I've had the gun for about 3 weeks now as a edc. and I've range fired about 473 rounds so far... not a lot I know but that's 473 rounds with no issues. has always returned to battery and ejected very cleanly and quickly. I think its people who either aren't holding it correctly when firing or honest just got a dud. but I saw all the "issues" with this gun before purchasing and still decided to buy it. and it was a very good decision because the gun has performed amazingly since purchase and about 500 rounds.
I’ve still got a lot more to learn when it comes to firearms, but what about the grip causes out of battery? I’ve never had a problem with out of battery, but for some reason, I was using snap caps earlier today and the out of battery issues became present.
It may be limp wristing or ammo as you say, but this same thing is happening to my new MC9L, and I use quality ammo, and 100% am not limp wristing it. I bought both the L and LS at the same time. The LS has had no issues. Hopefully this fix works.
Update. I used very fine 900grit paper and sanded the polymer top rail so they were even with the metal guides and a couple of quick swipes on the inner side of the extractor. Went to the range and it worked perfectly! Thanks to videos like this that point us in the right direction!
For you guys having issues going into battery, change the striker spring. Canik’s striker springs are over sprung, that’s the reason why it stays out of battery but when you press the trigger it will come forward because is releasing the pressure of the striker. If it was a problem with the frame or the feed ramp the slide wouldn’t come forward after pressing the trigger, it will remain in the same position. Go to Galloway Precisions and order the 4 pounds striker spring.
Bro, don’t listen to the annoying ass commenters mentioning “m’kay” or what ever. You went out of your way to provide useful info and I appreciate it. I’m having this issue with my brand new $1000 TTI combat and I tried what you recommended here (except for polish) . I’ll see how it goes at the range tomorrow. Keep up the good work man
Thanks for the support. We’ve had several tti combats come thru my store now. I shoot a lot of compensated guns in competition and you gotta remember to use hotter ammunition to cycle any compensated gun. Break in the gun with some 124nato and that should do the trick.
@@tacticalbert The other recoil spring that came with the TTI made the out of battery malfunction happen more frequently. I think the problem is something to do with the extractor.
On the TTI Combat issue, Canik believes it’s a recoil spring problem combined with underpowered ammunition. Most people, myself included, try to buy ammunition as inexpensively as reasonable. I spend a lot of time at the range practicing,so I go through a lot of ammunition, mostly in bulk (500 to 1000 round lots) and quite a bit of it is common 115 gr. ball. This doesn’t have a high enough power value to function properly in a precision firearm, like the TTI Combat, or in today’s micro compacts which feature much tighter tolerance’s than full sized pistols. Canik customer service reps have advised me to shoot 124 gr. or heavier ammunition.
Bought mine Nov. 2024- simply oiled the rails and took it to the range and had a dead trigger (out of battery) 1 out of 7 times. Cleaned it with Break Free CLP, and it went down to 1 out 10. Took it home, cleaned it thourghly with MC-25, oiled it with Lucas, and it went through 150 rounds of cheap 115g and 125g without a hiccup. So, know that it's important to clean these with a real solvent like MC-25 or Hoppes... Also be sure to take a pick and clean behind the extractor. Once you get the machine oil and whatever they sprayed at the factory off, and put a good gun oil on it, she'll run.
About time someone came out with a video explaining all this! When people were first getting this firearm and started complaining about ALL of these issues, every TH-camr was like "I don't have any issues, this gun is awesome!" Yeah, ok. When the gun actually works, it's extremely accurate. Looks like I'll be having my gunsmith fix these issues. Thanks for the video. You get a like and a subscribe from me!
I hope this fixes everyone's issue, but no consumer should have to take their new gun to a gunsmith nor should they have to fix these issues themselves. Assuming this is the problem, it's a QC issue with Canik and this should have been caught during testing. Most people buy these for self defense. The gun not working properly is a gigantic problem, if it doesn't fire, when it's needed.
@@crabjoenone of these so called fixes have been able to correct the problems I have had with failure to return to battery, miss feeds and dead triggers. I’ve sent it back to Century Arms for repairs and the problems persisted. I’ve replaced the recoil spring three time and the striker assembly once. Finally Canik agreed to replace it. I sent it back to them, waited two months and they sent the same pistol back with a new recoil spring. I had numerous email conversations with customer service. Finally they agreed they had made an error and once again promised to contact my FFL with instructions to return it yet again. This was a week ago. My FFL says they haven’t received any instructions from Century Arms. This has been dragging on since August, this time. I’m still waiting for Canik to honor their warranty. Maybe I need an attorney.
Man, this 4:37 was exactly what I was looking for. Just bought this new pistol and was dissembling it for the first time, when I pressed this pin and the whole extractor went byebye. Thanks to your video I found out that I was missing the extractor pin, which was hiding behind something-.- finally the mystery is solved and the weapon is fixed - thanks again!!
I know is a little late to make a comment about this video, but I was battling to buy this gun for a long time! Always watching videos of people complaining about that but no one showed how to fix or what was the problem! So I just want to say “THANK YOU” was all I need to know to make my decision of buying this gun! Great video! 🙏🏼👏🏼
I just purchased mine two weeks ago. Polished the ramp, cleaned took it to the range and not one malfunction. Shot fmj and hollow point with no issues. Also shot 115 grn fll metal jacket and no problems.
In my first 50 bullets using my new Canik SFT, I had 3 failures to feed, 2 failures to extract and 2 out of battery problems. The last 20 shots went off without a hitch. I think it was grip related not sure, did not see any burs but didn't fix anything either. I must say that my ammo is loaded below factor on average though so that might also be part of my problem...
Have read most every comment this video along with the very useful information contained in the video, there is some worthwhile information in the comments as well, but I think there is some confusion that I may or may not help to clear up. As many have noted NATO ammunition is strongly loaded to a little hotter spec, which is why for example a 5.56 NATO works out a little hotter than .223. 9 mm NATO ammo just also a little hotter than average US ammo, working out to something more akin to +P, which is why virtually all modern handguns you purchase today are certified to run +P, but not necessarily +P+, as there is no exact spec for that hottest designation. Anyway, from what I hear the original recoil springs were 18 lb and we're lowered to 16 lb to help cycle normal US SAMMI spec ammo. It's important to know that while a 2 lb drop can absolutely help to make it more reliable with a little lighter ammo, it is also still fine to shoot the hotter loads through it. I purchased mine back in March of 2024, so it came with their current, updated springs. I'm pretty close to 1500 rounds through it, of which about half has been +P, with zero issues. I actually hear the difference more than feel it. The striker spring is more interesting. After reading they came with a 10 lb striker spring, which is absolutely absurd, I ordered the replacement from Springco. It is not only designed for this pistol specifically, but it was designed for this pistol specifically taking into account the smaller and lighter striker in the sub compacts, lighter than you'll find in a Glock, etc. it's the 29 Newton, or a little over 6 lb, as that was tested to be as light as possible and still remain 100% reliable, including firing ammo with very hard primers. Even though mine is a newer pistol, I can verify that the striker spring that came out was a monstrosity compared to the more appropriately sized Springco that I installed. It did help lighten and smooth the trigger just a tad, but the design is so good that the difference isn't as big as one would think. Back to the factory installed Striker spring, not only has it contributed to things not going fully into battery, but in conjunction with the old heavier recoil springs, there have been a few cases where the rounds being loaded fired with the weapons slightly out of battery. To my knowledge, no one was injured by this, nor were the weapons injured. However, as you can imagine, the owners were very displeased with this. Anyway, among other things, the replacement Springco striker spring also prevents that from happening. I'm not sure at this point in time if this is still necessary, but I would definitely recommend any MC 9 owner checking for the issue described in the video, and taking care of that with a few strokes of a file if needed. I would also recommend any MC 9 owner order and install the Springco striker spring. You'll maintain reliability, gain a slightly improved trigger, and resolve a potential safety issue. Just my two cents, hope everybody does well.
