@@pdxnate3314 It’s actually sharper then a razor blade, some surgeons actual prefer obsidian blades over scalpels because how much more sharper and precise it is than a scalpel
I have used this sharpener with great results in the low 100's. Pay attention to the burr and use the lightest pressure on the final stones but triple the passes. The steel of the knife also makes a difference.
Exactly. Those knives he is using are cheap n made from very cheap steel thats not gonna sharpen to a super fine edge. I wouldn't use that 1000 dollar tool on cheap blades. The 4dollar one is better suited to keeping that cheap steel usable. Now if u got some good Damascus kitchen blades or carry blades then yeah id use the better tool on them.
@@GlorifiedGremlin there is generally a burr created no matter what procedure is used. This method minimizes it but he didnt reduce pressure at the end to effectively polish it off. I have seen a burr produced with this setup that is so thin it will alternate the side it lays on after each stroke. This is when the micro-burr gets finished off with a strop.
Ceramic rods like in the $4 knife sharpener commonly vary from between 1,000 grit to 4,000 grit. Also, when you sharpen a knife it creates micro burrs that are harder to see and feel. That's why most people going for a razor edge finish the blade with a leather strop and some stropping/buffing compound. From my experience a good thorough stropping can take a knife from a "decent" cut through paper, to being shaving sharp on its own. If you get a strop, make sure you get one with a rougher almost "furry" (I guess) feeling to it on one side and then a smooth firm leather on the other.
When I began sharpening by hand I knew nothing but i still new that leather was a really great finisher and would use it without even realizing that was a normal thing that professionals did
@@gwc_garage Sounds like you were farther ahead than you thought! When I first started I honestly had no idea, however even the cheapest of strops have given me great results. Even cheaper vegan leather has done the job lol.
@@kfer9500 yeah when I started I had one stone that I didnt know the grit of different sand papers and a file(only used for larger blades like machetes or really really dull knives) and a small strip of leather.
If you're in a pinch and need to realign just your cutting edge, you can use a leather belt. It'll do the trick. You can also in an emergency use window glass to put a crude edge on a knife. Glass is harder than steel.
I think you hit the nail on the head with your final thoughts. The $1000 knife sharpener is definitely more aimed at specialists who have to sharpen a wide variety of blades and tools that may need fine adjustments to their angles. Additionally, it's been a while since I took inorganic chemistry, but IIRC there is a limit to how sharp you can make a blade based on its carbon content and I think that those particular blades aren't the highest quality in terms of edge retention.
I've put crazy edges on super cheap knives, they'll take an edge, but wont hold one. Almost any basic blade can take a mirror edge that'll show crazy results his knife sharpness tester, but they wont stay sharp with use. Getting a blade thats 55+HRC and it'll retain the edge much longer.
You were doing it wrong you have to sharpen 1 side at a time until you get a burr on the opposite side then do it to the other side until there is a burr on the opposite side then gently remove that burr then progress to the next grit and repeat. I sharpen my broadheads for hunting by hand same procedure as above and I promise you my blades would hit 100 to 150 on that scale try it and see. Use a post it paper to test for burr.
@Extremos the wicked edge is not designed to be a hobbyist's system. These are meant for people that either sharpen for a living, or depend on sharp knives day in and out.
@@litigioussociety4249 that is a subjective perspective. Adding more buttons to an airplane cabin usually costs a lot more money, doesn't make it any easier. Expresso makers cost a lot because of the quality they give you not because of your ability to use them. Automatic cars are easier to use these days you could argue, but a mechanic would tell you they are much harder to maintain and repair.
Simply didn't establish the initial bur needed to make sure the apex of the edge was fully defined. I myself only do my first 2 grits where I do a single side until I develop a bur then switch sides checking for the same bur followed by about a couple dozen alternating strokes. After those initial 2 grits, I simply alternate all remaining stones grits as I am confident that the apex edge is already achieved. Like others have said, ~150 on the tester is my norm at 100grit or so. I have much finer grits and strops and most of my personal knives and a select few friends, I normally shoot for 75-90 or so on my test results. I have some super steel EDC's that have 14degree edges that test in at 45-65. When I first started I made that same mistake of not getting a proper bur where my test results would be in the 300 range. Immediately after I realized it I went back, got the burs, then finished in the ~100 range. Its a huge difference. My guess is the second attempt Tyler made just got it closer to a bur but still missed it by a bit thus it improved but was not a spectacular result.
I’ve bought man scape products in there absolutely terrible! You can I get a close shave with them and they also nick your skin still! Don’t ever buy their products!
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
You need to strop the blade as well to get the best from it to as the act of sharpening the blade creates a burr that degraded the final finish, with the cheap tool the burr is forced to be in the center and the ceramic helps to lessen the burr, on the $1000 kit when you sharpen it down to a fine edge you end up pushing the burr back and forth until it ends up on one of the sides, when you used a sharpening tool like the $1000 it is essential that you strop the blade to remove / align the burr
@@inibrius5380 For 1000 freakin dollars it should be INCLUDED in the kit, it's not his fault their cheap asses didn't even include everything you need to sharpen the knife. They decided to splurge and that 100% unnecessary Pelican case instead, shows how stupid they are.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 i dunno if it's stupid or if they just understand the kind of person that's dropping a grand on a sharpening kit...it's either an 'avid home user' that has more money than sense or a professional knife sharpener that wants to pick and choose what additional stuff they get. Check out the Project Farm knife sharpener review, he's a lot more detailed about why this isn't worth the $$.
@@autumn5592 Take a blade that you've 'properly sharpened'. test it's sharpness using one of the tools shown in the video. Then strop it and test it again. Then tell me it's not necessary. Even with a high-grit sharpening stone (10k+) you're not getting a perfectly smooth blade. A strop works to polish and align a blade after sharpening to get rid of any micro-imperfections for the best possible blade.
I would say stropping isnt necessary and shouldent be used if you dont know what your doing, he doesnt even know how to use a whetstone or any stone properly
@@michaelleeper3649 exactly. And its not like hes tried to learn how to use them or read the instructions but thats his choice, i consider it as content but if he truly wants those accurate results its going to take much more.
The price of the sharpener doesn't matter, rather the technique is most important. A professional with a 50 dollar whetstone set can easily make shaving sharp.
Turned down the volume as soon as I saw that cinder block. Love these videos. This is probably my favorite TH-cam channel along with project farm. Thanks for taking your time to upload these.
The diamond stones have to be broken in on the wicked edge, you’ve also got to check for burr development, it’s a learning curve but it can get down to the 130 range with just the 1000 grit stones if you are patient enough.
I use the KME System and it's about $300 and I get results just as good as the Wicked Edge. Just my experience though. I highly recommend when you're using the Wicked Edge to take your time on the lowest grit before jumping to the next one. You can take a piece of paper while it's still in the base and drag it across the edge to see which spot needs more work. I'm not going to say you used it incorrectly because you used it right. It just takes more experience with it Tyler! I've gotten edges on my Lansky system the got a 50 on the Bess Tester
I know most folks don't care but any "sharpener" that uses carbide isn't actually sharpening your knife its stripping metal off the bevel the reason it feels sharp is because it basically turns the edge into a saw
It won't make it more accurate since neither included a strop. Adding additional sharpening accessories to the sharpening kit makes exactly zero kit. Hell add a blade smith to the kit to get the most accurate results while you're at it.
@@autumn5592 yes if you move up in grits and get to polishing you really don’t need to stop but he didn’t do that he used a coarse stone only so you def need to strop
@@imcrummy6114 No you don't. You can easily deburr on a 400-800 grit stone. (Takes a bit longer to learn the control, but in a system, takes all the skill out of it.)
