Another cracking video! 😁 A video on batch painting would be awesome and your approaches to painting many (MANY) models but maintaining the fluid/organic approach you showcase so well 👍🏻 The thing that makes your videos so accessible is that you totally embrace that we're all human and make mistakes when experimenting. Very refreshing!
Shows what is possible with carefully selected additions without overdoing it. I tend to make painting a mini overly complicated and forget that a) going up a level can be done any time later - and especially b) it is not necessary to go all the levels at once.
@@ArtisOpus Yeah, painting armies can also be rewarding, as the progress is much more visible. Because 5-10ish finished minis on painted(!) bases will look good anyway* it is easier to get to a point where you are satisfied enough to stop at a certain stage. I started keeping my work-in-progress minis next to their completed fellows and that helped coming to that point. *at least most of the time.
Epic video, as usual. There's something magic about the way Byron tackles a mini and explains it so even goons like me can understand and apply the techniques. Astonishingly good content!
Just want to compliment on a great video 🙂 This is really the best "Slapchop +" or "How to grow as a painter after slapchop" out there . This could also be the real "Slapchop 2.0".
My dude 🥰 high praise, thank you so much! We have some more stuff planned for the future which is basically half way between this and other techniques, it should add another level of options :). Thanks for your kind words!
Thank you, lord Byron your videos and Dry brush set have taken me from nervous painting to now having people look at my models and they don't understand how I have painted the model like I'm some sort of paint wizard.
Love all your videos, my painting has improved considerably since I've been following your tutorials. One thing I could suggest that I think would push this model to the next level is some fluorescent paint on the gems & feathers, perhaps dotting with a white reflection on gems. Plus a lush base bursting with ferns and flowers.
I absolutely agree buddy, we stuck to slapchop but they definitely lack a little saturation and depth (apart from a couple that worked nicely like the one on his chin jewellery :D
I'd love to see a video on how you'd approach doing natural patterns and markings on a model, things like stripes, spots and other things to help give creatures a more organic/natural feel. Amazing content as always!
Great video and thank you for doing this! I have been painting for years but you can always keep learning and I picked up a few things that I may have known but have forgotten or never knew! Thanks again!
Dude I love your channel. I am also a big fan of drybrushing instead of edge highlighting, and your style meshes very well with mine. I am picking up great tips from you, thank you.
Our pleasure, my man! We have an interesting one coming for you, both on how to and how not to edge-highlight, keep your eyes peeled for the blood angels backpack :). Thanks for your kind words!
Loving your videos so useful full of info for someone getting back into the hobby and realising how painting moved since i was last in the hobby. Ill be watching alot more to get those painting tips for when i start painting my models
I’ve been trying to follow along with your techniques for a few of my recent models, to various levels of success…. But I do have a request/suggestion; I primarily paint my minis for DnD/ board games, so all my models come pre-assembled (maybe 1 piece off if it’s a larger model)…. Could you demonstrate how you’d incorporate your drybrush techniques (or really any techniques that aren’t “shove your brush in and hope it comes out) on a model that you cannot get clear access to some of the undersides? (In particular, I’m currently working on a demon with his wings wrapped around his body, but far enough that you can see, but not get in to control)
@@ArtisOpus so excited!!! With Shatterpoints release I have tons of characters, terrain and more too! Not to account for over 100 unpainted Orks from AoS 😂 Your videos, brushes, everything *chefs kiss*
@@lordcuddlebear Thanks! You'll be slaying the grey in no time man! I was meant to get some early shatterpoint but something got lost in translation. So not sure if it will feature on the channel. I like the terrain a lot :)
@@ArtisOpus that’s unfortunate! I can’t wait to use your videos as lessons. Just watched like 8 of them last night! Hopefully you get to get some pieces/something if even for personal use in some degree!
Some interesting concepts here. I really like to put all my effort into my models but I decided when I start tyranids in 10th I was going to do most of them slap chop. This seems like a happy medium.
Absolutely man! I can really recommend our '10 rules' video we referenced here, the concepts aren't just or single minis, it's helpful for any minis, just got to hold your goal in mind (e.g. finishing an army/force). My big thing is knowing my future (bored) self, even if I am enjoying it now, if things take too long I might not be later 😅
This video came out at the perfect time, as I’m about to start repainting a model that I was disappointed in the initial first attempt (which I did not implement some slapchop in but now will be, for the extra textured parts)
I have a few things I wanted to talk about. 1.) maybe it was just me (most likely me) but could you to over why you used the washes on pieces like the gems, weapons, and armor? 2.) your videos are just so peaceful to sit back and watch. You are like the miniature painter version of Bob Ross :)
Hey cody, good question - I only did here because I was holding to 'slapchop' style, I would have based them a really bright colour before washing at least if I was doing this for myself :). Thanks, I will absolutely take Bob Ross, any time!
very nice dino! look fiercesome. I see you mixing paint and I sometimes have some trouble. all acrylics of course, but 1rst I thought it was because I mix some diff. brands but even if i do the same brand , the mix is not going as well as I wanted, vallejo or army painter... is it because I mix , for army painter `MID` (Leather brown) and `HIGH` (matt white) ?
It shouldn't matter, as long as they are high quality brands you shouldn't have any problems :). I don't have issues with the brands I use. Some brands are matte and some are satin (e.g. S75///GW), this can give things a different finish. Cheers buddy!
Really good video as usual. Those small tweaks and additions makes a really big difference. A video with focus on smaller parts and different ways to tackle them would be a really good one.
You're not the first to ask this buddy. I think we are well overdue an episode on 'detailing' or 'details' in general... We just need to find a way to frame it that works :). Thanks!
I've been loving the video quality lately. These are some super insightful tips, I learned a lot about washing with the dry brushing guy haha but can't wait for the next one. Ps I was at a tournament last weekend and they had one your brush sets and that was the only prize I wanted hahah
Thanks buddy! We have been trying quite a lot of new stuff and have a bit of a different focus, glad it's gone down well :). We're aiming to bring the closest to in-person learning possible. Lovely to hear about the event, they obviously have good taste 😁
Love a good ink, with contrast now apparently being 'everything that's not normal paint' GW are making more ink and shade like ones each release, so some of these are probably closer to inks, than they are to original contrasts 😅
With regards to mentioning the contrast thickens. If not done any painting for a long period so they have all sat for quite a while, would it be worth just going through them all and putting in a drop of medium into each? or would you suggest a pot by pot case only?
