Usually I'd be happy to be next in line behind Uncle B to take a stab at a sloppy seconds joke when it comes to someone's missus... However, I'm going to abort, and go with Plan B (*snort*): B serious! I think YarTub's vijeo recommendation algorithm is knackered as of late. Because despite never watching a rap video on my account, the last month my Home Feed page has had roughly a dozen of them recommended to me every day. 🤷♂️
Playing in a machinery repair shop for the past decade, I've learned to just skip to welding the nut on. The only thing I do different is welding a washer to the stud first, then weld the nut on. In case your at an angle like you are in this video and you have a spot inside the nut you cannot fill with weld, it let's you weld the washer and nut together to substitute not getting a full weld on the inside, as well as providing a larger surface area to weld a larger nut on. For smaller bolts I'm afraid I'm going to snap, I'm fond of turning a cutting torch down low and holding it far enough away that the bolt very slowly heats up until its cherry red, then dumping water on it to cool it off and shock it. They generally come without issue then. It works on broken ones as well, just weld a nut on after shocking them. Also, don't grind on the surface of a sheared bolt if you want to heat it with a torch, they become reflective and you have a far harder time getting them to heat up without overheating the surrounding area and preventing the temperature difference in the materials from working its magic. I'm sorry for writing a novel, but I hope it helps somebody someday.
I've found starting a drill helps the weld heat up the threads quicker. The faster you can heat the bolt and what it's threaded into, the better. In same same vein, using a stick welder, and some hot electrodes helps.
@@danl.4743 if the bolt is broken below the surface of the material you mean? It's harder, and a good bit is experience but Tim Hunter is absolutely correct in saying a stick welder is helpful. You need to start a bead on the center of the bolt and build up a weld that covers a majority of it, I would say roughly 3/4 the diameter of the bolt is sufficient. Once you get that first weld down, chip the top of the weld and leave the slag in the hole. That's the key. The slag will build up as you repeat the welding and chipping process and will help prevent the weld from rolling into the wall of the hole you are working in. If you thinking the bolt or weld may be getting a bit too hot, stop the process for a while to allow it to cool. Also, stick provides more visibility into the hole by simply being small. It's absolutely the way to go. Once you have it built up and get your nut and washer welded on, make sure you leave it cool for 15 minutes or so, and go get a breaker bar to work it loose with. If you crank on the thing too hard or too soon you may very well twist your weld apart and start again. Use the breaker bar and work it back and forth. it won't move much at first, but it will eventually come. The entire thing is slow and careful, but it's not as rough as it sounds. Just relax and go slow and steady. I wish I could show a picture of it on here, but I have a broken idler bolt from a D11 bulldozer I removed with this process in my toolbox. I stacked weld about 3.5 inches to get it built back up to where a nut could be welded on and removed. Definitely one of my most impressive pulls.
Dealing with this now. Oil pan on 96 f150. Figured it would take me a full day. Another day for the trans lines. Day 3 and jus got the pan out, havent even extracted the 2 broken exhaust manifold studs. Every single thing ive touched has been a horror show. Nothing has gone easy. The truck is in great shape, but underneath all the fasteners n everything is rusted. The joy of living in new england/boston where winter roads destroy our cars. Not even my car im working on.
The washer also lets the heat spread away flatter instead of out toward the nut so its less likely to break. I usually use vice grips to turn the washer instead of wasting time/ consumables adding a nut on top.
I've removed quite a few broken bolts via ez-outs /extractors, torches and the good ol' weld a nut to the damn thing and twist. Never tried a washer on the smaller PITA fasteners. I'll keep that in my trick bag for later use. Thanks Osseo.
Word to the wise. Learn from my genius. Do not remove the welded on nut with your figures no matter how easy it spins right after you get your weld kit off.
We have an electrician at work that is like a moth to flame if there is something hot in the vice that he couldn't get apart. I warn him and he still does it after nearly 20 years of working together.
@@--_DJ_-- Electricians are masochists.. They prefer tactile trouble shooting. Just look all the electro-torture stuff in S&M? coincidence? I think not!
I’ll admit, for me it always feels like a lesser known Christmas Miracle when welding a nut on to a broken stud works, and does not make the problem significantly worse. Like accidentally welding both the stud and the nut to the fixture the stud is stuck in.
99.9% of the time I just skip all the other steps and go straight to welding a nut on the snapped bolt. The other methods have cost me countless hours, and caused any nearby children to pick up a vile vernacular.
Hey, with the lefty drills, drill a pilot hole first at least bigger than the web so that with out all that feed pressure it will grab. The harder the bolt the bigger the pilot hole you'll need to get it to grab without a bunch of feed pressure. I start at about haft the drills size for a pilot in the 1/4 - 1/2 range of drills in grade 5 hardware and seems to work.
I wanted to say the same thing, but I realized that I would also go straight for the big bit, knowing full well that I should go gradual. It's just one of those time/patience management things... Especially when you already have alternative approaches lined up!
@@graealex no method works 100% of the time for removing a bolt if you're trying to save the threads. Sometimes they are cross threaded or seized to bad.
@@shanemayers777 Just saying directly jumping to the method with the best chances of working is a time saver. Maybe it's survivor bias, and we're never thinking about the times when the left-handed drills extracted a bolt, but my gut feeling is that it never works right with them.