This is why all sharpening systems suck. All I need are a few whetstones which cost a fraction of the price and I could probably get the edge into the 70s. Granted it takes a long time and lots of patience to be able to master whetstone sharpening, but it by far the best way. I've been sharpening for a few years now and have had better results than any knife sharpening system i've seen on the internet. Not to mention, if you put an expensive hand crafted Japanese chef's knife in one of these, it will destroy it. Not to say that whetstone sharpening is the only way to get a knife sharp, but I have found that it is the most effective.
Your desharpener AKA the cinderblock hurts my soul as a hobby knife maker. love these videos. I have an older model wicked edge with just 2 of the courser stone sets and get knives sharper than any other system Ive used. I need to get the really fine set some day. Stropping the blade after the sharpening is done will make it much better. .
This $1K system is remarkably similar in concept to my $50 Lansky sharpener (without the huge steel base). I bought the $10 accessory base mount and bolted it to my tool bench.
I bought the Lansky Deluxe with the clamp and tabletop mount. Complete waste of money. I've tried making only 10 passes with each grit as well as 40 passes with each grit. Doesn't make a difference. I let my son-in-law borrow it and he couldn't get it to sharpen his knives.
I 3d printed an Apex type knife sharpener. $4 in plastic, 2 8mm rods, a few bearings. Then I bought diamond stones that went up to 3,000 from amazon for $40. The stones had a 400, 500, and 600. I took the 500 and glued leather to it with Shoe Goo and clamped it between two pieces of steel to ensure it's flat and even. Fun project. After stopping I can hold a sheet of paper and with the middle of the edge cut into the flat of the page at about a 25° angle. I wish I could test it on a tester like yours. Just a cheap D2 knife.
First tip..... Never test a blade with paper. Paper dulls a knife. Ask my wife if I can use her good sewing scissors for paper. She would shoot me for asking. She won't even cut near a tissue pattern with her good fabric scissors. Test before paper and see the difference.
I have had a $400 Wicked EdgeUSA system for ten years now and love it. In reality you really don't need to go above 1K grit, it gets super scary sharp, as long as you keep to a consistent angle. I keep my kitchen cutlery at 23 degrees, restaurant industry standard is 22.5, so a half degree up is good enough for me. As for my hunting and pocket knives, I put them at 20 degrees. One pointer I would advise is to sharpen down, not up. As for the carbide pull through, toss it, over time it will damage your blade edges, much quicker than people realize.
As tons of others have said, you forgot to remove the burs. There's a few ways to do it, but I'm not gonna go into that. What I will say though, I've got a little Lansky set that runs on the exact same principles as the wicked edge, but was something like $20. I can get cheap pocket knives sharp enough to clear arm hair in about 20 minutes or so. The sharpening, not the shaving part :P Never really timed myself. Now the highest grit stone on that set is also a 1000 grit I believe.
Most of my woodshop is dedicated to my wood lathes. We seldom sharpen past 1000 grit for the skew chisel. Bowl gouges generally in the 180 to 600 grit range. A 1000 grit stone still leaves a noticeable burr on it, which has to be honed off on a leather wheel with polishing compound. If you don't hone that burr off, the skew chisel will cut fine in one direction, but not in the other. Don't understand why there are not diamond stones available in grits over 1000 grit. With abrasives/sand paper, the grits are done by electrostatic charges to pick up the grit, which is far better than sifting. Take your $1000 sharpened blade and a leather strop to remove the burr, and it will match the other cheap one. I would guess that the burr is pretty much gone with a 6000 to 8000 grit hone/strop. Carvers have multiple honing/stropping compounds to get even the tiny bit of a burr off.
This guy is special, there is a reason I prefer Project Farm, as he actually understands science. Tyler, you don’t know how to use the wicked edge, so you should have at minimum watched a TH-cam video to not make a complete arse out of yourself. You should also have a basic understanding of how carbide is great in am emergency situation but otherwise will ruin the knife as it removes far too much material. If you were to examine both edge under a microscope you would see the damage done to the blade sharpened by the carbide sharpener. If you’re going to make claims, make sure you understand the basic concept of sharpening which you clearly have zero understanding of,
The knife sharpener for $ 4 gives the knife a raw edge, a sharpness that quickly disappears. The one for $ 1000 gives a more durable edge. But you made a mistake, you have to finish grinding on one side before grinding the other side. That is, you should not grind right, left, right left ...
You need to “break in” a wicked edge. The adhesion process leaves excess grit on each plate. The excess grit makes the rating lower than marked until broken in. Your 1000 grit stone unbroken in is probably closer to a 500. Sharpen 20 knives and then re-test.
ive seen a lot of knife collectors and makers say this is really good, i think it just takes a bit of getting used to but once you get it down and stones are broken in, and you strop the blades, i think youll see a huge difference my friend. cheers!
Here is the thing being a chef myself and have a huge love for knifes from cooking knifes to every day carry .. even though yes you used a $1000 sharpener you still need to use a honing steel to finish the fine tuming of the blades edge . I have used sharpeners that are upwards of $10,000 and I still at the end had to use a honing steel to get the fully desired edge . I have also used a $2 sharpener and gotten close results . Just one takes less time than the other to do . The only sure true way to get the sharpest edge without using a honing steelcis to use a grit that is so fine upwards of 10,000 grit wet paper also known as micro mesh or even a ceramic stone to hone it down to perfection . You can use the bottom of a ceramic coffee mug or even a bowl or plate with a lip on it . Or you can even use the ceramics off a spark plug as well or even use the back of another knife as well .
Hey Tyler, don't forget you also measured them at the beginning if that makes you feel better. $4 labeled knife: 555-230 = 325 $1000 labeled knife: 430-400 = 30
I always find myself looking at these videos and thinking. “this is going to be such a waste of my time to watch” but I always end up clicking on the video and I always end up watching all the way through. And I always end up being entertained. So kind of a backhanded compliment but whatever you’re doing is working.
I use a leather strop belt with green jewelers rouge on a cheap belt sander. (After first using a regular 3-stage whetstone) It'll get a good knife so sharp that I can literally shave my face with it. I'd maybe use that $1000 job if I was sharpening wicked expensive Japanese knives or something, but I'm not that bougie.
Can you do this again but remove the burr please?? Also instead of doing one side after the other in succession try sharpening one side completely then the other, after removing the burr.
I used to use Fiskars sharpener for years and it worked okay, some knifes worke dout really well, some not so much. Later I took a class in how to use whetstones, and it was the best thing I ever did. At the class I tested how good fiskars sharpened my knifes and it went around 400- 600grams. Using whetstones from 600grit up to 5000 grit I got a kitchen knife to only put 145 grams on the weight. If you want lazersharp knifes that will also work well on any Axe, Leatherman, Pocket knife and any house holde knife, use a WHETSTONE! You only need one stone to get started and a youtube guide, and I can promise that withing 2-3 hours you're all set to get a knife to atleast 500-600 grams of preasure. Now when you'te comfortable you can buy more expensive set of whetstone at higher grit rating and polish the edge for razorsharp edge. The reason I wanted to stop using Fiskars is that it cut too much material away from the blade. I used it on my kitchedn knife and it was "Okay" sharp, but it also wore down after 6-7 months of use 1/4th of the blade was gone. And Fidskars didn't work well with my smaller leatherman knife blade. I would rate Fiskars at 3/10 and my whetstones at 10/10.
