Another tip: for those of you who do not have a tool for rewinding the caliper in, i used a simple spanner tool for changing discs in angle grinders to turn the caliper (the two notches of the spanner fit the caliper perfectly) whilst using a standard "G" clamp with a swivel ball type end to push the caliper in. Because the angle grinder spanner tool has a big gap in the middle there's plenty of room for the clamp to press it back as you turn. I did one turn on the clamp, one turn of the caliper with the tool, another turn of the clamp and so on... Cheap and common alternative to a proper caliper rewind tool!
Omg I just did mine and what a nightmare. Firstly the discs come in two diameter sizes, 240cm or 260. No way can you turn that E18 without a blow torch and a tube to fit in it to get the leverage.. you have to get the right piston retractor and be carefully not to split the duster seal. As in shimss, the vid shows clips, vauxhall don't sale shimes or any one else. I Discarded the shims and followd the rest of this vid. The breaks work perfect now and I do appreciate this clip. Btw I did mine on the road. . Thank you for your pro over basic vid, the really help tremendously
Excellent video. Done this with my friend today, one note is the M18 bolt was exponentially harder to loosen than shown in the video. Rest was spot on, many thanks.
It's a good advice. Doing my rear discs tomorrow 💪with this tutorial it seems to be piece of cake. Except the part of actually removing the old disc- in the worst case I am gonna use a flex grinder and a hammer lol
Thank you - helped me a lot. Only issues I came across were rewind took didn’t fit the holes on the calliper so had to improvise and torx screw hold disk on began to scuff but got their in the end! Cheers
Great video. Saved me a lot of headache. I was just about to order rear brake discs and pads for our Astra H, but I had no idea I would need Torx nuts. I only have the regular hexagons... Just wanted to check if the handbrake needed any adjustments?
Excellent clear no frills video of this job with great camera work. Couple of points I'd put forward for consideration. 1) If not changing the carrier mounting bolts, (apparently not specified for the Astra), you should maybe use a little locking compound on the threads when you replace them. 2) The bolts should also be torqued up to 25Nm (18 ft lbs) for the 13mm calipers and 100Nm (74 ft lbs) for the E18 carriers. Those carrier bolts take some strain in use and it would be disastrous if they loosened off. 3) The T30 disc locating screw is a bitch if it locks in. Its only job is to hold the disc in alignment when the wheel nuts are off so it actually does virtually nothing. It should only be screwed in hand tight with a driver, 4Nm (3ft lbs), or it can easily bind in place with the heat and wet when its head will strip out on removal and will then need drilled out. Replacement with a stainless version is useful. That said, these are just pointers I would have thought could easily be applied, others may say they are not really important.
Sorry for the very late post. OK there’s a wee bit of improvision during the videoed task, however the guy changed his pads and disks by the end of it, well done! Half of the criticising ‘keyboard jockeys‘ on here would never even attempt that job for fear of getting their hands dirty, heaven forbid, breaking a finger nail or a getting bit of spanner rash😂. The only part of the clip I would comment on was where he moved the calliper handbrake lever without first ‘hydraulicking’ the pistons up to the running clearance state by applying the brake pedal hard with the engine running to have servo assistance. If mechanical operation via the lever is made prior to setting that running clearance via the brake pedal you run the risk of having a crap handbrake with little reserve travel. If you’re unfortunate to have done so, it can be easily rectified by disconnecting the handbrake cable, fully winding back the calliper and setting your running clearance prior to any movement of the calliper lever. Hope this is of assistance to some🙂.
Thanks for posting this, really useful. Is there another *recommended* way to remove the disc if you do not have a puller? I replaced pads and disks on a Scenic a couple of years ago and the process seems similar. However I had to get hard handed with the discs to remove them by using a malet basically.
That was a good vid, really good actually. When I worked on brakes in the 80s I used a crow bar to open the cylinder with the resivor cap off. Is still ok? As I need to do my rears at the weekend. Tia
This is a perfect video, and also applies to Vauxhall Zafira 'A' vehicles with the Lucas rear brake carriers (Zafira A's have Bosch OR Lucas rear break calipers/carriers) as they are pretty much identical in every way.
