Fantastic video, as someone who has always been interested in electronics and understand some of the basics I greay appreciate your combing over the boards and how you diagnose things.
I have one at home which working well, and the best upgrade I've done with it is replacing the standard satellite driver with 3" mid driver and add small silk dome tweeter above it. SQ improved significantly and now it's really good to play music as well.
The hole in the speaker magnet creates a central air draft zone for depressurization. this helps balance air pressure between the outside and inside of the speaker. This increases the escursion capabilities of the speaker membrane. If there were no hole, the speaker would have difficulty vibrating at high amplitude. It's like trying to squeeze the end of a syringe that gets clogged. it's difficult.
I have these speakers and suddenly they stopped working. Control pod turns on, I hear whatever I'm playing, but within 3 seconds it goes back to standby. Then if I turn it on again, sometimes it doesn't even stay on for long enough for me to hear what I'm playing. Can you please help me fix it for free? It's not worth paying someone to fix it. Thanks.
awesome video I have two of this logitech 5500 with the same problem the ractifier diode , I'm trying to buy it but I can't find it do you mind to share the link where you found it? thanks so much
Hi, the original Part is no longer produced. But I found a well matching replacement part you can get from many distributors. B80C1500G-E4/51 manufactured by Vishay. I hope this helps you.
Hello, my ZZ5500 control panel does not keep memory. When you unplug it, it clears the memory. Why does this happen? I'm guessing it's a capacitor but which one?
This is months late, but I really wanted to find out if the four 100nF 100V 0803 SMD Capacitors, C35 etc. you mentioned replacing at 1:10:06 in the video, did they actually go bad? Did you test them at the time for their capacitance values? Only asking because parts sourcing and access for me is a bit difficult where I am. I have a replacement bridge rectifier (W06M with higher overvoltage allowance, but seemingly higher _reverse current_ but someone told me it should still be safe)
Hi, I don't think they were bad, but I decided to change them anyways. Mostly because I was not shure if I damaged them while removing the glue. But I think these Capacitors are only for "Electromagnetic Interference" reasons, so if one or more of them get destroyed while exchanging the Rectifier, you can just leave them off. They are not essential for this circuit to work properly. The reverse current of your rectifier is measured at maximum blocking voltage, so it is a lot lower at the operating voltage in your case. (See Figure 4 in the Datasheet) So I see no issue there.
@@cookingcomponents7858 Ohhhh I see. Well thanks for that info. SOrry I took so long to respond, I got busy for a bit and then actually forgot the video I had originally posted on. TH-cam also didn't give me any update on a reply either, so I don't know what's going on.... I'll try replacing that bridge rectifier as soon as a I can. I feel more comfortable just replacing that now.
@@cookingcomponents7858 Wowee, just thought I would update everybody. I finally got the time (and Patience) to disassemble and removed the circuit board to replace the bridge rectifier, but to my horror when I flipped over the board the bridge rectifier seemed ok. However there seemed to be at least three SMT capacitors C23, C27 and C28 that appear to have "exploded". One (C27) looked as if it had completely melted away and taken out one side of the solder pad and tracing. The others seemed to have burned away the solder pads on one side. Needless to say If I was gonna try and fix this it might be tedious since I am not sure if this is the only damaged component on the board.... siggghhhh.. Wonder if any independent party did a replacement design board or something. Anyway. Salty tears for now. Stuck with a wireless earbuds for the moment.
I just turned mine on yesterday and got a loud buzz from all speakers including the sub even at zero volume with no input source connected. So I tore the amp apart to find resistor 21 burnt but still showing 36 OHM. When R21 is removed the speaker don't power on so starting there. I have a replacement new control pod and does the same exact thing with it connected. Everything is half ass soldered and glue everywhere but isn't reading conductive. The rectifier area cleaned up but still looks bad so that's my next step. Hopefully I can save these or will just order a replacement sub on eBay.
Well darn I took the amp board out and some SMD caps without values on the schematic are blown off under the two larger caps. I ordered a replacement sub and it doesn’t work with my controller pod only left and right channels and no digital input at all. Had to order the matching PID controller as well. Costing me more than I wanted to spend but still the best 5.1 computer speakers out there.
Just starting the video. I have the previous version: Logitech Z-680 (original owner). The amp inside the subwoofer has several hidden fuses on the PCB inside. They are glass fuses with axial leads that are soldered to the PCB (no fuse holders). They also heat-shrinked them making them very hard to recognize as fuses. Usually you lose only one channel or another but it seems you lost all but the subwoofer.
