the reason your 1uz makes that clicking noise before it starts is because one of the throttle body sensors is not on properly and causing it to mess up, remove it and put it on the right way, got rid of my clicking noise as soon as i did it, i think its the throttle position sensor if not its the one next to it
Yes that’s actually your traction control system. The throttle body flap closest to the airbox. I just unplugged it and it went away. I don’t want traction control anyways
Yes bro this is why. That little valve controls your idle when you come to a stop or in park. So if you do this and unplug it it will work. If you have any questions please comment on here and I’ll reply. I will probably make a new video explaining this better.
Mine was jumping up down, i cleaned this thing now it starts perfect then warms up or on traffic lights sits on 200 -250 rpm feels like want to die. What it could be any suggestions will be appreciated 🙏🏼
I know something that will help raise your idle is remove your throttle body and give it a very good clean. It raised my idle about 450rpm I was doing the valve cover gaskets and I took it off and it was absolutely caked and plugged up. I soaked it in brake cleaner and let it sit and got all the carbon off of it. The throttle body normal lets a tiny bit of air in the intake. Even when fully closed there is a small crack to let air in. Mine was completely plugged. Remove it completely and give it a shot!
@@pushhrodd01 i did it bro, it was mess cleaned it but got broken throttle body gaskit. I bolted it back like that. May be it’s getting air from there.
@@gursewaksandhu8996 oh yeah mine did the exact same thing. It cracked got one at oreilys for $6 it’s worth it you definitely don’t want a vacuum leak that will make the computer think it’s getting more air
Mine was like that too so I changed plugs wires and rotor then cleaned throttle body as well as iacv. Now mine is idling over 1000 in nuetral and park and sits at 900-1000 in drive or reverse which isn’t that good because at first it was idling too low and now it is idling too high.
Hey so mine idles about 1,100rpm... i recently had the ecu rebuilt and initially thought it was the ecu re learning, could this be the reason why im idling so high?
Was it doing it before you got it rebuilt? If not then yes the ECU could very well just be learning the idle. If it persists after 100 miles I would definitely say it’s the idle air valve
Yes that’s definitely this valve. The valve is starting to malfunction. You can either find a new one or do this and bypass it. Adjust the valve at your will. If you do it and your idle is too high spin it 1.5 turns from the starting mark.
@@pushhrodd01my sc was doing the same thing stopped at a light. Would idle like at 200-300. I cleaned the iacvalve from the outside but didn’t take it apart because I was scared of stripping the screws cuz the parts pretty old. But after I put it back in my car was idling really high. Like almost 2000 and once warmed up it was sitting at 1400. Me and my friend were adjusting the idle a little and got it down to like 900 in drive at stops but in park and neutral still idles around 1200. Think I should just replace the valve with a brand new one or take it apart and clean it ?
You keep it unplugged? I’m confused does it fix the issue with it unplugged because it’s not telling the system to open and close the valve in the IACV?
Yes. Because you are manually turning the valve to stay open at one location. That location provides perfect idle. If it idles to high or tow you can spin it another 1/4 turn to get it where you like it. If you plug it back in since the valve is not working properly it will just glitch out and open and close at the wrong times which will cause a bad idle again.
@@toeneehonestly I believe I eventually went to 1 turn and then another quarter of a turn because 1 turn was like 950 rpm’s which was a little too high for me. You just have to play with it and set it where you like. I recommend in between 1.25 and 1.50 turns.
@@pushhrodd01 Ive got a video with me driving it can I send it to you just so you can confirm we have the same issue. Do you have a instagram or facebook?
1jz 2jz 1uz idle not working properly Frist clean idle valve hole and throttle The n cheack your cts sensor You must use thermostat if not the system will not operate properly Cheack if iacv is gitting 12v In tow middle pins Cheack that cts sensor is gitting 5 v when the switch is on position Cheack the cts feed back pin in ecu by multimeter Cheack wiring harness for shorts its only gitting 12 v in middle pins if 3 or 4 or all wire in iacv gitting 12 v y have short in wiring Last replace ECU or cheack it looking for damge capaster
Ive tried this trick with both the original ICV and a new ICV and both have still had the problem of jumping from 1500 rpm to 2500 rpm, ive tried a full and one and a half turns on both but neither make a difference. any thoughts on maybe why this would be happening?