Daniel Ingram Thank you! If you have disk brakes, this will be very similar. This tutorial applies to most cars with rear disk breaks. I am not sure if it is the same bolt dimensions, though. However, the procedure is basically the same. Good luck with your car!
matt smith Hello. Yes, it could be a good idea to open the reservoir lid when pushing the piston. I am not sure wich way it goes. I use a piston tool and it works fine clockwise.
elwyn jones Thank you! Yes, there are two slider pins. They should move freely. I would advice you to clean them and grease them when you have access to them. Good luck with your work :)
Hello. Wonder if you can help. I watched this and replaced my pads. I put some Brembo pads in. They had a 3M tab covering the Brembo logo. I just peeled it off and fitted the pads. Once finished I was putting the old pads in the box and a thin sheet of metal fell off the back of the pad where the piston pushes. Then noticed all 4 pads have them. Am I supposed to have taken those off and put on the new pads. If so I'd like to get new ones so do you know what they ate called pls?
@@merulafilms7863 Ah ok fair play. Its like a thin cover that clips over the back of the pad and has the writing on it. On the Brembo ones it just has the writing on the pad itself so not sure if the need these thin covers😅
@@merulafilms7863 I was thinking that as they give you new shim for the carrier and new bolts so for what it is you'd think they would include it if you need it 😂 Hopefully 😅 Thanks for your help and great vid. Helped me do mine quickly 👍🏼
The spray I used is called 'Hurtigrustløser' in Norwegian and you can get it at Biltema as you said. It is a rust spray with a freezing effect. However, I believe WD40 or 5-56 would do the trick as well. Be careful not to get oil on the brake discs. Good luck with your project :)
Hello! Changing the front disc and pads is quite similar to what you see here. Remove the wheel, loosen the caliper, remove the pads, remove any bracket that stand in the way of removing the disc and use loosen the disc as seen in the film. Changing the front brakes are pretty much straight forward if you got some experience. Take your time and be sure you have all the tools you need. Good luck to you! :)
@@merulafilms7863 Not strictly true. While it's not just a straight swap, It is possible to do a drums to discs conversion however it involves considerably more work and replacement of the rear axle. Definitely not a job for someone who is not competent and confident in their work. Good video by the way. Very clear and concise for the amateur mechanic.
I tried to do this on my car but some muppet had mangled the carrier bolts so i couldnt undo them even with the proper socket, my discs weren't too bad anyway so i just changed the pads, if i do decide to change the discs ill just ask a garage to change the bolts for me !!!
Thank you for your comment! I am sorry I forgot to mention this, but you are correct. It's a 150mm puller. I recommend a 3-legged puller as the discs are hard to get off.
+MerulaFilms Thanks for the info - very useful video by the way! When you pushed the caliper piston in did your tool have pins to rotate the piston at the same time? Some of the ones I have seen on eBay have pins spaced at 22mm or 32mm that engage with holes in the front face of the piston to make it rotate as you push it in. Not sure which type I need....
Jeremy Morgan Thanks again for your interest in my film! Nice to hear that you find it useful. My tool has those two pins to rotate the piston as you push it in. This works great and it's often easier to get it in while it rotates. I am not sure if it is 22 or 32mm, but I can try to check it out tomorrow. Just ask if there is anything else I can help you with. Good luck with the work on your car!
On my Astra H 1.6 the thickness on the front braking discs are 23mm. The thickness on rear braking disc are 9mm . I think there is not `room` for mechanical scraping. The question is : to replace braking discs and pads or not ?
Didn't even regease or even check the caliper slide pins..... Didn't use Ceartec, and also didn't even put grease on the back of the pad where the caliper has to squeeze, plus if the caliper was that tight, I'd get another as it'll be seized on the next brake job. I'm just saying you have "mechanics" and you have Mechanics.
Of course I checked the pins and regreased them. I also prepared the caliper by removing dust and copper pasted the slots. The video is cut and edited because I think this is basic knowledge if you start on a project like this and I don't like long and tiresome videos.
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Another tip: for those of you who do not have a tool for rewinding the caliper in, i used a simple spanner tool for changing discs in angle grinders to turn the caliper (the two notches of the spanner fit the caliper perfectly) whilst using a standard "G" clamp with a swivel ball type end to push the caliper in. Because the angle grinder spanner tool has a big gap in the middle there's plenty of room for the clamp to press it back as you turn.
I did one turn on the clamp, one turn of the caliper with the tool, another turn of the clamp and so on...
Cheap and common alternative to a proper caliper rewind tool!
