1:55 Do not put cylinder cap back on till all bleeding is done ! Soundest one-man DIY method though (affordable vacuum bleed kits are useless), so good video. One point is important to mention however. It's not enough to just pump the brakes till you see no bubbles and a full continuous flow through the bleed tube. You can often have this in 2-3 pumps of the brake pedal - yet still have a spongy brake pedal clearly needing more bleeding. For bleeding with a one-way valve, I've found that 10 pumps of the brake pedal are needed for each nipple with a top-up of the reservoir before each. It may take even more pumps if the brake fluid is being renewed.
Fluid is really inexpensive and can't really be kept in an open bottle. You may as well keep flushing until you have one left. The fluid in this video looks clean but always checking to see what the water content is (a £10 tool) to see if a full flush is necessary.
So far it worked for me on my rear disc brake. I had no grease so I used some other grease to put in. By far had no air going back up after releasing the foot brake. Only issue I had was that the disc pad was stuck as it was being pushed by the cylinder, I had to set it free and unstuck using a flat head screw driver. Once it did let go, the brakes was more responsive and not spongy and manage to pump all the brake fluid and topped it up until it all cleared out. Old fluid had black particles probably from the hose line or the rubber grommet on the cylinder plastic cap.
@@UNKLEWHEELIESON And they are then pushed out in the second press of the pedal. The only reason there was that initial backflow was due to air in the system.
"open the screw half a turn".... It's better to open it a quarter of a turn like you did in the video, it's critical not to open it too much as you can pull air in the threads when you lift off the pedal.
There is no need for the one way check valve.. If you just submerge the hose in the bottle, it won't allow air to travel back. Also a cheaper alternative to self bleeding.
The check valve is just an additional layer of safety since if you screw up and get air in the system, it can get into your ABS and cause a big problem.
If you're not not using a check valve you have to close the bleeder before you release the pedal, open-> press -> close -> release. Otherwise, even with the airlock at the end, you're just pumping the same fluid back and forth
My valve stopped working after doing the first caliper. Instead as soon as the fluid hits the valve, the tube pops off the nipple from the pressure. It was facing the right direction. Can they get air locked or something?
I have some questions, I'm about to change my rear caliper, when I put the hose on the nipple, do I remove the brake resevoire cap or not? Do I pump the pedal all the way to the bottom or like some people say put a block underneath the pedal?
You should leave the cap off as you will probably need to top up the brake fluid reservoir as you bleed the caliper. I always push the pedal all the way down. I've never heard of the block under the pedal idea
Get the brake bleeder that uses a car tyre. It uses air to fill the reservoir and pushes the old fluid out. You just need to open close the bleed valve. Nice and easy. Non of this one way valve, pumping on gas pedal...
I think once the check valve got fluid in it, it started to seal. You can see the bubbles grow when the pedal is released indicating lower pressure. That could only happen if the check valve was sealing.
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1:55 Do not put cylinder cap back on till all bleeding is done !
Soundest one-man DIY method though (affordable vacuum bleed kits are useless), so good video.
One point is important to mention however.
It's not enough to just pump the brakes till you see no bubbles and a full continuous flow through the bleed tube. You can often have this in 2-3 pumps of the brake pedal - yet still have a spongy brake pedal clearly needing more bleeding.
For bleeding with a one-way valve, I've found that 10 pumps of the brake pedal are needed for each nipple with a top-up of the reservoir before each. It may take even more pumps if the brake fluid is being renewed.
Thanks for the tips ! :)
Thanks for tips. So basically just pump brake atleast 10 times for each caliper and top up fluid for each and we good?
@@grilledchickenwrap Yeah - except if renewing the entire system. That could take more, pump till real stiff.
Fluid is really inexpensive and can't really be kept in an open bottle. You may as well keep flushing until you have one left. The fluid in this video looks clean but always checking to see what the water content is (a £10 tool) to see if a full flush is necessary.
Try the brake bleeder that uses the car tyre. Not expensive and works well. I tried a vacuum hand pump one and that was rubbish.
put grease on the bleeder screw threads to prevent air from getting sucked in.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Naw use Teflon tape
So far it worked for me on my rear disc brake. I had no grease so I used some other grease to put in.
By far had no air going back up after releasing the foot brake.
