As a note on the safety of the firearm after modifying this part: I have tested it and compared it to my non-modified SFT Pro, and have come to the conclusion that this modification does not have an affect on the safety of the gun, and the ability of the safety block to hold back the striker I've hammered and beat on the striker attempting to get it to fail, and have not been successful. Granted my testing is not necessarily scientific, I was unable to use any means to make my striker safety fail. Take that as you will, and I do not blame anyone if they do not want to make this modification out of safety concerns
I've been going around telling people about this in a few places i have seen talking about the issue, idk if it was me but I'm glad u found a solution that works :D
With my own investigation on the firing pin channel. The firing pin is hitting the safety plunger. I pulled the plunger out and you could see where the firing pin was hitting the plunger. So I used a fine file and took off a little at a time until it wouldn’t hit any more. The safety plunger still works and the firing pin is clear from any more damage
I bought one three days ago, and it has trouble going into battery. I've tried different ammo brands and weights, but the problem persists. When it does go into battery it shoots well. It feeds and ejects fine, but the slide sometimes can't make the last few millimeters to full battery. I expect Canik will make things right, though.
Mine was really bad (out of battery) every 5 or 6 rounds. I noticed that the unfired bullet and casing were scored, so I polished the feed ramp and chamber with a dremel tool and that fixed the problem for me. Canik did send me the heavier spring, but I didn't install it right away. after polishing, the pistol ran fine with the original spring. After about 300 rounds, I decided to install the heavier spring and it still ran great.
I have the Canik TTI Combat and was having the ftrtb issue, but it was very inconsistent. I shot 115, 124, and 147, and initially, the 147 gave me a lot of problems. I was able to have a somewhat productive day. I watched a video, and they noticed some over-molding on the right side of the rail in the rear. That area was filed down, and the issue went away. Mine was not as bad, but i did feel some small burs. I did some light filing, and the last time I shot it, there were no failures.
I watched that video too. It totally makes sense that any burrs on the frame will cause issues going into battery and chewing up the striker. I've had no issues with my Mete SFX so far, but I will be looking at the frame and striker to make sure it doesn't suffer from the same over molding.
Great failure mode detective work and analysis. Have someone who has a bore scope look down the striker channel for a burr or defect. Obviously, its a manufacturing defect on a great many of the Canik TTI pistols and not an isolated few. Ultimately the the striker channel needs fixing. Thanks, again. I will guarantee to you engineers at the Canik factory in Turkey know exactly what is wrong with the slide's striker channel. They don't want to go and re-manufacture a zillion modified new replacement TTI slides and ship them worldwide to customers.
@@BepBadbongos Very interested same issue as me waiting on my spring on the 5th but I'm pretty sure its the channel like you said. Any information will be loved.
@@xreaper5642 i wasnt able to get it borescoped, the guy i thought had one, didnt have one. But I did take a closer look at the striker safety block and didnt notice any defects on it, nor did i notice damage from it being hit. Which makes me believe even more that this is coming from a defect in the channel itself. I might go out and buy a borescope to take a look through it. I'll definitely post an update when I do
This is an excellent autopsy on this issue. I was considering buying the TTI and now it's a no-go for me. I love my Canik Mete SFX and I've had no failures whatsoever on this 2nd hand pistol I bought. This definitely sounds like a striker channel issue, as I watched another you tuber dryfire 300 rounds and the striker got more chewed up each 100 rounds. The dremel fix might be crude but it's effective.
When having the striker usue, does it affect the bullet as well? The primer remains untouched, I know. But... Tried my TTI for the first time yesterday. Had malfunctions and each time it happened the bullet had a small scratch on the very top.
Scratches on the casing are pretty normal with most guns. What you want to look for is if your primer has been struck or not by the striker. For me, most of mine were a failure to strike the primer, very occassionally it would have a light primer strike. Depending on your specific malfuntion there could be several ways to fix it
@@BepBadbongos As far as I recall, there's was no mark on the primer. The gunsmith from the range put some grease in the system and then I had 1 malfunction out of 25 rounds. He sold quite some of those TTI Combats and I was the first one with an issue. He actually never heard of it before. I'm European, with severe gun laws in my country, so it will take about 4 months to have permission to take the gun homewards and fully clean/lube/setup it. As ammo here is more expensive as well, at least for me, it takes up to several months to shoot somewhat like 500 rounds. Fingers crossed the issue will be solved. But if not, I'll show your video.