Took me back to a similar situation where I had the privilege to be a bystander. Old mate cursing the lack of room to get access to the broken off bolt, when up rolls the veteran fitter and turner. The Veteran looked, wandered off, then came back with a right-angle drill, and a set of left hand STUBBY drill bits. Only time I've ever seen them.
About two months ago I was replacing the shears on a 4 ton rock crusher. They were held in with 4 large bolts per blade, which were countersunk as well as utilized Alan keys. The short version of that two days worth of begging, bargaining, and murderous rage was that the only way to extract those bolts was by welding nuts on each of them.
Wow that machine must be pretty big to be able to crush four ton rocks. If you're doing four at once, couldn't you just use a one ton rock crusher? Suppose it would take four times as long then.
Alan key bolts are bad but i have dealt with torx head bolts used on a damn water pump. General motors thought this was a good idea on the Camaro and firebird motors back in the 90's...trust me it was not a good idea...
Trick to Allen/torx is to fill the head with some cheap epoxy when you install them. Then when you goto remove it, just heat the head up, and the epoxy comes out in one chunk. Then the head is clear and clean. No rust and dirt to gum up the key.
I imagine the size of those allens were massive! Not that it would have worked in your situation but using valve lapping compound (basically sandpaper paste) can make a huge difference when removing allen and torx fasteners. Mac tools also make what they call RBRT (Rounded Bolt Removal Technology) sockets in allen and torx which work wonders for removing stuck fasteners (may not be available in 4 ton rock crusher size 🤣) Good job with the nut I'm glad you got them out 👍
A new block over a broken bolt/stud? Damn. How bad did you jack up removing it? Or did you not think removing it was possible? Even if you mess up removing it, theres always heli-coils or timecerts. 3 years isnt that long ago. Surprised you didnt google it before going for a new block.
Back in the 90s I lived for several years with a girl who was an HT in the Navy. She looked like Farrah Fawcett and had a mouth like a truck driver. Now I see why.
@@Dave001968 I only just realised the blue time stamp is a clicky link. I don't watch TV. I youtube for hours every night. Have done for years. I just learnt something new.
you didn't even devolve into looking at prices to just replace the part before deciding "too rich for my blood", nor did you arrive at, "fuck it, it just lives there now". I'm proud of you.
There's a key thing to know when it comes to welding the nut. Leave a small gap between the nut and the piece with the broken bolt. If you position the nut up tight to the work piece the weld will shrink and likely crack. Often you can hear it when it does.
BINGO! You get it exactly. It's a stress point. Any sudden change in size or sharp corner is a stress point. I weld some material on it first, just build it up, so it TAPERS up larger. Then weld a nut, washer, whatever, on THAT if needed. But it wasn't necessary this time, and knowing this guy......some aiming assistance was a safe choice.
The only reason that bolt came out was because of the well placed and appropriate timed F-bomb. My welding skills aren’t any better from watching your vijeos but my foul garage language has greatly improved, thanks!
Man, those last 30 seconds really show the depth of experience here. Such an easy & familiar action, even with those gloves on. Proof that practice makes perfect.
Always remove the grounded battery terminal first, that way if the wrench touches the chassis, you don't cause a short. Or in my uncle's case when your wedding ring gets caught between the wrench and the chassis, it doesn't turn red, with a distinct barbecue aroma.
Remember those metal springy watch bands? I did that very thing with my watch band back in the 70s. Still have scar on my wrist. Wife does not understand my aversion to all jewelry on my glorious body.
Use black nuts if you got em or drill the centers to remove the zinc / passivation. Makes it so much easier to weld to the broken fastener and start the arc!
I like at 4:57 when the mechanic in you comes out! TALK to it, made me chuckle early in the morning. Been using that method for years. An even bigger surprise than when you whip out the left hand drill bits on a newbie. Thanks for the content.
Lol. Was drilling a bolt the other day with some leftwing nutters. My 80 year old neighbor was diligently watching and without missing a beat, asked if the bit I was using was getting me anywhere. Now, being that he's a wise old guy, he uses his telescoping magnet to slide the object containing the rest of the bits closer for him to pick up. I knew what he was up to. He's ready to bust my stones, but before doing so... Experience pushed him to read that it was left handed. Silence ensued. In return, I busted his stones because I knew exactly what he was up to.
These days being the impatient type I just head straight for the MIG in this kind of situation. I try and fill the nut in one go to get max heat into the bolt. Usually let it cool some too. Good work 😀
Okay lets understand I worked as a bona-fide truck coach mechanic 👍 but you sir have a great way of making just things well rather humorous so thankyou and someone else will learn 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍
Very interesting! Never seen anyone use the 'weld a nut to it' method before, Ill be using that one in the future! A while ago, I was working on a refrigeration compressor, and there is an oil fitting that screws in at a weird angle, and its made of the finest chinesium, and wouldn't you know it, trying to remove it broke the dang thing off right at the surface. No problem, Its a tube, break out an extractor tap and twist it out. HA, broke that sucker off in the hole too. Real smooth move... Fortunately I was able to take the piece off and take it home, spent probably 3h trying to extract it. Used a torch, chisels, drills, and more to remove the chunk of hardened tap remover, then had to custom grind a cold punch into a sorta chisel shape to scrape the tube out until I could peel out section of it. Such a pain, but dang it was satisfying removing the last chunk of pipe from the threads. And in the end the threads were still good!
That's the best method for stubborn sheared off bolts. Now maybe I am inspired enough to remove the one halting progress on my project... It turned out easy at the end. I'm glad we got to see that part.
