Thanks man! My back rear brake started making a barely audible squeal like that of an electric fuel pump. I thought that was the indicator, because then while I was hundreds of miles from home it started making a horrific noise. I was for sure it was metal on metal. Turns out that it was just the indicator, but man what a racket! Didn't know what it was going to take to change them, but thanks to you and one other youtuber, I got it done in a couple hours. Turning that piston was a b**ch using needle nose pliers!
I have a 2018 and before I started I put my car into brake maintenance mode. To do this you get in the car while it’s off, press in the accelerator and the e-brake, hold these buttons while you press the start button 3 times. Keep holding them until the brake maintenance light appears on the dash- if you keep the door open you can hear the pistons retracting. I still had to compress but the pistons were retracted so no damage was done. Used a big screwdriver to make space for the new pads.
@@Dro-Ordanzo I'm 100% sure you just push it very slightly, not to the very end, so that the rubber boot doesn't stand out and then gets damged by the rotor. In fact, the piston is already partly pushed in after the service procedure that you need to do, which I showed in the video called: How to activate electric brake service mode | Mazda CX-3 You rotate the piston on Mazdas with a regular handbrake, not electric!
@@fixanddrive Alright well I appreciate the info 👌🏽 I’m planning on purchasing a 2019 Mazda 3 repair manual, I believe they go for like $30 and you get instructions to everything. Basically what mechanics have so they can know the torque on bolts etc.
No need to spin the piston inward. Simply compress by using a large C clamp. Before doing so, make sure the electronic brake is in service mode. What I found helpful before compressing the piston is to use channel locks and turn the piston left and right (make sure you dont tear the piston boot) to get it moving and then proceed with the large C clamp to compress the piston inward in order to give you room to slide the caliper onto the new brake pads.
That won't work on some models. It's impossible to use a c-clamp when you have the electronic brake motor behind the caliper as it's all plastic. I just spent hours doing this on them 2019 Mazda 3. I did not know that inside the caliper piston is a threaded push rod. Ultimately what happened to me because we weren't sure if his car was in brake maintenance mode, the pads were out and when he engaged the emergency brake, it pushed the Pistons all the way out. At this point I had no choice but to remove the calipers and put them on the workbench. With the piston and boot completely removed from the caliper, I hand screwed the bolt that presses against the piston all the way back down. Then had to reset and press the piston in. This did work, but did take several hours. Of course ended up having to bleed the brake line. I just hate when these car manufacturers decide to reinvent the wheel. I definitely learned a lot about the Mazda brake line system, and if I happen to have to help a friend out again I will surely be getting the proper tool for the job. Have a great day!
From personal experience. It's not that difficult. The problem is he didn't put the car in service mode to make it easier for the caliper to compress. Once you do that it's pretty straightforward. I had to find out the hard way. Nice reliable car but, parts aren't exactly the easiest thing to get.
How's she goin'? One of the main things that bothers me about doing home jobs like this, is the small differences in the parts. You get geared up to do a job and think you have all the right parts only to find out they are slightly different and then the whole job turns into a nightmare. You did good getting this straightened out. Having to do a road trip to get the right pads and then having the trouble compressing the cylinders. Good work buddy and congrats to you!! Take care!!!
Unless you had ceramic pads and that rotor is perfect, you are half assing putting pads on a seasoned rotor. It should have been turned or replaced. Also you didn't clean up and lightly lube the slots on the spring the pads sit in. If those pads don't move freely once in position, they will wear out quickly.
Thanks man! I I was wondering if anyone ran into their car not able to move while reversing or moving forward? This is basically what i did: 1. Turn on maintenance mode 2. Replaced rotors and brakepads (push the caliper pin back bc i couldn't put it on new pads). Grease the pads, pins. 3. put everything back on and then maintenance mode. I put my car in Reverse or drive and it wont drive?
So basically the rear pads for a Japan built Mazda 3 have the integrated springs built into the pad, but the Mexico version uses a pad without the springs (hardware pad springs are separate just like the front)?
