man, I love Thomas! he's got that dry sense of humor and is your like sidekick. I always crack-up laughing when he does the weeds! You 2 make an awesome team! Keep up the great work! I always enjoy watching your videos.
(Re: washing kitchen knives): I scrub my kitchen knives with a sponge, even with the “non-scratching” scrubber sometimes. I use two different methods. One is just like DCA’s recommendation of putting it on a flat surface and scrub. The second is to hold the knife handle firmly in one hand, and with your other hand, scrub both sides by grabbing the knife with the sponge FROM THE SPINE SIDE, like a clam shell! And as advised, ALWAYS brush or scrub away from the edge and not into it.
I totally agree with your recommendation of the Manix2 LW for opening plastic “canvas” bags. If you use the forward finger choil, the Manix2 will not get tangled up in the fibers as you rip through the bag. I use mine frequently to cut through feed bags and don’t have the tangling problem. And don’t even bother taking the pocket clip off. It takes up no extra room in your pocket anyway. I love everything about my Manix2, from the bidirectional handle texture to the ultra slicey blade.
Hey DCA, can you help distinguish the most popular steel types by their actual usefulness (not just their metallurgic properties that we're all familiar with)? Would love to see you organize some groups of the popular steels by their real-world functions, and help us visualize these with a perfect steel/function/design example. (Bonus points for pointing out which steels are essentially identical) Thanks!
Thanks for answering my question. 👍 I did mean car detailing. This why I ask you, because I've never seen the Cold Steel Kiradashi. P.s. it's just Littlecountry. No, x's. P.p.s. I was referring to the type of sacks Thomas said. Thanks Thomas.
Thank you for asking the question! I wasn’t aware anyone was making a non-metal clip now! I’m nervous I’ll scratch my car when I’m the garage (tight fit).
Perfect timing for this video. Wustholf says their knives are sharpened to 14 degrees. I follow that… sort of…paring knives are 14, utility are 15 and Chef’s are 16. I received my Worksharp about a month ago and am experimenting. Doing most of my pocket/fixed blade knives to 20 degrees like you said. 1/4” thick blades may be 25 degrees .
I bought that Worksharp model, and it is the best thing I have found to put hair shaving sharpness on my knives. Every one now has near scalpel sharp edges. I use 22 degrees for my folders, 17 degrees for the wife's kitchen knives, and 30 degrees for the big field knives that have 1/4" blade steel. These work for me, with only a couple that wound up getting a slight re=profile from it.
Re: best electricians knife…I prefer a folder, but the blade shape i always choose is a tanto with a straight edge. Regardless of what trade you’re in, imho it is the most versatile. It gives you two cutting edges and two points for different uses. The ability to scrape and chisel with the leading edge (cleaning mortises, scraping stickers off, etc.) is very useful. For electrical work in particular, i use the second point to nick the romex sheathing, after i peel it back off the conductors, i can reach into the jbox, and cut it cleanly at the base. The straight edges also allow you to always “know” where your edge is, if that makes sense. I haven’t owned either of these so can’t speak for their quality, but the crkt m-16 and bestech explorer would be what i would get. My favorite knife has a chisel grind, but unfortunately isn’t sold at knife center.
Hi David (and Seth), My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question: I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features: 1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard") 2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong) 3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it... 4) About 3" or more Blade Length 5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly. 6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip 7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each. Thanks so much!
24:24 You put them into hot dishwater (with dish soap), let them soak a bit, then you can carefully scrub away with a sponge. I use a 2 sided sponge. I bend the sponge, so I kinda clam the blade with the sponge between my thumb and some of the other fingers. Then I scrub back and forth, watching the edge closely. The soaking part in hot dish-water helps the most, then you don't have to scrub hard at all. Let the crusted stuff get soaked up well, and Bob's your uncle. 🙂 Alternatively you can also "strop" your knife on your soaked up sponge. (Soaked up with dish-soap-water of course.)
Question (or clarification) The "A" in A2 tool steel indicates Air hardening. The "W" in W2 tool steel indicates water quench, the "O" in O2 tool steel indicates oil quench. What does the "D" in D2 tool steel indicate?
Hello DCA, Setherson, and guy behind the camera. I'd like to start by saying that I really don't like a combo edge, but I recently realized that a combo edge would benefit me greatly at work. I know it's not hard to find a good combo edge knife, BUT, what I need is for serrations to be in front, plain edge in back. Would be a huge bonus if the serrations were not only up front, but had some belly to the as well. Thank you in advance
Hey DCA, Loving all these segments. Very informative. Answering the question about cleaning Japanese cooking knives, I use a knife cleaning brush, mine is from Joseph Joseph. They are safe and effective. And not expensive, an added bonus.
Electrician/Knife Guy here! My current work EDC is a PM2 or an AD20.5, depending on how I'm feeling. I also carried a benchmade mini freek for awhile and liked it. For electrical work, you tend to want something in the Wharncliffe/sheepsfoot territory, and a lot of folks even specifically carry a Hawksbill knife. I haven't seen a quality fixed blade that really screams "electrical work" to me, although I've heard the Mora Robust is a popular choice in Europe?
The whole blade length issue makes me glad that I live in Oregon. In my State there is no such thing as an illegal knife. You can own and carry any knife you like.. The only restriction is that only "pocket knives" may be carried concealed. While there is no clear definition of what a "pocket knife" is, I can tell you that back in the 80's a judge here ruled that the classic switchblade IS a pocket knife and can be carried concealed, so there ya go. Just to be safe I make sure my Benchmade 581 is always clearly visible while clipped in my pocket, but really I'm not to worried about it.
As an electrician myself, I'm looking forward to purchasing the new microtech Lineman tool. Correct shape for wire stripping and folding. Should not be using any knife on live wires, very few times that you can't deenergize the circuit to make a quick termination. Thanks for the content.