I’ve shot 175 rounds out of it so far. Out of battery issue about 35ish times. I went in knowing this may be an issue though. We’ll see if I can fix it. I appreciate the pointers. You’re the best.
@@aaronq19 Too early to tell but it’s had no problems the last 125 rounds I put through it. I took a small file and trimmed down some of the plastic until it was flush or below the metal rails. I also emailed century and they sent a new spring.
@@Tom-o5q5p awesome I polished my feed ramp but also shaved down the polymer. I have a new recoil spring in the way and I’m also going to polish the top of the inside of my slide because there’s brass on it. I don’t know the name of it but the long metal part on the inside of the slide.
@@aaronq19 I never had to polish the feed ramp. The 1st hollow point I tried chambering failed but since then I’ve had no failure to feeds with hollow points. I only had 20 rounds at the time but I rechambered them multiple times.
I didn't want to sand the polymer rails until I tested the new spring Century sent me. I had 3 failures in the first 500 rounds and none afterwards. If you shoot 1500-2000 rounds through the pistol it wears down the excess materiial on its own. Although I am now satisfied with my Canik's reliabilty a 2000 round breakin period is unacceptable. I could have bought a VP9 for the cost of additional test ammo.
I’ve got just about that round count through my gun now and no issues. So sometimes all you need is a little TLC so you don’t have to burn through all that ammo for “break in”.
@@tacticalbert You sped up the process by sanding down the frame. I was reluctant to do that. I typically do not buy a carry piece that requires gunsmithing to make it work.
Greetings. I followed the instructions, wearing down the polymer a little. And my problems are over. Of a hundred bullets, none jammed. Thank you very much for this video.
couldnt figure out where to start diagnosing the issue so this video helps out TREMENDOUSLY. awesome work man really appreciate the time you took to make this vid.
I'm down with the polishing and smoothing the extractor. But, if you mic the slide and the rails, and you'll find that the slide shouldn't even come into contact with the plastic by the metal rails. So, I find that part confusing. I'm about a month and 500-rounds in, zero issues of any type. I did order the 29-newton striker spring from Sprinco and install that a couple hundred rounds ago, and still no issues. (OEM Striker spring was nuts!) Glad you worked out the issues and thanks for the tips.
I thought the same about the rails. But when I took out the barrel, recoil spring, firing pin, and just inserted the slide, I was able to recreate the out of battery friction. After sanding it down, it was smoother.
So yeah, I get it. Canik’s way to approach this issue was to give you a stronger recoil spring. . It will slam that slide forward, negating any of the extractor spring or plastic issues.
@@tacticalbert Indeed, cycling the slide on this pistol is the most difficult of any that we have, including my wife's P365XL Rose. The Rose is stiff, but nothing like the MC9. The Canik still cycles the slide quite reliably, likely due to the super low slide mass, and it works in a weird way. Perhaps its just because the backstrap fills and fits my hand better, but I find the MC9 more pleasant to shoot than the P365XL. That surprised me.
Finally an honest review of someone not complaining saying “iM nOt a gUnSmItH” that’s the dumbest shit I’ve ever heard. I like that you understand that you’re buying a 400 dollar micro not a 900 dollar micro. It’s pretty simple people. If you have issues with it don’t be scared to try to fix it. I fixed this issue with my wife’s nail file. Imo you shouldn’t own a firearm if you’re scared to take it apart.
I purchased mine about a week ago and put 250 rounds through it. I tried to replicate every issue I have seen and could not get any to replicate. It just ran everything I could put through it.
Bought an MC9 a few days ago. Ran 40 rounds through it. I had 2 failures to go into battery. The salesman said it needs to run about 200 rounds to break in. Not satisfied with that response, I found this video and sure enough the slide rails had those raied edges. I trimmed them down level with the metal and oiled it up. The slide is much smoother when racking. I'll be heading to the range soon to try it out. I have high hopes for this pistol. Thanks for the great video!
Many pistols from Europe are based on 124 gr nato 9mm and need 124 ammo during breakin period. This is not new to canik, HK, CZ, etc. maybe it won’t happen to all but very common. Usually after a few hundred rounds all good. But thanks for your info as well.
Same fixes for the same problems with 1911s. Polish the feed ramp, extractor hook and guide rails. My guess is, the problem on this gun is the extractor and/or burrs on the frame. While polishing the feed ramp and chamber mouth are fine, the 9mm is a tapered cartridge, rather than a straight cartridge like the .45 ACP, and tends to feed into the chamber easily. But again, a polished feed ramp never hurt anything. Be sure to use only a felt polishing "bob" and a mild abrasive polishing compound. I use "Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish". Do not use any sort of abrasive burr or wheel.
@@john-ck8sw Why is this BS? He said he has had no issues in 1300rds with his firearm as of December 8, 2024. Many people that have bought the later Canik METE MC9's have been reporting no problems so far.
Really appreciate this video. I was actually planning to go get this as my new EDC tomorrow morning and was somewhat concerned about some of the issues I’ve been seeing but thanks to your video I’m good to go on it now!
Quite honestly, like I’ve said, in other comments, this only happens to a few. And they are few and far in between. These are just reliability checks that I do anyway.
GREAT, great video! I love my Mete and have had NO issues with it but I've been scared about what I have been hearing from others. Nice to see this easy fix that you might be able to DIY if you have these issues.
Thank you so much for you detailed explanation. I feel more confident purchasing an mc9 now. Will be inspecting the canik at the store before purchase and if they have a problem with that I will go somewhere else. I personally think that trigger looks great and looks like it improves the mush considerably. Not that caniks need an aftermarket trigger, but improvement is always good. Love my Mete SFX pro and hope to add the baby brother shortly.
It might be worth testing it with an optic on. In some cases, the optic screws can interfere with the extractor and it gets so tight that it stays behind the round instead of capturing the slot by the rim.
I’m probably going to do this just in case. Thank you for the video. I saw someone comment a gun smith talked about this fix. I haven’t shot mine yet but definitely going to look. I know people say you shouldn’t have to work on your gun out of the box but honestly if you don’t have a choice and it’s a good gun. I don’t know doesn’t seem like a big deal being that it just requires some love and minor fixing. Thanks again!
Another youtuber said his MC9 didn't develop the out of battery syndrome until 700 rounds in. That would seem to indicate something else going on as the parts wore in vs rough manufacturing (said he cleaned/lubed after every range trip also). He was still working with Century Arms on getting it resolved, but that would be a deal breaker for a prospective CCW piece.