Absolutely agree the welder is always the most effective solution. Also when you've got a stuck bearing outer race, my favourite thing to do is to weld on the inside of it and then it just pops out like magic.
I'm surprised how many people that I've dealt with in these situation don't know about left hand drill bits. I usually never feel confident it'll extract it but figure I'd be drilling a hole for a proper extractor any way but then lo and behold she'll back right out. Talk about a good feeling!
A lot of great advice here, and thanks for taking the time to film this. My only thought on it was, maybe put the pin in first before backing the broken stud out, that way the bolt doesn't bind on the way out.
Makita makes the smallest tight quarter right angle drill. The chuck is somewhat recessed. This has saved my bacon many a time in a tight spot. Same thing with stubby drill bits. That drill would make short work of that task. I can't believe I can help here, you are so brilliant. In our trade we do a lot of tight quarters drilling. It is a corded drill, so plenty of juice for hardened bolts. I always sharpen the bits as I go with a drill dr.. I know you don't like them, but I got it down. It just takes some practice, like sharpening a good knife to slice like a razor. Sharp things are safer than dull things when it comes to bits and cutting tools. Bob's your auntie!
I had to use those nifty extractors once or twice, the first time was when I was replacing the spark plugs on my Chevy LT1 engine. The first 7 spark plugs all came out in one piece, it was the #8 cylinder that snapped because the rust had eaten through more that half the hex nut of the plug, thankfully all the center ceramic core was in one piece. I bought a set of German made extractors and it worked like a charm and had the threads out in a jiffy. This saved me a trip to the mechanic and then charging an hour for a 5 minute job.
I also like to use the welder to remove bearing races that are press fit, run a bead around the bearing face, let it cool and it shrinks the race enough to walk it out.
Left-handed extractors have become the bane of my existence. They always snap, usually nice and flush, and my welder has become my go-to extraction device.
With easy outs, the biggest trick is to first drill ALL THE WAY THROUGH the stud, then heat with a torch until above the recrystalization temperature of the material, thermal expansion embiggens the broken dohicky and since it can't swell out it swells IN into the hole you drilled in the middle. Let it cool, it shrinks a bit and comes right oot. Unless of course it's galled or crossthreaded then you're facked. Also usually doesn't work on stainless, recrystalization temp is to farken high.
I’ve put some of your tips and tricks into practice in my trade. Picked up some tap sockets aswell. I have saved my overzealous salesman’s ass on plumbing jobs more than once now.
I feel your pain. Had to do this a few weeks back with some broken off screws in a thermostat cover. After beating the piss out of a screw extractor and my knuckles from a dozen different angles because I had less than a blond one's width between it and the radiator and frame, tacking on a nut finally did the trick.
Awesome I used some badunk-a-dunk to reshield the vorto kramstine, but only, and this is very important, IF the comestein level is above, at, or below it's normal operating level. We will save the "Corppress Obligation Braunflatchal" discussion for another time
I watch your videos, I'm subscribed and I still don't get how you manage to talk so much shit mixed with what you're really saying and make it sound coherent. I love listening to you and I find it very entertaining.
Evidently not as heavy duty as your situation but I had a pretty terrible experience with a bottom bracket on a mountain bike installed incorrectly (no green loctite) and work itself off. When I went to clean the crank surfaces, the bottom bracket bearings came off with the crank, I thought I could clean the surfaces, add green loctite and press them back on… and the green loctite spread on to the aluminum Allen crank bolt, which obviously stripped when I went to replace the bottom bracket eventually- the problem is that crank bolts are LEFT THREADED, so a regular extractor made it tighter. I had to get a “wedge” type extractor, which I was only able to crank with a 18” adjustable while sitting on a bench with the opposite pedal wedged under the chair. It took so much force that the pedal was lifting me and the bench. It took me several multi hour efforts. A hard bolt to remove definitely develops character.
Many of us simpleton wrench fondlers with delusions of self-importance maintain a special place in our hearts and an equally special place in our jobboxes for what we call "the drawer of victory", snapped fasteners and the hard-earned techniques to remove them. 3" deep of 8mm thread, plugged off with a broken setscrew, firmly solidified in there by a clueless production tech that stuck a 2nd in after it and assisted the thread distortion with 14" of sch40 torque amplifier. Staring down the muzzle of that is the beginning of a tale that the bards would sing of for eons if there was justice in the factory.
I had a harmonic balancer bolt broke off in my crankshaft years ago. I started to drill a hole in it, and as soon as the drill bit into the broken bolt it just threaded it all the way in. Easiest removal I’ve ever had.
Nice to see AVE has to use Verbal Motivation of the R Rated Type. I thought that only worked in the US. Thought you had to break out the French version in Canada. Thanks for the videos.
I really have to learn weldin'. I've had crap like this happen in the past, and atm there's another project fix "on the bench" that would be made infinitely easier. PS: Great stuff like this is just one reason I like supporting you on Patreon.
pick you up a cheap hot snot gun fron horror freight,some scrap and giver til you get shit to stick. dont need to be pretty but itls save you alot of trouble and money
On a smaller scale, I kind of understand. I just stripped 2 bolts trying to reinstall the rear shock on my bike, not a lot of clearance, had to remove the whole swingarm to get the good ol' angle grinder to one of the locknuts that was free spinning (thought I had sheared the bolt, but nooo), the other one just got the nut breaker treatment. Now to wait for new hardware, which I probably should have checked before proceeding...
