I just started watching your videos and I am impressed with the detail and self critique you apply to your own work as it provides insight and guidance to all of us would be followers.
It's a very nice project. Instead of glue, it might have been nice to use four long machine screws to hold the assembly together. (The bolts would screw into threaded inserts mounted into the top layer of wood.) With the CNC, the bolt holes should be perfectly aligned. This would allow for ease of repair/replacement of the LEDs and avoid the issue of glue squeeze-out. It would also allow you to add a diffusing lens of some sort, if you wanted. Or, you could change the color of the lights by changing the color of the diffusing lens from time to time.
I like the way you analyze every point of project...even the points they need to be improved. Despite that its on of the best and beautifull ideas for this project i have ever seen.
Always an easy way to diffuse the light is simply role up a piece of thin white paper or cellophane and have it wrap around the inside circle. By being off the light source, it will naturally diffuse the points of light and give a more even glow.
im glad you keep your craftsmanship in mind, but honestly they look great. no consumer would ever catch that. still good on ya for improving your design.
I agree with the other comments about using a diffusion film or a paper tube for more even lighting. Another option would be to increase the number of machine-cut acrylic surfaces that the light passes through. You could mill a circle through each acrylic plate. That way, the light would have to pass through 4 surfaces instead of 2. Twice the diffusion without more materials.
I often use a 2 flute 1/8 inch endmill 16k RPM, and 500 - 1000 mm/min. 80in/min (2032mm/min) seems very fast. I have been told that kerosene is the lubricant/coolant of choice but not used it yet. I often get crystal clear cuts even in pocket bases. Overall project looks good. I think the oak looks nice.
Great project as usual! Loved the informative and humorous voice over! Looking forward to seeing more of your stuff. Let’s meet up with Chad in San Francisco!!!
It's a bit old now, but I can help you with some ideas. Try to use high density LED strips, 3528 or even smaller chipsize, that can lead up to 120 LED/m, which means better coverage. For better opaque, I would recommend around 300 grit or even lower numbers.
I love Harvey Tools, but for cutting plastics you should look at Vortex's "O" flute end mills. They grind a deeper void to curl the plastic better and help this chip extraction. The 5412 is a direct substitute for the end mill you used in the video, but they also come in downcut and straight flute. I use double edge straight flute all day long on my kit CNC all day long with great results. Their endmills are a bit more expensive, but they will sharpen any end mill for pretty cheap so it all evens out over time.
You are an inspiration. Keep up the amazing videos. I'm a machinist, so I'm used to dealing with metal, but my dream is to start a business beginning with my 3d printers and router
Inside of screens you'll find sheets of plastic that are used to difuse light from the LED backlights. Those are perfect for these sort of lights, just wrap it around the inside and the light will come out balanced. Old laptop screens are great for this.
A great way to diffuse light would be to use a commercial grade etch effect sign vinyl that I fit to restaurant windows. A solvent adhesive will have no problem with heat dissipation and is designed to be perfectly clear for interior installation and will apply uniformly and perfectly to edges and wrap around corners or even curved edges with the aid of a hairdryer for example. Life is up to 10 years. You could stick with large stock of clear acrylic and even colour multiple versions or layers with translucent films designed for exactly this purpose on lightboxes. Products you should look at in the states are Oracal and Avery Dennison. Cost should be no more than about $10 per linear metre. Ben, BJUM
good choice on the harvey, they are pretty decent tools. try looking into niagra and duramill endmills. they are some of the best. you will do best with a niagra 3 flute on aluminum and hard woods.
Another awesome video. My Shapeoko arrived a couple of days ago and have been watching your channel religiously for the last few weeks in anticipation. Thanks for the great content. Also, check out the USS Midway museum when you're in San Diego!
Cool ambient lights. You were cracking me up with the #’s. As for BAMF. I went last year. I haven’t ruled it out. I have a place to stay usually so it’s not too expensive. Bobby Duke just told me he’s going last night so it’s getting more compelling.
