The Chinese and Indian made tool holders I have all take and adjust for tool height for my 12mm tooling no worries. They were bought in 3 different lots from 3 different suppliers over about 12 months. So they must have worked it out at some point in the 5 years or so since you did the video. But I do like the change with the bigger ledge on the adjusting screw, they definitely still have that problem!
Well Steve you have amazed me again. Setting up your lathe to be used like a vertical mill. I like the concept on the tool holder to adapt larger tools. And you do all this inside your small Building. I tip my hat to you sir.
Thank you Steve, I have a Dixon type quick change tool post but most of my tools are 10mm carbide tipped which are fine. More importantly I learned how to mill in the lathe as I have the attachment which allows me to do so.
hi Steve, thanks for showing your idea of being able to use bigger lathe tools another way and a quicker way instead of cutting say 10 tool holders, instead of cutting the tool holders what I done when I had a myford was to mill the top slide edge down approx. 5mm that way the holders can still be adjusted without the need to cut all the holders worked for me when I had my myford super 7 thanks again, regards....Keith in Swindon
Hi Keith. I'm surprised that Myford didn't actually have a quick change tool-post that was a better design than the Dixon. When I first got mine I couldn't believe how small the tools had to be to get centre height! I like the Dixon tool-post though, as the holders are fairly cheap to buy and you can have lots of them!. Why did you sell your Super 7?......Have you got another lathe?.... Regard Steve
+1 for milling the top-slide - I've done similar and the cast iron is a whole lot easier to machine than a bunch of tool holders. I've noticed Myford are offering an improved topslide design and themselves suggest removing 2-3mm from these to support larger tooling.
@@mikedodd1117Shock, horror.....suggesting that anyone should mill any metal off of a Myford …..LOL......get away with you......I would have milled 5mm off the top face of the compound slide where the tool post fits, it has enough metal there to not weaken it at all.
Hi Steve I am so enjoying your videos . so far have made the saddle stop and waiting for the round vice to make the cross drilling spindle and mlling spindle. My Dixon holders are rock hard so will have to anneal them intend buying some of E bay and hope they are soft !!
Hi Laurie Thanks, You will find the tool-post drill to be one of the most used tools. I only modified a few of the holders, like you say some are really hard and need annealing and others are soft already. I have some other ideas lined up if I get the time. Regards Steve
Hi Laurie I have just come up with an easier method of modifying the tool holders so one doesn't have to anneal them. Hope to show this in my next video.
I have an RGD quick change, bought for Myford, which has a 10mm hole instead of an 11mm or 7/16in so won't fit the hold down bolt. Knowing that it isn't hardened i will drill it out tomorrow. Great video.
Only this morning I had to open up the slot on mine because of this problem. I never thought of your solution! Mine were hard in some places but the tungsten cutter got there in the end. It looks like you made a new eccentric locking bolt for yours also. That's on my list as well the ones I have are terrible!
Another superb video Steve. Thanks for taking the time to detail this. I hope that Myford and or the 3rd party manufacturers are watching your videos... this one in particular. If not the mod to the tool holder but most certainly the mod to the adjustment screws. How to make a good tool great ! Regards... John
Hi John, Thanks. Yes I was very pleased with the height adjuster mod. I actually got very annoyed with the older ones! Also I've noticed that the Dixon type tool-posts vary in dimensions a bit from different makers, or batches. Since I have done this modification the difference in using the holder is great. I've found that all these small improvements add up to make the lathes and tools much nicer and easier to use. Regards Steve
Thanks , I did it the other way arround and cut a few millimeter of the support so all my toolholders fit, and it would take away the strengt of the toolholder,. it seems hardened to and not easy to mill.
Hi Steve, Thanks for this idea. Even if it's possible to mill the edge of the top slide, if prefer your solution. i don't like to modify genuine part of the lathe when it's possible to avoid. Keep on with your video's ! Best regards, Eddy.
+Eddy Fontaine Hi Eddy thanks. Yes I think you are right. I had a look at mine and decided the same. Also I like to leave it as it is just in case I use the original tool clamp. I wouldn't like to reduce the surface where the tools sit. Regards Steve
PLEASE NOTE. WHEN I"M SHOWING THE MILLING OP ON THIS VIDEO I AM CLIMB MILLING. THIS IS NOT CONVENTIONAL MILLING. I SHOULD HAVE FED THE WORK IN FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE. i.e.... FROM FRONT TO BACK. THIS WAY IS MUCH SAFER AS IT AVOIDS THE TOOL SNATCHING THE WORK-PIECE. TOOL SNATCH CAN OCCUR, IN THE WAY I HAVE SHOWN, DUE TO ANY BACKLASH IN THE CROSS SLIDE LEAD-SCREW.