Another way of welding is weld a heavy washer to the broken bolt/stud first,then weld a nut to the washer.This allows for more weld to be done/ heat to penetrate.Learned this from an old timer ,and it works great if the broken part is not to the surface of the threaded hole.
Don't forget a little penetrating oil when first gathering tools. The kind that says "As seen on TV" is best, but some cost less and work for less rusty bolts like the one shown. There are angled drills and drill adapters for tight spots, BTW. They don't last a lot of hours, so should only be used when necessary. There used to be stick rod with shielding just for the application years ago, but forgot what it's called. Thanks for another bit of shop technology. Make sure to clean up excess oil with brake cleaner and dry before welding, unless you intend to build a fire, then a class B extinguisher nearby is recommended.
Besides left handed metal beavers, which are always fun, left handed lightbulbs are always fun to mix in with the rest. I believe they're also available in LED these days.
Welding on a bolt is the first thing I do. Even with molested bolt heads. It is the easiest, quickest and the most effective way to extract a broken bolts/studs. Same with removing stuck bearings.
Only started welding (Actually just sticking metal together at the moment.) last year. I always disconnect the battery but someone said I should disconnect the alternator. All comments welcome, rude, stupid, condescending or just plain helpful.
Had to use a combination of heat and the ol' impact driver on some stubborn slotted screws just yesterday. I was glad that the impact driver worked, 'cause things were about to get rowdy getting those things busted loose.
A good tip is to build up some weld on the broken bolt first. Create a small "spike" of weld on the broken bolt. Then push the nut on to the "spike" and weld the nut to the new "spike" of metal. Doing this, you will have a strong connection between the broken bolt and the nut.
![Fc ครับ ขอแนะนำให้รู้จักกับ "น้องเปียโน" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HQU6Q_IYTLo/mqdefault.jpg)
![ทัศนศึกษาโรงงานผลิตโค้ก [THAI/ENG SUB]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M9y-TJBNem0/mqdefault.jpg)
Why did TH-cam recommend this to my wife?
must have a problem with busted studs.
Usually I'd be happy to be next in line behind Uncle B to take a stab at a sloppy seconds joke when it comes to someone's missus...
However, I'm going to abort, and go with Plan B (*snort*): B serious!
I think YarTub's vijeo recommendation algorithm is knackered as of late. Because despite never watching a rap video on my account, the last month my Home Feed page has had roughly a dozen of them recommended to me every day. 🤷♂️
TH-cam, take note. This is how you make an amazing reply.
she attempted to watch it but in the end it was all for nuttin 😬😂
F
Playing in a machinery repair shop for the past decade, I've learned to just skip to welding the nut on. The only thing I do different is welding a washer to the stud first, then weld the nut on. In case your at an angle like you are in this video and you have a spot inside the nut you cannot fill with weld, it let's you weld the washer and nut together to substitute not getting a full weld on the inside, as well as providing a larger surface area to weld a larger nut on.
For smaller bolts I'm afraid I'm going to snap, I'm fond of turning a cutting torch down low and holding it far enough away that the bolt very slowly heats up until its cherry red, then dumping water on it to cool it off and shock it. They generally come without issue then. It works on broken ones as well, just weld a nut on after shocking them. Also, don't grind on the surface of a sheared bolt if you want to heat it with a torch, they become reflective and you have a far harder time getting them to heat up without overheating the surrounding area and preventing the temperature difference in the materials from working its magic.
I'm sorry for writing a novel, but I hope it helps somebody someday.
I think itll help someone on a very bad day
good on you for taking the time to spell it out. Those of us that have fought this particular battle recognize the good advice.
I've found starting a drill helps the weld heat up the threads quicker. The faster you can heat the bolt and what it's threaded into, the better.
In same same vein, using a stick welder, and some hot electrodes helps.
How do you prevent the weld from welding the broken bolt to the surrounding material??
@@danl.4743 if the bolt is broken below the surface of the material you mean? It's harder, and a good bit is experience but Tim Hunter is absolutely correct in saying a stick welder is helpful. You need to start a bead on the center of the bolt and build up a weld that covers a majority of it, I would say roughly 3/4 the diameter of the bolt is sufficient. Once you get that first weld down, chip the top of the weld and leave the slag in the hole. That's the key. The slag will build up as you repeat the welding and chipping process and will help prevent the weld from rolling into the wall of the hole you are working in. If you thinking the bolt or weld may be getting a bit too hot, stop the process for a while to allow it to cool. Also, stick provides more visibility into the hole by simply being small. It's absolutely the way to go. Once you have it built up and get your nut and washer welded on, make sure you leave it cool for 15 minutes or so, and go get a breaker bar to work it loose with. If you crank on the thing too hard or too soon you may very well twist your weld apart and start again. Use the breaker bar and work it back and forth. it won't move much at first, but it will eventually come.
The entire thing is slow and careful, but it's not as rough as it sounds. Just relax and go slow and steady. I wish I could show a picture of it on here, but I have a broken idler bolt from a D11 bulldozer I removed with this process in my toolbox. I stacked weld about 3.5 inches to get it built back up to where a nut could be welded on and removed. Definitely one of my most impressive pulls.
Every 5 minute repair is one broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal.
So true...I'm having flashbacks.
I have a policy now, if anyone ever dares to tell me, "It will only take you five minutes." I just punch them.
