After 4 years of troubleshooting my idle, finally i watched your videos regarding idle and i managed to fix it! God bless you and thank you for posting such an important videos for us! ❤
Very good well illustrated video! I have an 85 380SL and am having problem with intermit issue with high idle and wondering if you can assist me. After a good cleaning I bench test the ICV and seems to be working normal with the open and close when I applied 4 volts on my power supply unit. But it only shows .49 amps. After install it back on the engine and it started fine with idle normal around 750 rpm. When engine start getting hot, the rpm starts climbing to about 1400 rpm and few minutes later it went back down to normal. A few minutes later the rpm start climbing again. I tested the voltage on each cycle by disconnected the two prongs female connector when it idles at normal and it read about 4 volts. The rpm climbed when I disconnected and went back down to normal when plugged it back in. I did the same testing when it idles at 1400 rpm for few minutes. At high idle, the female connector reads 12-13 volts. Although, disconnect and reconnect the power at high idle does not effect the rpm. I repeated the testing for few times and each time it has the same affect. I assumed the high voltage put the ICV to the open position causing high idle. Should the input power to the ICV stay at around 4 volts after engine warmed up? Could this be an issue with ICM?
Very helpful. The ICV on my 92 500SL failed and the replacements were £625 so I fitted one of these units (aftermarket) which cost £28 (about $35). The side port is larger on the R129 but a short piece of heater hose is exactly the right dia to make this fit. With this ICV the R129 idled at 1200 so I made this adjustment and it now idles steady at 600.
@Rob Miles Hi Rob, That’s interesting and good to know. I tried one of those aftermarket units back in January and on the 560 the engine would rev up to 1400 and then then drop down and the engine died. I tried to adjust the spring, but on this Chinese / eBay version I had bought, there was no brass guide to be pulled in or out to adjust. Could you please tell us where you obtained your ICV? Unfortunately TH-cam users cannot post links in the comments section due to spam issues Thanks Peter
Rob, just saw you posted a comment which was immediately removed by TH-cam. I guess it contained a link. Please try to repost it without the link. I will try to google it
@@inovahightechltd OK that's very odd, I didn't put a link in. I'll try the main text again. 2 of us had the same very high -2000 rpm idle on 92 R129 500SL. The R129 uses a special ICV with an oval port, crazy since the manifold ports are round and the same size as the 107/126. The aftermarket ICVs fit with some heater hose to pack out to the oval rubber boot (that actually is circular!). With the cheap ICV the engine idles at 1200 but is correct in every other way so pulling the sleeve out 2 - 3 mm brings the idle to 600. The cheap ICVs are sticky (poor tolerances?) but do settle to a steady rpm.
Hi Rob, thanks for the update. That leaves us only with the question of which one of the cheap ICV’s u actually bought. There are three Chinese version/manufacture of this ICV
I am making a wiring harness for a custom project. This is a w113-230SL with a 560SL R107 engine and transmission. The only signal I have not been able to direct to appropriate place is the SPEED INPUT coming out of the electronic speedometer to CIS-E and IDDLE CONTROLLER
The W113 didn’t have the Hall effect circuit to generate the speed signal on the odometer like the W126 You may want to check the cruise control controller and see how this unit gets its speed signal in the W113 On the W126 the speed signal is a 50/50 duty cycle pulse of about 10V+ The frequency is directly proportional to measured speed. From my measurements on the MY89 W126 560SEL 30 - 40 miles equates to a frequency off ~ 85Hz th-cam.com/video/kCGXOKsyXyY/w-d-xo.html
Great video!! Do you know these Idle Control Valves (ICV) are repairable? If the valve gets sticky, brake cleaner will help quite a lot. The other failure I've found is the internal wires break between a pin and the solenoid inside the aluminum housing. I think the solenoid reads around 6 ohms, and an Open (infinite) reading tells you it's broken inside. Unsolder the wires in the pins and get them loose. Dremel cut the bent / rolled part of the case holding the plastic connector in place and remove the black plastic connector with the pins. Solder a new wire to the broken one inside the case and feed it back out through a pin. I used JB Weld epoxy to hold that black plastic piece back in the aluminum housing, then resolder the wires to the pins. Drive away...
From what I understand after watching your videos. When adjusting the idle control valve and the module, we can measure in the bench how much current the valve needs to be fully closed. How can we make sure the ICM (module) outputs the neccesary current? can we measure the current the module outputs in the connector of the idle control valve? thank you
The ICM has only a maximum output of 1000 mA That’s why you need to adjust the ICV so it closes around the mA I suggest in the video. When the ICV age they need more current to close, so you adjust the spring tension and it will work like before
@@inovahightechltd Thank you! Since it's really hard to find new ICM, I just want to see how to test these 'refurbished' ICM modules that are available on ebay. I think if we measure current in the connector of the ICV should give us an idea of the ICM working fine or not?