Was looking through all your videos today, super simple stuff. Re the tool holder milling that's the first thing I noticed & I thought a man of your calibre must have erred in your statement; now reading through I note you have corrected your description ( above) well done that man!
Hi Richard Thanks, You can do this if you want to and people say they make clearance on the front of the compound slide to achieve the same result. I just like leaving my lathe as it is, standard and altering the fixtures instead.
Hi Steve I bought a couple of holders last year from RDG at a show and they were already machined down on the bottom edge as you have just shown. By the way did you make your carriage stop for your lathe? I would like to make one for my Super 7.
Hi John, Thanks. No I didn't make that carriage stop. I bought it on Ebay. I'm looking into making a quick adjustable stop sometime, plus I want to make an adjustable depth clock attachment. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit first! My Brother has the Super 7...all great lathes! Regards Steve
I also have a swivelling vertical vice but it has lost its base. Can anyone supply pictures, drawing or simple replacement options. It is the two bolt one like yours not the single bolt one.
Don't you ever need to rotate the toolpost turret on the compound? It looks like your modified holder will hit the corner of the compound if you do. You could maybe remove just enough to clear the corner by turning it on a faceplate (maybe 2 at a time for counterweight?) and still retain a lot of the strength of the toolholder's jaws. You wouldn't need the milling slide and collet chuck either.
Hi Yes it would clash with the corner. I rarely rotate the tool-post, but if I need to I will just use the smaller tools that I have set in holders that clear.
Steve, as a newbie to machining I value your videos, and have a couple of questions if you would be so kind? 1. Which toolpost do you recommend for a Chinese C3 mini lathe? The lantern type supplied seems very light and insubstantial, but would another make get the height correct and the tool far enough back from the work piece? What do you use on a mini? And 2. When will you be making a video on sharpening lathe tools? I have a set of 12mm tools - Warco 9076 - which I had assumed in my naivety would have been supplied properly sharpened. Are you saying this is not the case? Many thanks for your help, and keep up the good work. Ian
Hi Ian, I recommend the Dixon Type Quick-Change type....just make sure you get the right size which is the same one that fits the Myford Lathes. I have found that most of the HSS and Brazed Carbide tooling that you can buy needs extra clearance and relief to machine properly. This isn't that they have been ground wrong, its just that they haven't been finished. This has to be done by the machinist. You will find that the tools in their purchased state will rub on areas that are not meant to touch the machined diameters of the work, particularly on small components. I mainly use carbide insert tools now as they are such good quality and once they are set on centre height, they do not need any height adjustment, as when an insert wears out they are just changed. They are also very cheap if you buy directly from China on Ebay. Having said that I have a few very useful HSS tools like the small boring bars that I use for most jobs or home ground o/ring groove tools. I will try and show some when I get time. Just one tip for grinding tools....if you try and machine a component, with a tool set correctly on centre height, and it doesn't feel or look like it is cutting correctly, you can use a blue marker pen and cover the whole end of the tool with blue ink, let it dry. You then do a test cut, stop the machine, take the tool holder off the machine and look for areas on the tool where the blue has rubbed off. You can use this method to determine where the tool is rubbing, usually on the shank just beneath the cutting edge. To correct it you just carefully grind that area back a bit...usually at a slightly steeper angle than what the tool already has. This known as, 'giving the tool more relief'. This is basically it, with all the tools! But like I say....I hope to show it soon as it is not that difficult when you study it carefully.....Thanks again for watching
Thank you very much Steve for such a quick and comprehensive reply, especially the tip about bluing the tool to see where it's rubbing. Off to get a Dixon toolpost now, and give my bank account some more welly! :( Looking forward to your video on grinding when you can do it (with all your projects I'm amazed you have any time to make videos at all)! But very glad you do; they are a great help.
Another great video Steve.I have just purchased one of these toolposts so I will most certainly be doing this modification.I did come across this same problem with a Chinese mini lathe and milled the end of the top slide 3mm to achieve the same thing. That is a very nice vice you were using, where did you manage to find it.I have been searching everywhere for a decent vice like that. Cheers from the Antipodies.
