The plane - probably the tool that gives the most pleasure to work with. Something about that swishing sensation. My favourite - the record 06. Thank you for your video
I use mine a fair deal as I don't have machine tools. I work in a quiet workshop/garage. I've used mine on all types of hardwood and soft. Great video, I like the calm, clear delivery.
@@makingthings1463 Just came up from the shop and after the inevitable fiddly bits I was able to cut several 3/8" X 3/8" end grain rabbets in some 1 X 3 pine (watched your end grain demo). Took a practice piece or two to start getting comfortable, but as you promised, no end grain tear out. Thanks again and I'll look at the Stanley 192 video next.
Great video! Thanks for posting. I am currently making two large picture frames for my daughter and the only tool I have to make rebates is a router. As others have said, it is very noisy, very messy and takes quite a bit of time to to set up. I have ordered a second hand 78 and hope it is in good condition and not needing too much work to get in shape. If not, I'll have to go full retail! 😢. It is such a pleasure to use good, well tuned hand tools rather than painfull and expensive power tools.
When you need just one rabbet or two on a small project, you'll find the #78 is as fast or faster than setting up a router. Changing bits, setting depth, setting a fence on the router or work piece, doing a test cut, dealing with noise and dust. The only drawback I've encountered is doing a rabbet cut against grain, the solution of shallower cuts and a nicely sharpened iron (6000 grit is my minimum, yes, you'll notice the difference) works.
Wonderful video. I picked up a No. 78 on eBay a few months back, and just got around to fettling it, sharpening the blade, and tried using it. IT WORKS, and it cuts nice rabbets...if I remember to fully tighten the fence so it doesn't wander, and then to focus on holding the plane tight up against the fence on every stroke, to keep the inner corner of the rabbet sharp and clean. If I let my attention wander, and take just one stroke with the fence NOT tight up against the workpiece, the corner gets rounded, and I have to clean it up with a chisel later (I haven't yet figured out how to correct the issue with the plane, once that corner is rounded). However, I do run into a problem that you don't seem to have, not at all -- my No. 78 gets chips jammed into the innards very quickly -- I keep a pick on hand to dig them out. You get nice long even shavings, without a jam. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for the comment. I have jamming problems too, I think it has to do with the wood you are planning and its dryness and its grain. Whatever it was I used in that video must have been just right. I do try for thin shavings and have it as sharp as I know how. Thanks for watching.
Very pleasant video to watch with a really pleasing presenting style. I used one of these planes in the UK for many years and we also call this a rabbet plane. I always took this to be a corruption of rebate. When I used a Sranley 78 it was usually faster to set up and use than a router and there are few things more pleasing than the sound of a well set up plane shaving wood.
Thank you for the note. I agree with you, rabbet is a corruption of rebate. I so enjoyed your description of planing wood with a well set up hand plane. Just today I jointed a piece of wood with a Stanley no. 8 even though I have a power jointer. The plane is heavy and sharp and the grain was nice and helpful. It was a pleasure and nearly silent. Thanks again and enjoy your hand tools.
I have heard many old masters say that your blade should never be flush with the body. It was designed to protrude slightly so it gets right into the gullet of your rebate. Also, according to Stanley, experienced craftsmen, and every shop textbook I've ever read, have said that the nicker is there specifically to help it cut cross-grain. It may help for end grain, but that's not what it was designed for.
You are absolutely right. I meant to say across the grain and should have shown an across the grain rabbet. thank you for the great comment and thanks for watching.
I appreciate attention to this plane, it’s definitely not an essential tool but they do pop up at flea markets and junk shops/antique malls. To be clear about cutting end grain, the nicker pre-slices the fibers across the grain, essentially a tiny crosscut, right (the sole of the plane is resting on the face of the board as you plane)? I could see how someone could interpret what you’re saying as making a rabbet but resting the sole on the end of the board rather than the face, which is definitely doable on large stock but not practical on most stuff. Also, like ploughing grooves, if you have even mildly unforgiving grain it helps to start at the end of the rabbet and make a 1” nibble at the end and double or so the size of your stroke as you progress.
