Another idea I edited out of the video since it was too long: Some people are under the impression that submerging plants entirely in water, or other creative concoctions, will help hydrate the orchids. I believe there is enough evidence out there to disprove this belief, in the description you will find an article talking about stomatal regulation in drought conditions. So I would definitely research this more before believing this technique helps in any meaningful way, as it has a great risk of increasing the chance of crown, stem and pseudobulb rot. Also loss of water through transpiration is reduced in higher humidity conditions, as stated in the CAM article in the description, so increasing humidity around dehydrated plants can help. But relative humidity and total submerging plants in water have nothing to do with each other, as the physical processes implicated are very different. Thanks! :D
OKAY SO I am really excited because I actually have a great article for this: Arndt et al. 2015 - Apoplastic water fraction and rehydration techniques introduce significant errors in measurements of relative water content and osmotic potential in plant leaves I was looking into this for a study I was leading and needed to double check some methods. Essentially, yes, submerging plants in water results in large amounts of water entering the cell (i.e. hydration). We have known this for a very long time from plant science. For live plants, you usually submerge just the roots (bottom-up watering), but for cut leaves, we usually soak them in water for a few hours to make sure they are at maximum water content (i.e. fat and juicy and hydrated). You can dunk whole plants, but not really recommended unless you've got some sort of an emergency. Arndt et al. 2015 discusses how scientists need to be careful of how long we submerge their leaves and how we do it (just the petiole in water, the whole leaf in water, etc.), as the leaves will soak up so much water, you get over hydration and water filling the space between cells, which isn't a true representation of how much water a leaf can hold, and your leaf is also probably dead now even though it's green. You can think of it like this: If you pour too much water on the sidewalk, the concrete will take up some of the water very quickly, and most of the water will start to fill in the sidewalk cracks. If you look at the whole street from far away, you'd say, "Wow, the concrete holds a lot of water!" But if you look at the strip of sidewalk, most of it is in the cracks. Quick Edit: The purpose of this study was not for the whole-plant, but the fact that this works at the leaf level means it will work at the whole-plant level, since I'd argue that orchids are herbaceous and therefore mostly leaf. TL;DR soaking DOES hydrate plants (full or otherwise), but yes, you'll probably get some weird rotting because these are not aquatic plants. I would probably do it as a last resort (i.e. one pseudobulb left, no roots, no leaves, shriveled, but no other obvious signs of disease)
Hi, we didn't factor in cuticle thickness and stomatal density here, which many orchids and other drought tollerant plants have much differently than other plants ;) also, the way stomatas open and close is much different in these plants too, it happens at different times of the day and they perform differently under severe drought and dehydration conditions. For example a rose plant left on the table for 24 hours will look wilted and almost dead.. an orchid will look like nothing ever happened, due to its defensive mechanisms against water loss. Also what goes out, can also come in. If nothing goes out, nothing goes in either, no matter how much they are kept submerged. Whatever might come in might be as little as these plants lose, which is incredibly little. Hence my statement saying 'any meaningful way' , rather than 'no way at all' ☺️ great discussion!