I bought my canik tti right around december 1st and have since put about 500 rounds through it getting used to it and sighting in a red dot. I havent had a single problem and i even sent blazer through it for 100 rounds to see. Other than that it was fiochi and winchester. I imagine there was a bad run or so and stuff just wasnt perfect. Im gonna put another 200 through it when weather turns. Im curious if ill find any problems or if it will continue to be perfect.
@BepBadbongos I'm glad I got a good one! Cause it's an awesome gun, it's a shame they're being so inconsistent and that canik hasn't done anything about it. It seems like a lot of people are having problems with them and for a thousand dollar hand gun they definitely shouldn't be. I have no regrets because mine worked perfectly but if it did I would seriously regret getting it over the shadow systems I was debating. Also good idea, I bought mine at Scheels in the mid west and they have a 30 day exchange policy.
Thank you for your video,it’s very useful and could assess at least one of the problems affecting the tti. I boroscoped che striker channel and think it is the safety that is blocking, slowing down and in the end damaging the striker. This could lead to a light strike or to no strike at all. Probably the trigger sometimes cannot push down the safety properly and if that happens the safety itself hit the striker and slow it down or blocks it. That’s my video while I was pushing with a finger the striker safety What do you think? th-cam.com/users/shortshW8G35URYo8?si=TLkMdUoKaATKzDgp
As a note on the safety of the firearm after modifying this part:
I have tested it and compared it to my non-modified SFT Pro, and have come to the conclusion that this modification does not have an affect on the safety of the gun, and the ability of the safety block to hold back the striker
I've hammered and beat on the striker attempting to get it to fail, and have not been successful. Granted my testing is not necessarily scientific, I was unable to use any means to make my striker safety fail.
Take that as you will, and I do not blame anyone if they do not want to make this modification out of safety concerns
I've been going around telling people about this in a few places i have seen talking about the issue, idk if it was me but I'm glad u found a solution that works :D
With my own investigation on the firing pin channel. The firing pin is hitting the safety plunger. I pulled the plunger out and you could see where the firing pin was hitting the plunger. So I used a fine file and took off a little at a time until it wouldn’t hit any more. The safety plunger still works and the firing pin is clear from any more damage
And yes I probably voided my warranty.
That's more good information. Thank you for confirming that.
Could you please attach some pics of your modification?
I bought one three days ago, and it has trouble going into battery. I've tried different ammo brands and weights, but the problem persists. When it does go into battery it shoots well. It feeds and ejects fine, but the slide sometimes can't make the last few millimeters to full battery. I expect Canik will make things right, though.
Mine was really bad (out of battery) every 5 or 6 rounds. I noticed that the unfired bullet and casing were scored, so I polished the feed ramp and chamber with a dremel tool and that fixed the problem for me. Canik did send me the heavier spring, but I didn't install it right away. after polishing, the pistol ran fine with the original spring. After about 300 rounds, I decided to install the heavier spring and it still ran great.
I have the Canik TTI Combat and was having the ftrtb issue, but it was very inconsistent. I shot 115, 124, and 147, and initially, the 147 gave me a lot of problems. I was able to have a somewhat productive day. I watched a video, and they noticed some over-molding on the right side of the rail in the rear. That area was filed down, and the issue went away. Mine was not as bad, but i did feel some small burs. I did some light filing, and the last time I shot it, there were no failures.
I watched that video too. It totally makes sense that any burrs on the frame will cause issues going into battery and chewing up the striker. I've had no issues with my Mete SFX so far, but I will be looking at the frame and striker to make sure it doesn't suffer from the same over molding.