I’m glad to hear from you, I hope you and your brother are doing well. I don’t think that heat shrinking on fuses is done to hide them. I most often see it, when they are mounted standing upright from the PCB and then it is done for electrical insulation reasons, so that the bare metal of the fuse can’t touch other components. As far as I know, in the Z-5500 there is only one „meling fuse“ and that is installed above the power socket on the back of the device and is easily reachable. (needed to change it a couple of times)
@@cookingcomponents7858 Thanks! Things are still upside down but we finally have a place to move our mother into… if she’ll stop fighting! I believe the Z-680 and Z-5500 sets are largely the same with the biggest difference being the control pod (same pinout) and cosmetic design. Google searching around 2005 revealed many people with the same issue I was having (missing channel). After buying mine on clearance in 2004 I waited almost 1 year to set them up for the first time with a new HTPC build. I immediately I ran into problems with the multi channel test and returned to troubleshoot a few days later. That’s when I realized I was missing entire channels but the main fuse was OK. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure out that it was a hardware problem until I was two days past the end of my warranty and all Logitech would do was offer me a half-price Z-5500. I couldn’t even pay for a repair. I declined the Z-5500 offer since that would mean I paid full price after “bait and switch” half-price speakers. After confirming the external fuse was good (same place you describe) I looked inside for others and didn’t see any. I boxed it back up, shoved it in the barn loft, and left it for over a decade. Many years later I looked inside again and spotted the fuses soldered to the board, mostly because there was exactly one per channel and I was looking for any failed component that might only affect one channel. I thought they were big black diodes until I saw “F1, F2, F3, …” underneath. Since they weren’t installed vertically I have to assume it is to contain broken glass in a high vibration environment. No doubt, vibration is why so much is glued down. They would’ve been better off without the fuses if they weren’t user serviceable and there was no repair program anyway. Instead of protecting the device they were essentially killing them. Perhaps they eventually realized this and got rid of them.
Might be a build up of static being released somewhere. Instead using your pc/computer, try using your phone if it has a jack port, connect it to the logitech as you would your PC. Hit play on your phone and listen for pops, bangs & whistles. If don't hear any, then it could be your PC that needs a fettle.
You might think I'm crazy regarding static for pops coming through speakers.. I've known fridges switching on the motors automatically, or hairdryers, that causes interference on electrical devices
good day, can I ask for the exact marking of the rectifier, I have the same problem, I can't find it, unreadable, possibly also the capacitor above it, have you changed the capacitance meter there, please, value? thank you very much 🥺💥🙏🙏
what is the difference between the left and right ports with separate cables and the ports that are plugged in without left and right cables is one of them a fake product?
Hello good evening. I have one of these Logitech Z 5500 speakers. I'm been trying to connect a Bluetooth audio receiver to the speakers but no success. I wonder if you could help me with that. And I'd also like to know where the aux in is on these speakers. Thanks a lot.
Hi, You can use the Surround-Sound inputs on the back of the Control-Panel as aux inputs. You only need to flip the switch on the back of the Control-Panel to "Stereo 1-3" and select the correct Input-Channel using the "Input" Button.
I had a set of these speaker but they stopped working no power to the subwoofer don't know what the problem is and I couldn't find anyone to repair them so I had too buy the Logitech Z906 speakers that are nowhere near as good
When I set it to 6ch direct there's a high pitch noise coming from all the 5 speakers. It goes away when i mute the system or when I change it to optical. Any idea?
Have you tryed disconnecting your Audio source? Try unplugging the analog input directly from the controlpanel. If you still have the high-pitch noise, then there is something wrong with your soundsystem.
You might want to check anywhere there is glue and see if you need to add glue. The cone can separate over many years of vibrations and humidity changes. Good luck.
![Logitech Z5500 Destroys OTHER Speakers [LOUD]](/img/n.gif)
Fantastic video, as someone who has always been interested in electronics and understand some of the basics I greay appreciate your combing over the boards and how you diagnose things.
I have one at home which working well, and the best upgrade I've done with it is replacing the standard satellite driver with 3" mid driver and add small silk dome tweeter above it. SQ improved significantly and now it's really good to play music as well.
link to the bits you used?
The hole in the speaker magnet creates a central air draft zone for depressurization. this helps balance air pressure between the outside and inside of the speaker. This increases the escursion capabilities of the speaker membrane. If there were no hole, the speaker would have difficulty vibrating at high amplitude. It's like trying to squeeze the end of a syringe that gets clogged. it's difficult.
and it is also for the ventilation of voice coil i think.
