First year using Immunox fungicide and no cedar apple rust. I started spring when the leaves were finger nail length. I tried organic but it didn’t work. My apples and the tree looks great. For insects, spinosad is spectacular. Those are the only 2 sprays I use. I also apply a stretchable wrap at the truck and apply sticky gel to stop ants from putting aphids on the new growth.
Excellent advice. I will certainly look into your remedies. I found the organic stuff was a waste of time myself. Thank you for the information! Cheers.
I Have this problem on my pear tree , plum tree and hedge plants . I started spraying with apple cider vinegar and water mixture 3 times a week ….. baking soda and water mixture once a week .
It’s interesting I have an Fireside apple tree that is 12 years old and it’s has had cedar apple rust for about 8 of those years. This year it has grown like crazy and has more apples than ever before. I do eat the apples, but only the pretty clean ones. I leave them for the deer. Next tree will be cedar rust resistant because dang it’s frustrating!
Has it stunted the growth of the tree overall and have did it affect fruit yield in the early years? I am still debating cutting the trees out of y orchard. It is just too much effort to try to keep the healthy.
@@TheLittleOrchardFarm it’s a little hard to tell how stunted it’s growth might be because I only have one apple tree. This is definitely the most apples we have ever seen. It only produces apples every other year. I would say that is a hard call on whether to cut them down or not. I think it is a lot of work to try and get rid of the rust, but trees are expensive. I looked at my apples and I probably have 30% really good apples. Of the remainder it is probably a 50/50 split between rust damage and big damage. I mostly keep the tree to feed the deer that come through our yard. I have not planted any others because of the rust but I might try another variety that is more resistant. I do have a crabapple tree which does not have rust but I not sure it is susceptible to it. Good luck!
it really makes me wonder how the local commercial orchards make it work when I seemingly can't keep 2, 6ft backyard apple trees healthy and rust free.
Ok a bit late to the party but I battled the evil cedar rust for several seasons before finally "throwing in the towel"! The first year I learned to late to do much good but the second year I started the copper fungicide early and was diligent in applying, SUCCESS! Or so I thought! While the trees were tiny like those shown here it worked quite well but as the semi-dwarf and even the full dwarf trees matured and grew bigger it became apparent that to say it was a daunting task to save the trees was an understatement! After wasting 6 years I finally gave up and realized that while I still have to spray the other trees to combat various diseases and insects fighting the evil rust just wasn't worth it when the best I could do still yielded dismal results. When they're small it's fairly easy but as they grow it becomes progressively more difficult until it's just not worth it (for me anyway) when there are so many really good and MUCH less intensive varieties out there. As a side note it was mentioned at the beginning of the video that red delicious was also very much affected by cedar rust but everything I have read, and it certainly has been the case with my red delicious, that they are one of the most resistant apples to this disease,so that comment is a bit puzzling???? If Cedar rust is a problem for an area it "can" be dealt with but as the trees mature it just becomes more and more of a battle that to me anyway just wasn't worth it.
I got 1 of the delicious green apple trees about 5 yrs old now amd its got this really bad this yr. There's spots everywhere! I found what looks like one tiny apple and ive noticed ants everywhere. So spray copper stuff on it how often and how long??
So they say start early in the spring when the rains are heaviest. Spray until first blooms set. Intervals are something like every 2 weeks but check me on that. It is on the label of your copper fungicide.
Hi, so what's wrong if the leaves /new leaves or newly growth is dying. You know the tips of the new growth. Sorry, I really don't know how to explain it. I just planted an apple tree, and the leaves are sprouting out, but the tips are dying. Thank you.
So Rhea, I had this happen to several of my peach trees recently. In my case, it was frost related. If you live in a zone that has recently seen frost, the chances are your leaves are showing signs of "frostbite". I'd keep an eye on the new leaves to see if they exhibit the same symptoms. If it is not frost related, it is water related. The tip cells are the first to die off when they are in drought conditions. Young trees need to be watered regularly during their growth spurts. This watering helps the tree establish great root systems, solid trunk formation, and healthy foliage. Hope this helps! Cheers.
