Thanks for the video. Don't let people slide on the payment. I tell people when I put a heating or air condition system in start saving for a new one and they looked at me like I got 10 heads. Cuz 15 years you're on borrowed time. Thanks for the video again
In the present economy with the punishing inflation rate, groceries and the cost of everything way up, the cost of heating fuel let alone gasoline, many people are struggling severely. The Democrat Party are living it up at their convention, eating at the finest restaurants in Chicago, swilling the top shelf liquors and slamming President Trump on TV with filthy lies. Democrats with their creepy woke trans/queer gender agendas, after just 3.5 years have ruined our economy, flooded the country with illegal aliens who are voting illegally in our elections, bankrupting our welfare programs. These illegals are bringing in record amounts of lethal Chinese Fentanyl through the open Southern border. And so many other awful things like the useless foreign wars they have got us involved in. It's hard for people to save anything right now. The Democrats have put most people in survival mode let alone in savings mode. They have done a despicable job. Trump 45 gave us the best economy I have ever seen in my 68 years, he closed the border and had criminals like the MS-13 gangs on the run. He started no terribly expensive proxy wars. Now we are supposed to re-elect the the same people who brought us the dismal "Biden economy" for another 4 years under the command of an unqualified puppet named Harris with the same failed policies. The situation the Democrat Party left us with is why this man is worried, and why he is wondering how he'll pay for the repair of his failing 40 year old well. The choice is easy, Trump 2024.
actually not a bad idea to use some form of bladder during the repairs I doubt a bladder will fix the axial force that broke it however best case is that they plug the hole with a bladder, dig out the old pipe, fix the pipe, and grout the remainder
I appreciate an honest appraisal of a problem, and I am the sort of person that fixes potential problems ahead of them actually being a problem. So even with a bit higher cost I would definitely be saying just get it done to the highest quality because I don't like drinking dirt water Thanks for sharing
I've got one about 300 feet deep, Concrete slab on top, unknown age. Pretty sure the casing is broken, when it rains hard, water flows from the top of the casing. I don't use it for potable water, but I'd kind of like to fix it. Not sure if it's worth doing though, it's an industrial property and across the street was a huge strip mine, that became the municipal dump, and then was used for ash, broken concrete, and dirt. Then for the past 2 years they have been running triaxles in with clean fill every day about one truck every 30 seconds so that they can build 5,5 million sf of warehouses on it. I guess the chances are slim to none I'll ever get potable water out of it.
A good friend that ran an auto salvage and scrap metal business had a sign hanging on the wall behind his sales counter that read. “My banker and I have made a deal. He won’t sell car parts and I won’t loan money. “ I was young the first time I read that. Made too much sense.
Hey brother, I don't know how you explain to the customer, but what could really help them visualize the problem and better understand you would be for you to build a small scale model of a well, with pipe joints and everything that you can change (ie, misalign a joint) to show them a great visual representation of the issue. I'm in a different industry, but just the same as you, I go to homes for work orders and a small scale model has helped me immensely with customer education.
My guess is that the pad frost heaves or the ground expands in the rain and moves it. And just so everyone knows, old concrete isn't better than new concrete. Concrete continues to set for 30+ years. It gains most of it's strength in the first few days, but it gets harder and stronger as time goes on.
I would drop a tire inner tube into the open pipe and plug the pipe with that, then you could clean it out. You'd have to be creative on how to extend the valve stem.
Don't ever take payments! It will usually bite you in the rear end! I like what you said, save up and you'll come back then. This should be the way it is with everything, if you don't have the cash then don't buy it!
8:35 we can see 1/4 to 1/3 pipe diameter offset... Right there, I'd be recommending to bust the concrete pad, excavate to the lower pipe + down 1 more foot and then reline the thing as deep as possible. I doubt you can pull the 30 - 40 year old casing and replace it.
I sure wish you were in south western NY.... $4500-5500 well at 165 ft. I was quoted $11k for the first 100 ft and 10 a foot there after! I need a well something fierce.
@@h2omechanic Awesome! Looking forward to it!! I hope you hit your goal of 100k subs. You have really good content on water wells that can not be matched!