The biggest requirement for an electrician knife is a sheepsfoot blade tip IMO. An accidental stab in the wrong place will leave the insulation on other wires with a hole that you might miss.
Another nice thing about the kiridashi is if you have to take the pocket clip off it might fit in your fifth pocket which holds it in place as opposed to flopping about in your front pockets
One thing about the food prep with D2 question (appreciate the answer): The context was a pocket folding knife for EDC food prep. Sometimes I'm not able to clean my knife till later on.
Fantastic recommendation with the CS Kiridashi. The guy needs a good utility knife with a plastic clip to prevent fender scratching. True pro pick. Many people base their recommendations way too much on blade steel. I've got some budget knives from CS in 4034 and it is a very serviceable steel that will get plenty of work done. Also has a straight edge so easy to sharpen. Again, great pick.
I've been loving these FAQ's DCA, you've really re-ignited my childhood/teenage passion for blades in all their forms so I really hope you can squeeze my question/answer in your next FAQ: Metal Differences in terms of corrosion, retention, flexibilty, cost and value. I've been on a Russion AUS8 (Kizlyar - Huntsman, Navaga) knife tear recently and noticed how difficult its been to sharpen an edge on this steel. Once i got it, its kept incredibly well for a long peroid of use. Would you be able to break down some proprietary metal types, pros and cons - Melita-K for example uses 3 of Russian patented metals - specific to Russia. I know the Swiss and the Japanese (aus8) use their own type too. It would be great to have a better understanding why you like D2 so much along with Kabar's high carbon steel etc. in comparrison. Maybe discuss edge retention vs flexibility vs. sharpening time and effort vs. cost? Maybe include a breakdown of some of the best in class for each metal type? I can't be the only one out here a little fuzzy on which type to use when. Thanks DCA, keep up the great work. you really make things click for a laymen like me. All the best, Take Care.
Hey DCA and Knife Center c Crew, LOVE the content! Keep up the Great work!!! I am a Subaru Sr. Master tech in Baltimore area and have not scratched a car door since switching to Cold Steel Luzon medium. Plastic pocket clip, One hand opening, Pocket deployable, Affordable.... What's not to love?
Not a question, just want to share a funny story, I was hanging out with a couple of my younger sons, and I was trying to teach them to spydie flick my tenacious, My wife walks in and says “Jim what are you teaching your sons?” To which my son Samuel sons responds, “ what’s the big deal mom, David C Anderson does it!” We watch News knives of the week together religiously every Thursday. I love sharing my passion for knives with my kids and friends, hope you enjoyed.
Hi DCA - Can you speak to the recent clarification to the country of origin for Jake Hoback knives. It seems that the consensus was that these were "USA Made", and I recall them being listed as such on the knife center website. How should manufacturers clarify the origin of their knives going forward to ensure transparency in the industry?
We've reached out to Jake and have updated our site with the latest country of origin information that we got from him. The official definition of a "Made in the USA" label as set forth by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires that a product indicated as "Made in the USA" be entirely or virtually entirely made in the United States.
Hey DCA, Thanks for all of the knowledge. It helps me feel better when buying a knife over the internet where I can't hold it. I liked your information on bearings and washers, but KC does not offer that feature in the current filters. Will they add that feature soon or could you kindly recommend some knives for me? Looking for a few folding knives with washers in the pivot, m390 or CPM20cv steel, made in the usa, prefer under $1000 but open to higher price if it looks like drocket style-jupiter or kantana blades...cool but still useful and not too cumbersome. Please and thank you.
I have passed that suggestion along to our development team, but as of right now that information does not have a place in our database, so we would have to go through and update every single folder we have for sale - currently over 8000 on the website right now. I'm not saying it will never happen, but the likelihood anytime soon is slim -DCA
I have that chef knife you show at the end of the video and I love it thin blade stock and takes a really sharp edge Cuts Like a laser plus don't have to worry about messing it up since it's not expensive
Thomas, I use the same food prep strategy. Can get a little messy with meat and poultry, though. Bet you didn't know "chopped liver" was a wallpaper design. The heat is hard to take as well. Hot stove or oven + Hazmat suit = sauna.
I'm pretty sure that the Anglefinder dog tag is measuring the total included angle, which is twice the angle at which you hold the blade to the stone. So if you sharpen your ZT at 20° per side, your included angle is 40°. Compare the angles on that visually to the angles on a Spyderco Sharpmaker, say, and you'll see that the angles on the tool matches those on the Sharpmaker... the included angle.
Law enforcement will measure from the tip to the point where the scales start. This gives them the maximum length measured. If it measures beyond the jurisdiction limits, it is up to the individual to prove the correct length according to the law's exact wording. Some specify cutting length while other specify total length in regards to stabbing potential. (Always best to go at last a half inch under your stat's law.)
Ok... I would love for you to discuss various coatings and treatments to blades and components of knives... such as anodization, ceracoat, dlt and so on.. so I know that like a pocket clip coated from Benchmade I have had for 4 years or better holds up 100% better than a ceracoated clip from Buck... and the anodization on my 940 is far more durable than the ceracoat on a buck spitfire I have...(Custom unit that I got from Buck) but overall there seem to be huge gaps in the understanding of what's more durable... and such among different coatings that are available and how some companies do vs. others. Thanks and I hope that all is well!
Hey DCA! How about a KnifeAQ video on the types and pros and cons of the different materials used for knife handles? Wood, bone, antler, micarta, G10, stacked leather, stainless steel, FRN...
