motor's thermal protection trips or not without that airflow you are running the motor hotter than it was intended to run thus shortening the life of your saw. You need a stronger dust collector.
You are wrong. The motor is off to the side and this air is not for cooling. Actually this causes more air to be pulled in the gaps where the base meets the top in the motor area cooling the motor better and removing dust from the motor enclosure. There is no way to even get this 5 hp motor warm, it's just barely working. The engineers did a subpar job implementing dust collection on this saw model with the whole secondary hose setup blocking off 60% of the hose input. Thanks for watching.
Sorry I can't make anything to sell. I see some have just used a piece of the magnetic backed sheet you can cut with a scissor to accomplish the same thing. Thanks for watching.
When I talked to an accountant about it I was told it would cost about $20k to set up a small manufacturing business legally and to properly handle the sales tax. Then I don't have time to make things so I would have to hire someone. Well with worker laws in NY the comp insurance and other requirements was about $15k a year. Then comes the cost of getting special use permits for the zoning to be able to run a business legally in my property. Spending almost $40k to make a couple dollars legally is not an option.
This increased the airflow over the motor. Motor is on left side with air vents under it. This is a totally sealed fan cooled motor anyway. Think before posting about something you don't know about. Thanks for watching.
i had a similar model and opted to leave the slot open because i didn't have dust collection so i felt i should maximize air flow ,especially considering i lived in an extremely hot climate . just an innocent statement , nothing derogatory , at all .geesh
No I don't think so. It was in fusion 360 and they shut down the free yearly subscriptions so I removed all that related stuff from my system . It's easy to measure and some have just cut one from a magnetic sheet. Thanks for watching
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 I just added a Fusion360 file to Thingiverse see www.thingiverse.com/thing:4894009 Files could be used for CNC or 3-D printer.
Thank you URHC, for your videos regarding this saw. I also looked into ways to seal up the cabinet of my G1023RLWX better, to improve the efficacy of the dust collection. I discovered that (aside from the arbor swing slot opening, which you address in this video) the other HUGE air leak, is at the front of the saw where the cabinet sheetmetal meets up with the underside of the table casting. There are several large holes there, into which I stuffed some strips of 3/4" thick urethane foam that I had laying around. Also, there are four openings at the upper corners of the cabinet sheet metal, where the table casting is bolted on. These can also be plugged with foam chunks. The difference in dust collector efficacy is remarkable, when these holes are also plugged up. -Rob
I still have to drill out that4 inch hole andand a second 2 1/2 hose to the shroud. It's definitely a good saw. Thanks for watching.
Great upgrade. I did the same using Styrofoam, however upgraded to wood since watching your video. I found a couple other areas that "leak", and took some air flow measurements... here is what I found.
An area that significantly boosted suction, when blocked, is the area between the front of the cabinet and under the table (where the cast iron table mounts to the front of the cabinet). I cut out a rectangular piece of Styrofoam about 19.5 by 3.75 inches and wedged it underneath the table. It held on its own, however I used a HF magnetic hook to secure it and haven't had any issues. There are also slots where the table mounts to the cabinet - I covered these with electrical tape and it gave an additional boost.
Air flow results:
- Blocking the hand-wheel slot, like you did, gave me a 56% boost in suction
- Blocking the additional areas I mentioned above gave me an additional 30% boost on top of that.
Overall, both mods doubled the air flow through the throat plate (the 30% boost factors in the 56% boost).
I will have to try and block the areas that you suggested because I still do not have the saw dust fully under control. I am starting to think that the plastic blade shield may be part of the problem along with the way part of the 4 inch hose is blocked by dividing the input. Thanks for the suggestion.
I have also saw someone modify the blade shroud to accept a four inch hose. They still had to modify the under side of the blade shroud so it would be completely sealed. In other words, there was no gap between the top of the blade shroud and the bottom of the table. That way there would be zero dust in the cabinet. This set up will provide maximum suction. Anyway interesting video and once again excellent step by step instructions. HAPPY NEW YEAR, Jeff
i really like those wedges to keep the plywood on the CNC especially the addition of the supper bands and dowels to keep them from vibrating loose.
There's a video about them. Work good as long as you don't use up cut bits. Thanks for watching.
I just ordered this saw today. I will definitely make this addition. Only I'll make it with a jig saw.
I saw a comment where someone made it from a simple magnetic sheet. I really like the saw, but have to work on putting a larger dust hose on the blade shroud. Good luck with your new saw. Thanks for watching
I have a different saw than yours, so I had a different experience.
I taped over all of the openings of my saw cabinet. Sure enough there was a lot stronger suction through the throat plate opening around the blade. Then I made a few test cuts, but I didn't notice any improvement in the amount of sawdust above the table. Bummer.
I thought about it, and realized that while making a cut, especially a rip cut, most of the throat plate opening was covered by the piece of wood that I was cutting. So hardly any air was getting into the cabinet. So although the dust collector was doing a great job of lowering the pressure inside the cabinet, it wasn't moving very much air through the blade shroud.