Probably pot by pot dude, the less there is (and the more frequently they've been open/used) the more volatile, and potentially easily dehydrated and thickened they are. You could test a bunch of half used ones at once though, to be a bit more efficient.
A realy nice video, the mini ist also realy nice! The thing that let me realy smile... there is nothing new about it... ill invent these "style" of painting allready 15 years ago ;)
As someone who's NEVER painted before, and has just started their first army. Would you have any starting tips/recommendations on how to start this method on Orks? Specifically 'Goff' Orks. May be a silly question! Just wondering if a base coat of green or black would be better as skin = green, armor = black. Thanks!
Hey buddy, it depends on your overall plan, if you're using contrast like we did here you could start from a grey, and then contrast the black sections and green sections, tinting them in the direction you want. Any follow-up questions let me know in another comment, replies can get lost.
@@ArtisOpus Thank you. If we "gloss varnish", may we need a Matt Varnish to apply Highlights/Paint afterwards? (In other words, will the Contrast/Speed/Acrylic paint adhere to the Gloss Varnish?)
Like a clean blue? Is it had similar shading going on to this one I would have possibly done him turquoise, both shaded in the same way, would let you do the metallics in an old gold (desaturated), bet it'd look legit :)
I've used a lot of the tips that you've been sharing in addition with filtering and glazing with Vallejo Xpress (contrast equivalents) - and much of what I do ties in with this video. I may not drybrush/smudge a basecoat, but I'll always basecoat, then drybrush the highlight colours and go one stage higher before the thinned Xpress stage and panel lining. It's really helped develop my technique, speed, and finish of the miniatures, so I thank you for all the tips thus far. With Leviathan, I would be very interested in how one could use your slapchop+ approach to mass painting the incoming Tyranid swarm - including how to choose your flesh/chitin colours; and how it could also be adapted for blitzing through your Space Marines.
Im going to paint a terrasque soon, so a detailed series with little to no skips would be amazing with the leviathan. Because now I need to look around to different series to know how to do certain stuff. Love the video!
Hope your good mate I just bought a set of your dry brush’s they look really nice but lve just built and spayed my first terrain which is all mechanics and I watched your plasma one which was very good so thank u for that I was just wondering if u had any tips or could do a vid about bigger walk ways details and the legs it would b very appreciated thank u 👍👍
I'd approach them very similar to a lot of our metallics… maybe sped up a little. The imperial knights 'one metallic paint' one on the armiger is a great start. You can skip a load of steps as it's terrain. And it will still look great 👍 Cheers dude, hope it goes well!
I haven't painted much since 1992, but now have all my models in my space with me. What's now called slapchop is how I think everyone painted back in the 80's, so I understand the concepts. Something I'd like to see is how to how OSL interacts with metallics/NMM.
@@joel6376 idk either--especially considering there was no youtube or even internet that could spread technique widely. It could easily have been something that was happening in Andrew's local area though--once there were washes, it's kind of a natural progression that could have developed anywhere and been shared directly painter-to-painter.
There may not have been an internet but there were art teachers. This technique was developed by French artists a few centuries ago, they just had a different name for it...
@@carysage Yes, grisaille is an old technique and as such should have been in the hobby in a big way were it common. What we mostly had, particularly in the circles where slapchop has been coined is.. essentially coloring book paint each section in one color.
What I'd love to see is how you would take one of the entry sets that GW sell and see how good looking you can get them as quickly as possible. After all, that's what painting efficiently is for most of us right? Getting a good looking army in game asap. Apologies if this is something you've already done, I haven't investigated your channel too much, brilliant as it is.
Love these new Seraphon models. Do you have a good recipe for painting jade weapons and armour? I've always imagined lizardmen with lots of Jade and obsidian.
Honestly, this guy's weapon was the single piece I was the least happy with on this dude. I was pleased with his gems though, which went from lime green to jade, and the feathers - so I'll do some more experimentation, and see if I can come up with something. I don't think 'power sword' style would work, looks a little too SF
@@ArtisOpus I've seen some marble techniques using stretched put cotton bud to mask the darker veins and sprayed a lighter colour through an air brush over it. I dont have an air brush so never tried it but it might be a starting point for the Jade? Also agree that green power swords isn't the right look.
My IF yellow right now is IF contrast and the Reikland shade (as IF contrast is a flat paint, not a “contrast” paint). I’ve never thought about premixing those, I really should try that next. Thanks!
I really like to follow these drybrush centric paintingstyle. Do you have any tips on not making it as uniform looking? I feel like the overall texture of the skin, though very clean, is a bit too clean and too uniform?
Stippling is a great way, you can also 'blotch' on contrast patterns, etc, to bring some random patterns, googling sharks and lizards is a great resource for this, as it's a bit of a worrying thought :)
As I have been putting off tackling a Lord of Change model, effectively using an advanced "slap chop" method with inks like you did in this video, I for one am very excited for that feather video you mentioned!
These techniques look great on textured minis like dinos, but I would be curious to see how you approach smooth, white armor with freehand markings like Captain Rex in Star Wars Shatterpoint or Legion. Would you even consider Slap Chop with Clones? Would you go grim and dark or would you keep it clean and bright? Do you add scratches and scrapes or do you stipple on wear and tear? Really appreciate your take on these techniques!
Definitely a bit more of a challenge, but also doable (especially certain chapters!). I need to refresh myself on some previous power armour strategies, and resist white scars 😁
I think the eye slit you painted could have faced a bit further to the right, but at this level of detail and precision the result is more than good enough.