I have my fathers old No 78. It has all the attachments. I don't use it as I have a Router but the Plane is has a high sentimental value. Nice to see this vid even though I know how to use the plane. Thankyou for sharing.
By the time you get the Router out, plug it in, make the settings (depth and height), and get the dust extraction hooked up and functioning, get your ear protection and eye protection on; if you used your father's No 78 you would be long done and off to the next thing. Oh, and now you have to put all that stuff back- Router, fence, PPE, and vacuum up the shop from all the small dust, the dust extractions missed., just saying.
I’d recommend looking for a different model. The fence on the 78 only attaches at one point and likes to pivot out of square if you’re not very careful.
Thank you for the note. I agree you have be kind of gentle with it. The attachment point is right at the blade though, so the main bearing point is even with the blade. Which model do you use for this kind of thing? Always curious about what's out there. Thanks again.
@@makingthings1463 I have a 78. I’ve seen fillister planes with fences that attach at two points, but I don’t know what make they are. I just know I wished I would’ve gotten one.
Yeah the Record plane has 2 supports for the fence and a much better blade depth adjustment using a screw instead of the lever on the Stanley. Thanks again for the note.
A fillister is a rabbet across the grain, where as a rabbet it with the grain. To say that a rabbet is faster by router depends upon the router being set up in advance. A rabbet plane metal or wood is far faster than machines and I’d only need a machine if I have many many many yards of the same rabbet on multiple timbers to cut. Just my 2¢
Thanks for the comment. I meant 90 degrees across the sharp end of the blade in relation to the side of the blade. Sometimes when people sharpen by hand without a guide the angle can be off a bit. Most planes will let you correct with a lateral adjustment but this plane the side of the blade is flush with the 90 degree body of the plane. This will insure a level bottom of the rabbet. Thanks again, hope this made sense.
Thank you for the comment. The front section would be the equivalent to a bull-nose plane. Kind of hard to handle with very little toe in front of the blade. Also it is not aligned as well with the fence support. Thirdly, adjustment is tough because it does not have the adjustment lever at that location. Best reserved for bull-nose needs like cleaning up a rabbet at an inside corner. Thanks again.
Not really made for that. Can be used like a shoulder plane to clean up tenons though. For mortising I usually just drill with a forstner bit and chisel the edges square with a mortising chisel. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
The blade should be proud of the body by 1/2 mill to 1mill as the side edge of blade cuts your wall. You will also notice the side of blade is bevelled to help this action. cheers
Just got one that looks like it was never used at auction for $67.00 your video is saved in my reference section now thank you
Great find!!! Hope you enjoy using it. Thanks for watching and the comment.
The plane - probably the tool that gives the most pleasure to work with. Something about that swishing sensation.
My favourite - the record 06. Thank you for your video
Thank you for the comment.
Swiss swish Swiss dish😀
I use mine a fair deal as I don't have machine tools. I work in a quiet workshop/garage. I've used mine on all types of hardwood and soft. Great video, I like the calm, clear delivery.
Thank you for the comment. I must admit I like the quiet of a hand plane. Glad you’re enjoying yours. Thanks for watching.
Just acquired one of these planes and now I'm ready to put it to use, thanks to your excellent video. Thank you!
Thank you for the comment. I have another recent video on the Stanley 192 that you might also find interesting. Thanks again for watching.
@@makingthings1463 Just came up from the shop and after the inevitable fiddly bits I was able to cut several 3/8" X 3/8" end grain rabbets in some 1 X 3 pine (watched your end grain demo). Took a practice piece or two to start getting comfortable, but as you promised, no end grain tear out. Thanks again and I'll look at the Stanley 192 video next.
Wow...I have searched the web for this video. Great video and well done especially on its use and the parts it has! Thank you for sharing!!
Thank you for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video and well explained there is nothing like using hand tools that are looked after and maintained
Thank you for commenting. I agree.
Great video! Thanks for posting. I am currently making two large picture frames for my daughter and the only tool I have to make rebates is a router. As others have said, it is very noisy, very messy and takes quite a bit of time to to set up. I have ordered a second hand 78 and hope it is in good condition and not needing too much work to get in shape. If not, I'll have to go full retail! 😢. It is such a pleasure to use good, well tuned hand tools rather than painfull and expensive power tools.
