With your tape measure the play in the end is to account for the thickness of the metal tab. When you push you are on the outside edge of the tab so the hook moves down the tape to compensate. When you pull you are on the inside edge so the hook pulls out the thickness of the tab.
Those setup blocks look so much easier to set up. Will look at getting some for the combination plane! The shavings from the rebate look unreal. You also just solved for me why I'm destroying the nickers on the combination plane. Looks like I'm extending them too far beyond the plane blade.
An issue I’ve found and something you did not do or I missed it was setting the fence and depth stops with the blade protrusion as a reference. If you’re taking a shallow cut no problem, but as you started taking deeper cuts your blade is going to throw the depth off. Yes a small amount, but enough that other settings after will need to be adjusted. Example, I cut a rabbet for a inset door panel where I needed exactly 7/16 depth so that the panel fit. If I measured from the base of the plane without taking the blade protrusion into account that would have been too deep which then throws the panel out or I would have other adjustments I’d have to do. Yes very picky but sometimes best practice. So I use an accurate 6 inch rule (Lee Valley of course) and set it with the tip of the blade. Takes an extra second but is extremely accurate. I also will use a marking gauge to mark out my pieces and set the plane on that mark with the side blade protrusion as well. Makes setting the fence really easy. I’ve also seen several people recommend to remove the front knob completely to avoid holding it. Notably Chris Schwarz. I don’t but it is something others have suggested. As always a great video. Yup buy the plane ASAP. love mine.
This is a great note and deff something I didn't think about! It is a small amount (unless ur taking a super heavy cut) but it 100% matters! Thank you for sharing!!! Also a great note about the knob! This plane is deff on my wish list! lol
@Bat Cave Creations Exactley! Though It does require flushing the blade with the side. The reference has to change from the fence to the side to make it work.
We all now know this Veritas Model makes a terrific Spill Plane as well as a rabbet plane. As some of you know, a Spill Plane is a traditional way of starting candle and other flames in Olde Tymey days. The shavings curl into a cigar shape…..just as the Veritas does…
For depth stop and fence position setup, another tool to use is digital caliper that can switch to fraction. Adjust the jaws to the dimension you want, use the offset behind jaws for setup.
Thank you for doing these reviews and informative how to's with all the tools you cover. Will you be doing any reviews and in-depth use of Stanley 45 and 55. I ask this because there are so few who go into the depths of how to use them. This has resulted in too many saying they are to complex to set up, too hard to use and/or old school. There are too many of the 45's and 55's going to waste collecting dust and rust, and eventually being thrown in the bin by the great grandkids.
Thank you! I am going to try and get my hands on a Stanley 45 (55 may be a tough one to get someone to let me borrow lol). I do have the Veritas Combination Plane (borrowed) so I will be doing a video about that this month!
Apologies, a bit off topic but I vaguely remember a video with future upcoming videos on building a napkin holder. What this your channel? If so, what happened? I was really hoping I would get to see all the hand tools you review in action. Seeing the hand tools in action could be very beneficial for beginners like myself.
Hey! It was this channel. I liked the first 2 videos then i didn't like how I was teaching the rest. I plan to redo the video and give better instruction. I'm sorry!
@@BatCaveCreations, no need for apologies. When you feel you can deliver the best content for your viewers, I will be patiently waiting. Keep up the good work.
I think the LH and RH versions for one person are likely overkill depending on what other tools are in your kit. Once the rabbet is established if one wants a clean base free of tear out can get close the to line with rabbet plane and clean up with either a should plane or router plane going with the grain. Just my own two cents though.
Lol ur good, I get the question 100%. I build projects, just haven't been able too in well... a while now. I will start incorporating builds into the channel, I'm hoping by next month. Tools keep falling into my lap to review. Usually borrowed so I gotta do those videos then send them back before I can focus on a build. Deff a valid question, so no worries here!
Rebates with the grain. Dados across the grain. The correct word is rebate; not rabat. As the word originated in English (perhaps some German, Nordic, French too) it is correct. Check out the original shoulder, rebate infill ‘planes’. These Veritas, lie Nielsen are too expensive compared to the aforementioned. Remember, you can chop/cut rebates with chisels along with a mallet. But, use a marking gauge to enable accurate sizes. Take care.