Dealing with this now. Oil pan on 96 f150. Figured it would take me a full day. Another day for the trans lines. Day 3 and jus got the pan out, havent even extracted the 2 broken exhaust manifold studs. Every single thing ive touched has been a horror show. Nothing has gone easy. The truck is in great shape, but underneath all the fasteners n everything is rusted. The joy of living in new england/boston where winter roads destroy our cars. Not even my car im working on.
Wiser words have never been spoken
Oh my God isn't that the truth.
Outstanding camera work, AvE. Especially when the Hilti was in Front of everything.
I was marveling at that as well
I have no idea how he was able to see with the hilt I in the way I know I sure couldn’t
If you got it flaunt it
Shameless plug
And for the smaller bolts, weld a washer on first so you can up size the nut. Easier and more material to weld the nut on.
Nice.
Thats one i never seen. Good idea
Yup. I don't bother trying any other method these days. No sense bothering with methods that *may* work versus a way you know *will* work..
The washer also lets the heat spread away flatter instead of out toward the nut so its less likely to break. I usually use vice grips to turn the washer instead of wasting time/ consumables adding a nut on top.
I've removed quite a few broken bolts via ez-outs /extractors, torches and the good ol' weld a nut to the damn thing and twist. Never tried a washer on the smaller PITA fasteners. I'll keep that in my trick bag for later use. Thanks Osseo.
Word to the wise. Learn from my genius.
Do not remove the welded on nut with your figures no matter how easy it spins right after you get your weld kit off.
Thankfully that's a lesson that usually only needs to be learned once.
If it sounds like frying bacon, you're doing it right.
If it smells like frying bacon....
We have an electrician at work that is like a moth to flame if there is something hot in the vice that he couldn't get apart. I warn him and he still does it after nearly 20 years of working together.
@@--_DJ_-- Electricians are masochists.. They prefer tactile trouble shooting.
Just look all the electro-torture stuff in S&M? coincidence? I think not!
I’ll admit, for me it always feels like a lesser known Christmas Miracle when welding a nut on to a broken stud works, and does not make the problem significantly worse. Like accidentally welding both the stud and the nut to the fixture the stud is stuck in.
99.9% of the time I just skip all the other steps and go straight to welding a nut on the snapped bolt. The other methods have cost me countless hours, and caused any nearby children to pick up a vile vernacular.
A late night surprise.... much appreciated. That hilti makes a better door than a window...
Hey, with the lefty drills, drill a pilot hole first at least bigger than the web so that with out all that feed pressure it will grab. The harder the bolt the bigger the pilot hole you'll need to get it to grab without a bunch of feed pressure. I start at about haft the drills size for a pilot in the 1/4 - 1/2 range of drills in grade 5 hardware and seems to work.
I wanted to say the same thing, but I realized that I would also go straight for the big bit, knowing full well that I should go gradual. It's just one of those time/patience management things... Especially when you already have alternative approaches lined up!
“It dosnt fit. Not much purchase. Little tapper.” Story of my life
Don’t fit cus they ain’t deez son.
At my shop we almost always just start with the welder if possible. Works the best in my opinion.
Using the method that works 100% of the time first is probably the best - unless it is unnecessarily destructive.
@@graealex no method works 100% of the time for removing a bolt if you're trying to save the threads. Sometimes they are cross threaded or seized to bad.
@@shanemayers777 Just saying directly jumping to the method with the best chances of working is a time saver.
Maybe it's survivor bias, and we're never thinking about the times when the left-handed drills extracted a bolt, but my gut feeling is that it never works right with them.
Yep
Exactly what I was thinking. A welded on nut makes this a fairly easy job
Took me back to a similar situation where I had the privilege to be a bystander. Old mate cursing the lack of room to get access to the broken off bolt, when up rolls the veteran fitter and turner.
The Veteran looked, wandered off, then came back with a right-angle drill, and a set of left hand STUBBY drill bits. Only time I've ever seen them.
About two months ago I was replacing the shears on a 4 ton rock crusher. They were held in with 4 large bolts per blade, which were countersunk as well as utilized Alan keys. The short version of that two days worth of begging, bargaining, and murderous rage was that the only way to extract those bolts was by welding nuts on each of them.
Wow that machine must be pretty big to be able to crush four ton rocks. If you're doing four at once, couldn't you just use a one ton rock crusher? Suppose it would take four times as long then.
Hot blue snot gun !
Alan key bolts are bad but i have dealt with torx head bolts used on a damn water pump. General motors thought this was a good idea on the Camaro and firebird motors back in the 90's...trust me it was not a good idea...
Trick to Allen/torx is to fill the head with some cheap epoxy when you install them. Then when you goto remove it, just heat the head up, and the epoxy comes out in one chunk. Then the head is clear and clean. No rust and dirt to gum up the key.
I imagine the size of those allens were massive! Not that it would have worked in your situation but using valve lapping compound (basically sandpaper paste) can make a huge difference when removing allen and torx fasteners. Mac tools also make what they call RBRT (Rounded Bolt Removal Technology) sockets in allen and torx which work wonders for removing stuck fasteners (may not be available in 4 ton rock crusher size 🤣) Good job with the nut I'm glad you got them out 👍
Awesome content! Had I seen this about 3 hours earlier, I would’ve saved myself from needing a new engine block!
Priceless as always, Tio AvE.
Lol for real? That sucks what happened?
