LED Edge Lit Acrylic Signs On The CNC
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 เม.ย. 2017
- Using the CNC to make lighted acrylic signs in the home woodworking shop. This video covers LED light strips, LED power supply, diamond drag bit, making the base, wiring, soldering switch, connectors and tools used to make the sign. This video also shows settings and screens in Vectric Aspire and VCarve Pro.
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Thank you for the detailed description of the process. By following this vid a person should have no trouble making one. Well done!
Thank you!
That is how an instructional video should be made. Thanks
Thank you! -- Dave
One of the finest edge lit sign designs I have seen on TH-cam. Great video as well. Thanks!
Dave, not to many people explain as good as you on this video. Your job is fantabulous! Thank you for letting us know the right way to do these kind of signs.
SMD Means "Surface Mounted Devices". An SMD can be a Diode, Resistor, Capacitor, a Transistor or a complete chip etc. GREAT Video.
Brilliant! Every single question already addressed! Well done!
Wow. Very comprehensive. Thanks Dave !
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to explain your process in detail.
Thanks for all the tips. That’s a big help for beginners
Thanks, Dave. Great Tutorial.
Thanks again Dave, Great Video and awesome narrating.
Great, detailed video. Thank you very much for your time.
Great video Dave and crew!
Great detailed article Thanks for making it easy to understand .
Super detailed video. Thanks for sharing
my pleasure, Chris. Glad it helped!
Very informative, thanks for taking the time.
Great Video, Love the tips I have learned from it
Nice informative and elaborate video Dave..Thanks for sharing your research.
Outstanding video thanks for sharing.
excellent video. thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. All diy video makers should be required to look at this
From nothern Michigan, just ordered my first CNC. Great video, thanks for the knowledge!
Great to hear from you! If you are interested, Michigan has an active CNC group on Facebook of about 450 members. Look of Michigan CNC Router Tips.
nice video Dave very detailed
Excellent presentation
Thank you
Very nice! Thank you for the great explanation. Certainly will help in my upcoming projects.
Excellent video ...plain and simple very detailed in an easy to understand voiceover!!
Thanks!
Thanks for the great information...
Very nice video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks !!..Great Video
very nice thanks for share your works
Great video, Thanks
I admire your work sir, very detailed and meticulous very nice!!!
Thank you! Happy to be of help.
Excellent tutorial!
Thanks!
@@DaveVanAntwerp I need to consider narrating my build videos. I love how you explained everything and even went into detail on the differences between the types of LEDs, etc... A most excellent video for sure!
Fantastic narration! Wonderful and comprehensive documentation! I commend you for your wonderful production! I will be following your instructions my future projects!
Thank you! So many people are making good videos these days that I haven't done one in a long time.
@@DaveVanAntwerp, I'd say that this one is pretty much timeless.
@@kyleniedermeier6651 I agree!
GREAT VIDEO DAVE! I've seen several examples of edge lit signs on face book and have been eager to try and make one. After watching your video, I definitely will. Wish I lived closer, I would spend some of my "boring" retirement time watching and learning from you guys. Thanks
Road trip!!! We are fortunate to have an active CNC woodworking community here in Michigan with lots of shop visits and "How To" seminars. Last Saturday four people from different parts of the state came over to my shop to learn how to make cribbage boards. We had a great time!
@@DaveVanAntwerp which side of Lake Michigan are you on Dave? I live in central Wi and would gladly drive to learn
Nicely done Gentlemen, very informative, just getting started doing cnc. Retirement is boring than I anticipated
When people find out you are running a CNC in your shop, Greg, you will be swamped with requests. We were bored when we retired also - for about two days. We make a lot of gifts for friends and family but we also make projects for non-profit fundraising auctions which is a lot of fun, and we do several one-day art shows before Christmas for which we need to make several dozen projects to sell at the shows.. These lighted signs are very popular, but we do even more inlaid cutting boards, wall hangings and end tables. If you haven't checked out our inlay video yet, you might want to. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/WYnO8kSHQ1c/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic vidio I am new to CNC ! ! You should put on a work shop on how to make these for I know I be first in line to get hands on leasons I am a 60 years young looking on what to do in retierment here in Ontario. thanks again for a wondefull vidio
Great tutorial! Never tin a wire that gets crimped though.
Very nice work, and excellent results. I was wondering why you chose a lighted switch since I think it's distracting and doesn't add to the overall project. I would have chosen a concealed switch, but that's my personal preference.
