I THINK WE ALL GO THROUGH THE SAME THING BUT I CHOPPED THEM UP AND PUT THEM TOGETHER BUT HOW DO YOU KNOW WHICH IS WHICH CABLE SINCE THEYRE ALL YELLOW? ANYBODY KNOWS?! AND PLEASE BE MORE EFFECTIVE WHEN DOING A VIDEO SO WE LEARN. WE’RE NOT HERE TO CHIT CHAT
My small shop is seeing a Honda spring. That was a 2000 750 (5400) original miles. A Honda 1100 beside the work bench and a 750 on deck to be repaired. So, the connector issue is very well appreciated. Thanks for the part number. And you missed the fun part. Test drives in the fine spring sunshine. M.
It seems that a lot of models have that issue with the stator plug melting from a poor connection. I had it on my 750 Shadow, my 1100 Shadow and so I decided to eliminate the plug onmy 1300VTX also. I just cut out the plug completely and soldered the wires together and used heat shrink on them. Now I don't have the problem. I also installed a volt meter to my bikes as well, so I can keep an eye on the battery to make sure it's always charging. I have heated grips, driving lights and a stereo on my bikes, so I like to be able to know how well my battery is doing while I ride. The reason your stators are going out is not only the plug making poor contact, it's also the fact that the Honda stock voltage regulators are also faulty. They are a poor design from the factory. I also switch mine our for a Mosfet style regulator, which runs cooler and sends more power to the battery, even at idle. If you change the stock regulator with a better (Mosfet) regulator, you won't be burning out your stator. Hondas are notorious for this and if it's not addressed when you get your bike, you will be replacing parts (regulator and/or stator) eventually.
Similar issue with Mercury outboards 40A stator with twin 20A charge coils and rect/regulators. Besides the wiring and bullet connectors burning up the regulators would actually catch on fire. The fix was. new bullet conns and dielectric grease. The nice thing about the twin reg's was, if one reg or wiring butnt and shorted, you had the second one that would still offer a suitable charge to the battery. Good post man, I'll be looking at my shadow's stator connector.
Nice work on the 400. Please keep us up to date with the stator issue. It's been sitting in the back of my mind bothering me since I watched that video. Good luck with it. Nasty plug developments on the VT. That could have been so much worse than it was.
Same problem on a 93 1100 shadow. The problem is the crimped connections in the connector, they become loose, and then they arc. There is a lot of power going through that connector, and a loose connection will cause a very hot arc that melts the entire connector. Either solder the wires inside the connector (instead of crimping them), or take the connector out of the equation, and just solder the three wires from the stator to the regulator/rectifier. Note: Any of the 3 wires coming from the stator can be soldered to any of the 3 wires going to the reg/rec, no need for any order. To save the reg/rec from damage from future failure a 30 amp DC breaker (or fuse) can be put inline. Instead of blowing a reg/rec costing big bucks, you only blow a cheap fuse, or have to flip a breaker.
I have owned 3 of these bikes and put over 100,000 miles on 2 of them. Third one is at 71k. common on all 3 bikes, stators quit at about 60k (all 3 bikes and i replace batteries every 2 years whether or not they test good ) I do not have any aftermarket electrical accessories on any of my bikes , coolant hose from the radiator to the overflow bottle dries out and cracks due to its close proximity to the rear cylinder exhaust outlet. if your engine runs hot and pushes coolant into the bottle it cannot pull the coolant back into the radiator because of the charred hose. all 3 bikes needed at least 2 radiator fan switches each. I do always carry an extra. turn signal relays also fail and are quite expensive at the dealership. have been lucky enough to find them on ebay. engines are bullet proof !!
Thank you for this video. I replaced the molex type with solder cup gold plated R/C LiPo connectors (what I had on hand). The bike has been running great ever since.