With the stone running along the blade you don't need to create a bur, nor are you particularly likely to. A burr is not essential to sharpening a blade, but when your sharpening motion is perpendicular to the blade you are highly likely to create a burr. Very hard steels are less likely to form a burr, but will still become super sharp
The wicked edge sharpener wasn't used properly. You've gotta get some practice with it and then it'll shine above the others. The ceramic stones and strops you can purchase also take it to another level of sharp. They work incredibly well. The biggest downfall is when sharpening the curve on blades. It doesn't keep the same angle as the blade drops to the point. I've owned one for years and sharpened hundreds of knives. It's surely better than a $4 sharpener. Get some practice, read a manual, watch someone else's TH-cam of The Wicked Edge. You didn't do it justice.
I was kind of screaming in my head, he did not apex the edge first, up and down untill a Burr or wire edge. It's only then you move on to the high grits, this guy does not know what he's doing....ohhhh if only I had that thing. I had the Wicked Edge Go the cheapest, and got some of the sharpest edges I could not believe. Hair popping at its least.
Ceramic help makes the blade edges smoother by knocking down the burs while also being a high grit sandpaper more or less. Also can you do a work sharp comparison i have one of them that sharpens my knives really well
10$ knife... a good quality knife on a wicked edge gets crazy sharp, even with 1000 grit. Strop the blade after sharpening and practice a bit more, then u will get amazing results. Any sharp knife will cut paper, but only a properly sharpened knife will cut paper smoothly along the hole edge. I use the paper cutting only to tell me about imperfections in the cutting edge and not to measure sharpness.
I wonder what it would do to a Dollar Tree knife? I'm wondering if there'd even be anything left of the knife after the good sharpener got through with it.
I bought one of these last week and man... It was nothing like this guys video.... This was just cringe to watch now that I have experience. Like he didn't even read the instructions..... or use good steel.... I'm just like what.... what... Was that???
But. He did lmao. We're all human though. Can't expect Tyler to know everything. Unless it's about flex tape/glue. Lol. Knife sharpening is a long process with many steps aside from what he has done here.
Definitely user error. You need to strop both for starters and also the diamond stones on the wicked edge aren't broken in. Use a tool drawer liner and use that to lock the spine in solid in the vice to prevent movement. Also use a sharpie to verify you're properly apexing your edge. It's the user not the tool I have one and can guarantee you better results than this 😂
True but at this point i know its hard to not say anything and i feel the same way but its getting kinda toxic even though he says he doesnt care. Your 100% right they are quite simple rookie mistakes to make you would think after all these sharpening videos he would know what to do but you have to respect him for who he is
@@xd-qi6ry I mean all he had to do was read the user manual. I lost respect for him when he started playing with high voltage like an idiot. He's going to get himself killed in the pursuit of views and I don't have respect for that 💯
Maybe he's showing which is easier just out of the box for average person who doesn't know about this skill or read manuals. For those average people they'll fare better with cheap one because expensive one is too complicated for them.
Try finishing the sharpening process on the finest stones and lightly running them " leading edge sharpening " Rather than the Safe and recomended by the manufactures instructions " trailing edge sharpening " that you exhibited in this vid . I believe you have formed a burr and you're just pushing it from one side to the other with every sharpening stroke . Also wet (with water) the fine stones when finishing the sharpen that will further reduce the aggressiveness of the stones .... 65 yrs old ... 52 yrs sharpening on oil stones experience ... Cheers from New Zealand
The wicked edge is a rip off, its way overpriced for what it is. I suggest the KME, much more budget friendly. If you want to go super budget, get the work sharp precision adjust. I personally like the KME. You also need to strop when done sharpening to get the sharpest edge. 1000 grit is enough to get razer sharp. Just takes practice and stroppping. Love your vids, keep them coming.
My set of super vitrified diamond stones cost over 4 grand. I however supplement my income with sharpening professionally and those are the fastest cutting and longest wearing stones one can buy. While expensive they are absolutely worth the money for professional sharpeners as well as, serious hobby sharpeners. Spending a couple hundred bucks on a quality set of stones or diamond plates is totally worth the money as they will last the average user for life and perform very well. These fixed angle systems are trading skill for money and will do a good job once the learnjng curve is over but my advice to everyone is spend 100 bucks and buy a atoma 400 and 1200 diamond plate and you will be set for a very long time. Learn to free hand well first and foremost and you won't need to pay the money for these fixed angle systems.
The Wicked edge isn’t for the faint of heart but I think it’s worth it. I wouldn’t let any of my knives come close to that 4 dollar sharpener especially when u have a couple that cost more than the wicked edge.
5:57 - Whether or not a blade can shave hair is not really a measurement of how sharp it is though, some of the sharpes knives I have right now does not shave without excessive force, while some that are alot less sharp by a good margin will do it. Of course it has to be reasonably sharp to begin with, but whether or not it bites into hair instead of gliding over it is mostly up to edge angle, scratch pattern, geometry, steel type and grit used. I personally find that knives sharpened on either really low grit or really high grit shaves easily, but medium grits do not.
I personally use a $15 WorkSharp Pocket Sharpener & a handmade Leather Strop with Super Fine stropping compound. So it starts on the Diamond Stone, then the Ceramic Rod & finished on the Leather Strop. I use that set up on every blade and follow the factory edge. The knives I use on the daily is a Victorinox Huntsman, Morakniv Eldris, Morakniv Kansbol, Morakniv Precision, Morakniv Spoon Knife. Other knives I own are Morakniv Filet, Leatherman Rev, Morakniv Rescue Knife, and a few cheapo back ups.
I looked at this a few years ago, price was no object, but also reviewed the TSPROF K03 Master Kit. I ended up going with the TSPROF KO3. It came with more Diamond Bit stones. Remember, you are buying two stones for the Wicked Edge for each stone for the KO3. I now have added up to 60,000 grit Micron film to get a mirror finish on my blades. Buy the TSPROF KO3 or look at their cheaper sharpening systems for less money but same stones. Very honest review.
I keep a work sharp in my kitchen drawer. The edge honer (ceramic) can make keeping your cheap or had me down knives cutting like a much more expensive knife. Best investment I ever made.
@TylerTube sharpening the knife by pulling the stones away from the spine of the blade can create a flimsy edge as material is dragged towards the edge. Try sharpening by pushing the stones towards the spine, which stops burrs from protruding from the edge of the blade. Basically, sharpen TOWARD the spine, not toward the edge.
As the owner of the WickedEdge, I can attest that you can get MUCH better results with this with proper use. As others have pointed out, getting numbers around the 100g mark are very reasonably achievable with wicked edge. My main problem with this video, however, is that it doesnt address the number one problem with "draw-through"-style knife sharpeners, which is that they create a scratch pattern parallel with the knife edge, which will VERY easily round over and become damaged after very minor use. Any knife sharpener that can put a scratch pattern perpendicular to the blade instead will always achieve a better, long-lasting edge.
The scale your using to test the sharpness has two types of ways to rig it up. One is premade wire clip things and the other is where you yourself wires it up, if you're using the later option your going to get obscure results cause you might set it up different everytime. DBK on TH-cam talks about this on one of their videos and gives an example
I bought a new bushcraft/carving knife recently and after a fair few hours of (mainly) carving, just using a strop for 5 minutes got the blade sharper than when it arrived.
When i was in the Navy I learned how to sharpen a knife really well on the bottom of a ceramic coffe cup, It takes practice. But you can get a decent edge.
Being a chef, the bevels on the knives makes me want to cry, they are HUGE! All you need is a 17 degree grind with 100 (if damaged), 600 (Mildly Blunt), and then 1000 grit. Anything over 1000 is just for polishing.