Omg I just did mine and what a nightmare. Firstly the discs come in two diameter sizes, 240cm or 260. No way can you turn that E18 without a blow torch and a tube to fit in it to get the leverage.. you have to get the right piston retractor and be carefully not to split the duster seal. As in shimss, the vid shows clips, vauxhall don't sale shimes or any one else. I Discarded the shims and followd the rest of this vid. The breaks work perfect now and I do appreciate this clip. Btw I did mine on the road. . Thank you for your pro over basic vid, the really help tremendously
Excellent video. Done this with my friend today, one note is the M18 bolt was exponentially harder to loosen than shown in the video. Rest was spot on, many thanks.
Oh and no need for the spider pull at all, disc just come off with ease.
Good to check the wheel bearings while the disc is off. Just rotate with fingers and feel for notchiness.
It's a good advice. Doing my rear discs tomorrow 💪with this tutorial it seems to be piece of cake. Except the part of actually removing the old disc- in the worst case I am gonna use a flex grinder and a hammer lol
Thank you - helped me a lot. Only issues I came across were rewind took didn’t fit the holes on the calliper so had to improvise and torx screw hold disk on began to scuff but got their in the end! Cheers
Good to hear! I am glad I could help :)
Super quiet 🤫 video with a good work done ✅
Great video. Saved me a lot of headache. I was just about to order rear brake discs and pads for our Astra H, but I had no idea I would need Torx nuts. I only have the regular hexagons... Just wanted to check if the handbrake needed any adjustments?
Thank you for your kind comment! I didn't have to adjust the handbrake, but it is wise to check if your car need adjustments.
Excellent clear no frills video of this job with great camera work. Couple of points I'd put forward for consideration.
1) If not changing the carrier mounting bolts, (apparently not specified for the Astra), you should maybe use a little locking compound on the threads when you replace them.
2) The bolts should also be torqued up to 25Nm (18 ft lbs) for the 13mm calipers and 100Nm (74 ft lbs) for the E18 carriers. Those carrier bolts take some strain in use and it would be disastrous if they loosened off.
3) The T30 disc locating screw is a bitch if it locks in. Its only job is to hold the disc in alignment when the wheel nuts are off so it actually does virtually nothing. It should only be screwed in hand tight with a driver, 4Nm (3ft lbs), or it can easily bind in place with the heat and wet when its head will strip out on removal and will then need drilled out. Replacement with a stainless version is useful.
That said, these are just pointers I would have thought could easily be applied, others may say they are not really important.
Very useful tips. Thanks a lot!
Sorry for the very late post. OK there’s a wee bit of improvision during the videoed task, however the guy changed his pads and disks by the end of it, well done! Half of the criticising ‘keyboard jockeys‘ on here would never even attempt that job for fear of getting their hands dirty, heaven forbid, breaking a finger nail or a getting bit of spanner rash😂. The only part of the clip I would comment on was where he moved the calliper handbrake lever without first ‘hydraulicking’ the pistons up to the running clearance state by applying the brake pedal hard with the engine running to have servo assistance. If mechanical operation via the lever is made prior to setting that running clearance via the brake pedal you run the risk of having a crap handbrake with little reserve travel. If you’re unfortunate to have done so, it can be easily rectified by disconnecting the handbrake cable, fully winding back the calliper and setting your running clearance prior to any movement of the calliper lever. Hope this is of assistance to some🙂.
Thanks a lot. Exactly your post here helped me, and that MANY years later 👍
Great video. Well done
Thanks for posting this, really useful. Is there another *recommended* way to remove the disc if you do not have a puller? I replaced pads and disks on a Scenic a couple of years ago and the process seems similar. However I had to get hard handed with the discs to remove them by using a malet basically.
Yes, you really need to use some force. A pulley is the best way, but as you say, a mallet or hammer will also do the trick I believe ;)
No joke, I was literally doing this yesterday. Wife was pissed because we were late to a party.
+AmericasTopRifle I am sorry she didn't appreciate your hard work. Or maybe it's not the thing to do right before a party? :D
You're a master 😂
That was a good vid, really good actually. When I worked on brakes in the 80s I used a crow bar to open the cylinder with the resivor cap off. Is still ok? As I need to do my rears at the weekend. Tia
Thank you for your kind comment. Yes, they still work fine. Good luck with your brake job!
Excellent guide!!! Tack!
The only thing I would add is clean the slider pins while the carrier is off.😊
This is a perfect video, and also applies to Vauxhall Zafira 'A' vehicles with the Lucas rear brake carriers (Zafira A's have Bosch OR Lucas rear break calipers/carriers) as they are pretty much identical in every way.
