Canon RF 200-800 REVIEW: The ULTIMATE “Budget” Wildlife SUPER ZOOM Lens?!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2024
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This is a Real World Review of the Canon RF 200-800mm SUPER ZOOM Lens. If you're a wildlife / nature photographer who's not going to drop 16k on a Canon RF 400 2.8 or 600 f4, this lens is for you. Yes it has a variable aperture, but NO OTHER Lens goes to 800mm like this one. This will be perfect for bird and nature photographers as well as people who are going on safari.
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Canon R3, Canon R1, Canon R7, Canon R8, bird photography
#FroKnowsPhoto #JaredPolin #REVIEW
I didn't like Polin the first few times I watched his videos, but he's won me over through the years. Besides being a good resource for photographers, his channel is a good example of how good TH-cam can be when it's done properly.
Thank you
True, my first impression is he's not serious. Then I realized he's actually very serious which makes his content much more professional than most reviewers out there.
Things that I like about Jared is that he gives irl reviews, some reviewers just show charts etc and those doesn’t always tell the real story . Some people think a lens is useless just because it has little worse test chart then the other although irl difference is more or less not noticeable
Yes my dogs and cats hide the first and last moments of his greetings….
yeah he is very consistent
I liked the flamingos with the water background, beautiful effect!
Hey Jared! Long time fan, first time commenting. Thanks for all the great videos! Happy New Year 🐉🎉
what a crazy username
Personally prefer the Sony or Nikon solution of using a 1.4x TC on the 200/180-600 when you really need that range. Otherwise you have a brighter lens when you dont need the insane range. Additionally, internal zoom is ideal for unpredictable or fast moving subjects
I'm yet to see an instance where you wouldn't actually be better off cropping than using the converter.
This video dropped while we were at Allen's Camera picking up our 200-800!! Fro realz!! It was ment to be!
Nice review!, and love the Fridge reference!
Been eyeing this hard. I think this is going to be my big purchase this year. I'm a birding newbie shooting on an R8.
Jared, you always have the best turtorials and reviews, I always tune in to learn something new......great info and content. Thanks!
This lens, and my R7 will be perfect for shooting the Blue Angels’ practices this season once they get back to Pensacola. From the vantage point at Fort Pickens across the bay from the Naval Air Station… I can’t wait! Thanks for the review I’ve been waiting for Jared!
Jared is my photo mentor. Ty for your videos
Liking the 'Stabilization ON/OFF' 1 option switch + clever IS
We were watching Jared with EF and FX lenses. We're still watching him with RF and Z. But the 'horizontical' never changed.. 😂
Amazing video as always..
Love the podcast raw talk is the best, great discussions, always enjoy hearing your opinions
14:25 - wow! that flamingo shot is pure gold.
Thanks for the review. I would love to use this lens down here for birding and sailing photos, as I travel through the Islands of The Bahamas 🇧🇸
The reason I will start to move to Canon mirrorless and the RF mount.. Put that 200-800 on the R7 and it's insane focal length.
Gotta be pretty good during the day, maybe not so much towards the evening.
Yeah, even though the light gathering ability is compromised having a nearly 1300mm equivalent field of view is crazy.
I find it difficult enough to track BIF at 850mm. Can’t imagine how difficult it will be at 1300mm.
@@imjooboy This 100% (500mm for me!)
@@user-oo7dw4qw4bnot that, the iso performance of my R7 is crazy, i shoot my brother soccer mathes, morning, noon, evening and night, the only thing i noticed is the AF struggling in low light
Hi Jared. As a Nikon shooter, just curious to know if this Canon lens is as sharp as the Nikkor Z 180-600 f/5.6-6.3, since you reviewed both. Also, I find that if I want 900mm with the 180-600, I can always shoot in DX mode, with negligible loss in image quality. Thanks!
This thing is insane! Crazy, crazy beast
I had this lens on pre order at first. But later on realised 100-500 is the one for me since that 100-200 is so versatile. Also for me in Finland the 200-800 would cost about 2700 euros while i got the 100-500 with winter cashback for 2500. Wish we had same pricing here as you guys in NA
It is as sharp as the 100-500. Great lens at great price. I can handhold with not much issues. When I put it on monopod, I balance it so that it doesn’t flop between 500-800 mm which is the zoom range I normally shoot at. It is not for BIF during low light, but fine with static subject. For fast action in low light, you need to pull the big gun like the 600 f4. I prefer to use it on the R5 which has better noise performance.