Dudes, I need to replace an 11” gerber machete that I’ve beat on for the last few years. Main use is de-limbing tree branches in my yard and light batoning of fire wood. Budget is around $50 but could be persuaded if it’ll last longer. Thanks!
i think a better suggestion for the electrician one would be like check out civivi small fixed blade or esee candiru. also boker will have tons of models
Hi DCA! Really enjoy your knife FAQs, good work man. I'd like to know what are the main purposes of each blade shape. For example, what are wharncliffes best for? Drop points? Clip points? Sheep's foots? Tantos? etc. Thanks!
I have a set of German Bergvogel stainless kitchen knives with black synthetic material handles. I've put them in the dishwasher for 24 years or so. They're as good as new. No doubt many knives shouldn't go in the dishwasher, but these can.
DCA!! Got a question for my favorite knife-ninja. Aftermarket bearings for folders are getting popular in the knife community, and tons of people swear that they make a huge difference. It has been my experience that 95%+ of the resistance comes from the detent and not the bearings. What is DCA's take on aftermarket bearings, are they effective?
Hey DCA and Thomas! I've seen a lot of folks online saying that the convex grind is the best for all purpose bushcraft and hunting knives. I've been into bushcraft for some time now and have several scandi-grind blades, but I want something that can do the woodworking and hunting tasks all in one. Curious on your thoughts and if you had any blade recommendations!
Hello DCA, love the videos and your very informative manner of delivery, my question is what’s the deal with proposition 65 warnings on knife boxes, do all knives have that warning? Should I worry about my knife giving me cancer or causing reproductive harm? I tend to see “scary warnings” like that and overthink, keep up the great work.
Im glad I live in Kentucky where our blade length laws were abolished years ago. I hope that every state can eventually get to that point. It just puts a headache on consumers and most LEOs anyway.
Might be wrong place to put this but I know you check these. In some video down the line would you break out some of the small pen knives? I've always loved them for some reason. Brands don't matter but some at $100 and under would be appreciated. Been a regular watcher for a good while now. Thanks for the great content
DCA, great show. I am slowly graduating up through the art and science of bushcraft. Started with a Mora basic 511, to a Mora HD companion, and looking for an affordable full tang. Was looking at a Gerber Principle and did not find a knife center video on the principle other than shot show 2020. Would appreciate your thoughts on the principle and other bushcraft knives between $50.00 and $80.00. I look forward to the day love I can afford a Nordsmith.
I love my AD10, but it changed the way that I buy knives, as it isn't made in the US, and it just affects my enjoyment every time I pull it out to fidget with it. What US made knives in that ($200ish) price range would you suggest that I check out to get in the ballpark of this excellent design? Thank you from Skagit County, WA
As an electrician I use A PM 2 and para 3, I also have a sog kiku XR, I don't use my knives for anything live/ powered up, but I would like a more premium hawk bill Style knife For cutting the rubber coating off of So cord
If you’re learning to sharpen freehand, get a couple Ganzo knives off of Amazon. They are pretty decent knives for the money and you won’t hate yourself if you mess them up when you’re learning to sharpen.
Not legal advice but, as DCA says, the blade length that matters is what your local police measure. Interesting in NSW (Australia) where I live, blade length is irrelevant. Our laws list 8 x designs of prohibited knives (inc. autos/assisted, butterfly knives & zombie knives - yes all those green zombie knives are illegal here). Other than that, the law says you must have a 'lawful excuse' for carrying a knife and the law lists about 6 or so 'lawful excuses' - inc. for work, lawful recreation, knife exhibitions, religious purposes & more. Another informative vid - thanks. Please abide by you local laws - we don't need more laws to restrict knives!!
Hey DCA, I Just recently started practicing Kali Martial Arts. I am wondering if you had any good karambit and bolo(machete) combinations that would look cool together and preform well as well. Thank you so much for any help!
Hey DCA and crew. I am loving the latest addition to my kitchen: a Shun Premier 7" Santoku. But when I choke up on it in a pinch grip, the squared off spine digs into my finger. By the time I'm done chopping vegetables for soup, my finger is dad. Can you point me in the direction of a good, high end Japanese knife brand that is putting a crown on their spine? If not, is there a reason nobody is doing this on kitchen knives? I wouldn't do it on this beautiful Damascus steel, but is there anything I could do to soften the edges on the spines of my German and French knives?
Fine sandpaper is a quick fix and shouldn't ruin the aesthetics or premium feel on the knife. I think most of Global's spines are crowned, but I would have to check -DCA
Hey, DCA. Are you a fidgeter? I’m asking because you’ve said you mainly carry cross-bar locks and have only broken an omega spring once. I’ve broken two sets in two years, a bugout and a Hogue Ritter. And yes…I am a fidgeter.
9:21 That's why I measure my blades as the cops do it, from tip to handle. 😅 (At least where I live.) Just gotta pray the seller also measures from tip to handle. 😄
Hi DCA! I need your help! I'd like to ask for your recommendation regarding a folder/fixed blade combo. A folder for edc(foodprep, pack opening) preferabely with washers and no spring parts. A fix for the outdoors( camp stuff, bushcraft) with a scandi grind I need them to be from the same brand or have a similar design language. The duo could max out at 250$ but the cheaper options could work too. Thanks
Hey I like the show. Keep up the good work. Can you please make a good recommendation for scales for the Spyderco Mule. I just got a magnacut Mule and want some good hard use scales. Maybe G-10 or micarta, but I’m not too picky.
I’m a Benchmade owner and I love their knives but my question is this. Why do you think Benchmade continues to stick with S30V as their default steel rather than “upgrading” to something such as S35VN. I know the butterfly has it’s cost but you can buy a very nice S35VN knife for the price of an S30V Benchmade. I’m open for opinions from other viewers for sure.
I imagine its a supply/machining issue more than anything else. Right now they're set up to use one type of steel and the upgrade might cause them to also change suppliers and or equipment and that cost may not be worth the modest upgrade in material that would be offered to the customer.