Thanks for the comment. They both have their place but I agree. Sharp hand tools are a pleasure to use. Thanks again
When you need just one rabbet or two on a small project, you'll find the #78 is as fast or faster than setting up a router. Changing bits, setting depth, setting a fence on the router or work piece, doing a test cut, dealing with noise and dust. The only drawback I've encountered is doing a rabbet cut against grain, the solution of shallower cuts and a nicely sharpened iron (6000 grit is my minimum, yes, you'll notice the difference) works.
Thanks for the note. I agree, sharp really matters. I will also usually score with a knife across the grain instead of using the spur. Thanks again.
I used today to finish a chair rest arm.beautiful hand tool
I’m figuring it all out Unkie
Great
Thank you for the video.a friend of mine from the UK Has shipped me a NO⁰ 78 and it should be here in days. Now i know how to use it.
Thanks for the comment, hope you get lots of use out of it. Thanks for watching
Wonderful video. I picked up a No. 78 on eBay a few months back, and just got around to fettling it, sharpening the blade, and tried using it. IT WORKS, and it cuts nice rabbets...if I remember to fully tighten the fence so it doesn't wander, and then to focus on holding the plane tight up against the fence on every stroke, to keep the inner corner of the rabbet sharp and clean. If I let my attention wander, and take just one stroke with the fence NOT tight up against the workpiece, the corner gets rounded, and I have to clean it up with a chisel later (I haven't yet figured out how to correct the issue with the plane, once that corner is rounded).
However, I do run into a problem that you don't seem to have, not at all -- my No. 78 gets chips jammed into the innards very quickly -- I keep a pick on hand to dig them out. You get nice long even shavings, without a jam. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for the comment. I have jamming problems too, I think it has to do with the wood you are planning and its dryness and its grain. Whatever it was I used in that video must have been just right. I do try for thin shavings and have it as sharp as I know how. Thanks for watching.
Very pleasant video to watch with a really pleasing presenting style. I used one of these planes in the UK for many years and we also call this a rabbet plane. I always took this to be a corruption of rebate. When I used a Sranley 78 it was usually faster to set up and use than a router and there are few things more pleasing than the sound of a well set up plane shaving wood.
Thank you for the note. I agree with you, rabbet is a corruption of rebate. I so enjoyed your description of planing wood with a well set up hand plane. Just today I jointed a piece of wood with a Stanley no. 8 even though I have a power jointer. The plane is heavy and sharp and the grain was nice and helpful. It was a pleasure and nearly silent. Thanks again and enjoy your hand tools.
I have heard many old masters say that your blade should never be flush with the body. It was designed to protrude slightly so it gets right into the gullet of your rebate. Also, according to Stanley, experienced craftsmen, and every shop textbook I've ever read, have said that the nicker is there specifically to help it cut cross-grain. It may help for end grain, but that's not what it was designed for.
You are absolutely right. I meant to say across the grain and should have shown an across the grain rabbet. thank you for the great comment and thanks for watching.
I appreciate attention to this plane, it’s definitely not an essential tool but they do pop up at flea markets and junk shops/antique malls.
To be clear about cutting end grain, the nicker pre-slices the fibers across the grain, essentially a tiny crosscut, right (the sole of the plane is resting on the face of the board as you plane)? I could see how someone could interpret what you’re saying as making a rabbet but resting the sole on the end of the board rather than the face, which is definitely doable on large stock but not practical on most stuff.
Also, like ploughing grooves, if you have even mildly unforgiving grain it helps to start at the end of the rabbet and make a 1” nibble at the end and double or so the size of your stroke as you progress.
Great suggestions, thank you for the comments and thanks for watching.
The 78 works like a charm love using mine!
Thank you for commenting. They are a great little tool and more uses than you think. Thanks again.
I’ve got one but learned an extra little trick thanks to you sir ,thank you so much.
Thank you for the comment. A great little tool.
this is amazing even if it takes a few extra minutes I think it would help prevent tear out compared to a router Thanks for the video !!
I agree, thanks for watching..
Just inherited one of these. Super helpful video.