Thank you for sharing. I have two apple trees with apple cedar rust, that already have tiny apples. I just sprayed with copper fungicide. Is there any chance of being able to eat those apples when they are ripe? Or just prepare that the fruits will be badly affected and give up this year's harvest...
Yeah, once the fruit has contracted the rust it will not be good to eat. It is not guaranteed that every apple will get the rust but from what I’ve learned is that you must remove all the fruit and leaves that have the rust. Next season, spray once early in the spring and again right before the blooms flower for the best chance to avoid the rust. Good luck and thanks for watching our video! Cheers.
Hi Michelle. Yes, I still use Copper Fungicide and to date I have only noticed a small infection to one of our Gala trees. Unlike last season where I used it sparingly, I have begun using it about every 10 days to lessen the infection possibility. I will not use it once the weather dries and the temperatures rise. Really, from an organic perspective, this is the best option I know of. And with all the Eastern Red Cedars around me sometimes I think I am fighting a losing battle but the fungicide seems to be holding its own. I highly recommend Copper Fungicide. Although, remember, it is not a cure for trees already infected with rust, it is best used before the wet season when spores become more airborne active. Hope this helps. Have a great day!
Got the same problem with my newly planted apple tree. Going to go get some copper fungicide today. Question, how will you deal with this once the tree is fully grown?
Well, we've had a few conversations about that. One, we will probably keep the trees trimmed back to 8-10 feet so that maintenance is easier. This should encourage the tree to grow more laterally. Two, we talked about investing in a larger sprayer and using the rtv to drive alongside the trees to spray. But here is the real kicker, I am finding with the amount of rain (and probably the number of eastern reds in the area) I am finding it difficult to keep all the cedar apple rust at bay. Even with well coated trees I am seeing some signs of rust. I don't think it is enough to affect the fruit or health of the tree but keeping it out all together seems to be a long shot. I'll keep you updated.
@@TheLittleOrchardFarm Thank you. It's all a learning experience for me. We have one semi dwarf self polinating apple tree. Also one each dwarf self pollinating apricot and pear tree. The apricot and pear look fine. We only have 1/2 acre. Doing raised bed and container gardening along with the fruit trees. Oh and a new carawaba grape vine that is looking good so far. Didn't know a juniper bush was also called a red cedar.
Sounds like you are doing great. Sure to be some good fruit in the seasons to come. That is what it is all about - livin’ and learnin’. Not sure what part of the world you are in but in the South, the only other real bugger is the Japanese beetles that come out in June. They will eat a tree bare! Take care and good luck!
@@TheLittleOrchardFarm I’m at the point that I’m cover my little apple tree with plastic every winter and unwrapping in may just to prevent migration of fungus spores. It’s a lot of work! No clue what I’m going to do if this tree hits 10+ft in height
I advise my friends and relatives not to grow apple trees in their backyard in my zone ( 7B). They do good in the spring and looks beautiful with 100s of apples on the tree. But, ones the day time temperatures hit 90s, they look ugly with brown spots on the leaves and fruits hanging half rotten.
Sorry Kimette. Working hard on talking to a camera and not directly to someone. When I do this without a camera my wife says I am a little off my rocker. Glad you watched the video. Take care.
The video was fascinating, however I couldn't help but notice how well groomed this guy is.
👍😀
First year using Immunox fungicide and no cedar apple rust. I started spring when the leaves were finger nail length. I tried organic but it didn’t work. My apples and the tree looks great. For insects, spinosad is spectacular. Those are the only 2 sprays I use. I also apply a stretchable wrap at the truck and apply sticky gel to stop ants from putting aphids on the new growth.
Excellent advice. I will certainly look into your remedies. I found the organic stuff was a waste of time myself. Thank you for the information! Cheers.
What is the specific product you bought
@@vendetta9254 Spectracide Immunox for gardens
The sound of pumping that sprayer could double as a turkey call, lol!
LOL! You may be on to something.
I Have this problem on my pear tree , plum tree and hedge plants . I started spraying with apple cider vinegar and water mixture 3 times a week ….. baking soda and water mixture once a week .
Thanks for sharing
You need to remove the infected leaves baby. Love your couch! Love you!!!
Thanks! Love you!! 💗
I have numerous infected leaves. Leave as is or remove? Remove: when and how?
I just did electro culture techniques and the cedar rust went away.