After 4 years of troubleshooting my idle, finally i watched your videos regarding idle and i managed to fix it! God bless you and thank you for posting such an important videos for us! ❤
Very good well illustrated video! I have an 85 380SL and am having problem with intermit issue with high idle and wondering if you can assist me. After a good cleaning I bench test the ICV and seems to be working normal with the open and close when I applied 4 volts on my power supply unit. But it only shows .49 amps. After install it back on the engine and it started fine with idle normal around 750 rpm. When engine start getting hot, the rpm starts climbing to about 1400 rpm and few minutes later it went back down to normal. A few minutes later the rpm start climbing again. I tested the voltage on each cycle by disconnected the two prongs female connector when it idles at normal and it read about 4 volts. The rpm climbed when I disconnected and went back down to normal when plugged it back in. I did the same testing when it idles at 1400 rpm for few minutes. At high idle, the female connector reads 12-13 volts. Although, disconnect and reconnect the power at high idle does not effect the rpm. I repeated the testing for few times and each time it has the same affect. I assumed the high voltage put the ICV to the open position causing high idle. Should the input power to the ICV stay at around 4 volts after engine warmed up? Could this be an issue with ICM?
Very helpful. The ICV on my 92 500SL failed and the replacements were £625 so I fitted one of these units (aftermarket) which cost £28 (about $35). The side port is larger on the R129 but a short piece of heater hose is exactly the right dia to make this fit. With this ICV the R129 idled at 1200 so I made this adjustment and it now idles steady at 600.
@Rob Miles
Hi Rob,
That’s interesting and good to know. I tried one of those aftermarket units back in January and on the 560 the engine would rev up to 1400 and then then drop down and the engine died.
I tried to adjust the spring, but on this Chinese / eBay version I had bought, there was no brass guide to be pulled in or out to adjust.
Could you please tell us where you obtained your ICV?
Unfortunately TH-cam users cannot post links in the comments section due to spam issues
Thanks Peter
Rob, just saw you posted a comment which was immediately removed by TH-cam. I guess it contained a link. Please try to repost it without the link. I will try to google it
@@inovahightechltd OK that's very odd, I didn't put a link in. I'll try the main text again. 2 of us had the same very high -2000 rpm idle on 92 R129 500SL. The R129 uses a special ICV with an oval port, crazy since the manifold ports are round and the same size as the 107/126. The aftermarket ICVs fit with some heater hose to pack out to the oval rubber boot (that actually is circular!). With the cheap ICV the engine idles at 1200 but is correct in every other way so pulling the sleeve out 2 - 3 mm brings the idle to 600. The cheap ICVs are sticky (poor tolerances?) but do settle to a steady rpm.
OK youtube has just deleted my 2 last posts.
Hi Rob, thanks for the update. That leaves us only with the question of which one of the cheap ICV’s u actually bought.
There are three Chinese version/manufacture of this ICV
I am making a wiring harness for a custom project. This is a w113-230SL with a 560SL R107 engine and transmission. The only signal I have not been able to direct to appropriate place is the SPEED INPUT coming out of the electronic speedometer to CIS-E and IDDLE CONTROLLER
The W113 didn’t have the Hall effect circuit to generate the speed signal on the odometer like the W126
You may want to check the cruise control controller and see how this unit gets its speed signal in the W113
On the W126 the speed signal is a 50/50 duty cycle pulse of about 10V+
The frequency is directly proportional to measured speed. From my measurements on the MY89 W126 560SEL 30 - 40 miles equates to a frequency off ~ 85Hz
th-cam.com/video/kCGXOKsyXyY/w-d-xo.html
Great video!! Do you know these Idle Control Valves (ICV) are repairable? If the valve gets sticky, brake cleaner will help quite a lot. The other failure I've found is the internal wires break between a pin and the solenoid inside the aluminum housing. I think the solenoid reads around 6 ohms, and an Open (infinite) reading tells you it's broken inside. Unsolder the wires in the pins and get them loose. Dremel cut the bent / rolled part of the case holding the plastic connector in place and remove the black plastic connector with the pins. Solder a new wire to the broken one inside the case and feed it back out through a pin. I used JB Weld epoxy to hold that black plastic piece back in the aluminum housing, then resolder the wires to the pins. Drive away...
Excellent video, thank you.
From what I understand after watching your videos. When adjusting the idle control valve and the module, we can measure in the bench how much current the valve needs to be fully closed. How can we make sure the ICM (module) outputs the neccesary current? can we measure the current the module outputs in the connector of the idle control valve? thank you
The ICM has only a maximum output of 1000 mA
That’s why you need to adjust the ICV so it closes around the mA I suggest in the video.
When the ICV age they need more current to close, so you adjust the spring tension and it will work like before
@@inovahightechltd Thank you! Since it's really hard to find new ICM, I just want to see how to test these 'refurbished' ICM modules that are available on ebay. I think if we measure current in the connector of the ICV should give us an idea of the ICM working fine or not?
I have a R129 500sl 119 engine. Idles high when hot can that be sorted by adjusting the valve as shown
@raymondroux9846 not sure, unless the idle control valve is 100% identical to the one shown in the video
Great video.
What happens if CIS-E ECU and IDDLE CONTROLLER does no receive SPEED SIGNAL INPUT from electronic speedometer
Not sure, I have to check and see what symptoms that would cause
Thanks..