Make a roll of white parchment paper, or tracing paper, one sheet only, place it inside the lamp in between the leds and the acrylic, it's an excellent difuser
SDFWA.org has a shop with almost 300 members. In that shop we have a community of digital tools enthusiasts who use our laser, CNC and 3D printer for woodworking projects. Seems a natural to me that you’d like to see the place. I’m certain a small group of members would enjoy meeting you and hearing your story as well. Let me know if you’d like to schedule a side trip while in San Diego. The Shop is near the split of the 5 and the 805. BTW, I too will be at BAMF.
Hi Travis, thanks for the suggestion. Definitely sounds like a good place to chat with some creative people. Currently planning on being in the San Diego area probably between 5/11 to 5/14. Let me know if there's a good time to drop in and I'll try to swing it!
Winston Moy If you shoot for 5/12 to come visit then I could schedule one of our Digital Tools SIG meetings for that morning. Having you tell your story or share some projects would inspire folk. Or, if you just prefer to tour the shop then we could do that instead. Let me know your preference.
For lighting, using a 1W or 3W LED inside instead of strips would work well for simplicity and diffusion purposes. You could mount the LED at the top of the dowel and have it shine down. Broadcom makes some that you can run off 3.6-4V. You can then use a small (quarter sized) buck converter to reduce the 5V down to what you want.
an easy way to diffuse the light could be as easy as roughing up the inside of the acrylic with some scotch brite or steel wool, you could also use a some of the plastic from a plastic binder rolled up on the inside. those are already fairly diffused. Hope it helps, and great video
I've seen Pier 9, though I'd be more than happy to find an excuse to go back. Crucible sounds cool, I'm gonna miss their open houses by a couple days but if they have an event the week before MakerFaire I'll be all over it. Thanks for the tip off.
To help with the light diffusion i think it would be best to polish the inside where the light source is then use 400 grit on the outside to get a smooth but frosted finish on the out side. Look into total internal reflection, smarter ever day made a video about how like reflects and used acrylic to demonstrate the property, might help get the results that you want.
You could make a one pass circular pocket on one side, then offset inwards another pocket on the opposite side. Leds wont be visible through those pockets. You could also just sand the edges of the acrylic with lower grit sandpaper. Edge lit signs diffuse more with the scratched up/milled areas.
I used a single light from the bottom, and placed a sheet of diffusion plastic (from a recycled LCD tv screen) around the inside of the inner cavity. I also painted the top of the inner cavity white to bounce the light back downward, thereby maximizing the light from the single source (which was a puck-style light from Menards intended to be used under cabinets). As for the acrylic, I taped off all but the outward-facing edge and sandblasted it for a frosted look (experiment on scraps first!), then knocked down the grain a tad with a heat gun. Overall it turned out really nice. I think next time I may try masking off a couple stripes on the acrylic before media blasting to give a unique look, and possibly angle the outer edge 15 degrees or so to cast more of the light downward onto my desk.
Very Cool Man! Looks great! I used a lower grit sandpaper to defuse my LEDS last time and that seemed to work okay. It looks absolutely amazing though!
You can add an arduino to control the light pattern. It will make it more cooler. I added a mic so the light can have some changes when I place it next to my speaker.
In all honesty, (parchment) paper would work just fine in your situation I think. 216 and other filters are so expensive because they are heat-resistant since a lot of film-lights are (and used to be) tungsten based. You do get a lot of different varieties of diffusion (i.e. White Diffusion, Frost, Colored Frost, ect).
All of LA basically lol. Currently planning to visit Pasadena to Torrance, eventually ending up in San Diego. But now that you mention it, there's a brewery 2 blocks from the Carbide 3D factory... Maybe I should petition them to host a tour followed by drinks afterwards... 🤔
Use parchment paper! I have just made a lamp, using led strips and used parchment paper, and I have been engraving mirrors and use parchment paper to defuse the backlights!