Great video guys. I have all the required materials except for the switch. Could you tell me where you purchase
these please. Thanks for a great video again.
Hello Dave,
Thanks for your tutorial.
What kind of specie of wood did you use ?
Pinewood
Oakwood ?
Awesome Tutorial! New to Acrylic carving, You have a new follower, Do you use a 90 degree for most of your engraving?
Thank you! I usually use a 60 degree V-Bit. As fun as the acrylic signs are to make, I'm spending all my time combining laser engraving with the wood projects I make in my shop. And as much as l like making videos, I haven't done a video in several years. There are so many good CNC videos out there, like Mark Lindsay CNC. I leave the videos to the good guys and spend my time making stuff. Here's a link to Mark Lindsay: th-cam.com/video/fhFC1r_PtL0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oCrRVF5sf8ax8x4u
Responding to a question about the bit used for this sign, the diamond drag bit is a 1/4 inch 90 degree bit from eBay - about $50 right now. The same seller also has a replacement tip available for $25 in case it is needed. But diamond on acrylic should last just about forever. There are only a couple of sellers on eBay with diamond drag bits - any of them are good. Some people prefer the 1/4 inch 120 degree diamond drag bit. They feel like it makes a stronger line. They may be right - I haven't tried it yet.
Ebay links change often. At this time, the link is www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-DRAG-ENGRAVING-TOOL-BIT-SPRING-LOADED-DIAMOND-SHERLINE-TAIG-MILL-TORMACH-BF2-/192215754462?epid=753133425&hash=item2cc0f3a6de:g:okAAAOSwPc9WzRo0
The MICHIGAN STATE SIGN made me like this
great stuff, I'm going to ask, will you share your vetric file for the base wood and acrylic cutouts, the 4 pieces? I say thanks ahead of time
instead of the black electrical tape for snugness...what i use is gorilla "waterproof patch and seal" in the aerosal can... i'm able to get a pretty snug fit with my cnc by using the "inside or outside path depending on which operation i need....i get my bits from kodiakcutting tools......in their micro bit area....usually less than $10....sometimes only need 1 layer of gorilla.....and after curing for a day or 2, it isn't comimg off.....i just use tape for my line and peel it off before it dries.....just an fyi
Dave,
I thank you for this video, I've pretty much been able to duplicate it, of course with my own design acrylic, using vcarve pro, and a diamond tip bit, it cameor beautiful, but one thing, I used the engrave option in vcarve, the outline, the issue is it appears the outline on about half the letters is off, hoping you can assist in shining some light, thanks ahead
Greg, sounds like the problem might be in the way your CNC looks ahead to changing direction. With such a small stepover there are thousands of direction changes when engraving acrylic. On my CNC I need to change settings when switching from wood to acrylic. All CNCs are different so you might want to post in some of the online CNC groups to find others with a CNC like yours and ask who has been successful in engraving acrylic.
@@DaveVanAntwerp ty
SMD actually means Surface Mounted Device because it is not limited to diodes only and is an alternative to PTL or Plated Through Hole.
Appreciate your note! Some sources say SMD is an abbreviation for Surface Mounted Diode and others say SMD is an abbreviation for Surface Mounted Device. Looking at a variety of sources it appears that both are commonly used. In this case the video is about diodes so it seems appropriate to use the "Surface Mounted Diode" explanation, but as long as the sign lights up the way it should, that is all that matters. Thanks again for taking time to share that explanation.
Hey mate. Looking to make one of these for a concept project. Looking for something on the cheaper entry end model at around $500. You have any recommendations?
Well explained, any reason why you wouldn't solder the pigtail directly to the strip or switch to keep the speaker wire inside the base?
That works. I've refined the electrical setup on my acrylic signs a bit since I made that video. I now install a jack on the back of the base into which I can plug the power cord.
Great idea. One question: Why not make the bottom of the base one solid piece of wood and skip using 1/8” plywood? Thanks for sharing.
Don, there is not reason in the world you couldn't make the base one solid piece of wood. I use the plywood because I sometimes make mistakes and that makes it easier for me to get back inside and correct my mistakes. But there is no rule that says it needs to be done that way. Good question.
Dave, fantastic video. Any chance you could throw a list of the items and specs along with cut sizes only of the materials? Understand you not sharing files but this would make it easier for us Newby's. Especially for us Yoopers. Thanks again.