Hey Mr. Anderson so this week I purchased a full sized benchmade Adamas and a Zero tolerance 0562 TI. My question is between the two knives I am well over $500, should I have opted to save my money and get one $500 plus “grail” knife or was I right and getting two heavy duty tanks that I will have and use forever? First time question long time subscriber!! Love the content 🗡🗡
In case, DCA doesn't respond, save for the grail. I looked at the Adamas a long time and finally quit when they became even more expensive. I picked up my AD -10 NIB for $150. I believe it's a better knife. That's how I look at it things. Some will agree with me, others won't.
22:02 For goodness' sake DCA! He's an electrician and not a Marine! 😅 Sorry, I had to. ♥ 23:42 Maybe a simple Knipex Kabelmesser would suffice? Morakniv also makes those, the one I am thinking of is literally called "Electrician’s Knife". 😁 Maybe that helps? 😱
DCA. I recently got the worksharp precision adjust and seen advertised lapping film for it, do you have any input or experience with lapping film? The sharpener does a good mirror like edge, but does the lapping film really make that much of a difference? Thanks for the input and value you guys bring to the community!
16:41 Maybe just get a longer blade, if your laws allow it. 😱 17:12 That! That is a sharpening choil I can live with! I hate it when the choil gets caught up in anything. It happened to me so much! 😭 Too bad these actually good "sharpening choils" are so rare! 😭
Here’s a bit of a rattlesnake, what kind of knife and steel would you use for carving or cutting into ice. Curious because it would need to be a tough steel but also corrosion resistant for long term use. Love to hear your thoughts on this! Great content as always.
11:06 You wrap the handle with paracord, and then measure from tip to paracord. 😁 11:39 Now you're screwed! 😂 Well, not really, the paracord would have stopped around that area anyways. ☺ Great illustration though! 👌 12:24 Oh noe! He's onto me! 😱
Are there any titanium frame lock flipper knives on phosphor bronze washers for under 200 dollars? Preferably in a tougher steel but don't want to narrow it too far.
Hey dca can you do a video on best budget fidget knives? Im a big fidgeter while i watch knife center video's. I normally use my bug out but thats my most expensive knife and i kinda feel bad fidgeting with it constantly. Thanks and btw your awesome love your videos
Hey DCA, being a fixed blade guy such as you are; what folders out there do you think would be good as a fixed blade also? I think of Cold Steel SRK fixed and the SR1 is a folder version, Spyderco Yojimbo 2 is a folder and the Ronin 2 is a fixed version. What say you? P.S. keep up the good work
Washers vs ball bearing pivots. Maybe I’ve missed it on the website, but I don’t see a way to search for folders that use washers instead of ball bearings. Can you recommend some good "$50 D2 flippers" that use washers?
Hey! I am from Europe, and bought a Civivi Imperium online. Tried to take it apart to clean it, and because of the pivot counterpart have moved (as far as I know the counter part is stays in place with a small notch) I striped the pivot screw, can you help me what can I do to take it apart, and to replace the pivot screw?
The laws define a gravity knife as a knife that can be opened with centrifugal force... But I own very few knives that I cannot wrist flick open so are they gravity knives?
I have two questions : is vg 10 a good steel now? And for a tactical edc folder what is the best choice cold steel black talón 2 or spyderco matriarch 2?
Besides the oversized sharpening/finger choils ruining the satisfaction of a clean cut when open canvas/plastic sacks, fibrous materials can get hung up on thumb studs as well.
man, I love Thomas! he's got that dry sense of humor and is your like sidekick. I always crack-up laughing when he does the weeds! You 2 make an awesome team! Keep up the great work! I always enjoy watching your videos.
Thomas is doing weed during the video?
When using a kitchen knife don't wait to clean, once you are done your cutting task wipe immediately. Easy peasy no dried on material!
I clean my knife before I do my cutting, that way I don’t have to do it afterwards.. Work smart, not hard🤯
Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner!
Brilliant!
@@optimuscrime608 You’re still cleaning it the same number of times.
(Re: washing kitchen knives): I scrub my kitchen knives with a sponge, even with the “non-scratching” scrubber sometimes. I use two different methods. One is just like DCA’s recommendation of putting it on a flat surface and scrub. The second is to hold the knife handle firmly in one hand, and with your other hand, scrub both sides by grabbing the knife with the sponge FROM THE SPINE SIDE, like a clam shell! And as advised, ALWAYS brush or scrub away from the edge and not into it.
Thanks for the magic marker tip. Brilliant in it's simplicity.
I've been doing that for a while. I don't even bother with angels or recording settings.
I totally agree with your recommendation of the Manix2 LW for opening plastic “canvas” bags. If you use the forward finger choil, the Manix2 will not get tangled up in the fibers as you rip through the bag. I use mine frequently to cut through feed bags and don’t have the tangling problem. And don’t even bother taking the pocket clip off. It takes up no extra room in your pocket anyway. I love everything about my Manix2, from the bidirectional handle texture to the ultra slicey blade.
Hey DCA, can you help distinguish the most popular steel types by their actual usefulness (not just their metallurgic properties that we're all familiar with)? Would love to see you organize some groups of the popular steels by their real-world functions, and help us visualize these with a perfect steel/function/design example. (Bonus points for pointing out which steels are essentially identical) Thanks!
Thanks for answering my question. 👍 I did mean car detailing. This why I ask you, because I've never seen the Cold Steel Kiradashi.
P.s. it's just Littlecountry. No, x's.
P.p.s. I was referring to the type of sacks Thomas said. Thanks Thomas.
Thank you for asking the question! I wasn’t aware anyone was making a non-metal clip now! I’m nervous I’ll scratch my car when I’m the garage (tight fit).