Yeah, I just purchased this gun. (After some great reviews). Well, the honeymoon is over. I took it out today. Shot some basic range 9mm (Blazer "brass", 115gr) and also some Atlanta 115gr range ammo. So, not good. Stove pipes, failure to feed, Not ejecting, sometimes no slide hold open after last shot. This coming from a retired LEO of 20 years, firearms instructor at the local\state\ and federal level, graduate of the FBI HRT swat schools and I have never in my life had a gun so bad right out of the box as this Canik Mete MC9. It functions with some of the defensive 115 gr Altalnta, but that was it. I was going to make this my EDC carry, but not at the moment. The magazine not dropping out of the mag well is disappointing. So, I have contact Canik and requested advise on these issues. I have a Holosun 407k and the accuracy is superb. At this moment though, I would not carry the Mete MC9, nor can I recommend this gun until these issues are resolved.
Great Video, thanks for the time spent. I still have issue with round going into battery. But all malfunctions occurres with 124 grain (heavy load amo) and not with 115 grain?! Can some one guess why?? I am in Turkiye and Canik gave great interest and support but my problem is still not fixed with 124 grain amo
It appears Canik has quality control issues. The fix for mine was to replace the heavy Canik factory striker spring with a Glock 6lb striker spring. 6lb spring also improves trigger pull. My recoil spring is 16lb.
That is one hell of a find. I am an Advanced Glock armorer and would have never thought to try a Glock 6lb spring. That sounds awesome, I am going to try that out on one of my test MC9's. I usually buy two. One stock and one to modify and upgrade various ways. Nice find!
Ive now tried the Glock 6lb and a taran tact 4.5 hahahah. The 6lbs improved the pull weight tremendously. The 4.5 was just ridiculous. 6lb tested fine with 5 different rounds. Didn’t test the 4.5 yet. But I would never carry it.
can u please share the link for it. I just got a Canik tp9 elite SC and I am having the same issue and I am thinking about trying the striker spring for it.
@douglassantos8918 Sorry, there is no link to share. Caniks were originally set up to run NATO 124 gr full power ammo. They replaced the 18lb recoil spring with the 16lb spring for our weaker 115 gr loads. They should have also gone with a lighter striker spring . It's all about the ammo & springs working together.
that frame polymer standing proud of the metal seems to be the big fix. Saw someone else who swapped to a lighter striker spring and said that helps...... what I wonder is, while your solution makes sense for a new pistol having issues in the first 100 rounds.... how would either of these issues present at the 700+ round count? I would think "burrs and spring issues" would resolve after 700+ rounds, not get worse....maybe a weak spring gets weaker, but not over sprung.... either way GREAT info, restores some faith in this pistol.....
100% agreed. We’ve been testing two mc9’s at our store and the other one works perfect. Both have nearly 500-800 rounds now. Mine had issues like many I’ve seen on TH-cam and this was just a quick video to help people learn more about their $450 investment.
If you don't own one you won't have to modify it big modification running a fine file over the plastic to remove some plastic burrs that probably happened when the trigger and rail system was installed your right it should have been taken care of at the factory it's a simple fix you don't need to take it to a gunsmith
@@gloriamaletta8667 I manage a gun store, and you would not believe the amount of customers we see that won’t even field strip their gun for cleaning. Some people are just afraid of working on their guns.
@@tacticalbert l do a basic pistol breakdown of every new gun slide barrel guide rod and frame submerge the parts in 1/2 gallon of mineral spirits mixed with 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil solution and scrub everything with a tooth brush scrub barrel with nylon barrel brush the amount of dirt and dark grit is unbelievable from a new gun when finished pour it back into bottle through a funnel with a coffee filter to reuse many times when new it has a pink red color over time it turns brown after 7-8 uses then l discard it and make a fresh batch oil slide rails well and slide rail channels after cleaning l run my guns well oiled even pull slide back to slide catch and oil inner guide rod shaft then work the slide 5-6 times and wipe it down well
@@tacticalbert I've ran 300 trouble free round through my Canik MC9 but did check plastic just before slide rails and noticed the plastic on both front rails were slightly higher and the right back side took 15 minutes to file them down even with the metal with a small file then took mothers aluminium polish polished the shit out of slide rail tabs and feed ramp and chamber of barrel it's all slick and extremely smooth to the touch after watching your video and then oiled smooth is always better for guns thanks for the heads up info
“ Ok 👌 “ lol, but that’s really good to know about. I’ll spread the news. You have my dream job and I love the knowledge you have. How does one get into gunsmithing and managing a gun store?
yeah the problem is, with most gun stores, you're gonna take a big hit with a trade-in. if youre not comfortable working on your own gun, just send it back to canik for repair.
@@TheCap10Jmoski if this is your only carry gun, then, yes, get it fixed and don’t carry it until you’re comfortable and tested it with several hundred rounds. Just don’t give up on it. Mine works fantastic now. This past weekend, I went head to head on a dueling tree against a guy who was shooting with a CZ scorpion, and I still beat him with this mc9.
Continually being out of battery is a serious issue it would been nice to see these burrs so they could be perhaps traced back to a bad batch this particular store recived I’ve over 2,500 with little to no issue.
You should have filmed those things - "the before"....not only show "the after"...and I'm not talking about the filling process,we all know how TH-cam censorship works. It is somewhat good that you put this out eitherway
Great video. My next EDC purchase was going to be between the TP9 Elite SC and the METE MC9. With that said, I saw all of the issues related to the MC9 and was worried about buying it and having issues. The Elite SC is a great gun too, but really really like the small size of the MC9 and the 12/15 capacity of the each, but not the size of the SC. I have a TP9SF, and love it and the trigger on it. And I shoot much better with it, compared to a Taurus G3C I just recently bought for EDC. The Taurus is getting sold and I am going with the MC9. Interestingly enough, this is not the first time I have heard this exact issue, the poly frame behind metal frame rails, being the issue. The timing if seeing this video is also great coming up in my feed, as I am looking to purchase next week, and hoping to get a good Black Friday deal on the MC9. Thanks for making this video.
Honestly sometimes the internet just blows up these issues and makes it seem like a bigger thing than it really is. You might not have any issues at all.
By process of elimination, my recoil spring was messed up but it wasn't the entire problem. I replace the messed up recoil spring and still had the same issues. I removed the extractor, same problem. Removed the firing pin.. no problem. There's something goofy going on with the firing pin assembly. (I need to dig further into it).. 1st impression shows the main spring on it being too long and buldging against the firing pin bushing.
@tacticalbert I did remove the recoil spring.. heated it up & pressed flat the end of it. Also, I did shorten the striker spring but I think I removed too much so I'm using a g19 striker spring. It runs like a champ now.. coincidentally, Century Arms sent me a new recoil spring assembly about a week after I got it running good. So now I guess I have a back up. It has its bugs but is an excellent compact once those bugs are worked out.
Thanks for figuring this out! It’s been 9 months now and was just wondering if people are still running into this issue? I’m looking for my first firearm and the mc9 was really going to be my first choice… until watching some videos about this particular problem. Is it worth it taking the chance with this firearm?
Anyone who had an issue and went to canik about it got a recoil spring and they said it worked fine after that. I don’t see why you shouldn’t get one. They shoot awesome.
I was messing with the extraction spring on mine and improved the action a lot, but after Canik sent me a replacement recoil spring it fixed it 100% Seems like that’s all that needed in most cases.
Mine has a problem with certain JHP ammo. The round jams into the bottom of the ramp when the slides back, insert the loaded magazine and release the slid lever. It makes 9mm ammo into 380 size rounds.