Hi Malcolm, Thanks. I bought that one last year on Ebay from either RDG or Chronos. I have just had a look though and I can't find any for sale again and they don't seem to have it on their websites now. If I find it again, I will let you know. Regards Steve
Hi Steve,thanks for your response.Thanks very much for the offer to let me know if you see it again.There are a few rubbishy looking ones out there.All the best.
Hi and nice explanations! One comment: you were climb milling, not conventionnal milling, so the ens mill could have pulled the slide in it it would have bitten hard.
Hi, Thank you for pointing this out. I have put a correction annotation note on the actual video where I show the milling part. So people will see the error. Unfortunately the note doesn't show on mobile devices, so hopefully they may read the comments. Regards Steve.
Hi Steve thanks for your videos but with this one I am concerned that you are telling people to only climb mill when milling on the lathe, it is less likely to snatch up the backlash of the slide if you feed into the rotation of the cutter aka. conventional milling which is then always pushing against the backlash... just an observation not a criticism...
Hi Dave you are right....I got a bit confused there! I have put a correction note on the actual video to rectify this. Although the note will not show up on mobile devices, so hopefully people will read the comments! Thank you for pointing this out. Regards Steve
SINCE DOING THIS VIDEO I FOUND AN EASIER METHOD TO DO THE MODIFICATION WITHOUT THE NEED FOR MILLING:- SEE THIS VIDEO. th-cam.com/video/PGvLnlGG4XI/w-d-xo.html
Very clever innovations to extend the use of the lathe for milling and tooling....love the clarity in your videos....Thank you Steve.
Hi Sammy, Thanks.
The Chinese and Indian made tool holders I have all take and adjust for tool height for my 12mm tooling no worries. They were bought in 3 different lots from 3 different suppliers over about 12 months. So they must have worked it out at some point in the 5 years or so since you did the video. But I do like the change with the bigger ledge on the adjusting screw, they definitely still have that problem!
Well Steve you have amazed me again. Setting up your lathe to be used like a vertical mill. I like the concept on the tool holder to adapt larger tools. And you do all this inside your small Building. I tip my hat to you sir.
Nice upgrade Steve, Simple but effective! Most of us wouldn't have thought of that, thank you for sharing this idea.
Hi Glenn, Thanks.
Glenn Felpel
Thank you Steve, I have a Dixon type quick change tool post but most of my tools are 10mm carbide tipped which are fine. More importantly I learned how to mill in the lathe as I have the attachment which allows me to do so.
Thanks Steve I always learn something new watching your videos!
Hi Steve, I've just finished that modification. Thank you, it works great.
Hi Tom, Thanks. Yes I'm very pleased with it as well. I think some of the larger insert tools cut better and you can use larger HSS as well.
Thank you Steve, that is the first job I will attempt to make. You will be first to know how it has come about. Cheers John!
Hey Steve, I've gained a lot of knowledge from your videos. Well done, keep them coming! Doug
Hi Doug Thanks for watching......Regards Steve
hi Steve, thanks for showing your idea of being able to use bigger lathe tools
another way and a quicker way instead of cutting say 10 tool holders,
instead of cutting the tool holders what I done when I had a myford was to mill
the top slide edge down approx. 5mm that way the holders can still be adjusted without the need to cut all the holders
worked for me when I had my myford super 7
thanks again, regards....Keith in Swindon
Hi Keith. I'm surprised that Myford didn't actually have a quick change tool-post that was a better design than the Dixon. When I first got mine I couldn't believe how small the tools had to be to get centre height! I like the Dixon tool-post though, as the holders are fairly cheap to buy and you can have lots of them!.
Why did you sell your Super 7?......Have you got another lathe?.... Regard Steve
+1 for milling the top-slide - I've done similar and the cast iron is a whole lot easier to machine than a bunch of tool holders. I've noticed Myford are offering an improved topslide design and themselves suggest removing 2-3mm from these to support larger tooling.
@@mikedodd1117Shock, horror.....suggesting that anyone should mill any metal off of a Myford …..LOL......get away with you......I would have milled 5mm off the top face of the compound slide where the tool post fits, it has enough metal there to not weaken it at all.
@@gangleweed Fear not!, I collected the machining chips and present them as a holy relic for worship in the corner of the shed.
...and yes, of course, I meant the compound slide.
Hi Steve I am so enjoying your videos . so far have made the saddle stop and waiting for the round vice to make the cross drilling spindle and mlling spindle. My Dixon holders are rock hard so will have to anneal them intend buying some of E bay and hope they are soft !!