Perfect timing for this video. Wustholf says their knives are sharpened to 14 degrees. I follow that… sort of…paring knives are 14, utility are 15 and Chef’s are 16. I received my Worksharp about a month ago and am experimenting. Doing most of my pocket/fixed blade knives to 20 degrees like you said. 1/4” thick blades may be 25 degrees .
I bought that Worksharp model, and it is the best thing I have found to put hair shaving sharpness on my knives. Every one now has near scalpel sharp edges.
I use 22 degrees for my folders, 17 degrees for the wife's kitchen knives, and 30 degrees for the big field knives that have 1/4" blade steel. These work for me, with only a couple that wound up getting a slight re=profile from it.
I think KnifeCenter does a better job publishing specs than all the other major distributors. Just one more reason I love the site.
Imho the maximum penetration depth of the blade is the best method to define its length.
Re: best electricians knife…I prefer a folder, but the blade shape i always choose is a tanto with a straight edge. Regardless of what trade you’re in, imho it is the most versatile. It gives you two cutting edges and two points for different uses. The ability to scrape and chisel with the leading edge (cleaning mortises, scraping stickers off, etc.) is very useful. For electrical work in particular, i use the second point to nick the romex sheathing, after i peel it back off the conductors, i can reach into the jbox, and cut it cleanly at the base. The straight edges also allow you to always “know” where your edge is, if that makes sense. I haven’t owned either of these so can’t speak for their quality, but the crkt m-16 and bestech explorer would be what i would get. My favorite knife has a chisel grind, but unfortunately isn’t sold at knife center.
I'd say a leatherman surge. It's not just a knife but it's got so much useful utility for the job
Hi David (and Seth),
My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question:
I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features:
1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard")
2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong)
3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it...
4) About 3" or more Blade Length
5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly.
6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip
7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each.
Thanks so much!
24:24 You put them into hot dishwater (with dish soap), let them soak a bit, then you can carefully scrub away with a sponge.
I use a 2 sided sponge. I bend the sponge, so I kinda clam the blade with the sponge between my thumb and some of the other fingers. Then I scrub back and forth, watching the edge closely.
The soaking part in hot dish-water helps the most, then you don't have to scrub hard at all. Let the crusted stuff get soaked up well, and Bob's your uncle. 🙂
Alternatively you can also "strop" your knife on your soaked up sponge. (Soaked up with dish-soap-water of course.)
Question (or clarification) The "A" in A2 tool steel indicates Air hardening. The "W" in W2 tool steel indicates water quench, the "O" in O2 tool steel indicates oil quench. What does the "D" in D2 tool steel indicate?
Google says deep referring to hardness. High chromium high carbon. Also said die type steel.
@@norrisfong6445 thanks
Thanks to you. I never thought about this before and learned something.
Always use a marker when sharpening! Keep a spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol to remove any leftover marks
always love the banter between thomas and dca .. it's so much fun to listen to.
Hello DCA, Setherson, and guy behind the camera. I'd like to start by saying that I really don't like a combo edge, but I recently realized that a combo edge would benefit me greatly at work. I know it's not hard to find a good combo edge knife, BUT, what I need is for serrations to be in front, plain edge in back. Would be a huge bonus if the serrations were not only up front, but had some belly to the as well. Thank you in advance
Victorinox makes a One-Hand Trekker that may work for you.
Bingo Eric! -DCA
Thank you for this one, was about to research the edge angle question
Hey DCA, Loving all these segments. Very informative. Answering the question about cleaning Japanese cooking knives, I use a knife cleaning brush, mine is from Joseph Joseph. They are safe and effective. And not expensive, an added bonus.
Electrician/Knife Guy here!
My current work EDC is a PM2 or an AD20.5, depending on how I'm feeling. I also carried a benchmade mini freek for awhile and liked it.
For electrical work, you tend to want something in the Wharncliffe/sheepsfoot territory, and a lot of folks even specifically carry a Hawksbill knife.
I haven't seen a quality fixed blade that really screams "electrical work" to me, although I've heard the Mora Robust is a popular choice in Europe?
The whole blade length issue makes me glad that I live in Oregon. In my State there is no such thing as an illegal knife. You can own and carry any knife you like.. The only restriction is that only "pocket knives" may be carried concealed. While there is no clear definition of what a "pocket knife" is, I can tell you that back in the 80's a judge here ruled that the classic switchblade IS a pocket knife and can be carried concealed, so there ya go. Just to be safe I make sure my Benchmade 581 is always clearly visible while clipped in my pocket, but really I'm not to worried about it.
Oregon here also. I have a Bradford guardian 3.5 are we not allowed to carry that in a sheath concealed then?
@@oregonjw9546 No, deff not. Only pocket knives can be carried concealed. Fixed blades have to be visible.
@@Vares65 thanks for information. God bless you!
As an electrician myself, I'm looking forward to purchasing the new microtech Lineman tool. Correct shape for wire stripping and folding. Should not be using any knife on live wires, very few times that you can't deenergize the circuit to make a quick termination. Thanks for the content.
The biggest requirement for an electrician knife is a sheepsfoot blade tip IMO. An accidental stab in the wrong place will leave the insulation on other wires with a hole that you might miss.
Nice to see a Finnish product here, that Dog Tag Anglefinder is made of titanium :)
Another nice thing about the kiridashi is if you have to take the pocket clip off it might fit in your fifth pocket which holds it in place as opposed to flopping about in your front pockets
I've been sharpening my EDC knives at 17° for awhile now (thanks Pete from Cedric & Aida). I've found it to be a good compromise between 20° and 15°.
The AC angle finder is Ti and the flat side is great for reconditioning strops as well, if you gotta scrap off the old compound.
One thing about the food prep with D2 question (appreciate the answer): The context was a pocket folding knife for EDC food prep. Sometimes I'm not able to clean my knife till later on.