Thank you for your comment and for the info! I will add it to the description.
+MerulaFilms great video mate. would this be a similar way of doing an astra g. I have a 2.2 sri astra. Thanks
Daniel Ingram Thank you! If you have disk brakes, this will be very similar. This tutorial applies to most cars with rear disk breaks. I am not sure if it is the same bolt dimensions, though. However, the procedure is basically the same. Good luck with your car!
the anxiety of the disk coming off nearly killed me lol 😁 great video helped alot 👍👍👍
I hate doing discs for that exact reason
You can use a 14mm socket or ring spanner if you don't have an E18 torx spanner.
Wouldn't this round off the bolt 😬
@@PaulJones-bu2ho Not if you take it easy and use a penetrating fluid if necessary, basically don't force it.
@@seanjoseph8637 I'll play it safe and get the proper tool/socket
@@PaulJones-bu2ho The correct tool is always the best choice.
You're welcome, and thanks for sharing now I will go an change my discs on my H Twinport stationwaggon
Thanks for the quick response! Ok have ordered a tool so fingers crossed. Do you have a vid on fuel filter change for 2003 ish 2.2 movano?
matt smith You're welcome :) No, I am sorry. I don't have any videos of filter change yet. Good luck with your car! :)
Do you need to open the brake fluid reservoir when pushing back the piston?
Also does the piston push in clockwise or anti? Thanks
matt smith Hello. Yes, it could be a good idea to open the reservoir lid when pushing the piston. I am not sure wich way it goes. I use a piston tool and it works fine clockwise.
Should the parking brake be left on?
Dose the pad with the metal lever on.go to the inside or out side,cheers
Do you need to bleed the breaks afterwards?
No, you don't need to bleed the brakes as long as you keep the calipers connected to the brake hoses.
@@merulafilms7863 thank you!
Good video thanks
hey good video .only one question are there slider pins on the back calipers and if so should they move freely?
elwyn jones Thank you! Yes, there are two slider pins. They should move freely. I would advice you to clean them and grease them when you have access to them. Good luck with your work :)
Done one side and the disc is difficult to spin it's up against the nearside pad will it free up in use?
Difficult to say. Did you fully press in the caliper piston?
great video. thanks for filming it
mjgreen81 Thank you for your comment! I am glad you liked it :)
Them pads what that bit of metal on the pad stick out which goes in inner side what it for ?
Wear indicator.
Hello. Wonder if you can help. I watched this and replaced my pads. I put some Brembo pads in. They had a 3M tab covering the Brembo logo. I just peeled it off and fitted the pads. Once finished I was putting the old pads in the box and a thin sheet of metal fell off the back of the pad where the piston pushes. Then noticed all 4 pads have them. Am I supposed to have taken those off and put on the new pads. If so I'd like to get new ones so do you know what they ate called pls?
Hi Philip. I am sorry, but I am not sure I understand what you mean by this thin metal. I have sold my car so I cannot check what mine look like.
@@merulafilms7863 Ah ok fair play. Its like a thin cover that clips over the back of the pad and has the writing on it. On the Brembo ones it just has the writing on the pad itself so not sure if the need these thin covers😅
I think it is probably fine without the covers if they were not included in the new set. :)
@@merulafilms7863 I was thinking that as they give you new shim for the carrier and new bolts so for what it is you'd think they would include it if you need it 😂 Hopefully 😅 Thanks for your help and great vid. Helped me do mine quickly 👍🏼
Noticed you are using biltima products, I will be doing the same to my Astra, could you tell me the name of the spray you used.
The spray I used is called 'Hurtigrustløser' in Norwegian and you can get it at Biltema as you said. It is a rust spray with a freezing effect. However, I believe WD40 or 5-56 would do the trick as well. Be careful not to get oil on the brake discs. Good luck with your project :)
Would it be required to apply new thread locker to the bolts with old threat locker on them?
Yes. It would really
What size puller do you use?
Wish my piston was that far back 😂 I can't get the rewind in, brutal.
Helpful vid cheers.
Sean Joseph Thank you! :)
My bolt cannot be removed with the spanners. I even used a hammer. Still no luck but almost broke the bolt. Anyone can suggest something?