Our home is just at 2 years old and the last two heavy rains our water comes out looking like mud. Water treatment company (rhymes with mulligan) replaced the whole house filter two days later and water cleared up. Pretty sure there is infiltration occurring but not sure where. Seems odd for a Well barely 2 years old
Probably owns a dog and has dog feces all over their shoes and gets tracked all over their house anyway. But if they found out dog shit was in their drinking water would still be ok with it. Dog people tolerate really gross stuff.
So. Keeping in mind I know nothing about wells. Could you put some kind of bladder on the end of an air hose that you could place in the casing to block any debris from falling in? Then use a powerful shop vacuum to suck on any debris on top of the bladder?
I have been a plumber since 97 and have never seen a data plate on a well, sometimes data is written inside the head. Almost all of my plumbing has been west coast though maybe it’s just not required there. As far as protecting the well while excavating we plumbers use an inflatable plug to water test sewer lines you can get them for up to a 6” pipe, they are generally called a donkey dick, when you see one you’d understand why they call them that. But they have a chain on them and an inflation tube both of which can be extended to suit your needs.
Great video! I have a similar sediment situation going on in a well at 9,000 ft in the San Juans in Colorado. A 25 micron 4x10 filter clogs in 4 days but it slips past a 50 micron filter. I don't notice it getting worse after rains. 260' well. Water quality issues as well - sodium, TDS, manganese, sulfate. Trying to figure out if I need to do something to clean the well (jetting) or just go with the recommended RO system with an autoflush sediment tank style filter. Any suggestions?
If the sediment doesn't just stay suspended, a large metal tank should help. 1000-2000 gals Put the inlet at half depth and outlet on the opposite side of the tank at the top. Install a large clean out port at the bottom and flush it annually or however often is needed. If you used 20-40ft of 36in steel or plastic pipe, you could pressurize it and not have a second pump to pump out of the tank to the house. A pipe could also be set in or on the ground at a slight tilt, leaving more distance from the sediment and the outlet. The slow moving water would allow the sediment to settle out rather than dealing with filters.
I would prefer you put the liner in dig that concrete up and dig until you can find the area of the broken pipe and then remove it and replace it with PVC then line it
@@deltab115 If the 2nd anode is magnesium, switch to aluminum will help. But that doesn't fix the problem of too much hydrogen sulfide in the well water. It won't come out with a water softener, best option is an RO unit.
You might not want to take payments but think about finding a company who will loan to your possible customers so you dont lose business and the client gets what they need when they want it. A little more effort will make you a hero in your clients eyes.
My water comes out really get were on clay from what I understand but it comes out really dark and takes days for it to clear up. This might continue to be an on going issue after heavy rain any suggestions anyone? The prior owner used a well water company I end up calling them they suggested maybe another filter to go with the one I have to capture the clay idk is becoming a bit of a nuisance. I'm thinking of getting another opinion who do I call?
dig down 6or 8ft cut off below bad spot put a drive shoe or sleeve on use a 7 0r 9 ft. piece of casing with a pitless adapter pour hole plug up to bottom of pitless adapter they had pitless adapters back in the 80s wonder why they did not use one? maybe grouting was not mandatory in that county back then.
Im having a submersible pump system installed in a few weeks. They will drill the hole on the ground. Tired of all the problems that come with the 1HP vertical pump that i have. What is the best casing and process that i need to ask the people that will do the work? I want to make sure they dont cut corners.
There's over 5 different types of well construction across the U S. It totally depends on your region and the makeup of the ground in your area. Drillers local to you will know what to do. I just always tell people not to go with the cheapest quote. Good Drillers always charge more but will work harder to get a clean/clear product (water) for the customer.
@@h2omechanic The well repair guy that i use in Texas says that the old submersible pumps last way longer than the new ones that you buy now a days. Is that just a believe or true? I was thinking that the new pumps now are made better and more efficient.
@@KASPERSKY707 Your well guy is 100% correct. New pumps are lasting 7-14 years. Old pumps lasted 16-22 years. 1 major manufacturer makes 4 quality brands in 1 factory in Mexico. Unfortunately, it's what we get these days. I've seen the same thing in A/C heat pump systems. We truly are living in a throw away culture Unfortunately.