I don't disagree dude, I just know from experience 'good enough' is the step before I then ruin it, so in a rare display of discipline I stopped there 😅
I’d love to see a video dedicated to your palettes. And what I mean is I’d like to see a video dedicated to them from brand new to continued use through projects. Can you safely strip paint from them and continue using them after a ton of paint and primer has built up or is it that once it’s smooth it’s trash? How do the other designs compare to the one you use in all your videos? I’ve started to buy one a few times and there’s a couple designs that look really cool but they don’t look as textured as the one you always use. And there’s probably a ton of other questions I could/should be interested but I’m a complete noob so🤷♂️🤦♂️😂
I really like how both the models look on their own but combined I feel like their colors are too same-y... Great video on slapchop though. I'm not that into it(or any speed painting for that matter) because even when someone as good as you is doing it up close you can still easily see the stipling and drybrushing "marks". But I still took some good tips from the video and it was really soothing to watch. You really are the Bob Ross of mini painting :-)
Thanks buddy, no finer priase! You can always slow down on the drybrush, or not go all the way to white, and highlight yourself manually :) use it as a foundation, not the main event (our dragon Bust is a good example)
I will add, don't worry if you go outside the lines. Don't make a habit of it, but take a brush that is clean and dry and soak up the paint that got away from you. Then wipe the brush on a paper towel to get off the paint you just picked up and repeat. Then rinse the brush and shake odd excess water and sweep over the unwanted paint. Cleans right off since it's thinner paint.
Agree entirely, it absolutely doesn't matter too much, especially after a few 'fixy' washes to hide it :). Natural variation helps so much with this, too!
I'd love to see a video on how to do this kind of efficient painting in batches. A lot of the times confusion arises with, 'oh, what colors did I mix to achieve that, and in what ratio?' If I need 5 of these riders, it'd be nice to see an example of some kind of 'slapchop assembly line..'
Great suggestion! I genuinely don't worry about this stuff when batching, if you think about non opaque techniques, and how many stages are involved, even a major discrepancy often goes unnoticed, also natural variation is a thing. Especially skin or clothing or armour etc. It's absolutely worth showing in a full tutorial, maybe a complete one on Batch Painting do's and don'ts. Really good idea. Thanks! Now to find a model I want to paint 5times in turquoise....
:D! Baby steps get you there surprisingly quick dude, keep practicing! Controlling how much paint is on your brush makes a huge difference, most of the time if I have painted an eye...90% of the time has been spent removing paint from the brush onto my thumb, give it a go!
It's the small tips (that are sometimes unrelated to your primary topic) which appear in your videos that can be the biggest time savers. Red dots on old brushes, for example, or taking the time to create a small batch of a test colour before scaling it up. Ever consider a Byron's Top Tips Google doc that you can add to over time and include a link in every video? Excellent guide though, inspiring stuff!
Like it! Are actually trying to add to our linkable small tips over time (many of them being small sections of previous videos), and would love to able to bring them up as cards more often. Our short about controlling washes as edge highlights is a good example. The painting terms/dictionary are being worked on too, but that's a private google-doc. Until we're happy enough with it, which may take some time!
Very excited to watch this through fully to schnazz up my Landsknecht Ogre! Do you have any tips for drybrushing with pro acryl paints? I find using the hydration pad makes the paint way to wet, is the paint wet enough you dont have to worry about the hydration pad?
Buy the Brushes used in this video: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing How would you adapt or apply these tchniques, do you have any questions, or suggestions for follow-up content? As ever the best suggestion will win a Brush Set and Texture Palette of your choosing!
@@ArtisOpus they’re probably the nicest models I’ve ever made, with some really nice options to pick from. I made a couple with the standard heads and one with the crocodilian head and they look amazing. I’ve only primed them so far as not sure which scheme to go for, but I can see me buying another box already
can you explain the purpose of the different washes and mediums you use? I've airbrushed for a long time but am at a complete loss when it comes to this technique. cheers
Washes: Shades? They're a semi-transparent slightly thicker wash that does shading for you, quite soft and forgiving. The mediums I add in further aid transparency, while keeping the unique properties above :)
I really don't know what I'm doing wrong with my drybrushing portion of slapchop. I've been practicing (and I know that part is definitely key), but so much of my dry brushing looks so splotchy compared to what i've seen other folks do. I've been using one of the dampening pads and trying to emulate things I've seen on these videos. Maybe I'm just too heavy handed?
You could be buddy, you want your brush 'not dry', rather than wet, you could have too much water. The main issue is too much paint, put less on, take less of, it makes a huge difference, test on the texture-palette first, then you shouldn't het surprises when you go to your mini :). Any more questions let us know in another comment (replies can get lost!). Let us know what size brush and paint brands you're using, it can be useful.
I was definitely being too heavy handed but I just got a texture thing from Artis Opus and was blown away with the difference it makes- takes paint off more evenly and I can build up layers way better
Excellent results. It's paced and focused the way I like to paint, but it's not really SlapChop+20%, is it? SlapChop typically takes about 4 minutes per model.
In general, I find your videos informative. However, can you explain why you chose black primer versus gray, why you chose to undercoat it with brown? Skill is clearly needed to understand the choice of colors here. Thank you
Great question! Primer: chaos black is satin, and drybrushing works well over it because it doesn't absorb paint like matte primers (which encourage chalky finish drybrushing). That's behaviour I wanted, but not the colour. So I then painted it brown. Again with a satin (GW) paint, for behaviour reasons. Hope that helped!
With all the tinting going on its probably time to step outside hobby brands to artist quality products like daler rowney or liquitex inks who are considerate enough to list opaque/semi/transparent on each product. Avoiding problems encountered on the riders leg initially.
What would be best white paint for dry brushing now. All my old ones have gone bad and I need a new one. I have no brand loyalty. I know a satin paint is ideal
Bloody mud then? Dinner was just served! 😂 great vid! Needing all the inspiration I can get when it comes to finding better ways to paint. Not all of which is picking up more acrylic heroin from my flgs 😅
Hi Pack, it's our Dampening Pad, I use it to release a small amount of moisture into my brush, it keeps my drybrushing smooth and high-quality. They're part of our sets (the little bamboo pot), and can be bought separately: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing Here's some links of ours to help Ultimate Drybrush Tutorial: th-cam.com/video/kxuY2NXeI2M/w-d-xo.html Flawless Blends Hacked (Dampening Pad Explained): th-cam.com/video/MnUWwq3Qtco/w-d-xo.html Any more questions just let us know in another comment, not a reply, they get lost easily :)
tbh I'm really struggling extracting the differences to regular slapchop. Is it basically the use of additional washes and adding shading before applying contrast paint? Also I think the headline is missleading, it sure looks like it takes some skill and more than 20% plustime. Im not saying its bad, but looks completely different to slapchop.