Hi, John, I get that question quite often but there are two reasons sharing files doesn't work well. Most of my components came from Ebay and the sellers have changed. As for cut sizes, those depend on your components. Are you still a Yooper? Join the Michigan CNC Router Tips group on Facebook. 300 members in Michigan. You will get lots of help with CNC projects. I'll be glad to walk you through the edge lit sign process.
@@DaveVanAntwerp Wow! how did I not see this reply until now?
I am and always will be a yooper, born and raised. Right now I live in Colorado and my wife and I plan to move back up that way in about five years. I am going to look into the Michigan CNC Router Tips. Thanks.
Hi Dave, Great video..what secures the #4 screws? how did you get those round little tabs on the acrylic middle piece please?
Thanks for your compliment, Dale. Using the CNC, when I cut out the base and the acrylic I drilled holes In the round tabs for a #8 wood screw to go through the base and the acrylic and anchor in the top. If I remember correctly the holes are 3/8 inch to allow the #8 wood screw to pass through. It then screws into the top part of the base. I beveled the hole for the head of the wood screw. It's critical in the design phase to place the holes in the proper locations for the screws to pass through. I think I used square drive wood screws about 1 1/2 inch long. It's been quite a while since I made an edge lit acrylic sign so I'm going from memory here.
Great video! What CNC are you using?
My CNC is home built from online plans called "Joe's CNC". I'm using Vectric VCarve Pro and Mach3 for software.
Great work!!!!. What were your feed rate and spindle speeds when cutting out acrylic with 1/8 2 flute bit. Thanks.
Speeds and feeds are going to vary with each different CNC. Mine is quite rigid so I can run as fast as I like. With acrylic I like to go quickly so it cuts rather than melts. If I recall correctly (it's been a long time) I'm thinking the feed rate was probably 80 inches per minute and the spindle speed was 19,000 rpm.
Great design. Question: Do LED strips emit white light by default? Can another color be pre-set?
LED strips come in a variety of colors or strips that can emit an infinite number of colors controlled by a remote control. The video explains some of those features. You might want to search for "LED strips" to learn more about the options available.
Dave Van Antwerp I know they do different colors. I guess I meant - when you solder the wires on and power it up - is it white light by default?
James, if you select a green LED strip it will light up green when you power it up. If you select a blue LED strip it will light up blue when you power it up. If you select an RGB strip you will wire it to a controller so you can select the color.
Dave Van Antwerp Thank you Dave. I did not know that!
David nice job! Where are you in MI? I am in Eaton Rapids.
Thanks! I'm near Kalamazoo. You might like to know there is a Michigan CNC Group on Facebook with nearly 300 members. We do shop visits and a seminar once a year. It's quite helpful. You might want to check it out. However, joining does require people use their real name.
Dave, thank you for sharing. I’ve made my sign following your design with a couple modifications. For the base I did a pocket so it is one piece. Then I mounted a switch in the side. I’m also using 5v led strips that use a USB plug. MY CONCERN IS HEAT. the bottom is a tight seal due to the “sandwich” effect. I can feel the heat on the bottom where the led strip is mounted. Have you experienced this? I’m looking at placing a piece of heat shield tape in the bottom and then mounting the led strip on top. Also considering drilling a couple holes in the plexiglass piece. Any suggestions?
Joe, glad you found the video helpful. One of the beautiful things about what we do is there is no "right" or "wrong". There is only "whatever works for you." I started with a plan for a single part base and changed it to a multi part because I like the way it looks. There are many other ways to make a base that work just as well. I have not used the 5V LED strip with USB plug so I can't offer an opinion there. I've not had any problem with heat. I would encourage you to experiment until you come up with a base you really like. That's the fun of it!
Will this technique work with mirrors. So you have a reflective surface with etching for light to shine through.
I've never tried it or seen it done with mirrors. Do one and let us know! -- Dave
Great video. Go Green! Can you give little more info on the specific diamond drag bit you use?
The diamond drag bit is a 1/4 inch 90 degree bit from eBay - about $50 right now. The same seller also has a replacement tip available for $25 in case it is needed. But diamond on acrylic should last just about forever. There are only a couple of sellers on eBay with diamond drag bits - any of them are good. Some people prefer the 1/4 inch 120 degree diamond drag bit. They feel like it's a stronger line. They may be right - I haven't tried it yet.