Only issue I had was that the disc pad was stuck as it was being pushed by the cylinder, I had to set it free and unstuck using a flat head screw driver. Once it did let go, the brakes was more responsive and not spongy and manage to pump all the brake fluid and topped it up until it all cleared out.
Old fluid had black particles probably from the hose line or the rubber grommet on the cylinder plastic cap.
Great channel, most of contents were easy to understand and follow 👍
Thanks very much ! :)
So how am I supposed to see the hoses for bubbled from driver seat while pumping? So these things are really one person stays clean brake bleeders lol
nothing beats the two person method👍👍
Is it worth cutting down the check valve to caliper part of the hose to aid in priming the valve?
this is a great method, thanks
Thanks for watching ! :)
1:08 what is the meaning of a cheap one way valve since the fluid turns back as we see?
those are bubbles that haven't pass the valve yet... what you're seeing is the bubbles moving, not fluid going back through the valve.
I seen bubbles go back through the valve
@@UNKLEWHEELIESON And they are then pushed out in the second press of the pedal. The only reason there was that initial backflow was due to air in the system.
@@LBCAndrew ok...im learning
There are several types of check valves. You want to one that spring loaded so it "checks" securely in any orientation.
ah, so with this one way tube you dont have to open/close the drain screw all the time. Nice.
I love the feeling of passing air bubbles! fffrrrrappp! Lol!
I bought one of those valves but it leaks
Neat little tool.Thank you for sharing.M
Cheers :)
"open the screw half a turn".... It's better to open it a quarter of a turn like you did in the video, it's critical not to open it too much as you can pull air in the threads when you lift off the pedal.
If you put some heavy grease around the bleeder, it will help seal it so air is not sucked in if its a loose thread.
There is no need for the one way check valve.. If you just submerge the hose in the bottle, it won't allow air to travel back. Also a cheaper alternative to self bleeding.
The check valve is just an additional layer of safety since if you screw up and get air in the system, it can get into your ABS and cause a big problem.
If you're not not using a check valve you have to close the bleeder before you release the pedal, open-> press -> close -> release.
Otherwise, even with the airlock at the end, you're just pumping the same fluid back and forth
@@Weehapaaexactly
I assume I don't need to open and close tbe bleed nipple like I would normally do if I didn't have this tube
No you shouldn't need to open and close the bleed nipple when using these
Where'd you get the one-way/check valve?
I bought it on ebay :)
Beautiful
Thank you
My valve stopped working after doing the first caliper. Instead as soon as the fluid hits the valve, the tube pops off the nipple from the pressure. It was facing the right direction. Can they get air locked or something?
The valve must have failed internally. Surprising, considering it's such a simple design
I have some questions, I'm about to change my rear caliper, when I put the hose on the nipple, do I remove the brake resevoire cap or not? Do I pump the pedal all the way to the bottom or like some people say put a block underneath the pedal?
You should leave the cap off as you will probably need to top up the brake fluid reservoir as you bleed the caliper. I always push the pedal all the way down. I've never heard of the block under the pedal idea
Get the brake bleeder that uses a car tyre. It uses air to fill the reservoir and pushes the old fluid out. You just need to open close the bleed valve. Nice and easy. Non of this one way valve, pumping on gas pedal...
@@kingmonkey88 yip, and 4 times the price.
@@antonywilson4539 Nope, something like the Gunson Ezibleed. Less than £20. Unbranded versions are even cheaper. Makes brake bleeding so much easier.
@@kingmonkey88 You mean £40 don't you?
i alreadly order this item..
i try blow air with my mouth to that valve.. with correct arrow.. but why the air can not throught that valve 😅
It might need a bit more pressure :)
@@screwsnutsandbolts maybe.. thanks.. i will update later
How to bleed a motorbike
You didn't show us the other end of the tube. Incomplete instructions.
It’s up his ass bro common sense come on
It's crap, a one way valve shouldn't allow anything to pass back but you can clearly see it does. Thanks for helping me decide not to get one! 😁
I think once the check valve got fluid in it, it started to seal. You can see the bubbles grow when the pedal is released indicating lower pressure. That could only happen if the check valve was sealing.
It is actually working fine. what looks like backward flow is the air expanding behind the valve. :)
It's a shame you're not smart enough to see what is actually going on there. Ignorance is bliss though eh?
This video pretty much proves the product (check valve) does not work as you can clearly see brake fluid flowing both ways through the device.