@@MissOrchidGirl Ugh, I'm sorry this response is so long, but I love this topic! You make a great point about stomates and cuticles! One thing I want to point out is where the stomates and the cuticle actually are. The leaf stomata are located (usually) on the bottom of the leaf, while the waxy cuticle you're referring to is located throughout the leaf, but very very thick on top and very thing on the bottom. The case that you are making (stomates closed means no water in or out) is not necessarily true. For a plant submerged in water, stomates will close, but water will force itself in through the weakest part of the plant given enough time (i.e. the stomates). Partially, this is because the leaf fills with O2 very quickly, and since orchids are C3-CAM facultative, this means they do run the risk of photorespiration when they're in C3 mode. Also incomplete or delayed closing of the stomates can let excessive water in, and the thinner waxy cuticle on the underside of the leaves might not be enough for some orchids. It is good enough for the plant when it's in soil or some growth media, but if you submerge the entire plant, water will inevitably enter, as the entire plant is not lined in lipids, but my guess is it would probably take a bit of time (hours?). A very well-hydrated plant is likely to respond rapidly to being dunked, but a drought-stricken plant will keep its stomates open as long as possible in order to replenish itself, as well as the fact that the response time for the stomates will also likely have slowed. You're right though, submerging an orchid probably isn't worth the trouble because I'd guess you would have to leave it in there for hours hahaha. For us to get our leaves nice and plump for the science, the recommended time is 2 hours when cut, so I'd imagine it's much, much longer for an entire plant. Again, probably only useful if your orchid is on the brink of death :( Finally, on CAM, there are several many papers indicating that orchids are facultative-CAM plants, meaning they are not CAM all the time and are mostly C3. These studies came mostly from the horticultural science folks, and found that that A) orchids can be C3 or CAM in different parts of the plant at the same time (leaves vs. pseudobulbs; so cool!) and B) it takes a LOT of stress in order for them to change. Your outdoor climate in Cyprus is likely enough for sure to trigger the CAM switch, but average indoor homegrower conditions (let's say 60F, 40-50% humidity) would not be enough for CAM to kick in. Rodrigues et al. 2013: "Spatial patterns of photosynthesis in thin- and thick-leaved epiphytic orchids: unravelling C3-CAM plasticity in an organ-compartmented way" is a great study that talks about thin vs. thick-leaved orchids and how photosynthetic modes change! Aw man, I love plants, they're so great
I like the length of the videos. Sometimes I watch them back to back. Sometimes to learn how to care for my phals, sometimes just to look at your beautiful flowers. I watch other instructional videos but yours is the one I follow. Thank you so much.
I have to say i'm getting very impressed with the quality of your video's lately. Also love the way you link the research up on the subjects you're talking about.
My orchids are doing very well. Thanks to you. I’ve checked other channels but have found what you say to be absolutely true. It depends on environment. The other videos I watch have different environments than I do. Including you. Because of your knowledge I have been able to adapt to my environment and I have my first flower spike after 2 years of trial and error. Thank you so much for all of the research you do and pass on to us.
Thank you so much for this! I run a plant shelter in the Netherlands (funny to see a Dutch card in one of the orchids in the video) and we got orchids yesterday. They are in a bad condition. This video confirms what I thought was wrong with them. Now we can save them and find them a good new home. You are a very good teacher.
Yet again another informative video! Keep up the good work Daniela! And I am still waiting for that maxillaria video update 😅 only because I bought a maxillaria striata and she is recovering veeeery slowly and I don't know what to do with it. And how should I care for it. To me it's a bit misleading reading articles and have a conclusion regarding how I should take care of my plants. In the end I came to the conclusion that your channel is the best for me so far! Thank you again for awesome video!
Thanks to your videos, I've finally got a phalaenopsis to produce a flower spike. I think anyways. I've had 4 die but I think it's because I didnt know how to properly take care of them before. Now I also have a dancing lady oncidium and that's been easier to take care of than the phalaenopsis! Thank you for the education!
I purchased 3 orchids that had blooms but were pretty dehydrated...cheap. I am confused because the flowers are still so beautiful but the leaves are still pretty "bendy" after 3 weeks of care. I see plenty of green roots and some dead. I'm reluctant to repot because of the flowers and green roots. Should I just leave them alone? Pots only have bottom holes.
Hi Danny. Thank you for the video. Does it mean that you do not cut yellow leaves on orchids but wait until the plant drops them itself? Also please update on your Ceratostylis rubra. Specialised video on this variety will be even better :) I still not sure what media to use for it and how much watering it requires. Thank you :)
Hi, yes that is correct, I never cut the leaves if there is no threat to the orchid. When they fall they detach in a very clean manner and there's no need to seal the breaking point. When my rubra will bloom I'll talk more about it 😁❤️
I'm having such a hard time with my Lady Slipper. I think it's the medium. I've been watering with dehumidifeied water. Once I just used tap. It looks like its leaves are drying up. Think I'll repot in a more soil based,less lecca medium. Wish me luck!