What if instead of glue you had rods in all four corners threaded into the top piece, through holes in all the layers, screwed on the underside of the bottom plate. Then can work on LEDs and swap out whenever
If you want some light source ideas, I recommend a browse through Big Clive's channel. In particular, check out his teardowns of eBay LED lights of all shapes and sizes. It might be cool to build a housing for one of those flame lamp modules. th-cam.com/users/bigclivedotcom Have a nice trip! Let us know if you drop by any maker space in the LA / OC area.
8mm frosted acrylic..or 10mm.. just buff the sides and torch so it will look pleasing.. anyway, thanks man.. this will be my next project.. i have plenty of frosted 8mm acrylic scraps, but i dont have a router so i think i will use mdf rather than wood..
For LED light diffusion I highly suggest going to TAP Plastics and testing your setup with different diffuse sheets. It's hard to know exactly what diffusion sheet will work best, but somewhere there is a sheet to solve your problem. For example.... www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_sheets_rolls/led_ligh_panel/598
Hi, Winston, I've been watching your series, great job .. I made a simple youtube revue once now I realize how much time it really takes. I don't have a CNC yeat for a week or so I'm trying to figure out what is most important in a CNC mill needed sometimes I skip to the idea if getting a laser instead ... I don't know yet but I'm going to go to maker fair and figure it out there. If I see you there ill buy u a coffee as a thanks for the great vids. ps, what are your thoughts on a laser 3d engraver anyway?
So, I think the idea of a "3D laser engraver" like what Glowforge markets itself as, is somewhat misleading. You can cut to different depths roughly, but you can't really make smooth bottomed pockets like you could with a milling machining. There are things a laser can do that a CNC can't, and vice versa. Need to pick the best tool based on what your project is.
www.engraversjournal.com/article.php/3007/images/Fig-7-big.jpg but your right with a laser you get a grain-like pattern that may look cheap and I really want to be able to cut shapes in 3/4 plywood and a CNC can do that easily and from what I have seen that would have to be a good and expensive 80w laser or an inexpensive 200 w. which would both cost around 4K and for 4k I can get a 3 foot decent CNC mill. i have been looking at Shapeoko xl, millrightcnc (faster and can use a 2.4 hp router is that really necessary?) , STEPCRAFT 840 CNC any thoughts? by the way have you ever Seen this thing?? carvewright ?? www.carvewright.com/cx/
Millright is okay, as is Stepcraft, but they're a little more premium priced. Stepcraft has a great accessory ecosystem though. And no, you probably don't need a 2.4 HP router. I'm perfectly happy with my 1.25 HP one. Carvewright is cool, but kind of a one trick pony. Good for making signs, but almost impossible to run smaller pieces through the machine. Are the machines that cost twice as much as a Shapeoko better for general purpose milling? Sometimes. But they definitely aren't 2X as good. You have to figure out your needs, how much you care about value, etc. Only a small fraction of hobbyists/woodworkers will grow out of a Shapeoko in my opinion, and it's mainly for size reasons.