I have these speakers and suddenly they stopped working. Control pod turns on, I hear whatever I'm playing, but within 3 seconds it goes back to standby. Then if I turn it on again, sometimes it doesn't even stay on for long enough for me to hear what I'm playing. Can you please help me fix it for free? It's not worth paying someone to fix it. Thanks.
I have that subwoofer, but the control center is missing. Can it still be used?
awesome video I have two of this logitech 5500 with the same problem the ractifier diode , I'm trying to buy it but I can't find it do you mind to share the link where you found it? thanks so much
Hi,
the original Part is no longer produced.
But I found a well matching replacement part you can get from many distributors.
B80C1500G-E4/51 manufactured by Vishay.
I hope this helps you.
Hello, my ZZ5500 control panel does not keep memory. When you unplug it, it clears the memory. Why does this happen? I'm guessing it's a capacitor but which one?
This is months late, but I really wanted to find out if the four 100nF 100V 0803 SMD Capacitors, C35 etc. you mentioned replacing at 1:10:06 in the video, did they actually go bad? Did you test them at the time for their capacitance values? Only asking because parts sourcing and access for me is a bit difficult where I am. I have a replacement bridge rectifier (W06M with higher overvoltage allowance, but seemingly higher _reverse current_ but someone told me it should still be safe)
Hi,
I don't think they were bad, but I decided to change them anyways.
Mostly because I was not shure if I damaged them while removing the glue.
But I think these Capacitors are only for "Electromagnetic Interference" reasons, so if one or more of them get destroyed while exchanging the Rectifier, you can just leave them off. They are not essential for this circuit to work properly.
The reverse current of your rectifier is measured at maximum blocking voltage, so it is a lot lower at the operating voltage in your case. (See Figure 4 in the Datasheet)
So I see no issue there.
@@cookingcomponents7858 Ohhhh I see. Well thanks for that info. SOrry I took so long to respond, I got busy for a bit and then actually forgot the video I had originally posted on. TH-cam also didn't give me any update on a reply either, so I don't know what's going on.... I'll try replacing that bridge rectifier as soon as a I can. I feel more comfortable just replacing that now.
@@cookingcomponents7858 Wowee, just thought I would update everybody. I finally got the time (and Patience) to disassemble and removed the circuit board to replace the bridge rectifier, but to my horror when I flipped over the board the bridge rectifier seemed ok. However there seemed to be at least three SMT capacitors C23, C27 and C28 that appear to have "exploded". One (C27) looked as if it had completely melted away and taken out one side of the solder pad and tracing. The others seemed to have burned away the solder pads on one side. Needless to say If I was gonna try and fix this it might be tedious since I am not sure if this is the only damaged component on the board.... siggghhhh.. Wonder if any independent party did a replacement design board or something. Anyway. Salty tears for now. Stuck with a wireless earbuds for the moment.
I just turned mine on yesterday and got a loud buzz from all speakers including the sub even at zero volume with no input source connected. So I tore the amp apart to find resistor 21 burnt but still showing 36 OHM. When R21 is removed the speaker don't power on so starting there. I have a replacement new control pod and does the same exact thing with it connected. Everything is half ass soldered and glue everywhere but isn't reading conductive. The rectifier area cleaned up but still looks bad so that's my next step. Hopefully I can save these or will just order a replacement sub on eBay.
Well darn I took the amp board out and some SMD caps without values on the schematic are blown off under the two larger caps. I ordered a replacement sub and it doesn’t work with my controller pod only left and right channels and no digital input at all. Had to order the matching PID controller as well. Costing me more than I wanted to spend but still the best 5.1 computer speakers out there.
Any idea for a fix for black bars on the control pod?
Just starting the video. I have the previous version: Logitech Z-680 (original owner). The amp inside the subwoofer has several hidden fuses on the PCB inside. They are glass fuses with axial leads that are soldered to the PCB (no fuse holders). They also heat-shrinked them making them very hard to recognize as fuses. Usually you lose only one channel or another but it seems you lost all but the subwoofer.
I’m glad to hear from you, I hope you and your brother are doing well.
I don’t think that heat shrinking on fuses is done to hide them. I most often see it, when they are mounted standing upright from the PCB and then it is done for electrical insulation reasons, so that the bare metal of the fuse can’t touch other components.
As far as I know, in the Z-5500 there is only one „meling fuse“ and that is installed above the power socket on the back of the device and is easily reachable. (needed to change it a couple of times)
@@cookingcomponents7858 Thanks! Things are still upside down but we finally have a place to move our mother into… if she’ll stop fighting!
I believe the Z-680 and Z-5500 sets are largely the same with the biggest difference being the control pod (same pinout) and cosmetic design. Google searching around 2005 revealed many people with the same issue I was having (missing channel).
