I'm in the middle of installing high and low range gears on a 2006 Land Cruiser. This video has proved to be extremely helpful. In order to make the high range gears work with the 100 series, you have to replace the input shaft with an input shaft from an 80 series t-case. We will see how it all goes back together but Cruiser Outfitters supplied the parts assuring us that it will work. Pretty cool stuff.
Awesome couple videos! I was able to follow you step by step installing trail gear low range gears as well as sumo high range gears from cruiser outfitters. My only hitch which was my fault, was installing the small impeller for the oil pump backwards. After getting everything assembled and on the test drive noticed the t case was whining excessively. I drained the fluid and noticed it wasn’t looking like new. Luckily I only had driven it a few short trips. Upon removing the t case once more (which took no time since now I knew WTH I was doing lol) I discovered the issue. To anyone doing the gears, they do whine. I called cruiser outfitters and they confirmed that is normal. But the more I drive the whining seems to be less and less now that the gears are breaking in. All in all a great alternative to ring and pinion gears.
If you put the sleeve in an oven at 350-450 ish degrees for a few minutes, use a leather glove and you can just drop the sleeve over the area with the pin without having to worry about aligning it while pressing it.
My 97 T case has the big “anti vibration” block in the side. Is this necessary ? I found an identical T-case and it dosent have the mounting holes for the vibration block
Hey OTRAMM thanks for the video. Just a quick question, at Min. 34:30, you install the clutch back on. All the teeth allow the clutch to be placed in any position or rotation. Does it matter if this was not clocked in the original position? Please let me know if you have this information. Thanks!!
If you're talking about the center diff lock motor, the shift rod needs to be in the same position it was when you removed the motor, usually unlocked.
Hi, I wanted some advice. Was wondering if you had heard of problems with 80 series over running when in low one/ low low. It is almost like it is not engaged. When in L1 I can hear the whine from the transfer case. If I don't hear it I know the old girl is gonna not go slow downhill. I thought it might be the aircon, which increaes the revs, but it still did it when not on. I then thought over heating in TC, but can't see how that would affect it. Could it be damaged cogs? Any other ideas. Bit of a mechanical novice. I did rebuild the swivel hubs though following your great video.
@@OTRAMM Shifter h-l and vice versa, is quite stiff at times so maybe it is popping out. I found going from 1-2-1 while in low puts it in 1 solidly. Maybe its popping into 2 not neutral as there is some resistance downhill, not total runaway. I will have a look at the bushings. Vehicle is 28 years old and some of the mechanics have not been very well looked after. Thanks for the quick reply. Love your videos.
So far it's worked out to whether or not the truck was also having lockers installed. If we have to go in to the axles to install lockers we've done axle gears at the same time. Trucks that already had lockers or weren't planning on getting them got transfer case gears. Transfer case gears are easier and faster to install than axle gears so that factors in as well.
Thanks, Glad you liked it. I'd have to double check to be sure but I think between pulling and reinstalling the transfer case and the gear install it's around 7.5 hours. A bunch of that is cleaning to make sure all of the metal shavings are gone. We usually do the input and output seals while it's apart and we check over the bearings and replace any suspect ones.
Quick question.... my 1995 80 series has about .25 to 1/2 inches of play when turning the front and rear drive shafts while in park. I hear a clunck sound in the transfer case. I just got the rig. U joints don't wiggle. Your thoughts please... and thank you for your time...
@@OTRAMM thank you for your response. I'm going to go through and check all fluids. I just got back from purchasing it in Seattle and drove it 1700 miles, no issues. Just concerned about the clunk when putting it in drive or reverse. Again, thank you.
Are you a martial artist. You seem to treat you hands very rough. You smack metal bars with your foreman’s. Punch timber with knuckles. Must me a secret ninja.
Great videos Mate! I'm about to change all the bearings, seals and convert the transfer to two wheel drive, (fixed rear spool), Question, where would you pull from on the cluster remove the front bearing on the centre diff assembly. Cheers Peter
Doing it with a puller rather than a press is tricky. There's not a real good place to grab. I've done it in the past with a cobbled together assortment of bearing splitters and a large puller. It wasn't fun though. It was sketchy enough that when I built my big press I made the gap in the bed big enough for an 80 low range gear to fit through.
In Venezuela FJ80 came with a 5 Speed manual transmition. If you buy all the components and ship them to the USA, is it legal to transform such a drive train. The early ones came carburated and later Fuel injected. I prefer manual for offroading?
Do you ever replace any of the bearings while you're in there? Just ordered my 3:1 kit and a sumo gears underdrive high range gear, and I'm trying to decide if I should go ahead and order some of the bearings to install while I'm in there.