Carvewright is cool but it's like having a robot dog instead of a real one It has no soul:) it's just a copy machine although it looks pretty capable, I want to learn CNC and I don't think its the right choice for most people in my boat. I like the Stepcraft its clean well designed but little overpriced for its hardware (its like buying a 60K Benz you will pay extra 45k for all the add-ons you get included in most other cars) its nice and the auto bit change is cool but I don't know how often does one need to change bits endmills when doing a project? i just dont know . Im leaning towards Shapeoko xl or xxl thoe i think the millwright isfaster and a better cnc because of its drives ext im leaning towards Shapeoko becouse even thoe most work I would like to do is detailes sighns and cutouts ext within 12x24 but I would like to do things with larger wood as well, for example, I want to be able to make assembly tables like this one th-cam.com/video/A1F3y41Tn9A/w-d-xo.html I wold like to make a bunch of workbenches reaady to assemble with drilled dog holes I could sell them to my coworkers to recopinsate some of the cost of the cnc atleast the cost of upgrading to a xl or xxl (im in construcrion) (that was also a reson why I was looking in to the laser) but cutting 3/4 ply with a laser I wold have to shell out 4k maybe 6k atleast to get something capable and I wold not be able to compinsate that cost by selling off some workbenches to my coworkers, allso I want to be able to do things like planing redwood slabs automatically because manually with a router is a pain you are covered in dust and wood chips for several hours and it gets labor intensive and annoying .I would love to have a 4x8 CNC but I figured I can make due with Shapeoko xl or XXL. by my understanding Shapeoko is slow but it can produce detailed work and I can make 2 x 8 workbenches with the shapeoko xl just by manually lineing up everything and moving the plywood down as it finishes (or am i missing something do you think that it would be too difficult in some sort of way I am not imagining yeat because I have no experience with cnc ?) if i have space is it better to get the XXL? Am I asking too much from shapeoko? One trick pony is not always the best choice. Is it better to buy a faster Millright for the smaller work and Maslowcnc for larger plywood and sheet work? is maslowcnc capable of cutting accurately I have been looking at it for a while now I remember it was unable to cut accurately everything was distorted and imprecise at least by 1/4 inch or often more it also had some weird things when cutting it would cut as if a 14m lens GoPro effect, you have mentioned your friend got one? does the Maslow work now? is it working for your friend? maann im bombarding you with questions sorry for the overload you are now probably thinking why did I ever respond to this guy :) ... But I would appreciate your input I have no one else to ask about cnc... and its en expencive endeavor that i cant risk to get wrong.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
I love Oak, there’s a reason it’s a classic.
I just started watching your videos and I am impressed with the detail and self critique you apply to your own work as it provides insight and guidance to all of us would be followers.
It's a very nice project. Instead of glue, it might have been nice to use four long machine screws to hold the assembly together. (The bolts would screw into threaded inserts mounted into the top layer of wood.) With the CNC, the bolt holes should be perfectly aligned. This would allow for ease of repair/replacement of the LEDs and avoid the issue of glue squeeze-out. It would also allow you to add a diffusing lens of some sort, if you wanted. Or, you could change the color of the lights by changing the color of the diffusing lens from time to time.
I like the way you analyze every point of project...even the points they need to be improved. Despite that its on of the best and beautifull ideas for this project i have ever seen.
Always an easy way to diffuse the light is simply role up a piece of thin white paper or cellophane and have it wrap around the inside circle. By being off the light source, it will naturally diffuse the points of light and give a more even glow.
Parchment paper would be perfect!
I've had decent results with tracing paper and spray-can frosted glass coating. For my recent project I ultimately went with a milky diffused acrylic.
I've tried this and it works great. However, if the lights heater they start to get dark spots on them.
Great project Winston, congratulations. You have improved, your projects go on more reliable and easy.
im glad you keep your craftsmanship in mind, but honestly they look great. no consumer would ever catch that. still good on ya for improving your design.
I agree with the other comments about using a diffusion film or a paper tube for more even lighting. Another option would be to increase the number of machine-cut acrylic surfaces that the light passes through. You could mill a circle through each acrylic plate. That way, the light would have to pass through 4 surfaces instead of 2. Twice the diffusion without more materials.
I often use a 2 flute 1/8 inch endmill 16k RPM, and 500 - 1000 mm/min. 80in/min (2032mm/min) seems very fast. I have been told that kerosene is the lubricant/coolant of choice but not used it yet. I often get crystal clear cuts even in pocket bases. Overall project looks good. I think the oak looks nice.
Great project as usual! Loved the informative and humorous voice over! Looking forward to seeing more of your stuff.
Let’s meet up with Chad in San Francisco!!!