You have half of it, the higher quality drybrush pre, which I would say is quite forgiving (you're covering it, so it doesn't have to be mega-precise, just don't rush). The post-contrast step is quick work with repetition of translucent washes, which again I would say is forgiving, you end where you want it the darkest, and a few passes over the mini adds quite a lot in a handful of minutes. I get where you're coming from, it is some more work, but the pre is just the same steps as original slapchop (swapping black base for [other]) slightly slower, so barely adds much, and the washes step is as much as you want. You could speed up the washes by using one 'thick' one all over for speed also, it'd go very quick, for only a small drop in control.
@@ArtisOpus Thanks so much for that detailled answer! Another thingI didn't understand: You said with slapchop the orientation of the brush has to stay the same and you have to paint in lines? Never heard that before. And at 10:36, what did you mix reikland fleshshade with? The mix from the previous coat?
Hey buddy, it's here, thanks for checking! This is the redesign which I now use as preference, love the increased working space and traditional palette room at th edges. store.artis-opus.com/products/xxl-texture-palette-a3-brand-new-product-design
@@ArtisOpus Thanks. But this looks really flat to me. Basically a flat MDF sheet with maybe 0.5mm deep design. I need a texture palette to test the brush strokes, to understand if I need to wipe more paint off or not. This is barely textured, at least it seems so on the photos. The palette in the videos looked more textured with visible bumps. Is it just old paint buildup?
Cheers man, this one is (genuinely, I've taught beginners) a matter of repetition, we're using semi-transparent washes, so it's quite hard to make big opaque mistakes. Give it a go, trust me, you will surprise yourself if you follow the steps (let the mini paint itself, we're just 'helping') :).
I love how you talk to your viewers like a meditation coach - and the music really ties it together. Keep it up!
:) the only problem is when people fall asleep at the painting desk!
The best in the business. No one makes the process clearer. Thanks for improving my painting 10 fold.
Genuinely my pleasure, what kind words 😊.
As a new painter I just want to take a second to say thank you for this helpful video!
Our pleasure, my dude!
If you ever release your own paint range "Crazy Nuts Bright Yellow" needs to be a colour.
😅😅 don't tempt me, Frodo!
perfect for highlights over "Goobertown Outrageous Orange"
I like how you explain techniques. It really helps
I love that you own your mistakes, also this is such a soothing video to watch, great background music/ambience as well.
Really glad you liked it dude! We have been testing a few things and I think this one hit a nice groove, always open to suggestions and feedback!
Another cracking video! 😁
A video on batch painting would be awesome and your approaches to painting many (MANY) models but maintaining the fluid/organic approach you showcase so well 👍🏻
The thing that makes your videos so accessible is that you totally embrace that we're all human and make mistakes when experimenting. Very refreshing!
Shows what is possible with carefully selected additions without overdoing it. I tend to make painting a mini overly complicated and forget that a) going up a level can be done any time later - and especially b) it is not necessary to go all the levels at once.
Difficult right man, I think painting armies helps this, because you get punished if you put in too many steps :D
@@ArtisOpus Yeah, painting armies can also be rewarding, as the progress is much more visible. Because 5-10ish finished minis on painted(!) bases will look good anyway* it is easier to get to a point where you are satisfied enough to stop at a certain stage. I started keeping my work-in-progress minis next to their completed fellows and that helped coming to that point.
*at least most of the time.
Epic video, as usual. There's something magic about the way Byron tackles a mini and explains it so even goons like me can understand and apply the techniques. Astonishingly good content!
Thanks so much dude, super-kind words, glad you enjoyed it!
Just want to compliment on a great video 🙂
This is really the best "Slapchop +" or "How to grow as a painter after slapchop" out there . This could also be the real "Slapchop 2.0".
My dude 🥰 high praise, thank you so much! We have some more stuff planned for the future which is basically half way between this and other techniques, it should add another level of options :).
Thanks for your kind words!
Thank you, lord Byron your videos and Dry brush set have taken me from nervous painting to now having people look at my models and they don't understand how I have painted the model like I'm some sort of paint wizard.
My dude, our absolute pleasure! We'll keep making tutorials if you keep painting ;)
Love all your videos, my painting has improved considerably since I've been following your tutorials.
One thing I could suggest that I think would push this model to the next level is some fluorescent paint on the gems & feathers, perhaps dotting with a white reflection on gems. Plus a lush base bursting with ferns and flowers.
I absolutely agree buddy, we stuck to slapchop but they definitely lack a little saturation and depth (apart from a couple that worked nicely like the one on his chin jewellery :D
Thanks for your kind words, too, love to hear it, our pleasure!
I'd love to see a video on how you'd approach doing natural patterns and markings on a model, things like stripes, spots and other things to help give creatures a more organic/natural feel. Amazing content as always!
We definitely need to do this (and I need to practise!). Great suggestion, thanks 🙏
Absolutely! Natural markings/camouflage/patterns are a real sticking point for me...
Great video and thank you for doing this!
I have been painting for years but you can always keep learning and I picked up a few things that I may have known but have forgotten or never knew! Thanks again!
Dude I love your channel. I am also a big fan of drybrushing instead of edge highlighting, and your style meshes very well with mine. I am picking up great tips from you, thank you.
Our pleasure, my man! We have an interesting one coming for you, both on how to and how not to edge-highlight, keep your eyes peeled for the blood angels backpack :).
Thanks for your kind words!
Loving your videos so useful full of info for someone getting back into the hobby and realising how painting moved since i was last in the hobby. Ill be watching alot more to get those painting tips for when i start painting my models
I’ve been trying to follow along with your techniques for a few of my recent models, to various levels of success….
