I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it, but some folks have said the 2K products contain isocyanates, and can be absorbed thru the skin, so it is recommended to wear gloves and a suit. Although I fully understand skipping it on such a small job, I'd be tempted that way also.
Love your videos Josh and look forward to each release. I could be completely wrong here with my comment since your dealing with epoxy paint, but years ago when I painted cars for a hobby, I wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between my primer and lacquer top coat only to discover I had poor adhesion between the two surfaces. The color coat which looked Beautiful after buffing literally fell off the primer in sheets with only a tap of something hard like a screw driver handle. After visiting the paint shop experts they informed me that I should never wet sand with any finer grit between coats than 400. The 600 and finer grits like 1200 are for final finishing not for sanding between coats. Again....I could be completely off base being this is an epoxy paint. Thanks again for the video's!
I hope your clear coat works out better than mine did. My clear wound up cracking after 5 days. Not only could I scratch it off the surface, it cracked like glass.
Love your videos. Keep them coming... restoing my 1974 z50 for my granddaughter , and me ha.. just wandering what was the ppg paint code on that can .if you still have it. Thanks bro.
Thank you for this video, I'm looking into this now for a project I'm going to do next summer refurbishing my dad's old 1988 F250 and I've never used any clear coat ever (I'm a complete rookie to all this). I have a question based on all the research I'm doing. How is this any different than the KBS clear coat which also doesn't need to be mixed with a hardener and all that? Any knowledge you have is appreciated. Thank you.
Nice work! Good test. How has it held up? Finish looked very nice. I just laid out a test piece with Car-Rep 2K Clear Coat over some Krylon 1K Shimmer Metallic Gold. Looks nice, drying for a day so far. Was definitely able to be handled quickly, laid out pretty flat, fairly hard after a day but I can tell it needs more time for full abrasion resistance. Planning to do a set of wheels with the system.
Bike went to owner a long time ago so no long term info. A single stage acrylic needs to dry for a while before putting this 2k clear over it or it will cause issues from gassing out of base coat and sealed with 2k.
@@VintageHondaMinis Car-Rep told me to let a 1K dry for 30 to 45 minutes before coating with their 2K clear. So far my test piece seems fine, but I do wonder if it means the base coat won't fully dry. I'm wondering if spraying the clear on fairly quickly allows for a chemical bond rather then needing to sand and then recoat. At any rate that's why I'm running a test. Good stuff again!
The bike/parts are with the owner, so no follow-up on it. I will say that I have bought a detail spray gun and intend to start spraying with a compressor/gun setup instead of cans.
I thought car-rep 2K aerosol was iso free? …but I can’t find the info. Eastwood’s dura-spray is described as the same and is listed as iso free. SprayMax is definitely not iso free.
And he would've heard you say that if he'd simply listened to the first 1.5 min of the video. And their vote in an election counts just as much as mine. smh
I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it, but some folks have said the 2K products contain isocyanates, and can be absorbed thru the skin, so it is recommended to wear gloves and a suit.
Although I fully understand skipping it on such a small job, I'd be tempted that way also.
Update please if it's still holding up
Love your videos Josh and look forward to each release. I could be completely wrong here with my comment since your dealing with epoxy paint, but years ago when I painted cars for a hobby, I wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between my primer and lacquer top coat only to discover I had poor adhesion between the two surfaces. The color coat which looked Beautiful after buffing literally fell off the primer in sheets with only a tap of something hard like a screw driver handle. After visiting the paint shop experts they informed me that I should never wet sand with any finer grit between coats than 400. The 600 and finer grits like 1200 are for final finishing not for sanding between coats. Again....I could be completely off base being this is an epoxy paint. Thanks again for the video's!
Car-Rep is part of the Maston group in Finland they actually sell cans of commonly used motorcycle paints
Lucky guy!
My car-rep 2k gloss clear coat can I've ordered to give a try was defective😡
I hope your clear coat works out better than mine did. My clear wound up cracking after 5 days. Not only could I scratch it off the surface, it cracked like glass.
Hi Justin - Possibly the rustoleum base coat caused the failure.
Lovely finish
Love your videos. Keep them coming... restoing my 1974 z50 for my granddaughter , and me ha.. just wandering what was the ppg paint code on that can .if you still have it. Thanks bro.
How did you like the 2k clear coat? I’ve used spray max but never car rep
Thank you for this video, I'm looking into this now for a project I'm going to do next summer refurbishing my dad's old 1988 F250 and I've never used any clear coat ever (I'm a complete rookie to all this). I have a question based on all the research I'm doing. How is this any different than the KBS clear coat which also doesn't need to be mixed with a hardener and all that? Any knowledge you have is appreciated. Thank you.
Nice work! Good test. How has it held up? Finish looked very nice. I just laid out a test piece with Car-Rep 2K Clear Coat over some Krylon 1K Shimmer Metallic Gold. Looks nice, drying for a day so far. Was definitely able to be handled quickly, laid out pretty flat, fairly hard after a day but I can tell it needs more time for full abrasion resistance. Planning to do a set of wheels with the system.
Bike went to owner a long time ago so no long term info. A single stage acrylic needs to dry for a while before putting this 2k clear over it or it will cause issues from gassing out of base coat and sealed with 2k.
@@VintageHondaMinis Car-Rep told me to let a 1K dry for 30 to 45 minutes before coating with their 2K clear. So far my test piece seems fine, but I do wonder if it means the base coat won't fully dry. I'm wondering if spraying the clear on fairly quickly allows for a chemical bond rather then needing to sand and then recoat. At any rate that's why I'm running a test. Good stuff again!
You kept mentioning the blue basecoat was a 2K but the label clearly said 1K. Did the paint supplier mis-label it?
Thanks
It's been a couple months now. How are the components holding up with the Car-Rep finish?
The bike/parts are with the owner, so no follow-up on it. I will say that I have bought a detail spray gun and intend to start spraying with a compressor/gun setup instead of cans.
I thought car-rep 2K aerosol was iso free? …but I can’t find the info. Eastwood’s dura-spray is described as the same and is listed as iso free. SprayMax is definitely not iso free.
I’m afraid of using 2k nasty stuff, but looks great
Is it fuel resistant?
Yes the 2k urethane clear is fuel resistant
And he would've heard you say that if he'd simply listened to the first 1.5 min of the video. And their vote in an election counts just as much as mine. smh
WOW!