Thanks for the great information. I have been doing acrylic engraving for quite awhile but never with a drag bit. Looking at eBay I only found a spring loaded bit, is that the type of bit you are using? Is there a reason you don't pocket the bottom piece rather then the profile cut then adding back the plywood section (did I miss your explanation)? I'm using the Desktop version, In the work you do does the Pro version give you the options that are (necessary) for your LED work? again thanks for a top notch video--your sure lucky to have two pals to work with
Thanks for your compliments, Lyle. The spring loaded bit on eBay is the one I use. Two reasons I cut out the bottom piece and make separate plywood section. The first is that it makes it much easier to install the lights and wire them. Second is that it gives more room inside - for the switch, and it makes more distance between the lights and the acrylic which eliminates hot spots. There is no right or wrong way to do it - this is the way that produces the results I like. VCarve Desktop probably gives you the ability to make a lighted sign like this, but in my opinion upgrading to VCarve Pro is definitely worth the investment. So many more capabilities.
Dave Van Antwerp could you by any chance link the bit you use?
Well done Sir, have you done any multi color signs?
I have done signs using RGB LED strips with a control that changes colors, but only one color at a time. In order to do a sign with multiple colors at the same time, each color needs its own sheet of acrylic and its own LED strip. I have seen them but have not made them myself. Could be cool.
nice video thanks, just curious, how long to engrave that. I just picked up a drag bit, and did a big stepover. I think it was .08" and took 3 hours to do a small project. this must have taken hours?
It's about a 45 minute cut. A large stepover isn't as attractive as a smaller stepover. I generally do a 0.01 stepover running about 80 inches per minute in a raster pattern (straight lines rather than following the outline). My goal with the tight stepover is so each succeeding line will touch the previous line giving a look of solid engraving.
Where do you like to get your LED Strips? Do you generally get the RGB strips and just wire up the color you want? Great video
LED strips are available lots of places. We generally buy ours on eBay. We don't get the least expensive ones but we don't get the most expensive either. We do enough signs that we buy LED strips in specific colors as well as RGB, but there's no problem using an RGB strip and wiring the color you want.
what are the general dimensions of the base and acrylic?
Hi Dave, great video. You answer all the questions I had related to acrylic signs. I do have one question that I found nobody asked here. When you use RGB lights, what controller do you use? The bigger one or the Inline smaller controllers? What is the difference between the two?
Good question! I have used both RGB controllers, depending on how the acrylic is going to be used and where it is going to be located and who is going to use it. For the type with the lighted base that sits on a desk or table like the one above, I would use the smaller inline controller with a hand held remote. When I make a larger one with a frame that hangs on the wall I often use the larger controller that fits inside the frame with a larger hand held remote that has a dial to control the lighting. I've used every type of controller and remote available on Ebay. There is no right or wrong - just what seems appropriate for the situation.
@@DaveVanAntwerp Thanks a lot for quick reply.
I love your sign! Are you willing to share your files and/or the basic dimensions for your cuts? Thanks and keep up the great work!
Hi, Kris, glad you like the sign. I get asked quite often if I'll share the files and I'm happy to share but we found that unless you use the exact same components it won't work. There is so much customizing you might as well design your own sign. It's not hard. I start out with a 12 x 12 inch sheet of acrylic. The sign itself uses 8 inches while the acylic base uses 4 inches. The sign and base are cut out of those dimensions. My sign ends up 10 inches long. The base is 12 inches long. If you look at the pieces in the video you should be able to lay out your sign quite quickly. Since doing that video I have changed to using a socket jack inset into the base instead of the pigtail. Fewer wires and a cleaner installation.
I'm a Vcarve Michigan guy. Hope to see more of your stuff. If you are worried about marks on the acrylic how come you don't do a lead in and lead out? Does it mess up the acrylic?
If you are a VCarve Michigan guy, you might like the Michigan CNC Router Tips Facebook Group at facebook.com/groups/1726726844210927/ .
In the absence of a drag bit, would a very shallow pocket cut work for these as well?
You should try it first on a piece of scrap. Acrylic is not absolutely flat. Some people use a V-bit and are happy with the results, but the lines are not uniform in width. I have not seen anyone try a pocket cut yet. It would be interesting. I'm guessing that heat buildup might be a problem. Try it! Let us know how well it works!