I killed two of my slippers , the one I have left was doing what you described. I started leaving a dish of water under the pot, and too dressed with spaghnum moss. It started looking better and better and now it looks great. Mine wanted more moisture.
Hi, the temperature drop provided in autumn for Phals isn't stress.. they only drop to 17-18C, that's a very pleasant temperature :) it's just an emulation of what their ancestors experienced in their habitat. There's no winter there, but there is a slight temperature fluctuation :)
@@MissOrchidGirl interesting, I always thought the concept of bloom/keiki is for the propagation of the plant itself, so if the plant under stress, it will tend to produce offspring/copy of itself as survival mechanism
No that is a bit of an over statement. Keiki formation is caused by a certain hormonal balance at a growth point. This happens sometimes under a certain type of stress (crown loss for example). In dehydration cases the last thing a Phalaenopsis 'thinks' about is putting the little energy it has into a keiki that will take a long time to become 'independent'. Again, it's about growth hormone triggering. Keikis can form on perfectly healthy and thriving plants too, the equestris will pass down sometimes this tendency it naturally has to its hybrids. Also apical dominance is a subject worth reading, as it explains why crown loss sometimes triggers keikis plantphys.info/apical/apical.html spike keiki formation is actually dependent on temperature, or general seasonas, as my keiki paste experiment suggested. I got secondary spikes instead of keikis, but I applied the paste in autumn. If I apply it in spring or summer, things might be very different. So in reality things are quite more complicated than it may seem ☺️ bloom formation is also triggered by hormone ballance, but it's not dependent on stress, but external factors. Not every flower in the field means a stressed plant. Phals can bloom if stressed, or healthy, especially the hybrids which can be very unnaturally behaving plants. I prefer to stay away from making a connection between stress and flowering, cos I showed many orchids contradicting that, in this video for example. Which Phal is growing a spike now? The sickest?
What about SPRAYING/MISTING the air roots of Phals or Dendrobiums, when you feel the media is still not ready to be watered, but the air roots look very dry, the tips are not growing, and the roots in the media are poor?
What condition would you be if you were immediately an orchid? Your like is your status : 1 : Happy 2 : Dry 3 : Sad 4 : Limp 5 : Dead 6 : Dormant 7 : Blooming 8 : Tired 9 : Energized 0 : Overwatered
Hi, blogs aren't very popular these days and I am personally not attracted to writing, but to speaking, filming and video editing. Luckily for me I get hundred of thousands of visitors per month, so it works out great 😁
Another idea I edited out of the video since it was too long: Some people are under the impression that submerging plants entirely in water, or other creative concoctions, will help hydrate the orchids. I believe there is enough evidence out there to disprove this belief, in the description you will find an article talking about stomatal regulation in drought conditions. So I would definitely research this more before believing this technique helps in any meaningful way, as it has a great risk of increasing the chance of crown, stem and pseudobulb rot. Also loss of water through transpiration is reduced in higher humidity conditions, as stated in the CAM article in the description, so increasing humidity around dehydrated plants can help. But relative humidity and total submerging plants in water have nothing to do with each other, as the physical processes implicated are very different. Thanks! :D
OKAY SO I am really excited because I actually have a great article for this: Arndt et al. 2015 - Apoplastic water fraction and rehydration techniques introduce significant errors in measurements of relative water content and osmotic potential in plant leaves
I was looking into this for a study I was leading and needed to double check some methods. Essentially, yes, submerging plants in water results in large amounts of water entering the cell (i.e. hydration). We have known this for a very long time from plant science. For live plants, you usually submerge just the roots (bottom-up watering), but for cut leaves, we usually soak them in water for a few hours to make sure they are at maximum water content (i.e. fat and juicy and hydrated). You can dunk whole plants, but not really recommended unless you've got some sort of an emergency.