@@ScooterResource333 Okay cool. I just did a preliminary check on my '17 (Mexico built with EPB) and without even taking the caliper off I can see that there are integrated springs on the pads. I am thinking (and you are correct) that both Mexico and Japan made '17 Mazda 3s have integrated springs on the pads. I think the big difference is whether or not the car has a EBP or not. Then again I think all '17 models have EBP standard so perhaps the slightly older '16 and down have different brakes/pads/rotors depending on whether are put together in Mexico or Japan and if they have the EPB. Perhaps Shane was given the wrong parts (i.e. for the older Mazda 3)? Did you do you front as well? I purchased both front and back and noticed that the front pads came with hardware clips..seems a clip for each side of each pad(pads don't have integrated springs on them).
The difference is whether the E-Brake is electric or manual. The pads in the video are for an electric E-Brake. All Grand Tourings are electric. Also as mentioned above be sure to put the car in service mode before retracting the caliper. Just need to compress it. Turning not required.
I had to turn the caliper and put pressure. But there may be a better way. I haven't tried this myself yet as the rear brake change went fine but plan on using this method the next time. mazdas247.com/forum/t/maintenance-mode-for-2016-2017-cx-5-electronic-brakes.123861563/
I had to modify it a bit to get it to work. Apparently there is a larger kit with a better turn thread ratio that works with the Mazda that wasn't in my particular tool set.
Did Shane put the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode? I was able to compress mine without turning the piston with a standard tool. Tried a C clamp but couldn't get it around the electronic brake module.
There is a procedure to release the caliper and engage the caliper from within the car. This will make the brake job a lot easier. th-cam.com/video/3IBXTh4ay2o/w-d-xo.html
Thanks man! My back rear brake started making a barely audible squeal like that of an electric fuel pump. I thought that was the indicator, because then while I was hundreds of miles from home it started making a horrific noise. I was for sure it was metal on metal. Turns out that it was just the indicator, but man what a racket! Didn't know what it was going to take to change them, but thanks to you and one other youtuber, I got it done in a couple hours. Turning that piston was a b**ch using needle nose pliers!
There is a park brake maintenance mode but I haven't tried it myself yet. Supposed to make it as easy as the front.
I have a 2018 and before I started I put my car into brake maintenance mode. To do this you get in the car while it’s off, press in the accelerator and the e-brake, hold these buttons while you press the start button 3 times. Keep holding them until the brake maintenance light appears on the dash- if you keep the door open you can hear the pistons retracting. I still had to compress but the pistons were retracted so no damage was done. Used a big screwdriver to make space for the new pads.
Those pistons should be pushed in, not rotated after the serice mode procedure. The elecric brake motor might get damaged doing it the way you did.
Hmm I’ve heard people say that they need to be rotated not pushed in so a bit confused rn….
@@Dro-Ordanzo I'm 100% sure you just push it very slightly, not to the very end, so that the rubber boot doesn't stand out and then gets damged by the rotor. In fact, the piston is already partly pushed in after the service procedure that you need to do, which I showed in the video called: How to activate electric brake service mode | Mazda CX-3
You rotate the piston on Mazdas with a regular handbrake, not electric!
@@fixanddrive Alright well I appreciate the info 👌🏽 I’m planning on purchasing a 2019 Mazda 3 repair manual, I believe they go for like $30 and you get instructions to everything. Basically what mechanics have so they can know the torque on bolts etc.
No need to spin the piston inward. Simply compress by using a large C clamp.
Before doing so, make sure the electronic brake is in service mode. What I found helpful before compressing the piston is to use channel locks and turn the piston left and right (make sure you dont tear the piston boot) to get it moving and then proceed with the large C clamp to compress the piston inward in order to give you room to slide the caliper onto the new brake pads.
Thanks for the tips!
That won't work on some models. It's impossible to use a c-clamp when you have the electronic brake motor behind the caliper as it's all plastic. I just spent hours doing this on them 2019 Mazda 3. I did not know that inside the caliper piston is a threaded push rod. Ultimately what happened to me because we weren't sure if his car was in brake maintenance mode, the pads were out and when he engaged the emergency brake, it pushed the Pistons all the way out. At this point I had no choice but to remove the calipers and put them on the workbench. With the piston and boot completely removed from the caliper, I hand screwed the bolt that presses against the piston all the way back down. Then had to reset and press the piston in. This did work, but did take several hours. Of course ended up having to bleed the brake line. I just hate when these car manufacturers decide to reinvent the wheel. I definitely learned a lot about the Mazda brake line system, and if I happen to have to help a friend out again I will surely be getting the proper tool for the job. Have a great day!