@@KASPERSKY707 Product quality and maintenance are ALWAYS the first to go when new CEOs come in; they have to show their "profit" worth to the board members, and unfortunately, EVERYTHING is now "engineered" to failure. Quality "impedes" profits. I have a side by side sears fridge in my kitchen that was made in 1991, a keepover from the previous house owner, and everything still works in it and its in great condition; you wont find ANYTHING that lasts that long any more. Ive got to pull my pump to install an external check valve, and I'm gonna drop my pump back down in my well, and it was installed years before I bought this house is 2005.
What kind of zombie apocalypse well design is this? All I've ever worked on and inspected have a pitless adapter 8' or more below the surface. The only thing that comes out of the casing is the power and the lift/drop cable. The cap has a bulge to fit over the conduit(parallel to the casing). This must be in some region that never gets freezing weather.
As a welder by trade I think I can tell you why not. That casing is badly corroded which is why it failed and getting a good solid weld will be difficult if not impossible. Steel well casings are a bit of a conundrum. The water inside corrodes the casing to be sure but my concern is always with exterior of the casing. You can control the inner contents to a degree but you have no control on the exterior exposure. Highly acidic or alkaline soil conditions surrounding the casing will frequently corrode the casing faster than the water inside. I have seen piping pulled out of the ground where the inside was virtually new while the outside was like lace with corrosion pitting. Most underground steel tanks fail due to external corrosion which is why in some areas fibreglass tanks, even with their higher initial costs, are superior. The use of PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) piping is used today is simple because corrosion is no longer a problem and if PVC is installed correctly with grouting it can last a hundred years or more.
I have a dug well . I just replaced the foot valve, shallow well pump, check valve after the pump, new tank, and a new pressure switch. The problem I’m having is the pump runs for 1 second every 5 minutes. If I run water it does a normal 30-50 cycle. Then about 30 - 50 minutes later it does the 1 second short cycle again. Could the new switch be bad?
Is there no device like a balloon plug , imagine a thick rubber sausage like inertube , you slide it down inflate to block any dirt from falling in , maybe i should invent this ?
We charge 8500 minimum for a 200 foot well and the price is going up again. Dude may drill six foot over from that one and have a 600 foot well with less water
Easy. Fill crack with foam. Install water barrier under grass or on top with gravel to shield the area. Problem solved for next to nothing. If homeowner has avg IQ, they can do it.
Nothing at all to say about that amateur hour electrical connection huh? Pump hook up wire is NOT allowed to be used outside the well casing, at all and it certainly isn't rated to make the connection back to the house & pressure switch.
No payment plan for anyone unfortunately. I've been burned too many times! Bad people ruin it for good people. I've lost a few jobs because I cannot afford to give away free materials and labor. You can make payments before hand however but I dont like that either!
make more $$ , install hose bibb , (sillcock ) , in house, s/o valve after that , STUPID to drain all the house water , attach hose in house run it outside 2 flush it out when fixed , spend some of your big bux , get a brite led pistol grip flashlite , milw. 12v , w/ wrist strap , was lookin 4 that ph. 2 fall inna well , , hate seein shit work , and contractors that have cheap shit tools, ( cant afford it, thats bud lite money !! )
gonna buy u a flashlite 2 day ?? , u say at the end ?? hey goober.. y u aint got MANY of em ?? W/LOTS of batteries ??, i'd get a job like that , shit.. , canopy , tables , generator, FOOD , drink, hilljax fu.k around , lay tools onna ground , ...u use 100% s.s. hose clamps ?? AMERICAN MADE ?? , y not , , spend some o dat $$$ goober !! w t f
Thanks for the video. Don't let people slide on the payment. I tell people when I put a heating or air condition system in start saving for a new one and they looked at me like I got 10 heads. Cuz 15 years you're on borrowed time. Thanks for the video again
In the present economy with the punishing inflation rate, groceries and the cost of everything way up, the cost of heating fuel let alone gasoline, many people are struggling severely. The Democrat Party are living it up at their convention, eating at the finest restaurants in Chicago, swilling the top shelf liquors and slamming President Trump on TV with filthy lies. Democrats with their creepy woke trans/queer gender agendas, after just 3.5 years have ruined our economy, flooded the country with illegal aliens who are voting illegally in our elections, bankrupting our welfare programs. These illegals are bringing in record amounts of lethal Chinese Fentanyl through the open Southern border. And so many other awful things like the useless foreign wars they have got us involved in. It's hard for people to save anything right now. The Democrats have put most people in survival mode let alone in savings mode. They have done a despicable job.
