Have the same with my 101 FC,, not only loose but shot, never thought of taking out the rubber and the rattle would not have been noticed. I slackened the bolts and slipped in a length of thin pipe on the outside edge which pushed in the top. Helped for a few years but finally bought new door tops at the LRO show this month. Cheers
I've found on my series that flipping the seal over, so that the little lip (which usually hangs down slightly over the galv trim) pushes the door top up from the outside, achieves the same result.
Thank you Mike, I’m having the same issues with my original steel series 2 door tops, flopping about. I look forward to seeing how you get on with the tape you mention. Best wishes for the start of winter. Our first snow is due this week (-6) 😭
These door tops and indeed the door bottoms are not the same as series - it seems the pop rivets are the culprit and the seal makes a channel for the heads to sit in On this NAS job, I noticed the bottom of the door top was flat and also the rivets holding the top cap on the door were recessed, this a flat seal can be used so therefore if the rivets can be recessed on series both top and bottom then this would allow more positive contact and therefore less rock Unfortunately I have no series tops or doors to experiment with Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd. Good morning Mike, and thanks for the prompt and helpful insight, as always much appreciated. Armed with this information I will see how I get on, with substitute closed foam under the top (perhaps two thin strips either side of the rivets). I had RM door tops to fit, but I wanted to see how I got on with the original series door tops. Not wanting to overtorque the fasteners, they do tend to move in and out a bit, and not seal. Cheers, Ian
Totally off subject, i fixed my lack of power (96 D1 300tdi, hybrid turbo, allisport intercooler) after replacing EVERYTHING and even dialing in the injector pump to 1.6mm, i said stuff it and advanced the pump on slackened pulley by 1/4 slot length and voila! Power and lower egt's! Can just squeeze in a 6mm drill bit, that's the amount of advance it needed. Sorry i was too lazy to find your relevant video to leave this post on.
Would not a much thinner flat band (2cm or so wide) running the length of the door work best? It wouldn’t raise the window insert any so that it would clear the top, it would preserve the correct angle and it would prevent rubbing damage to the painted surfaces. I’m wondering if a thicker seal would raise the window insert enough to foul on the roof when closing
Am I wrong (it's been known. .) but there are 2 different door top seals, I got series ones by mistake for my ex military 110 and they are almost a flat strip with no raised bead on the inside edge, they also lack the drain cut outs of the military ones. Would you know what thread the door top studs are for those nice tube nuts? Keep up the great work Mike, all the best from a grey Liverpool.
On the steel door tops the seal is important as there are 3 pop rivets that are on the bottom of the door top - the seal allows these to be 'absorbed' and therefore not rock about On these in the video they was nothing on the bottom, so you could put a flat seal on - not sure on the military style tops I am not 100% of the thread but I have an idea there were metric and UNF fitted depending on the style
Mike is that a Rocky Mountain seal as has no drainage in the centre like the Land Rover one? The series and early military seal was a flat job part number mtc6224, I replaced mine for the later one which drains better rrc7575. The genuine ones are far softer rubber so compress better to give the necessary angle, rather like the genuine door seals being a softer rubber and better.
The NAS door bottom tops to not have pop rivets protruding , and yes these are Rocky Mountain so both surfaces are parallel The regular steel door tops have pop rivets so a seal is needed to stop them touching the top of the door bottom and then rocking
Mike! I just became a monthly subscriber on your website, I have the land rover genuine seals, I wonder if you'd have any knowledge about the foam bumpers that go in between the studs and the drains. My tithonus original seals had them on but if you buy new ones they don't have anything. now, Rover's North sells the little foam bumpers but they don't look to be correct for the newer style door seals. Just boggling trying to stop leaks from the window top.
Not sure about that - the seals were pre cut and also the cross section with the 'balloon' seals on the sides act like 'springs' and cannot be compressed enough to make the top solid without stripping the threads out of the door top
This guy is the owner of the Sankey trailer (remember that from last year) - his plan was to get the 90 here and have me fix a few jobs then tow trailer back - only as you saw, the rear crossmember is shot so waiting for a new rear section to come
Have the same with my 101 FC,, not only loose but shot, never thought of taking out the rubber and the rattle would not have been noticed. I slackened the bolts and slipped in a length of thin pipe on the outside edge which pushed in the top. Helped for a few years but finally bought new door tops at the LRO show this month. Cheers
Ridiculously simple fixes often yield the most satisfying results! Nice work! The owner will be very pleased👍👍
Especially since it’ll not only stop the draughts and noise, but will look so much better.