It's a bit old now, but I can help you with some ideas. Try to use high density LED strips, 3528 or even smaller chipsize, that can lead up to 120 LED/m, which means better coverage.
For better opaque, I would recommend around 300 grit or even lower numbers.
I love Harvey Tools, but for cutting plastics you should look at Vortex's "O" flute end mills. They grind a deeper void to curl the plastic better and help this chip extraction. The 5412 is a direct substitute for the end mill you used in the video, but they also come in downcut and straight flute. I use double edge straight flute all day long on my kit CNC all day long with great results. Their endmills are a bit more expensive, but they will sharpen any end mill for pretty cheap so it all evens out over time.
You are an inspiration. Keep up the amazing videos. I'm a machinist, so I'm used to dealing with metal, but my dream is to start a business beginning with my 3d printers and router
As always, nicely don Winston.
Inside of screens you'll find sheets of plastic that are used to difuse light from the LED backlights. Those are perfect for these sort of lights, just wrap it around the inside and the light will come out balanced.
Old laptop screens are great for this.
A great way to diffuse light would be to use a commercial grade etch effect sign vinyl that I fit to restaurant windows. A solvent adhesive will have no problem with heat dissipation and is designed to be perfectly clear for interior installation and will apply uniformly and perfectly to edges and wrap around corners or even curved edges with the aid of a hairdryer for example. Life is up to 10 years. You could stick with large stock of clear acrylic and even colour multiple versions or layers with translucent films designed for exactly this purpose on lightboxes. Products you should look at in the states are Oracal and Avery Dennison. Cost should be no more than about $10 per linear metre. Ben, BJUM
good choice on the harvey, they are pretty decent tools. try looking into niagra and duramill endmills. they are some of the best. you will do best with a niagra 3 flute on aluminum and hard woods.
I definitely want to make one!!!! Thanks for sharing!
Another awesome video. My Shapeoko arrived a couple of days ago and have been watching your channel religiously for the last few weeks in anticipation. Thanks for the great content. Also, check out the USS Midway museum when you're in San Diego!
Cool ambient lights. You were cracking me up with the #’s. As for BAMF. I went last year. I haven’t ruled it out. I have a place to stay usually so it’s not too expensive. Bobby Duke just told me he’s going last night so it’s getting more compelling.
ManCraftingTM Okay Chad, I just booked my hotel in San Mateo... is that compelling enough? Let’s do this!
Works by Solo what was you airline ticket? I’m seeing about $500.
We should totally get a maker meet-up going. Hit up Bob and Evan & Katelyn too!
Great idea! Get the word out early! Let’s do it!
Bobby Duke AND Winson are coming? Can't wait to meet both of you!
Make a roll of white parchment paper, or tracing paper, one sheet only, place it inside the lamp in between the leds and the acrylic, it's an excellent difuser
Wow that was quick. thank you very much from Canada
SDFWA.org has a shop with almost 300 members. In that shop we have a community of digital tools enthusiasts who use our laser, CNC and 3D printer for woodworking projects. Seems a natural to me that you’d like to see the place. I’m certain a small group of members would enjoy meeting you and hearing your story as well. Let me know if you’d like to schedule a side trip while in San Diego. The Shop is near the split of the 5 and the 805. BTW, I too will be at BAMF.
Hi Travis, thanks for the suggestion. Definitely sounds like a good place to chat with some creative people. Currently planning on being in the San Diego area probably between 5/11 to 5/14. Let me know if there's a good time to drop in and I'll try to swing it!
Winston Moy If you shoot for 5/12 to come visit then I could schedule one of our Digital Tools SIG meetings for that morning. Having you tell your story or share some projects would inspire folk. Or, if you just prefer to tour the shop then we could do that instead. Let me know your preference.
I mean... both sound good to me. Shoot me an email at winstonmakes@gmail.com and let's discuss more.