Hi Laurie Thanks, You will find the tool-post drill to be one of the most used tools. I only modified a few of the holders, like you say some are really hard and need annealing and others are soft already. I have some other ideas lined up if I get the time. Regards Steve
Hi Laurie I have just come up with an easier method of modifying the tool holders so one doesn't have to anneal them. Hope to show this in my next video.
definitely another brilliant video. have learned so much from your videos, great to follow and always interesting. thanks.
Hi Thanks
I have an RGD quick change, bought for Myford, which has a 10mm hole instead of an 11mm or 7/16in so won't fit the hold down bolt. Knowing that it isn't hardened i will drill it out tomorrow. Great video.
Only this morning I had to open up the slot on mine because of this problem. I never thought of your solution!
Mine were hard in some places but the tungsten cutter got there in the end.
It looks like you made a new eccentric locking bolt for yours also. That's on my list as well the ones I have are terrible!
Hi John, I must get some tungsten cutters. I actually thought about that when I was machining these! Regards Steve
Another superb video Steve. Thanks for taking the time to detail this. I hope that Myford and or the 3rd party manufacturers are watching your videos... this one in particular. If not the mod to the tool holder but most certainly the mod to the adjustment screws. How to make a good tool great ! Regards... John
Hi John, Thanks. Yes I was very pleased with the height adjuster mod. I actually got very annoyed with the older ones! Also I've noticed that the Dixon type tool-posts vary in dimensions a bit from different makers, or batches. Since I have done this modification the difference in using the holder is great. I've found that all these small improvements add up to make the lathes and tools much nicer and easier to use. Regards Steve
Thanks for taking the time to make these very informative videos
Thanks , I did it the other way arround and cut a few millimeter of the support so all my toolholders fit, and it would take away the strengt of the toolholder,. it seems hardened to and not easy to mill.
Hi Steve,
Thanks for this idea. Even if it's possible to mill the edge of the top slide, if prefer your solution.
i don't like to modify genuine part of the lathe when it's possible to avoid.
Keep on with your video's !
Best regards,
Eddy.
+Eddy Fontaine Hi Eddy thanks. Yes I think you are right. I had a look at mine and decided the same. Also I like to leave it as it is just in case I use the original tool clamp. I wouldn't like to reduce the surface where the tools sit. Regards Steve
PLEASE NOTE. WHEN I"M SHOWING THE MILLING OP ON THIS VIDEO I AM CLIMB MILLING. THIS IS NOT CONVENTIONAL MILLING. I SHOULD HAVE FED THE WORK IN FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE. i.e.... FROM FRONT TO BACK. THIS WAY IS MUCH SAFER AS IT AVOIDS THE TOOL SNATCHING THE WORK-PIECE. TOOL SNATCH CAN OCCUR, IN THE WAY I HAVE SHOWN, DUE TO ANY BACKLASH IN THE CROSS SLIDE LEAD-SCREW.
Was looking through all your videos today, super simple stuff. Re the tool holder milling that's the first thing I noticed & I thought a man of your calibre must have erred in your statement; now reading through I note you have corrected your description ( above) well done that man!
Nice modification, thanks for the video.
Thanks
Hello Steve, Great projects. Why should I not create clearance on the cross slide instead please??
Hi Richard Thanks, You can do this if you want to and people say they make clearance on the front of the compound slide to achieve the same result. I just like leaving my lathe as it is, standard and altering the fixtures instead.
Thank you Steve, Love your projects.
Best wishes
Richard
Hi Steve I bought a couple of holders last year from RDG at a show and they were already machined down on the bottom edge as you have just shown. By the way did you make your carriage stop for your lathe? I would like to make one for my Super 7.
Hi John, Thanks. No I didn't make that carriage stop. I bought it on Ebay.
I'm looking into making a quick adjustable stop sometime, plus I want to make an adjustable depth clock attachment. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit first!
My Brother has the Super 7...all great lathes!
Regards Steve
I also have a swivelling vertical vice but it has lost its base. Can anyone supply pictures, drawing or simple replacement options. It is the two bolt one like yours not the single bolt one.
Don't you ever need to rotate the toolpost turret on the compound? It looks like your modified holder will hit the corner of the compound if you do. You could maybe remove just enough to clear the corner by turning it on a faceplate (maybe 2 at a time for counterweight?) and still retain a lot of the strength of the toolholder's jaws. You wouldn't need the milling slide and collet chuck either.
Hi Yes it would clash with the corner. I rarely rotate the tool-post, but if I need to I will just use the smaller tools that I have set in holders that clear.
