That board was in a bad state, I would love to see you get a replacement APU and solder it on. I think you did a good job even though it was a no fix (for now). Keep up the great work friend. I look forward to your next video. Cheers!
I believe you use very low temp on the hot plate that's why it takes so much time with the hot air to reach the melting point. As those PCB's look more like a GPU pcb in thickness I would crank up the hotplate to around 200C or even 250C and my hot air gun around 350 with full air. Just a thought since you didn't mention the temps.
I start my pre-heater temp at 120C and slowly ramp it up to 200C over maybe 10 minutes. I have a temp probe attached to the PCB in a hole in the board as close to the APU as I can get. I watch that temp and when the indicated board temp reaches 110C, I bring in the hot air from above which was set at 360C. I ended up raising that to 370C before it released. I used 360C on the PS4 so that was my only reference.
@@ToltecMerc OK now I have the whole picture. I would wait till the temp on the APU side reaches 150C and then bring the air at around 350-380 max. To get that temp on the APU side it probably requires the hotplate to be set on 250C max. I don't think your preheater is a sophisticated one with temp profiles and so on so it needs a little of attention if set to 250C. Anyway, just thoughts based on my (limited) experience.
Watching you make this successful recall of an APU motivates (drives) me to try it. Vacuum removal tool? Because of the way you explain and demonstrate it in practice, I am already excited by this new teaching (in my case). Thank you very much sir for sharing. Needless to say, I learned a lot today. Thanks again. All the best.
Holy BOBO (beep on beep off), did someone open it up, and spray the liquid metal on the board? I've never seen someone remove the apu on a PS5 before. That was interesting. Great Repair Attempt and Video! Thank You Sir!
My first attempt at PS5 APU removal. It was a learning experience and I will do better next time. I have to get my temperatures right and it will go better.
Wow thanks for that data. I didnt know that. Im facing a similar issue with one ram 8 I replaced it 3 times and nothing. But my problem Is reverse instead the 20ohm I got 140ohm climbing to 205ohm. I already lift the coil and the problems comes to APU side also I inyect volt and nothing fire up. Master. Do you think high ohms there means dead APU? Its exactly when you have the 0.20ohm
@@ToltecMerc thanks for you info. I didnt know it. This one is micron. Very hard to know why I keep having the same issue with ram 8 probably a data line to APU.
Reball that APU, i've been there before, shorted Ram rail, that was sorted when the APU was lifted, and the culprit was liquid metal on the BGA. Just reball it.
Very interesting! I need to check that APU and see where that 1.35 goes in and if it is still shorted. I didn't see any liquid metal when I lifted it but it doesn't take much.
You have slapped rework stations in the face sir. No need for them with your skills. :) Amazing precision, technique and patience. Can't wait until you get the vacumn tool and attempt the upcoming ps5 apu reball. Any chance you can provide a link for your BGA nozzle? Forever a fan here! Keep the videos coming! "2 thumbs up!"
The nozzle was the largest square nozzle I could find several years ago. It is 45x45mm and it was not designed to fit my Quick 861DW. I had to modify it to fit. I found it on eBay some time ago.
@ToltecMerc , how long did it take you to receive your preheater from aliexpress. They are telling me they will ship in 3 days. The device will ship over by boat. Then it takes 30-45 days for UPS to deliver it. :(
I have been trying to repair an xbox one controller. On gamepad tester, the left stick was not registering left or right movements on the x-axis. After replacing with a brand new module, the stick now registers as being stuck fully to the right. Any ideas what it could be?
@@fsociety.dat101 have you measured the resistance to ground on the center pin if that potentiometer as you move it? Or possibly check the voltage at that center pin while you move it if you can test while powered up.
Nice one m8. I appreciate you putting up the failed ones as well. That board looked like a crime scene, and I immediately thought it had been dropped. I'm surprised the corner of the apu dye was not chipped!
hi sir , just a suggestion, I did fix that metal liquid few that fall into underneath the APU by the tooth water flosser with alcohol , the pressure will clean out the metal liquid under it. Maybe u can gv it a try next time . Happy to see your video , keep it up for ur master skill .
@@ToltecMerc yes it will work for those water flosser tools come with the strong pulse mode. You may try out first next time before remove the APU , it will save a lot of time on ur job ☺️
I feel like a diver with little time doing dives who is told by his coach: today we will dive up to 90 meters, that is, my legs are shaking, my heart is beating twice as fast and my forehead feels hot to the point of sweating. Excellent lesson, challenging and extremely interesting. Thank you very much for this teaching, teacher. I loved when you said: "we will continue along this same path or route". All the best.