Arndt et al. 2015 discusses how scientists need to be careful of how long we submerge their leaves and how we do it (just the petiole in water, the whole leaf in water, etc.), as the leaves will soak up so much water, you get over hydration and water filling the space between cells, which isn't a true representation of how much water a leaf can hold, and your leaf is also probably dead now even though it's green. You can think of it like this: If you pour too much water on the sidewalk, the concrete will take up some of the water very quickly, and most of the water will start to fill in the sidewalk cracks. If you look at the whole street from far away, you'd say, "Wow, the concrete holds a lot of water!" But if you look at the strip of sidewalk, most of it is in the cracks.
Quick Edit: The purpose of this study was not for the whole-plant, but the fact that this works at the leaf level means it will work at the whole-plant level, since I'd argue that orchids are herbaceous and therefore mostly leaf.
TL;DR soaking DOES hydrate plants (full or otherwise), but yes, you'll probably get some weird rotting because these are not aquatic plants. I would probably do it as a last resort (i.e. one pseudobulb left, no roots, no leaves, shriveled, but no other obvious signs of disease)
Hi, we didn't factor in cuticle thickness and stomatal density here, which many orchids and other drought tollerant plants have much differently than other plants ;) also, the way stomatas open and close is much different in these plants too, it happens at different times of the day and they perform differently under severe drought and dehydration conditions. For example a rose plant left on the table for 24 hours will look wilted and almost dead.. an orchid will look like nothing ever happened, due to its defensive mechanisms against water loss. Also what goes out, can also come in. If nothing goes out, nothing goes in either, no matter how much they are kept submerged. Whatever might come in might be as little as these plants lose, which is incredibly little. Hence my statement saying 'any meaningful way' , rather than 'no way at all' ☺️ great discussion!
@@MissOrchidGirl Ugh, I'm sorry this response is so long, but I love this topic!
You make a great point about stomates and cuticles! One thing I want to point out is where the stomates and the cuticle actually are. The leaf stomata are located (usually) on the bottom of the leaf, while the waxy cuticle you're referring to is located throughout the leaf, but very very thick on top and very thing on the bottom.
The case that you are making (stomates closed means no water in or out) is not necessarily true. For a plant submerged in water, stomates will close, but water will force itself in through the weakest part of the plant given enough time (i.e. the stomates). Partially, this is because the leaf fills with O2 very quickly, and since orchids are C3-CAM facultative, this means they do run the risk of photorespiration when they're in C3 mode. Also incomplete or delayed closing of the stomates can let excessive water in, and the thinner waxy cuticle on the underside of the leaves might not be enough for some orchids. It is good enough for the plant when it's in soil or some growth media, but if you submerge the entire plant, water will inevitably enter, as the entire plant is not lined in lipids, but my guess is it would probably take a bit of time (hours?). A very well-hydrated plant is likely to respond rapidly to being dunked, but a drought-stricken plant will keep its stomates open as long as possible in order to replenish itself, as well as the fact that the response time for the stomates will also likely have slowed.
You're right though, submerging an orchid probably isn't worth the trouble because I'd guess you would have to leave it in there for hours hahaha. For us to get our leaves nice and plump for the science, the recommended time is 2 hours when cut, so I'd imagine it's much, much longer for an entire plant. Again, probably only useful if your orchid is on the brink of death :(
Finally, on CAM, there are several many papers indicating that orchids are facultative-CAM plants, meaning they are not CAM all the time and are mostly C3. These studies came mostly from the horticultural science folks, and found that that A) orchids can be C3 or CAM in different parts of the plant at the same time (leaves vs. pseudobulbs; so cool!) and B) it takes a LOT of stress in order for them to change. Your outdoor climate in Cyprus is likely enough for sure to trigger the CAM switch, but average indoor homegrower conditions (let's say 60F, 40-50% humidity) would not be enough for CAM to kick in.
Rodrigues et al. 2013: "Spatial patterns of photosynthesis in thin- and thick-leaved epiphytic orchids: unravelling C3-CAM plasticity in an organ-compartmented way" is a great study that talks about thin vs. thick-leaved orchids and how photosynthetic modes change!