For lighting, using a 1W or 3W LED inside instead of strips would work well for simplicity and diffusion purposes. You could mount the LED at the top of the dowel and have it shine down. Broadcom makes some that you can run off 3.6-4V. You can then use a small (quarter sized) buck converter to reduce the 5V down to what you want.
Roll up an appropriately sized sheet of vellum and drop it in the cavity, see if it makes an improvement, then glue it in place if it does.
Love your vids. Nice amount of detail, well presented and time efficient. Keep up the good work!
an easy way to diffuse the light could be as easy as roughing up the inside of the acrylic with some scotch brite or steel wool, you could also use a some of the plastic from a plastic binder rolled up on the inside. those are already fairly diffused. Hope it helps, and great video
Two things to check out in the bay area, The Crucible in Oakland, and if you can, go see about getting a tour of pier 9!
I've seen Pier 9, though I'd be more than happy to find an excuse to go back. Crucible sounds cool, I'm gonna miss their open houses by a couple days but if they have an event the week before MakerFaire I'll be all over it. Thanks for the tip off.
You can usually just walk into the crucible and ask for a tour, they are super friendly over there!
Thanks for this video. I have been looking for a new project and this would be great to try.
To help with the light diffusion i think it would be best to polish the inside where the light source is then use 400 grit on the outside to get a smooth but frosted finish on the out side. Look into total internal reflection, smarter ever day made a video about how like reflects and used acrylic to demonstrate the property, might help get the results that you want.
This turned out great! I want to do this now! :)
hey Winston, nice video as always
You could make a one pass circular pocket on one side, then offset inwards another pocket on the opposite side. Leds wont be visible through those pockets. You could also just sand the edges of the acrylic with lower grit sandpaper. Edge lit signs diffuse more with the scratched up/milled areas.
I used a single light from the bottom, and placed a sheet of diffusion plastic (from a recycled LCD tv screen) around the inside of the inner cavity. I also painted the top of the inner cavity white to bounce the light back downward, thereby maximizing the light from the single source (which was a puck-style light from Menards intended to be used under cabinets). As for the acrylic, I taped off all but the outward-facing edge and sandblasted it for a frosted look (experiment on scraps first!), then knocked down the grain a tad with a heat gun. Overall it turned out really nice. I think next time I may try masking off a couple stripes on the acrylic before media blasting to give a unique look, and possibly angle the outer edge 15 degrees or so to cast more of the light downward onto my desk.
Loved this project!
Very Cool Man! Looks great! I used a lower grit sandpaper to defuse my LEDS last time and that seemed to work okay. It looks absolutely amazing though!
Thanks man! I have some ideas for extra diffusion for the next go around, should look even cooler!
120 grit paper would have frosted/textured them nicely and quickly, 1000 grit is almost too fine.
Looks awesome!
Wax paper makes a good diffuser. Wanna share those fusion 360 files? These would make nice presents.
You can add an arduino to control the light pattern. It will make it more cooler. I added a mic so the light can have some changes when I place it next to my speaker.
i'm using the sandblaster for acrylic materials to diffuse light
Such a great channel! Thanks for sharing :)
Nice job!
Buy some Lee filters "216" in the inside. Film industry standard! You can get it at a lot of larger camera stores ect.
Thanks for the tip off, I was looking for a solution that would be better than stealing the diffuser from a donor LED TV.
In all honesty, (parchment) paper would work just fine in your situation I think. 216 and other filters are so expensive because they are heat-resistant since a lot of film-lights are (and used to be) tungsten based.
You do get a lot of different varieties of diffusion (i.e. White Diffusion, Frost, Colored Frost, ect).
It looks great, you're being nitty gritty :)
If you have an old computer monitor, you can use the diffusers from that.
Nice job.
Can you please drop the link for the carving machine. Thanks
A good sanding with wetdry 600 and a buffing with the blue compound will make it look like glass, that's how I do it.
What kind of bit would you recommend for acrylic? Actually, which one would you NOT recommend?
