Thats good to hear, the one thing I have always taught my apprentices, and something you could just bear in mind is this - “all machines are dumb, they have two tasks in life, one is making chips, the other is maiming or killing the operator, both are hazardous to your health.” remember this and you will have a good time in your workshop. regards
Lovely work. It's beyond me as to why anyone would give this a thumbs down, maybe jealousy. I have the same issue with a couple of mine that don't fit correctly. Will put them on the SG when time permits.
Blue on You ;) Fine show 💙. Still translating lingo as Grade 8 was 76' and metal class was a Grinding B+ was a pass. Love the work and Explanations just Ducky. TTL hope the best 4ya.
Excellent video. You could use the chamfer block for surface grinders created by Tom Lipton over at Oxtools and I have a take on it on my channel as well. Your surface grinder is interesting. I throws chips to the right and spins counter clockwise. I haven't seen that before . Is it right hand drive?
Dudley Toolwright I must admit that after using a J&S this one took some getting used to. It's an Eagle with suds pump, I saw it in the corner of a second hand machine shop, made an offer and he accepted. It's still 3 phase and works well, but it really needs the table resetting by a micron or two because there is a shadow on the outboard side.
I enjoy watching your work thank you. I have a Dickson tool holder on my Emco but I cant see myself making any new ones as I don't have the lovely range of gear you have, a flat bed grinder wow wouldn't that be nice. Pleasure watch somebody with obvious experience and expertise.
@@campbellmorrison8540 a long time ago(probably just before I was born), many things were made using a forge, hammer and a file/scraper. just look at may things Brunell, Watt or Eddison had presided over.
Hi, thank you for your comments, I am glad that you are inspired, I hope to inspire many. It would be even nicer if the inspiration was shared by the very young. thanks again for watching. regards.
Another cracking video Paul, thoroughly enjoyed it. I don't suffer from tool envy (much), but I am impressed by how much wet work you do. I work in my front room so can't use flood coolant, best I can do is a little squeezy bottle now and then. Like a lot of things, it is a compromise, but a manageable one.
Hi, thanks for watching. A friend of mine many years ago did the same, only, he had several machines in his front room because he hadn’t a garage. He made some nice stuff. Regards
Nice work, always worth the extra to make them in quantity . Its better and in the long run to do it. Setups are usually the hardest part. Yup enjoying your channel.
A hellish task. Just one slight mistake and all that work goes down the pan. I now feel better that I forked out about £75+vat apiece for mine. Well done, by the way.
Thanks for posting this enjoyable video, you made a superb job. Totally understand why you did this as even the original Dickson have a dubious finish/fit at times. Don't have the skill to pull that off just yet, nor the inclination to spend the time on a knock off Dixon type. As I am working with a turn of the century Drummond lathe and unhappy with the Dixon's rigidity, thinking of returning to the original forged lump the manufacturer supplied. Hoping a small height adjustment addition to the slide will preclude shimming and speed things up when changing tools. It won't involve drilling or scarring the unmolested lathe which could easily be put back to original spec, despite being electric now 😮 Take it easy.
Thanks for your comment Sam. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. The most complicated part of the video was making the 45deg setting tool, but the video wasn’t about that so I didn’t include too much about that. I’ve heard about Drumond Machine tools but I’ve not worked on any. Good luck with keeping that as original as possible.
Very nice. You have a new sub plus I've got to undertake the same job soon so I'll borrow some of you're ideas.... only thing I don't have is a surface grinder...😢 but I have a shaper....😄
Hi and thank you for subscribing. The shaper is just as good and you can use a little very fine emery cloth or a precision stone to make things look nicely ground(no one will notice).
If I tried this myself, I'd screw up somewhere towards the end and have an expensive bit of scrap metal to show for all the work. Any chance of a video on how your surface plate is put together and where you sourced the granite tiles from please?
I've been asked a few times about this and I might have to make a video on this subject, but it will not be an accurate piece of equipment, that can be guaranteed or certified, I can't use mine for that. I have a smaller cast iron one that I can use for gauging and more accurate work. The concrete part is made from pavement (sidewalk) slabs and the tiles are from a kitchen tile supplier, then they are bonded together. regards
Neat work displaying a disciplined approach to repeating all those tasks 12x over - or rather more times with all those chamfered edges ! You have invested more in your cutting tools than many home workers might be inclined to do. Has the use of semi-synthetic coolant affected the paintwork of any of your machines?