Same there, had and idler pulley, few sparks, and more all snap.
Drill it and fit a helicoil, use coctite 741 primer and 680 retainer on the helicoil, it'll live longer than you'll have to worry bout it!
That sucks
A new block over a broken bolt/stud? Damn. How bad did you jack up removing it? Or did you not think removing it was possible? Even if you mess up removing it, theres always heli-coils or timecerts. 3 years isnt that long ago. Surprised you didnt google it before going for a new block.
I'm glad to see at 4.57, you got the welders technical terminology correct.
4:57 use a colon not a dot, for clicky link.
Back in the 90s I lived for several years with a girl who was an HT in the Navy. She looked like Farrah Fawcett and had a mouth like a truck driver. Now I see why.
That's pretty common technical language.
@@Dave001968 I don't think I'm going too far when I call you a hero.
@@Dave001968 I only just realised the blue time stamp is a clicky link. I don't watch TV. I youtube for hours every night. Have done for years. I just learnt something new.
you didn't even devolve into looking at prices to just replace the part before deciding "too rich for my blood", nor did you arrive at, "fuck it, it just lives there now". I'm proud of you.
There's a key thing to know when it comes to welding the nut. Leave a small gap between the nut and the piece with the broken bolt. If you position the nut up tight to the work piece the weld will shrink and likely crack. Often you can hear it when it does.
Makes so much sense. I will try that 👍
I've seen some people mend this issue by first welding a washer onto the broken bolt, then welding the nut to the washer.
BINGO! You get it exactly. It's a stress point. Any sudden change in size or sharp corner is a stress point. I weld some material on it first, just build it up, so it TAPERS up larger.
Then weld a nut, washer, whatever, on THAT if needed. But it wasn't necessary this time, and knowing this guy......some aiming assistance was a safe choice.
2:36 - Some 5 star camera work there. Super best.
The only reason that bolt came out was because of the well placed and appropriate timed F-bomb. My welding skills aren’t any better from watching your vijeos but my foul garage language has greatly improved, thanks!
I really appreciate the time it took to set up the light and camera for this, always love your videos!
And his humor which seemed to be understandably lacking in this video
Man, those last 30 seconds really show the depth of experience here. Such an easy & familiar action, even with those gloves on. Proof that practice makes perfect.
Always remove the grounded battery terminal first, that way if the wrench touches the chassis, you don't cause a short. Or in my uncle's case when your wedding ring gets caught between the wrench and the chassis, it doesn't turn red, with a distinct barbecue aroma.
Remember those metal springy watch bands? I did that very thing with my watch band back in the 70s. Still have scar on my wrist. Wife does not understand my aversion to all jewelry on my glorious body.
@@4sl648 Tell her, "I'm already good looking. I don't need decorating."
@@dfross87 i once was as good as i ever was
@@4sl648 happened to my brother working on a tractor. That watch band left a brand on his wrist.
Use black nuts if you got em or drill the centers to remove the zinc / passivation. Makes it so much easier to weld to the broken fastener and start the arc!
I like at 4:57 when the mechanic in you comes out! TALK to it, made me chuckle early in the morning. Been using that method for years. An even bigger surprise than when you whip out the left hand drill bits on a newbie. Thanks for the content.
You're a winner. I always go by a lottery ticket after a successful bolt extraction.
Lol. Was drilling a bolt the other day with some leftwing nutters. My 80 year old neighbor was diligently watching and without missing a beat, asked if the bit I was using was getting me anywhere. Now, being that he's a wise old guy, he uses his telescoping magnet to slide the object containing the rest of the bits closer for him to pick up. I knew what he was up to. He's ready to bust my stones, but before doing so... Experience pushed him to read that it was left handed. Silence ensued. In return, I busted his stones because I knew exactly what he was up to.
2:50 really, it needs to be said, you are a MASTER cinematographer!
I'm surprised John Deere let you work on your own equipment like that being all 'anti right to repair' and everything.
This is less “software update” and more “hardware update”
F Deere
Never know.. You didn't see him attempt to start it but it's certain to void that warranty!
last I checked they haven't found a way to lock specific fasteners to hardware ID yet, but don't you go giving them any ideas
What do you mean? Warranty was voided as soon as the angle grinder went near it ;)
These days being the impatient type I just head straight for the MIG in this kind of situation. I try and fill the nut in one go to get max heat into the bolt. Usually let it cool some too. Good work 😀
another one of those: "can you do me a quick favor"... that turns into a slugfest with at least 4.5 swear words per minute...
Okay lets understand I worked as a bona-fide truck coach mechanic 👍 but you sir have a great way of making just things well rather humorous so thankyou and someone else will learn 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍
Very interesting! Never seen anyone use the 'weld a nut to it' method before, Ill be using that one in the future!
A while ago, I was working on a refrigeration compressor, and there is an oil fitting that screws in at a weird angle, and its made of the finest chinesium, and wouldn't you know it, trying to remove it broke the dang thing off right at the surface. No problem, Its a tube, break out an extractor tap and twist it out. HA, broke that sucker off in the hole too. Real smooth move... Fortunately I was able to take the piece off and take it home, spent probably 3h trying to extract it. Used a torch, chisels, drills, and more to remove the chunk of hardened tap remover, then had to custom grind a cold punch into a sorta chisel shape to scrape the tube out until I could peel out section of it. Such a pain, but dang it was satisfying removing the last chunk of pipe from the threads. And in the end the threads were still good!