If you're down in LA, it'd be really cool if you had a meet-up at a local brewery or something. What part of LA are you visiting?
All of LA basically lol. Currently planning to visit Pasadena to Torrance, eventually ending up in San Diego. But now that you mention it, there's a brewery 2 blocks from the Carbide 3D factory... Maybe I should petition them to host a tour followed by drinks afterwards... 🤔
Very nice project. Come to Los Angeles and we can eat tacos and drink beers :)
You make a tempting proposition there...
Use parchment paper! I have just made a lamp, using led strips and used parchment paper, and I have been engraving mirrors and use parchment paper to defuse the backlights!
I love this. How much for the wood and a rylic pcs?
This was the best.
The "glue moat" (tm) is a great idea.
What if instead of glue you had rods in all four corners threaded into the top piece, through holes in all the layers, screwed on the underside of the bottom plate. Then can work on LEDs and swap out whenever
Parabéns, belo projeto!!!
Haha! "I Love Lamp". I see what you did there...
If you want some light source ideas, I recommend a browse through Big Clive's channel. In particular, check out his teardowns of eBay LED lights of all shapes and sizes. It might be cool to build a housing for one of those flame lamp modules. th-cam.com/users/bigclivedotcom
Have a nice trip! Let us know if you drop by any maker space in the LA / OC area.
Hi Winston, great video as always. could you tell me where you got parts hold-down on your work table they look neat! thanks.
Clamps shown are these guys: www.suckitdustboot.com/oops-clamps
could also knot the wire internally to prevent pullout
Great video, will look forward to build a twisted shape version in the future. If someone has, please share :)
Could you share the Fusion360 files for this project?
Despite the "flaws" that is a great looking pair of lights.
you can use frosted acrylic
Only if the face of the acrylic is shown. The cut edges won't be frosted.
8mm frosted acrylic..or 10mm.. just buff the sides and torch so it will look pleasing..
anyway, thanks man.. this will be my next project.. i have plenty of frosted 8mm acrylic scraps, but i dont have a router so i think i will use mdf rather than wood..
For LED light diffusion I highly suggest going to TAP Plastics and testing your setup with different diffuse sheets. It's hard to know exactly what diffusion sheet will work best, but somewhere there is a sheet to solve your problem. For example.... www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_sheets_rolls/led_ligh_panel/598
Hi, Winston, I've been watching your series, great job .. I made a simple youtube revue once now I realize how much time it really takes. I don't have a CNC yeat for a week or so I'm trying to figure out what is most important in a CNC mill needed sometimes I skip to the idea if getting a laser instead ... I don't know yet but I'm going to go to maker fair and figure it out there. If I see you there ill buy u a coffee as a thanks for the great vids. ps, what are your thoughts on a laser 3d engraver anyway?
So, I think the idea of a "3D laser engraver" like what Glowforge markets itself as, is somewhat misleading. You can cut to different depths roughly, but you can't really make smooth bottomed pockets like you could with a milling machining. There are things a laser can do that a CNC can't, and vice versa. Need to pick the best tool based on what your project is.
twistedsifter.com/2013/04/3d-laser-cut-paper-art-by-eric-standley/
after seing things like this the laser again goes back on to my list.
www.engraversjournal.com/article.php/3007/images/Fig-7-big.jpg
but your right with a laser you get a grain-like pattern that may look cheap and I really want to be able to cut shapes in 3/4 plywood and a CNC can do that easily and from what I have seen that would have to be a good and expensive 80w laser or an inexpensive 200 w. which would both cost around 4K and for 4k I can get a 3 foot decent CNC mill.
i have been looking at Shapeoko xl, millrightcnc (faster and can use a 2.4 hp router is that really necessary?) , STEPCRAFT 840 CNC any thoughts? by the way have you ever Seen this thing?? carvewright ??
www.carvewright.com/cx/
Millright is okay, as is Stepcraft, but they're a little more premium priced. Stepcraft has a great accessory ecosystem though. And no, you probably don't need a 2.4 HP router. I'm perfectly happy with my 1.25 HP one.