Thank you for sharing ..I'm having that issue. At least I know where and what to look for so I can enjoy it more. Can you make some videos how to switch triggers please.
Hm, wasn't aware they were having this issue. Good info, I'm still interested in getting one. Unless by the time I get around to it the HK VP9CC makes it stateside. Pretty sure that will end up being the best all around micro 9 for me, especially since they're apparently going to have paddle release grip modules available.
I have an issue, had Mc9 barrel ceracoated getting wedged when returning charged position any suggestions? or where can I order original barrel Canik doesn't ship to Guam.
Really appreciate the video wanted to ask u for a 4 month update, are u still issue free, did you have to do any other modification/part replacement? Thanks for your time
Thank you for asking. I’ve carried this gun daily and I train about 10 minutes a day dry firing and whenever I’m at the range I make sure to send a couple of mags through it. I have had no more issues. The other employee at my shop has no issues with his either. We have since installed the springco walther/canik trigger springs - making the freedomsmith even better.
Great video. I will try these tricks tonight and will try it out on Monday. Was your failure to go in to battery so bad, you had to mortar your slide to eject the round. Every time mine did this, it jammed pretty good. Sounds like i may have a lot of excess plastic??
Before I make any modifications I always wanna narrow down the issue. For me, I removed the barrel, guide rod and the firing pin… put the slide back on and that’s when I discovered the excess friction. Some have stated it was an oversprung extractor spring. Either way, my issues have been resolved. Runs like butter.
This is why I wait to see if they get the bugs worked out. I don’t care what anybody says, you should not have to be a kitchen table gunsmith with a brand new gun.
Thanks for the video. After installing the new trigger did you trigger bar rub ever so slightly? After I installed my Freedomsmith trigger I noticed with the firearm assembled the trigger pull was ever so slightly gritty and found the back “flange” is rubbing ever so slightly. How could I fix that if possible?
You should make a procedure video to show how to finish that stuff on the gun, then send it to Century Arms as a training video so they can do it from the factory like God and John Moses Browning intended.
This doesn’t appear to be everyone across the board, I have about 200 rounds through mine now and zero issues. Not to say they aren’t coming but it is a newer pistol I think some issues are expected and this is in my opinion a fairly minor issue for it being so new. Still plan on picking up a Glock 43x and p365 I shot all 3 together at range and have no regrets for the canik purchase. Also price isn’t bad at all 399 I paid before taxes.
Does anyone know if this problem has been fixed by Canik? I was looking at getting this as my new EDC, I wouldn’t mind doing what he did in the video. Does anyone have any other suggestions for an EDC?
They’ve been sending newer stronger recoil spring assembly and calling it good. I came to this conclusion when I took off the barrel and guide rod. Put the slide back in and you can feel/see the friction from the plastic. Combine that with an extractor spring that’s really tight and a guide rod that could use a little more umph… that’s probably why some have these issues. I’ve got 2000 rds thru mine now. No more issues.
Great video. Mine started having the same issue at 500 rounds, along with failure to feed issues. I sent it back to Canik and all they did was replace the recoil spring. I got it back last week and I'm still having the same issues. I'm following the instructions in your video now. Just polished the feedramp. What file did you use for the extractor?
@@tacticalbert update: last Wednesday I went to the range and shot 124g Blazer, and now I was having out of battery. I’ll look into a striker spring and do what you mentioned in the video
@@tacticalbert I may have sanded part of the metal when talking about the polymer spots on the frame. Should I go ahead and polish that metal? I am racking the slide just casually with no magazine and it like the slide gets a little caught anyway, such as if it wants to have an out of battery. Could it be that I need to polish that metal or do you think it could be something else?
I've had the gun for about 3 weeks now as a edc. and I've range fired about 473 rounds so far... not a lot I know but that's 473 rounds with no issues. has always returned to battery and ejected very cleanly and quickly. I think its people who either aren't holding it correctly when firing or honest just got a dud. but I saw all the "issues" with this gun before purchasing and still decided to buy it. and it was a very good decision because the gun has performed amazingly since purchase and about 500 rounds.
I’ve still got a lot more to learn when it comes to firearms, but what about the grip causes out of battery? I’ve never had a problem with out of battery, but for some reason, I was using snap caps earlier today and the out of battery issues became present.
What ammo are you confident in using for edc
It may be limp wristing or ammo as you say, but this same thing is happening to my new MC9L, and I use quality ammo, and 100% am not limp wristing it. I bought both the L and LS at the same time. The LS has had no issues. Hopefully this fix works.
Update. I used very fine 900grit paper and sanded the polymer top rail so they were even with the metal guides and a couple of quick swipes on the inner side of the extractor.
Went to the range and it worked perfectly! Thanks to videos like this that point us in the right direction!
For you guys having issues going into battery, change the striker spring.
Canik’s striker springs are over sprung, that’s the reason why it stays out of battery but when you press the trigger it will come forward because is releasing the pressure of the striker. If it was a problem with the frame or the feed ramp the slide wouldn’t come forward after pressing the trigger, it will remain in the same position. Go to Galloway Precisions and order the 4 pounds striker spring.
The gun is made for 124 gr. NATO rounds/not the low power US ammo ,Needs 150+ or more power factor loads for the set of springs shipped with Gun
Bro, don’t listen to the annoying ass commenters mentioning “m’kay” or what ever. You went out of your way to provide useful info and I appreciate it. I’m having this issue with my brand new $1000 TTI combat and I tried what you recommended here (except for polish) . I’ll see how it goes at the range tomorrow. Keep up the good work man
Thanks for the support. We’ve had several tti combats come thru my store now. I shoot a lot of compensated guns in competition and you gotta remember to use hotter ammunition to cycle any compensated gun. Break in the gun with some 124nato and that should do the trick.
How did it work out? I am having the same issue with my TTI combat.
@@Nghthawkkuse hotter ammo. There’s also another recoil spring in the box. Try that one.
@@tacticalbert The other recoil spring that came with the TTI made the out of battery malfunction happen more frequently. I think the problem is something to do with the extractor.
On the TTI Combat issue, Canik believes it’s a recoil spring problem combined with underpowered ammunition. Most people, myself included, try to buy ammunition as inexpensively as reasonable. I spend a lot of time at the range practicing,so I go through a lot of ammunition, mostly in bulk (500 to 1000 round lots) and quite a bit of it is common 115 gr. ball. This doesn’t have a high enough power value to function properly in a precision firearm, like the TTI Combat, or in today’s micro compacts which feature much tighter tolerance’s than full sized pistols. Canik customer service reps have advised me to shoot 124 gr. or heavier ammunition.
Bought mine Nov. 2024- simply oiled the rails and took it to the range and had a dead trigger (out of battery) 1 out of 7 times. Cleaned it with Break Free CLP, and it went down to 1 out 10. Took it home, cleaned it thourghly with MC-25, oiled it with Lucas, and it went through 150 rounds of cheap 115g and 125g without a hiccup.
So, know that it's important to clean these with a real solvent like MC-25 or Hoppes... Also be sure to take a pick and clean behind the extractor. Once you get the machine oil and whatever they sprayed at the factory off, and put a good gun oil on it, she'll run.