But I do have a request/suggestion; I primarily paint my minis for DnD/ board games, so all my models come pre-assembled (maybe 1 piece off if it’s a larger model)…. Could you demonstrate how you’d incorporate your drybrush techniques (or really any techniques that aren’t “shove your brush in and hope it comes out) on a model that you cannot get clear access to some of the undersides? (In particular, I’m currently working on a demon with his wings wrapped around his body, but far enough that you can see, but not get in to control)
For some reason watching this video im getting a Mayan feel. Awesome job
I will 100% take that! Cheers buddy :)
Awesome video. Thanks!
Thanks, buddy!
This looks amazing, from the thumbnail. Can’t wait to see this.
Thanks buddy, we'll see you there! :) 🦖🦖
Absolutely stunning result 😮
Thanks, my man :)
As always amazing work
Cheers, dude!
The series D brushes JUST came in today for me! So I cannot wait!!!
You, Sir, are going to have plenty of fun! Thanks for your support, enjoy!
@@ArtisOpus so excited!!! With Shatterpoints release I have tons of characters, terrain and more too! Not to account for over 100 unpainted Orks from AoS 😂
Your videos, brushes, everything *chefs kiss*
@@lordcuddlebear Thanks! You'll be slaying the grey in no time man! I was meant to get some early shatterpoint but something got lost in translation. So not sure if it will feature on the channel. I like the terrain a lot :)
@@ArtisOpus that’s unfortunate! I can’t wait to use your videos as lessons. Just watched like 8 of them last night! Hopefully you get to get some pieces/something if even for personal use in some degree!
Some interesting concepts here. I really like to put all my effort into my models but I decided when I start tyranids in 10th I was going to do most of them slap chop. This seems like a happy medium.
Absolutely man! I can really recommend our '10 rules' video we referenced here, the concepts aren't just or single minis, it's helpful for any minis, just got to hold your goal in mind (e.g. finishing an army/force).
My big thing is knowing my future (bored) self, even if I am enjoying it now, if things take too long I might not be later 😅
Really great video. I really liked how the multi-colored features came out. Blending colors like that are on my wish list.
Go for it! You might well surprise yourself, it is *a lot* more forgiving than you'd think :)
I am glad to see the wash applied to the Contrast. I've found that to be quite effective in my own work with Speed Paint 2.0.
Absolutely man, it's a small addition, but makes all the difference!
I'm glad I'm not the only one who also mixes washes into my contrast paint 😆
Good man! I love it, absolute secret weapon for speed :).
What's your avatar picture from by the way?
@@ArtisOpus It's from Pink Floyd 'The Wall', phenomenal album ✌🏻
@@kerr_b couldn't place it, thanks, would have bugged me for hours 😅
Can’t wait for this! I have 6 Aggradons and the Scar Veteran on order!
Worth the wait, my man! The models are a blast, too :)
This video came out at the perfect time, as I’m about to start repainting a model that I was disappointed in the initial first attempt (which I did not implement some slapchop in but now will be, for the extra textured parts)
Perfect! Some minis are just made for it :)
My group has started playing in the johad and dark age lately. Everyone is having fun with it
I have a few things I wanted to talk about.
1.) maybe it was just me (most likely me) but could you to over why you used the washes on pieces like the gems, weapons, and armor?
2.) your videos are just so peaceful to sit back and watch. You are like the miniature painter version of Bob Ross :)
Hey cody, good question - I only did here because I was holding to 'slapchop' style, I would have based them a really bright colour before washing at least if I was doing this for myself :).
Thanks, I will absolutely take Bob Ross, any time!
very nice dino! look fiercesome. I see you mixing paint and I sometimes have some trouble. all acrylics of course, but 1rst I thought it was because I mix some diff. brands but even if i do the same brand , the mix is not going as well as I wanted, vallejo or army painter... is it because I mix , for army painter `MID` (Leather brown) and `HIGH` (matt white) ?
It shouldn't matter, as long as they are high quality brands you shouldn't have any problems :). I don't have issues with the brands I use.
Some brands are matte and some are satin (e.g. S75///GW), this can give things a different finish.
Cheers buddy!
Really good video as usual. Those small tweaks and additions makes a really big difference. A video with focus on smaller parts and different ways to tackle them would be a really good one.
You're not the first to ask this buddy. I think we are well overdue an episode on 'detailing' or 'details' in general... We just need to find a way to frame it that works :). Thanks!
I've been loving the video quality lately. These are some super insightful tips, I learned a lot about washing with the dry brushing guy haha but can't wait for the next one.
Ps I was at a tournament last weekend and they had one your brush sets and that was the only prize I wanted hahah
Thanks buddy! We have been trying quite a lot of new stuff and have a bit of a different focus, glad it's gone down well :). We're aiming to bring the closest to in-person learning possible.
Lovely to hear about the event, they obviously have good taste 😁
@@ArtisOpus I definitely get the in person vibe, 2 👍s!
Amazing tutorial.
Thanks, buddy!
Fw yellow and orange inks are my go to for those colours.
Love a good ink, with contrast now apparently being 'everything that's not normal paint' GW are making more ink and shade like ones each release, so some of these are probably closer to inks, than they are to original contrasts 😅
Loved it
Thanks, my dude 🥰
With regards to mentioning the contrast thickens. If not done any painting for a long period so they have all sat for quite a while, would it be worth just going through them all and putting in a drop of medium into each? or would you suggest a pot by pot case only?
Probably pot by pot dude, the less there is (and the more frequently they've been open/used) the more volatile, and potentially easily dehydrated and thickened they are.
You could test a bunch of half used ones at once though, to be a bit more efficient.
A realy nice video, the mini ist also realy nice!
The thing that let me realy smile... there is nothing new about it... ill invent these "style" of painting allready 15 years ago ;)
Thank you very very much.
Our pleasure, buddy!
As someone who's NEVER painted before, and has just started their first army. Would you have any starting tips/recommendations on how to start this method on Orks? Specifically 'Goff' Orks. May be a silly question! Just wondering if a base coat of green or black would be better as skin = green, armor = black. Thanks!