Before I finish this video, im about 4 minutes in and this might be my issue. My bike has been giving me an intermittent problem... last week it completely died on me at the light... tried to start it back up and NOTHING.... no lights, sounds nothing. I pull the side cover and once I put my fingers under the tool box and tugged up on it, all my lights came back on... i got a few days of work commute and about 2 to 3 hours of riding on wednesday... today I get to work with zero problems. When I got off and hit the road to get home, she started giving me problems.. im going about 70 when I the tach just shuts off and comes back on, on and off on and off... it was turning off and on over again so I pulled over... I take off normal again and keep it below 50, shes doing ok, good. Once she got me home she started hurting hard... temp light was coming on and off but Im assuming thats because it was trying to cut off I guess... Its late so I didnt get in there to see but this is the first thing Im going to check... I have a 2 year diehard gold agm battery in it so that might be causing the issue
First and foremost, like to thank you, Cody, for the many Shadow vt1100 videos that you've done. Those videos have helped me a lot on my sons and my 98 Spirit. You always point out things that others, including the manuals, seem to leave out. Sooooo helpful! Thank you! I am assuming, without knowing, that the repair kit you reference in this video is just a way to replace both the male and female 3-wire connectors with, what appear to be, identical to the ones that melted. You say you never had a comeback and I certainly believe you but I'm wondering if you have any thoughts as to why the replacement three-way connector didn't also melt. And yes I did have the melting connector issue. When that happened, it zapped the regulator/rectifier, which I replaced with China's best LOL. I believe it's male connector because it has the male spades.... At any rate the connector that is part of the regulator/rectifier.... And then used three insulated female crimp Spade connectors (blue, FYI)... And positioned the connector assembly over the air filter so hopefully it gets air constantly moving over it and should not overheat. The other thing I wanted to mention is that I have recently purchased from Amazon two different smart chargers for about $30 each, which have multiple modes, including a repair mode which pulses current. I have found this works quite well to rejuvenate batteries that have sat in a state of discharge for many months. No guarantees, but so far so good! Thought you might like to try one of those if you haven't yet had the opportunity. Much better than putting it on 800 milliamp battery maintainer or a higher amperage charger. Again, thank you for all your great videos and sharing your vast knowledge and expertise, with those of us who don't have it. Even though I've been wrenching for 60 years! Please keep up the Great work, and I wish you all the best. David
The reason the original melted and the replacement ones didn't is because the original wiring was not done correctly and eventually the poor connections caused enough heat that it melted the plastic connector. When Cody replaces them, he makes sure the connections are done properly. Rick Nelson who used the bullet connectors did the same thing and thus, he had no problems. Basically, the problem is poor workmanship.
Same exact thing happened to mine! Died going 70 after that. Afterwards I could jump it and drive it in first gear but as soon as I would try shift to 2nd it would die? I just spliced the wires together and haven’t had any issues since! I saw another video that said water gets under the seat there and causes that…
Same connector problem on my 600VLX, either a manufacturing defect in the original parts Honda used or an improper application of the connector. If it is the latter then replacing the connector with the same type is 'insane', if the former then it should have been a 'Recall'.
Thank's Again Cody 😎👍👍 I watched your Troubleshooting OHM test video and found this exact same thing on my C3, Thinking the Stator burnt also but knowing this help's I'll be Cutting and soldering in some bullet style connector's after retrying the stator test with clean wire's LOL ✌😎👍 Rubberside Down Brother
I also own a 86 vt1100c. I bought mine off of a guy who had just had the motor redone by a Honda motorcycle tech , and Man does that thing run GREAT ! I took out the baffles in the exhaust , and took out the Welsh plugs in the carburetor and adjusted because it was running lean , and my friends cannot believe how good that thing sounds... They say they cannot tell the difference from it or a Harley-Davidson coming down the road ! I also have a 86 vt700c, it's all apart right now, but it was too small for me anyways , but it ran real smooth ! I never got to ask the guy what that honda-tech did to that motor , but by the way this thing runs he was an experienced veteran of many years I can assure you of that !
I had the same problem with mine. I ordered a connector from an aftermarket place. I put dielectric grease in the inside of the terminals. The dielectric grease helps or may prevent the arching spark inside the terminal. It has been several years since I don't have thus problem.
Opinion needed I bought a 02 Honda shadow Sabre 1100 the guy I got it from he said he noticed after he parked it for winter which wasn't long it bogs when you accelerate kinda hard I have put two cans twice in fuel fill up still does it is there a easy fix without taking carbs out
Hi Cody, again an excellent video - thank you for sharing. I met this problem on my vt 1100c shadow of 1994. Not knowing the kit I performed a traditional repair. Does the kit work on my model? Thank you again a future subscriber. Ride SAFE !!!
since the charging system is 3 phase. does it matter when cutting off the connectors, the wires don't have to be matched to each other when soldering them together.
But doesn't the connection heat up because of bad stator or regulater? I'm pretty sure a harness with proper connection won't just fry itself. Just askin.
Don't cut it back too far ! if it happens again once or twice you won't have no wires left to hookup to! and you'll be digging into the bike to find extra wire..... is really nice to have extra length wyer.
I really dislike those connectors that are designed to reduce (un)plug effort. They failed/melted on my chevy impala, dodge durango and now I can expect it to happen on my honda shadow sabre. Thanks. Really, thank you for the heads up.
Afternoon all , Have a question.Want to install a momentary starter button on my 86 Honda cmx 450 I don't know what wires or color to look for,Just the wires to start the bike I will connect it on the handle bars.
Any video for 04 Sabre VT1100 headlight hi/lo beam switch cleaning or replacement? High beam intermittent/not working, low OK, bulb bench hi//lo test ok. Thanks from Portsmouth.