Hi Dave, fellow Michigander here. Was wondering where you’re located. I’m new to cnc carving and would like to get together to learn from you.
Hello, Robert! Would be happy to get together. I'm near Kalamazoo. You might want to check out the Michigan CNC group on Facebook. 250 members. We love shop visits. Here is the link: facebook.com/groups/1726726844210927/
Great video. Looking at the slot for the acrylic.
It looks like the acrylic would sit directly on the LED strip. Is that correct? Is that the way its normally done?
Actually the acrylic is sitting on a ledge above the LED strip. I don't know if there's a "normal" way to do it. I designed it myself and it seemed to work.
@@DaveVanAntwerp yeah I'm not sure either. Maybe I'll make one both ways to see for myself. No ledge would definitely be easier.
How do engrave the acrylic? I tried with a cnc using a diamond drag bit and my results are not giving me that frosted look I see on yours.
The frosted look is accomplished with two things - the tool library setting for the diamond drag bit, and the stepover. In the tool library the tip sizeneeds to be as small as possible - like 0.01 inch and the stepover needs to be quite small also, probably 10%. One other factor that can affect the result is velocity and acceleration in your motor controls. I use Mach3 on my CNC. When I do acrylic my settings need to be different than for wood. After acrylic I need to set them back to the original settings for wood.
So I was wondering, why did you cut out the bottom section of the base and the bottom insert only to glue it in there instead of changing your carve to include the base?
I make the top and bottom of the base as two separate pieces so the lighted acrylic insert can show around the edges and so it holds the sign up off the LED lights and to make it easier to wire. The insert in the bottom is separate because to give the opportunity to change lights in case a different color is desired later on or in case the lights stop operating. Easy access for repairs and changes. It doesn't need to be done this way. It's purely personal preference.
That makes sense. I figured you were probably wanting to be able to access the wiring and/or lights. A very enjoyable and informative video, Thanks!!!
Dave is it OK to copy your design ? I do have one question would you add a shoulder to the acrylic ??
Please feel free to use the design. Thanks for asking! I'm not sure what a shoulder would look like. All I can suggest is try it and see if you like it.
Where did you get those spiffy switches?
We found those switches on eBay. I can't give you an exact link because it has changed, but search eBay for automotive rocker switches or lighted rocker switches. You will find singles or multiples in single color or several colors. Ours came in packages of 20 - 5 each of 4 colors.
Great video!!! Are you using 5050/150 or 5050/300 LED strips?
I use 5050 / 300 LED strips. I might go to to high density strips for blue. My blue lights have faded over the past year.
On completely another project, I learned yesterday that LED strips need to be connected in series not in parallel. I burned out 3 power supplies before I realized I couldn't connect them in parallel.
Thanks! I'm considering just using RGB. The strips and controllers are almost the same cost and then the color can be user selected. Don't have to stock reels of different color LED's.
RGB lights are great. I use RGB lights for wall-hung framed acrylic signs. The difference is that RGB lights require a remote control rather than a switch. That's the only reason I haven't used RGB for the table top signs. I don't always use standard remote controls with the wall-hung framed signs. I quite often use a dusk-dawn photocell or a motion detector switch to turn the LED sign on and off.
I have been given some acrylic over the years and most don't have anything on the paper to tell me if it is cast or extruded. Is there any way to tell? What is the downside of extruded? Some of it seems much more rigid than others.
DAMHIKT - removing paper from aged acrylic is a special pain.
Fortunately there are several youtube videos on how to tell whether acrylic sheet is cast or extruded, and how to remove old backing from acrylic sheet. I would suggest you Google both questions or search TH-cam.
Hi, I have Vcarve Pro and a HD4 Shark CNC Router. Would you be interested in sharing the Vcarve File. If not I completely understand. Great Vid!
I wouldn't mind sharing, - I get asked that a lot. But I haven't shared files for the simple reason that unless you use exactly the same components in exactly the same sizes, my files won't do you much good. With the details in the video you should be able to lay out your own files quite easily. And it's great practice!
Does the light on acrylic still viewable even during the day ?
The brighter the light in the room the less visible the sign. Some colors are visible in full light but they aren't bright. Other colors are not very visible at all in bright light. I have made several copies of a Gypsy Horse with blue LEDs. The lines are very fine and the light needs to be dim to see them. However, I made a rose sign on which the lines were more bold and I used red LED. That one is best when light is dim, but it can be viewed in full light.