Hey buddy, it depends on your overall plan, if you're using contrast like we did here you could start from a grey, and then contrast the black sections and green sections, tinting them in the direction you want.
Any follow-up questions let me know in another comment, replies can get lost.
Love the sarus! Though the premiers hurt me a bit haha I was really excited to watch this like two days ago lol
:) hope we were worth the wait!
Your brush control man ❤
Those tyranids are gonna be great for slapchop using colour base vs the greyscale normal chop+ little extras like patterns to make them pop.
Absolutely, my man! I need to put a bit of time and thought into the markings thing, bet there's something magic out there
Amazing work
What Citadel paint are you using to dilute the colors at the 17:45 mark?
Wonderful video and education. Any thoughts on using an Enamel Panel Liner for the shadowing around the Scales?
Main thought: DO IT! Perfect compliment, you could gloss varnish pre if you wanted to make it run thinner/just recesses
@@ArtisOpus Thank you. If we "gloss varnish", may we need a Matt Varnish to apply Highlights/Paint afterwards? (In other words, will the Contrast/Speed/Acrylic paint adhere to the Gloss Varnish?)
Love thé vid. If thé Saurus would have been a bright Blue, what would have been thé best color for the mount?
Like a clean blue? Is it had similar shading going on to this one I would have possibly done him turquoise, both shaded in the same way, would let you do the metallics in an old gold (desaturated), bet it'd look legit :)
@@ArtisOpus Tnx man, I always struggle with matching painting schemes.
Great Video helped me a lot in just starting out so any help is awesome. Definitely should have put blood on it.
I've used a lot of the tips that you've been sharing in addition with filtering and glazing with Vallejo Xpress (contrast equivalents) - and much of what I do ties in with this video. I may not drybrush/smudge a basecoat, but I'll always basecoat, then drybrush the highlight colours and go one stage higher before the thinned Xpress stage and panel lining. It's really helped develop my technique, speed, and finish of the miniatures, so I thank you for all the tips thus far.
With Leviathan, I would be very interested in how one could use your slapchop+ approach to mass painting the incoming Tyranid swarm - including how to choose your flesh/chitin colours; and how it could also be adapted for blitzing through your Space Marines.
Im going to paint a terrasque soon, so a detailed series with little to no skips would be amazing with the leviathan. Because now I need to look around to different series to know how to do certain stuff. Love the video!
How do you clean your drybrushes in between colors? And how do you clean the drybrushes at the end of a painting session? With normal vrush soap?
Hope your good mate I just bought a set of your dry brush’s they look really nice but lve just built and spayed my first terrain which is all mechanics and I watched your plasma one which was very good so thank u for that I was just wondering if u had any tips or could do a vid about bigger walk ways details and the legs it would b very appreciated thank u 👍👍
I'd approach them very similar to a lot of our metallics… maybe sped up a little.
The imperial knights 'one metallic paint' one on the armiger is a great start. You can skip a load of steps as it's terrain. And it will still look great 👍
Cheers dude, hope it goes well!
Thank u very much really appreciate it 👍👍
this actually turned out amazing, i personally would be proud to use or have this paint job
Thanks buddy! The mini really helps, just great texture :)
@@ArtisOpus most welcome
Hi Byron. What did you use as a paint handle for the rider while it was still separated from the mount? It looked quite comfortable to hold.
To get underneath and help me keeping it at a single orientation, plus it didn't have a base and contrast can get fingered easily while drying!
Nice!!!
Thanks, buddy!
Thank you!!!!
I haven't painted much since 1992, but now have all my models in my space with me. What's now called slapchop is how I think everyone painted back in the 80's, so I understand the concepts. Something I'd like to see is how to how OSL interacts with metallics/NMM.
Everyone painted with a black and white underpainting and tinting? idk man.
@@joel6376 idk either--especially considering there was no youtube or even internet that could spread technique widely. It could easily have been something that was happening in Andrew's local area though--once there were washes, it's kind of a natural progression that could have developed anywhere and been shared directly painter-to-painter.
There may not have been an internet but there were art teachers. This technique was developed by French artists a few centuries ago, they just had a different name for it...
@@carysage Yes, grisaille is an old technique and as such should have been in the hobby in a big way were it common. What we mostly had, particularly in the circles where slapchop has been coined is.. essentially coloring book paint each section in one color.
What I'd love to see is how you would take one of the entry sets that GW sell and see how good looking you can get them as quickly as possible. After all, that's what painting efficiently is for most of us right? Getting a good looking army in game asap. Apologies if this is something you've already done, I haven't investigated your channel too much, brilliant as it is.
Love these new Seraphon models. Do you have a good recipe for painting jade weapons and armour? I've always imagined lizardmen with lots of Jade and obsidian.
Honestly, this guy's weapon was the single piece I was the least happy with on this dude.
I was pleased with his gems though, which went from lime green to jade, and the feathers - so I'll do some more experimentation, and see if I can come up with something.
I don't think 'power sword' style would work, looks a little too SF
@@ArtisOpus I've seen some marble techniques using stretched put cotton bud to mask the darker veins and sprayed a lighter colour through an air brush over it. I dont have an air brush so never tried it but it might be a starting point for the Jade?
Also agree that green power swords isn't the right look.
My IF yellow right now is IF contrast and the Reikland shade (as IF contrast is a flat paint, not a “contrast” paint). I’ve never thought about premixing those, I really should try that next. Thanks!
Absolutely buddy, if you get it right you can do a full pot for army production, well worth the initial time investment :)
I really like to follow these drybrush centric paintingstyle. Do you have any tips on not making it as uniform looking? I feel like the overall texture of the skin, though very clean, is a bit too clean and too uniform?
You can use stippling to introduce some random noise.
Stippling is a great way, you can also 'blotch' on contrast patterns, etc, to bring some random patterns, googling sharks and lizards is a great resource for this, as it's a bit of a worrying thought :)
Great video as per usual.
a question if you was to go blue for the skin what wash would you use?
