We have started casting pods. Not sure what that means? Hit the link: www.hpatechtorque.com/ Make sure you do so while wearing the appropriate attire, sourced here: shop.hpacademy.com/- Taz 👨🏻
Got woken up this morning to a TNT guy delivering my new rods... goto kitchen, makes coffee, opens TH-cam and finds this video. Thanks HPA and team for being psychic!! :)
@@greggreg6975 I’m just watching the trump rally for the lols then going to weigh the new rods vs the old rods.. I was surprised by how heavy the box was... interested to see the weight difference between new and old.
@@stooartbabay im going to do the same tomorrow if i get a gap. Heavy could be a good thing mate..lol I hope so, cause mine is very heavy too. What type of rods did you get?
@@greggreg6975 I got maxpeeding rods (CR-MG-165) for my BMC B series 1800 engine, for an Austin 1800 race engine I am building... same engine you see in the MGBs that do historic racing/track days.. :)
@@stooartbabay Awesome mate.. I have seen quite a few guys running those rods here with great results. I decided to go with PPM rods. Never used them before so I hope they're as strong as advertised.. lol I
Another thing that people usually overlook is the fatigue strength of a given metal used for building the rod. Steel has a very high fatigue strength, while Aluminum and even Titanium alloys not so much. So, even though some alloys might be suitable for high horsepower applications, they will most probably never match the long term reliability of a steel alloy.
Most rod issues I have seen relate to overheating or trying to run the engine without oil. Connecting rods don't appear to be the weakest link in just about any build. I strongly suspect that unless you are doing 1000hp 1/8 mile drag racing that after market rods are usually snake oil.
We disagree to such a blanket statement. Different engines have different weak points according to the modifications and cylinder pressures they see. Here's a relatively lower power example of a bent rod, hope it helps: www.hpacademy.com/blog/we-bent-a-rod-turbocharged-fa20-rebuild-ghetto-build/ - Taz.
as always, a lot of good info here ! the weight of the rod is also import, for high RPM NA engine, it's better to have a lighter rod than a low RPM high torque turbo engine (obvious for some people ... but bigger isn't always better) weight eat power at high RPM
Not exactly. For example, in a drag racing application, it's been proven that heavier weight rotating assemblies will accelerate the car faster due to inertia. For a road race application, or an application that that is under constant accel and decel conditions, lighter weight is a benefit. On my dragster, I lost .15 seconds in et and 3 mph going to a lighter weight flex plate. Going back to a heavier assembly gained my et and mph back.
Forgot to add though, with loss of weight, a certain amount of strength is also lost, and there is a definite limit when it comes to durability and longevity.
This is not a hard question at all, it's just not about power . The material strength/design has a compressive and tensile strength... I’m talking force. So you're right, it's not about power, it is however very closely related to both rpm and cylinder pressure. Cylinder pressure is fairly closely related to torque. It is entirely possible to give both an RPM and extrapolate a torque limit for a connecting rod with the only real variables being if the engine is supercharged or not. It would be simple to create a table for a motor with rpm limits based on stroke and piston weight and rpm. The same could be done with torque limits but it would be based on induction type.
I just received my new rods..settled on PPM rods over the boostline with 625 bolts. I had to go through all that... very frustrating trying to calculate cylinder pressure vs piston size ect. I just ended up getting the strongest rods I could find??
Me after watching forged in fire for several years: So you're telling me Damascus forged rods are possible ? Carrillo: Sir this isn't how this works exactly. Also me: So you're saying it's not impossible, just not available yet ?
Great video as always! Quick general question, if you take an engine and change nothing else except increase power by adding boost (not increasing the RPM) would the cap bolts be under any additional stress, since the stress is really only on the exhaust stroke?
How close should the connecting rod weights be within each other? What is an acceptable tolerance. E.g. all to be within 0.1 gram of each other at the big end and little end.
Is it possible to over-specify a rod? I guess the stronger rods are heavier, but for example the bolts. Putting weight and cost aside are there any downsides liking lifing/fatigue?
Great video .... One tought tho ... When you speak about the special material rodbolts ... So you cant touch them with your bare hands because of the natural oils on our skin tho them being in engineoil all the time isnt any issue ? Thanx again for the knowledge ! Cant ever learn to much about your passion 💪
Great vid. Dont mean to be an ass know it all but Pretty sure custom age 625+ is impervious to hydrogen embrittlement. Its L19 that is prone to corrosion and hydrogen embrittlement.
Not something we have experience with at this stage but also not something we feel the need to trial just yet either in our own applications. Will see if we can get some more info on them for you via an interview at PRI later this year though as a few people have asked about them previously too - Taz.
We have started casting pods. Not sure what that means? Hit the link: www.hpatechtorque.com/
Make sure you do so while wearing the appropriate attire, sourced here: shop.hpacademy.com/- Taz 👨🏻
Got woken up this morning to a TNT guy delivering my new rods... goto kitchen, makes coffee, opens TH-cam and finds this video. Thanks HPA and team for being psychic!! :)
Same here.. lol.. opened up the shop door and there was the courier with mine..then this video.
Perfect timing.
@@greggreg6975 I’m just watching the trump rally for the lols then going to weigh the new rods vs the old rods.. I was surprised by how heavy the box was... interested to see the weight difference between new and old.