Asked this question many times no one had a answer disconnect battery when welding thank you sir 🙏🐺
That's the best method for stubborn sheared off bolts. Now maybe I am inspired enough to remove the one halting progress on my project...
It turned out easy at the end. I'm glad we got to see that part.
I’m glad you showed disconnected battery 👍
There's a seized, broken, bolt in my engine block that's caused me to not fix my car for a year now. You just inspired me to get it out.
Hey AvE - Adam Savage gave you a little shout out today! Awesome to see all these top tier folks who watch each other's content 😎
Very satisfying. I had to drill out a broken brass screw just yesterday. Barely made it out alive.
Absolutely agree the welder is always the most effective solution. Also when you've got a stuck bearing outer race, my favourite thing to do is to weld on the inside of it and then it just pops out like magic.
Yup, Toro greensmower cutting units have front & rear rollers, this usually the only way to remove the outer bearing races in the tubes.
I'm surprised how many people that I've dealt with in these situation don't know about left hand drill bits. I usually never feel confident it'll extract it but figure I'd be drilling a hole for a proper extractor any way but then lo and behold she'll back right out. Talk about a good feeling!
"Do not stare into the pretty blue light" 🤣 I hoped that meant new safety stickers and I wasn't disappointed! 😁
A lot of great advice here, and thanks for taking the time to film this. My only thought on it was, maybe put the pin in first before backing the broken stud out, that way the bolt doesn't bind on the way out.
Start with an 1/8” stubby bit for a pilot hole and not a 1/4 or 5/16 or whatever you tried to start drilling with.
Makita makes the smallest tight quarter right angle drill. The chuck is somewhat recessed. This has saved my bacon many a time in a tight spot. Same thing with stubby drill bits. That drill would make short work of that task. I can't believe I can help here, you are so brilliant. In our trade we do a lot of tight quarters drilling. It is a corded drill, so plenty of juice for hardened bolts. I always sharpen the bits as I go with a drill dr.. I know you don't like them, but I got it down. It just takes some practice, like sharpening a good knife to slice like a razor. Sharp things are safer than dull things when it comes to bits and cutting tools. Bob's your auntie!
Love your natural flow man, if witty comments come they come, if not, we learn something worst case scenario Haha keep it up! Keep it going
You my friend are a freaking legend.
Your dt's are worse than mine at a Monday morning pre start meeting. Love ya work!
I had to use those nifty extractors once or twice, the first time was when I was replacing the spark plugs on my Chevy LT1 engine. The first 7 spark plugs all came out in one piece, it was the #8 cylinder that snapped because the rust had eaten through more that half the hex nut of the plug, thankfully all the center ceramic core was in one piece. I bought a set of German made extractors and it worked like a charm and had the threads out in a jiffy. This saved me a trip to the mechanic and then charging an hour for a 5 minute job.
Not even my gear and it's still so satisfying to see that bolt spin out in one piece!
Love these videos. My three year old loves the “tappy, tap, tap” saying!
I also like to use the welder to remove bearing races that are press fit, run a bead around the bearing face, let it cool and it shrinks the race enough to walk it out.
Totally impressed you have that much room to work with
Left-handed extractors have become the bane of my existence. They always snap, usually nice and flush, and my welder has become my go-to extraction device.
I just love his humorous choice of words and how ess em art he is.
Thanks for the video. Hoping for more from you soon. Really enjoy your work. Thanks
With easy outs, the biggest trick is to first drill ALL THE WAY THROUGH the stud, then heat with a torch until above the recrystalization temperature of the material, thermal expansion embiggens the broken dohicky and since it can't swell out it swells IN into the hole you drilled in the middle. Let it cool, it shrinks a bit and comes right oot. Unless of course it's galled or crossthreaded then you're facked. Also usually doesn't work on stainless, recrystalization temp is to farken high.
I’ve put some of your tips and tricks into practice in my trade. Picked up some tap sockets aswell. I have saved my overzealous salesman’s ass on plumbing jobs more than once now.
" Do Not Stare Into The Pretty Blue Light ."
" That's What The Red Light District Is For "
I feel your pain. Had to do this a few weeks back with some broken off screws in a thermostat cover. After beating the piss out of a screw extractor and my knuckles from a dozen different angles because I had less than a blond one's width between it and the radiator and frame, tacking on a nut finally did the trick.
Awesome I used some badunk-a-dunk to reshield the vorto kramstine, but only, and this is very important, IF the comestein level is above, at, or below it's normal operating level. We will save the "Corppress Obligation Braunflatchal" discussion for another time
Another tip. If the bolt is too deep use a copper tube to protect the threads before welding.
I enjoy how quiet you got the set.
Nice bolt restoration. It'll come in handy in the future for sure
I watch your videos, I'm subscribed and I still don't get how you manage to talk so much shit mixed with what you're really saying and make it sound coherent. I love listening to you and I find it very entertaining.
Nicely done; the key is too keep moving forward, try every thing one can conceive and fight it out. C4 works in a pinch as well!
Evidently not as heavy duty as your situation but I had a pretty terrible experience with a bottom bracket on a mountain bike installed incorrectly (no green loctite) and work itself off.
When I went to clean the crank surfaces, the bottom bracket bearings came off with the crank, I thought I could clean the surfaces, add green loctite and press them back on… and the green loctite spread on to the aluminum Allen crank bolt, which obviously stripped when I went to replace the bottom bracket eventually- the problem is that crank bolts are LEFT THREADED, so a regular extractor made it tighter.