I thought the removal of the APU went very well for a first attempt, if that means anything as I have never worked on a PS5 let alone remove an APU. You did as much as you could to bring this one back to the world of working. Thanks for the video, it was all of the above by the way. 👍
I'd be curious to find the pads that correspond to that previously shorted line and match it to the APU, then measure that point to a ground pad. Maybe some liquid metal got underneath and shorted the line. I'd find it far more likely that it's fried though.
I got a beep on beep off I've been workin at. My skill level and more important knowledge level isn't anywhere close to yours, but I'm wondering the same thing in my case. If the APU has somehow shorted. Mine acts the same way. It's clean. But it does the same thing in terms of beep on beep off. I haven't investigated it in quite some time. I managed to fix another PS5 in the meantime, but the beep on beep off unit continues to challenge me.
It is a 45x45mm nozzle that I found on eBay. It was not made for my Quick hot air station. I had to modify where it attached to my nozzle to make it fit.
@@yoho2chn yes. The nozzle actually had a clamp with a screw to tighten it on the hot air handle. I had to cut off the clamp. What remained was the perfect diameter to slide onto my Quick hot air handle.
I can tell you that with the APU attached and Samsung RAM installed it should be around 20-40 ohms. Micron and SKHynix read higher. More like 100-200 ohms.
@ToltecMerc Hello, I have a PS5 with an ADP-400FR Power supply with some blown components and was wondering if you knew the capacitance of the cap at C11? I lack the proper equipment to measure the one next to it and I haven't been able to find information about it online. Thanks!
@@ToltecMerc Sorry for the late reply, I didn't even get a notification that you responded (thanks TH-cam) You are an absolute legend! Thank you so much, brother. God Bless
I need to improve cooling. I’ll just take an entire container of Liquid Metal and pour it on the APU. You know that still isn’t enough. Let’s take another container and distribute it across the board for good measure. How could this happen?
Great job , cant save then all. Btw may be if you getting a rework station machine to make the work easier. I recommend you to getting one like my rework station jovy re 8500 its so amazing , but i don't know if that rework station still available is .
No, the apu is married to the board, You can't replace it with a new one. Same goes for the DVD drive, the board to the drive is married to the apu, that is why you have to use the old board on non slim versions when you replace the drive.
The software is sold by Better Way Electronics. You can find other software options that are free. Just search for PS5 code reader. If you meant the physical UART, it's just a generic USB to serial interface that uses 3.3V signals.
Goodie, you must be finally situated at your new hacienda. New vid #3
I have been settled for a while. Work has been getting in the way lately.
Thanks for putting in all the overtime to bring us these great videos...
You are quite welcome! Glad you enjoy them!
That board was in a bad state, I would love to see you get a replacement APU and solder it on. I think you did a good job even though it was a no fix (for now). Keep up the great work friend. I look forward to your next video. Cheers!
I do have at least two boards with holes burned in them around the APU VRM. They would be candidates for a donor APU transfer.
@@ToltecMerc I would love to see this happen, I will look forward to this video as well. Cheers!
I believe you use very low temp on the hot plate that's why it takes so much time with the hot air to reach the melting point. As those PCB's look more like a GPU pcb in thickness I would crank up the hotplate to around 200C or even 250C and my hot air gun around 350 with full air. Just a thought since you didn't mention the temps.
I start my pre-heater temp at 120C and slowly ramp it up to 200C over maybe 10 minutes. I have a temp probe attached to the PCB in a hole in the board as close to the APU as I can get. I watch that temp and when the indicated board temp reaches 110C, I bring in the hot air from above which was set at 360C. I ended up raising that to 370C before it released. I used 360C on the PS4 so that was my only reference.
@@ToltecMerc OK now I have the whole picture. I would wait till the temp on the APU side reaches 150C and then bring the air at around 350-380 max. To get that temp on the APU side it probably requires the hotplate to be set on 250C max. I don't think your preheater is a sophisticated one with temp profiles and so on so it needs a little of attention if set to 250C. Anyway, just thoughts based on my (limited) experience.
Watching you make this successful recall of an APU motivates (drives) me to try it. Vacuum removal tool? Because of the way you explain and demonstrate it in practice, I am already excited by this new teaching (in my case). Thank you very much sir for sharing. Needless to say, I learned a lot today. Thanks again. All the best.