Trump 45 gave us the best economy I have ever seen in my 68 years, he closed the border and had criminals like the MS-13 gangs on the run. He started no terribly expensive proxy wars. Now we are supposed to re-elect the the same people who brought us the dismal "Biden economy" for another 4 years under the command of an unqualified puppet named Harris with the same failed policies. The situation the Democrat Party left us with is why this man is worried, and why he is wondering how he'll pay for the repair of his failing 40 year old well. The choice is easy, Trump 2024.
I have same issue, after looking into the well and watching this video, now I know, thank you.
Interesting video and information. Very nice explaining to the homeowner
You could use a bladder to try to straight it out and et least use the bladder to prevent dirt valling in the well while excavation !
actually not a bad idea to use some form of bladder during the repairs
I doubt a bladder will fix the axial force that broke it however
best case is that they plug the hole with a bladder, dig out the old pipe, fix the pipe, and grout the remainder
4" test ball? Lol
I appreciate an honest appraisal of a problem, and I am the sort of person that fixes potential problems ahead of them actually being a problem. So even with a bit higher cost I would definitely be saying just get it done to the highest quality because I don't like drinking dirt water
Thanks for sharing
Wow! thats a 2" offset. good luck ever getting that pump out.
I've got one about 300 feet deep, Concrete slab on top, unknown age. Pretty sure the casing is broken, when it rains hard, water flows from the top of the casing. I don't use it for potable water, but I'd kind of like to fix it. Not sure if it's worth doing though, it's an industrial property and across the street was a huge strip mine, that became the municipal dump, and then was used for ash, broken concrete, and dirt. Then for the past 2 years they have been running triaxles in with clean fill every day about one truck every 30 seconds so that they can build 5,5 million sf of warehouses on it.
I guess the chances are slim to none I'll ever get potable water out of it.
A good friend that ran an auto salvage and scrap metal business had a sign hanging on the wall behind his sales counter that read.
“My banker and I have made a deal. He won’t sell car parts and I won’t loan money. “
I was young the first time I read that. Made too much sense.
Hey brother, I don't know how you explain to the customer, but what could really help them visualize the problem and better understand you would be for you to build a small scale model of a well, with pipe joints and everything that you can change (ie, misalign a joint) to show them a great visual representation of the issue.
I'm in a different industry, but just the same as you, I go to homes for work orders and a small scale model has helped me immensely with customer education.
That’s the dumbest thing I have ever heard
My guess is that the pad frost heaves or the ground expands in the rain and moves it. And just so everyone knows, old concrete isn't better than new concrete. Concrete continues to set for 30+ years. It gains most of it's strength in the first few days, but it gets harder and stronger as time goes on.
So as you are saying the older it is the harder it is, So old concrete is better.
@@Bum-e2k Ok, maybe I can be more clear. Concrete ages like red wine. The older the better. They didn't make it any better in the past.
I have the same problem with muddy water from my well near GSO, NC. It would be nice if you were close and could fix it. I don't need a payment plan.
I would drop a tire inner tube into the open pipe and plug the pipe with that, then you could clean it out. You'd have to be creative on how to extend the valve stem.
Don't ever take payments! It will usually bite you in the rear end! I like what you said, save up and you'll come back then. This should be the way it is with everything, if you don't have the cash then don't buy it!
If the banks and Credit Companies won't lend someone money, there's usually a reason. I don't need to find out for myself.
8:35 we can see 1/4 to 1/3 pipe diameter offset... Right there, I'd be recommending to bust the concrete pad, excavate to the lower pipe + down 1 more foot and then reline the thing as deep as possible.
I doubt you can pull the 30 - 40 year old casing and replace it.
And that's, that. Thanks for sharing.
I wish my well had a plate like that! I keep forgetting how deep they drilled it!