Skew plane's are a pain. I have a few of them but rarely use them. They only perform well on a very few types of timber and grain orientation. The trouble is that when they come under load the irons tend to twist and the edge dulls quickly. To avoid that the iron needs to be clamped down very securely but that tends to distort the body out of co planar. The only skews that actually work well are the japanese ones. The iron's are much better supported and block is only open a small amount. The sales pitch is that skews dont choke up like a square shoulder plane. Most of the time though they just dont work very well full stop. People think skew reduces tear out. Nope. Quite the opposite. People think skew reduces resistance. Most of the time it increases it. Its really an end grain trimming tool, thats all. Thats fine if your shooting mitres all day for picture frame's or the like but a regular low angle will do that just as well if not better. Save your money, its a gimmick toy really.
tape measure? there must be some carpenter in you, a tape measure is for building houses not small boxes! i use the veritas layout blocks, they work well for what you are doing as well as the setup blocks.
Thanks Jamie! Man, I’m so antsy to get mine. Ordered mid May and expecting by the end of august 🥲 I use rabbets on my dovetails and I’m primarily a box maker, so this is going to be huge for me Keep making the vids! Doing great man
With your tape measure the play in the end is to account for the thickness of the metal tab. When you push you are on the outside edge of the tab so the hook moves down the tape to compensate. When you pull you are on the inside edge so the hook pulls out the thickness of the tab.
Those setup blocks look so much easier to set up. Will look at getting some for the combination plane! The shavings from the rebate look unreal. You also just solved for me why I'm destroying the nickers on the combination plane. Looks like I'm extending them too far beyond the plane blade.
Thank you for adding! I pinned that comment.
And happy to help! I learned too lol
I didn't even think of adjusting the scoring blade after moving the blade out so thanks again!
An issue I’ve found and something you did not do or I missed it was setting the fence and depth stops with the blade protrusion as a reference. If you’re taking a shallow cut no problem, but as you started taking deeper cuts your blade is going to throw the depth off. Yes a small amount, but enough that other settings after will need to be adjusted. Example, I cut a rabbet for a inset door panel where I needed exactly 7/16 depth so that the panel fit. If I measured from the base of the plane without taking the blade protrusion into account that would have been too deep which then throws the panel out or I would have other adjustments I’d have to do. Yes very picky but sometimes best practice. So I use an accurate 6 inch rule (Lee Valley of course) and set it with the tip of the blade. Takes an extra second but is extremely accurate. I also will use a marking gauge to mark out my pieces and set the plane on that mark with the side blade protrusion as well. Makes setting the fence really easy.
I’ve also seen several people recommend to remove the front knob completely to avoid holding it. Notably Chris Schwarz. I don’t but it is something others have suggested.
As always a great video. Yup buy the plane ASAP. love mine.
This is a great note and deff something I didn't think about! It is a small amount (unless ur taking a super heavy cut) but it 100% matters! Thank you for sharing!!!
Also a great note about the knob!
This plane is deff on my wish list! lol
Love my skew rabbet. Been using it alot to clean up large tenon cheaks because I can get it right up to the shoulder.
Yes!!! I through about that too it could work as a wide shoulder plane!
@Bat Cave Creations Exactley! Though It does require flushing the blade with the side. The reference has to change from the fence to the side to make it work.
That's an easy change tho! I love it!
Immensely helpful! I’ve been struggling with this plane.
Thank you! I'm glad it helped!
Excellent video!
Thank you!!
We all now know this Veritas Model makes a terrific Spill Plane as well as a rabbet plane. As some of you know, a Spill Plane is a traditional way of starting candle and other flames in Olde Tymey days. The shavings curl into a cigar shape…..just as the Veritas does…
YES! its funny I almost bid on a Spill Plane this weekend but then I used this and said..... no ill wait till I get one of these hahah
Mine came in Saturday. I think it will be a big time saver. I hate changing dato blades in and out.
Haha yes!!!! It's nice to have a plane that's basically always set and ready!
For depth stop and fence position setup, another tool to use is digital caliper that can switch to fraction. Adjust the jaws to the dimension you want, use the offset behind jaws for setup.
Yes!! Thank you! I never used that method, only because my calipers suck lol
I use my sliding square but the tape measure is correct in both push and pull, that’s why it moves…
Dang, that works great! Will the blade fit into the MK II? Really good video, Jamie. Love to see the planes in action. Comprehensive!