I use the wicked edge and sharpen well beyond 1000 grit. I'm a meat cutter and i've often heard people say a polished edge isnt good for cutting meat. My personal experience disagrees with that to the core. I use a mirror edge for cutting meat and it sure makes my job a hell of alot easier.
On each knife you can only make it as sharp as the steel will let you i would like to see this again with some treated steel or maybe you could find a graph on what steel can be sharpest
I use a couple water stones, if I want to polish the edge up more then I have found 1500-3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper works. Costs way less than $1000-$1200
The motion you used results in a wire edge. Most instructions I have describe "trying to cut the top layer from the stone" Retry with a downward motion. Also there should not be a need to use each grit in number, the finest two should do it. I'm the son of a barber (for 60+ years) and great nephew of a master machinist. On top of that a friends dad is a chef. So I can sharpen a straight razor to a c.)old chisel with a chefs knife being the best working edge (longest lasting.)
I feel like it’s all in the technique. Was the angle matched? did a burr occur? That wicked edge system is amazing and if done right will produce hair splitting sharp knives. So will a $60 lansky. It’s all in the technique. Also whatever that fan, clutch, squeak is, it’s very distracting. You might consider a lav mic on your shirt or a boom mic closer to your mouth to eliminate the shop noise. Cheers brother 🤙🏻
As much as I love watching your vids CAN you put the tiniest amount of effort and do some research on what grit on a stones means, how to de-bur a knife etc the videos would come out so much better
When it comes to “rougher” grits below like 2000, you absolutely need to strop them or else you basically have a microscopic saw, that’s why they feel so insanely sharp but don’t actually preform how they feel. When you get to grits like 8000, stropping still will make your edge even sharper, but it’s so fine at that point that Most of those burrs aren’t even noticeable since they’re so insanely small
@@autumn5592 and where is this coming from / what’s the science behind it? Because at super coarse grits a wire burr forms on the edge. You need to either strop it or break it off, when you move on to the next grit you “strop” that wire off, and then start a finer wire and burr on the edge. As you get to finger grits, that wire and the burrs become much less tough and sometimes just pretty much disintegrate
@@riggsvsoliver Admittedly, yes, anecdotal. But there is a science of sharp article that proves it can be done with a relatively low grit. (Guy looks at the edge under an electron microscope.) You can sharpen knives (or anything really), without forming burrs, it's all in the technique.
You are doing something wrong I have seen that sharpener on other channels and it get the knife sharper then the manufacture edge. Also the knife out of the box was 430 on 400 manufacture edge there maybe a problem with the knife being able to get a good edge. You have to do one side at at time with 10 passes check for a bur when you have a bur do the other side. do the is until a bur is not detected. This will shape the edge. Once you do this then do the alternating passes. I would get a Lansky system it will get almost as sharp as the Wick Edge about 5% of the cost.
I feel like this is a tad bit of user error and the fact that you have never use this which is fine if you put someone who's used it for years I feel like there would have been better results and by the way I love your content and you've been on a good uploading streak with great videos every day
Watch me live on twitch! www.twitch.tv/Tyler_tube
$1000 sharpener - amzn.to/3BiUs9z
$4 sharpener - amzn.to/3bcaZkY
California construction Channel said he is going to expose you this weekend and show you how to use a saw.
Bro read the instructions next time
16 hours ago, videos only an hour old XD (I know he pinned it before publishing)
@@miketorres3597 th-cam.com/video/hI_i7QpZmzM/w-d-xo.html
@@miketorres3597 he just posted it
Have we tried sharpening a stone yet?I bet you would be amazed with how sharp obsidian can get and other stones
You dont need to sharpen obsidian. It's already as sharp as a scalpel when flaked in to pieces.
@OPEN PAGE,,,,,, 👇😍 wtf
@@pdxnate3314 It’s actually sharper then a razor blade, some surgeons actual prefer obsidian blades over scalpels because how much more sharper and precise it is than a scalpel
Tyler has wet stones. Check in the library to see if agree with his sharpening stones
I use my great grandfathers sharpening stone for my kitchen knifes, as long as you know how to do it right your knife will be really sharp
I have used this sharpener with great results in the low 100's. Pay attention to the burr and use the lightest pressure on the final stones but triple the passes. The steel of the knife also makes a difference.
Exactly. Those knives he is using are cheap n made from very cheap steel thats not gonna sharpen to a super fine edge. I wouldn't use that 1000 dollar tool on cheap blades. The 4dollar one is better suited to keeping that cheap steel usable. Now if u got some good Damascus kitchen blades or carry blades then yeah id use the better tool on them.
But that 1000 dollar tool is a sharpener. You still need to hone the edge after to get a razor fine edge.
There never WAS a burr lol he was going back and fourth instead of one side at a time
@@GlorifiedGremlin there is generally a burr created no matter what procedure is used. This method minimizes it but he didnt reduce pressure at the end to effectively polish it off. I have seen a burr produced with this setup that is so thin it will alternate the side it lays on after each stroke. This is when the micro-burr gets finished off with a strop.
Ceramic rods like in the $4 knife sharpener commonly vary from between 1,000 grit to 4,000 grit. Also, when you sharpen a knife it creates micro burrs that are harder to see and feel. That's why most people going for a razor edge finish the blade with a leather strop and some stropping/buffing compound. From my experience a good thorough stropping can take a knife from a "decent" cut through paper, to being shaving sharp on its own. If you get a strop, make sure you get one with a rougher almost "furry" (I guess) feeling to it on one side and then a smooth firm leather on the other.
When I began sharpening by hand I knew nothing but i still new that leather was a really great finisher and would use it without even realizing that was a normal thing that professionals did
@@gwc_garage Sounds like you were farther ahead than you thought! When I first started I honestly had no idea, however even the cheapest of strops have given me great results. Even cheaper vegan leather has done the job lol.
@@kfer9500 yeah when I started I had one stone that I didnt know the grit of different sand papers and a file(only used for larger blades like machetes or really really dull knives) and a small strip of leather.
yes
If you're in a pinch and need to realign just your cutting edge, you can use a leather belt. It'll do the trick. You can also in an emergency use window glass to put a crude edge on a knife. Glass is harder than steel.
I think you hit the nail on the head with your final thoughts. The $1000 knife sharpener is definitely more aimed at specialists who have to sharpen a wide variety of blades and tools that may need fine adjustments to their angles. Additionally, it's been a while since I took inorganic chemistry, but IIRC there is a limit to how sharp you can make a blade based on its carbon content and I think that those particular blades aren't the highest quality in terms of edge retention.
I've put crazy edges on super cheap knives, they'll take an edge, but wont hold one. Almost any basic blade can take a mirror edge that'll show crazy results his knife sharpness tester, but they wont stay sharp with use. Getting a blade thats 55+HRC and it'll retain the edge much longer.
@@DIRTYHARRYBALLISTICS oh yeah. I remember once at a camp out my SPL sharpened a butter knife he found in the woods to razor sharpness
Except, due to the design, the expensive knife sharpener doesn't put a consistent angle on the blade.
He also still wasn't using it right in the end. which is why he got the result he did.
@@paulrawlinson8653 there's an adjustment to tighten the jaws, user error, not design flaw.
You were doing it wrong you have to sharpen 1 side at a time until you get a burr on the opposite side then do it to the other side until there is a burr on the opposite side then gently remove that burr then progress to the next grit and repeat. I sharpen my broadheads for hunting by hand same procedure as above and I promise you my blades would hit 100 to 150 on that scale try it and see. Use a post it paper to test for burr.
@@litigioussociety4249 a thousand dollar knife sharpener is for professionals who know what they are doing, not the average person.