Hi, thanks for watching and for your comments. The coolant has not yet affected any of my machines. I say yet, because those that have had experience of coolant knows that it’s a good paint stripper. The coolant on the lathe and mill is a generic coolant, but in the grinder is specific for grinding and this can be a dangerous bacteria medium unless it is constantly airated, Ive fitted air pumps they are running 24/7 in both tanks.
I use the same approach to thereading, hand turning the chuck. Good blocks make a big difference. You have very nice workshop, well fettled as they say. I've been able to use bigger tools in my friends workshop in sheffield. He has a bigger surface grinder, a Bridgeport Mill, a Do-All bandsaw and lots of grinding and polishing kit. My own in Hampshire is very modest compared to yours.
Well I’m sure everyone has heard the saying ‘size doesn’t matter’ and it doesn’t. Ok I suffer from range anxiety when it comes to wheeling stuff the length of my workshop. But that’s the trick making the best of what you’ve got. In my woodwork section it is 4 x 2 metres yet I can cut full 8x4 sheets of ply on my table saw, hows that I hear you ask, wheels...! Everything is on wheels except for the metal machines they are placed around the outside walls out of the way. That means my wood shop can be 4 x 12 meters. My first turning job I ever did at home was on my pedestal drill using it like an up ended drill. Never looked back.
I enjoyed this as well as your others. Couple questions... Did you consider hardening them, maybe a case harden to reduce scratches? And the other related question is do you ever cold-blue your parts? Just curious. Some people are fanatical about it, me personally? As long as it works, I'm all good. I enjoy your videos very much.
Hi, I didn't consider hardening them, I could case harden them I suppose, but I'll probably leave them as they are. I have never cold blued anything, I might do it one day. cheers
Hi, i’m not sure what the material was I used, it machined quite well so i believe that it was medium carbon steel, they came to me as off cuts. I have not hardened them. Regards
Great job. I'm about to make my first tool holders. I'm curious how you find center in the V to cut the square slot using the shaper (@6:41). Thank for sharing. It's very inspiring. EDIT - Also, would you recommend any heat-treating for these? Thanks again.
Hi, I didn’t have to find the centre I simply used a pattern and copied that and swapped the tool holder for a work piece. my machine is a small machine and it wouldn’t bend a bit of toffee if I tried. but, I would recommend hardening and then tempering for a larger and more capable machine. Regards
Great work. There's a fair bit of machining in making them. I've got a dickson on my lathe too. Do you know what the purpose of the flange on the locking cam is? Why doesn't the height nut sit straight on the main toolpost body? The flange slides beneath and i find, makes repeatability quite hard. Thinking about getting rid of it. Thanks
Hi, to be honest, I’ve never had to bother too much with that. However, since you asked. The locking cam has two functions, one, the top cutaway flange, is a gateway to make sure the cam lock is in the fully open position before the toolholder is inserted, after all when the tool holder is in place you don't want it to vibrate, or worse still get pulled out. The second full flange is to prevent the tool from dropping right down and to provide a repeatable stop so that tools, that are set, always drop to the same place, repeatedly, sometimes, due to mismatch, the catch ring on the tool often misses it, and can be a pain to use. it’s still way better than taking tools out of the tool post and resetting them every time. But dickson tools have disadvantages, that is they have considerable overhang, this can cause tool vibration especially while trepaning or perting off. hope this helped.
@@Thesheddweller ok thanks. I get it about the top flange, but I'm just not certain about the bottom one. As soon as the thickness of that flange is not consistent and parallel, like on mine, the toolholder starts to get clamped in position at a particular height, then the effective wedge shape of that flange will want to change the height in inconsistent ways. Add to this that pieces of swarf easily get pulled into this moving part. I'm not sure why the toolholder doesn't just sit on the main block, which never moves. Most other qctp designs have this feature, so I'm just confused what the benefit of having it over not having it. Anyway, thanks for the reply
Very impressive work & videos Paul, I've just subscribed. Your knurling tool has me intrigued, do you know its Maker or what "name" I should do a Google search for? regards Colin
Hi Colin, thanks for your subscription and comments, alas I don’t know what the make or model is I bought it at an open air junk market. one thing I do know is that it isn’t a one off, because a subscriber has told me he has one and he uses it a lot. sorry I can’t give you any more info on it. cheers
Hi Alex Y, I believe the material was Cold drawn steel. I can’t be more specific than that because they were given to me. I did consider heat treatment, but I’ve used them as is and I’ve had no issues. hope this helps.