I've found on my series that flipping the seal over, so that the little lip (which usually hangs down slightly over the galv trim) pushes the door top up from the outside, achieves the same result.
Thanks heaps for this Mike! Going to do this fix on my ex army perentie! Would love to see you get your hands on one!
Just make sure there are no protruding pop rivets
Hi Mike I like your work you are brilliant
Thank you Mike, I’m having the same issues with my original steel series 2 door tops, flopping about. I look forward to seeing how you get on with the tape you mention.
Best wishes for the start of winter. Our first snow is due this week (-6) 😭
These door tops and indeed the door bottoms are not the same as series - it seems the pop rivets are the culprit and the seal makes a channel for the heads to sit in
On this NAS job, I noticed the bottom of the door top was flat and also the rivets holding the top cap on the door were recessed, this a flat seal can be used
so therefore if the rivets can be recessed on series both top and bottom then this would allow more positive contact and therefore less rock
Unfortunately I have no series tops or doors to experiment with
Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd. Good morning Mike, and thanks for the prompt and helpful insight, as always much appreciated. Armed with this information I will see how I get on, with substitute closed foam under the top (perhaps two thin strips either side of the rivets). I had RM door tops to fit, but I wanted to see how I got on with the original series door tops. Not wanting to overtorque the fasteners, they do tend to move in and out a bit, and not seal. Cheers, Ian
Totally off subject, i fixed my lack of power (96 D1 300tdi, hybrid turbo, allisport intercooler) after replacing EVERYTHING and even dialing in the injector pump to 1.6mm, i said stuff it and advanced the pump on slackened pulley by 1/4 slot length and voila! Power and lower egt's! Can just squeeze in a 6mm drill bit, that's the amount of advance it needed. Sorry i was too lazy to find your relevant video to leave this post on.
7:07 - Another classic! Replicating door rattles -- one at a time!
It's a gift...
'Finessing Land Rovers.....one door at a time'.
Would not a much thinner flat band (2cm or so wide) running the length of the door work best?
It wouldn’t raise the window insert any so that it would clear the top, it would preserve the correct angle and it would prevent rubbing damage to the painted surfaces.
I’m wondering if a thicker seal would raise the window insert enough to foul on the roof when closing
Thin closed cell foam strip will work just as well
I forgot to say that I really enjoy watching your videos!!
You're welcome!
Am I wrong (it's been known. .) but there are 2 different door top seals, I got series ones by mistake for my ex military 110 and they are almost a flat strip with no raised bead on the inside edge, they also lack the drain cut outs of the military ones. Would you know what thread the door top studs are for those nice tube nuts? Keep up the great work Mike, all the best from a grey Liverpool.
On the steel door tops the seal is important as there are 3 pop rivets that are on the bottom of the door top - the seal allows these to be 'absorbed' and therefore not rock about
On these in the video they was nothing on the bottom, so you could put a flat seal on - not sure on the military style tops
I am not 100% of the thread but I have an idea there were metric and UNF fitted depending on the style
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike.
Mike is that a Rocky Mountain seal as has no drainage in the centre like the Land Rover one? The series and early military seal was a flat job part number mtc6224, I replaced mine for the later one which drains better rrc7575. The genuine ones are far softer rubber so compress better to give the necessary angle, rather like the genuine door seals being a softer rubber and better.
The NAS door bottom tops to not have pop rivets protruding , and yes these are Rocky Mountain so both surfaces are parallel
The regular steel door tops have pop rivets so a seal is needed to stop them touching the top of the door bottom and then rocking
Mike! I just became a monthly subscriber on your website, I have the land rover genuine seals, I wonder if you'd have any knowledge about the foam bumpers that go in between the studs and the drains. My tithonus original seals had them on but if you buy new ones they don't have anything. now, Rover's North sells the little foam bumpers but they don't look to be correct for the newer style door seals. Just boggling trying to stop leaks from the window top.
These NAS windows were different - can you send pics to britrest@britrest.com
I bet the seals were switched drivers side to passenger side!
Not sure about that - the seals were pre cut and also the cross section with the 'balloon' seals on the sides act like 'springs' and cannot be compressed enough to make the top solid without stripping the threads out of the door top
Is it going back to Florida, or was it brought up permanently?
Back to Florida
Wow! That’s a big effort to get it to you for repair all the way from there!
This guy is the owner of the Sankey trailer (remember that from last year) - his plan was to get the 90 here and have me fix a few jobs then tow trailer back - only as you saw, the rear crossmember is shot so waiting for a new rear section to come
@@BritannicaRestorations No-one in Florida can repair Defenders? Wow!
It looks like the seal was on upside down.
Nope