I sure wish you were in south western NY.... $4500-5500 well at 165 ft. I was quoted $11k for the first 100 ft and 10 a foot there after! I need a well something fierce.
Hope there is a part two to this!
Definitely! My goal is to finish the job on Sunday. Great content! I have 3 videos to upload soon
@@h2omechanic Awesome! Looking forward to it!! I hope you hit your goal of 100k subs. You have really good content on water wells that can not be matched!
Hooked already.
Threads corrode much faster..and that high means lots of oxygen.
I'd try to pack it off before excavation if you can get it past the break.
Our home is just at 2 years old and the last two heavy rains our water comes out looking like mud. Water treatment company (rhymes with mulligan) replaced the whole house filter two days later and water cleared up. Pretty sure there is infiltration occurring but not sure where. Seems odd for a Well barely 2 years old
The driller needed to set casing deeper. Watch my videos on Well Liners.
Muddy rainwater is the least of the problem. Viruses and bacteria would be my concern.
Probably owns a dog and has dog feces all over their shoes and gets tracked all over their house anyway. But if they found out dog shit was in their drinking water would still be ok with it. Dog people tolerate really gross stuff.
Yeah especially if they don't have a good septic system.
Living in olden times in Kohala, the Big Island of Hawaii, everyone bathed in bath water like this, had a cistern to hold “drinking water”!
Only the water from the kitchen sink was filtered!
So. Keeping in mind I know nothing about wells. Could you put some kind of bladder on the end of an air hose that you could place in the casing to block any debris from falling in? Then use a powerful shop vacuum to suck on any debris on top of the bladder?
I've seen them run a tapered wedge to straighten it out then run 4" liner to bottom
Can you stick a small heavy lift bag 10ft down and inflate it to keep crap out?
I was a inhome sals person, I used a secondary company for credit. we always got paid..
i have metal weel casing. i have to have a large filter to catch the crud
was part 2 ever uploaded?
So what makes the price to fix it so high? Is it lots of man hours to pull that pump and replace that top section of pipe?
I have been a plumber since 97 and have never seen a data plate on a well, sometimes data is written inside the head. Almost all of my plumbing has been west coast though maybe it’s just not required there. As far as protecting the well while excavating we plumbers use an inflatable plug to water test sewer lines you can get them for up to a 6” pipe, they are generally called a donkey dick, when you see one you’d understand why they call them that. But they have a chain on them and an inflation tube both of which can be extended to suit your needs.
I have a question , I see most bolts are on backwards, the ones you put in have the nuts on top.
Bro I hate to tell you but I can tell from how that customer was talking you ain’t never gettin paid off that one.
Was wondering if I can use water service line rated 250 psi my submersible pump
Great video! I have a similar sediment situation going on in a well at 9,000 ft in the San Juans in Colorado. A 25 micron 4x10 filter clogs in 4 days but it slips past a 50 micron filter. I don't notice it getting worse after rains. 260' well. Water quality issues as well - sodium, TDS, manganese, sulfate. Trying to figure out if I need to do something to clean the well (jetting) or just go with the recommended RO system with an autoflush sediment tank style filter. Any suggestions?
Probably a Auto BackWash style filtration system. Geologically your area is different. Idk what type of sediment your trying to filter out
If the sediment doesn't just stay suspended, a large metal tank should help. 1000-2000 gals Put the inlet at half depth and outlet on the opposite side of the tank at the top. Install a large clean out port at the bottom and flush it annually or however often is needed. If you used 20-40ft of 36in steel or plastic pipe, you could pressurize it and not have a second pump to pump out of the tank to the house. A pipe could also be set in or on the ground at a slight tilt, leaving more distance from the sediment and the outlet.
The slow moving water would allow the sediment to settle out rather than dealing with filters.
Payments... No, never. Homeowner can get a loan and pay on that.
I would prefer you put the liner in dig that concrete up and dig until you can find the area of the broken pipe and then remove it and replace it with PVC then line it
Really enjoy your content. I live in SW Missouri and the Sulphur smell is strong...particularly the hot water. Is there a remedy for this?
Might be the anode rod in the hot water heater breaking down and causing the sulphur smell.