Oh yes, I know I’m partway through my next video, it includes a standard 60deg dovetail and, an offset dovetail, it didnt start off as an offset dovetail, I just tried it out to see what would happen part way through the video.
Like an aloris style? Theyre actually pretty easy to make, really all square cuts, no complex setup, just make sure the floor of the slot is a little lower with the endmill before you go in with the dovetail cutter so its not cutting on the floor while taking the dovetail cut. Also, tram your vise and head like you mean it.
With regards to having to dress the grinding wheel to get a sharp corner in the tool slot; quite a lot of toolholders I've seen have a small relief cut (like the 45° slots have) in the bottom corner of the tool slot so there's no possibility of a radius in the corner.
Meme Master, hi, thanks for your comment. The only tool holders that I had ever used with a swarf relief groove where those that rotated. All the kenametal boring tool holders had a small radius in the inside corners and the tool it’s self had a slightly larger chamfer on each corner. The pressure created on a fourteen foot diameter twin ram boring machine would break a tool holder easier if it had a small recessed relief. Come to think of it I don’t remember seeing them on the smaller 36” borer tool holders.. but I can see why it would be advantageous on a small home lathe..
Hi, thanks for watching. I also have a woodwork section in my workshop 20thou in wood is the difference between a good fit and a sloppy fit. 2thou in metal is the same thing. Regards.
Hi, thanks for watching. yes it was a lot of work for some spare tool holders that only cost £20 each…! However, I’m in posesion of twelve well fitting tool holders that cost me about £40 to make, and I got to show lots of people how I did it and thats got to be a good ain't it.
Hi, Miguel. I'm probably the last person you should ask about material performance, but I would say that If I had a choice of material, I would buy medium carbon steel like F-114 1045 so that if I wanted to harden it for this job, I would probably hold the hardness to a maximum 50 to 55 Rockwell, I do believe F-114 is suitable for this... but don't quote me on that. Regards
probably a stupid question but i have a warco WM290V with the Milling machine attachment would it be in your opinion for me also check everything is true ? my problem is sometimes the tool block or tool post moves depending on the cut im doing no matter how much i tighten it down , so i will check if its flat maybe you have had the same problem ? thank you
Hi, i don't know much about the wm290v, I belive it has an extra auxillary drive shaft. Anyway the compound slide on my machine is a big problem and i would suspect your machine would have the same issue. The compound slide effectively sits on a large washer held in place with 4 bolts in-turn held to the cross slide with 2 bolts over a slim locking plate, that combination does highlight a stability problem. you may want to look at that. regards
@@Thesheddweller i have seen others here making a 4 bolt plate but the problem of the big swivel washer may still be a problem clamping the tool table from moving as its winter i will have a look at modifying something in summer . another idea was told to drill a hole to put a pin in the tool block
Witam . Dlaczego zakreślałeś na każdej sztuce gdzie ma być otwór , przecież na frezarce ustawiasz opór i każda następną sztuka powinna być taka sama . Reszta ok
@@Thesheddweller just curious. My great uncle owned a tool and gauge company in Detroit. His name was Freddy Dickson and his companies name was Dickson Tool and Gauge.
The Dickson tool post and tool holder is a miserable design, one that no one should copy. If you wish to make your own, choose a dove tail type with the male dovetail on the tool post, female on the tool holder. For clamping the tool holder, arrange a finger clamp that pushes on the inside of the rear dovetail angled surface. This pulls the tool holder tightly against the front dovetail surfaces, making for a superbly rigid assembly.
@@Thesheddweller Thank you for your civil reply. I would have expected you to curse me six days to Sunday for my opinion:-)) To make locators with redundancy is always problematic; you yourself stated that the commercial Dickson tool holders were not a very good fit on the commercial Dickson tool post. This would have driven me to drink! You will notice that practically all modern lathes have one prismatic guide only for the carriage; a second such guide at the rear would be completely redundant; yet one American lathe maker persisted with this unnecessary practice. I imagine that considerable handwork by scraping was necessary to fit those carriages to their respective lathe beds. On heavy planers the double Vee guides are used to resist the heavy side loading on the table, but this is an exception. In the mid 1990's I designed and built a QCTP and 2 dozen tool holders using the dovetail principle. I learned very quickly to always use the same dovetail cutter for tool holders with that tool post, because commercially available dove tail cutters have an unacceptable variance on that 60 degree angle! Were I to do this again I would purchase a good quality dove tail tool post (NOT the pump style!) plus a few tool holders, and make the rest of the tool holders myself to suit the various purposes. I'd then take the QCTP to the tooling vendor and select a dove tail cutter that fitted the tool post's dove tail as accurately as possible. Myself I sharpened a dove tail cutter so that the angle matched my tool post's angle. With the female dove tail on the tool holder it is very easy to ensure that the tool holders are sufficiently alike such that the clamping lever winds up very closely in the same position with the different tool holders.