@@stooartbabay im going to do the same tomorrow if i get a gap. Heavy could be a good thing mate..lol I hope so, cause mine is very heavy too.
What type of rods did you get?
@@greggreg6975 I got maxpeeding rods (CR-MG-165) for my BMC B series 1800 engine, for an Austin 1800 race engine I am building... same engine you see in the MGBs that do historic racing/track days.. :)
@@stooartbabay Awesome mate.. I have seen quite a few guys running those rods here with great results.
I decided to go with PPM rods.
Never used them before so I hope they're as strong as advertised.. lol
I
Next time I'm in New Zealand I need to stop by HPA, you guys are awesome.
Another thing that people usually overlook is the fatigue strength of a given metal used for building the rod.
Steel has a very high fatigue strength, while Aluminum and even Titanium alloys not so much. So, even though some alloys might be suitable for high horsepower applications, they will most probably never match the long term reliability of a steel alloy.
Best video of the year so far :-)
High quality content as usual. Keep up the excellent work
Most rod issues I have seen relate to overheating or trying to run the engine without oil. Connecting rods don't appear to be the weakest link in just about any build. I strongly suspect that unless you are doing 1000hp 1/8 mile drag racing that after market rods are usually snake oil.
We disagree to such a blanket statement. Different engines have different weak points according to the modifications and cylinder pressures they see.
Here's a relatively lower power example of a bent rod, hope it helps: www.hpacademy.com/blog/we-bent-a-rod-turbocharged-fa20-rebuild-ghetto-build/ - Taz.
The one thing to learn about engine builds is how very subjective and dependant selection of parts is.
Always the best information about anything engine related
as always, a lot of good info here !
the weight of the rod is also import, for high RPM NA engine, it's better to have a lighter rod than a low RPM high torque turbo engine (obvious for some people ... but bigger isn't always better) weight eat power at high RPM
Not exactly. For example, in a drag racing application, it's been proven that heavier weight rotating assemblies will accelerate the car faster due to inertia. For a road race application, or an application that that is under constant accel and decel conditions, lighter weight is a benefit. On my dragster, I lost .15 seconds in et and 3 mph going to a lighter weight flex plate. Going back to a heavier assembly gained my et and mph back.
Forgot to add though, with loss of weight, a certain amount of strength is also lost, and there is a definite limit when it comes to durability and longevity.
I only thought the L19 bolts suffered from the problems with acids from your skin etc? Interesting. Great vid as always guys 😎👍
Very informative video! Pity there was no mention of billet steel vs forged rods and their pros and cons.
This is not a hard question at all, it's just not about power . The material strength/design has a compressive and tensile strength... I’m talking force. So you're right, it's not about power, it is however very closely related to both rpm and cylinder pressure. Cylinder pressure is fairly closely related to torque. It is entirely possible to give both an RPM and extrapolate a torque limit for a connecting rod with the only real variables being if the engine is supercharged or not. It would be simple to create a table for a motor with rpm limits based on stroke and piston weight and rpm. The same could be done with torque limits but it would be based on induction type.
I just received my new rods..settled on PPM rods over the boostline with 625 bolts.
I had to go through all that... very frustrating trying to calculate cylinder pressure vs piston size ect.
I just ended up getting the strongest rods I could find??
Me after watching forged in fire for several years: So you're telling me Damascus forged rods are possible ?
Carrillo: Sir this isn't how this works exactly.
Also me: So you're saying it's not impossible, just not available yet ?
Great video as always!
Quick general question, if you take an engine and change nothing else except increase power by adding boost (not increasing the RPM) would the cap bolts be under any additional stress, since the stress is really only on the exhaust stroke?
Andre you forgot to mention conrod length and piston compression height. Cheers
How close should the connecting rod weights be within each other? What is an acceptable tolerance. E.g. all to be within 0.1 gram of each other at the big end and little end.
Very close
If all seem off, take to machine shop and they’ll shave some off and have them weighted/balanced
Is it possible to over-specify a rod? I guess the stronger rods are heavier, but for example the bolts. Putting weight and cost aside are there any downsides liking lifing/fatigue?
Great video ....
One tought tho ... When you speak about the special material rodbolts ... So you cant touch them with your bare hands because of the natural oils on our skin tho them being in engineoil all the time isnt any issue ?
Thanx again for the knowledge !
Cant ever learn to much about your passion 💪
Not so much the oil, our sweat is acidic. If you have ever worn anything made from copper or bronze you'll see the results of it first hand :) - Taz.
Great vid. Dont mean to be an ass know it all but Pretty sure custom age 625+ is impervious to hydrogen embrittlement. Its L19 that is prone to corrosion and hydrogen embrittlement.
Any thoughts on carbon fiber connecting rods?
Not something we have experience with at this stage but also not something we feel the need to trial just yet either in our own applications. Will see if we can get some more info on them for you via an interview at PRI later this year though as a few people have asked about them previously too - Taz.
@highperformanceacademy how much power will I get on 10psi of boost?
At least 174 snapping ducks worth, unless they are pūtangitangi ducks as they don't move a lot - Taz.
Dude, get a camera tripod and step at least 10ft back.