I have been using the RF 100-500 for surf video and photography. Will the RF 100-500 with a 1.4 or 2x extender perform on par or better than the RF 200-800 at the same focal lengths?
It makes absolute sense that the tripod mount collar is not made removable. Otherwise there will always be the bright mind who will remove it to save weight and then mount the tripod/monopod by the screw at the camera base. The RF bayonet is made to hold 2 kg lenses but the thread at the camera base will easily break under the combined weight of the camera and the lens, especially as the center of gravity is so displaced to the front and creates a leverage.
I would really like a side-by-side comparison of with the 100-500. Is 200-800 better than the 100-400 as far as image quality? Did you shoot this on the R3 or the 5? Thanks!! I still have the original R. I like the 30mp but am disappointed with other things. Apparently "we've" hit "our" 10 year anniversary. My son has informed me. "Mom, are you still watching him? ... "
So you have to turn the zoom wheel? Is it not possible to just pull the zoom like at the EF 100-400 II? Isn't that the idea if you completely untighten the tighten ring? Pulling a zoom is so much more confortable.
This is a great birding lens with an R10, r8, r7. This is a great scouting when going to a new location, before pulling out the big white glass. I also assume you can travel father with this over an F4. The 100 to 400 is probably the best hiking lens.
Thanks for the review! It's lighter than my EF 300 F2.8 (v1) lens that weighs about 6.3 lbs. I just tried it on my new R8 and the weight distribution could be better, especially when I put the 2x convertor on. The RF 200-800 might be a better choice and I'm probably going to buy it.
Hey Jared, is that the same white paint on the white R50 that's itself slightly different from the white paint on the L zoom lenses?
Canon did a great job with the price here. I love my Sony 200-600 and the absence of a similar lens is what kept me on the sony platform. This will he a big hit for bird photographers
So often I go to wetland areas and the birds are on the other side to me which is inaccessible. This lens will give me the detailed shots I am looking for. Thanks for the review.
Thanks for this review Jared! With my R7 I used to use my Sigma 150-600 Contemporary but I often lacked 100 to 200mm to take the portrait of Goldfinch or other small birds! So I bought this RF200-800! I'm super satisfied with it! It must be said that I film at 60 to 70% and in video the quality gap between the Sigma and the RF200-800 is enormous! And above all, the RF200-800 is completely silent on video! When I use my floating blind I will be able to stay 5 meters from the birds and take close-ups the further I am from them the more it suits me (so as not to disturb them)
Is the buffer really too small? A lot of people hate on it.
@@Universal_Craftsman the buffer could be better the rolling shutter could be better but for the price it's a great aps-c
17:41 that's the Burncat playground? (or however it was spelt) use to be a legit skate spot in Philly back in the early 2000s.., small place but alot of good bench lines were shot there., ground was crappy.., then they redid the whole park and it wasn't the same
The extreme zoom throw of this lens is similar to that on my Nikon 200-500, and is the main criticism many have of Nikon's lens. I "solved" my long throw problem by adding a inexpensive, easily attached/removed video focus throw lever on the zoom lever. Since I almost always use the lens on a tripod, this simple little gadget works well for me. Sorry, I can't give more details, as it is against TH-cam rules, but I think most people are bright enough to find one online.
As an enthusiast canon shooter with a r6ii, a 24-105 f4 and 70-200 f4, this 200-800 is right in my wheel house of skill and affordability.
Interested to see how it fares in the future, and very interested to potentially get one of my own.
Great video Jared.
I really wish they brought out this lens a lot sooner. I definitely would have gotten this instead of the 800 and later the 100-500.
I had a feeling, that either a 150-600 or 200-600 might come out so I got the RF100-400 as a gap lens
I have a 70-200mm and regret getting the 100-500mm now that this thing came out 🤦🏾♂
Hey , great videos . Is it a good idea to buy this lens for my eosr10 for wildlife photography? I currently own a canonrf 600 mm f11. Please suggest
I'm in the exact same situation haha. I bought a honda navi motorcycle for 2.5k in the fall of 2022 and I might swap it for this lol
Jared on the Canon R5 when you're using the expanding flexible spot (one center square surrounded by four smaller squares) are you using animal eye-AF with the same button or is the flexible spot just to acquire close focus and then a separate button for wide-AF/animal eye-AF? I think I tried to use animal eye-AF in a zone before and was unable to find a way to do so, I could only get eye-AF to work in wide (full coverage).