@@BasementEngineer I agree with your sentiment regarding the dovetail and rearward locking system. but if I could afford it I would have the original four position brick with 1 tool holder fitted and the rest spare. The tool holder would be the drop in cam lock cartridge insert holder that I used to use, before I retired. In a boring machine or on a lathe and sometimes the old NCs. One cartridge holder could be loaded with any number of left right or neutral position cartridges with whatever insert, including internal, external, trepanning, parting, threading,... 12, 16 and 19mm inserts whatever you want really, all off one cartridge holder held in the tool brick. I had some of the cartridges re-machined to hold very small profiled carbide inserts as well. However, deep boring was always done using a more dedicated tool. I also used a twenty meter long planer re-purposed to a four cutter milling machine, and yes the vee slides on them were big enough to need climbing ropes to get over them. In truth with these old or cheep home workshop machines, a repeatable indexing system is not worth the money beyond saving time with setting up for common used tools. Yeah some people might feel justified with scratching your eyes out for an honest comment, I've worked with many good engineers in my time and they all had a valid arguments, but the boss had the best. Regards. P.S. who said I wasn't driven to drink... 😉
what . Did you do with the one's you truth unusable. or to big . I don't mind taking them of your hands.? as I intend to builds me A holder. & could do with a set to work with , as the of no ues to you. Send them to me at 52 .weald-stone Woodside Telford & Wrekin England I will Mack use of them Les. ? i won't insult you by offering you money for an inferior product , But I can put them to ues send them. [ Me thank you] it called scrounging son .
Hi Les, Im afraid they weren’t that bad that I didn’t want to use them, I use them for my tool swops and roughing cuts. sorry… hey, thanks for watching.
Wow is just not enough to describe this well made video and finished product. Thank you for taking the time to show the steps to doing this job.
Hi, thanks for your very kind comments.
You are very skilled and experience machinist. I love what ever you do.
Thank you. Cheers
Excellent job and very nice to have holders that fit the tool post properly. That grinder really puts the cherry on top. Thumbs up.
hi, thanks for your comments.
Individuals like yourself are an oasis of knowledge and rarer than chicken's milk, thank you
velosapien Hi, thanks for watching, ..... Chickens milk, lol.
So glad I found your channel. I’m new to machining. My shop is equipped and I am ready to learn. Thanks again
Thats good to hear, the one thing I have always taught my apprentices, and something you could just bear in mind is this - “all machines are dumb, they have two tasks in life, one is making chips, the other is maiming or killing the operator, both are hazardous to your health.” remember this and you will have a good time in your workshop. regards
That is a challenging job. You clearly have the chops for it. This is a perfect wire edm job though if only you had one.
ClayZ If I did have an EDM I'd be doing more than a few simple tools. Thanks for watching.
Lovely work. It's beyond me as to why anyone would give this a thumbs down, maybe jealousy. I have the same issue with a couple of mine that don't fit correctly. Will put them on the SG when time permits.
Hi, thanks for your comments.
hello paul i just started machining i learn a lot from you thank you
Hi, I hope you enjoy making things.
If there is one tip I could give you, it would be this, "never work on any machine without safety glasses”.
Blue on You ;) Fine show 💙.
Still translating lingo as Grade 8 was 76' and metal class was a Grinding B+ was a pass. Love the work and Explanations just Ducky.
TTL hope the best 4ya.
Cheers.
Brilliant work, mate.
Thanks pal.
Excellent video. You could use the chamfer block for surface grinders created by Tom Lipton over at Oxtools and I have a take on it on my channel as well. Your surface grinder is interesting. I throws chips to the right and spins counter clockwise. I haven't seen that before . Is it right hand drive?
Dudley Toolwright I must admit that after using a J&S this one took some getting used to. It's an Eagle with suds pump, I saw it in the corner of a second hand machine shop, made an offer and he accepted. It's still 3 phase and works well, but it really needs the table resetting by a micron or two because there is a shadow on the outboard side.
Another good video, enjoying your channel, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching, thanks for your comments
Just found you channel Paul! Enjoying the videos, thanks.
Hi Mark, thanks for your comment. plenty more to come..