Aw man, I love plants, they're so great
I like the length of the videos. Sometimes I watch them back to back. Sometimes to learn how to care for my phals, sometimes just to look at your beautiful flowers. I watch other instructional videos but yours is the one I follow. Thank you so much.
@@ericyee3176 ,
I have to say i'm getting very impressed with the quality of your video's lately. Also love the way you link the research up on the subjects you're talking about.
please do continue these seminars cause I'm learning a lot about orchids.
My orchids are doing very well. Thanks to you. I’ve checked other channels but have found what you say to be absolutely true. It depends on environment. The other videos I watch have different environments than I do. Including you. Because of your knowledge I have been able to adapt to my environment and I have my first flower spike after 2 years of trial and error. Thank you so much for all of the research you do and pass on to us.
❤️
❤️
Thank you so much for this!
I run a plant shelter in the Netherlands (funny to see a Dutch card in one of the orchids in the video) and we got orchids yesterday. They are in a bad condition. This video confirms what I thought was wrong with them. Now we can save them and find them a good new home.
You are a very good teacher.
Thank you for the effort you put in to this video. As a beginner I have found you to be an excellent resource.
Excellent college introductory botany level lecture on general orchid physiology with somewhat specific water factor usage and needs.
Enjoyed your seminar #2 this morning with my coffee. Thanks for sharing your information with us. Looking forward to your next video.
I love you 💝you will make us experts!!!😋☺️
Yet again another informative video! Keep up the good work Daniela! And I am still waiting for that maxillaria video update 😅 only because I bought a maxillaria striata and she is recovering veeeery slowly and I don't know what to do with it. And how should I care for it. To me it's a bit misleading reading articles and have a conclusion regarding how I should take care of my plants. In the end I came to the conclusion that your channel is the best for me so far! Thank you again for awesome video!
Great video! Appreciate the honesty!
Thanks to your videos, I've finally got a phalaenopsis to produce a flower spike. I think anyways. I've had 4 die but I think it's because I didnt know how to properly take care of them before. Now I also have a dancing lady oncidium and that's been easier to take care of than the phalaenopsis! Thank you for the education!
Same here..never killed my oncidiums .killed a few phals
I noticed that most of the orchids that I lost had been overwatered, I rarely lost an orchid because I forgot to water once.
Ummm do you read my mind? 😂 literally whenever I question myself u post a video of what I was thinking about
Fantastic explanation. Well done!!
I purchased 3 orchids that had blooms but were pretty dehydrated...cheap. I am confused because the flowers are still so beautiful but the leaves are still pretty "bendy" after 3 weeks of care. I see plenty of green roots and some dead. I'm reluctant to repot because of the flowers and green roots. Should I just leave them alone? Pots only have bottom holes.
Thanks for the info, Danny!
Love your videos! always very informative
Very very interesting but not simply to understand when to water... Thank you
Is there ever a time when you give your orchids a rest of watering say from November to february or should I say very limted watering
Thank you for your videos.I really love them.♥️
Love this type of video ❤️❤️❤️
Hi Danny. Thank you for the video. Does it mean that you do not cut yellow leaves on orchids but wait until the plant drops them itself? Also please update on your Ceratostylis rubra. Specialised video on this variety will be even better :) I still not sure what media to use for it and how much watering it requires. Thank you :)
Hi, yes that is correct, I never cut the leaves if there is no threat to the orchid. When they fall they detach in a very clean manner and there's no need to seal the breaking point. When my rubra will bloom I'll talk more about it 😁❤️
Another seminar. Yeeeaaahhhhh!!!
I was just going to search your channel for this topic.
I'm having such a hard time with my Lady Slipper. I think it's the medium. I've been watering with dehumidifeied water. Once I just used tap. It looks like its leaves are drying up. Think I'll repot in a more soil based,less lecca medium. Wish me luck!
I killed two of my slippers , the one I have left was doing what you described. I started leaving a dish of water under the pot, and too dressed with spaghnum moss. It started looking better and better and now it looks great. Mine wanted more moisture.
Great video 🧡💜💚
I appreciate all your videos. I do have a request can do video on how to grow trichoglottis brachiata.