@@lordcrayzar professionals who know what they are doing use stones.
@Extremos the wicked edge is not designed to be a hobbyist's system. These are meant for people that either sharpen for a living, or depend on sharp knives day in and out.
@@litigioussociety4249 that is a subjective perspective. Adding more buttons to an airplane cabin usually costs a lot more money, doesn't make it any easier. Expresso makers cost a lot because of the quality they give you not because of your ability to use them. Automatic cars are easier to use these days you could argue, but a mechanic would tell you they are much harder to maintain and repair.
@@t_c5266 exactly my thoughts lmao
Simply didn't establish the initial bur needed to make sure the apex of the edge was fully defined. I myself only do my first 2 grits where I do a single side until I develop a bur then switch sides checking for the same bur followed by about a couple dozen alternating strokes. After those initial 2 grits, I simply alternate all remaining stones grits as I am confident that the apex edge is already achieved. Like others have said, ~150 on the tester is my norm at 100grit or so. I have much finer grits and strops and most of my personal knives and a select few friends, I normally shoot for 75-90 or so on my test results. I have some super steel EDC's that have 14degree edges that test in at 45-65. When I first started I made that same mistake of not getting a proper bur where my test results would be in the 300 range. Immediately after I realized it I went back, got the burs, then finished in the ~100 range. Its a huge difference. My guess is the second attempt Tyler made just got it closer to a bur but still missed it by a bit thus it improved but was not a spectacular result.
YESSS!!!!! finally, not an idiot on here. This guy should not be doing these tests.
Everyone go get a manscape razor
So we can support Tyler’s poor financial decisions
I’ve bought man scape products in there absolutely terrible! You can I get a close shave with them and they also nick your skin still! Don’t ever buy their products!
Every single electric razor I've owned, do NOT feel nice in the scrotal region. Not worth the pain.
I went ahead and ordered one just cause I needed a new trimmer and figured I'd check it out and support Tyler at the same time
@@curbotize you just got sensitive balls mate I've always used an electric trimmer for that area works better than a regular razor
@@gwc_garage I mean that is plausible. The razor just takes so much time and patience. (also been there done that) if you catch my drift.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
You need to strop the blade as well to get the best from it to as the act of sharpening the blade creates a burr that degraded the final finish, with the cheap tool the burr is forced to be in the center and the ceramic helps to lessen the burr, on the $1000 kit when you sharpen it down to a fine edge you end up pushing the burr back and forth until it ends up on one of the sides, when you used a sharpening tool like the $1000 it is essential that you strop the blade to remove / align the burr
they make a strop and their own stropping compound as part of this kit, he jsut didn't get it.
@@inibrius5380 For 1000 freakin dollars it should be INCLUDED in the kit, it's not his fault their cheap asses didn't even include everything you need to sharpen the knife. They decided to splurge and that 100% unnecessary Pelican case instead, shows how stupid they are.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 i dunno if it's stupid or if they just understand the kind of person that's dropping a grand on a sharpening kit...it's either an 'avid home user' that has more money than sense or a professional knife sharpener that wants to pick and choose what additional stuff they get. Check out the Project Farm knife sharpener review, he's a lot more detailed about why this isn't worth the $$.
You don't NEED to strop. If you sharpen properly there will be no burr.
Strops aren't needed if you know how to sharpen, which you clearly don't.
@@autumn5592 Take a blade that you've 'properly sharpened'. test it's sharpness using one of the tools shown in the video. Then strop it and test it again. Then tell me it's not necessary. Even with a high-grit sharpening stone (10k+) you're not getting a perfectly smooth blade. A strop works to polish and align a blade after sharpening to get rid of any micro-imperfections for the best possible blade.
I can't wait on the update video when you've learned how to use the sharpener.
I would suggest a leather razor/knife strop to finish the sharpening.
I would say stropping isnt necessary and shouldent be used if you dont know what your doing, he doesnt even know how to use a whetstone or any stone properly
@@xd-qi6ry Nobody is perfect.
@@michaelleeper3649 exactly. And its not like hes tried to learn how to use them or read the instructions but thats his choice, i consider it as content but if he truly wants those accurate results its going to take much more.
Your content has come so far. Still remember watching the flext tape strength and flex seal videos. Keep up the good work bro
the fact a $1000 sharpener isn't automated blows my mind
auto sharpening < hand sharpening
The price of the sharpener doesn't matter, rather the technique is most important. A professional with a 50 dollar whetstone set can easily make shaving sharp.
Turned down the volume as soon as I saw that cinder block. Love these videos. This is probably my favorite TH-cam channel along with project farm. Thanks for taking your time to upload these.
I did too & I'm not even a big fan of knives.
As he started the cinder block I thought to myself, he HAS to use ear plugs when does that, doesn't he?
The diamond stones have to be broken in on the wicked edge, you’ve also got to check for burr development, it’s a learning curve but it can get down to the 130 range with just the 1000 grit stones if you are patient enough.
Use a strop, burr is still on both knives.
i was gonna say
Ya you gotta finish with some leather to align the burrs. Heck I use my leather belt or the case of the knife when I finish my knives
Was gonna suggest the same thing.
@@dennisgibsonii6316 with some compound for extra shine lol.
I always see someone do this, but what does it actually do, i though only polishing.
Best free knife sharpener is just the edge of a car window. Get it razor sharp.
I use the KME System and it's about $300 and I get results just as good as the Wicked Edge. Just my experience though. I highly recommend when you're using the Wicked Edge to take your time on the lowest grit before jumping to the next one. You can take a piece of paper while it's still in the base and drag it across the edge to see which spot needs more work. I'm not going to say you used it incorrectly because you used it right. It just takes more experience with it Tyler! I've gotten edges on my Lansky system the got a 50 on the Bess Tester
I get just as good results with my 60 dollar Lanksy system haha. But the wicked edge is easier to use and will prob last longer.
@@LargeNuts Same! I love the Lansky and I believe I have a video about what all I have put into that system so far
I do the paper drag while still in the clamp myself, it helps tremendously to always find that one trouble spot every knife seems to have.
I love my lansky and get similar results.
I also have the KDE and I finish off with leather strop with very good results
I know most folks don't care but any "sharpener" that uses carbide isn't actually sharpening your knife its stripping metal off the bevel the reason it feels sharp is because it basically turns the edge into a saw
Use a strop it will get rid of the burr on the knifes making the test more accurate
It won't make it more accurate since neither included a strop. Adding additional sharpening accessories to the sharpening kit makes exactly zero kit. Hell add a blade smith to the kit to get the most accurate results while you're at it.
You don't need to strop, you can remove the burr by sharpening properly.
@@autumn5592 yes if you move up in grits and get to polishing you really don’t need to stop but he didn’t do that he used a coarse stone only so you def need to strop
@@imcrummy6114 No you don't.
You can easily deburr on a 400-800 grit stone. (Takes a bit longer to learn the control, but in a system, takes all the skill out of it.)
This is why all sharpening systems suck. All I need are a few whetstones which cost a fraction of the price and I could probably get the edge into the 70s. Granted it takes a long time and lots of patience to be able to master whetstone sharpening, but it by far the best way. I've been sharpening for a few years now and have had better results than any knife sharpening system i've seen on the internet. Not to mention, if you put an expensive hand crafted Japanese chef's knife in one of these, it will destroy it. Not to say that whetstone sharpening is the only way to get a knife sharp, but I have found that it is the most effective.
Your desharpener AKA the cinderblock hurts my soul as a hobby knife maker. love these videos. I have an older model wicked edge with just 2 of the courser stone sets and get knives sharper than any other system Ive used. I need to get the really fine set some day. Stropping the blade after the sharpening is done will make it much better.