I enjoy watching your work thank you. I have a Dickson tool holder on my Emco but I cant see myself making any new ones as I don't have the lovely range of gear you have, a flat bed grinder wow wouldn't that be nice. Pleasure watch somebody with obvious experience and expertise.
Hi, thanks for watching. You don’t need a grinder, but using a bit of ingenuity you can do everything with a mill or a lathe.
@@Thesheddweller I do have my Dremel setup in the lathe, mostly for grinding rubber pinch rollers but its ok for very small metal grinding jobs
@@campbellmorrison8540 a long time ago(probably just before I was born), many things were made using a forge, hammer and a file/scraper. just look at may things Brunell, Watt or Eddison had presided over.
Good job! I'd like to take 5 of them for my lathe!
Thanks for watching..
Thanks Paul , May God Bless you so much. i have been inspired
Hi, thank you for your comments, I am glad that you are inspired, I hope to inspire many. It would be even nicer if the inspiration was shared by the very young. thanks again for watching.
regards.
Another cracking video Paul, thoroughly enjoyed it. I don't suffer from tool envy (much), but I am impressed by how much wet work you do. I work in my front room so can't use flood coolant, best I can do is a little squeezy bottle now and then. Like a lot of things, it is a compromise, but a manageable one.
Hi, thanks for watching. A friend of mine many years ago did the same, only, he had several machines in his front room because he hadn’t a garage. He made some nice stuff. Regards
Beautiful work!! I have made some holders for 1.5" tools and it is not a small job!
Fluffy Zyox Hi, thanks for your comments.
been meaning to make some extra for my Dickson glad i watched this ..... thanks for the info
Hi, you’re welcome
Nice work, always worth the extra to make them in quantity . Its better and in the long run to do it. Setups are usually the hardest part. Yup enjoying your channel.
Hi Silverbullet, thank you for your very kind comments. Regards
Thanks for sharing
You're welcome, Thanks for watching.
very very good video..thanks for your time
Hi, thanks for watching.
Paul, just found your channel, and subbed. Lots of good ideas and skills, thanks. Jason
Hi Jason, thank you for subscribing and for your kind comments.
A hellish task. Just one slight mistake and all that work goes down the pan. I now feel better that I forked out about £75+vat apiece for mine. Well done, by the way.
Hi, thanks for your comments.
Beautiful job. We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Hi Jon, thanks.
Thanks for posting this enjoyable video, you made a superb job. Totally understand why you did this as even the original Dickson have a dubious finish/fit at times.
Don't have the skill to pull that off just yet, nor the inclination to spend the time on a knock off Dixon type.
As I am working with a turn of the century Drummond lathe and unhappy with the Dixon's rigidity, thinking of returning to the original forged lump the manufacturer supplied.
Hoping a small height adjustment addition to the slide will preclude shimming and speed things up when changing tools. It won't involve drilling or scarring the unmolested lathe which could easily be put back to original spec, despite being electric now 😮
Take it easy.
Thanks for your comment Sam. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. The most complicated part of the video was making the 45deg setting tool, but the video wasn’t about that so I didn’t include too much about that.
I’ve heard about Drumond Machine tools but I’ve not worked on any. Good luck with keeping that as original as possible.
I hope to use your technique to build some for my Chinese copy tool post
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching
Nice build. I enjoyed very much.
hi, thank you for your comment. I have viewed your channels and i enjoy watching them, very entertaining.
Very nice. You have a new sub plus I've got to undertake the same job soon so I'll borrow some of you're ideas.... only thing I don't have is a surface grinder...😢 but I have a shaper....😄
Hi and thank you for subscribing. The shaper is just as good and you can use a little very fine emery cloth or a precision stone to make things look nicely ground(no one will notice).
If I tried this myself, I'd screw up somewhere towards the end and have an expensive bit of scrap metal to show for all the work.
Any chance of a video on how your surface plate is put together and where you sourced the granite tiles from please?
I've been asked a few times about this and I might have to make a video on this subject, but it will not be an accurate piece of equipment, that can be guaranteed or certified, I can't use mine for that. I have a smaller cast iron one that I can use for gauging and more accurate work.
The concrete part is made from pavement (sidewalk) slabs and the tiles are from a kitchen tile supplier, then they are bonded together. regards
Neat work displaying a disciplined approach to repeating all those tasks 12x over - or rather more times with all those chamfered edges ! You have invested more in your cutting tools than many home workers might be inclined to do.
Has the use of semi-synthetic coolant affected the paintwork of any of your machines?