I had to get a “wedge” type extractor, which I was only able to crank with a 18” adjustable while sitting on a bench with the opposite pedal wedged under the chair.
It took so much force that the pedal was lifting me and the bench.
It took me several multi hour efforts.
A hard bolt to remove definitely develops character.
Many of us simpleton wrench fondlers with delusions of self-importance maintain a special place in our hearts and an equally special place in our jobboxes for what we call "the drawer of victory", snapped fasteners and the hard-earned techniques to remove them. 3" deep of 8mm thread, plugged off with a broken setscrew, firmly solidified in there by a clueless production tech that stuck a 2nd in after it and assisted the thread distortion with 14" of sch40 torque amplifier. Staring down the muzzle of that is the beginning of a tale that the bards would sing of for eons if there was justice in the factory.
I had a harmonic balancer bolt broke off in my crankshaft years ago. I started to drill a hole in it, and as soon as the drill bit into the broken bolt it just threaded it all the way in. Easiest removal I’ve ever had.
Came right out! Good living with a pure heart.
This is my go to bolt extraction method 😎
I just read about the battle of Long Tan. ANZAC forces in vietnam. Salute to all from 🇺🇸
But the blue light is so pretty, it makes me cry. 🤩😭
Nice to see AVE has to use Verbal Motivation of the R Rated Type. I thought that only worked in the US. Thought you had to break out the French version in Canada. Thanks for the videos.
I really have to learn weldin'. I've had crap like this happen in the past, and atm there's another project fix "on the bench" that would be made infinitely easier.
PS: Great stuff like this is just one reason I like supporting you on Patreon.
pick you up a cheap hot snot gun fron horror freight,some scrap and giver til you get shit to stick. dont need to be pretty but itls save you alot of trouble and money
On a smaller scale, I kind of understand. I just stripped 2 bolts trying to reinstall the rear shock on my bike, not a lot of clearance, had to remove the whole swingarm to get the good ol' angle grinder to one of the locknuts that was free spinning (thought I had sheared the bolt, but nooo), the other one just got the nut breaker treatment. Now to wait for new hardware, which I probably should have checked before proceeding...
Beautiful little tricks
Love watching an enginerd drilling . A good boy with a torch will remove bolt and leave the threads behind for the next guy !
This was an easy one. Try again with something seized or cross threaded. But it was still satisfying
Great camera work.
Another way of welding is weld a heavy washer to the broken bolt/stud first,then weld a nut to the washer.This allows for more weld to be done/ heat to penetrate.Learned this from an old timer ,and it works great if the broken part is not to the surface of the threaded hole.
Call me a sadist, but I’m only here to watch someone else suffer as much as I normally do. It warms my soul.
God bless hardened torx bits. Drill a hole, beat one in, and twist it off. If it slips, go one size up.
Saved my ass from broken bolts many times.
Ive used torx bits to get Allen head bolts with stripped heads out, very handy
Nicely done.
2:40 That subtle Brand PLACEMENT for Hilti😂
I was waiting for the ‘ you can’t stick if you’re molten ‘ moment.
Don't forget a little penetrating oil when first gathering tools. The kind that says "As seen on TV" is best, but some cost less and work for less rusty bolts like the one shown. There are angled drills and drill adapters for tight spots, BTW. They don't last a lot of hours, so should only be used when necessary. There used to be stick rod with shielding just for the application years ago, but forgot what it's called. Thanks for another bit of shop technology. Make sure to clean up excess oil with brake cleaner and dry before welding, unless you intend to build a fire, then a class B extinguisher nearby is recommended.
Besides left handed metal beavers, which are always fun, left handed lightbulbs are always fun to mix in with the rest. I believe they're also available in LED these days.
It's satisfying to watch the broken bolt coming out.
Got some proper old man grunting going on at 2:12 :applause:
2:15 Remember, if the drill doesn't fit you can always just use your mind powers to drive the bit.
Welding on a bolt is the first thing I do. Even with molested bolt heads.
It is the easiest, quickest and the most effective way to extract a broken bolts/studs. Same with removing stuck bearings.
The thing to remember when the odds are long, the task thankless and the work taxing...
...foist it onto the next shift. 🙂👍
If it ain't one thing, it's another... Especially when it's already somethin... Thanks for sharing!
Gotta love those drills from the southern hemisphere. They turn the same way as you flush the toilets!
Only started welding (Actually just sticking metal together at the moment.) last year.
I always disconnect the battery but someone said I should disconnect the alternator. All comments welcome, rude, stupid, condescending or just plain helpful.
That was actually brilliant.
Love it! Makes me want a welder!
Had to use a combination of heat and the ol' impact driver on some stubborn slotted screws just yesterday. I was glad that the impact driver worked, 'cause things were about to get rowdy getting those things busted loose.
A good tip is to build up some weld on the broken bolt first. Create a small "spike" of weld on the broken bolt. Then push the nut on to the "spike" and weld the nut to the new "spike" of metal. Doing this, you will have a strong connection between the broken bolt and the nut.
must be nice working on the new used equipperment!
95 F150, drivers side seat belt replacement. That bolt on the floor was so rusted! I don't want to talk about it any more!
Being a Land Rover man i feel your pain!.
The best bit is torquing on the rusty bolt and it stays in but the floor comes out🤬😆