Fantastic recommendation with the CS Kiridashi. The guy needs a good utility knife with a plastic clip to prevent fender scratching. True pro pick. Many people base their recommendations way too much on blade steel. I've got some budget knives from CS in 4034 and it is a very serviceable steel that will get plenty of work done. Also has a straight edge so easy to sharpen. Again, great pick.
I've been loving these FAQ's DCA, you've really re-ignited my childhood/teenage passion for blades in all their forms so I really hope you can squeeze my question/answer in your next FAQ: Metal Differences in terms of corrosion, retention, flexibilty, cost and value. I've been on a Russion AUS8 (Kizlyar - Huntsman, Navaga) knife tear recently and noticed how difficult its been to sharpen an edge on this steel. Once i got it, its kept incredibly well for a long peroid of use. Would you be able to break down some proprietary metal types, pros and cons - Melita-K for example uses 3 of Russian patented metals - specific to Russia. I know the Swiss and the Japanese (aus8) use their own type too. It would be great to have a better understanding why you like D2 so much along with Kabar's high carbon steel etc. in comparrison. Maybe discuss edge retention vs flexibility vs. sharpening time and effort vs. cost? Maybe include a breakdown of some of the best in class for each metal type? I can't be the only one out here a little fuzzy on which type to use when. Thanks DCA, keep up the great work. you really make things click for a laymen like me. All the best, Take Care.
Hey DCA and Knife Center c
Crew, LOVE the content! Keep up the Great work!!! I am a Subaru Sr. Master tech in Baltimore area and have not scratched a car door since switching to Cold Steel Luzon medium. Plastic pocket clip, One hand opening, Pocket deployable, Affordable.... What's not to love?
Not a question, just want to share a funny story, I was hanging out with a couple of my younger sons, and I was trying to teach them to spydie flick my tenacious, My wife walks in and says “Jim what are you teaching your sons?” To which my son Samuel sons responds, “ what’s the big deal mom, David C Anderson does it!” We watch News knives of the week together religiously every Thursday. I love sharing my passion for knives with my kids and friends, hope you enjoyed.
These videos have become the highlight of my youtube watching week. Thanks DCA keep it up.
Hi DCA - Can you speak to the recent clarification to the country of origin for Jake Hoback knives. It seems that the consensus was that these were "USA Made", and I recall them being listed as such on the knife center website. How should manufacturers clarify the origin of their knives going forward to ensure transparency in the industry?
We've reached out to Jake and have updated our site with the latest country of origin information that we got from him. The official definition of a "Made in the USA" label as set forth by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires that a product indicated as "Made in the USA" be entirely or virtually entirely made in the United States.
Hey DCA,
Thanks for all of the knowledge. It helps me feel better when buying a knife over the internet where I can't hold it.
I liked your information on bearings and washers, but KC does not offer that feature in the current filters. Will they add that feature soon or could you kindly recommend some knives for me?
Looking for a few folding knives with washers in the pivot, m390 or CPM20cv steel, made in the usa, prefer under $1000 but open to higher price if it looks like drocket style-jupiter or kantana blades...cool but still useful and not too cumbersome.
Please and thank you.
I have passed that suggestion along to our development team, but as of right now that information does not have a place in our database, so we would have to go through and update every single folder we have for sale - currently over 8000 on the website right now. I'm not saying it will never happen, but the likelihood anytime soon is slim -DCA
When will great EDC knives start coming in Magnacut? I would love to see some fidget friendly folders with 3.5-4" inch blades in Magnacut.
I have that chef knife you show at the end of the video and I love it thin blade stock and takes a really sharp edge Cuts Like a laser plus don't have to worry about messing it up since it's not expensive
Thomas, I use the same food prep strategy. Can get a little messy with meat and poultry, though. Bet you didn't know "chopped liver" was a wallpaper design. The heat is hard to take as well. Hot stove or oven + Hazmat suit = sauna.
I'm pretty sure that the Anglefinder dog tag is measuring the total included angle, which is twice the angle at which you hold the blade to the stone. So if you sharpen your ZT at 20° per side, your included angle is 40°. Compare the angles on that visually to the angles on a Spyderco Sharpmaker, say, and you'll see that the angles on the tool matches those on the Sharpmaker... the included angle.
What are DCA’s favorite blade shapes? There was one that I had never seen before and can’t remember the name of
Nessmuk
Reverse Tanto or cheese knife
Law enforcement will measure from the tip to the point where the scales start. This gives them the maximum length measured. If it measures beyond the jurisdiction limits, it is up to the individual to prove the correct length according to the law's exact wording. Some specify cutting length while other specify total length in regards to stabbing potential. (Always best to go at last a half inch under your stat's law.)
The cold steel kiridashi is a fantastic work knife.
Ok... I would love for you to discuss various coatings and treatments to blades and components of knives... such as anodization, ceracoat, dlt and so on.. so I know that like a pocket clip coated from Benchmade I have had for 4 years or better holds up 100% better than a ceracoated clip from Buck... and the anodization on my 940 is far more durable than the ceracoat on a buck spitfire I have...(Custom unit that I got from Buck) but overall there seem to be huge gaps in the understanding of what's more durable... and such among different coatings that are available and how some companies do vs. others. Thanks and I hope that all is well!
Hey DCA! How about a KnifeAQ video on the types and pros and cons of the different materials used for knife handles? Wood, bone, antler, micarta, G10, stacked leather, stainless steel, FRN...
Dudes,
I need to replace an 11” gerber machete that I’ve beat on for the last few years. Main use is de-limbing tree branches in my yard and light batoning of fire wood. Budget is around $50 but could be persuaded if it’ll last longer.
Thanks!