Hi, thanks for watching and for your comments. The coolant has not yet affected any of my machines. I say yet, because those that have had experience of coolant knows that it’s a good paint stripper. The coolant on the lathe and mill is a generic coolant, but in the grinder is specific for grinding and this can be a dangerous bacteria medium unless it is constantly airated, Ive fitted air pumps they are running 24/7 in both tanks.
I use the same approach to thereading, hand turning the chuck. Good blocks make a big difference. You have very nice workshop, well fettled as they say. I've been able to use bigger tools in my friends workshop in sheffield. He has a bigger surface grinder, a Bridgeport Mill, a Do-All bandsaw and lots of grinding and polishing kit. My own in Hampshire is very modest compared to yours.
Well I’m sure everyone has heard the saying ‘size doesn’t matter’ and it doesn’t. Ok I suffer from range anxiety when it comes to wheeling stuff the length of my workshop. But that’s the trick making the best of what you’ve got. In my woodwork section it is 4 x 2 metres yet I can cut full 8x4 sheets of ply on my table saw, hows that I hear you ask, wheels...! Everything is on wheels except for the metal machines they are placed around the outside walls out of the way. That means my wood shop can be 4 x 12 meters. My first turning job I ever did at home was on my pedestal drill using it like an up ended drill.
Never looked back.
I ment up ended lathe..😂
I enjoyed this as well as your others. Couple questions... Did you consider hardening them, maybe a case harden to reduce scratches? And the other related question is do you ever cold-blue your parts? Just curious. Some people are fanatical about it, me personally? As long as it works, I'm all good. I enjoy your videos very much.
Hi, I didn't consider hardening them, I could case harden them I suppose, but I'll probably leave them as they are. I have never cold blued anything, I might do it one day. cheers
Good job, it’s nice to see making this. Did you hardened it, what’s the material used.
Hi, i’m not sure what the material was I used, it machined quite well so i believe that it was medium carbon steel, they came to me as off cuts. I have not hardened them. Regards
Great job
Hi thanks. cheers
Great job. I'm about to make my first tool holders. I'm curious how you find center in the V to cut the square slot using the shaper (@6:41). Thank for sharing. It's very inspiring. EDIT - Also, would you recommend any heat-treating for these? Thanks again.
Hi, I didn’t have to find the centre I simply used a pattern and copied that and swapped the tool holder for a work piece. my machine is a small machine and it wouldn’t bend a bit of toffee if I tried. but, I would recommend hardening and then tempering for a larger and more capable machine.
Regards
Great work. There's a fair bit of machining in making them. I've got a dickson on my lathe too. Do you know what the purpose of the flange on the locking cam is? Why doesn't the height nut sit straight on the main toolpost body? The flange slides beneath and i find, makes repeatability quite hard. Thinking about getting rid of it. Thanks
Hi, to be honest, I’ve never had to bother too much with that. However, since you asked. The locking cam has two functions, one, the top cutaway flange, is a gateway to make sure the cam lock is in the fully open position before the toolholder is inserted, after all when the tool holder is in place you don't want it to vibrate, or worse still get pulled out. The second full flange is to prevent the tool from dropping right down and to provide a repeatable stop so that tools, that are set, always drop to the same place, repeatedly, sometimes, due to mismatch, the catch ring on the tool often misses it, and can be a pain to use. it’s still way better than taking tools out of the tool post and resetting them every time. But dickson tools have disadvantages, that is they have considerable overhang, this can cause tool vibration especially while trepaning or perting off. hope this helped.
@@Thesheddweller ok thanks. I get it about the top flange, but I'm just not certain about the bottom one. As soon as the thickness of that flange is not consistent and parallel, like on mine, the toolholder starts to get clamped in position at a particular height, then the effective wedge shape of that flange will want to change the height in inconsistent ways. Add to this that pieces of swarf easily get pulled into this moving part. I'm not sure why the toolholder doesn't just sit on the main block, which never moves. Most other qctp designs have this feature, so I'm just confused what the benefit of having it over not having it. Anyway, thanks for the reply
@@lawmate so it’s not a faulty one then…?
Beautiful work! just subscribed
Thank you for watching and thanks for subscribing.
Great job! Thoroughly enjoyed the video. Where you not tempted to make a new rorating tool holder while you where there?
Hi, Thanks for watching.
Excellent
thank you for watching.
..Deary me !.. That was a lot of work,.. Good job ,.. :o)
Hi thank you for your comments.
Very impressive work & videos Paul, I've just subscribed.
