The stealership did me dirty. Save money by doing your own brakes with basic tools. I saved $430 doing the rear brakes myself. The breakdown is at the end of the video.
At 8:51 I turned the piston with a pair of needle nose pliers and spun it multiple rotations but it didn’t move 1 mm. Turning clockwise of course. I think caliper is bad
Your video is very helpful I love to learn with people like you. I have Mazda 3 2016 hatchback and I would like to change rear and front caliper Pads and rotor my self but I don’t have the $80 tool and you did not show the way to do it. Could you please do a video showing that. Also please help us to know how change the calipers. Pelease…..thanks a lot for your time . Su
Glad you found this helpful. At the 12 min 37 sec mark you can see one type of plyer that i used. To compress the caliper you just have to push the piston inward as you turn the piston inward and you will feel it loosen up as you are turning. Righty tighty should be the right way. You do have to use a pretty good amount of force while you're turning the piston. I will try to post a future video on how to change the caliper but not needed on my car yet. Hope you save alot of money doing it yourself. Good luck
Red is the strongest but a little over kill. Not impossible to remove. Blue should be good enough. I just went with the color the factory had on the bolt.
Did you use red thread locker? Would it make it impossible to remove? Maybe I should default to blue? Permatex sells an orange one which is high strength like red but removable. They also have red and blue. Just wanna make sure I use the right one but I thought I saw you used red so I wanna be sure
You can buy the cube. It has different sides with a few sizes for those pistons that have to rotate to return and autozone told me it would work for the Mazda 3 when I bought it last year but my mom was impatient so I didn’t get to do the job and only finished the fronts with a regular caliper reset tool. Really wish she let me do all four all at once.
@@jackofalltradesgarage better yet, I’d have just bought her a newly rebuilt one for less than they robbed her. Next time I have to yank her from there (and I hope there is no next time as we’ve had a heated talk over their highway robbery antics), I’m using your words and referring to them as a stealership😅
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 76 | คู่เอก "ผึ้งหลวง vs สมิงดำ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9SBshmGQOIM/mqdefault.jpg)
Everyone lives a Brake Job.❤😊
At 8:51 I turned the piston with a pair of needle nose pliers and spun it multiple rotations but it didn’t move 1 mm. Turning clockwise of course. I think caliper is bad
Your video is very helpful I love to learn with people like you. I have Mazda 3 2016 hatchback and I would like to change rear and front caliper Pads and rotor my self but I don’t have the $80 tool and you did not show the way to do it. Could you please do a video showing that. Also please help us to know how change the calipers. Pelease…..thanks a lot for your time . Su
Glad you found this helpful. At the 12 min 37 sec mark you can see one type of plyer that i used. To compress the caliper you just have to push the piston inward as you turn the piston inward and you will feel it loosen up as you are turning. Righty tighty should be the right way. You do have to use a pretty good amount of force while you're turning the piston. I will try to post a future video on how to change the caliper but not needed on my car yet. Hope you save alot of money doing it yourself. Good luck
Red is the strongest but a little over kill. Not impossible to remove. Blue should be good enough. I just went with the color the factory had on the bolt.
Did you use red thread locker? Would it make it impossible to remove? Maybe I should default to blue? Permatex sells an orange one which is high strength like red but removable. They also have red and blue. Just wanna make sure I use the right one but I thought I saw you used red so I wanna be sure
The wear indicator should have been installed on the bottom side.
Woops, I’m still going with no problems hopefully it won’t make a difference
Ahh interesting. A bit different to doing 2010 mazda 3. Can you just compress the piston or does it have to be turned back in. Thanks❤❤❤
you have to turn while compressing but there is specific tool to do it which makes it easier. I'm just a cheapskate.
You can buy the cube. It has different sides with a few sizes for those pistons that have to rotate to return and autozone told me it would work for the Mazda 3 when I bought it last year but my mom was impatient so I didn’t get to do the job and only finished the fronts with a regular caliper reset tool. Really wish she let me do all four all at once.
Thanks...I have the turn back tool.
Costs exactly the same DIY in Europe. I suspect mazda dealer would charge same here too.
Most dealers are the same that is why i refer to them as stealerships
@@jackofalltradesgarage damn stealership charged my mom over 500 to splice a wire on her starter. Could’ve done that myself for a couple bucks. 🤬
@@jackofalltradesgarage better yet, I’d have just bought her a newly rebuilt one for less than they robbed her. Next time I have to yank her from there (and I hope there is no next time as we’ve had a heated talk over their highway robbery antics), I’m using your words and referring to them as a stealership😅
TH-cam is a great resource to solve car problems. I usually check TH-cam before I take my car into the stealership.
@@jackofalltradesgaragesame. Mahalo braddah!
Adresse please
I wouldn’t ever use flat hats for brakes to save a few peenies. Stick to vented.
Thanks I will definitely consider it. So far no problem but I will keep it in mind.
Lol I only used brake cleaner on the front😂😂❤❤
its easy to forget. lol