Thank you! Yes it will with the skew registration jig attachment
Thank you for doing these reviews and informative how to's with all the tools you cover. Will you be doing any reviews and in-depth use of Stanley 45 and 55. I ask this because there are so few who go into the depths of how to use them. This has resulted in too many saying they are to complex to set up, too hard to use and/or old school. There are too many of the 45's and 55's going to waste collecting dust and rust, and eventually being thrown in the bin by the great grandkids.
Thank you! I am going to try and get my hands on a Stanley 45 (55 may be a tough one to get someone to let me borrow lol). I do have the Veritas Combination Plane (borrowed) so I will be doing a video about that this month!
Apologies, a bit off topic but I vaguely remember a video with future upcoming videos on building a napkin holder. What this your channel? If so, what happened? I was really hoping I would get to see all the hand tools you review in action. Seeing the hand tools in action could be very beneficial for beginners like myself.
Hey! It was this channel. I liked the first 2 videos then i didn't like how I was teaching the rest. I plan to redo the video and give better instruction. I'm sorry!
@@BatCaveCreations, no need for apologies. When you feel you can deliver the best content for your viewers, I will be patiently waiting. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!! I appreciate that!
This is like moving fillister plane. The problem with this plane is that it works only in one direction, you can't turn it around to follow the grain.
Very true! They do sell it in left and right handed but that means you gotta buy 2 :(
I think the LH and RH versions for one person are likely overkill depending on what other tools are in your kit. Once the rabbet is established if one wants a clean base free of tear out can get close the to line with rabbet plane and clean up with either a should plane or router plane going with the grain. Just my own two cents though.
ooooh i love this idea too! establish it and switch to something else! Thank you!!!
Why would someone want the right and left hand versions of this plane?
Purely for different grain directions
if you are rabbetting all 4 sides, do the end grain first
Smart!!!!!
@@BatCaveCreations i have to admit that i use my elderly stanley 78, maybe it's time for a new veritas
oooh deff time to upgrade! :D
Honest question here, do you actually do woodworking or just tool videos? Don’t get me wrong I am a tool geek just wondering.
Lol ur good, I get the question 100%.
I build projects, just haven't been able too in well... a while now. I will start incorporating builds into the channel, I'm hoping by next month. Tools keep falling into my lap to review. Usually borrowed so I gotta do those videos then send them back before I can focus on a build.
Deff a valid question, so no worries here!
Rebates with the grain. Dados across the grain. The correct word is rebate; not rabat. As the word originated in English (perhaps some German, Nordic, French too) it is correct. Check out the original shoulder, rebate infill ‘planes’. These Veritas, lie Nielsen are too expensive compared to the aforementioned. Remember, you can chop/cut rebates with chisels along with a mallet. But, use a marking gauge to enable accurate sizes. Take care.
Chisels are alot of fun also!! But this plane was even more fun however I'm sure it will sit on my wishlist for a looong time!!
Skew plane's are a pain. I have a few of them but rarely use them. They only perform well on a very few types of timber and grain orientation. The trouble is that when they come under load the irons tend to twist and the edge dulls quickly. To avoid that the iron needs to be clamped down very securely but that tends to distort the body out of co planar. The only skews that actually work well are the japanese ones. The iron's are much better supported and block is only open a small amount. The sales pitch is that skews dont choke up like a square shoulder plane. Most of the time though they just dont work very well full stop.
People think skew reduces tear out. Nope. Quite the opposite. People think skew reduces resistance. Most of the time it increases it.
Its really an end grain trimming tool, thats all. Thats fine if your shooting mitres all day for picture frame's or the like but a regular low angle will do that just as well if not better. Save your money, its a gimmick toy really.
Instead of protrusion, say proud.
Thank you!
tape measure? there must be some carpenter in you, a tape measure is for building houses not small boxes!
i use the veritas layout blocks, they work well for what you are doing as well as the setup blocks.
Lol!! I agree!
Those layout blocks are now on my wish list lol thank you. Didn't know they existed
Just buy a Starrett 6" combination square and be done with the numerous option gimmicks.
Thanks Jamie! Man, I’m so antsy to get mine. Ordered mid May and expecting by the end of august 🥲
I use rabbets on my dovetails and I’m primarily a box maker, so this is going to be huge for me
Keep making the vids! Doing great man
Thank you!!
And I deff want one! Mike let me borrow that one but I will get one eventually :D