After I found mine burned up and made the repairs I had my tail light go nuts. In the beginning both tail lights were in the brakes are being applied mode. This got me looking and that's when I found the connector burned up. Repaired it then one tail was out and the other one still bright. Continued tracking the wire out to find the front brake light switch burned up. Replaced with a new one and no change in the tail lights. Continued tracking to find my horn connection melted at the horn. I'm like WHAT THE HELL is going on. All of these items were fine before the original tail light fiasco. Everything changed again after I fixed the burned up connector. It starts fine and battery now holds a charge. I was a master electrician for 42 years so no I didn't wire it wrong. I guess my question is, would one of these 3 yellow wires allow a power surge to go through this closed loop system and fry everything when in that loop ? I've looked at the wiring diagram and found all of these are tied into the same loop including the tail light.Why would these items not have been protected via fuse ? I have a 2003 Shadow Spirit VT 1100c
Hey man great video once again! A question: I have a VT1100 c2 with the same issue, wires are very hard around the connector. When I measure resistance in the stator plug it's 0.8 on all combinations... could it still be a connector issue?
Honest question; when I ride my shadow VT 1100 tourer, it sounds like the front piston is knocking a bit... I've checked oil... Radiator fluid.. etc... All seems fine.. How can you tell if the oil pump is bad?? Or is this something worse..? Please advise...!!!!
Great video!! Your videos are so helpful! I do have a question though. Would a low/bad battery or charging system component cause the motorcycle to not perfrom, like loss of engine power? I know you said the owner pulled off the road, but was that because the bike died or the engine couldnt keep running once it was started? Thanks!!
I did heat shrink bullet connectors to replace my fried plug. Seems to be working fine now. Do you answer any questions cuz I just bought a 94 shadow vt1100c and I have a few questions
Okay, so is this a problem with the design of this connector, or a problem caused by corrosion, or what? Can it be preempted with some electronic grease? Or is it better to just go ahead and install the GL1200 connector and get it over with? When you say "newer" VT1100's, are there a certain years that experienced this issue? Thanks for the video.
Hey if all 3 colors are yellow on both plugs, is it ok the put the bullet connectors in any way ?? any yellow with nay yellow? thankx not good at all on electrical issues.
It's so funny I stumbled across this video, 2 days ago I was changing my air filter and that particular plug was visible and mine was melted. I had not lost any power and had no issues just noticed it because it wasn't covered with one of the sleeves I just hard-wired it. If I ever have to replace the regulator I'll deal with buying a new clip then
@Bryan Miller no that's what fuses are for. It's probably faulty or the wrong kind of plastic. Figuring it's a common thing it's most likely a design flaw or cost cut from honda. I am an electrician with 25 years experience so I kinda know about these things
This same thing happened on my 2001 Honda vlx 600, luckily I was near a Drug store and pushed it into the parking lot and came back with my truck to pick it up.
I think i have a ground issues on my 1999 Honda VT1100. I am having turning light issues (new to me project bike), i will also now check the connector as you suggest in this video. Where is the ground on the VT1100, are there multiple ground places to the frame?
So would this be something that would cause what appears to be misfires? Massive loss of power followed by increases. The smoke issue is what I had and I will be checking that connection soon. But, I did get 100+ miles in on new years day.
I have a 95 vt1100 and had a problem like this recently, just bought it and took home and was flawlessfor a week.. the next week I took it for a drive and on a back road turn and it died on me never to start again without charging assistance...saw the connection was fried and changed the stator and connection but not yet the rectifier, bike wont start on it's own still
I’ve burned up two of these plugs this season. I was thinking there is an issue with my stator or rectifier but is it safe to eliminate the connector altogether and throw in bullet connectors?
Corroded ground cable cost me two stators two r/r went to Walmart picked up a ground cable at the battery section for $6 replace the ground and now everything is just fine
First thing to do is cut the three prong plug out between the stator and the voltage regulator. Then take out the stock voltage regulator and throw it as far away as humanly possible. Then get a Mosfet regulator ( google it) I got a used one off of an R1 Yamaha. It runs cooler and sends alot more power to your battery, evan at idle. Your bike will run better and start so much easier.
Wish I could figure out why my wiring harness melted on my 2000 Shadow Ace Deluxe 750. I ordered a new harness with start button and on/off switch but it keeps popping the ignition fuse. At least it hasn’t melted my new harness yet.
My 1999 Honda shadow 600vlx had the same issue the bike shop told me they had to saunter the wires and heat shrink it because it would possibly corrode and melt again so they used heat shrinking 3 times after they sauntered it now it runs much better it don’t get hot anymore my bike would kill The battery and just die on me twice a month after getting a new battery
Sounds exactly what happened to my shadow 600. just found that plug melted and I wired it straight just to hear the engine before buyin the part, but I had no luck keeps blowing the ignition fuse and wont even make a sound to start. The high beams light shows all the time without using them. Is it a bas stator?? Or the regulator how can I know??