Which application/software is used for engraving 3d design 🤔
I'm using Vectric VCarve Pro. But most any CNC software can accomplish it. Just set up an engraving toolpath using a diamond drag bit.
What r u using for power supply?...i like the kits that are only $6 that come with the led 1m strip and powerbsupply and rgb remote....i love your design but it way too invloved ..i like to keep it simple....
The nice thing is that your are completely free to construct an edge lit acrylic sign in the manner you like best. This video is to help people who wanted to see how I do it.
where are you finding the kits for $6.00. I can't find them any where for that price
MBL Design LED M4
sir what thickness is the acrylic, I see your cut depth is .35 inch ?
The acrylic I'm using is 3/8 inch. Some use 1/4 inch while some use 1/2 inch. It's a matter of personal preference.
I love the the video and the sign. Anyway you could send me the vectric file to make it.
Thanks for your compliment! It's been so many years since I made any of these signs I wouldn't even know where to find the file. Sorry!
Is the etched part on the front or the back of the sign?
The sign is engraved on the back side with the image mirrored.
@@DaveVanAntwerp thank you.
Anyone have a screen shot of the vcarve 120 degree diamond drag bit setup? I'd love to see the proper setup if anyone is willing. The bit I have has a .25" shank and 120 degree. Thanks in advance.
Ours in the video go to 4:59 on video
Why do you have a plywood insert rather then a pocket cut on the base for the led's?
2 reasons, AJ. First, I find it easier to install lights and solder wires on a flat board than to work down inside a deep pocket. Second, if I want to change light color or make repairs later on, it's a lot easier to simply remove the plywood insert. I'm an old retired guy - I make things as easy as possible while getting the effect I'm looking for. Good question! -- Dave
@@DaveVanAntwerp Thanks for getting back to me. Makes complete sense!
Hi Dave, I'm a newbie at CNC and woodworking, but I'd love to try my hand at this particular type of project (for non-commecial uses). I was wondering if you'd be willing to share your vectric file with me ? I'm still new with Vectric software and i'm in the "learning by extending from examples" stage! :) If not, that's OK too.
Adam, glad you found the video helpful. I understand your request to share the file but it won't work because each project needs to be designed around the components you use. It should be easy for you to design a file that will fit your components. Give it a try! That's half the fun! Good luck! -- Dave
Nice video! But what tool can replace diamond drag tool?
You can use any bit you like. Some will do better than others. All you can do is experiment and see what you like best. I find when I use V-groove bits and end mills I tend to get overheating and melting. That is why I use the diamond drag bit.
Do you have an address for the drag bit please?
www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-CNC-45-90-DEGREE-DRAG-ENGRAVING-TOOL-BIT-WITH-SPRING-LOADED-DIAMOND/192414954167?epid=0&hash=item2cccd332b7:g:okAAAOSwPc9WzRo0
please share the project file
what is name of this sheet? i want to buy from online..
It is called cast acrylic purchased online from Estreet Plastics.
do you happen to have the files for the base for vcarve?
Great to hear from you. As you can imagine, there are three different sets of files for the base. I have tried sharing my files a couple of times but it never works out unless you have exactly the same components, and that doesn't generally happen. You shouldn't have much trouble designing files to make a base that will fit your components now that you have pictures showing how I do it. Give it a try!
i will just draw them up thanks tho great video
Do you have the plans for your led acrylic lights including the base, design and parts list?
Sorry, I did not make a set of plans of materials list. It wasn't difficult to lay out in VCarve Pro. Thanks for asking!
Thanks for the quick reply. I am starting to us vcarve pro. Would you mind emailing me your vcarve file?
Wholesale price sire??? what's your address.,???
i see below you wont share files for understandable reasons, ty
Please send me the working file
Sorry! Everybody needs to make their own file based on the parameters of their own machine and the design they choose. The purpose of this video is to show you how to make your own file.
Why leave the speaker wire and heat-shrink tape outside the base? Why not tuck it inside the base where it can't be seen? Odd choice. Great build and video, otherwise, though!
Lots of good ways to build it. Another good way is to install a jack into the side of the unit and plug the power supply into the jack instead of wires and heat shrink tape. Old woodworkers can learn a lot from electronics techs!
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Way too much electrical work.... can be simplified a lot.... Why cut out bottom base, just remove material and keep wood bottom enclosed.... Go Packers.... MS-EET