HI there -I hope my comment helps-
South African here who goes to bush often (what you call safari) and shoots a lot of wildlife in challenging conditions where the animals and background often blend.
(Kalahari/Kgalagadi) ...
If you use the wide selection (we call it Bird catcher in our house) it will often look for eye and we use it against bland backgrounds with good contrast.
However, what some of the safari photo guides and wildlife photographers do,
is set a custom menu/mode.
I have C2 set up on my R5 with everything the same, except BBF/AF button on the selection, be it single dot or zone and then I assign the * button to EYE /AF . (video link attached at bottom)
So, I use the zone to get the animal and then the eye/Af to get it perfect... and I can easily switch between the 2 depending on how the camera is behaving with the subject
reason for this is mainly Leopards and Cheetahs. LOL, if the eye is closed there are heck of a lot of dots to choose from ...especially on a Wildebeest, it often struggles to find the dark eye on dark skin... on a jackal it often grabs the back.
I missed a leopard kill with my fancy new R5 cos I was on Eye/AF and it grabbed a twig. The guy next to me with a 2nd hand 1DX mk1 nailed it cos he was on single dot...
My wife and i also limited the number of AF setting to single dot, wide zone and Eye/AF to allow us to scroll between modes faster..
Essentially , we realised after many mistakes when to use which mode...and are still learning each time, luckily we do it together ( though financially this is less ideal🤣) .
what we eventually started to realise is that the processor in the camera is NOT a supercomputer and cannot do everything we would like it to.
it all looks amazing in the promo videos and TH-cam channels ... Old fashioned skills and habits cannot be left at home.
I attach a link where a guy does it.
th-cam.com/video/sqLQ-TzwCis/w-d-xo.html
for Canon setups and Bird photography, follow Jan Wegener and Simon d'Entremont as well as Pangolin Wildlife Photography ...These 3 channels are very helpful..
Im thinking about this lens, but first have to cash in my Sigma 300/2.8 and Tamron G2 150-600. Time will show if I is able to do it before I get to old. Im already an oldtimer. ;-)
I’ve seen a lot of 200-800mm videos and none have mentioned it’s use for outdoor sports. At least one con came out in this video with the high aperture and background noise. Guessing 100-500 would be better to go in this case (youth soccer)?
Currently use 70-200mm 2.8, but son is going to larger pitch soon so been looking at longer zoom range lenses.
Question? You said picture quality is better by cropping than tel converter but what about in body cropping 1.6x on R6 and R5 would make any difference in body versus LR cropping? Thanks
Not really. I sometimes use 1.6x crop on the R6II, and the quality is pretty much the same as when I crop the image in LR to the same size. BUT (and this is the crucial thing), when you crop 1,6x in the R6II body there is NO room to crop in post (probably with the R5 it would have slight room for this due to higher mpx). So you don't have any space to adjust the framing. So I rather shoot normal, and if needed I crop that much, but I feel more secure to have the option to adjust the composition. About teleconverters - from my perspective, it is not true, that you get the same results by just cropping in post without TC, because when using a tTC you can still crop this image in post. So in the end you get the bigger size of the subject.
@@WarszawskiProforma thx for the reply! I’m buying the 200-800 lenses and I’m using R6 I and I’ve seen people with the lenses using a tel converter and saying the image quality it’s outstanding but at the same time using mine 100-400 II in body crop I haven’t noticed image quality degradation so I’m trying to figure out what would make more sense in case I’m on situation that requires more reach!
I have both a Sony A74and a Canon R6M2, I'm thinking if I should buy the Canon 200-800 lens or maybe the Sony 200-600 and also buy a Konvortok 1.4, which is better..? For the best possible image quality
What are you typically shooting with these super tele?
I use my 200-600mm a lot at F8, when I add a 1.4x converter it becomes 840mm F9 but I stop down to F11. I'm using the same apatures as this Canon lens without problem. Opening up to F6.3 is such a marginal benefit in low light I prefer be at F8 for increased sharpness, I only use F6.3 if I want the background slightly smoother.
That's not how the loss of "stops" work. With a 1.4x (so sqrt(2) times) teleconverter you lose a whole stop, so you get F/(8xsqrt(2)) which is roughly F/11. Stopping down one F-stop then gives you F/16.
@@LE-ht7pz When I add a teleconverter my 200-600mm goes from F6.3 to F9. My lens isn't F8, I just shoot at that because it's slightly sharper. Some people say 'stop up' for shutting the aperture but I say 'stop down', I don't mean a full stop.