Thank you for the comment. I think you'll enjoy cutting a rabbet with it. Enjoy and thanks for watching
I have my fathers old No 78. It has all the attachments. I don't use it as I have a Router but the Plane is has a high sentimental value. Nice to see this vid even though I know how to use the plane. Thankyou for sharing.
Thank you for the note.
By the time you get the Router out, plug it in, make the settings (depth and height), and get the dust extraction hooked up and functioning, get your ear protection and eye protection on; if you used your father's No 78 you would be long done and off to the next thing. Oh, and now you have to put all that stuff back- Router, fence, PPE, and vacuum up the shop from all the small dust, the dust extractions missed., just saying.
my first old tool that wasn't a bench plane(long time ago!) handy little guy. never used the bullnose part though!
Glad you like it. Thanks for the comment
Mine was sold at Montgomery Wards store, when new.... IF your left thumb is sore after using this, just the way this work..
Thanks for your comment
I’d recommend looking for a different model. The fence on the 78 only attaches at one point and likes to pivot out of square if you’re not very careful.
Thank you for the note. I agree you have be kind of gentle with it. The attachment point is right at the blade though, so the main bearing point is even with the blade.
Which model do you use for this kind of thing? Always curious about what's out there. Thanks again.
@@makingthings1463 I have a 78. I’ve seen fillister planes with fences that attach at two points, but I don’t know what make they are. I just know I wished I would’ve gotten one.
Thanks again. I'm afraid if I had the room and the $$$ I'd have them all.
Thank you again and enjoy working with these old tools.
@@christophermcclellan8730
That is the Record 778.
Probably better than the Stanley 78.
Yeah the Record plane has 2 supports for the fence and a much better blade depth adjustment using a screw instead of the lever on the Stanley.
Thanks again for the note.
Restoring a 78 right now….just flattened the sole and the side and got them 90’…I will use it mostly as a shoulder plane
Sorry I missed this comment so long ago. Hope you're using this by now. A great versatile little plane. Thanks again
Thanks for your U tube channel
Thanks again
A fillister is a rabbet across the grain, where as a rabbet it with the grain. To say that a rabbet is faster by router depends upon the router being set up in advance. A rabbet plane metal or wood is far faster than machines and I’d only need a machine if I have many many many yards of the same rabbet on multiple timbers to cut. Just my 2¢
I agree!!, thank you for the comment. and thanks for watching.
Can you say more about your 90 degrees comment on sharpening? It doesn’t look like a 90 degree plane angle.
Thanks for the comment. I meant 90 degrees across the sharp end of the blade in relation to the side of the blade. Sometimes when people sharpen by hand without a guide the angle can be off a bit. Most planes will let you correct with a lateral adjustment but this plane the side of the blade is flush with the 90 degree body of the plane. This will insure a level bottom of the rabbet. Thanks again, hope this made sense.
And what is the difference between putting the blade in the middle section vs the front section?
Thank you for the comment. The front section would be the equivalent to a bull-nose plane. Kind of hard to handle with very little toe in front of the blade. Also it is not aligned as well with the fence support. Thirdly, adjustment is tough because it does not have the adjustment lever at that location. Best reserved for bull-nose needs like cleaning up a rabbet at an inside corner. Thanks again.
Can it be used for mortise?
Not really made for that. Can be used like a shoulder plane to clean up tenons though. For mortising I usually just drill with a forstner bit and chisel the edges square with a mortising chisel.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
I just inherited a box from unkie.And there’s a Stanley 78
RIP Unkie
Thanks for the comment
Enjoy your new plane.
Por favor pasar estos videos en español latino
Thank you for watching.
nice
Thanks for the comment. Don't know how I missed this 6 months ago. Thank you for watching.
O , man love mine ☺️
Thanks for the comment
Штука хорошая,, Если бы ещё нож под косым углом,как на Weritas ах Стружку лучше будет выкидывать
Thank you
The blade should be proud of the body by 1/2 mill to 1mill as the side edge of blade cuts your wall. You will also notice the side of blade is bevelled to help this action. cheers
Thanks for the comment, sorry I missed this 6 months ago. Thank you for watching.
Great comment! I was losing my mind trying to figure out why the walls of my rabbets were so rough!