I believe H20 Mechanic has a video on that also.
@@deltab115 If the 2nd anode is magnesium, switch to aluminum will help. But that doesn't fix the problem of too much hydrogen sulfide in the well water. It won't come out with a water softener, best option is an RO unit.
Sulfur filter with activated carbon and KDF
Stop summoning demons in your yards?
If the casing problem is 10' or less below grade, why not big a hole and replace casing?
Watch part 2 in the following video
I wonder if someone smashed into that pad with a tractor some time ago and shifted it over.
You might not want to take payments but think about finding a company who will loan to your possible customers so you dont lose business and the client gets what they need when they want it. A little more effort will make you a hero in your clients eyes.
When I’ve allowed people to make payments for work I’ve done it doesn’t work out too good most of the time
My water comes out really get were on clay from what I understand but it comes out really dark and takes days for it to clear up. This might continue to be an on going issue after heavy rain any suggestions anyone? The prior owner used a well water company I end up calling them they suggested maybe another filter to go with the one I have to capture the clay idk is becoming a bit of a nuisance. I'm thinking of getting another opinion who do I call?
Put rainx on the camera lens it's what I do with all my cameras works great 👍
That's a great idea 💡 you win the internet today! Taught me something new! Love it!!!
Don’t use on plastic lenses though or it will tarnish it
dig down 6or 8ft cut off below bad spot put a drive shoe or sleeve on use a 7 0r 9 ft. piece of casing with a pitless adapter pour hole plug up to bottom of pitless adapter they had pitless adapters back in the 80s wonder why they did not use one? maybe grouting was not mandatory in that county back then.
Grouting was definitely required in N.c.
& yes I'm going to do exactly what you said! Next week sometime!
@@h2omechanic thank you for your reply, i am sure the home owner will happy.
Im having a submersible pump system installed in a few weeks. They will drill the hole on the ground. Tired of all the problems that come with the 1HP vertical pump that i have. What is the best casing and process that i need to ask the people that will do the work? I want to make sure they dont cut corners.
There's over 5 different types of well construction across the U S. It totally depends on your region and the makeup of the ground in your area. Drillers local to you will know what to do. I just always tell people not to go with the cheapest quote. Good Drillers always charge more but will work harder to get a clean/clear product (water) for the customer.
@@h2omechanic The well repair guy that i use in Texas says that the old submersible pumps last way longer than the new ones that you buy now a days. Is that just a believe or true? I was thinking that the new pumps now are made better and more efficient.
@@KASPERSKY707 Your well guy is 100% correct. New pumps are lasting 7-14 years. Old pumps lasted 16-22 years. 1 major manufacturer makes 4 quality brands in 1 factory in Mexico. Unfortunately, it's what we get these days.
I've seen the same thing in A/C heat pump systems. We truly are living in a throw away culture Unfortunately.
@@KASPERSKY707 Product quality and maintenance are ALWAYS the first to go when new CEOs come in; they have to show their "profit" worth to the board members, and unfortunately, EVERYTHING is now "engineered" to failure. Quality "impedes" profits. I have a side by side sears fridge in my kitchen that was made in 1991, a keepover from the previous house owner, and everything still works in it and its in great condition; you wont find ANYTHING that lasts that long any more. Ive got to pull my pump to install an external check valve, and I'm gonna drop my pump back down in my well, and it was installed years before I bought this house is 2005.
@@h2omechanic What submersible 4" pump do you recommend for a well down to 200 feet?
What kind of zombie apocalypse well design is this? All I've ever worked on and inspected have a pitless adapter 8' or more below the surface. The only thing that comes out of the casing is the power and the lift/drop cable. The cap has a bulge to fit over the conduit(parallel to the casing). This must be in some region that never gets freezing weather.
They do things ass backwards in the south
Why not just take out the slab and dig down to the break and weld a new piece of casing onto it?