@@KurtisPape Ah, sry! Sounded like you we're talking about a 600mm F/8 at the long end. :) Should have read to the end.
I recently added an R6 Mk II to my gear, and picked up the 800mm f/11. That was a good way to get that extra reach for a reasonable cost. Even after it for a short time, I've gotten nice results with it, particularly shooting the full moon a couple of weeks ago. However, I've decided that I do want a bit more versatility in a super-zoom, so I'm going to be trading the 800 in to get the 200-800. Thanks for posting!
Interesting, saw your mention of the 100-500 and how you were better to crop than to use them with TC.
I did my own testing and had the same conslusion, but when I posted it everyone just assumed I was wrong and had some flaw in my testing.
And that was straight up IQ, not even taking into account the shutter speed loss, flexability, cost, and easy of packing.
I can't wait to compare it to my 600mm F11.
After being a loyal watcher for 14 years I am completely convinced your the best at what you do in the entire world thank you for all your help
The degrees of rotation on the zoom ring is probably fine if you just keep it at 500mm and then you can equally zoom in or out with the same amount of hand movement.
Bingo
Bongo
Hello I'm an amateur looking to improve my lens. Currently I have an r6 mark 2 with the rf 100-400 F5.6-8 lens. I shoot majority nature/sports. I love the detail and explanation with nature and other wildlife that you showed but would this be good as well for sports? Would you suggest getting the 200-800 or go with the 100-500? Thanks for the advice!
Go with the 200-800. With the 100-500 you'll often find you're cropping too much for small birds, if you shoot those.
@hstein27 okay great thank you! I will probably save up for the 200-800 lens sounds like it will do the nature needs and can work well enough for the sports side of photography too.
this lens looks great. i have the 100-500 and love it for my kid's soccer games and for birds. the extra reach of this lens for birds prob not as great for soccer if lighting isnt great. thanks for the review
I currently have a R6Mii and a Sigma 150-600 with the RF-EF adapter. kinda want to upgrade to this to get more reach and the quality might be a bit better, but have to budget for it. do a lot of aircraft (both full scale and radio control) photography and some nature so a big zoom is real nice.
One of my favorite photos was taken at an airshow with the Sigma 150-600. It was sharp enough that I could read the name of the pilot on the side.
would this work on the sigma mc-11 for sony?
What camera body were you using for these tests?
How does ths sharpness on this lens compare to the Sigma 150-600 C? Obviously, being native it should be better but since it isn't an L lens, I'm confused.
Do you recommend shooting in aperture priority mode when doing wildlife with this lens? I use it quite often when soing street photography amd it works perfectly.
Why would you do that ? Are you fixing the iso ?
The pro birders I follow all use manual + auto iso.
I have been using manual + auto iso for years.
There are only some very rare uses cases where you might want to fix the iso, eg extreme macro + flash
The look of the shot is determained by both the shutter speed and the aperture, not the iso. - just keep an eye on your iso to make sure it doesnt go too high.
Hypothetically, imagine if your camera shot clean to 1M iso. Then you whouldn't even consider iso any more.
@@nordic5490 well I primarily shoot portraits in a studio which are always done in manual mode. I love street photography and there is not usually any fast moving things I want to shoot so if I'm shooting people on the street I usually care more about my aperture unless I'm dragging my shutter for effect. I have my ISO capped so it never goes too high. But shooting street photography I would rather get the shot I want than fool around in manual and miss the shot. I shoot in Chicago and walking 10 feet could be a 2 stop difference in light. I don't want to miss the moment. I've never shot nature,so I'm just asking to see what makes the most sense. Also because the aperture changes with the zoom I didn't know if that made sense to do that and just to cap the shutter speed
that 100-500 is a beast. I do like 200-800 too. I am a Nikon tog' and gravitate to S-line. The100-400 is a sweet lent but I would like to see a 100-500 S-line too. I will be getting the 180-600 though.
I have this lens, totally cool so far
hello , Is it for action sports shooting ??? kitesurfing and windsurfing ??????
I'm looking to upgrade from a Sigma 150-600 to the Canon 200-800. Would you feel that it's enough of an improvement to justify the jump from the $800 Sigma lens to a nearly $2,000 Canon lens?
Hi Jared, Does the FroPak bundle work as a standalone package for editing?
I watch all your videos. Local to philly. I so need your personal advice for shooting indoor color guards. Unfortunately the season just ended. But it's Weird gym light situations. Fast motion. Fast changing focus situations. I can't afford a $2k lens. Your photos are gorgeous though. Thanks for all you do.