From personal experience. It's not that difficult. The problem is he didn't put the car in service mode to make it easier for the caliper to compress. Once you do that it's pretty straightforward. I had to find out the hard way. Nice reliable car but, parts aren't exactly the easiest thing to get.
Great cars, Mazdas are. We're on our our 3rd one, CX5 currently. Had the 3 and also Protege5.
We have a CX5 as well. Great cars. Replaced our trusty VW TDI's. Love those too but the VW buyback was too good to pass up.
How's she goin'? One of the main things that bothers me about doing home jobs like this, is the small differences in the parts. You get geared up to do a job and think you have all the right parts only to find out they are slightly different and then the whole job turns into a nightmare. You did good getting this straightened out. Having to do a road trip to get the right pads and then having the trouble compressing the cylinders. Good work buddy and congrats to you!! Take care!!!
It was a marathon running around to parts stores.
Unless you had ceramic pads and that rotor is perfect, you are half assing putting pads on a seasoned rotor. It should have been turned or replaced. Also you didn't clean up and lightly lube the slots on the spring the pads sit in. If those pads don't move freely once in position, they will wear out quickly.
Thanks man! I I was wondering if anyone ran into their car not able to move while reversing or moving forward?
This is basically what i did:
1. Turn on maintenance mode
2. Replaced rotors and brakepads (push the caliper pin back bc i couldn't put it on new pads). Grease the pads, pins.
3. put everything back on and then maintenance mode.
I put my car in Reverse or drive and it wont drive?
Nicely done Shane! And Boy! Just in time! lol Have a good week!
Thanks! You too!
You can look in the door jam and see if its made in Mexico or Japan
So basically the rear pads for a Japan built Mazda 3 have the integrated springs built into the pad, but the Mexico version uses a pad without the springs (hardware pad springs are separate just like the front)?
I think that is correct.
Mexico built pads also have the spring built in. Just did them yesterday
@@ScooterResource333 Okay cool. I just did a preliminary check on my '17 (Mexico built with EPB) and without even taking the caliper off I can see that there are integrated springs on the pads. I am thinking (and you are correct) that both Mexico and Japan made '17 Mazda 3s have integrated springs on the pads. I think the big difference is whether or not the car has a EBP or not. Then again I think all '17 models have EBP standard so perhaps the slightly older '16 and down have different brakes/pads/rotors depending on whether are put together in Mexico or Japan and if they have the EPB. Perhaps Shane was given the wrong parts (i.e. for the older Mazda 3)?
Did you do you front as well? I purchased both front and back and noticed that the front pads came with hardware clips..seems a clip for each side of each pad(pads don't have integrated springs on them).
The difference is whether the E-Brake is electric or manual. The pads in the video are for an electric E-Brake. All Grand Tourings are electric. Also as mentioned above be sure to put the car in service mode before retracting the caliper. Just need to compress it. Turning not required.
Do u need to apply pressure to get the caliper down and is righty tighty right
I had to turn the caliper and put pressure. But there may be a better way. I haven't tried this myself yet as the rear brake change went fine but plan on using this method the next time. mazdas247.com/forum/t/maintenance-mode-for-2016-2017-cx-5-electronic-brakes.123861563/
Why can't you grind the roters
I could have but didn't have tooling to do that at the time.
You can turn that piston back with the tool you have
I had to modify it a bit to get it to work. Apparently there is a larger kit with a better turn thread ratio that works with the Mazda that wasn't in my particular tool set.
@@ShaneBurrell1 I probably have it for next time you can borrow to save from buying one
@@rambo28779 Thanks! Hopefully those last another 50,000 miles.
Did Shane put the electronic parking brake in maintenance mode? I was able to compress mine without turning the piston with a standard tool. Tried a C clamp but couldn't get it around the electronic brake module.
@@ShaneBurrell1 Did you see comment below? 2017 has E Brake so you don’t turn the piston back in.
There is a procedure to release the caliper and engage the caliper from within the car. This will make the brake job a lot easier. th-cam.com/video/3IBXTh4ay2o/w-d-xo.html
I'll give that a try next brake pad change.
Is this a Mexico mazda or a Japan mazda?
Japan
@@ShaneBurrell1 my bad I made the comment early in the video before you got to that part and forgot to delete it.
on a Mazda the pads will wear as evenly as the car will rust!
No rust so far.