I have a 94 honda vt1100c rode it home got home wired in some load resistors for my led turn signals went to start it and it started to turn over then it stopped and now it won't do anything at all all the lights come on but it won't try to turn over
I can race my bike up and sounds fine but going thru the gears at about half throttle it cuts out bad input new carbs had them jetted for my Vance n Hines slingshot pipes what would u recomend
I have a problem with my VT 1100 C from 93 I did all the static checking‘s on the stator and regulator rectifier(they were fine). All the connections were great. When I did The dynamic check on the stator, all three yellow wires give more volts on idle, But all three wires drop the volts when I rev the bike up. Not very common?!
this sounds exactly like what my 2002 vt750 ACE is doing. would this be the same fix? just replaced the battery too and now its doing the same thing. just dying...
I have a honda vt 1100 shadow just got the other day and wanted to pretty much trun it into a bobber/chopper style is there a kit that will convert the shaft to chain or belt I have to replace the transmission as it is
I have a 92 Honda Shadow and I replaced the clutch and it's still you drop it and gearing is still don't move can anybody give me an idea what is going on I would appreciate it
So one of those three stator wires burned up on my 88 but about 2-3 inches out of the case Do you know what would be the cause of that? I’m just curious bc where it happened was nowhere really near a connector
You have great content Cody!- I love my 98 Aero 1100, 27K miles - it's been great but 2 weeks ago it started studdering/missing or skipping at both high and low speeds and then dies...very similar to the problem you describe here...this has happened sometimes going down my driveway and sometimes after putting on 20 good miles??? Once I pull of the road and give it a minute or two it starts right back up. The rectifier/stator connector doesn't look that bad, one of the connecters is darker than the other. Would the bike still start up and run if this was my problem?
I have a 1999 1100 ct3 aero it starts fine with the choke on but after the choke is off it back fires like crazy for about 15 to 30 minutes ... Never did that before...any ideas ?. Ty
hello sir. what is the common cause of a bike that would not perform well in rainy days, like the engine starts to loose its power even if the throttle going. I've already change my sparkplug cap. is there something wrong with the carb or the engine?? thanks
If tests for the stator and r/r check out and I replace this connector but it melts again, where should I go from there? Having this issue with my Suzuki and thinking I might replace the r/r with a mosfet one but that is a pile of cash!
If's don't prove anything until its done! I would start easy. Replace the connector with a good quality connection. The connection fails because of a bad connection in this case. Not because of a bad charging system part. On the flip side, I have heard good things about the mosfet! Never done one but the company seems to be worth the money.
I had this same issue a few years ago, I put in my own bullet connectors and completely fine! Great video thanks for sharing!
I THINK WE ALL GO THROUGH THE SAME THING BUT I CHOPPED THEM UP AND PUT THEM TOGETHER BUT HOW DO YOU KNOW WHICH IS WHICH CABLE SINCE THEYRE ALL YELLOW?
ANYBODY KNOWS?!
AND PLEASE BE MORE EFFECTIVE WHEN DOING A VIDEO SO WE LEARN.
WE’RE NOT HERE TO CHIT CHAT
My small shop is seeing a Honda spring. That was a 2000 750 (5400) original miles. A Honda 1100 beside the work bench and a 750 on deck to be repaired. So, the connector issue is very well appreciated. Thanks for the part number. And you missed the fun part. Test drives in the fine spring sunshine. M.
It seems that a lot of models have that issue with the stator plug melting from a poor connection. I had it on my 750 Shadow, my 1100 Shadow and so I decided to eliminate the plug onmy 1300VTX also. I just cut out the plug completely and soldered the wires together and used heat shrink on them. Now I don't have the problem. I also installed a volt meter to my bikes as well, so I can keep an eye on the battery to make sure it's always charging. I have heated grips, driving lights and a stereo on my bikes, so I like to be able to know how well my battery is doing while I ride. The reason your stators are going out is not only the plug making poor contact, it's also the fact that the Honda stock voltage regulators are also faulty. They are a poor design from the factory. I also switch mine our for a Mosfet style regulator, which runs cooler and sends more power to the battery, even at idle. If you change the stock regulator with a better (Mosfet) regulator, you won't be burning out your stator. Hondas are notorious for this and if it's not addressed when you get your bike, you will be replacing parts (regulator and/or stator) eventually.
Thanks brother. I was asking the question about my 83 model Shadow 500; haveing the same problem. thanks again
Similar issue with Mercury outboards 40A stator with twin 20A charge coils and rect/regulators. Besides the wiring and bullet connectors burning up the regulators would actually catch on fire. The fix was. new bullet conns and dielectric grease. The nice thing about the twin reg's was, if one reg or wiring butnt and shorted, you had the second one that would still offer a suitable charge to the battery. Good post man, I'll be looking at my shadow's stator connector.
Nice work on the 400. Please keep us up to date with the stator issue. It's been sitting in the back of my mind bothering me since I watched that video. Good luck with it.