This looks like the ideal lens for air shows to me (I am often forced to severely crop my photos from the 100-400 lens with my 80D)
a simple collar over the zoom ring with a sticky up paddle will make that long zoom throw alot easier esp for wildlife on tripod
Regarding a UV filter on the lens, I partially agree, especially on super-zoom lens as low-priced UV coated filters tend to diffuse light affecting sharpness at full zoom. This is like using a zoom lens behind window glass as the glass impurities WILL affect image quality. However, as a sports photographer on field sidelines, a quality UV filter will offer protection against dust, moisture, and impacts against the lens rim when not using a lens hood and is good glass protection insurance. I use a collapsible rubber lens hood instead for the best cushioning for rough handling of my cameras, like on basketball and tennis courts. On the other hand, when doing portrait or studio photography, I''ll remove the UV filter for the optimum image capture. There are pros and cons ot everything and nada is perfect. Right?
So many things are a question of tradeoffs. UV filter vs no filter. APS vs full frame. Cheeseburger vs bacon cheeseburger.
It's a complicated universe.
Agree with this as well as I work primarily in desert motorsports photography. The amount of dust that the gear get pelted with is insane and in some instances, it's protected by rocks and other flying debris.
I honestly dont know what to believe. I've watched comparison videos by a few youtubers with and without filter and the difference is pretty much non existant. Even when looking at pixel level. Nothing like shooting through a window. But many of the professional photographers say its a trap to use filters. Makes me wonder if they have also tried both or if its an unnecessary fear they have. I should do my own tests to know for sure.
love the videos Jared. (looks over at my pentax k3) another product i cant afford haha
This lens is insane. At that price I don't feel bad about it either as a hobbyist.
would have preferred internal zoom and a focus limiter...and a removable collar. Wouldn't have cost that much more for these to be added to the lens...
Yes Nikon and Sony can help you with Internal Zoom @@davepastern
so if you were using for wildlife photography. Which lens would you choice, the RF 200-800 or the 100-500?
I just altered my EF 300 2.8 II so the click stops are removed. IMO so much better.
Do you think this could be used for hockey?
Justgetting back into photography but i might add this lens to my triad. I could go from 28 to 200 at F2.8 and then reach out and touch something all the way to 800 mm without breaking the bank.
Thanks Jared!
The extender picture at 24:52 was shot with a RF 100-500 not 200-800?
Martin Wintergarten the creator of the Marble Music Machine is obsessed with tight music. Obsessed.
I was not expecting that price point. I may get it
Can I use this lens for Canon 80D for wild life photography ? I know 80D doesn’t have buildin IS for Camera body
no because it has RF mount and 80D has EF mount. You can use EF glass on the R mirrorless bodies with the adapter, but you can't use RF glass on the older mirror bodies.
@@WarszawskiProforma thank you so much for letting me know , I wasn’t aware of RF lens uses
Fire arms are combining ideas from photography Cannon might want to think of a Throw lever. That would be an easy attachment to make.
I bought it Christmas eve in Australia for $3100, $399 off, when I bought the RF 100-400 I thought what have I done, but not with this lens felt great, little hint if you need to go 200-800 rapidly use it like a trumpet like the Tamron 150-600
looking for a comment from you, I have the RF 100-500 and R6ii and R7, I am wondering if the RF 100-500 with the R7 (160-800 crop factor) vs the R6ii with 200-800, which would be better? Of course putting the R7 on the 200-800 is insane reach, but trying to decide whether to get the 200-800 or just keep using the RF 100-500 with the R7 when I want 800mm
Rent the 200-800 if you can
@@mvp_kryptonite No one has it, but Hunts Photo in RI where I am #1 on the list for the lens has a 30 day no questions asked return policy so I can try it for a month and return it if I don't like it.
I've found that with the 100-500 on my R7 I tend to get heat distortion, even on relatively mild days, at that kind of reach. I think being at 1280MM would only make that worse. If you get the 200-800 I think I would stick to the R6M2. The lens would be at f/14.4 on the R7, and I'm asking around here in the comments section to see if anyone knows if it's even sharp enough to resolve the sensor.
no still f9 at the R7 . the F number dont chance.😊
I wasn't sure I should buy it, but if it has solid as William Perry... the. It's a yes!