I realized that I want maximum air flow past the blade through the blade shroud. So I removed the tape. Tomorrow, in the interest of maximum air flow, I may get out the Sawzall and cut a few ventilation holes in the cabinet.
There is plenty of airflow from where the top mounts to the cabinet so that doesnt seem to be the problem. The way the 4 inch input is necked down and divided off to the small blade shield hose creates part of the issue. I think a top blade guard hose is the only way to get it all. Thanks for watching
I over did it and taped over the gaps where the top mounts to the cabinet. Also my dust collection is not divided, the whole 4 inch hose is connected to the blade shroud. I think you have found a solution that works well with your saw, but doesn't apply to mine.
Hey thanks! I bought the same saw just a few weeks ago and have been experiencing the same problem. I ended up just picking up some magnetic sheets that are used to cover hvac vents and just cut it down to fit. Thanks for your idea.
This seems to help, but I think someday I will try to install a larger hose on the dust shield also. This saw can make a lot of sawdust fast. Thanks for watching my video.
Agreed. The little hose off of the dust shroud seems like a potential bottleneck. I already had to clear it once because of a few "quick cuts" that I didn't bother to turn on the dust collection.
I find the small cutoffs that get pulled into the hose cause the biggest problem. Going to try a zero clearance insert next.
Did the same thing to mine. I painted mine to match the saw base‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
It helps with some of the sawdust. The saw still could use a hose on the top guard. Thanks for watching.
The Grizzly 833P has a vacuum hose on the blade guard, it's the saw I have upstairs in my shop. Also after watching your video
I took a look at my saw and there is a 1/4 gap where the table top sits on the cabinet. My saw may be different than yours.
They are totally different saws. This one goes up and down on gibs and I think yours uses a pivot. These full kerf saws make a lot of dust and I don't think there is a perfect solution to catching it all. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the info, my saw is much smaller. My wants are much greater than my wallet content.
I've seen a few videos where is you chang or make a the top plate for the blade to wher it's the size the the blade the suction also improves more. I forgot what it's called.
A zero clearance insert. I find 1/2 plywood works good. Just copy the metal one. Thanks for watching.
I have the same saw as you and i agree, the dust collection is not so good. I've tried several things, but the one that works the best is to remove the blade shroud and the hose all together. Very little dust comes up from the back of the blade. So, I'm leaving it as is for now.
I thought about that, but was worried about sawdust accumulating in the moving parts. I am thinking about trying to put a separate 2 1/2 hose on the shield. Blocking this opening has helped to keep the inside of the cabinet clean, and no more sawdust is thrown out that opening when using a dado blade. Thanks for watching.
I covered the openings also. I think that the fan on the motor blows the sawdust out of the openings. I put a piece of cardboard around the motor to divert the air straight to the floor and it really works good. The sawdust covers everything anyway i think. Great vids.
My rlwx will deliver next week. Ever think of making these and selling? I’d buy one.
Not setup to sell anything. Someone has made a 3d print file of this on thingiverse that is the easiest option. Thanks for watching.
I'm on the verge of buying this saw (G1023RLW). I can't really find anything about how the router extension works with a router lift. Wondering if I should just go with the G1023RL instead.
No it doesn't hold a lift plate. It is basically a great work surface. I recently made a video about hanging a dewalt compact router from the insert for breaking edges. The inserts don't sit flush and a router is mounted with crude clamps. The router is also in the way of accessing the opening for the splitter clamp. I see comments from some that use it for a router but I don't think it is a good option. My saw has been great. Take time to set it up properly when you get it. Thanks for watching.
That's definitely an upgrade to what i use. That looks awesome i have that exact same cabinet saw. Do you sell those?
No, sorry. I have seen where some people just cut them out of magnetic sheets with scissors now that work good. Thanks for watching.
Ok thanks good content will definitely do one for mine
This is a great idea. I am going to be purchasing this same saw within the next couple of weeks, and you're giving me good ideas for mods. Thanks.
I am happy with my saw, the only issue I am having is trying to catch the sawdust. I have tried several mods and they seem to help, but I am starting to think the shield around the blade may be contributing to it. It has the power to cut anything that I throw at it and runs real smooth. I have a subscriber that recently bought the 3 hp model and he told me that he has issues with alignment on the blade raising mechanism and runout. Thanks for watching.
I have seen and heard of some people modifying the shroud to better seal the blade shoud to the bottom of the table . There is a gap between the top of the blade shroud and the bottom of the table. This would completely seal and encapsulate the blade and therefore increase suction. Just an idea. ATB, Jeff
The blade shroud hose has very little suction and plugs easily the way it is divided up at the input and looped so the arbor can tilt. There was zero suction around the blade with that big opening and now it has a good flow so this seems to be helping. It would be nice if there was a way to place a bigger separate hose on the blade shield instead of dividing the 4 inch hose up the way they did at the input. This seems to be working good now, but I don't know how a zero clearance insert will affect it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just received the exact saw and have the same issue as you did. I’ve got a temporary fix but I really like your fix it very clean looking. Would you possibly sell me one one?