So far we've lucked out and all of the bearings have been in good shape when we've done gears. I've done output bearings on trucks but it's never coincided with doing gears yet. We do change the output seals while we have the transfer case apart.
Awesome; thanks! I think I'll go ahead and order the input/output seals and bearings just due to high mileage and just replace the others if needed once I'm in there.
Since my Axles are the Volvo TGB 20, the axle is geared 7.56: 1 I want HF1A with as much overdrive as possible. On my J8 I drive HF2A and there I would also like more distance between low gear and high gear that must be overdrive at the same time.
I am about to the underdrive and reduction gears in a week or so, what are the must replace items? I'm guessing the input/output seals, is there anything else?
@@tombuckle9742 I've never actually paid attention to it like differential gears. I'm sure an oil change after a few hundred miles would be a good thing.
We've got a baleigh 10 ton that I use most of the time. I've also got a large 50 ton electric over hydraulic that I built for heavier duty pressing and bending sheet steel.
I have a 95 80 series and I'm a DIY mechanic. Your videos are invaluable.
I'm in the middle of installing high and low range gears on a 2006 Land Cruiser. This video has proved to be extremely helpful.
In order to make the high range gears work with the 100 series, you have to replace the input shaft with an input shaft from an 80 series t-case. We will see how it all goes back together but Cruiser Outfitters supplied the parts assuring us that it will work. Pretty cool stuff.
Awesome couple videos! I was able to follow you step by step installing trail gear low range gears as well as sumo high range gears from cruiser outfitters. My only hitch which was my fault, was installing the small impeller for the oil pump backwards. After getting everything assembled and on the test drive noticed the t case was whining excessively. I drained the fluid and noticed it wasn’t looking like new. Luckily I only had driven it a few short trips. Upon removing the t case once more (which took no time since now I knew WTH I was doing lol) I discovered the issue.
To anyone doing the gears, they do whine. I called cruiser outfitters and they confirmed that is normal. But the more I drive the whining seems to be less and less now that the gears are breaking in. All in all a great alternative to ring and pinion gears.
If you put the sleeve in an oven at 350-450 ish degrees for a few minutes, use a leather glove and you can just drop the sleeve over the area with the pin without having to worry about aligning it while pressing it.
Ah good call. I should have thought of that. That's how I do ring gears.
Great video! Incredibly valuable information. Thank you for sharing.
Do you have the part number for the 2jaw puller that you used?
Watched this 87 times now while doing my own low range geaars
Hey mate what size puller can I get away with to pull the gear off ? Trying to track down something in Australia
Ryan cant you leave a link to parts and materials you used? its good for you if you follow.
There's not a link to them.
My 97 T case has the big “anti vibration” block in the side. Is this necessary ? I found an identical T-case and it dosent have the mounting holes for the vibration block
I'm pretty sure it's just a noise dampener and not needed. I don't have it on my truck.
Hey OTRAMM thanks for the video. Just a quick question, at Min. 34:30, you install the clutch back on. All the teeth allow the clutch to be placed in any position or rotation. Does it matter if this was not clocked in the original position? Please let me know if you have this information. Thanks!!
If you're talking about the center diff lock motor, the shift rod needs to be in the same position it was when you removed the motor, usually unlocked.
Hi, I wanted some advice. Was wondering if you had heard of problems with 80 series over running when in low one/ low low. It is almost like it is not engaged. When in L1 I can hear the whine from the transfer case. If I don't hear it I know the old girl is gonna not go slow downhill. I thought it might be the aircon, which increaes the revs, but it still did it when not on. I then thought over heating in TC, but can't see how that would affect it. Could it be damaged cogs? Any other ideas. Bit of a mechanical novice. I did rebuild the swivel hubs though following your great video.
Are you sure it's staying in gear? I've seen worn shifter mount bushings let them pop out of gear in to neutral in the t-case.
@@OTRAMM Shifter h-l and vice versa, is quite stiff at times so maybe it is popping out. I found going from 1-2-1 while in low puts it in 1 solidly. Maybe its popping into 2 not neutral as there is some resistance downhill, not total runaway. I will have a look at the bushings. Vehicle is 28 years old and some of the mechanics have not been very well looked after. Thanks for the quick reply. Love your videos.
Great video. How do you decide between changing the transfer case gears or changing the rear end/front end axle gears?
So far it's worked out to whether or not the truck was also having lockers installed. If we have to go in to the axles to install lockers we've done axle gears at the same time. Trucks that already had lockers or weren't planning on getting them got transfer case gears. Transfer case gears are easier and faster to install than axle gears so that factors in as well.