I have one on order and can not wit to get my hands on it. I plan on shooting with my R7 so with crop accounted for it should act like a 320-1280. Also on a crop body, I will be using the sharpest part of the lens, the middle and I hope this will get me great wildlife shoots that I would otherwise not be able to capture.
Archie Bell and the Drells “Tighten Up”
Finally Jered made review for 200 800. I preordered it last year. After 1 months use it, I do like this lens. It has decent sharpness and zoom (800mm) reach for squirrel and small birds with shallow depth of background. It focus fast but not the fastest. It is a little bit heavy for my noodle arm, and weight balance is a little bit weird especially when you change lens. A tiny ignorable fringing on the bright object. Weather seal is just as red ring lens, I used it in rain, snow under -2F. It has no problem. It is built by very solid material, I dropped it on the snow accidentally it still works fine.
In addition the zoom ring did feel a little bit looser after one month. And small tripod can’t handle the weight of this lens. I shoot it most time at 800mm so I didn’t zoom in and out that much frequently.
Have you used this lens with the R7? That sensor is very demanding and not every lens is capable of meeting the requirements for sharpness on it.
Nice with a real world longer review !
@@swistedfilms No, I only used it on R6. I did watch other TH-camr tested in on R7 you can watch their videos as reference. Be honest I think there should no problem if you use this lens on R7. My personally option when aperture is wide open and at minimum focus distance this lens is slightly sharper than 800 f11, 600 f11, and 100 500 + converter. Slightly less sharper than 100 500 without converter. But I highly doubt you can tell the difference until you zoom in to check the detail on your 5K screen.
The lens is 4” wide. What’s the dimension with the tripod collar?
Any news on the horizon of Sony, Sigma, or Tamron coming up with a competitive E mount in that 200-800 range? Would love to see and E mount hit the market.
My only question is whether this lens is as sharp as the RF 100-500 L f/4.5-7.1. I own one and it can keep up with the sensor on my R7, something that my adapted EF 70-200 L f/2.8 Mark III wasn't able to do. Now, actually USING it on the R7 is probably insane (f/14.4 at 800MM!) but then there's the R5: can it resolve that 45 MP sensor? If it can then this is a fantastic budget wildlife lens. You can do a 50% crop on the R5 image and still print at 24x36 confidently.
Thanks for the review!
no still f9 at the r7😊
I use this lens on both my R7 and my R5. I use it mostly on the R7 for the reach. This lens is surprisingly sharp. I don’t really see a sharpness difference between it and my RF 100-500. The advantage of the RF 100-500 is slightly faster focusing and lighter weight. I still use the RF 100-500 for BIF.
I would be surprised if you were unhappy with the ability to resolve for the sensor on the R5. I think it does a great job.
@jeffolson4731 thanks for the information! That's just what I was looking for!
Please include hair test to your reviews, if your hair get stuck inside the lens when you zoom out, does it uproot from scalp while zooming back in?
I just got to use one on Wednesday! I love this lens…perks of working at a big camera store!
Great Video! Thanks :)
Dud, it's been mad years. You are still Rocking!!!
Do you have a Wes Anderson preset?
Great review, but testing on the R3? This lens is more likely going to be purchased by someone on an enthusiast body, such as the R7. How do you feel that would change your review?
Pairs well with an r8 also
Black Keys - Tighten Up
In this budget i got my sigma 150-600mm and 250d and it works fine and has same reach too
I don't use the zoom ring with my Sony 100-400mm g master lens, I put it in Smooth and use the hood and little door for the filter adjustment to pull and push it to the zoom I want. I bet it works on this lens also and you will not have to worry about zooming issues
is it sharper than the 24-240mm RF? thanks
I assume they’re quite on par with each other
got this a few weeks ago…it’s what I’ve always wanted for wildlife photography….love it!
Sorry, I usually don't take raw photos, I don't have time for processing. Many megapixels are also not my favorite. It's different for lenses, I like good lenses. I'm not always in favor of sharp photos, but I like them to be richer in color and the right moment is of great importance to me. That's how I like to do it.
How far were you standing from the flamingo?
Mine has been ordered two weeks but sadly they are on back order and it is no telling when we can get one.
Jared- love the videos been watching over 10 years. I would recommend that you ask Canon why they cannot deliver this lens to those of us who ordered over 5 months ago and still nothing and no word. This lens is unobtanium.
Tighten Up. Achie Bell and the Drells
What would you buy, a rf200-800 to my eos R or a R7 body to my rf 100-400 lens??🤔
I forgot to tell that I photograph and take videos of wildlife and birds 😁