One of these Ken Onion designs from CRKT would be great: kcoti.com/3vR9pRh
i think a better suggestion for the electrician one would be like check out civivi small fixed blade or esee candiru. also boker will have tons of models
I almost always change the angle before I use a knife. Factory equipment has a diffrent texture than what we can duplicate with a stone
Hi DCA! Really enjoy your knife FAQs, good work man. I'd like to know what are the main purposes of each blade shape. For example, what are wharncliffes best for? Drop points? Clip points? Sheep's foots? Tantos? etc. Thanks!
I have a set of German Bergvogel stainless kitchen knives with black synthetic material handles. I've put them in the dishwasher for 24 years or so. They're as good as new. No doubt many knives shouldn't go in the dishwasher, but these can.
DCA!! Got a question for my favorite knife-ninja. Aftermarket bearings for folders are getting popular in the knife community, and tons of people swear that they make a huge difference. It has been my experience that 95%+ of the resistance comes from the detent and not the bearings. What is DCA's take on aftermarket bearings, are they effective?
That houseboat made out of Pakka sounds exquisite!
Good explanations of very tricky questions/concerns
Hey DCA and Thomas! I've seen a lot of folks online saying that the convex grind is the best for all purpose bushcraft and hunting knives. I've been into bushcraft for some time now and have several scandi-grind blades, but I want something that can do the woodworking and hunting tasks all in one. Curious on your thoughts and if you had any blade recommendations!
Hello DCA, love the videos and your very informative manner of delivery, my question is what’s the deal with proposition 65 warnings on knife boxes, do all knives have that warning? Should I worry about my knife giving me cancer or causing reproductive harm? I tend to see “scary warnings” like that and overthink, keep up the great work.
Those are only for Californians who, by enlarge, err knot two Brite. If you don't live there, they will not cause you any ill health.
Would you recommend getting the upgrade for the precision adjust sharpener
Im glad I live in Kentucky where our blade length laws were abolished years ago. I hope that every state can eventually get to that point. It just puts a headache on consumers and most LEOs anyway.
Did you know I just bought a work sharp elite this week…too bad I just finished sharpening my last knife before I checked TH-cam 😂
Might be wrong place to put this but I know you check these. In some video down the line would you break out some of the small pen knives? I've always loved them for some reason. Brands don't matter but some at $100 and under would be appreciated. Been a regular watcher for a good while now. Thanks for the great content
Hi DCA, would it be a good idea to protect the wooden handle on a kitchen knife and if yes, what would be the best way to protect the handle. Thanks!
DCA, great show. I am slowly graduating up through the art and science of bushcraft. Started with a Mora basic 511, to a Mora HD companion, and looking for an affordable full tang. Was looking at a Gerber Principle and did not find a knife center video on the principle other than shot show 2020. Would appreciate your thoughts on the principle and other bushcraft knives between $50.00 and $80.00. I look forward to the day love I can afford a Nordsmith.
7:52 Usually it is from tip to handle. It basically is all the blade that sticks out of the handle.
8:22 I think this ☝ answer is a good one. 🧐
I love my AD10, but it changed the way that I buy knives, as it isn't made in the US, and it just affects my enjoyment every time I pull it out to fidget with it. What US made knives in that ($200ish) price range would you suggest that I check out to get in the ballpark of this excellent design? Thank you from Skagit County, WA
Thank you for great information. What is your recommended (preferably low cost) tool to maintain a true scandi grind (like Morakniv, for instance)?
As an electrician I use A PM 2 and para 3, I also have a sog kiku XR, I don't use my knives for anything live/ powered up, but I would like a more premium hawk bill Style knife For cutting the rubber coating off of So cord
If you’re learning to sharpen freehand, get a couple Ganzo knives off of Amazon. They are pretty decent knives for the money and you won’t hate yourself if you mess them up when you’re learning to sharpen.
Not legal advice but, as DCA says, the blade length that matters is what your local police measure. Interesting in NSW (Australia) where I live, blade length is irrelevant. Our laws list 8 x designs of prohibited knives (inc. autos/assisted, butterfly knives & zombie knives - yes all those green zombie knives are illegal here). Other than that, the law says you must have a 'lawful excuse' for carrying a knife and the law lists about 6 or so 'lawful excuses' - inc. for work, lawful recreation, knife exhibitions, religious purposes & more. Another informative vid - thanks. Please abide by you local laws - we don't need more laws to restrict knives!!
Hey DCA, I Just recently started practicing Kali Martial Arts. I am wondering if you had any good karambit and bolo(machete) combinations that would look cool together and preform well as well. Thank you so much for any help!
Sounds like you've really tapped into the quintessential part of Kali, looking cool.
@@jjrossitee Form over function. 👌🏽😆😆😆😆
The Rat 3 go bar or utility would probably be good for an electrician. Good for prying and skinning wire.
Hi DCA, I was wandering if the coating on the spyderco tenacious is food safe? What about other coatings spyderco uses? Coatings in general?
Hey DCA and crew. I am loving the latest addition to my kitchen: a Shun Premier 7" Santoku. But when I choke up on it in a pinch grip, the squared off spine digs into my finger. By the time I'm done chopping vegetables for soup, my finger is dad. Can you point me in the direction of a good, high end Japanese knife brand that is putting a crown on their spine? If not, is there a reason nobody is doing this on kitchen knives? I wouldn't do it on this beautiful Damascus steel, but is there anything I could do to soften the edges on the spines of my German and French knives?
Waterstones or the ceramic rods I of the SSM contr to mind.
Fine sandpaper is a quick fix and shouldn't ruin the aesthetics or premium feel on the knife. I think most of Global's spines are crowned, but I would have to check -DCA
Hey, DCA. Are you a fidgeter? I’m asking because you’ve said you mainly carry cross-bar locks and have only broken an omega spring once. I’ve broken two sets in two years, a bugout and a Hogue Ritter. And yes…I am a fidgeter.
9:21 That's why I measure my blades as the cops do it, from tip to handle. 😅 (At least where I live.)