I love this video, Danny! So interesting. I love the detail and information. 😊
does stress (such as temperature fluctuations) induce the orchid to produce flower spike?
Hi, the temperature drop provided in autumn for Phals isn't stress.. they only drop to 17-18C, that's a very pleasant temperature :) it's just an emulation of what their ancestors experienced in their habitat. There's no winter there, but there is a slight temperature fluctuation :)
@@MissOrchidGirl interesting, I always thought the concept of bloom/keiki is for the propagation of the plant itself, so if the plant under stress, it will tend to produce offspring/copy of itself as survival mechanism
No that is a bit of an over statement. Keiki formation is caused by a certain hormonal balance at a growth point. This happens sometimes under a certain type of stress (crown loss for example). In dehydration cases the last thing a Phalaenopsis 'thinks' about is putting the little energy it has into a keiki that will take a long time to become 'independent'. Again, it's about growth hormone triggering. Keikis can form on perfectly healthy and thriving plants too, the equestris will pass down sometimes this tendency it naturally has to its hybrids. Also apical dominance is a subject worth reading, as it explains why crown loss sometimes triggers keikis plantphys.info/apical/apical.html spike keiki formation is actually dependent on temperature, or general seasonas, as my keiki paste experiment suggested. I got secondary spikes instead of keikis, but I applied the paste in autumn. If I apply it in spring or summer, things might be very different. So in reality things are quite more complicated than it may seem ☺️ bloom formation is also triggered by hormone ballance, but it's not dependent on stress, but external factors. Not every flower in the field means a stressed plant. Phals can bloom if stressed, or healthy, especially the hybrids which can be very unnaturally behaving plants. I prefer to stay away from making a connection between stress and flowering, cos I showed many orchids contradicting that, in this video for example. Which Phal is growing a spike now? The sickest?
@@MissOrchidGirl very informative thank you! 😊👍
What about SPRAYING/MISTING the air roots of Phals or Dendrobiums, when you feel the media is still not ready to be watered, but the air roots look very dry, the tips are not growing, and the roots in the media are poor?
Hi, yes that's totally fine :)
So when the leaves are wrinkled can’t that mean to much water?? Then necessary to repot?
can you put pet moss wet on the bottom of the pot to
Is it normal for phalaenopsis orchid roots to die off and regenerate?
Nice video 👍👏
Big like 😊 😊
What is the name of that Oncidium with red flowers in 21:5?
Orichid beautiful verry good
Very nic video and plant
What is the name of first orchid?
In the past, you’ve mentioned putting dehydrated orchids on a rehydrating schedule. Can you please further explain this ‘rehydration schedule’?
Hi, I don't recall ever saying that, but if I said something similar, I meant making sure they don't dry out too much at the beginning :)
I understand the feelings behind the stupid experiment. Orchid abuse is real!
What condition would you be if you were immediately an orchid? Your like is your status :
1 : Happy
2 : Dry
3 : Sad
4 : Limp
5 : Dead
6 : Dormant
7 : Blooming
8 : Tired
9 : Energized
0 : Overwatered
I love all your videos, and i'm thinking that you can open a blog, but it may be very stressful for you.
Hi, blogs aren't very popular these days and I am personally not attracted to writing, but to speaking, filming and video editing. Luckily for me I get hundred of thousands of visitors per month, so it works out great 😁
keep going girl,u k 75 year old u k newbee, bless.
I would love to enter the international giveaway-I live in the US love your very helpful videos. Dot Oberding
Hi, I think you wanted to comment on the giveaway video, make sure you leave a comment there too! ☺️
What is a Cakee
Check out her videos on "keiki". Its the hawaiian word for baby/child or in orchids when the plant is asexually reproducing another baby orchid.
MOG: "... excuse my language..."
Me: "ooooh..."
MOG: "...dumbest..."
Me: 😅
You are so sweet.
Nhìn có vẻ giống hoa vũ nữ phải không chị
Your bellina make my nerve wreck to throw huge money in buying big bellina with bloom or spike