About time someone came out with a video explaining all this! When people were first getting this firearm and started complaining about ALL of these issues, every TH-camr was like "I don't have any issues, this gun is awesome!" Yeah, ok. When the gun actually works, it's extremely accurate. Looks like I'll be having my gunsmith fix these issues. Thanks for the video. You get a like and a subscribe from me!
I hope this fixes everyone's issue, but no consumer should have to take their new gun to a gunsmith nor should they have to fix these issues themselves. Assuming this is the problem, it's a QC issue with Canik and this should have been caught during testing.
Most people buy these for self defense. The gun not working properly is a gigantic problem, if it doesn't fire, when it's needed.
@@crabjoenone of these so called fixes have been able to correct the problems I have had with failure to return to battery, miss feeds and dead triggers. I’ve sent it back to Century Arms for repairs and the problems persisted. I’ve replaced the recoil spring three time and the striker assembly once. Finally Canik agreed to replace it. I sent it back to them, waited two months and they sent the same pistol back with a new recoil spring. I had numerous email conversations with customer service. Finally they agreed they had made an error and once again promised to contact my FFL with instructions to return it yet again. This was a week ago. My FFL says they haven’t received any instructions from Century Arms. This has been dragging on since August, this time. I’m still waiting for Canik to honor their warranty. Maybe I need an attorney.
@@gordonmacklin3192 sorry to hear this man. that's rough.
Man, this 4:37 was exactly what I was looking for. Just bought this new pistol and was dissembling it for the first time, when I pressed this pin and the whole extractor went byebye. Thanks to your video I found out that I was missing the extractor pin, which was hiding behind something-.- finally the mystery is solved and the weapon is fixed - thanks again!!
I know is a little late to make a comment about this video, but I was battling to buy this gun for a long time! Always watching videos of people complaining about that but no one showed how to fix or what was the problem! So I just want to say “THANK YOU” was all I need to know to make my decision of buying this gun! Great video! 🙏🏼👏🏼
I just purchased mine two weeks ago. Polished the ramp, cleaned took it to the range and not one malfunction. Shot fmj and hollow point with no issues. Also shot 115 grn fll metal jacket and no problems.
In my first 50 bullets using my new Canik SFT, I had 3 failures to feed, 2 failures to extract and 2 out of battery problems. The last 20 shots went off without a hitch. I think it was grip related not sure, did not see any burs but didn't fix anything either. I must say that my ammo is loaded below factor on average though so that might also be part of my problem...
Have read most every comment this video along with the very useful information contained in the video, there is some worthwhile information in the comments as well, but I think there is some confusion that I may or may not help to clear up.
As many have noted NATO ammunition is strongly loaded to a little hotter spec, which is why for example a 5.56 NATO works out a little hotter than .223. 9 mm NATO ammo just also a little hotter than average US ammo, working out to something more akin to +P, which is why virtually all modern handguns you purchase today are certified to run +P, but not necessarily +P+, as there is no exact spec for that hottest designation. Anyway, from what I hear the original recoil springs were 18 lb and we're lowered to 16 lb to help cycle normal US SAMMI spec ammo. It's important to know that while a 2 lb drop can absolutely help to make it more reliable with a little lighter ammo, it is also still fine to shoot the hotter loads through it. I purchased mine back in March of 2024, so it came with their current, updated springs. I'm pretty close to 1500 rounds through it, of which about half has been +P, with zero issues. I actually hear the difference more than feel it.
The striker spring is more interesting. After reading they came with a 10 lb striker spring, which is absolutely absurd, I ordered the replacement from Springco. It is not only designed for this pistol specifically, but it was designed for this pistol specifically taking into account the smaller and lighter striker in the sub compacts, lighter than you'll find in a Glock, etc. it's the 29 Newton, or a little over 6 lb, as that was tested to be as light as possible and still remain 100% reliable, including firing ammo with very hard primers. Even though mine is a newer pistol, I can verify that the striker spring that came out was a monstrosity compared to the more appropriately sized Springco that I installed. It did help lighten and smooth the trigger just a tad, but the design is so good that the difference isn't as big as one would think.
Back to the factory installed Striker spring, not only has it contributed to things not going fully into battery, but in conjunction with the old heavier recoil springs, there have been a few cases where the rounds being loaded fired with the weapons slightly out of battery. To my knowledge, no one was injured by this, nor were the weapons injured. However, as you can imagine, the owners were very displeased with this. Anyway, among other things, the replacement Springco striker spring also prevents that from happening.
I'm not sure at this point in time if this is still necessary, but I would definitely recommend any MC 9 owner checking for the issue described in the video, and taking care of that with a few strokes of a file if needed. I would also recommend any MC 9 owner order and install the Springco striker spring. You'll maintain reliability, gain a slightly improved trigger, and resolve a potential safety issue. Just my two cents, hope everybody does well.
I’ve shot 175 rounds out of it so far. Out of battery issue about 35ish times. I went in knowing this may be an issue though. We’ll see if I can fix it. I appreciate the pointers. You’re the best.
Hey man can you provide an update were you able to get it fixed
@@aaronq19 Too early to tell but it’s had no problems the last 125 rounds I put through it. I took a small file and trimmed down some of the plastic until it was flush or below the metal rails. I also emailed century and they sent a new spring.
@@Tom-o5q5p awesome I polished my feed ramp but also shaved down the polymer. I have a new recoil spring in the way and I’m also going to polish the top of the inside of my slide because there’s brass on it. I don’t know the name of it but the long metal part on the inside of the slide.
@@aaronq19 I never had to polish the feed ramp. The 1st hollow point I tried chambering failed but since then I’ve had no failure to feeds with hollow points. I only had 20 rounds at the time but I rechambered them multiple times.
I didn't want to sand the polymer rails until I tested the new spring Century sent me. I had 3 failures in the first 500 rounds and none afterwards. If you shoot 1500-2000 rounds through the pistol it wears down the excess materiial on its own. Although I am now satisfied with my Canik's reliabilty a 2000 round breakin period is unacceptable. I could have bought a VP9 for the cost of additional test ammo.
I’ve got just about that round count through my gun now and no issues. So sometimes all you need is a little TLC so you don’t have to burn through all that ammo for “break in”.
@@tacticalbert You sped up the process by sanding down the frame. I was reluctant to do that. I typically do not buy a carry piece that requires gunsmithing to make it work.
@@johnshepherd9676 So you do not use Glocks or 1911s? I kid...I kid!!
@@user-nm7ru9nf9h I use both.
Greetings. I followed the instructions, wearing down the polymer a little. And my problems are over. Of a hundred bullets, none jammed. Thank you very much for this video.
Very nice analyzing and step through instructions, thank you a lot!
couldnt figure out where to start diagnosing the issue so this video helps out TREMENDOUSLY. awesome work man really appreciate the time you took to make this vid.
I'm down with the polishing and smoothing the extractor. But, if you mic the slide and the rails, and you'll find that the slide shouldn't even come into contact with the plastic by the metal rails. So, I find that part confusing. I'm about a month and 500-rounds in, zero issues of any type. I did order the 29-newton striker spring from Sprinco and install that a couple hundred rounds ago, and still no issues. (OEM Striker spring was nuts!) Glad you worked out the issues and thanks for the tips.
I thought the same about the rails. But when I took out the barrel, recoil spring, firing pin, and just inserted the slide, I was able to recreate the out of battery friction. After sanding it down, it was smoother.