Steve, as a newbie to machining I value your videos, and have a couple of questions if you would be so kind?
1. Which toolpost do you recommend for a Chinese C3 mini lathe? The lantern type supplied seems very light and insubstantial, but would another make get the height correct and the tool far enough back from the work piece? What do you use on a mini?
And 2. When will you be making a video on sharpening lathe tools? I have a set of 12mm tools - Warco 9076 - which I had assumed in my naivety would have been supplied properly sharpened. Are you saying this is not the case?
Many thanks for your help, and keep up the good work.
Ian
Hi Ian, I recommend the Dixon Type Quick-Change type....just make sure you get the right size which is the same one that fits the Myford Lathes.
I have found that most of the HSS and Brazed Carbide tooling that you can buy needs extra clearance and relief to machine properly. This isn't that they have been ground wrong, its just that they haven't been finished. This has to be done by the machinist. You will find that the tools in their purchased state will rub on areas that are not meant to touch the machined diameters of the work, particularly on small components.
I mainly use carbide insert tools now as they are such good quality and once they are set on centre height, they do not need any height adjustment, as when an insert wears out they are just changed. They are also very cheap if you buy directly from China on Ebay. Having said that I have a few very useful HSS tools like the small boring bars that I use for most jobs or home ground o/ring groove tools. I will try and show some when I get time.
Just one tip for grinding tools....if you try and machine a component, with a tool set correctly on centre height, and it doesn't feel or look like it is cutting correctly, you can use a blue marker pen and cover the whole end of the tool with blue ink, let it dry. You then do a test cut, stop the machine, take the tool holder off the machine and look for areas on the tool where the blue has rubbed off. You can use this method to determine where the tool is rubbing, usually on the shank just beneath the cutting edge. To correct it you just carefully grind that area back a bit...usually at a slightly steeper angle than what the tool already has. This known as, 'giving the tool more relief'. This is basically it, with all the tools! But like I say....I hope to show it soon as it is not that difficult when you study it carefully.....Thanks again for watching
Thank you very much Steve for such a quick and comprehensive reply, especially the tip about bluing the tool to see where it's rubbing. Off to get a Dixon toolpost now, and give my bank account some more welly! :( Looking forward to your video on grinding when you can do it (with all your projects I'm amazed you have any time to make videos at all)! But very glad you do; they are a great help.
Nicely done and well videoed
Another great video Steve.I have just purchased one of these toolposts so I will most certainly be doing this modification.I did come across this same problem with a Chinese mini lathe and milled the end of the top slide 3mm to achieve the same thing.
That is a very nice vice you were using, where did you manage to find it.I have been searching everywhere for a decent vice like that.
Cheers from the Antipodies.
Hi Malcolm, Thanks. I bought that one last year on Ebay from either RDG or Chronos. I have just had a look though and I can't find any for sale again and they don't seem to have it on their websites now. If I find it again, I will let you know. Regards Steve
Hi Steve,thanks for your response.Thanks very much for the offer to let me know if you see it again.There are a few rubbishy looking ones out there.All the best.
Hi and nice explanations! One comment: you were climb milling, not conventionnal milling, so the ens mill could have pulled the slide in it it would have bitten hard.
Hi, Thank you for pointing this out. I have put a correction annotation note on the actual video where I show the milling part. So people will see the error. Unfortunately the note doesn't show on mobile devices, so hopefully they may read the comments. Regards Steve.
Отличная резцедержка!!! Класс!!!
Really useful thanks
Hi Steve thanks for your videos but with this one I am concerned that you are telling people to only climb mill when milling on the lathe, it is less likely to snatch up the backlash of the slide if you feed into the rotation of the cutter aka. conventional milling which is then always pushing against the backlash... just an observation not a criticism...
Hi Dave you are right....I got a bit confused there! I have put a correction note on the actual video to rectify this. Although the note will not show up on mobile devices, so hopefully people will read the comments! Thank you for pointing this out. Regards Steve
Jesus Steve this is full on!
it would a great video if there was sound
+Ronald Labiche Hi Ronald there is sound. You must have your sound settings set wrong on whatever device you are watching it on......
Love the sound. You came in loud and clear.
SINCE DOING THIS VIDEO I FOUND AN EASIER METHOD TO DO THE MODIFICATION WITHOUT THE NEED FOR MILLING:- SEE THIS VIDEO. th-cam.com/video/PGvLnlGG4XI/w-d-xo.html
Dickson