Also took copper shavings and sprinkled it all around my apples trees. Done.
Copper shavings? Interesting. I will be looking into to that for sure. Thanks for the info!
Awesome video, thanks for the info on how to treat apple fungus or rust . Cincinnati Ohio
Thank you and glad to help. 👍
Thank you!
You are very welcome!
It’s interesting I have an Fireside apple tree that is 12 years old and it’s has had cedar apple rust for about 8 of those years. This year it has grown like crazy and has more apples than ever before. I do eat the apples, but only the pretty clean ones. I leave them for the deer. Next tree will be cedar rust resistant because dang it’s frustrating!
Has it stunted the growth of the tree overall and have did it affect fruit yield in the early years? I am still debating cutting the trees out of y orchard. It is just too much effort to try to keep the healthy.
@@TheLittleOrchardFarm it’s a little hard to tell how stunted it’s growth might be because I only have one apple tree. This is definitely the most apples we have ever seen. It only produces apples every other year. I would say that is a hard call on whether to cut them down or not. I think it is a lot of work to try and get rid of the rust, but trees are expensive. I looked at my apples and I probably have 30% really good apples. Of the remainder it is probably a 50/50 split between rust damage and big damage. I mostly keep the tree to feed the deer that come through our yard. I have not planted any others because of the rust but I might try another variety that is more resistant. I do have a crabapple tree which does not have rust but I not sure it is susceptible to it. Good luck!
The experts are now saying 10 miles depending on the wind speed and direction
Crazy, huh? CAR is terrible on my apple trees. Check out the latest video where I provide an update from last week. Thanks for watching!
I need giant sized plastic bags for my trees!
it really makes me wonder how the local commercial orchards make it work when I seemingly can't keep 2, 6ft backyard apple trees healthy and rust free.
LOL! Same here. I suspect there are lots of chemicals involved. And folks that know a whole lot more than I.
I say lots of chemicals.
Great video, thank you!
Glad you liked it! 👍
Thank thank thank you
You are very welcome.
Ok a bit late to the party but I battled the evil cedar rust for several seasons before finally "throwing in the towel"! The first year I learned to late to do much good but the second year I started the copper fungicide early and was diligent in applying, SUCCESS! Or so I thought! While the trees were tiny like those shown here it worked quite well but as the semi-dwarf and even the full dwarf trees matured and grew bigger it became apparent that to say it was a daunting task to save the trees was an understatement! After wasting 6 years I finally gave up and realized that while I still have to spray the other trees to combat various diseases and insects fighting the evil rust just wasn't worth it when the best I could do still yielded dismal results. When they're small it's fairly easy but as they grow it becomes progressively more difficult until it's just not worth it (for me anyway) when there are so many really good and MUCH less intensive varieties out there.
As a side note it was mentioned at the beginning of the video that red delicious was also very much affected by cedar rust but everything I have read, and it certainly has been the case with my red delicious, that they are one of the most resistant apples to this disease,so that comment is a bit puzzling???? If Cedar rust is a problem for an area it "can" be dealt with but as the trees mature it just becomes more and more of a battle that to me anyway just wasn't worth it.
Great info Cat Man! Thanks for the comments. I agree that I am cutting my losses before I spend too much time on them.
Agreed. Did little orchard farm remove the trees?
thank you.
You're welcome!
Can you make some videos on this subject again this year
I plan on addressing several potential pitfalls in the orchard this year. Thanks for the request!
This was very helpful
Thank you!
Any recommended brands for the first biofungicide you mentioned?
I mostly use Bonide, but here is a nice little website with some alternatives: www.arbico-organics.com/category/biological-fungicides.
I got 1 of the delicious green apple trees about 5 yrs old now amd its got this really bad this yr. There's spots everywhere! I found what looks like one tiny apple and ive noticed ants everywhere. So spray copper stuff on it how often and how long??
So they say start early in the spring when the rains are heaviest. Spray until first blooms set. Intervals are something like every 2 weeks but check me on that. It is on the label of your copper fungicide.
Wonder if whey, would work; spraying just before rain.
Someone else mentioned that. It just might work! Haven't tried it, but just may.