@@tacticalbert well done, and thank you.
So yeah, I get it. Canik’s way to approach this issue was to give you a stronger recoil spring. . It will slam that slide forward, negating any of the extractor spring or plastic issues.
@@tacticalbert Indeed, cycling the slide on this pistol is the most difficult of any that we have, including my wife's P365XL Rose. The Rose is stiff, but nothing like the MC9. The Canik still cycles the slide quite reliably, likely due to the super low slide mass, and it works in a weird way. Perhaps its just because the backstrap fills and fits my hand better, but I find the MC9 more pleasant to shoot than the P365XL. That surprised me.
Finally an honest review of someone not complaining saying “iM nOt a gUnSmItH” that’s the dumbest shit I’ve ever heard. I like that you understand that you’re buying a 400 dollar micro not a 900 dollar micro. It’s pretty simple people. If you have issues with it don’t be scared to try to fix it. I fixed this issue with my wife’s nail file. Imo you shouldn’t own a firearm if you’re scared to take it apart.
Great video. Have about 500 rounds through mine. No issues. Love this gun. But great info. Thanks.
I purchased mine about a week ago and put 250 rounds through it. I tried to replicate every issue I have seen and could not get any to replicate. It just ran everything I could put through it.
this video was just for people who had issues. glad yours doesn't!
Bought an MC9 a few days ago. Ran 40 rounds through it. I had 2 failures to go into battery. The salesman said it needs to run about 200 rounds to break in. Not satisfied with that response, I found this video and sure enough the slide rails had those raied edges. I trimmed them down level with the metal and oiled it up. The slide is much smoother when racking. I'll be heading to the range soon to try it out. I have high hopes for this pistol. Thanks for the great video!
Make sure you polish the extractor as well
Many pistols from Europe are based on 124 gr nato 9mm and need 124 ammo during breakin period. This is not new to canik, HK, CZ, etc. maybe it won’t happen to all but very common. Usually after a few hundred rounds all good. But thanks for your info as well.
Same fixes for the same problems with 1911s. Polish the feed ramp, extractor hook and guide rails. My guess is, the problem on this gun is the extractor and/or burrs on the frame.
While polishing the feed ramp and chamber mouth are fine, the 9mm is a tapered cartridge, rather than a straight cartridge like the .45 ACP, and tends to feed into the chamber easily. But again, a polished feed ramp never hurt anything.
Be sure to use only a felt polishing "bob" and a mild abrasive polishing compound. I use "Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish". Do not use any sort of abrasive burr or wheel.
I have as of Dec 8, 1300 rounds through mine. I have had no issues at all. I just do regular maintenance as i do to all my guns.
Bullshit
@@john-ck8sw Why is this BS? He said he has had no issues in 1300rds with his firearm as of December 8, 2024. Many people that have bought the later Canik METE MC9's have been reporting no problems so far.
Really appreciate this video. I was actually planning to go get this as my new EDC tomorrow morning and was somewhat concerned about some of the issues I’ve been seeing but thanks to your video I’m good to go on it now!
Quite honestly, like I’ve said, in other comments, this only happens to a few. And they are few and far in between. These are just reliability checks that I do anyway.
Hey did you ever end up buying it? I’m in the same boat and really hoping the newer versions are good out of the box!
GREAT, great video! I love my Mete and have had NO issues with it but I've been scared about what I have been hearing from others. Nice to see this easy fix that you might be able to DIY if you have these issues.
Thank you so much for you detailed explanation. I feel more confident purchasing an mc9 now. Will be inspecting the canik at the store before purchase and if they have a problem with that I will go somewhere else. I personally think that trigger looks great and looks like it improves the mush considerably. Not that caniks need an aftermarket trigger, but improvement is always good. Love my Mete SFX pro and hope to add the baby brother shortly.
You don’t necessarily have to go somewhere else you can always ask the people working there if they do gunsmithing
It might be worth testing it with an optic on. In some cases, the optic screws can interfere with the extractor and it gets so tight that it stays behind the round instead of capturing the slot by the rim.
I’m probably going to do this just in case. Thank you for the video. I saw someone comment a gun smith talked about this fix. I haven’t shot mine yet but definitely going to look. I know people say you shouldn’t have to work on your gun out of the box but honestly if you don’t have a choice and it’s a good gun. I don’t know doesn’t seem like a big deal being that it just requires some love and minor fixing. Thanks again!
Another youtuber said his MC9 didn't develop the out of battery syndrome until 700 rounds in. That would seem to indicate something else going on as the parts wore in vs rough manufacturing (said he cleaned/lubed after every range trip also). He was still working with Century Arms on getting it resolved, but that would be a deal breaker for a prospective CCW piece.
I’m 2000 rds in and it’s smooth like butter. Hasn’t skipped a beat.
Yeah, I just purchased this gun. (After some great reviews). Well, the honeymoon is over. I took it out today. Shot some basic range 9mm (Blazer "brass", 115gr) and also some Atlanta 115gr range ammo. So, not good. Stove pipes, failure to feed, Not ejecting, sometimes no slide hold open after last shot. This coming from a retired LEO of 20 years, firearms instructor at the local\state\ and federal level, graduate of the FBI HRT swat schools and I have never in my life had a gun so bad right out of the box as this Canik Mete MC9. It functions with some of the defensive 115 gr Altalnta, but that was it. I was going to make this my EDC carry, but not at the moment. The magazine not dropping out of the mag well is disappointing. So, I have contact Canik and requested advise on these issues. I have a Holosun 407k and the accuracy is superb. At this moment though, I would not carry the Mete MC9, nor can I recommend this gun until these issues are resolved.
I’m about to track down a stronger spring for mine and try that as well.
Great Video, thanks for the time spent. I still have issue with round going into battery. But all malfunctions occurres with 124 grain (heavy load amo) and not with 115 grain?! Can some one guess why??
I am in Turkiye and Canik gave great interest and support but my problem is still not fixed with 124 grain amo
Would you be able to post a video of you shooting it? What brand ammo are you using? Simple solution is to stick with 115gr ammo.
It appears Canik has quality control issues. The fix for mine was to replace the heavy Canik factory striker spring with a Glock 6lb striker spring. 6lb spring also improves trigger pull. My recoil spring is 16lb.
That is one hell of a find. I am an Advanced Glock armorer and would have never thought to try a Glock 6lb spring. That sounds awesome, I am going to try that out on one of my test MC9's. I usually buy two. One stock and one to modify and upgrade various ways. Nice find!
Ive now tried the Glock 6lb and a taran tact 4.5 hahahah. The 6lbs improved the pull weight tremendously. The 4.5 was just ridiculous. 6lb tested fine with 5 different rounds. Didn’t test the 4.5 yet. But I would never carry it.
can u please share the link for it. I just got a Canik tp9 elite SC and I am having the same issue and I am thinking about trying the striker spring for it.
@douglassantos8918 Sorry, there is no link to share. Caniks were originally set up to run NATO 124 gr full power ammo. They replaced the 18lb recoil spring with the 16lb spring for our weaker 115 gr loads. They should have also gone with a lighter striker spring . It's all about the ammo & springs working together.