.
For a grand you'd think that it would include a good strop & instructions on how to use it properly.
@@Nirrrina it has instructions. But Tyler never reads them.
This $1K system is remarkably similar in concept to my $50 Lansky sharpener (without the huge steel base). I bought the $10 accessory base mount and bolted it to my tool bench.
Check out the Gatco system. Similar price but with better/wider stones and the rods don’t have the tendency to twist like with the Lansky.
Except better everything. And it actually holds a consistent angle
@@KnifeNinjaEDC yeah no shit, it’s a thousand dollars lmao
I bought the Lansky Deluxe with the clamp and tabletop mount. Complete waste of money. I've tried making only 10 passes with each grit as well as 40 passes with each grit. Doesn't make a difference. I let my son-in-law borrow it and he couldn't get it to sharpen his knives.
you diidnt use a strop for both of the knives. they need to have the extra burrs cleared for them to have any good results
Then the sharpening kits should include strops.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 they sharpen the knife, it’s still sharp but it’s way sharper with the strop, literally just use ur leather belt
@@Chromie21 It's comparing the sharpeners, not the sharpeners plus other accessories you already have.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 exactly but to sharpen any knife really sharp and make the sharpener shine you need a strop
You don't need to strop, deburr on the stones.
I 3d printed an Apex type knife sharpener. $4 in plastic, 2 8mm rods, a few bearings. Then I bought diamond stones that went up to 3,000 from amazon for $40. The stones had a 400, 500, and 600. I took the 500 and glued leather to it with Shoe Goo and clamped it between two pieces of steel to ensure it's flat and even. Fun project. After stopping I can hold a sheet of paper and with the middle of the edge cut into the flat of the page at about a 25° angle. I wish I could test it on a tester like yours. Just a cheap D2 knife.
First tip..... Never test a blade with paper. Paper dulls a knife. Ask my wife if I can use her good sewing scissors for paper. She would shoot me for asking. She won't even cut near a tissue pattern with her good fabric scissors. Test before paper and see the difference.
I have had a $400 Wicked EdgeUSA system for ten years now and love it. In reality you really don't need to go above 1K grit, it gets super scary sharp, as long as you keep to a consistent angle. I keep my kitchen cutlery at 23 degrees, restaurant industry standard is 22.5, so a half degree up is good enough for me. As for my hunting and pocket knives, I put them at 20 degrees. One pointer I would advise is to sharpen down, not up. As for the carbide pull through, toss it, over time it will damage your blade edges, much quicker than people realize.
As tons of others have said, you forgot to remove the burs. There's a few ways to do it, but I'm not gonna go into that. What I will say though, I've got a little Lansky set that runs on the exact same principles as the wicked edge, but was something like $20. I can get cheap pocket knives sharp enough to clear arm hair in about 20 minutes or so. The sharpening, not the shaving part :P Never really timed myself. Now the highest grit stone on that set is also a 1000 grit I believe.
Most of my woodshop is dedicated to my wood lathes. We seldom sharpen past 1000 grit for the skew chisel. Bowl gouges generally in the 180 to 600 grit range. A 1000 grit stone still leaves a noticeable burr on it, which has to be honed off on a leather wheel with polishing compound. If you don't hone that burr off, the skew chisel will cut fine in one direction, but not in the other. Don't understand why there are not diamond stones available in grits over 1000 grit. With abrasives/sand paper, the grits are done by electrostatic charges to pick up the grit, which is far better than sifting. Take your $1000 sharpened blade and a leather strop to remove the burr, and it will match the other cheap one. I would guess that the burr is pretty much gone with a 6000 to 8000 grit hone/strop. Carvers have multiple honing/stropping compounds to get even the tiny bit of a burr off.
First he talks about the “cringe worthy task of dulling the knives” and then starts talking about Manscaped. Had me scared there for a second…
This guy is special, there is a reason I prefer Project Farm, as he actually understands science.
Tyler, you don’t know how to use the wicked edge, so you should have at minimum watched a TH-cam video to not make a complete arse out of yourself.
You should also have a basic understanding of how carbide is great in am emergency situation but otherwise will ruin the knife as it removes far too much material.
If you were to examine both edge under a microscope you would see the damage done to the blade sharpened by the carbide sharpener.
If you’re going to make claims, make sure you understand the basic concept of sharpening which you clearly have zero understanding of,
The knife sharpener for $ 4 gives the knife a raw edge, a sharpness that quickly disappears.
The one for $ 1000 gives a more durable edge. But you made a mistake, you have to finish grinding on one side before grinding the other side. That is, you should not grind right, left, right left ...
You need to “break in” a wicked edge. The adhesion process leaves excess grit on each plate. The excess grit makes the rating lower than marked until broken in. Your 1000 grit stone unbroken in is probably closer to a 500. Sharpen 20 knives and then re-test.
Man that 1,000 knife sharpener looks beefy as hell 🤙
@OPEN PAGE,,,,,, 👇😍 what that gotta do with anything are you that desperate n life??
@@Justme-jt1ef it's a bot with a virus
@@blockofcheeze151 it’s annoying
ive seen a lot of knife collectors and makers say this is really good, i think it just takes a bit of getting used to but once you get it down and stones are broken in, and you strop the blades, i think youll see a huge difference my friend. cheers!
my Grandfather showed me how to sharpen tools and knives using a glass plate and wet and dry papers of different grades. Does a great job :)
This is called the "scary sharp method" for anyone interested.
Here is the thing being a chef myself and have a huge love for knifes from cooking knifes to every day carry .. even though yes you used a $1000 sharpener you still need to use a honing steel to finish the fine tuming of the blades edge . I have used sharpeners that are upwards of $10,000 and I still at the end had to use a honing steel to get the fully desired edge . I have also used a $2 sharpener and gotten close results . Just one takes less time than the other to do . The only sure true way to get the sharpest edge without using a honing steelcis to use a grit that is so fine upwards of 10,000 grit wet paper also known as micro mesh or even a ceramic stone to hone it down to perfection . You can use the bottom of a ceramic coffee mug or even a bowl or plate with a lip on it . Or you can even use the ceramics off a spark plug as well or even use the back of another knife as well .
You literally have no fucking idea what you're talking about.
Hey Tyler, don't forget you also measured them at the beginning if that makes you feel better.
$4 labeled knife: 555-230 = 325
$1000 labeled knife: 430-400 = 30
The amount of knife experts, and people who have this much interest in knives is surprising to me.
It's a pretty big community. Seeing a dumb ass post time wasting garbage like this is great for comments.
Pretty much the same for any hobby.
It's like buying a really nice violin then playing Metallica using a bread clip as a plectrum.
I always find myself looking at these videos and thinking. “this is going to be such a waste of my time to watch” but I always end up clicking on the video and I always end up watching all the way through. And I always end up being entertained. So kind of a backhanded compliment but whatever you’re doing is working.
I use a leather strop belt with green jewelers rouge on a cheap belt sander. (After first using a regular 3-stage whetstone) It'll get a good knife so sharp that I can literally shave my face with it. I'd maybe use that $1000 job if I was sharpening wicked expensive Japanese knives or something, but I'm not that bougie.
Even then i'd take a stone over it any day
Haven’t seen one of your vids in a while, just wanted to say you look awesome, Tyler is love Tyler is life
Can you do this again but remove the burr please?? Also instead of doing one side after the other in succession try sharpening one side completely then the other, after removing the burr.