Check our dragon Bust from last November! Turned out great :)
As I have been putting off tackling a Lord of Change model, effectively using an advanced "slap chop" method with inks like you did in this video, I for one am very excited for that feather video you mentioned!
It's already out! Check out that and our recent LOC blending one, should help loads, good luck! :)
These techniques look great on textured minis like dinos, but I would be curious to see how you approach smooth, white armor with freehand markings like Captain Rex in Star Wars Shatterpoint or Legion. Would you even consider Slap Chop with Clones? Would you go grim and dark or would you keep it clean and bright? Do you add scratches and scrapes or do you stipple on wear and tear? Really appreciate your take on these techniques!
I'd love to see a video on painting Space Marines with these techniques specifically
Definitely a bit more of a challenge, but also doable (especially certain chapters!). I need to refresh myself on some previous power armour strategies, and resist white scars 😁
@@ArtisOpus Do it! White armour is difficult, so seeing your take on 'slap chop' for it would be wonderful!
I think the eye slit you painted could have faced a bit further to the right, but at this level of detail and precision the result is more than good enough.
I don't disagree dude, I just know from experience 'good enough' is the step before I then ruin it, so in a rare display of discipline I stopped there 😅
@@ArtisOpus As the Simpson's family motto goes: "Stop while you're ahe-"
I’d love to see a video dedicated to your palettes. And what I mean is I’d like to see a video dedicated to them from brand new to continued use through projects. Can you safely strip paint from them and continue using them after a ton of paint and primer has built up or is it that once it’s smooth it’s trash? How do the other designs compare to the one you use in all your videos? I’ve started to buy one a few times and there’s a couple designs that look really cool but they don’t look as textured as the one you always use. And there’s probably a ton of other questions I could/should be interested but I’m a complete noob so🤷♂️🤦♂️😂
I really like how both the models look on their own but combined I feel like their colors are too same-y... Great video on slapchop though. I'm not that into it(or any speed painting for that matter) because even when someone as good as you is doing it up close you can still easily see the stipling and drybrushing "marks". But I still took some good tips from the video and it was really soothing to watch. You really are the Bob Ross of mini painting :-)
Thanks buddy, no finer priase!
You can always slow down on the drybrush, or not go all the way to white, and highlight yourself manually :) use it as a foundation, not the main event (our dragon Bust is a good example)
I will add, don't worry if you go outside the lines. Don't make a habit of it, but take a brush that is clean and dry and soak up the paint that got away from you. Then wipe the brush on a paper towel to get off the paint you just picked up and repeat. Then rinse the brush and shake odd excess water and sweep over the unwanted paint. Cleans right off since it's thinner paint.
Agree entirely, it absolutely doesn't matter too much, especially after a few 'fixy' washes to hide it :). Natural variation helps so much with this, too!
I'd love to see a video on how to do this kind of efficient painting in batches. A lot of the times confusion arises with, 'oh, what colors did I mix to achieve that, and in what ratio?' If I need 5 of these riders, it'd be nice to see an example of some kind of 'slapchop assembly line..'
Great suggestion! I genuinely don't worry about this stuff when batching, if you think about non opaque techniques, and how many stages are involved, even a major discrepancy often goes unnoticed, also natural variation is a thing. Especially skin or clothing or armour etc.
It's absolutely worth showing in a full tutorial, maybe a complete one on Batch Painting do's and don'ts.
Really good idea. Thanks!
Now to find a model I want to paint 5times in turquoise....
I do love how you paint an eye that is streets ahead of any eye that I have ever painted, and then call it "acceptable." 🤣
:D! Baby steps get you there surprisingly quick dude, keep practicing! Controlling how much paint is on your brush makes a huge difference, most of the time if I have painted an eye...90% of the time has been spent removing paint from the brush onto my thumb, give it a go!
It's the small tips (that are sometimes unrelated to your primary topic) which appear in your videos that can be the biggest time savers. Red dots on old brushes, for example, or taking the time to create a small batch of a test colour before scaling it up. Ever consider a Byron's Top Tips Google doc that you can add to over time and include a link in every video? Excellent guide though, inspiring stuff!
Like it! Are actually trying to add to our linkable small tips over time (many of them being small sections of previous videos), and would love to able to bring them up as cards more often. Our short about controlling washes as edge highlights is a good example.
The painting terms/dictionary are being worked on too, but that's a private google-doc. Until we're happy enough with it, which may take some time!
Very excited to watch this through fully to schnazz up my Landsknecht Ogre! Do you have any tips for drybrushing with pro acryl paints? I find using the hydration pad makes the paint way to wet, is the paint wet enough you dont have to worry about the hydration pad?
Can you do a Black Slapchop at some point for the likes of Black templar / Dark Angels Risen (HH) that keeps it dark but very subtle
Buy the Brushes used in this video: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing
How would you adapt or apply these tchniques, do you have any questions, or suggestions for follow-up content?
As ever the best suggestion will win a Brush Set and Texture Palette of your choosing!
What colour are you using for the base coat on this one? Apologies if I missed it in the video.
Word Bearers Red or Doombull Brown are both perfect :) whichever one you have.
it's almost like painting them is more fun than playing with them
The Seraphon? And more than playing against them 😔😅
Lots of wise sound bites…. You reminded me of Yoda … when you rush, always comes regret!
HAA! I'll take Bob Ross + Yoda comparisons in the same video!
Happy, we are :)
All right, just in time for a Blood Bowl Kroxigor :) Thanks
My pleasure! 👌👌
Would love to see you tackle the amazing new Kroxigor models Byron ❤
The more I see them the more I'm inclined to agree, Infernal Brush just posted a picture yesterday that might have tipped the balance :D
@@ArtisOpus they’re probably the nicest models I’ve ever made, with some really nice options to pick from. I made a couple with the standard heads and one with the crocodilian head and they look amazing. I’ve only primed them so far as not sure which scheme to go for, but I can see me buying another box already
Hope you see this - I LOVE your display cases - what model/brand are they? Are they a 3D print?