How does a striker spring affect slide velocity and going forward into battery?
that frame polymer standing proud of the metal seems to be the big fix. Saw someone else who swapped to a lighter striker spring and said that helps...... what I wonder is, while your solution makes sense for a new pistol having issues in the first 100 rounds.... how would either of these issues present at the 700+ round count? I would think "burrs and spring issues" would resolve after 700+ rounds, not get worse....maybe a weak spring gets weaker, but not over sprung.... either way GREAT info, restores some faith in this pistol.....
Thanks for the heads up, definitely field striping thr MC9 at the LGS before I pick mine up to inspect the polymer for burs haha
I know it’s only $450 pew pew but we shouldn’t have to modify or “fix” it.
100% agreed. We’ve been testing two mc9’s at our store and the other one works perfect. Both have nearly 500-800 rounds now. Mine had issues like many I’ve seen on TH-cam and this was just a quick video to help people learn more about their $450 investment.
If you don't own one you won't have to modify it big modification running a fine file over the plastic to remove some plastic burrs that probably happened when the trigger and rail system was installed your right it should have been taken care of at the factory it's a simple fix you don't need to take it to a gunsmith
@@gloriamaletta8667 I manage a gun store, and you would not believe the amount of customers we see that won’t even field strip their gun for cleaning. Some people are just afraid of working on their guns.
@@tacticalbert l do a basic pistol breakdown of every new gun slide barrel guide rod and frame submerge the parts in 1/2 gallon of mineral spirits mixed with 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil solution and scrub everything with a tooth brush scrub barrel with nylon barrel brush the amount of dirt and dark grit is unbelievable from a new gun when finished pour it back into bottle through a funnel with a coffee filter to reuse many times when new it has a pink red color over time it turns brown after 7-8 uses then l discard it and make a fresh batch oil slide rails well and slide rail channels after cleaning l run my guns well oiled even pull slide back to slide catch and oil inner guide rod shaft then work the slide 5-6 times and wipe it down well
@@tacticalbert I've ran 300 trouble free round through my Canik MC9 but did check plastic just before slide rails and noticed the plastic on both front rails were slightly higher and the right back side took 15 minutes to file them down even with the metal with a small file then took mothers aluminium polish polished the shit out of slide rail tabs and feed ramp and chamber of barrel it's all slick and extremely smooth to the touch after watching your video and then oiled smooth is always better for guns thanks for the heads up info
Excellent summary and fix of issue thanks! Subscribed
Awesome review..very tempted to pick one of these up
It’s a great gun. Hitting 6” plates at 25 yards from concealment on a 1.15” draw. Very accurate for a micro.
Good find. I seen on Colion's Video at I believe the 5:39 mark, you can see this happening but they didn't catch it. It's definitely out of battery
“ Ok 👌 “ lol, but that’s really good to know about. I’ll spread the news. You have my dream job and I love the knowledge you have. How does one get into gunsmithing and managing a gun store?
Excellent sleuthing sir! You are the guy who is good at his job. Canik must have hired the other guy.
I wish!
I have the same issue. I’m just going to trade mine in because I don’t feel comfortable having to fix a brand new pistol
yeah the problem is, with most gun stores, you're gonna take a big hit with a trade-in. if youre not comfortable working on your own gun, just send it back to canik for repair.
@@tacticalbert that’s a great point! Just super frustrating. First time I’ve had a firearm with issues
@@TheCap10Jmoski if this is your only carry gun, then, yes, get it fixed and don’t carry it until you’re comfortable and tested it with several hundred rounds. Just don’t give up on it. Mine works fantastic now. This past weekend, I went head to head on a dueling tree against a guy who was shooting with a CZ scorpion, and I still beat him with this mc9.
@@tacticalbert You probably beat him because you're a better shooter not because of the actual gun.
@@Shenmue06 both ;).
Someone said just keep putting rounds threw it and it fixes it self which kinda makes sense just need time for those plastic bits to where down
Maybe try the blue or off white latex gloves?
I also pee sitting down. 🙄
Continually being out of battery is a serious issue it would been nice to see these burrs so they could be perhaps traced back to a bad batch this particular store recived I’ve over 2,500 with little to no issue.
Amazingly helpful. Thank you kind sir.
You should have filmed those things - "the before"....not only show "the after"...and I'm not talking about the filling process,we all know how TH-cam censorship works. It is somewhat good that you put this out eitherway
Great video. My next EDC purchase was going to be between the TP9 Elite SC and the METE MC9. With that said, I saw all of the issues related to the MC9 and was worried about buying it and having issues. The Elite SC is a great gun too, but really really like the small size of the MC9 and the 12/15 capacity of the each, but not the size of the SC. I have a TP9SF, and love it and the trigger on it. And I shoot much better with it, compared to a Taurus G3C I just recently bought for EDC. The Taurus is getting sold and I am going with the MC9.
Interestingly enough, this is not the first time I have heard this exact issue, the poly frame behind metal frame rails, being the issue.
The timing if seeing this video is also great coming up in my feed, as I am looking to purchase next week, and hoping to get a good Black Friday deal on the MC9. Thanks for making this video.
Honestly sometimes the internet just blows up these issues and makes it seem like a bigger thing than it really is. You might not have any issues at all.
By process of elimination, my recoil spring was messed up but it wasn't the entire problem.
I replace the messed up recoil spring and still had the same issues. I removed the extractor, same problem. Removed the firing pin.. no problem. There's something goofy going on with the firing pin assembly. (I need to dig further into it).. 1st impression shows the main spring on it being too long and buldging against the firing pin bushing.
let me know what you think it is.
@tacticalbert I did remove the recoil spring.. heated it up & pressed flat the end of it. Also, I did shorten the striker spring but I think I removed too much so I'm using a g19 striker spring. It runs like a champ now.. coincidentally, Century Arms sent me a new recoil spring assembly about a week after I got it running good. So now I guess I have a back up. It has its bugs but is an excellent compact once those bugs are worked out.
I had the same issue but canik sent me a new recoil spring and problem solved. No issues since.
Me too. Free new spring. Canik is great
Great video explaining this issue..but seems to me to be serious quality control issue..
Change to a lighter striker spring and that will solve all the Canik out of the battery issue
Sounds like a lot of work for a weapon that should work out of the box
Good find. Bad insert molding.
very possible. i'm leaning more towards the extractor
Striker spring. Change to 29 Newton for less hot rounds and will solve the battery issue as well.
Thanks for figuring this out! It’s been 9 months now and was just wondering if people are still running into this issue? I’m looking for my first firearm and the mc9 was really going to be my first choice… until watching some videos about this particular problem. Is it worth it taking the chance with this firearm?
Anyone who had an issue and went to canik about it got a recoil spring and they said it worked fine after that. I don’t see why you shouldn’t get one. They shoot awesome.
I was messing with the extraction spring on mine and improved the action a lot, but after Canik sent me a replacement recoil spring it fixed it 100%
Seems like that’s all that needed in most cases.
It’s probably a combination of both. I’m leaning towards the extractor spring tension.
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
I always polish feed ramps/extractors with every new firearm
Same here. But apparently everyone thinks that a gun should work perfect from the factory with the thousands of variations of 9mm out there.
any recommended tutorial on _how_ to polish parts like this? I assume it's a bit more than just attacking the feed ramp with some sandpaper.
First I've heard of this and will now think twice before purchase. Most all the reviews were so glowing. Okay?
Try cleaning and lightly oiling it. Mite just work
Thanks for the tip!
