Rob thanks for sharing your bowl methods with us. I think most CNC's realize the amount of effort and time you put into these videos and the project itself.
David thank you for your positive words and the taking time to make a comment. I really do try to give people information that they may not have previously had or at least provide a different perspective for them to consider.
Corbin does awesome work, but I think some people struggle with how to use Fusion and this can make some of Corbin's videos hard to understand how thos of us that don't use Fusion can use his files. I like to show how his beautiful designs can be used by people that have Vectric software.
Awesome Video Rob! You and I communicate often and I have made several of Corbin’s designs. This video series will definitely bridge the gap between F360 users and Vectric users. I hope many of your viewers purchase these plans and make this project, it has a “wow” factor that is hard to describe until you hold the completed project in your hands.
Rob, this is excellent! I had watched Corbin’s video(s) and while I appreciate his work I like your approach showing stuff that gets glossed over by the experts. Keep it up. Now on to part two.
Great video Rob, i think i will try this. I have couple of questions: 1) do you have a list of the router bits you used on this project? 2) when you surfaced the top of the bowl after the epoxy pour and measured the thickenss, did you have to go back and rerun the tool paths with the new thickness? thank you tony
I think you would enjoy the project. I thought I had listed the bits, with discount codes in the description and based on your question discovered I had not. I have added them so they are in the video description and better than trying to fit in this comments section. Do I find search in the description and you will see them. If not let me know and I can put more specifics in the comment. As for resetting everything after surfacing, I did not recalculate tool paths. As you note the tool paths are calculated on the thickness of the block (which was actually about 0.02" thinner based on the surfacing). Technically, as you suggest I should have made the block thickness 2.48" vs. 2.5" after resurfacing. That would've been the most accurate and best thing to do but I did not. Unfortunately, until you asked the question I didn't think about and didn't notice any issues with carving the model even though I left the original thickness.
Very nice! Where did you get your 1/8" tapered ball nose with a 2" length of cut? (Did I read that right?) I couldn't find it in the resources on your website.
Thank you for letting me know it isn't on there. May need to look closer at what I posted. I got fro RIPPRECISIOMNTOOLS.com. here is a affiliate link and referral code for a small discount: Ripprecision Tools: www.ripprecisiontools.com/?ref=692c5q8z Referral Code: ROBSANDSTROM
I just went to website and see they have more than one. The SKU for the longer cutting length is SKU: RTBN-125X37525F4. Direct link: www.ripprecisiontools.com/product-page/3-8-taper-ball-nose
Rob thanks for sharing your bowl methods with us. I think most CNC's realize the amount of effort and time you put into these videos and the project itself.
David thank you for your positive words and the taking time to make a comment. I really do try to give people information that they may not have previously had or at least provide a different perspective for them to consider.
I love Corbin’s work but his level is way over my head. I appreciate you doing this. I am looking forward to seeing part 2!
Corbin does awesome work, but I think some people struggle with how to use Fusion and this can make some of Corbin's videos hard to understand how thos of us that don't use Fusion can use his files. I like to show how his beautiful designs can be used by people that have Vectric software.
Awesome Video Rob! You and I communicate often and I have made several of Corbin’s designs. This video series will definitely bridge the gap between F360 users and Vectric users. I hope many of your viewers purchase these plans and make this project, it has a “wow” factor that is hard to describe until you hold the completed project in your hands.
Appreciate all the support you have provided me and the guidance during this project.
Rob, this is excellent! I had watched Corbin’s video(s) and while I appreciate his work I like your approach showing stuff that gets glossed over by the experts. Keep it up. Now on to part two.
Thank you for the positive support.
I have seen this process before, this is great thank you for posting Rob!!!!
Thank you for taking time to provide feedback it’s much appreciated
Good Job Rob.
Thank you for the poistive feedback and leaving a comment.
great video Rob nice job
Thank you, John for taking the time to provide a comment and feedback. Much appreciated.
Looks good brother good information..
Thank you for your support Dan.
Great video Rob, i think i will try this. I have couple of questions:
1) do you have a list of the router bits you used on this project?
2) when you surfaced the top of the bowl after the epoxy pour and measured the thickenss, did you have to go back and rerun the tool paths with the new thickness?
thank you
tony
I think you would enjoy the project. I thought I had listed the bits, with discount codes in the description and based on your question discovered I had not. I have added them so they are in the video description and better than trying to fit in this comments section. Do I find search in the description and you will see them. If not let me know and I can put more specifics in the comment.
As for resetting everything after surfacing, I did not recalculate tool paths. As you note the tool paths are calculated on the thickness of the block (which was actually about 0.02" thinner based on the surfacing). Technically, as you suggest I should have made the block thickness 2.48" vs. 2.5" after resurfacing. That would've been the most accurate and best thing to do but I did not. Unfortunately, until you asked the question I didn't think about and didn't notice any issues with carving the model even though I left the original thickness.
Very nice! Where did you get your 1/8" tapered ball nose with a 2" length of cut? (Did I read that right?) I couldn't find it in the resources on your website.
Thank you for letting me know it isn't on there. May need to look closer at what I posted. I got fro RIPPRECISIOMNTOOLS.com. here is a affiliate link and referral code for a small discount: Ripprecision Tools: www.ripprecisiontools.com/?ref=692c5q8z
Referral Code: ROBSANDSTROM
I just went to website and see they have more than one. The SKU for the longer cutting length is SKU: RTBN-125X37525F4. Direct link: www.ripprecisiontools.com/product-page/3-8-taper-ball-nose
Great video Rob!