I used to use Fiskars sharpener for years and it worked okay, some knifes worke dout really well, some not so much. Later I took a class in how to use whetstones, and it was the best thing I ever did. At the class I tested how good fiskars sharpened my knifes and it went around 400- 600grams. Using whetstones from 600grit up to 5000 grit I got a kitchen knife to only put 145 grams on the weight.
If you want lazersharp knifes that will also work well on any Axe, Leatherman, Pocket knife and any house holde knife, use a WHETSTONE! You only need one stone to get started and a youtube guide, and I can promise that withing 2-3 hours you're all set to get a knife to atleast 500-600 grams of preasure. Now when you'te comfortable you can buy more expensive set of whetstone at higher grit rating and polish the edge for razorsharp edge.
The reason I wanted to stop using Fiskars is that it cut too much material away from the blade. I used it on my kitchedn knife and it was "Okay" sharp, but it also wore down after 6-7 months of use 1/4th of the blade was gone. And Fidskars didn't work well with my smaller leatherman knife blade.
I would rate Fiskars at 3/10 and my whetstones at 10/10.
idk that $1000 sharpener took the knife back to near "factory" sharpness started at 400 before duliing it, then finished at 430 after sharpening it
Haha! You don't get tools like this to get near factory. You get this to make factory edges look like shit.
You created what's called a burr in knife sharpening. You need to strop to remove the burr.
this just goes to show it doesn't matter how much you spend on a sharpening system if you don't even know the fundementals of creating a bur.
With the stone running along the blade you don't need to create a bur, nor are you particularly likely to. A burr is not essential to sharpening a blade, but when your sharpening motion is perpendicular to the blade you are highly likely to create a burr. Very hard steels are less likely to form a burr, but will still become super sharp
Got a Lansky guided sharpener for when my knives really need some work then finish up with a strop and green compound. Works well and its cheap.
The wicked edge sharpener wasn't used properly. You've gotta get some practice with it and then it'll shine above the others. The ceramic stones and strops you can purchase also take it to another level of sharp. They work incredibly well. The biggest downfall is when sharpening the curve on blades. It doesn't keep the same angle as the blade drops to the point. I've owned one for years and sharpened hundreds of knives. It's surely better than a $4 sharpener. Get some practice, read a manual, watch someone else's TH-cam of The Wicked Edge. You didn't do it justice.
lol
I was kind of screaming in my head, he did not apex the edge first, up and down untill a Burr or wire edge. It's only then you move on to the high grits, this guy does not know what he's doing....ohhhh if only I had that thing. I had the Wicked Edge Go the cheapest, and got some of the sharpest edges I could not believe. Hair popping at its least.
Ceramic help makes the blade edges smoother by knocking down the burs while also being a high grit sandpaper more or less. Also can you do a work sharp comparison i have one of them that sharpens my knives really well
10$ knife... a good quality knife on a wicked edge gets crazy sharp, even with 1000 grit. Strop the blade after sharpening and practice a bit more, then u will get amazing results. Any sharp knife will cut paper, but only a properly sharpened knife will cut paper smoothly along the hole edge. I use the paper cutting only to tell me about imperfections in the cutting edge and not to measure sharpness.
If both knifes are the same, then they’ll both have a fair chance.
I wonder what it would do to a Dollar Tree knife?
I'm wondering if there'd even be anything left of the knife after the good sharpener got through with it.
I bought one of these last week and man... It was nothing like this guys video.... This was just cringe to watch now that I have experience. Like he didn't even read the instructions..... or use good steel.... I'm just like what.... what... Was that???
I like how the cricket and the background wanted to put his 2 cents in on which sharpener is better🦗😂
Cue all the people saying "you still didn't do it right!"
He literally said to tell him what he did wrong
But. He did lmao. We're all human though. Can't expect Tyler to know everything. Unless it's about flex tape/glue. Lol. Knife sharpening is a long process with many steps aside from what he has done here.
@@evaneasterwood9896 it literally tells you exactly what to do...
The comment section on this channel is getting quite toxic towards Tyler at times.
@@Mr.Belding for REAL, its sad. He's such a nice person. I've talked to him personally many times. I feel like he doesn't give a shit though lol
for people like you, that $4 knife sharpener is perfect. For people that actually read instruction manuals, the $1000 one is vastly superior.
Definitely user error. You need to strop both for starters and also the diamond stones on the wicked edge aren't broken in. Use a tool drawer liner and use that to lock the spine in solid in the vice to prevent movement. Also use a sharpie to verify you're properly apexing your edge. It's the user not the tool I have one and can guarantee you better results than this 😂
True but at this point i know its hard to not say anything and i feel the same way but its getting kinda toxic even though he says he doesnt care.
Your 100% right they are quite simple rookie mistakes to make you would think after all these sharpening videos he would know what to do but you have to respect him for who he is
@@xd-qi6ry I mean all he had to do was read the user manual. I lost respect for him when he started playing with high voltage like an idiot. He's going to get himself killed in the pursuit of views and I don't have respect for that 💯
Maybe he's showing which is easier just out of the box for average person who doesn't know about this skill or read manuals. For those average people they'll fare better with cheap one because expensive one is too complicated for them.
@@SoulDelSol 🤣 then that's user error not product flaw.
Try finishing the sharpening process on the finest stones and lightly running them " leading edge sharpening " Rather than the Safe and recomended by the manufactures instructions " trailing edge sharpening " that you exhibited in this vid . I believe you have formed a burr and you're just pushing it from one side to the other with every sharpening stroke . Also wet (with water) the fine stones when finishing the sharpen
that will further reduce the aggressiveness of the stones .... 65 yrs old ... 52 yrs sharpening on oil stones experience ... Cheers from New Zealand
You forgot to strop the knifes
You shouldn't have to. Deburr on the stones.
I came back after 3 years and this video is still entertaining :D
The wicked edge is a rip off, its way overpriced for what it is. I suggest the KME, much more budget friendly. If you want to go super budget, get the work sharp precision adjust. I personally like the KME. You also need to strop when done sharpening to get the sharpest edge. 1000 grit is enough to get razer sharp. Just takes practice and stroppping. Love your vids, keep them coming.
Try to strop them. I have a basic version of the wicked edge and with the straps I get a hair splitting edge with a mirror polish.
Great videos, always nice to learn how not to use products correctly.
For $1,000 I expect that knife to go through the paper like a surgical blade through Jello...
Manual tool.
Hand a guy a specialty hammer and a Walmart hammer and have him drive nails in a horizontal 2x4.
Then give those hammers to a framer.
The amount of knife nerds in the comments trying to justify spending 1000$ on a couple of stones is mildly concerning 🤣🤣
My set of super vitrified diamond stones cost over 4 grand. I however supplement my income with sharpening professionally and those are the fastest cutting and longest wearing stones one can buy. While expensive they are absolutely worth the money for professional sharpeners as well as, serious hobby sharpeners. Spending a couple hundred bucks on a quality set of stones or diamond plates is totally worth the money as they will last the average user for life and perform very well. These fixed angle systems are trading skill for money and will do a good job once the learnjng curve is over but my advice to everyone is spend 100 bucks and buy a atoma 400 and 1200 diamond plate and you will be set for a very long time. Learn to free hand well first and foremost and you won't need to pay the money for these fixed angle systems.
The Wicked edge isn’t for the faint of heart but I think it’s worth it. I wouldn’t let any of my knives come close to that 4 dollar sharpener especially when u have a couple that cost more than the wicked edge.
such poor results for the price
5:57 - Whether or not a blade can shave hair is not really a measurement of how sharp it is though, some of the sharpes knives I have right now does not shave without excessive force, while some that are alot less sharp by a good margin will do it. Of course it has to be reasonably sharp to begin with, but whether or not it bites into hair instead of gliding over it is mostly up to edge angle, scratch pattern, geometry, steel type and grit used. I personally find that knives sharpened on either really low grit or really high grit shaves easily, but medium grits do not.