Great Video - Whats the shop time to have the High and Low gears done? What else would you do while the T Case is on the bench?
Thanks, Glad you liked it. I'd have to double check to be sure but I think between pulling and reinstalling the transfer case and the gear install it's around 7.5 hours. A bunch of that is cleaning to make sure all of the metal shavings are gone. We usually do the input and output seals while it's apart and we check over the bearings and replace any suspect ones.
Quick question.... my 1995 80 series has about .25 to 1/2 inches of play when turning the front and rear drive shafts while in park. I hear a clunck sound in the transfer case. I just got the rig. U joints don't wiggle. Your thoughts please... and thank you for your time...
Without seeing it in person it's hard to tell. A bit of rotation is normal since there's backlash between all of the gears.
@@OTRAMM thank you for your response. I'm going to go through and check all fluids. I just got back from purchasing it in Seattle and drove it 1700 miles, no issues. Just concerned about the clunk when putting it in drive or reverse. Again, thank you.
Are you a martial artist. You seem to treat you hands very rough. You smack metal bars with your foreman’s. Punch timber with knuckles. Must me a secret ninja.
Great videos Mate! I'm about to change all the bearings, seals and convert the transfer to two wheel drive, (fixed rear spool), Question, where would you pull from on the cluster remove the front bearing on the centre diff assembly.
Cheers Peter
Doing it with a puller rather than a press is tricky. There's not a real good place to grab. I've done it in the past with a cobbled together assortment of bearing splitters and a large puller. It wasn't fun though. It was sketchy enough that when I built my big press I made the gap in the bed big enough for an 80 low range gear to fit through.
In Venezuela FJ80 came with a 5 Speed manual transmition. If you buy all the components and ship them to the USA, is it legal to transform such a drive train. The early ones came carburated and later Fuel injected. I prefer manual for offroading?
I don't think swapping the transmission would be illegal, but I don't know for sure.
Do you ever replace any of the bearings while you're in there? Just ordered my 3:1 kit and a sumo gears underdrive high range gear, and I'm trying to decide if I should go ahead and order some of the bearings to install while I'm in there.
So far we've lucked out and all of the bearings have been in good shape when we've done gears. I've done output bearings on trucks but it's never coincided with doing gears yet. We do change the output seals while we have the transfer case apart.
Awesome; thanks! I think I'll go ahead and order the input/output seals and bearings just due to high mileage and just replace the others if needed once I'm in there.
Since my Axles are the Volvo TGB 20, the axle is geared 7.56: 1
I want HF1A with as much overdrive as possible.
On my J8 I drive HF2A and there I would also like more distance between low gear and high gear that must be overdrive at the same time.
can this be done with the t-case still in truck?
Yes, but it is much easier with it out
I am about to the underdrive and reduction gears in a week or so, what are the must replace items? I'm guessing the input/output seals, is there anything else?
Input and output seals. The rear output bearing is fairly common to be a bit worn. That's all we usually see as needing replacement.
@@OTRAMM cheers mate. is there a wear in period/mileage on a set of new gears? oil change after a certain distance?
@@tombuckle9742 I've never actually paid attention to it like differential gears. I'm sure an oil change after a few hundred miles would be a good thing.
OTRAMM not a worry thank you!
30:00 where did you get that puller?????
Are the high range gears overdrive or underdrive? And is it worth doing overdrive gears to lower rpm when sitting on 100kmphr
These were under drive. You can get them both ways though. I've never done the over drive gears.
What the benefit of doing an underdrive over the overdrive gears
@@JacobBalmer more low end torque. And compensating for larger tires.
They're for two different purposes. They don't compare like that. You use the one that solves the problem you're having.
@OTRAMM they also get a lot more noiser just under the driver's seat when the high range become an under drive gear.
Is this for a manual transmission or automatic? Or is it for both?
Thanks for such informative videos. Please keep making content like this
These went behind an automatic. We didn't get manuals here so I'm not sure if they're the same. I think they are.
What press are you using? Looks like Baileigh?
We've got a baleigh 10 ton that I use most of the time. I've also got a large 50 ton electric over hydraulic that I built for heavier duty pressing and bending sheet steel.
Mine only had one shim on each side is that right?
I've seen them with single thick shims before.
i have ordered the sumo gears for my landcruiser 100 series 4.2 TD Turbo. Is the same procedure right?
I think so, but I'm not sure. We didn't get the TD versions here.
is this the 80 in this video missing an upper control arm?
Not that I know of. It's got aftermarket upper arms for the slinky kit.
Where do I buy the gears
Cruiser Outfitters or Cruiser Brothers