Really?? That’s very strange. Try turning it all the way out to where the plunger will be fully extended out. The car should stall out. Remember you have to leave it unplugged. You can’t plug it back in. If the iacv is unplugged and not moving there is no way for the car to revup.
@@4kVisualizer What ended up workin for me is turning it 3 1/4ths and re-installing it. it might be different for everyone, 3 1/2 turns wasnt good and 3 wasnt good, its a pain to keep taking it in and out but 4 months after doing so i've had 0 problems. for refference mines a 1994 sc400 with 130k miles, mayeb if its older or higher miles, you might have to turn it more? not entirely sure. I really hope this helps, gotta preserve the sc gems that are still in the world
@jasonfigueroa4112 3 tries later I got it to idle at 600 with 2 1/2 turns for me. Thanks for the input. I wouldn't have tried again without you making me second guess.
You’re right.. I’m going to change the title. The part is around $600 USD which is ridiculous and you have to swap out the whole assembly where it mounts as well as its different from 92-94. It’s just a magnet with roller bearings no idea why it’s so expensive.
ty bro only easy vid i seen. i need to do this today once mine warms up it goes to like 200 rpms 😭
Your welcome! That’s exactly what mine was doing! I rushed this video so if you have any questions at all please feel free to ask!
All perfect but only the wire connector should we connect after or before you didn't show.........
I suggest to clean or replace it but dont by pass iacv its important to keep your car drive smoothly
nice going to try this as my car wont idle atall
the reason your 1uz makes that clicking noise before it starts is because one of the throttle body sensors is not on properly and causing it to mess up, remove it and put it on the right way, got rid of my clicking noise as soon as i did it, i think its the throttle position sensor if not its the one next to it
Yes that’s actually your traction control system. The throttle body flap closest to the airbox. I just unplugged it and it went away. I don’t want traction control anyways
Going to try this thank you bro any reason why my sc400 dies when I turn the ac off while driving and come to a stop
Yes bro this is why. That little valve controls your idle when you come to a stop or in park. So if you do this and unplug it it will work.
If you have any questions please comment on here and I’ll reply. I will probably make a new video explaining this better.
Does this work even if the idle air control valve does not respond to voltage ?
Yes this completely eiminstes this issue 100% it gets rid of the entire thing
Mine was jumping up down, i cleaned this thing now it starts perfect then warms up or on traffic lights sits on 200 -250 rpm feels like want to die. What it could be any suggestions will be appreciated 🙏🏼
I know something that will help raise your idle is remove your throttle body and give it a very good clean. It raised my idle about 450rpm
I was doing the valve cover gaskets and I took it off and it was absolutely caked and plugged up. I soaked it in brake cleaner and let it sit and got all the carbon off of it. The throttle body normal lets a tiny bit of air in the intake. Even when fully closed there is a small crack to let air in. Mine was completely plugged. Remove it completely and give it a shot!
@@pushhrodd01 i did it bro, it was mess cleaned it but got broken throttle body gaskit. I bolted it back like that. May be it’s getting air from there.
@@gursewaksandhu8996 oh yeah mine did the exact same thing. It cracked got one at oreilys for $6 it’s worth it you definitely don’t want a vacuum leak that will make the computer think it’s getting more air
@@pushhrodd01 i will get one soon
Mine was like that too so I changed plugs wires and rotor then cleaned throttle body as well as iacv. Now mine is idling over 1000 in nuetral and park and sits at 900-1000 in drive or reverse which isn’t that good because at first it was idling too low and now it is idling too high.
i have issues with my iac, it jumps to almost 2k rpms just idling alone, going to replace the part itself tomorrow
I would buy new if i were you. It’s $500+ but it’s worth it. Junkyard ones are 25-30 years old and are going to break again.
Hey so mine idles about 1,100rpm... i recently had the ecu rebuilt and initially thought it was the ecu re learning, could this be the reason why im idling so high?