Your knurling tool has me intrigued, do you know its Maker or what "name" I should do a Google search for?
regards Colin
Hi Colin, thanks for your subscription and comments, alas I don’t know what the make or model is I bought it at an open air junk market. one thing I do know is that it isn’t a one off, because a subscriber has told me he has one and he uses it a lot.
sorry I can’t give you any more info on it. cheers
@@Thesheddweller Thanks Paul, I'll keep a look out for one.
Superb engineering, 😉👍🛠🔩
Hi, thank you. Regards.
Very neat
cheers
Very nice job! Which steel was used to make these? Any heat treatment?
Hi Alex Y, I believe the material was Cold drawn steel. I can’t be more specific than that because they were given to me. I did consider heat treatment, but I’ve used them as is and I’ve had no issues. hope this helps.
My tool holders have the dove tail design. A little more of a pain to make.
Oh yes, I know I’m partway through my next video, it includes a standard 60deg dovetail and, an offset dovetail, it didnt start off as an offset dovetail, I just tried it out to see what would happen part way through the video.
Like an aloris style? Theyre actually pretty easy to make, really all square cuts, no complex setup, just make sure the floor of the slot is a little lower with the endmill before you go in with the dovetail cutter so its not cutting on the floor while taking the dovetail cut. Also, tram your vise and head like you mean it.
With regards to having to dress the grinding wheel to get a sharp corner in the tool slot; quite a lot of toolholders I've seen have a small relief cut (like the 45° slots have) in the bottom corner of the tool slot so there's no possibility of a radius in the corner.
Meme Master, hi, thanks for your comment. The only tool holders that I had ever used with a swarf relief groove where those that rotated. All the kenametal boring tool holders had a small radius in the inside corners and the tool it’s self had a slightly larger chamfer on each corner. The pressure created on a fourteen foot diameter twin ram boring machine would break a tool holder easier if it had a small recessed relief. Come to think of it I don’t remember seeing them on the smaller 36” borer tool holders..
but I can see why it would be advantageous on a small home lathe..
As a woodworker I'd tell all you fastidious machine guys to lighten up a thousandth or two.
Hi, thanks for watching. I also have a woodwork section in my workshop 20thou in wood is the difference between a good fit and a sloppy fit. 2thou in metal is the same thing. Regards.
seems like a lot of effort for some cheap on the shelf
Hi, thanks for watching. yes it was a lot of work for some spare tool holders that only cost £20 each…! However, I’m in posesion of twelve well fitting tool holders that cost me about £40 to make, and I got to show lots of people how I did it and thats got to be a good ain't it.
What steel do you recommend? Is the F-114 worth it? Thank you very much.
Hi, Miguel. I'm probably the last person you should ask about material performance, but I would say that If I had a choice of material, I would buy medium carbon steel like F-114 1045 so that if I wanted to harden it for this job, I would probably hold the hardness to a maximum 50 to 55 Rockwell, I do believe F-114 is suitable for this... but don't quote me on that. Regards
What steel were those bar ends??
Andy Taylor Hi, thanks for watching, I believe the steel offcuts were low or medium carbon steel.
probably a stupid question but i have a warco WM290V with the Milling machine attachment would it be in your opinion for me also check everything is true ? my problem is sometimes the tool block or tool post moves depending on the cut im doing no matter how much i tighten it down , so i will check if its flat maybe you have had the same problem ? thank you
Hi, i don't know much about the wm290v, I belive it has an extra auxillary drive shaft. Anyway the compound slide on my machine is a big problem and i would suspect your machine would have the same issue. The compound slide effectively sits on a large washer held in place with 4 bolts in-turn held to the cross slide with 2 bolts over a slim locking plate, that combination does highlight a stability problem. you may want to look at that. regards
@@Thesheddweller i have seen others here making a 4 bolt plate but the problem of the big swivel washer may still be a problem clamping the tool table from moving as its winter i will have a look at modifying something in summer . another idea was told to drill a hole to put a pin in the tool block
@@creed6.549 my cross slide top surface had one shallow location hole in it and i don't see any reason why yours shouldn't...
👍👌
Thank you for your comments..
It seems like the tool post is out of spec. I would have trued that up.
What kind of steel did you use to build the tool holder?
Hi, to be honest I don’t know what the material was I think is was a basic black hot rolled steel.
It was given to me as offcuts.
Witam . Dlaczego zakreślałeś na każdej sztuce gdzie ma być otwór , przecież na frezarce ustawiasz opór i każda następną sztuka powinna być taka sama . Reszta ok
Witam, zaznaczyłem każdy otwór do ustawienia pod wiertarkę kolumnową, lubię używać jak najwięcej różnych narzędzi.