Great video! I'd like to see how would you approach painting a bigger than usual character like a primarch. :D
can you explain the purpose of the different washes and mediums you use? I've airbrushed for a long time but am at a complete loss when it comes to this technique.
cheers
Washes: Shades? They're a semi-transparent slightly thicker wash that does shading for you, quite soft and forgiving.
The mediums I add in further aid transparency, while keeping the unique properties above :)
where did you get your displays at? I been looking for something similar in the U.S.
We designed them :) you can still late pledge here: www.kickstarter.com/projects/artis-opus/cabinets
I really don't know what I'm doing wrong with my drybrushing portion of slapchop. I've been practicing (and I know that part is definitely key), but so much of my dry brushing looks so splotchy compared to what i've seen other folks do. I've been using one of the dampening pads and trying to emulate things I've seen on these videos. Maybe I'm just too heavy handed?
You could be buddy, you want your brush 'not dry', rather than wet, you could have too much water.
The main issue is too much paint, put less on, take less of, it makes a huge difference, test on the texture-palette first, then you shouldn't het surprises when you go to your mini :).
Any more questions let us know in another comment (replies can get lost!).
Let us know what size brush and paint brands you're using, it can be useful.
Are you drying with a paper towel? That's always made it look powdery for me.
I was definitely being too heavy handed but I just got a texture thing from Artis Opus and was blown away with the difference it makes- takes paint off more evenly and I can build up layers way better
Where did you buy the miniature plexy glass shelves good sir?
We designed them ;) www.kickstarter.com/projects/artis-opus/cabinets
Hey man, can you show us some cool TMM techniques and dry brushing metallics please
Oh Sir, you wait for the Chaos Lord on Demonic mount we've nearly done editing :D
@@ArtisOpus nice!! You have given me a lot of good techniques, always look forward to more
Excellent results. It's paced and focused the way I like to paint, but it's not really SlapChop+20%, is it? SlapChop typically takes about 4 minutes per model.
In general, I find your videos informative. However, can you explain why you chose black primer versus gray, why you chose to undercoat it with brown? Skill is clearly needed to understand the choice of colors here. Thank you
Great question! Primer: chaos black is satin, and drybrushing works well over it because it doesn't absorb paint like matte primers (which encourage chalky finish drybrushing).
That's behaviour I wanted, but not the colour. So I then painted it brown. Again with a satin (GW) paint, for behaviour reasons.
Hope that helped!
The results are great...just think you missed some good opportunities with some Aztec gold :)
With all the tinting going on its probably time to step outside hobby brands to artist quality products like daler rowney or liquitex inks who are considerate enough to list opaque/semi/transparent on each product. Avoiding problems encountered on the riders leg initially.
Absolutely, Oils are coming later this year hopefully, which I am looking forward to sharing :)
Would love to see what you could do with colour shift paints like the ones from Turbo Dork or Green Stuff
What would be best white paint for dry brushing now. All my old ones have gone bad and I need a new one. I have no brand loyalty. I know a satin paint is ideal
I am curious how if at all you would update in your approach to Nighthaunt models given the new resurgence of the slapchop method.
Of course you put the blood on it. Hungry boi😂 Feed your raptor!
😅😅 I am still in complete indecision, I think mud on feet is a definite yes, on jungle base. Too.
Bloody mud then? Dinner was just served! 😂 great vid! Needing all the inspiration I can get when it comes to finding better ways to paint. Not all of which is picking up more acrylic heroin from my flgs 😅
Hi, can u tell me what it is, a sponge in a jar and for what? I'm a newbie but i will learn. I have so much fun to paint miniatures.
Hi Pack, it's our Dampening Pad, I use it to release a small amount of moisture into my brush, it keeps my drybrushing smooth and high-quality.
They're part of our sets (the little bamboo pot), and can be bought separately:
store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing
Here's some links of ours to help
Ultimate Drybrush Tutorial:
th-cam.com/video/kxuY2NXeI2M/w-d-xo.html
Flawless Blends Hacked (Dampening Pad Explained):
th-cam.com/video/MnUWwq3Qtco/w-d-xo.html
Any more questions just let us know in another comment, not a reply, they get lost easily :)
tbh I'm really struggling extracting the differences to regular slapchop. Is it basically the use of additional washes and adding shading before applying contrast paint? Also I think the headline is missleading, it sure looks like it takes some skill and more than 20% plustime. Im not saying its bad, but looks completely different to slapchop.
You have half of it, the higher quality drybrush pre, which I would say is quite forgiving (you're covering it, so it doesn't have to be mega-precise, just don't rush).
The post-contrast step is quick work with repetition of translucent washes, which again I would say is forgiving, you end where you want it the darkest, and a few passes over the mini adds quite a lot in a handful of minutes.
I get where you're coming from, it is some more work, but the pre is just the same steps as original slapchop (swapping black base for [other]) slightly slower, so barely adds much, and the washes step is as much as you want.
You could speed up the washes by using one 'thick' one all over for speed also, it'd go very quick, for only a small drop in control.
@@ArtisOpus Thanks so much for that detailled answer! Another thingI didn't understand: You said with slapchop the orientation of the brush has to stay the same and you have to paint in lines? Never heard that before. And at 10:36, what did you mix reikland fleshshade with? The mix from the previous coat?
What is the texture palette that you use?
Couldn't find anything similar in the links
Hey buddy, it's here, thanks for checking! This is the redesign which I now use as preference, love the increased working space and traditional palette room at th edges. store.artis-opus.com/products/xxl-texture-palette-a3-brand-new-product-design
@@ArtisOpus Thanks. But this looks really flat to me. Basically a flat MDF sheet with maybe 0.5mm deep design. I need a texture palette to test the brush strokes, to understand if I need to wipe more paint off or not. This is barely textured, at least it seems so on the photos.
The palette in the videos looked more textured with visible bumps. Is it just old paint buildup?
"no skills needed"? I dunno about that, lol. Great video, though, thanks for letting us tag along.
Cheers man, this one is (genuinely, I've taught beginners) a matter of repetition, we're using semi-transparent washes, so it's quite hard to make big opaque mistakes.
Give it a go, trust me, you will surprise yourself if you follow the steps (let the mini paint itself, we're just 'helping') :).