Love fallout. Is it Luck?
Nice repair. Can the spillage ever be from the console in vertical position?
This had to have been caused by a drop.
My hero! Still scooping up unsealed ps5. You must love the element of surprise😂
A surprise in every box!
Holy BOBO (beep on beep off), did someone open it up, and spray the liquid metal on the board? I've never seen someone remove the apu on a PS5 before. That was interesting. Great Repair Attempt and Video! Thank You Sir!
My first attempt at PS5 APU removal. It was a learning experience and I will do better next time. I have to get my temperatures right and it will go better.
Did you check the corresponding pad on the apu?
I did not but I can go back and check.
Wow thanks for that data. I didnt know that. Im facing a similar issue with one ram 8 I replaced it 3 times and nothing. But my problem Is reverse instead the 20ohm I got 140ohm climbing to 205ohm. I already lift the coil and the problems comes to APU side also I inyect volt and nothing fire up.
Master. Do you think high ohms there means dead APU? Its exactly when you have the 0.20ohm
That could be normal if you have Micron or SKHynix RAM. They are all a bit different.
@@ToltecMerc thanks for you info. I didnt know it. This one is micron. Very hard to know why I keep having the same issue with ram 8 probably a data line to APU.
Reball that APU, i've been there before, shorted Ram rail, that was sorted when the APU was lifted, and the culprit was liquid metal on the BGA. Just reball it.
Very interesting! I need to check that APU and see where that 1.35 goes in and if it is still shorted. I didn't see any liquid metal when I lifted it but it doesn't take much.
You have slapped rework stations in the face sir. No need for them with your skills. :) Amazing precision, technique and patience. Can't wait until you get the vacumn tool and attempt the upcoming ps5 apu reball. Any chance you can provide a link for your BGA nozzle? Forever a fan here! Keep the videos coming! "2 thumbs up!"
The nozzle was the largest square nozzle I could find several years ago. It is 45x45mm and it was not designed to fit my Quick 861DW. I had to modify it to fit. I found it on eBay some time ago.
@@ToltecMerc thank you for the prompt reply! :) Is the Meter you are using to monitor temps, a Fluke 51? Or what model?
@@davidstrider2007 Fluke 52. I picked up for a good price from eBay still in the box.
@@ToltecMerc nice! Thank you. I was looking on Aliexpress last night at the preheater. Great deals but that shipping is a bear haha :)
@ToltecMerc , how long did it take you to receive your preheater from aliexpress. They are telling me they will ship in 3 days. The device will ship over by boat. Then it takes 30-45 days for UPS to deliver it. :(
really enjoy your videos , You made me buy a soldering iron. fixed one ps5 so far hope to do more. thank you!
That's great! I'm glad I could give you some encouragement. Maybe you will make some videos one day.
I have been trying to repair an xbox one controller. On gamepad tester, the left stick was not registering left or right movements on the x-axis. After replacing with a brand new module, the stick now registers as being stuck fully to the right.
Any ideas what it could be?
@@fsociety.dat101 have you measured the resistance to ground on the center pin if that potentiometer as you move it? Or possibly check the voltage at that center pin while you move it if you can test while powered up.
I saw the Liquid Metal and I’m sure, just like you my stomach dropped.
It was not what I expected. I didn't see signs of drop damage on the outside.
Nice one m8. I appreciate you putting up the failed ones as well. That board looked like a crime scene, and I immediately thought it had been dropped. I'm surprised the corner of the apu dye was not chipped!
Thank you! It had to have been dropped to dislodge that much liquid metal. It did seem like too much LM.
Thanx master ❤️🇹🇷
You are welcome!
hi sir , just a suggestion, I did fix that metal liquid few that fall into underneath the APU by the tooth water flosser with alcohol , the pressure will clean out the metal liquid under it.
Maybe u can gv it a try next time .
Happy to see your video , keep it up for ur master skill .
That sounds like an excellent idea! I had wondered if those could produce enough pressure.
@@ToltecMerc yes it will work for those water flosser tools come with the strong pulse mode.
You may try out first next time before remove the APU , it will save a lot of time on ur job ☺️
I feel like a diver with little time doing dives who is told by his coach: today we will dive up to 90 meters, that is, my legs are shaking, my heart is beating twice as fast and my forehead feels hot to the point of sweating. Excellent lesson, challenging and extremely interesting. Thank you very much for this teaching, teacher. I loved when you said: "we will continue along this same path or route". All the best.
good work that great video
Thanks!