@@Thesheddweller dzięki za odpowiedź super robota
Nothing like a big pile of tool holders.
Hi, i know, I still need more… lots more
I see shaper and surface grinder and stop watching. I don't have those things.
Hi, thats fine, thanks for looking anyway. cheers.
Idk if this would be the proper way, but I would have milled them all in one long bar. Then cut them in the saw so they would all be identical
That is true. but, I explained in the video that these blocks where offcuts from a scrap bin. regards
Why is it called Dickson?
Hi. A good question....🤔, i don't know , why is it called a Dickson??. 😁
@@Thesheddweller just curious. My great uncle owned a tool and gauge company in Detroit. His name was Freddy Dickson and his companies name was Dickson Tool and Gauge.
The Dickson tool post and tool holder is a miserable design, one that no one should copy.
If you wish to make your own, choose a dove tail type with the male dovetail on the tool post, female on the tool holder.
For clamping the tool holder, arrange a finger clamp that pushes on the inside of the rear dovetail angled surface. This pulls the tool holder tightly against the front dovetail surfaces, making for a superbly rigid assembly.
thank you.
@@Thesheddweller Thank you for your civil reply. I would have expected you to curse me six days to Sunday for my opinion:-))
To make locators with redundancy is always problematic; you yourself stated that the commercial Dickson tool holders were not a very good fit on the commercial Dickson tool post. This would have driven me to drink!
You will notice that practically all modern lathes have one prismatic guide only for the carriage; a second such guide at the rear would be completely redundant; yet one American lathe maker persisted with this unnecessary practice. I imagine that considerable handwork by scraping was necessary to fit those carriages to their respective lathe beds.
On heavy planers the double Vee guides are used to resist the heavy side loading on the table, but this is an exception.
In the mid 1990's I designed and built a QCTP and 2 dozen tool holders using the dovetail principle. I learned very quickly to always use the same dovetail cutter for tool holders with that tool post, because commercially available dove tail cutters have an unacceptable variance on that 60 degree angle!
Were I to do this again I would purchase a good quality dove tail tool post (NOT the pump style!) plus a few tool holders, and make the rest of the tool holders myself to suit the various purposes.
I'd then take the QCTP to the tooling vendor and select a dove tail cutter that fitted the tool post's dove tail as accurately as possible. Myself I sharpened a dove tail cutter so that the angle matched my tool post's angle.
With the female dove tail on the tool holder it is very easy to ensure that the tool holders are sufficiently alike such that the clamping lever winds up very closely in the same position with the different tool holders.
@@BasementEngineer I agree with your sentiment regarding the dovetail and rearward locking system. but if I could afford it I would have the original four position brick with 1 tool holder fitted and the rest spare. The tool holder would be the drop in cam lock cartridge insert holder that I used to use, before I retired.
In a boring machine or on a lathe and sometimes the old NCs. One cartridge holder could be loaded with any number of left right or neutral position cartridges with whatever insert, including internal, external, trepanning, parting, threading,... 12, 16 and 19mm inserts whatever you want really, all off one cartridge holder held in the tool brick. I had some of the cartridges re-machined to hold very small profiled carbide inserts as well.
However, deep boring was always done using a more dedicated tool. I also used a twenty meter long planer re-purposed to a four cutter milling machine, and yes the vee slides on them were big enough to need climbing ropes to get over them.
In truth with these old or cheep home workshop machines, a repeatable indexing system is not worth the money beyond saving time with setting up for common used tools.
Yeah some people might feel justified with scratching your eyes out for an honest comment, I've worked with many good engineers in my time and they all had a valid arguments, but the boss had the best.
Regards.
P.S. who said I wasn't driven to drink... 😉
what . Did you do with the one's you truth unusable. or to big . I don't mind taking them of your hands.? as I intend to builds me A holder. & could do with a set to work with , as the of no ues to you. Send them to me at 52 .weald-stone Woodside Telford & Wrekin England I will Mack use of them Les. ? i won't insult you by offering you money for an inferior product , But I can put them to ues send them. [ Me thank you] it called scrounging son .
Hi Les, Im afraid they weren’t that bad that I didn’t want to use them, I use them for my tool swops and roughing cuts. sorry… hey, thanks for watching.
Great work! What steel did you use for these?
Hi, think I mentioned in the video that I didn't know what material I used because, the material was donated to me at the time. cheers