Sorry I am not set up to sell anything. I have seen comments from some that have just used a magnetic sheet and scissors to make one. Thanks for watching.
This saw is on sale now and I'm thinking of getting it. The router extension looks like something I would replace with a better one. Have you used a router on it yet? Thanks for a great video and good tips for setup.
No the router table is basically useless It is tough to mount the router and the inserts sit low. The rest of the saw has been great. Thanks for watching.
This is great, thank you. I was looking into an overhead hood but I’m definitely trying this first. Would you be willing to share the dxf file?
I don't have the files but if you check the comments a viewer has uploaded a 3d printable file to thingiverse. Thanks for watching.
Do you make this for the G1023RXL5 tablesaw. If so, send me your link
Sorry, I am not set up to make anything to sell. Just share ideas. Thanks for watching.
yeah man great idea. i dont have a cnc machine laying around so I've been using tape ;)
I see some comments that a piece of magnetic sheet is easy to cut and works great also.. Thanks for watching.
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 too funny you posted this now, i was just looking for magnetic sheets on amazon just for this application
I just found this on Amazon amzn.to/2TcmuO5 wonder if it would fit.
Are you willing to make and sale? I do not have a CNC router and this would be perfect for my 1023RL.
I can't sell anything, only share ideas. It could be made with hand tools. I have seen some that cut a magnetic sheet to do the same thing and if you search the comments someone has posted a 3d model for 3d printing on thingiverse. Thanks for watching.
what are you using to remotely control your vacuum system?
a simple 120v remote controlling a 2 pole 120 volt coil contactor in the box. Thanks for watching.
Make one for the 22.5 degree and your done. Seems grizzly would make a system for their saws.
It would be nice if there was a way to hook a hose to the top guard. Great saw. Thanks for watching.
I would love to have one of these for my Grizzly G0691 Tabe Saw. I'll pay you for it. So how can I get one? I don't have a CNC.
Sorry I am not set up to sell anything. It would be easy to make with a jigsaw and router or I have seen where some have just used the idea and cut it from a piece of flexible magnetic sheet with a scissor. Thanks for watching.
Believe it or not there are engineers that consider every blessed thing before one of these goes into production. That slit needs to be there or you just tossed out half or more of the saw's usefulness. The other air holes people mention blocking up are part of the scheme to keep the air cooled motor cool. Every cabinet saw is designed the same basic way. Block up the air holes if you want; whether your motor's thermal protection trips or not without that airflow you are running the motor hotter than it was intended to run thus shortening the life of your saw. You need a stronger dust collector.
You are wrong. The motor is off to the side and this air is not for cooling. Actually this causes more air to be pulled in the gaps where the base meets the top in the motor area cooling the motor better and removing dust from the motor enclosure. There is no way to even get this 5 hp motor warm, it's just barely working. The engineers did a subpar job implementing dust collection on this saw model with the whole secondary hose setup blocking off 60% of the hose input. Thanks for watching.
Any chance you would be willing to make another and sell it?
Sorry I can't make anything to sell. I see some have just used a piece of the magnetic backed sheet you can cut with a scissor to accomplish the same thing. Thanks for watching.
When I talked to an accountant about it I was told it would cost about $20k to set up a small manufacturing business legally and to properly handle the sales tax. Then I don't have time to make things so I would have to hire someone. Well with worker laws in NY the comp insurance and other requirements was about $15k a year. Then comes the cost of getting special use permits for the zoning to be able to run a business legally in my property. Spending almost $40k to make a couple dollars legally is not an option.
Awsome thanks
In the comments someone placed a link to thingiverse where he turned it into a 3d printed file. Thanks for watching.
Can you make one of these for me and how much
No. It's easy to make your own. Someone made a 3d print file on thingiverse of it I have been told. Thanks for watching.
Decreasing air flow over the motor does not seem like a good thing . Grizzly probably left that space ope for a reason
This increased the airflow over the motor. Motor is on left side with air vents under it. This is a totally sealed fan cooled motor anyway. Think before posting about something you don't know about. Thanks for watching.
i had a similar model and opted to leave the slot open because i didn't have dust collection so i felt i should maximize air flow ,especially considering i lived in an extremely hot climate . just an innocent statement , nothing derogatory , at all .geesh
Well done sir.
Thanks for watching my video
Do You have the CNC CRV file that you could share? I want to make one of these so bad! Thanks Rob
No I don't think so. It was in fusion 360 and they shut down the free yearly subscriptions so I removed all that related stuff from my system . It's easy to measure and some have just cut one from a magnetic sheet. Thanks for watching
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 I just added a Fusion360 file to Thingiverse see www.thingiverse.com/thing:4894009 Files could be used for CNC or 3-D printer.
@@josephmorris3510 Any chance you have a .dxf file ? I use Aspire and I cant get the f3d to convert for me. Thanks
@@claymorgan9842 No I don't, Clay. Sorry.
I have used duct tape. It is easier.
that works but must be replaced after tilting. Many use magnetic sheeting also that is removable. Thanks for watching.