Yes I got it cheap but spent 100 bucks on tools to finish building the gun. Believe I'll keep looking at compacts from ruger or sig.
Mine has a problem with certain JHP ammo. The round jams into the bottom of the ramp when the slides back, insert the loaded magazine and release the slid lever. It makes 9mm ammo into 380 size rounds.
The simple solution first is to try other hollow point ammo. Before you address anything on the gun. Not all guns like all ammo.
@@tacticalbert already did that. Barnes works great and is a very good self defense round.
Thank you for sharing ..I'm having that issue. At least I know where and what to look for so I can enjoy it more. Can you make some videos how to switch triggers please.
I just shot 200 rounds at a ranger yesterday after buying it last week it shot perfectly , so far so good
Awesome... Thank you for the video.
Thank you so much for this video!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Hm, wasn't aware they were having this issue. Good info, I'm still interested in getting one. Unless by the time I get around to it the HK VP9CC makes it stateside. Pretty sure that will end up being the best all around micro 9 for me, especially since they're apparently going to have paddle release grip modules available.
I’ve enjoyed my thus far but still plan on getting a Glock, no regrets for my canik 200 rounds in and loving it.
I have an issue, had Mc9 barrel ceracoated getting wedged when returning charged position any suggestions? or where can I order original barrel Canik doesn't ship to Guam.
Sand off all the cerakote
What is the brand and name of after market trigger interested in purchasing
Google “freedomsmith canik” trigger.
Man, that was a great video. Thanks
Yup. Was about to buy one today. Good thing I actually do quality control before buying. 😂.
wonder if switching the trigger did anything to yours?
The trigger seems excellent, but it definitely looks weird.
I put freedomsmith triggers on all my caniks.
@@tacticalbert I'm sure I'll get used to the looks.
It may look goofy but it definitely feels 👌👌👌
Mkay Mr.Mackey
Ok ok ok. 😄🤣
Really appreciate the video
wanted to ask u for a 4 month update, are u still issue free, did you have to do any other modification/part replacement?
Thanks for your time
Thank you for asking. I’ve carried this gun daily and I train about 10 minutes a day dry firing and whenever I’m at the range I make sure to send a couple of mags through it. I have had no more issues. The other employee at my shop has no issues with his either. We have since installed the springco walther/canik trigger springs - making the freedomsmith even better.
Great video. I will try these tricks tonight and will try it out on Monday. Was your failure to go in to battery so bad, you had to mortar your slide to eject the round. Every time mine did this, it jammed pretty good. Sounds like i may have a lot of excess plastic??
Before I make any modifications I always wanna narrow down the issue. For me, I removed the barrel, guide rod and the firing pin… put the slide back on and that’s when I discovered the excess friction. Some have stated it was an oversprung extractor spring. Either way, my issues have been resolved. Runs like butter.
@@tacticalbert Mine was 100% an issue with the polymer above the lugs. Trimmed them down and the pistol runs like a scalded ape.
This is why I wait to see if they get the bugs worked out. I don’t care what anybody says, you should not have to be a kitchen table gunsmith with a brand new gun.
Amen!
Thanks for the video. After installing the new trigger did you trigger bar rub ever so slightly? After I installed my Freedomsmith trigger I noticed with the firearm assembled the trigger pull was ever so slightly gritty and found the back “flange” is rubbing ever so slightly. How could I fix that if possible?
Find me on IG: tacticalbert and we’ll talk over DM. Show me where you think it’s rubbing.
I sent the message on IG with a couple videos. Thank you.
You should make a procedure video to show how to finish that stuff on the gun, then send it to Century Arms as a training video so they can do it from the factory like God and John Moses Browning intended.
Aww.. you sure know how to make a guy blush….
Good video thanks...question, did you use a dremel tool or a dimon for the filing?
thanks in advance!
Simple flat file works.
What about the drop test issues I’ve been hearing about
Very informative. Thank you Mr. Mackey.
the comment I was looking for 🤣
thanks for the fix! mmkay.
Isn't the greater issue that the gun is able to release the striker when not in battery?
Not an issue. It won’t be far enough to strike the round out of battery
Dang I really really wanted to get one but now I'm not so sure......
Nah. I'll still get one 😅
Excellent video. Thank you.
m'kay
they have these at a local shop for 349 should i trust it ?
hi sir info for the aftermarket trigger please nice video!
this is a freedomsmith trigger
This doesn’t appear to be everyone across the board, I have about 200 rounds through mine now and zero issues. Not to say they aren’t coming but it is a newer pistol I think some issues are expected and this is in my opinion a fairly minor issue for it being so new. Still plan on picking up a Glock 43x and p365 I shot all 3 together at range and have no regrets for the canik purchase. Also price isn’t bad at all 399 I paid before taxes.
Mine has passed all the tests and I’m feeling pretty confident carrying it. Shoots great and very accurate
Does anyone know if this problem has been fixed by Canik? I was looking at getting this as my new EDC, I wouldn’t mind doing what he did in the video.
Does anyone have any other suggestions for an EDC?
They’ve been sending newer stronger recoil spring assembly and calling it good. I came to this conclusion when I took off the barrel and guide rod. Put the slide back in and you can feel/see the friction from the plastic. Combine that with an extractor spring that’s really tight and a guide rod that could use a little more umph… that’s probably why some have these issues. I’ve got 2000 rds thru mine now. No more issues.
@@tacticalbert would you still suggest it?
@@Pierre-117Cyes. I love it. Hitting tiny 3” plates at 25yards. It’s very accurate.
thanks for the info
It's the extractor keeping it from going into the battery. been there, trust me, this isn't the only model that has this problem
yeah... i wonder why canik thinks it's the guide rod spring. a stronger spring certainly helps but filing/polishing the extractor should solve it.
I think the extractor spring is also over-sprung. It’s too strong.
I think this is happening with my new Canik TP9SF after about 700 rounds. It seems like a light primer strike but it's no primer strike.
Great video. Mine started having the same issue at 500 rounds, along with failure to feed issues. I sent it back to Canik and all they did was replace the recoil spring. I got it back last week and I'm still having the same issues. I'm following the instructions in your video now. Just polished the feedramp. What file did you use for the extractor?
Just used a basic file to make sure it wasn’t too sharp. You’re not removing material. Just polish it smokth.
I am only experiencing light strikes, do you know what would be causing this and what I can do to fix this issue?
Try other ammo with federal or cci primers. Change striker spring to a stronger one.
@@tacticalbert update: last Wednesday I went to the range and shot 124g Blazer, and now I was having out of battery. I’ll look into a striker spring and do what you mentioned in the video
@@theflair3314ok yeah check for burrs. But also clean up the extractor and polish the feedramp
@@tacticalbert I may have sanded part of the metal when talking about the polymer spots on the frame. Should I go ahead and polish that metal? I am racking the slide just casually with no magazine and it like the slide gets a little caught anyway, such as if it wants to have an out of battery. Could it be that I need to polish that metal or do you think it could be something else?
@@theflair3314take out the firing pin also. Then rack and see where it’s coming from. You don’t have to polish the metal rail
Amazing. Thanks
Tried to do this and forgot to cover the pin and it shot out and hit me in the eye😂
Did you after polishing ramp clean and lube before using?Normally solves all issues.
Fantastic vid. Thanks.
A great and easy fix. 👍👍