Hi, so what's wrong if the leaves /new leaves or newly growth is dying. You know the tips of the new growth. Sorry, I really don't know how to explain it. I just planted an apple tree, and the leaves are sprouting out, but the tips are dying. Thank you.
So Rhea, I had this happen to several of my peach trees recently. In my case, it was frost related. If you live in a zone that has recently seen frost, the chances are your leaves are showing signs of "frostbite". I'd keep an eye on the new leaves to see if they exhibit the same symptoms. If it is not frost related, it is water related. The tip cells are the first to die off when they are in drought conditions. Young trees need to be watered regularly during their growth spurts. This watering helps the tree establish great root systems, solid trunk formation, and healthy foliage. Hope this helps! Cheers.
Thank you for sharing. I have two apple trees with apple cedar rust, that already have tiny apples. I just sprayed with copper fungicide. Is there any chance of being able to eat those apples when they are ripe? Or just prepare that the fruits will be badly affected and give up this year's harvest...
Yeah, once the fruit has contracted the rust it will not be good to eat. It is not guaranteed that every apple will get the rust but from what I’ve learned is that you must remove all the fruit and leaves that have the rust. Next season, spray once early in the spring and again right before the blooms flower for the best chance to avoid the rust. Good luck and thanks for watching our video! Cheers.
Can you give us an update on how this product worked? Do you still use this product? If not why? If not did you find something that did work? Thanks
Hi Michelle. Yes, I still use Copper Fungicide and to date I have only noticed a small infection to one of our Gala trees. Unlike last season where I used it sparingly, I have begun using it about every 10 days to lessen the infection possibility. I will not use it once the weather dries and the temperatures rise. Really, from an organic perspective, this is the best option I know of. And with all the Eastern Red Cedars around me sometimes I think I am fighting a losing battle but the fungicide seems to be holding its own. I highly recommend Copper Fungicide. Although, remember, it is not a cure for trees already infected with rust, it is best used before the wet season when spores become more airborne active. Hope this helps. Have a great day!
Love
Back at you!
Got the same problem with my newly planted apple tree. Going to go get some copper fungicide today.
Question, how will you deal with this once the tree is fully grown?
Well, we've had a few conversations about that. One, we will probably keep the trees trimmed back to 8-10 feet so that maintenance is easier. This should encourage the tree to grow more laterally. Two, we talked about investing in a larger sprayer and using the rtv to drive alongside the trees to spray. But here is the real kicker, I am finding with the amount of rain (and probably the number of eastern reds in the area) I am finding it difficult to keep all the cedar apple rust at bay. Even with well coated trees I am seeing some signs of rust. I don't think it is enough to affect the fruit or health of the tree but keeping it out all together seems to be a long shot. I'll keep you updated.
@@TheLittleOrchardFarm Thank you. It's all a learning experience for me. We have one semi dwarf self polinating apple tree. Also one each dwarf self pollinating apricot and pear tree. The apricot and pear look fine. We only have 1/2 acre. Doing raised bed and container gardening along with the fruit trees. Oh and a new carawaba grape vine that is looking good so far. Didn't know a juniper bush was also called a red cedar.
Sounds like you are doing great. Sure to be some good fruit in the seasons to come. That is what it is all about - livin’ and learnin’. Not sure what part of the world you are in but in the South, the only other real bugger is the Japanese beetles that come out in June. They will eat a tree bare! Take care and good luck!
@@TheLittleOrchardFarm I’m at the point that I’m cover my little apple tree with plastic every winter and unwrapping in may just to prevent migration of fungus spores.
It’s a lot of work! No clue what I’m going to do if this tree hits 10+ft in height
I advise my friends and relatives not to grow apple trees in their backyard in my zone ( 7B). They do good in the spring and looks beautiful with 100s of apples on the tree. But, ones the day time temperatures hit 90s, they look ugly with brown spots on the leaves and fruits hanging half rotten.
I am finding that to be excellent advice. But being the stubborn guy I am, I’m gonna try. 😄
Seriously dude.. try to eliminate all the excessive filler words ...umm.umm.ummmm and get to the point.
Sorry Kimette. Working hard on talking to a camera and not directly to someone. When I do this without a camera my wife says I am a little off my rocker. Glad you watched the video. Take care.