Just gotta pray the seller also measures from tip to handle. 😄
Hi DCA! I need your help! I'd like to ask for your recommendation regarding a folder/fixed blade combo.
A folder for edc(foodprep, pack opening) preferabely with washers and no spring parts.
A fix for the outdoors( camp stuff, bushcraft) with a scandi grind
I need them to be from the same brand or have a similar design language. The duo could max out at 250$ but the cheaper options could work too.
Thanks
What is a good scout Cary knife for camping purpose? I like the look of the fixed elementum but didn't know what other options there are.
Hey I like the show. Keep up the good work. Can you please make a good recommendation for scales for the Spyderco Mule. I just got a magnacut Mule and want some good hard use scales. Maybe G-10 or micarta, but I’m not too picky.
I’m a Benchmade owner and I love their knives but my question is this. Why do you think Benchmade continues to stick with S30V as their default steel rather than “upgrading” to something such as S35VN. I know the butterfly has it’s cost but you can buy a very nice S35VN knife for the price of an S30V Benchmade.
I’m open for opinions from other viewers for sure.
I imagine its a supply/machining issue more than anything else. Right now they're set up to use one type of steel and the upgrade might cause them to also change suppliers and or equipment and that cost may not be worth the modest upgrade in material that would be offered to the customer.
Hey DCA seriously considering tops sparrow hawk or ferret. Was wondering if you could do a review on either one or both thank you.
How about a manufacturer spotlight for lesser known yet excellent quality brands? Just a thought.
Hey Mr. Anderson so this week I purchased a full sized benchmade Adamas and a Zero tolerance 0562 TI. My question is between the two knives I am well over $500, should I have opted to save my money and get one $500 plus “grail” knife or was I right and getting two heavy duty tanks that I will have and use forever? First time question long time subscriber!! Love the content 🗡🗡
In case, DCA doesn't respond, save for the grail. I looked at the Adamas a long time and finally quit when they became even more expensive. I picked up my AD -10 NIB for $150. I believe it's a better knife. That's how I look at it things. Some will agree with me, others won't.
@@jayr526 he did respond but not answer lol
22:02 For goodness' sake DCA! He's an electrician and not a Marine! 😅
Sorry, I had to. ♥
23:42 Maybe a simple Knipex Kabelmesser would suffice? Morakniv also makes those, the one I am thinking of is literally called "Electrician’s Knife". 😁
Maybe that helps? 😱
I just realized what the outro music reminds me of, it sounds like the older episodes of Good Eats.
The American Knife and Tool Institute advocacy group defines blade length as the tip of the blade to the foremost point of the handle.
DCA. I recently got the worksharp precision adjust and seen advertised lapping film for it, do you have any input or experience with lapping film? The sharpener does a good mirror like edge, but does the lapping film really make that much of a difference? Thanks for the input and value you guys bring to the community!
16:41 Maybe just get a longer blade, if your laws allow it. 😱
17:12 That! That is a sharpening choil I can live with! I hate it when the choil gets caught up in anything. It happened to me so much! 😭
Too bad these actually good "sharpening choils" are so rare! 😭
Here’s a bit of a rattlesnake, what kind of knife and steel would you use for carving or cutting into ice. Curious because it would need to be a tough steel but also corrosion resistant for long term use. Love to hear your thoughts on this! Great content as always.
I’ve not done it myself but once watched an ice carving artist at work. He used a chainsaw, a wood chisel and a propane torch of all things.
Very helpful and informative video. 🤘
Rusty steel in food prep may enrich the food with iron ("iron fortified").
That was one benefit of cooking with a cast iron pan.
11:06 You wrap the handle with paracord, and then measure from tip to paracord. 😁
11:39 Now you're screwed! 😂 Well, not really, the paracord would have stopped around that area anyways. ☺
Great illustration though! 👌
12:24 Oh noe! He's onto me! 😱
I’m getting that angle gauge. I’ll phone it in. Nice.
If you could upgrade any budget knife to premium materials, what would it be?
Are there any titanium frame lock flipper knives on phosphor bronze washers for under 200 dollars? Preferably in a tougher steel but don't want to narrow it too far.
Hey dca can you do a video on best budget fidget knives? Im a big fidgeter while i watch knife center video's. I normally use my bug out but thats my most expensive knife and i kinda feel bad fidgeting with it constantly. Thanks and btw your awesome love your videos
Hey DCA, what's a combat/tactical fixed blade knife that would fit well for someone with smaller hands
How about the edge on a Bowie knife what is the angle that you should have thank you very much
Hey DCA, being a fixed blade guy such as you are; what folders out there do you think would be good as a fixed blade also? I think of Cold Steel SRK fixed and the SR1 is a folder version, Spyderco Yojimbo 2 is a folder and the Ronin 2 is a fixed version. What say you?
P.S. keep up the good work
Washers vs ball bearing pivots. Maybe I’ve missed it on the website, but I don’t see a way to search for folders that use washers instead of ball bearings. Can you recommend some good "$50 D2 flippers" that use washers?
Steel Will
Hey! I am from Europe, and bought a Civivi Imperium online. Tried to take it apart to clean it, and because of the pivot counterpart have moved (as far as I know the counter part is stays in place with a small notch) I striped the pivot screw, can you help me what can I do to take it apart, and to replace the pivot screw?
The laws define a gravity knife as a knife that can be opened with centrifugal force... But I own very few knives that I cannot wrist flick open so are they gravity knives?
If you are in the US you need to check the laws of each individual state.
I have two questions : is vg 10 a good steel now? And for a tactical edc folder what is the best choice cold steel black talón 2 or spyderco matriarch 2?
Besides the oversized sharpening/finger choils ruining the satisfaction of a clean cut when open canvas/plastic sacks, fibrous materials can get hung up on thumb studs as well.