Nasty plug developments on the VT. That could have been so much worse than it was.
Same problem on a 93 1100 shadow.
The problem is the crimped connections in the connector, they become loose, and then they arc. There is a lot of power going through that connector, and a loose connection will cause a very hot arc that melts the entire connector.
Either solder the wires inside the connector (instead of crimping them), or take the connector out of the equation, and just solder the three wires from the stator to the regulator/rectifier. Note: Any of the 3 wires coming from the stator can be soldered to any of the 3 wires going to the reg/rec, no need for any order.
To save the reg/rec from damage from future failure a 30 amp DC breaker (or fuse) can be put inline. Instead of blowing a reg/rec costing big bucks, you only blow a cheap fuse, or have to flip a breaker.
My Honda shadow 700 had this and I had to have it all redone. Thank God I have a great mechanic
I have owned 3 of these bikes and put over 100,000 miles on 2 of them. Third one is at 71k. common on all 3 bikes, stators quit at about 60k (all 3 bikes and i replace batteries every 2 years whether or not they test good ) I do not have any aftermarket electrical accessories on any of my bikes , coolant hose from the radiator to the overflow bottle dries out and cracks due to its close proximity to the rear cylinder exhaust outlet. if your engine runs hot and pushes coolant into the bottle it cannot pull the coolant back into the radiator because of the charred hose. all 3 bikes needed at least 2 radiator fan switches each. I do always carry an extra. turn signal relays also fail and are quite expensive at the dealership. have been lucky enough to find them on ebay. engines are bullet proof !!
Thank you for this video. I replaced the molex type with solder cup gold plated R/C LiPo connectors (what I had on hand). The bike has been running great ever since.
I just got the bike how it running Good
Looks exactly like our old VT1100R. Same color and everything. Keep up the great work!!!
Before I finish this video, im about 4 minutes in and this might be my issue. My bike has been giving me an intermittent problem... last week it completely died on me at the light... tried to start it back up and NOTHING.... no lights, sounds nothing. I pull the side cover and once I put my fingers under the tool box and tugged up on it, all my lights came back on... i got a few days of work commute and about 2 to 3 hours of riding on wednesday... today I get to work with zero problems. When I got off and hit the road to get home, she started giving me problems.. im going about 70 when I the tach just shuts off and comes back on, on and off on and off... it was turning off and on over again so I pulled over... I take off normal again and keep it below 50, shes doing ok, good. Once she got me home she started hurting hard... temp light was coming on and off but Im assuming thats because it was trying to cut off I guess... Its late so I didnt get in there to see but this is the first thing Im going to check... I have a 2 year diehard gold agm battery in it so that might be causing the issue
First and foremost, like to thank you, Cody, for the many Shadow vt1100 videos that you've done. Those videos have helped me a lot on my sons and my 98 Spirit. You always point out things that others, including the manuals, seem to leave out. Sooooo helpful! Thank you!
I am assuming, without knowing, that the repair kit you reference in this video is just a way to replace both the male and female 3-wire connectors with, what appear to be, identical to the ones that melted. You say you never had a comeback and I certainly believe you but I'm wondering if you have any thoughts as to why the replacement three-way connector didn't also melt. And yes I did have the melting connector issue. When that happened, it zapped the regulator/rectifier, which I replaced with China's best LOL. I believe it's male connector because it has the male spades.... At any rate the connector that is part of the regulator/rectifier.... And then used three insulated female crimp Spade connectors (blue, FYI)... And positioned the connector assembly over the air filter so hopefully it gets air constantly moving over it and should not overheat.
The other thing I wanted to mention is that I have recently purchased from Amazon two different smart chargers for about $30 each, which have multiple modes, including a repair mode which pulses current. I have found this works quite well to rejuvenate batteries that have sat in a state of discharge for many months. No guarantees, but so far so good! Thought you might like to try one of those if you haven't yet had the opportunity. Much better than putting it on 800 milliamp battery maintainer or a higher amperage charger.
Again, thank you for all your great videos and sharing your vast knowledge and expertise, with those of us who don't have it. Even though I've been wrenching for 60 years! Please keep up the Great work, and I wish you all the best. David
The reason the original melted and the replacement ones didn't is because the original wiring was not done correctly and eventually the poor connections caused enough heat that it melted the plastic connector. When Cody replaces them, he makes sure the connections are done properly. Rick Nelson who used the bullet connectors did the same thing and thus, he had no problems. Basically, the problem is poor workmanship.
Same exact thing happened to mine! Died going 70 after that. Afterwards I could jump it and drive it in first gear but as soon as I would try shift to 2nd it would die? I just spliced the wires together and haven’t had any issues since! I saw another video that said water gets under the seat there and causes that…
Thank you for this video. I have the start of this on my 02 vt1100 and I have a charging issue because of it. keep up the great how to videos!!