Carvewright is cool, but kind of a one trick pony. Good for making signs, but almost impossible to run smaller pieces through the machine.
Are the machines that cost twice as much as a Shapeoko better for general purpose milling? Sometimes. But they definitely aren't 2X as good. You have to figure out your needs, how much you care about value, etc. Only a small fraction of hobbyists/woodworkers will grow out of a Shapeoko in my opinion, and it's mainly for size reasons.
Carvewright is cool but it's like having a robot dog instead of a real one It has no soul:) it's just a copy machine although it looks pretty capable, I want to learn CNC and I don't think its the right choice for most people in my boat. I like the Stepcraft its clean well designed but little overpriced for its hardware (its like buying a 60K Benz you will pay extra 45k for all the add-ons you get included in most other cars) its nice and the auto bit change is cool but I don't know how often does one need to change bits endmills when doing a project? i just dont know . Im leaning towards Shapeoko xl or xxl thoe i think the millwright isfaster and a better cnc because of its drives ext im leaning towards Shapeoko becouse even thoe most work I would like to do is detailes sighns and cutouts ext within 12x24 but I would like to do things with larger wood as well, for example, I want to be able to make assembly tables like this one th-cam.com/video/A1F3y41Tn9A/w-d-xo.html I wold like to make a bunch of workbenches reaady to assemble with drilled dog holes I could sell them to my coworkers to recopinsate some of the cost of the cnc atleast the cost of upgrading to a xl or xxl (im in construcrion) (that was also a reson why I was looking in to the laser) but cutting 3/4 ply with a laser I wold have to shell out 4k maybe 6k atleast to get something capable and I wold not be able to compinsate that cost by selling off some workbenches to my coworkers, allso I want to be able to do things like planing redwood slabs automatically because manually with a router is a pain you are covered in dust and wood chips for several hours and it gets labor intensive and annoying .I would love to have a 4x8 CNC but I figured I can make due with Shapeoko xl or XXL. by my understanding Shapeoko is slow but it can produce detailed work and I can make 2 x 8 workbenches with the shapeoko xl just by manually lineing up everything and moving the plywood down as it finishes (or am i missing something do you think that it would be too difficult in some sort of way I am not imagining yeat because I have no experience with cnc ?) if i have space is it better to get the XXL? Am I asking too much from shapeoko? One trick pony is not always the best choice. Is it better to buy a faster Millright for the smaller work and Maslowcnc for larger plywood and sheet work? is maslowcnc capable of cutting accurately I have been looking at it for a while now I remember it was unable to cut accurately everything was distorted and imprecise at least by 1/4 inch or often more it also had some weird things when cutting it would cut as if a 14m lens GoPro effect, you have mentioned your friend got one? does the Maslow work now? is it working for your friend? maann im bombarding you with questions sorry for the overload you are now probably thinking why did I ever respond to this guy :) ... But I would appreciate your input I have no one else to ask about cnc... and its en expencive endeavor that i cant risk to get wrong.
Love to grab a drink. But (1) I'm in Singapore (2) Coronavirus.
Are you the carbide 3d guy? Lol
My brain decided that the bowl you were holding in 1:44 contained wood chips of some description and that you were eating them
it is hard to tell for your project, but in close room LEDs can overheat with decreasing their lifetime to several month
If u frost the acrylic more it'll defuse the light better
Can I buy these from you?
please, share the files!
witch software you are using for designing
Fusion 360
sand those acrylic squares dude, then you will only see the light not the led. i had to learn that myself.
"I love lamp v4" HA!
Сколько стоит такая лампа?
why so complicated ?? asia style DNA ???
Great Video, but please stop those #'s.
Use... less... glue ; )
I think the "done to death" version looks much better
"I love Lamp" HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!