After buying mine on clearance in 2004 I waited almost 1 year to set them up for the first time with a new HTPC build. I immediately I ran into problems with the multi channel test and returned to troubleshoot a few days later. That’s when I realized I was missing entire channels but the main fuse was OK. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure out that it was a hardware problem until I was two days past the end of my warranty and all Logitech would do was offer me a half-price Z-5500. I couldn’t even pay for a repair. I declined the Z-5500 offer since that would mean I paid full price after “bait and switch” half-price speakers.
After confirming the external fuse was good (same place you describe) I looked inside for others and didn’t see any. I boxed it back up, shoved it in the barn loft, and left it for over a decade.
Many years later I looked inside again and spotted the fuses soldered to the board, mostly because there was exactly one per channel and I was looking for any failed component that might only affect one channel. I thought they were big black diodes until I saw “F1, F2, F3, …” underneath.
Since they weren’t installed vertically I have to assume it is to contain broken glass in a high vibration environment. No doubt, vibration is why so much is glued down.
They would’ve been better off without the fuses if they weren’t user serviceable and there was no repair program anyway. Instead of protecting the device they were essentially killing them. Perhaps they eventually realized this and got rid of them.
Also fooled by the faux grill screws 😁😁😁
I did wonder why they unscrewed so easily.
I have Z5400 model.
I have a problem with my speakers because they don't turn on 8 out of 10 times. Does anyone know what could be the cause?
whats your microscope mate.
My z5500 subwoofer keeps blowing fuses immediately, I’m not sure where to start.
i have problem with random poping sound even if my pc is at idle. all my connections re ok. u know any way to fix it?
Might be a build up of static being released somewhere. Instead using your pc/computer, try using your phone if it has a jack port, connect it to the logitech as you would your PC. Hit play on your phone and listen for pops, bangs & whistles. If don't hear any, then it could be your PC that needs a fettle.
You might think I'm crazy regarding static for pops coming through speakers..
I've known fridges switching on the motors automatically, or hairdryers, that causes interference on electrical devices
good day, can I ask for the exact marking of the rectifier, I have the same problem, I can't find it, unreadable, possibly also the capacitor above it, have you changed the capacitance meter there, please, value? thank you very much 🥺💥🙏🙏
Nice video
what is the difference between the left and right ports with separate cables and the ports that are plugged in without left and right cables
is one of them a fake product?
can u explain more
@@rouuuk The plug on the subwoofer is a clamp
Hello good evening. I have one of these Logitech Z 5500 speakers. I'm been trying to connect a Bluetooth audio receiver to the speakers but no success. I wonder if you could help me with that. And I'd also like to know where the aux in is on these speakers. Thanks a lot.
Hi,
You can use the Surround-Sound inputs on the back of the Control-Panel as aux inputs.
You only need to flip the switch on the back of the Control-Panel to "Stereo 1-3" and select the correct Input-Channel using the "Input" Button.
in the z680 they used the same 5.5 mm nuts under the board !!! go figure
The hole in the magnet of the speaker is for cooling the coil i guess :)
Maybe...
But it could be just for weight, so that the product feels more premium. 🤣
Mine of 12 years just died today. I mean its still turns on but i get no sound :(
RIP
I had a set of these speaker but they stopped working no power to the subwoofer don't know what the problem is and I couldn't find anyone to repair them so I had too buy the Logitech Z906 speakers that are nowhere near as good
Could you repair my control pod?
i checked everything is fine and it's still a white screen
if not to the woofer
Are you still getting sound and are you able to control the volume?
top job !!!!!!!!!!!!
When I set it to 6ch direct there's a high pitch noise coming from all the 5 speakers. It goes away when i mute the system or when I change it to optical.
Any idea?
Have you tryed disconnecting your Audio source?
Try unplugging the analog input directly from the controlpanel.
If you still have the high-pitch noise, then there is something wrong with your soundsystem.
@@cookingcomponents7858 already fixed it.. it was a bad capacitor in the control unit.. thanks anyway.
@@ToldYouSo18 How'd you know it was the cap? Bulged?
@sypher0101 no... they all looked completely fine, I just replaced the one everyone was talking about.
Mine has a serious loud buzz and I just unplugged it and I still have it and never attempted to fix
You might want to check anywhere there is glue and see if you need to add glue. The cone can separate over many years of vibrations and humidity changes. Good luck.
@@hcho8164 thank you
check the connections and move the volume dial until it stops
U mnie test szumu nie trybie 😅
💘 'promosm'