Same connector problem on my 600VLX, either a manufacturing defect in the original parts Honda used or an improper application of the connector. If it is the latter then replacing the connector with the same type is 'insane', if the former then it should have been a 'Recall'.
I really like the cover on the tank of the C3 and I can't find it anywhere.
Nice video. Is that wiring standard Honda quality?
Thank's Again Cody 😎👍👍 I watched your Troubleshooting OHM test video and found this exact same thing on my C3, Thinking the Stator burnt also but knowing this help's I'll be Cutting and soldering in some bullet style connector's after retrying the stator test with clean wire's LOL ✌😎👍 Rubberside Down Brother
Good to know! I have a 1 owner 86 vt1100c with only 24,000 on it and 0 problems in 34 years.
I also own a 86 vt1100c. I bought mine off of a guy who had just had the motor redone by a Honda motorcycle tech , and Man does that thing run GREAT ! I took out the baffles in the exhaust , and took out the Welsh plugs in the carburetor and adjusted because it was running lean , and my friends cannot believe how good that thing sounds... They say they cannot tell the difference from it or a Harley-Davidson coming down the road ! I also have a 86 vt700c, it's all apart right now, but it was too small for me anyways , but it ran real smooth ! I never got to ask the guy what that honda-tech did to that motor , but by the way this thing runs he was an experienced veteran of many years I can assure you of that !
Ive seen them melt and all weld together and still work
I had the same problem with mine. I ordered a connector from an aftermarket place. I put dielectric grease in the inside of the terminals. The dielectric grease helps or may prevent the arching spark inside the terminal. It has been several years since I don't have thus problem.
Same issue I've had with the Yamaha xvs1100, I cut out the bit entirely seven years ago and have had no issue since.
Thankyou for the heads up.I am looking at purchasing a 1998 vt1100.
Opinion needed I bought a 02 Honda shadow Sabre 1100 the guy I got it from he said he noticed after he parked it for winter which wasn't long it bogs when you accelerate kinda hard I have put two cans twice in fuel fill up still does it is there a easy fix without taking carbs out
Doesn’t sound like it man!
I am going out to check my GoldWing right now
Hi Cody, again an excellent video - thank you for sharing.
I met this problem on my vt 1100c shadow of 1994. Not knowing the kit I performed a traditional repair. Does the kit work on my model?
Thank you again a future subscriber. Ride SAFE !!!
since the charging system is 3 phase. does it matter when cutting off the connectors, the wires don't have to be matched to each other when soldering them together.
But doesn't the connection heat up because of bad stator or regulater? I'm pretty sure a harness with proper connection won't just fry itself. Just askin.
Don't cut it back too far ! if it happens again once or twice you won't have no wires left to hookup to! and you'll be digging into the bike to find extra wire..... is really nice to have extra length wyer.
I have an 06 Sabre 1100, guess I better check that
Ghost in the machine same problem with a 1984 honda 650 nighthawk but bad red wire connectors in front fuse box- poor design by Honda
Late comment, but can you link us to that wiring kit from Honda?
I cant seem to find it and don't want to hard wire either
“The AC voltage goes to the battery…” makes sense. And how did you determine that rectifier wasn’t fried sir?
I really dislike those connectors that are designed to reduce (un)plug effort. They failed/melted on my chevy impala, dodge durango and now I can expect it to happen on my honda shadow sabre. Thanks. Really, thank you for the heads up.
Afternoon all , Have a question.Want to install a momentary starter button on my 86 Honda cmx 450 I don't know what wires or color to look for,Just the wires to start the bike I will connect it on the handle bars.
Any video for 04 Sabre VT1100 headlight hi/lo beam switch cleaning or replacement? High beam intermittent/not working, low OK, bulb bench hi//lo test ok. Thanks from Portsmouth.
After I found mine burned up and made the repairs I had my tail light go nuts. In the beginning both tail lights were in the brakes are being applied mode. This got me looking and that's when I found the connector burned up. Repaired it then one tail was out and the other one still bright. Continued tracking the wire out to find the front brake light switch burned up. Replaced with a new one and no change in the tail lights. Continued tracking to find my horn connection melted at the horn. I'm like WHAT THE HELL is going on. All of these items were fine before the original tail light fiasco. Everything changed again after I fixed the burned up connector. It starts fine and battery now holds a charge. I was a master electrician for 42 years so no I didn't wire it wrong. I guess my question is, would one of these 3 yellow wires allow a power surge to go through this closed loop system and fry everything when in that loop ? I've looked at the wiring diagram and found all of these are tied into the same loop including the tail light.Why would these items not have been protected via fuse ? I have a 2003 Shadow Spirit VT 1100c
Yes plug in
Hey man great video once again! A question: I have a VT1100 c2 with the same issue, wires are very hard around the connector. When I measure resistance in the stator plug it's 0.8 on all combinations... could it still be a connector issue?