I personally use a $15 WorkSharp Pocket Sharpener & a handmade Leather Strop with Super Fine stropping compound. So it starts on the Diamond Stone, then the Ceramic Rod & finished on the Leather Strop. I use that set up on every blade and follow the factory edge. The knives I use on the daily is a Victorinox Huntsman, Morakniv Eldris, Morakniv Kansbol, Morakniv Precision, Morakniv Spoon Knife. Other knives I own are Morakniv Filet, Leatherman Rev, Morakniv Rescue Knife, and a few cheapo back ups.
HOLD THE PHONE! DID I HEAR PLASTIC FOR 1K KNIFE SHARPENER? TF? for 1k there should be no plastic to it
I looked at this a few years ago, price was no object, but also reviewed the TSPROF K03 Master Kit. I ended up going with the TSPROF KO3. It came with more Diamond Bit stones. Remember, you are buying two stones for the Wicked Edge for each stone for the KO3. I now have added up to 60,000 grit Micron film to get a mirror finish on my blades. Buy the TSPROF KO3 or look at their cheaper sharpening systems for less money but same stones.
Very honest review.
Another great video. Keep up the great work 👍🏻
Keep on keeping on . You’re an awesome TH-camr !
I have a older wicked edge, you didn't use the system right, but also my old system goes to .5 micron
I keep a work sharp in my kitchen drawer. The edge honer (ceramic) can make keeping your cheap or had me down knives cutting like a much more expensive knife.
Best investment I ever made.
Yay you finally fixed the papers on the garage door!!! Thanks tyler!!
@TylerTube sharpening the knife by pulling the stones away from the spine of the blade can create a flimsy edge as material is dragged towards the edge. Try sharpening by pushing the stones towards the spine, which stops burrs from protruding from the edge of the blade. Basically, sharpen TOWARD the spine, not toward the edge.
$1000 knife sharpener requires some DLC for the full effect...
BTW, I heard that the Lanskey sharpener is a very good sharpener.
Hey Tyler, I often see some negativity in the comments under your vids, but just know, that we appreciate your videos and love the channel
As the owner of the WickedEdge, I can attest that you can get MUCH better results with this with proper use. As others have pointed out, getting numbers around the 100g mark are very reasonably achievable with wicked edge. My main problem with this video, however, is that it doesnt address the number one problem with "draw-through"-style knife sharpeners, which is that they create a scratch pattern parallel with the knife edge, which will VERY easily round over and become damaged after very minor use. Any knife sharpener that can put a scratch pattern perpendicular to the blade instead will always achieve a better, long-lasting edge.
Dude, new outro? Nice! I dig it.
You Need to learn how to use the wicked edge project farm did a similar video using the same product and was able to get 100
The scale your using to test the sharpness has two types of ways to rig it up. One is premade wire clip things and the other is where you yourself wires it up, if you're using the later option your going to get obscure results cause you might set it up different everytime. DBK on TH-cam talks about this on one of their videos and gives an example
We used to use the ceramic tubes used in 'Knob and Tube' wire insulators for final sharpening .
I bought a new bushcraft/carving knife recently and after a fair few hours of (mainly) carving, just using a strop for 5 minutes got the blade sharper than when it arrived.
was gonna binge anime, watched a yt vid to pass time until i was ready. binged this entire channel
Lol I just took the worksharp system out of my Amazon cart . Thank you for the save Tyler tube
When i was in the Navy I learned how to sharpen a knife really well on the bottom of a ceramic coffe cup, It takes practice. But you can get a decent edge.
Being a chef, the bevels on the knives makes me want to cry, they are HUGE! All you need is a 17 degree grind with 100 (if damaged), 600 (Mildly Blunt), and then 1000 grit. Anything over 1000 is just for polishing.
I use the wicked edge and sharpen well beyond 1000 grit. I'm a meat cutter and i've often heard people say a polished edge isnt good for cutting meat. My personal experience disagrees with that to the core. I use a mirror edge for cutting meat and it sure makes my job a hell of alot easier.
On each knife you can only make it as sharp as the steel will let you i would like to see this again with some treated steel or maybe you could find a graph on what steel can be sharpest
Doesn’t matter if both knifes are the same
@@shaneh7519 Yes, but there is always quality difference. Also, the knives he used doesn't adequately do justice to the $1000 knife sharpener.
I use a couple water stones, if I want to polish the edge up more then I have found 1500-3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper works. Costs way less than $1000-$1200
The motion you used results in a wire edge. Most instructions I have describe "trying to cut the top layer from the stone" Retry with a downward motion. Also there should not be a need to use each grit in number, the finest two should do it.
I'm the son of a barber (for 60+ years) and great nephew of a master machinist. On top of that a friends dad is a chef. So I can sharpen a straight razor to a c.)old chisel with a chefs knife being the best working edge (longest lasting.)
I feel like it’s all in the technique. Was the angle matched? did a burr occur? That wicked edge system is amazing and if done right will produce hair splitting sharp knives. So will a $60 lansky. It’s all in the technique.
Also whatever that fan, clutch, squeak is, it’s very distracting. You might consider a lav mic on your shirt or a boom mic closer to your mouth to eliminate the shop noise. Cheers brother 🤙🏻
As much as I love watching your vids CAN you put the tiniest amount of effort and do some research on what grit on a stones means, how to de-bur a knife etc the videos would come out so much better
When it comes to “rougher” grits below like 2000, you absolutely need to strop them or else you basically have a microscopic saw, that’s why they feel so insanely sharp but don’t actually preform how they feel. When you get to grits like 8000, stropping still will make your edge even sharper, but it’s so fine at that point that Most of those burrs aren’t even noticeable since they’re so insanely small
You have no idea what you're talking about.
@@autumn5592 explain?
@@riggsvsoliver You do NOT need to strop, even as low as 220 grit.
@@autumn5592 and where is this coming from / what’s the science behind it? Because at super coarse grits a wire burr forms on the edge. You need to either strop it or break it off, when you move on to the next grit you “strop” that wire off, and then start a finer wire and burr on the edge. As you get to finger grits, that wire and the burrs become much less tough and sometimes just pretty much disintegrate
@@riggsvsoliver Admittedly, yes, anecdotal.
But there is a science of sharp article that proves it can be done with a relatively low grit.
(Guy looks at the edge under an electron microscope.)
You can sharpen knives (or anything really), without forming burrs, it's all in the technique.
You are doing something wrong I have seen that sharpener on other channels and it get the knife sharper then the manufacture edge. Also the knife out of the box was 430 on 400 manufacture edge there maybe a problem with the knife being able to get a good edge. You have to do one side at at time with 10 passes check for a bur when you have a bur do the other side. do the is until a bur is not detected. This will shape the edge. Once you do this then do the alternating passes.
I would get a Lansky system it will get almost as sharp as the Wick Edge about 5% of the cost.
That $1k sharpener seems VERY unnecessarily overcomplicated.
Why are these knife videos so fun to watch???
I feel like this is a tad bit of user error and the fact that you have never use this which is fine if you put someone who's used it for years I feel like there would have been better results and by the way I love your content and you've been on a good uploading streak with great videos every day
So, to sum it all up: to my kitchen, I'll never spend over $20 on ANY utensil to sharp a knife.
Compare the worksharp precision adjust vs wicked edge. It's worksharps version of the wicked edge.