ToltecMerc,
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
I thought the removal of the APU went very well for a first attempt, if that means anything as I have never worked on a PS5 let alone remove an APU. You did as much as you could to bring this one back to the world of working. Thanks for the video, it was all of the above by the way. 👍
Thank you! That is very kind of you! I'm still learning!
What a disaster! Too bad it could not be saved!
I'd be curious to find the pads that correspond to that previously shorted line and match it to the APU, then measure that point to a ground pad. Maybe some liquid metal got underneath and shorted the line. I'd find it far more likely that it's fried though.
I got a beep on beep off I've been workin at.
My skill level and more important knowledge level isn't anywhere close to yours, but I'm wondering the same thing in my case. If the APU has somehow shorted. Mine acts the same way. It's clean. But it does the same thing in terms of beep on beep off. I haven't investigated it in quite some time. I managed to fix another PS5 in the meantime, but the beep on beep off unit continues to challenge me.
What model was the nozzle been used on this video? Looking to buy something similar for 861DW HOTAIR gun as well.
It is a 45x45mm nozzle that I found on eBay. It was not made for my Quick hot air station. I had to modify where it attached to my nozzle to make it fit.
@@ToltecMerc you mean clamp modified?
@@yoho2chn yes. The nozzle actually had a clamp with a screw to tighten it on the hot air handle. I had to cut off the clamp. What remained was the perfect diameter to slide onto my Quick hot air handle.
Be interesting on known working board of same revision what resistance on that same rail is without APU....
I can tell you that with the APU attached and Samsung RAM installed it should be around 20-40 ohms. Micron and SKHynix read higher. More like 100-200 ohms.
Thanks for that great video
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much, Toltec. Keep them coming
@ToltecMerc Hello, I have a PS5 with an ADP-400FR Power supply with some blown components and was wondering if you knew the capacitance of the cap at C11? I lack the proper equipment to measure the one next to it and I haven't been able to find information about it online. Thanks!
Let me check. Is it C11 you need or one near C11?
@@ToltecMerc Thanks for getting back to me. It is C11 that I need. Thanks!!
1500pF (1.5nF). It is identical to C10. It would need toe rated for something like 400V.
@@ToltecMerc Sorry for the late reply, I didn't even get a notification that you responded (thanks TH-cam)
You are an absolute legend! Thank you so much, brother. God Bless
Even the no fix are still entertaining 😉
I'm glad you enjoy the no fixes. I do try to show that I cannot fix all of them.
I need to improve cooling. I’ll just take an entire container of Liquid Metal and pour it on the APU. You know that still isn’t enough. Let’s take another container and distribute it across the board for good measure. How could this happen?
It certainly looks like a lot when it is spread all over the PCB and heat sink!
Great music! 🙂
@@rlgrlg-oh6cc thank you!
nice one apu chip are pain full te remove 😁
How do you know which is bank 3?
Great job , cant save then all.
Btw may be if you getting a rework station machine to make the work easier. I recommend you to getting one like my rework station jovy re 8500 its so amazing , but i don't know if that rework station still available is .
Top job cant win them all
Very true. Now I know I can remove an APU without destroying the board or processor so at least I learned something.
Cool 😎
Can replacing APU solve the problem?
from a quick google search i think they are linked to the board
No, the apu is married to the board, You can't replace it with a new one. Same goes for the DVD drive, the board to the drive is married to the apu, that is why you have to use the old board on non slim versions when you replace the drive.
You would need a working APU, TPM IC and the SSD storage ICs from another board to be able to repair this one.
@@ToltecMerc Which chip does TPM IC refer to?
Good job mate 👏
Thank you!
What temperature should you use on your heat gun?
I started at 360C but after about 4 minutes I raised it to 370C. For my next attempt, I will probably start at 370C for my hot air.
Where can I buy this code reader from? Thanks.
Betterwayelectronics
The software is sold by Better Way Electronics. You can find other software options that are free. Just search for PS5 code reader. If you meant the physical UART, it's just a generic USB to serial interface that uses 3.3V signals.
was just watching some of your old ps5 power supply repair videos, glad to catch this one early
Thanks for stopping by. I have a LOT of PS5 power supplies to repair. Maybe for live streams.
@@ToltecMerc Nice I would love to watch you do a live stream. I am from the UK but I would skip sleep if I had to.