Honest question;
when I ride my shadow VT 1100 tourer, it sounds like the front piston is knocking a bit...
I've checked oil...
Radiator fluid.. etc...
All seems fine..
How can you tell if the oil pump is bad?? Or is this something worse..?
Please advise...!!!!
Excellent and understandable and in layman’s terms. Instead of on and on and on. Good basic troubleshooting steps I apply towards my atv.
Also. The connector ends up burning out when the stator ends up shortening out. So stator and rectifier still need to be tested.
Great video!! Your videos are so helpful! I do have a question though. Would a low/bad battery or charging system component cause the motorcycle to not perfrom, like loss of engine power? I know you said the owner pulled off the road, but was that because the bike died or the engine couldnt keep running once it was started? Thanks!!
I did heat shrink bullet connectors to replace my fried plug. Seems to be working fine now. Do you answer any questions cuz I just bought a 94 shadow vt1100c and I have a few questions
Love your vids. Very helpful. What would be the equivalent part for a 2007 Honda VT750 Aero? Or would this part work on my 750 too? Thanks
Should work replacing connector on my 750 with wagons same issue on most Honda shadows
Hey man how do i connect the fuel pump relay to an after market pump on my 1987 VT700C i am using a Mr. Gasket pump lol
I have a 2005 vt1100 shadow sabre will this issue cause my rear cylinder not to fire
I believe some Honda Goldwings also have the same problem, I know my 1200 has toasted the alternator plug
Correct! The repair kit is actually an updated part for the GL1200
Okay, so is this a problem with the design of this connector, or a problem caused by corrosion, or what? Can it be preempted with some electronic grease? Or is it better to just go ahead and install the GL1200 connector and get it over with? When you say "newer" VT1100's, are there a certain years that experienced this issue? Thanks for the video.
Hey if all 3 colors are yellow on both plugs, is it ok the put the bullet connectors in any way ?? any yellow with nay yellow? thankx not good at all on electrical issues.
It's so funny I stumbled across this video, 2 days ago I was changing my air filter and that particular plug was visible and mine was melted. I had not lost any power and had no issues just noticed it because it wasn't covered with one of the sleeves I just hard-wired it. If I ever have to replace the regulator I'll deal with buying a new clip then
How many miles was on Your bike when You noticed the plug was melted?Noticed this on my '86 honda shadow vt1100.My bike has just over 61000km's.
@@derrickhillier1173 20k
Mine is a 2001 1100 sabre
@Bryan Miller no that's what fuses are for. It's probably faulty or the wrong kind of plastic. Figuring it's a common thing it's most likely a design flaw or cost cut from honda. I am an electrician with 25 years experience so I kinda know about these things
This same thing happened on my 2001 Honda vlx 600, luckily I was near a Drug store and pushed it into the parking lot and came back with my truck to pick it up.
So where’s the results video?🤦🏻♂️
Do you know where I can get a fuel tank for the VT1100 Honda shadow preferably for 1994 and 4 gallon
I think i have a ground issues on my 1999 Honda VT1100. I am having turning light issues (new to me project bike), i will also now check the connector as you suggest in this video. Where is the ground on the VT1100, are there multiple ground places to the frame?
Wonder what it charged at voltage wise after?
Great content mate... exactly what I needed to know to sort my Sabre.
Thanks for posting up these videos dude! You're like Motorcycle Gandalf! XD
Glad you enjoy man!
My Honda 1100 1999 I pull in the clutch and try and put it in gear and it shuts off can you help me
That looks like a 99. I know cause I have that exact bike. And some carb issues. Getting ready to dig into. Thanks for the help.
Good info...VT1100C quick throttle roll on stall?
So would this be something that would cause what appears to be misfires? Massive loss of power followed by increases.
The smoke issue is what I had and I will be checking that connection soon.
But, I did get 100+ miles in on new years day.
I have a 95 vt1100 and had a problem like this recently, just bought it and took home and was flawlessfor a week.. the next week I took it for a drive and on a back road turn and it died on me never to start again without charging assistance...saw the connection was fried and changed the stator and connection but not yet the rectifier, bike wont start on it's own still
What is the part number for that kit?
Thank u brother. Peace
I’ve burned up two of these plugs this season. I was thinking there is an issue with my stator or rectifier but is it safe to eliminate the connector altogether and throw in bullet connectors?
Corroded ground cable cost me two stators two r/r went to Walmart picked up a ground cable at the battery section for $6 replace the ground and now everything is just fine
Thanks for sharing
Please consider a video on repairing the pain in the ass “guide plug” oil leak design flaw on earlier Honda Shadow VT1100’s.