Heat it up and use lots of wd-40 or similar. Then is should be easier
it is necessary and use the clips?
is this same process for front brake of astra g mk4 2000
Hello! Changing the front disc and pads is quite similar to what you see here. Remove the wheel, loosen the caliper, remove the pads, remove any bracket that stand in the way of removing the disc and use loosen the disc as seen in the film. Changing the front brakes are pretty much straight forward if you got some experience. Take your time and be sure you have all the tools you need. Good luck to you! :)
My rear brake has drum not disc brakes so can I put disc brakes or only rear brake drum.
+Gurkhas soldier I am sorry, but if your car has drum brakes you cannot change them to disc brakes.
@@merulafilms7863 Not strictly true. While it's not just a straight swap, It is possible to do a drums to discs conversion however it involves considerably more work and replacement of the rear axle. Definitely not a job for someone who is not competent and confident in their work. Good video by the way. Very clear and concise for the amateur mechanic.
I tried to do this on my car but some muppet had mangled the carrier bolts so i couldnt undo them even with the proper socket, my discs weren't too bad anyway so i just changed the pads, if i do decide to change the discs ill just ask a garage to change the bolts for me !!!
Good video thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you! :D
What size hub puller did you use to get the disc off? I can see 150 on one of the legs so I'm assuming it is 150mm/6". Thanks
Thank you for your comment! I am sorry I forgot to mention this, but you are correct. It's a 150mm puller. I recommend a 3-legged puller as the discs are hard to get off.
+MerulaFilms Thanks for the info - very useful video by the way! When you pushed the caliper piston in did your tool have pins to rotate the piston at the same time? Some of the ones I have seen on eBay have pins spaced at 22mm or 32mm that engage with holes in the front face of the piston to make it rotate as you push it in. Not sure which type I need....
Jeremy Morgan Thanks again for your interest in my film! Nice to hear that you find it useful. My tool has those two pins to rotate the piston as you push it in. This works great and it's often easier to get it in while it rotates. I am not sure if it is 22 or 32mm, but I can try to check it out tomorrow. Just ask if there is anything else I can help you with. Good luck with the work on your car!
Jeremy Morgan if you changing the disc just whack it off with a hammer
On my Astra H 1.6 the thickness on the front braking discs are 23mm. The thickness on rear braking disc are 9mm .
I think there is not `room` for mechanical scraping. The question is : to replace braking discs and pads or not ?
Re winding the piston and releasing the handbrake cable is not adequately dealt with here.
What size is rear brake disc ?
Hi. I am sorry for the late answer. The rear brake discs are 264x10 mm.
MerulaFilms thanks I have a combo c and have converted the rear drums to discs but not to sure what size they are
Bit of a cowboy way to do it,
No checking of the sliders, no locking compound on the caliper bolts, letting the caliper hang on the brake pipe..
rick hctep Yeah, you are right. But it works for me ;)
Rick hctep Yea shut up nobhead
@@WhimsyFlower Also caliper doesn't hang on brake hose alone because it's secured with hand brake cable.
thanks, I did it!
if my brake pads are still good can i keep them on?
Hello. I think you can, but it is recommended anyway because they could be worn unevenly.
+MerulaFilms I see thanks for replying and the great video
Greetings from Luxembourg
Just use a hammer to get the old disc off
I can’t believe you didint inspect or lubricate the sliders . Massive step skip to miss. Failing to do so can cause your caliper to stick
Of course I did inspect the gliding bolts. The film is cut and edited to make it short and to the point.
bravooooo👍
Thank you! :)
Pity someone forgot to apply grease to the new pads.....
What do you mean? Look at 10:30. There I grease the new pads.
Earwig alert 9:20 most exciting part ha ha ha ha
👍
Oh my god.. use a breaker bar and some proper Torx Socket 😑😑
olum hidrolik dolum kapağını açsana silindiri iterken.
That disc did not! Want to come off
Once it was screwed up tight if he had tapped the end of the extractor bolt it would have have jarred it free quicker.
Didn't even regease or even check the caliper slide pins..... Didn't use Ceartec, and also didn't even put grease on the back of the pad where the caliper has to squeeze, plus if the caliper was that tight, I'd get another as it'll be seized on the next brake job. I'm just saying you have "mechanics" and you have Mechanics.
Of course I checked the pins and regreased them. I also prepared the caliper by removing dust and copper pasted the slots. The video is cut and edited because I think this is basic knowledge if you start on a project like this and I don't like long and tiresome videos.
@@merulafilms7863 no problem but might wanna get rid of that shit copper grease, get some Ceratec for brakes, shit never dries out.
@@jayharris5460 I will try it next time. Thanks :)
@@merulafilms7863 no problem
omg WRONG