As a welder by trade I think I can tell you why not. That casing is badly corroded which is why it failed and getting a good solid weld will be difficult if not impossible. Steel well casings are a bit of a conundrum. The water inside corrodes the casing to be sure but my concern is always with exterior of the casing. You can control the inner contents to a degree but you have no control on the exterior exposure. Highly acidic or alkaline soil conditions surrounding the casing will frequently corrode the casing faster than the water inside. I have seen piping pulled out of the ground where the inside was virtually new while the outside was like lace with corrosion pitting. Most underground steel tanks fail due to external corrosion which is why in some areas fibreglass tanks, even with their higher initial costs, are superior.
The use of PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) piping is used today is simple because corrosion is no longer a problem and if PVC is installed correctly with grouting it can last a hundred years or more.
I have a dug well . I just replaced the foot valve, shallow well pump, check valve after the pump, new tank, and a new pressure switch. The problem I’m having is the pump runs for 1 second every 5 minutes. If I run water it does a normal 30-50 cycle. Then about 30 - 50 minutes later it does the 1 second short cycle again. Could the new switch be bad?
The tank might have too much air in it for the 30/50 switch. Needs 28psi max (when empty of water)
Bro lifting the lid just got bigger and bigger as he approached the lid 😂
Simple, just use a deflated mini basketball. Down the hole and air it up, you get the idea.
There's no way insurance will cover that. Faulty work from 40 years ago? It's an act of God that it lasted as long as it did.
Did you go back or did he flake on you. I’m guessing he flaked.
Any of Mother Nature in our state means insurance companies don’t have to pay.
People ask if they can make payments so they can only pay you once and skip the rest
Yep
Sometimes sure. People make payments on things all the time.
No such thing as act of nature language in an insurance policy. I would call this wear and tear, or earth movement. Not covered.
Ground shift should be covered.
@@MrZorbatron Not under any HO3 policy.
Is there no device like a balloon plug , imagine a thick rubber sausage like inertube , you slide it down inflate to block any dirt from falling in , maybe i should invent this ?
We charge 8500 minimum for a 200 foot well and the price is going up again. Dude may drill six foot over from that one and have a 600 foot well with less water
Very True! But we're just going to fix this one.
@@h2omechanic good idea i am shore the home owner will appreciate that
Easy. Fill crack with foam. Install water barrier under grass or on top with gravel to shield the area. Problem solved for next to nothing. If homeowner has avg IQ, they can do it.
ahahaha we lived with rusty water for decades when i was a kid..
iron is good for you
surface water intrusion is very bad
When someone asks for a payment plan, that's when I tell them it's going to be COD only
Did he ever pay you?
I hate it but I got county water. ( Iron Hill) just saying
Nothing at all to say about that amateur hour electrical connection huh? Pump hook up wire is NOT allowed to be used outside the well casing, at all and it certainly isn't rated to make the connection back to the house & pressure switch.
I'm calling you next time. I paid that just for a pump.
excavator lift the cement and then realign
No payment plan for anyone unfortunately.
I've been burned too many times!
Bad people ruin it for good people.
I've lost a few jobs because I cannot afford to give away free materials and labor.
You can make payments before hand however but I dont like that either!
Cheapest well I've ever heard of. I just got a quote for $50,000 for a 320 foot well.
Why are you calling a Bore a Well?! 🤔
How you guys dodge being electrocuted on every job I'll never know 😂
RIP off 😢
you ask me about payments, i say sorry can't work for you and leave....
Yeah. Poor people... Right? They don't need water.
You make me cringe every time you say "cement." Accent is a little off
I think you need a better camera l o l can't see shit really
Get water from the city lol
make more $$ , install hose bibb , (sillcock ) , in house, s/o valve after that , STUPID to drain all the house water , attach hose in house run it outside 2 flush it out when fixed , spend some of your big bux , get a brite led pistol grip flashlite , milw. 12v , w/ wrist strap , was lookin 4 that ph. 2 fall inna well , , hate seein shit work , and contractors that have cheap shit tools, ( cant afford it, thats bud lite money !! )
gonna buy u a flashlite 2 day ?? , u say at the end ?? hey goober.. y u aint got MANY of em ?? W/LOTS of batteries ??, i'd get a job like that , shit.. , canopy , tables , generator, FOOD , drink, hilljax fu.k around , lay tools onna ground , ...u use 100% s.s. hose clamps ?? AMERICAN MADE ?? , y not , , spend some o dat $$$ goober !! w t f