What’s this? You’re scaring me Jeffery
First thing to do is cut the three prong plug out between the stator and the voltage regulator. Then take out the stock voltage regulator and throw it as far away as humanly possible. Then get a Mosfet regulator ( google it) I got a used one off of an R1 Yamaha. It runs cooler and sends alot more power to your battery, evan at idle. Your bike will run better and start so much easier.
Wish I could figure out why my wiring harness melted on my 2000 Shadow Ace Deluxe 750. I ordered a new harness with start button and on/off switch but it keeps popping the ignition fuse. At least it hasn’t melted my new harness yet.
Now I'm dizzy
I bypassed my plug on my vt700c hardwired it. Unfortunately I think my stator is probably bad.
my VT600 also melt that wire so i reapir each three of yellow cables
i dont know why its melt and some greese on them
My 1999 Honda shadow 600vlx had the same issue the bike shop told me they had to saunter the wires and heat shrink it because it would possibly corrode and melt again so they used heat shrinking 3 times after they sauntered it now it runs much better it don’t get hot anymore my bike would kill
The battery and just die on me twice a month after getting a new battery
Sounds exactly what happened to my shadow 600. just found that plug melted and I wired it straight just to hear the engine before buyin the part, but I had no luck keeps blowing the ignition fuse and wont even make a sound to start. The high beams light shows all the time without using them. Is it a bas stator?? Or the regulator how can I know??
I have a 94 honda vt1100c rode it home got home wired in some load resistors for my led turn signals went to start it and it started to turn over then it stopped and now it won't do anything at all all the lights come on but it won't try to turn over
Would I have to worry about this problem for a 96 VT1100C or would this have been replaced already?
Thanks Doc another happy patient.
1970's CB750 had the same problem
I can race my bike up and sounds fine but going thru the gears at about half throttle it cuts out bad input new carbs had them jetted for my Vance n Hines slingshot pipes what would u recomend
I have a problem with my VT 1100 C from 93 I did all the static checking‘s on the stator and regulator rectifier(they were fine). All the connections were great. When I did The dynamic check on the stator, all three yellow wires give more volts on idle, But all three wires drop the volts when I rev the bike up.
Not very common?!
this sounds exactly like what my 2002 vt750 ACE is doing. would this be the same fix? just replaced the battery too and now its doing the same thing. just dying...
The regulator/rectifier for the '86 vt1100 is now obsolete at Honda.FYI.
Grow lights?? Lol. think you may have helped me with my issue. Ty
I have a honda vt 1100 shadow just got the other day and wanted to pretty much trun it into a bobber/chopper style is there a kit that will convert the shaft to chain or belt I have to replace the transmission as it is
I have a 92 Honda Shadow and I replaced the clutch and it's still you drop it and gearing is still don't move can anybody give me an idea what is going on I would appreciate it
are those stock Honda shadow pipes hanging in the background ill trade for my aftermarket ones lol
So one of those three stator wires burned up on my 88 but about 2-3 inches out of the case Do you know what would be the cause of that? I’m just curious bc where it happened was nowhere really near a connector
You have great content Cody!- I love my 98 Aero 1100, 27K miles - it's been great but 2 weeks ago it started studdering/missing or skipping at both high and low speeds and then dies...very similar to the problem you describe here...this has happened sometimes going down my driveway and sometimes after putting on 20 good miles??? Once I pull of the road and give it a minute or two it starts right back up. The rectifier/stator connector doesn't look that bad, one of the connecters is darker than the other. Would the bike still start up and run if this was my problem?
Did you figure out this issue? I have the same thing on my 2000.
🙂 thanks for the tip broh, i will bookmark the video
Hey so my 96 vt1100 shadow, the temp light is flashing. Coolant is full. Any ideas
I have a 1999 1100 ct3 aero it starts fine with the choke on but after the choke is off it back fires like crazy for about 15 to 30 minutes ... Never did that before...any ideas ?. Ty
I have a 2007 Shadow 1100. Wires are melting and mechanic thinks I need a new stator & rectifier $500. Is this connector all I need?
Cut the wires use the twist on connectors your electrician uses to hook wires together in your walls
DUDE!!!!!!!! I have been suffering with that problem !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On my 1100...
Same issue with my 05 1100vt but if I rev it the lights will get brighter
hello sir. what is the common cause of a bike that would not perform well in rainy days, like the engine starts to loose its power even if the throttle going. I've already change my sparkplug cap. is there something wrong with the carb or the engine?? thanks
Hi my VT600 also have that problem
im change the re assembled the cables
If tests for the stator and r/r check out and I replace this connector but it melts again, where should I go from there? Having this issue with my Suzuki and thinking I might replace the r/r with a mosfet one but that is a pile of cash!
If's don't prove anything until its done! I would start easy. Replace the connector with a good quality connection. The connection fails because of a bad connection in this case. Not because of a bad charging system part. On the flip side, I have heard good things about the mosfet! Never done one but the company seems to be worth the money.
@@TheMotorcycleMD thanks man!