Great failure mode detective work and analysis. Have someone who has a bore scope look down the striker channel for a burr or defect. Obviously, its a manufacturing defect on a great many of the Canik TTI pistols and not an isolated few. Ultimately the the striker channel needs fixing. Thanks, again. I will guarantee to you engineers at the Canik factory in Turkey know exactly what is wrong with the slide's striker channel. They don't want to go and re-manufacture a zillion modified new replacement TTI slides and ship them worldwide to customers.
I plan to take it to someone I know who owns a borescope this coming week, if I am able to I will provide an update on the exact issue
@@BepBadbongos Very interested same issue as me waiting on my spring on the 5th but I'm pretty sure its the channel like you said. Any information will be loved.
@@xreaper5642 i wasnt able to get it borescoped, the guy i thought had one, didnt have one. But I did take a closer look at the striker safety block and didnt notice any defects on it, nor did i notice damage from it being hit. Which makes me believe even more that this is coming from a defect in the channel itself. I might go out and buy a borescope to take a look through it.
I'll definitely post an update when I do
This is an excellent autopsy on this issue. I was considering buying the TTI and now it's a no-go for me. I love my Canik Mete SFX and I've had no failures whatsoever on this 2nd hand pistol I bought. This definitely sounds like a striker channel issue, as I watched another you tuber dryfire 300 rounds and the striker got more chewed up each 100 rounds. The dremel fix might be crude but it's effective.
Having the same issue with my METE SFT. Will be waiting for further posts on this.
When having the striker usue, does it affect the bullet as well? The primer remains untouched, I know. But... Tried my TTI for the first time yesterday. Had malfunctions and each time it happened the bullet had a small scratch on the very top.
Scratches on the casing are pretty normal with most guns. What you want to look for is if your primer has been struck or not by the striker. For me, most of mine were a failure to strike the primer, very occassionally it would have a light primer strike.
Depending on your specific malfuntion there could be several ways to fix it
@@BepBadbongos As far as I recall, there's was no mark on the primer. The gunsmith from the range put some grease in the system and then I had 1 malfunction out of 25 rounds. He sold quite some of those TTI Combats and I was the first one with an issue. He actually never heard of it before.
I'm European, with severe gun laws in my country, so it will take about 4 months to have permission to take the gun homewards and fully clean/lube/setup it. As ammo here is more expensive as well, at least for me, it takes up to several months to shoot somewhat like 500 rounds.
Fingers crossed the issue will be solved. But if not, I'll show your video.
Legend
Did you get a new striker assembly from Canik?
@@mrtnt2337 I never got a new striker assembly from them. All they sent me was a new heavy recoil spring
I bought my canik tti right around december 1st and have since put about 500 rounds through it getting used to it and sighting in a red dot. I havent had a single problem and i even sent blazer through it for 100 rounds to see. Other than that it was fiochi and winchester. I imagine there was a bad run or so and stuff just wasnt perfect. Im gonna put another 200 through it when weather turns. Im curious if ill find any problems or if it will continue to be perfect.
Mine ran flawlessly until about 1500 rounds. Now I’m having these exact issues 😞😞
@@togetherwegame7225 it seems to be a very mixed bag when it comes to how well they run
Its almost like a coin toss if you get a functional one or not
@BepBadbongos I'm glad I got a good one! Cause it's an awesome gun, it's a shame they're being so inconsistent and that canik hasn't done anything about it. It seems like a lot of people are having problems with them and for a thousand dollar hand gun they definitely shouldn't be. I have no regrets because mine worked perfectly but if it did I would seriously regret getting it over the shadow systems I was debating.
Also good idea, I bought mine at Scheels in the mid west and they have a 30 day exchange policy.
I have one and the only issue that I had was the factory magazine wouldn't feed the round into the chamber.
Does not speak well for Canik CS.
Thank you for your video,it’s very useful and could assess at least one of the problems affecting the tti.
I boroscoped che striker channel and think it is the safety that is blocking, slowing down and in the end damaging the striker.
This could lead to a light strike or to no strike at all.
Probably the trigger sometimes cannot push down the safety properly and if that happens the safety itself hit the striker and slow it down or blocks it.
That’s my video while I was pushing with a finger the striker safety
What do you think?
th-cam.com/users/shortshW8G35URYo8?si=TLkMdUoKaATKzDgp