Was it doing it before you got it rebuilt? If not then yes the ECU could very well just be learning the idle. If it persists after 100 miles I would definitely say it’s the idle air valve
@@pushhrodd01 yes it started to idle higher after getting ECU rebuilt
And No it idle perfectly before ECU
My idle jumps a little up and down and wants to stall when stoped at a light will this fix that issue ?
Yes that’s definitely this valve. The valve is starting to malfunction. You can either find a new one or do this and bypass it. Adjust the valve at your will. If you do it and your idle is too high spin it 1.5 turns from the starting mark.
@@pushhrodd01my sc was doing the same thing stopped at a light. Would idle like at 200-300. I cleaned the iacvalve from the outside but didn’t take it apart because I was scared of stripping the screws cuz the parts pretty old. But after I put it back in my car was idling really high. Like almost 2000 and once warmed up it was sitting at 1400. Me and my friend were adjusting the idle a little and got it down to like 900 in drive at stops but in park and neutral still idles around 1200. Think I should just replace the valve with a brand new one or take it apart and clean it ?
You keep it unplugged? I’m confused does it fix the issue with it unplugged because it’s not telling the system to open and close the valve in the IACV?
Yes. Because you are manually turning the valve to stay open at one location. That location provides perfect idle. If it idles to high or tow you can spin it another 1/4 turn to get it where you like it.
If you plug it back in since the valve is not working properly it will just glitch out and open and close at the wrong times which will cause a bad idle again.
@@pushhrodd01 Ok so the one exact rotaion is the perfect idle
@@toeneehonestly I believe I eventually went to 1 turn and then another quarter of a turn because 1 turn was like 950 rpm’s which was a little too high for me. You just have to play with it and set it where you like. I recommend in between 1.25 and 1.50 turns.
@@pushhrodd01 Ive got a video with me driving it can I send it to you just so you can confirm we have the same issue. Do you have a instagram or facebook?
Could this explain why mine rough idles? It rough idles horribly to the point of the engine feeling like it’s about to jump out and walk home.
Yes. If it’s only at idle then yes. If it sputters while driving or flooring it that’s a different issue.
1jz 2jz 1uz idle not working properly
Frist clean idle valve hole and throttle
The n cheack your cts sensor
You must use thermostat if not the system will not operate properly
Cheack if iacv is gitting 12v
In tow middle pins
Cheack that cts sensor is gitting 5 v when the switch is on position
Cheack the cts feed back pin in ecu by multimeter
Cheack wiring harness for shorts its only gitting 12 v in middle pins if 3 or 4 or all wire in iacv gitting 12 v y have short in wiring
Last replace ECU or cheack it looking for damge capaster
Ive tried this trick with both the original ICV and a new ICV and both have still had the problem of jumping from 1500 rpm to 2500 rpm, ive tried a full and one and a half turns on both but neither make a difference. any thoughts on maybe why this would be happening?
Really?? That’s very strange. Try turning it all the way out to where the plunger will be fully extended out. The car should stall out. Remember you have to leave it unplugged. You can’t plug it back in. If the iacv is unplugged and not moving there is no way for the car to revup.
Likely that your ecu is bad.
You ever figure this out? Dealing with the Same issue now.
@@4kVisualizer What ended up workin for me is turning it 3 1/4ths and re-installing it. it might be different for everyone, 3 1/2 turns wasnt good and 3 wasnt good, its a pain to keep taking it in and out but 4 months after doing so i've had 0 problems. for refference mines a 1994 sc400 with 130k miles, mayeb if its older or higher miles, you might have to turn it more? not entirely sure. I really hope this helps, gotta preserve the sc gems that are still in the world
@jasonfigueroa4112 3 tries later I got it to idle at 600 with 2 1/2 turns for me. Thanks for the input. I wouldn't have tried again without you making me second guess.
I did it and the rpm goes for 2.00
The info is appreciated but this is more of a rig, not a fix.
Wish the damn part wasn't so effin expensive...ridiculous!
You’re right.. I’m going to change the title. The part is around $600 USD which is ridiculous and you have to swap out the whole assembly where it mounts as well as its different from 92-94.
It’s just a magnet with roller bearings no idea why it’s so expensive.